After watching a ton of videos I found yours to be the simplest approach and used it. I have a miter saw and have used it for making frames around tables so the cutting part was easy. My casing looks awesome and my husband loves it too. Thanks for the video!
Nice job... Those of us who are not very experienced in trim have to be shown slowly just as you did ..... I’m a mechanic but I did install my attic ladder myself and I think I’m ready to install my attic ladder trim Thanks a bunch
Great video - going out to install mine right now! I don't have a power miter saw or a pneumatic nailer, dang it! Reference line, adjusting the fit, and gluing are things that would not have occurred to me (and it would show!). Thanks, Roy!
Roy, Thanks for the great video. I'm about to install pre-stained casing around a new pantry door. I noticed you are only nailing on the jamb side of the casing and not on the thicker side, into the studs. Any reason for that? I thought doing that would make the whole door assembly more sturdy. Thanks.
Great video Roy, I think I can try that now with confidence, but you only forgot to put on your safety glasses for a novice like me one may think its ok.
I maybe should have bought a different miter compound saw. I am cutting 6 inch trim, and the board cannot be cut standing up against the fence. So I will need to cut it as a miter for door casings at a 45. The problem is that I can only cut the wood at 45, not 46 or 47 as a miter, because my saw does not accomodate that, and again I can't stand the 6 inch board up and cut it. Can you speak to that? Thx.
Informative video, but you never say if you nail the outer thicker part of the trim. I assume that you do, and if so, do you use the same 1" nails, or something bigger? Thanks
+MisterKnitter Yes you need to nail the outsides as well. You can actually see the nail hole from where he did this at the end of the video (though he doesn't mention it). Typically you use something like 18ga 2" nails for that.
You’d be able to get away with 1&1/2” 18 guage brads for casing that is 5/8” at its thickest point. I nail the whole piece onto the door jamb first. Spacing the nails about a nailers length and then nail the back of the casing to the wall. This technique is good to use when you have one or two doors to trim.
One recommendation is that you probably dont need to draw the line all the way around the frame, probably just an inch long line at each end of each side since 2 points can determine a line, as long as the casing ends are on the line, the whole thing will be at the right position, it takes less effort to erase the line with a eraser later.
I build my door casing on the bench. let the glue cure over night and then you don't need to correct the fact the jambs are out of square. a cured miter is strong. you can bend the casing to follow your reveal and the miter wont break.
hi Roy.. n peeps ..great video . Can you please tell me what was the device called for lining the frame please that was in yr hand..many thanks as I need one.. and would I be Abel to pick one up at b&q store Cheer's.. Matty
Well just find out why my molding are shrinking(I have like a 1/32 space with not even a year after the installation)....there is no glue in the 45 angle joint!!!
+N Holt What Richie said. Paint first and there's no need to tape the wall. You will only need small touch ups after installation. Clean up is easier then too. :)
i had a question for anyone who could help me. i'm trying to do this for a the frame of a large walk in closet and even with a miter saw the angles still aren't lining up what so how should i cut it to make it fit?
just find the proper angle, if at 45 grades you get a gap of 1/8 for example in the inside corner. Cut 1/8 on the exterior corner. Could be 44 grades and dont cut the interior corner. Just look the gap and cut little bit where need it to close up. Sorry for my explanation.
he explained that at 2:30 if the corner isnt square. also, your wall has to be flush with the door casing, and if its not, you either have to sand the wall or put a shim behind the trim pieces.
After watching a ton of videos I found yours to be the simplest approach and used it. I have a miter saw and have used it for making frames around tables so the cutting part was easy. My casing looks awesome and my husband loves it too. Thanks for the video!
Nice job... Those of us who are not very experienced in trim have to be shown slowly just as you did ..... I’m a mechanic but I did install my attic ladder myself and I think I’m ready to install my attic ladder trim
Thanks a bunch
This will be a first door casing for me and your video makes it easy to understand what to do. Thank you..actually looking forward to doing this.
Best door install video hands down
love this Roy I did this today using your scribe technique and it worked really really well - thanks so much
You are pro man, it is a neat, clean, beautiful job.
Simple, to the point, approach. Thanks for the video.
Great video, Roy. What type of saw blade are you using? Thanks.
I've watched a lot of these .. This was really great, thank you!
Great tips. I like the mark and cut technique. I think I'm ready to do this.
Great video. All the tricks i needed. Thanks
Great video - going out to install mine right now! I don't have a power miter saw or a pneumatic nailer, dang it! Reference line, adjusting the fit, and gluing are things that would not have occurred to me (and it would show!). Thanks, Roy!
Roy! Just what I needed - and fast!
you left out the nails on the thick side of the moulding. What size did you use?
Thanks Roy!! You make it look easy. I'll try it.
Why such a huge gap on top the door frame mine is flush all the way to the top.
Roy, Thanks for the great video. I'm about to install pre-stained casing around a new pantry door. I noticed you are only nailing on the jamb side of the casing and not on the thicker side, into the studs. Any reason for that? I thought doing that would make the whole door assembly more sturdy. Thanks.
Great video! It really saved me a lot of work and it came out perfect.
Redoing a room
Thank you for your help
Great video. Thanks!
لو سمحت البرور بيركب قبل الدهان ولا بعده؟؟
ايهما افضل؟؟
Great video Roy, I think I can try that now with confidence, but you only forgot to put on your safety glasses for a novice like me one may think its ok.
Pretty cool! How much do you think it would cost for a 1700 sq ft home?
Great video
Wouldn't that gap be cut at a 45 1/2 to get rid of that space?
Roy, does the casing style you used have a certain name? Or just a general "door casing" just so i know what to ask for... thanks
I maybe should have bought a different miter compound saw. I am cutting 6 inch trim, and the board cannot be cut standing up against the fence. So I will need to cut it as a miter for door casings at a 45. The problem is that I can only cut the wood at 45, not 46 or 47 as a miter, because my saw does not accomodate that, and again I can't stand the 6 inch board up and cut it. Can you speak to that? Thx.
Hi, I am just wondering if you cut it a little long. How would it fit for you to see where it needs to be properly cut. .Thanks
Good stuff Roy
This video was very helpful
Great video nice and simple awesome thank you
Informative video, but you never say if you nail the outer thicker part of the trim. I assume that you do, and if so, do you use the same 1" nails, or something bigger? Thanks
+MisterKnitter Yes you need to nail the outsides as well. You can actually see the nail hole from where he did this at the end of the video (though he doesn't mention it). Typically you use something like 18ga 2" nails for that.
You’d be able to get away with 1&1/2” 18 guage brads for casing that is 5/8” at its thickest point. I nail the whole piece onto the door jamb first. Spacing the nails about a nailers length and then nail the back of the casing to the wall. This technique is good to use when you have one or two doors to trim.
Perfect video lesson, thanks very much Roy
What size nails do you use on the nail gun ?
wow that scribe trick just is awesome!!! thanks
What is the pencil your useing
wow I am new a home modeling and I will try this thanks
Is 3/16" a general measurement for door casing? Thanks
Or 1/4
Thank you for making the video.
thanks a lot for the video it was great
what size brads are you using Roy??
One recommendation is that you probably dont need to draw the line all the way around the frame, probably just an inch long line at each end of each side since 2 points can determine a line, as long as the casing ends are on the line, the whole thing will be at the right position, it takes less effort to erase the line with a eraser later.
Huadong Feng cosina
Huadong Feng its better to draw the line..alot of times you get casting or moding with a bit of warping and this secures it being straightened
mSl TУТ МOЖНO НАKРYTИTЬ ЛAЙКИ, ПОДПИСЧИKОB PАCKPУTКA ГРYПП. ПEРЕXОДИTЕ В ПPOФИЛЬ, TАM CCЫЛKA HA CАЙT
I build my door casing on the bench. let the glue cure over night and then you don't need to correct the fact the jambs are out of square. a cured miter is strong. you can bend the casing to follow your reveal and the miter wont break.
Thanks for the video
nice job
hi Roy.. n peeps ..great video . Can you please tell me what was the device called for lining the frame please that was in yr hand..many thanks as I need one.. and would I be Abel to pick one up at b&q store Cheer's.. Matty
Matty Clarke I think he called it a scribe
its a compass
This is excellent
Good work
Thanks a lot was very helpful
I like this because I would use a level and go by the outside of the trim, but this shows me just to go by the reference line instead.
Thank Roy!!!
Thanks very helpful
Holy Bananas! No monkey'ing around. Your advice worked! Thanks a bunch!
you suppose to nail the verticals first than the top to get a nice tight fit
Thanks work Great !! Chuck
he mentions that he starts nailing at the reveal side and finishes on the stud side,if you look closely you can see the nail holes
Well just find out why my molding are shrinking(I have like a 1/32 space with not even a year after the installation)....there is no glue in the 45 angle joint!!!
Do you paint the casing first?
Paint twice, then touch ups after install. Spackle will fill the nail holes.
+N Holt What Richie said. Paint first and there's no need to tape the wall. You will only need small touch ups after installation. Clean up is easier then too. :)
good video bud
Thank you sir
Excusme sr whast the name of the tool that you use to trace the line
Compás.
Thanks for shear
no need for caulk with that good work!!
+mgt00656 with MDF the shrinkage as it dries out means if you don't caulk, it will show!
i had a question for anyone who could help me. i'm trying to do this for a the frame of a large walk in closet and even with a miter saw the angles still aren't lining up what so how should i cut it to make it fit?
just find the proper angle, if at 45 grades you get a gap of 1/8 for example in the inside corner. Cut 1/8 on the exterior corner. Could be 44 grades and dont cut the interior corner. Just look the gap and cut little bit where need it to close up. Sorry for my explanation.
he explained that at 2:30 if the corner isnt square. also, your wall has to be flush with the door casing, and if its not, you either have to sand the wall or put a shim behind the trim pieces.
Maybe your saw is not well align too...
great video. Allowed me to look see do it.
Where are your safety glasses
Nice tight joints.
gterat short clip. hanks Roy.
Gee my stuff never turns out that good. Cheap tools I guess.
I made it myself thanks to woodprix website.
This time I'll use woodprix instructions to make it by myself.
Go to WoodPrix page if you want to learn how to build it yourself
no need to glue. nails and caulk hold all. good techniques though....
Jeff Richardson u glue every joint u woodbutchers
Paul Robinson you don't glue to the wall you crapenter
i said u glue all joints not to the wall asshat
Ur stupid shutup
It's not even wood either
halooo
To slow
I’m
T