After much swearing and cussing I just built a Tichy Train Group flatcar. Don't follow the instructions to the letter and put the stirrups on LAST. I ended up breaking every one off trying to get the bronze/phosphorus wire grabs on--threw the plastic ones in the trash as it came with both. Got the car finished and added stirrups I made from staples and got her painted. I ended up painting each board on the deck a different color brown--mix the paint as I went along. After the last black wash (acrylic paint & alcohol) it came out great, not a single board the same color. When building kits I find that I end up spending as much time chasing parts across the floor as time spent building the model. Lol. I use communion cups for mixing up my paints. They're really small and I have a box full. If you wash them out you can reuse them. You should have painted each board on those flat cars a different color of brown and dry brushed some grey to make 'em look old. At least that's what I do. I've been painting models for at least 40 years. I'm now 73 and still play with trains. Got started in the early 80's. If you want a wood grain, use a hack saw blade or razor saw and scrape across with the wood and it will add wood grain but do it before you lay down the paint. I even add extra lines and scrapes with my A-proxo knife to the deck to mimic wear to the deck. I don't use an X-acto knife because I'm not exact, only approximate. I would never thought that yellow under brown would look that good. Thanks for the tip. I use women's eye make up as weathering powder which sticks much better than weathering powders. I also make my own rust powder from 0000 steel wool in a quart jar of vinegar. Put it in the window for a couple of weeks and wait for it to mostly dissolve and rust, then pour mixture into a flat pan (I use my old 14X11 stainless photo processing trays--a baking dish will also work) and wait for it to completely dry. Then I use a single edge razor blade to pulverize it into a powder and store it in little snuff tins. I used to dip so I have plenty. Then use it as you would any weathering powder. It looks real 'cause it is real rust. Cheers from an old modeler in eastern TN
It's an excellent technique and you explain it well. The result does look like wood -- especially with the Pan Pastels -- but it's the wrong sort of wood. Your decks look more like varnished mahogany, which is a bit expensive for railroad use. 😉 Weathered wood is primarily grey -- a fairly pale grey in dry areas, and a darker grey in wetter areas.
Looks good SR, add some black powder to the car Deck and in a couple of spots some darker black powder spots to look like dried oil spots makes them look a lot better, or you can add some liquid oil stain,s too , looks good my friend, I'll try that method to , good ,
Very interesting technique and great results, I will definitely give it a try. One question, during your summary you mentioned that you did a flat coat but didn't film it and you inferred it was right after the black stain but before the Pan Pastels. I've never used Pan Pastels but intend o order the same weathering selection from them--very impressive. Is there a reason you didn't do the flat coat after the pastels to seal everything in? Thanks, a great instructional video and I look forward to more!
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Nice job on the flat cars turning shiny plastic into realistic looking wood
A terrific technique...fast and effective. Looks realistic at any angle. Thank You 👍
Fantastic video! Simple technique, but very effective.
Watched all of your videos in one sitting and I enjoyed them all. Learned some new techniques, nicely done thank you
Great technique, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the great video! I’m going to use your technique to do my wood deck bulkhead flats. Thanks again, and keep up the great content.
Awesome layout my friend
Nice how to. They look great!
After much swearing and cussing I just built a Tichy Train Group flatcar. Don't follow the instructions to the letter and put the stirrups on LAST. I ended up breaking every one off trying to get the bronze/phosphorus wire grabs on--threw the plastic ones in the trash as it came with both. Got the car finished and added stirrups I made from staples and got her painted. I ended up painting each board on the deck a different color brown--mix the paint as I went along. After the last black wash (acrylic paint & alcohol) it came out great, not a single board the same color. When building kits I find that I end up spending as much time chasing parts across the floor as time spent building the model. Lol.
I use communion cups for mixing up my paints. They're really small and I have a box full. If you wash them out you can reuse them. You should have painted each board on those flat cars a different color of brown and dry brushed some grey to make 'em look old. At least that's what I do. I've been painting models for at least 40 years. I'm now 73 and still play with trains. Got started in the early 80's. If you want a wood grain, use a hack saw blade or razor saw and scrape across with the wood and it will add wood grain but do it before you lay down the paint. I even add extra lines and scrapes with my A-proxo knife to the deck to mimic wear to the deck. I don't use an X-acto knife because I'm not exact, only approximate.
I would never thought that yellow under brown would look that good. Thanks for the tip. I use women's eye make up as weathering powder which sticks much better than weathering powders. I also make my own rust powder from 0000 steel wool in a quart jar of vinegar. Put it in the window for a couple of weeks and wait for it to mostly dissolve and rust, then pour mixture into a flat pan (I use my old 14X11 stainless photo processing trays--a baking dish will also work) and wait for it to completely dry. Then I use a single edge razor blade to pulverize it into a powder and store it in little snuff tins. I used to dip so I have plenty. Then use it as you would any weathering powder. It looks real 'cause it is real rust.
Cheers from an old modeler in eastern TN
Great video. Thanks for posting.
👍 I really like the flat car deck technique!
It's an excellent technique and you explain it well. The result does look like wood -- especially with the Pan Pastels -- but it's the wrong sort of wood. Your decks look more like varnished mahogany, which is a bit expensive for railroad use. 😉 Weathered wood is primarily grey -- a fairly pale grey in dry areas, and a darker grey in wetter areas.
Nice job! You’ll have to show the roof top technique sometime.
Looks good SR, add some black powder to the car Deck and in a couple of spots some darker black powder spots to look like dried oil spots makes them look a lot better, or you can add some liquid oil stain,s too , looks good my friend, I'll try that method to , good ,
Oh and then add Dull coat after that even makes it looks better , keep up the good work SR,
Do more freight operations. Can you cover a video on that?
If you’re going to do the deck inside a boxcar, shouldn’t you do the interior of the car sides also?
Yes. Refer to prototype photos to determine what the interior is lined with (typically plywood) or some other material, and if painted or not.
The bunks on the bulkhead flat car could be done with same color as they get beat up too
Yes, but the bulkhead on the car in this video is steel, so it'll weather differently. Many cars do have wood-faced bulkheads, though.
Very interesting technique and great results, I will definitely give it a try. One question, during your summary you mentioned that you did a flat coat but didn't film it and you inferred it was right after the black stain but before the Pan Pastels. I've never used Pan Pastels but intend o order the same weathering selection from them--very impressive. Is there a reason you didn't do the flat coat after the pastels to seal everything in? Thanks, a great instructional video and I look forward to more!