A great video. explaining how to solve a dilemma that I had almost given up on how I should solve it. Thank you - I now know how to approach the problem and maybe I will do the job as you have shown to save the clock. thank you so much - your advice lives on.
A privilege to watch a master at work. Were he still with us I would ask how he can see well enough to do small work. I'm soon 77, eyes are limiting the kind of work I can do.
You're a pro, no doubt. 50 years of experience and we just sit back and comfortably watch. It is a rarity to follow someone at work who is as competent as you and be able to behold the correct way to do something. It's very rare. Thanks so much.
until I started to watch your vids, I did not appreciate the skill and knowledge that clock makers have you sir are a true craftsman and a pleasure to watch thank you
After seeing the clumsy ways that many so-called 'engineers' hold a 0-1 inch micrometer, may I congratulate you, sir, for holding it properly, single-handedly with your pinky through the yoke. The only way to do it and certainly 'old school'!
I did a similar repair on a longcase centre shaft. I just filed a scarf joint (half lap) and silver soldered a new section of steel to make the new tip. I don't really have a setup where I could do a centre-drilled hole in an arbour, so that was my solution. Once the repair was filed and smoothed, it was quite beautiful and durable.
Great Job.That is some kinda small work let me tell ya but you pulled it pff while shooting and narrating this video.Lesson learned as good as it can by watching.Thank again Mr.Ler
That is a very clever repair. It is an extremely fiddly job, but clocks are extremely fiddly contraptions; the consolation is that watches are worse. And I really like that female center you made for the tailstock and will copy it ASAP. Personally I prefer MAPP gas for any metalworking, and leave butane for ultra-small fiddles. But that's just me.
Could you please give us some guidance on how you determined the correct length to make the cut pivot wire do it fits the clock correctly . Thanks - amazing work
Wait a minute… I’m not a watchmaker and knows nothing about staking tools, but should you not have centred and lock up the staking tool and harbour pivot with the hole before hammering the stud out!?? Am I missing something!?
Thanks for another great video. Do you think the acetone cleaning process might be enhanced if, after completing the drilling and expelling all the grit, and wiping the drill bit with a cloth moistened with acetone that a few drops of acetone might be put on the drill bit and run one more time into the hole to clean the inside of the hole in prep for the tenon?
I'm always amazed with those small sizes. I'm quite good at working with small things, but this is way out of my league. Has anybody here actually imagined how AvE would handle what we've seen in the video?
+Greg Pack if I may answer for James, it is one of the weaker Loctite type of products, personally I would go for one of their "retainers", cheers from the UK where the best place to buy this sort of product is Arceurotrade, which stocks the Truloc brand. Just as good as Loctite for all practical purposes but cheaper.
+Greg Pack There was a bit of dicussion on Model Engineer Mag a few years ago. Basically "Loctite" is a brand name. Trademarked. You should not say "Loctite" in a video or article unless your intent is to endorse the company, who make excellent products BTW. The generic name is "cyanoacrylate glue" and it comes in 1001 forms. In the USA it is labeled "thread locker" but it comes in several strengths. I use Loctite myself, and if it's permanent I use "red" and if it isn't, "blue". I notice Model Engineer was trying to get its authors out of the practice of saying "loctite it in place."
Juan Rivero There is some confusion about the use of the name "loctite". In the UK "superglue/CA glue" are often called "Loctite" because they were the first to advertise the product. To an engineering minded person "Loctite" means one of the many variations of an anaerobic retainer, not CA glue. Despite the tradename problems, loctite will always be used to describe these products in the same way a vacuum cleaner is a Hoover or a ball point pen is a Biro. Inaccurate for sure but understandable.
James, Very nice close-up video of your work. I feel like I am right there next to you at the lathe. Did you make the three support fingers to your lathe steady rest? If so, do you also have other configurations depending upon the size and type work your are turning? Thank you for the video, Paul
It’s awesome watching real craftsmen work, thank you
A great video. explaining how to solve a dilemma that I had almost given up on how I should solve it. Thank you - I now know how to approach the problem and maybe I will do the job as you have shown to save the clock. thank you so much - your advice lives on.
A privilege to watch a master at work. Were he still with us I would ask how he can see well enough to do small work. I'm soon 77, eyes are limiting the kind of work I can do.
Fantastic job, thanks for showing us how it's done
Again I've learned something from you thank you very much for that and sharing
You're a pro, no doubt. 50 years of experience and we just sit back and comfortably watch. It is a rarity to follow someone at work who is as competent as you and be able to behold the correct way to do something. It's very rare. Thanks so much.
It is not late to learn. Great job. To be frank I would have messed up the job. Precision at its best.
Another well done job.
I am truly amazed at your skill. You are a first class machinist. Watching you is a pleasure and joy. Thank you...
Highly skilled work.
Great video. Your the perfect storm of a mechanic, machinist, clockmaker, & tinkerer.
Thank you for passing along your wealth of knowlwdge
until I started to watch your vids, I did not appreciate the skill and knowledge that clock makers have you sir are a true craftsman and a pleasure to watch thank you
+SteveD Thank you for the kind words Steve.
Geweldig!!!!! een hele mooie verantwoorde reparatie.
Thanks great much apricated for sharing
After seeing the clumsy ways that many so-called 'engineers' hold a 0-1 inch micrometer, may I congratulate you, sir, for holding it properly, single-handedly with your pinky through the yoke. The only way to do it and certainly 'old school'!
+Gordon Burns At eighty I am definitely "old School". That's the way I was taught in the fifties and it works for me. Thanks for watching, JL
I did a similar repair on a longcase centre shaft. I just filed a scarf joint (half lap) and silver soldered a new section of steel to make the new tip. I don't really have a setup where I could do a centre-drilled hole in an arbour, so that was my solution. Once the repair was filed and smoothed, it was quite beautiful and durable.
Nice work James. Appreciate the time it takes to show these processes.
Thanks again for a great video. I'm learning something new each week.
James, Thank you for sharing your skill and experiences. I thought that tiny steady- rest was the best!
You're amazing! Lovely video.
Well done James and thank you for a very informative and enjoyable video. Please keep them coming.
Many thanks for taking the time to share this.
very good way to fix the problem I love the videos
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us
Great Job.That is some kinda small work let me tell ya but you pulled it pff while shooting and narrating this video.Lesson learned as good as it can by watching.Thank again Mr.Ler
Many thanks a very informative video , and a great help .
That is a very clever repair. It is an extremely fiddly job, but clocks are extremely fiddly contraptions; the consolation is that watches are worse. And I really like that female center you made for the tailstock and will copy it ASAP. Personally I prefer MAPP gas for any metalworking, and leave butane for ultra-small fiddles. But that's just me.
great job thanks for the video
awesome video !
vilket fint och skickligt gjort arbete av en visar axel skulle vilja få några repade
cs
Sadly, James passed away in 2018. The Guy was a real craftsman. We will all miss you James.
Thanks James .. your work is great as usual is your spinal stenosis sorted I have it also. . Hope you are well as always love your workshop....
Could you please give us some guidance on how you determined the correct length to make the cut pivot wire do it fits the clock correctly . Thanks - amazing work
Wait a minute… I’m not a watchmaker and knows nothing about staking tools, but should you not have centred and lock up the staking tool and harbour pivot with the hole before hammering the stud out!?? Am I missing something!?
Thanks for another great video. Do you think the acetone cleaning process might be enhanced if, after completing the drilling and expelling all the grit, and wiping the drill bit with a cloth moistened with acetone that a few drops of acetone might be put on the drill bit and run one more time into the hole to clean the inside of the hole in prep for the tenon?
I'm always amazed with those small sizes. I'm quite good at working with small things, but this is way out of my league.
Has anybody here actually imagined how AvE would handle what we've seen in the video?
Taking long time. Pl try to be brief description.
Hi,
How did you remove the epoxy after the hole was drilled? Thanks
Warm it with a torch and it peals off. Thanks for watching. JL
Thanks again James, what exactly is "Thread Locker" not heard of it hear in UK.
+Greg Pack if I may answer for James, it is one of the weaker Loctite type of products, personally I would go for one of their "retainers", cheers from the UK where the best place to buy this sort of product is Arceurotrade, which stocks the Truloc brand. Just as good as Loctite for all practical purposes but cheaper.
+Little Work Shop of Horrors
Thats great, I know what to look for now.
Thanks for the reply.
Take care
Greg
+Greg Pack There was a bit of dicussion on Model Engineer Mag a few years ago. Basically "Loctite" is a brand name. Trademarked. You should not say "Loctite" in a video or article unless your intent is to endorse the company, who make excellent products BTW. The generic name is "cyanoacrylate glue" and it comes in 1001 forms. In the USA it is labeled "thread locker" but it comes in several strengths. I use Loctite myself, and if it's permanent I use "red" and if it isn't, "blue". I notice Model Engineer was trying to get its authors out of the practice of saying "loctite it in place."
+Juan Rivero
Thanks Juan, very informative.
This is a great area for my learning curve.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Greg
Juan Rivero There is some confusion about the use of the name "loctite". In the UK "superglue/CA glue" are often called "Loctite" because they were the first to advertise the product.
To an engineering minded person "Loctite" means one of the many variations of an anaerobic retainer, not CA glue.
Despite the tradename problems, loctite will always be used to describe these products in the same way a vacuum cleaner is a Hoover or a ball point pen is a Biro. Inaccurate for sure but understandable.
James,
Very nice close-up video of your work. I feel like I am right there next to you at the lathe. Did you make the three support fingers to your lathe steady rest? If so, do you also have other configurations depending upon the size and type work your are turning? Thank you for the video, Paul
Dear sir, I am pleased to have you in my contact.
Why would not solder parts, thread locker is enough?
TOOO COOOL !!
Did you quench harden the new shaft after cutting and drilling it?
+ExtantFrodo2 No need. There is very little strain or wear on that part. Thanks for watching, JL
im so sorry wrong person!!