Your video is fantastic and informative. No music is the key . That's actually what makes it Great . Showing an actual install without a bunch of background noise (music ) It teaches and great to follow . I'm retired and not that I think I could do an install but nice to follow the how to process of course. Thank you sir!
I'm a Millwright by trade and deal with a lot of bearing and gears. I've never changed gears in a rear end but I'm about to tackle this project on my Jk. Some things that I would have done is marked my bearing caps with a punch. I want them to go back on the same side along with the same vertical position. There's two bearings on the carrier that should have been changed. The metal chunks missing from your gears are most likely in those bearings. You didn't remove the outer races from the pinion bearings. You didn't change the driveshaft seals and it looks like you had a whole lotta gear oil in the axle when you removed it. This could have been the cause of failure because you were low on oil due to it leaking by the seals. I personally would have used a rubber mallet to seat the ring gear after tightening the bolts and then torquing those bolts after I hit it with the mallet. I would suggest putting the carrier in a vise and torquing before going back in the Jeep. I would think that torquing after you checked clearances would change some of your measurements. Maybe not by much, but it could seeing that you didn't seat the ring gear with a mallet and it could have pulled in a couple of thousands. These are just my observations from working with bearings/gears on pumps and gearboxes. I just feel like this video could be setting some individuals up for failure, but I've never done a rear end, so maybe I'm wrong.
This is all solid advice. Overall though, with the intent being to show people a way to do it at home, without having anything it was a good overview. Totally agree about new races and seals all around though. An overhaul kit SHOULD include all that stuff, especially for what Yukon is charging.
BY FAR, this is the best video ive found on the internet, thanks a lot guys, maybe a little bit more explanation on how to determine its a good fit while testing shims and tolerances but everything else amazing
But you haven't checked with pinion preload torque gauge which tells you are the pinion bearings proper torqued with locking nut while turning with gauge the pinion nut; too loose and the bearing cones will jumping and eat bearings again, too strong and bearings will be too hot. Then you check the preload together with crown gear with torque gauge are the crown gear bearings properly tight. Then you check back lash with gauge and then you put paint compound. When you check with preload gauge all bolts has to be tighten with recommended torque. When you check preload torque always rotate gears few times to let the cones in bearings sit properly on their surface and then measure preload torque.
@@vjekoslavcvetnic7500 i see. thanks! actually i would like to replace the ring and drive pinions in a mercedes vario and i'm looking for a mechanic who can do this properly in the balkans (romania).
@@wanekt.8712 in Croatia actualy, in Romania should be mechanics who can repleace cone gears properly, it is not that easy and not for every mechanic because it's delicate work. You should ask for specialized workshops such workshops who repar automatic gearboxes, they should give you informations, forget ordinary mechanics, they don't repair automatic gearboxes, nither drive cones.
@@wanekt.8712 , such precize repais with gears are doing certificized mechanics for automatic transmission repairs which has precize tolls and are trained for such repairs. Find such specialized automatic transmission workshop and bring them the axle from your Mercedes Vario. In Mercedes service they do not do such repairs, they will probably offer you fabric repaired complete axle and it will cost you.
Dammit! I wish I found this video a few weeks ago. My rig is in the shop now being done. Very nice vid!! Will try my hand at this on my next rig. ;) Keep up the great work!
Excelente video informativo e ilustrativo, era justo lo que esperaba para realizar el cambio de mis componentes en mi JK un fuerte abrazo desde Iquique-Chile
Nice job. For my final ring gear torque, I took a different approach. Took my rear shaft and attached it to the wheel pointing upwards, took my carrier and stuck it on the shaft. Manually engaged the locker and then torqued each bolt. For the front carrier, I just stuck it in a vice to hold it. Whatever method works best though!
@@fofolatru1 It took a while because I did it all in my driveway so I was at the mercy of the weather and sunlight. November in the pacific northwest did not give me a lot of appealing weather to do it all in to say the least.Shorter days too so trying to get home after work to do it did not give me much time. But everything in the Jeep is going good now. Nice to have that power and throttle response back.
@@rickyreyes4235 pretty good. made a substantial difference in power. and quite the learning experience, totally worth doing it. I threw an aussie locker upfront as well, but if you dont like clicking, especially in turns I wouldnt throw one in haha.. Just have patience when doing this job.
Thanks for making this video. Very informational on how to take apart a Dana44 JK gear box. A couple of questions: Did you check/change the pinion bearing races while you were doing this install? I also agree with the bearing preload comment, it's important to check that with a torque gauge.
If you’ve done enough diffs pretty much all have the same breakaway torque. You can feel this by hand. So as long as your depth and patterns are good it’s safe too say your good too go.
So, did you torque the ring gear bolts one day after you put thread locker on them? I think that by doing that you didn't give it the correct torque, don't you think? Also to remove the seal from the diff you used tools that could damage the lip of the diff where the seal sits, and thus cause oil leaks, when you could have removed the seal after the spur gear, apart from that I really liked the video and learned a lot of him, thanks for that
did I miss a step between where you removed the rear diff cover and you using the rotor to bang the axle out? you removed the brake caliper, reversed the rotor and bam, axle comes out... what was holding the axle in? c-clips in the rear end?
@@WarPigOffroad but at the end of the video you said no reason to do the front- leaving people to believe you drove it around with mis-matched gears. the video was a little helpful, but you missed quite a bit- not a complete diy video.
Few things I see so far , you say u do finial torque to ring gear bolts after its all installed, only problem with that I see is your thread locker has dried or almost completely dry and when u do final torque your breaking the thread locker loose and it no longer does its job , wrap it in few rags even b4 new bearings put in a vice and get the torque done b4 thread locker dries. Also wood block or brass to chase your shims and a dead blow to whip carrier in place. Also looks like you had little more than recommended back lash , wasnt quite turning the carrier enough, you can see the dial indicator move past 6 or 7 thou or whichever u said a couple times which makes me believe it had little extra back lash , you don't have to be so gentle with turning carrier you actually wanna hear it stop and turn it and hear it stop again , it won't move the pinion but there will b higher back lash # 👍 If I'm wrong about anything I've said please explain. Thanks
Great vid guys, a couple things tho..1- just an fyi it's very rare but some diff ring and pinions are timed maybe you can make a vid describing them , 2- did you pre lube bearings before final install? ,3- if you used the new crush sleeve you guys should go through the procedure on how to properly crush the sleeve and measure breakaway torque for your pinion preload. Other than that nice work guys .I love that diff cover too lol.ooh yeah I didn't see you guys changing pinion race lol.
I'm assuming he use the same shims that were in it from the factory. I wish they would have collaborated if it wasn't in spect what to do shim wise and it didn't show how to set the crush sleeve those are the most important things
Pinion nut is torqued 160-200 ft/lbs. pinion torque to rotate is 10-20 in/lbs on reused bearings and 20-40 in/lbs on new bearings. It’s the same front and rear. Total torque to rotate the assembly is the previous torques plus 7-11 in/lbs.
Definitely reused crush sleeve and pinion shin which is ok. I’ve done it on thousands of overhauls with no problems. I know a lot of techs say not to but it is ok. If u have to change the pinion depth then you have to use new crush sleeve for proper pinion preload.
So at the start you show they play on the drive shaft, how much play do you have on the drive shaft after install? I hear thump noise on mine, between gears, (manual trans) doesn't feel right
WarPig Off-road Is this plunger pulls the plate to the magnet to the right not the opposite side.That is why you Can removed only when you remove the case ,right.
so you didn't change the front at all? I thought if you did the back you have to do the front, if you plan on engaging the 4x4.... correct me if I'm wrong
i was thinking the same thing- he was supposed to do this video with what you have in a "common" garage- not many DIY garages have "spare" pinion bearings laying around- and he kind of glossed the whole shimming thing, AND didn't mention everything he did to get the axle out; he removed the brake caliper, reversed the rotor and bam, axle comes out... what was holding the axle in? video was a little helpful, but not complete. :/
Great video. Encourages me to do this myself on my 2008 JK. Just a couple questions....I presume if any of the measurements are off, Yukon instructions will tell you what shims to use to correct the errors. And I assume you already had 4.88 gears on the front? Without trying to show my stupidity, I assume they have to be the same in the front and the back. Thanks for your feedback.
I am actually about to do this to mine in the next few weeks. Going from stock 3.73s to some 4.56s :) To answer some of your questions: If your measurements are off, what you do is determine how much they are off by (say .004") and subtract that shim from one side of the carrier and add it to the other side. If your pinion depth is wrong, then you just change the shim behind the pinion bearing to correct it to the right depth. Yes, gears are identical both front and rear, otherwise you would have an issue where one set of tires spins faster than the other, causing a bunch of driveline issues and eventually breaking things.
I Like the vid. I just don't think I should do it myself. I don't have the shop or tools but I could buy them. I want to do this soo bad though but I want it done right. Guess I'll wait for a 4x4 club guy to help. A shop isn't going to clean everything the way I will but they will have the exp so I still think I'll have the shop do it. Dam.
Warpig great video! That being said... you and your cousin want to make some extra Christmas money? Video or not...I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do this. Same as you. Yukon 4.88 But mine are sitting in boxes. Lol
What year? What motor? What transmission? Why 4.88's? All would have been very informative. For the sponsor, Why Yukon? What is a complete set? What is included? Why should I buy it?
Very much so !!! Ive done gears back when i street raced mustang's but that was over 20 yrs ago so i was over thinking but i do that lmao. Appreciate ya
Your video is fantastic and informative. No music is the key . That's actually what makes it Great . Showing an actual install without a bunch of background noise (music )
It teaches and great to follow .
I'm retired and not that I think I could do an install but nice to follow the how to process of course. Thank you sir!
Ricardo Estrada thank you
But there is music and it is the exact opposite of what you would expect from a name like WarPig.
I'm a Millwright by trade and deal with a lot of bearing and gears. I've never changed gears in a rear end but I'm about to tackle this project on my Jk. Some things that I would have done is marked my bearing caps with a punch. I want them to go back on the same side along with the same vertical position. There's two bearings on the carrier that should have been changed. The metal chunks missing from your gears are most likely in those bearings. You didn't remove the outer races from the pinion bearings. You didn't change the driveshaft seals and it looks like you had a whole lotta gear oil in the axle when you removed it. This could have been the cause of failure because you were low on oil due to it leaking by the seals. I personally would have used a rubber mallet to seat the ring gear after tightening the bolts and then torquing those bolts after I hit it with the mallet. I would suggest putting the carrier in a vise and torquing before going back in the Jeep. I would think that torquing after you checked clearances would change some of your measurements. Maybe not by much, but it could seeing that you didn't seat the ring gear with a mallet and it could have pulled in a couple of thousands. These are just my observations from working with bearings/gears on pumps and gearboxes. I just feel like this video could be setting some individuals up for failure, but I've never done a rear end, so maybe I'm wrong.
This is all solid advice. Overall though, with the intent being to show people a way to do it at home, without having anything it was a good overview. Totally agree about new races and seals all around though. An overhaul kit SHOULD include all that stuff, especially for what Yukon is charging.
I like the breathing in the background. Helps me realize how heavy these parts can be.
those hole are there to run a bolt in so it can be pushed apart
BY FAR, this is the best video ive found on the internet, thanks a lot guys, maybe a little bit more explanation on how to determine its a good fit while testing shims and tolerances but everything else amazing
This is the best video you have seen on this? This is crap
Cousin Moose has a surprisingly gentle touch around that work area. Outstanding
How does one get cool ass neighbors like you guys? I'd so kick down a few cases of beer each for your help on my TJ. Thanks for the vid.
Hope your marked those bearing caps to know which way they went back on
Love the video!!! Just an FYI but I would put a tire under the Jeep for added safety.
And wear shoes.. lol
But you haven't checked with pinion preload torque gauge which tells you are the pinion bearings proper torqued with locking nut while turning with gauge the pinion nut; too loose and the bearing cones will jumping and eat bearings again, too strong and bearings will be too hot. Then you check the preload together with crown gear with torque gauge are the crown gear bearings properly tight. Then you check back lash with gauge and then you put paint compound. When you check with preload gauge all bolts has to be tighten with recommended torque. When you check preload torque always rotate gears few times to let the cones in bearings sit properly on their surface and then measure preload torque.
hey! are you a car mechanic? where are you located?
@@wanekt.8712 , in Europe, Balkan. I don't live of mechanic work.
@@vjekoslavcvetnic7500 i see. thanks! actually i would like to replace the ring and drive pinions in a mercedes vario and i'm looking for a mechanic who can do this properly in the balkans (romania).
@@wanekt.8712 in Croatia actualy, in Romania should be mechanics who can repleace cone gears properly, it is not that easy and not for every mechanic because it's delicate work. You should ask for specialized workshops such workshops who repar automatic gearboxes, they should give you informations, forget ordinary mechanics, they don't repair automatic gearboxes, nither drive cones.
@@wanekt.8712 , such precize repais with gears are doing certificized mechanics for automatic transmission repairs which has precize tolls and are trained for such repairs. Find such specialized automatic transmission workshop and bring them the axle from your Mercedes Vario. In Mercedes service they do not do such repairs, they will probably offer you fabric repaired complete axle and it will cost you.
welp i now have the confidence to do the install myself and save the money exactly what i was looking for!!!
Dammit! I wish I found this video a few weeks ago. My rig is in the shop now being done. Very nice vid!! Will try my hand at this on my next rig. ;) Keep up the great work!
Thank you for posting such a usable video. Takes all the mystery and guess work out of installing a gear set. very informative. Thank you!
My mans bare foot!! Awesome job guys nice video!!
Excelente video informativo e ilustrativo, era justo lo que esperaba para realizar el cambio de mis componentes en mi JK un fuerte abrazo desde Iquique-Chile
Hi wouldn’t you want to replace the pinion bearing RACES that were in the housing? Did I miss that step?
Nice job. For my final ring gear torque, I took a different approach. Took my rear shaft and attached it to the wheel pointing upwards, took my carrier and stuck it on the shaft. Manually engaged the locker and then torqued each bolt. For the front carrier, I just stuck it in a vice to hold it. Whatever method works best though!
Thanks for the good tutorial video. It was also a pretty big confidence booster for me doing this job.
How did it go and what kind of garage did you do it in? Thank you in advance
@@fofolatru1 It took a while because I did it all in my driveway so I was at the mercy of the weather and sunlight. November in the pacific northwest did not give me a lot of appealing weather to do it all in to say the least.Shorter days too so trying to get home after work to do it did not give me much time. But everything in the Jeep is going good now. Nice to have that power and throttle response back.
Honest question how is the Jeep running thinking of doing it myself
@@rickyreyes4235 pretty good. made a substantial difference in power. and quite the learning experience, totally worth doing it. I threw an aussie locker upfront as well, but if you dont like clicking, especially in turns I wouldnt throw one in haha.. Just have patience when doing this job.
Very well done install
Great video buddy boosted my confidence lol
My question is to you is your locker light turns on and off when you want to engage your lockers
Did you change the carrier bearings?
Thanks for making this video. Very informational on how to take apart a Dana44 JK gear box. A couple of questions: Did you check/change the pinion bearing races while you were doing this install? I also agree with the bearing preload comment, it's important to check that with a torque gauge.
If you’ve done enough diffs pretty much all have the same breakaway torque. You can feel this by hand. So as long as your depth and patterns are good it’s safe too say your good too go.
Did you swap the front gears to match ratio?
fantastic, who could dislike this? Geeze.. One thing could esplane the shims a little more but we get it.
So, did you torque the ring gear bolts one day after you put thread locker on them? I think that by doing that you didn't give it the correct torque, don't you think? Also to remove the seal from the diff you used tools that could damage the lip of the diff where the seal sits, and thus cause oil leaks, when you could have removed the seal after the spur gear, apart from that I really liked the video and learned a lot of him, thanks for that
Good video, about to do a gear change on our jeep.
did I miss a step between where you removed the rear diff cover and you using the rotor to bang the axle out? you removed the brake caliper, reversed the rotor and bam, axle comes out... what was holding the axle in? c-clips in the rear end?
So I can put a different gear ratio in the back and leave the front stock?? It will be great...
No the gears have to match. We did front and rear just did video process on rear
@@WarPigOffroad but at the end of the video you said no reason to do the front- leaving people to believe you drove it around with mis-matched gears. the video was a little helpful, but you missed quite a bit- not a complete diy video.
Love this video! What is the roof rack on the war pig?
So it’s possible with a weekend mechanic you guys think? Just got a quote for install only and pushing 2200 for labor.
Great video....question...was the gear ratio already 4.88....it obviously was or you would have had to do the front right ?
That’s a pretty cool rotor trick as long I guess as you don’t have drum brakes on an older model.
Would this procedure work for 97 TJ? I want to upgrade gears to compensate for 33" tires.
This is so incredibly helpful, thank you!!
Few things I see so far , you say u do finial torque to ring gear bolts after its all installed, only problem with that I see is your thread locker has dried or almost completely dry and when u do final torque your breaking the thread locker loose and it no longer does its job , wrap it in few rags even b4 new bearings put in a vice and get the torque done b4 thread locker dries. Also wood block or brass to chase your shims and a dead blow to whip carrier in place. Also looks like you had little more than recommended back lash , wasnt quite turning the carrier enough, you can see the dial indicator move past 6 or 7 thou or whichever u said a couple times which makes me believe it had little extra back lash , you don't have to be so gentle with turning carrier you actually wanna hear it stop and turn it and hear it stop again , it won't move the pinion but there will b higher back lash # 👍
If I'm wrong about anything I've said please explain. Thanks
Great vid guys, a couple things tho..1- just an fyi it's very rare but some diff ring and pinions are timed maybe you can make a vid describing them , 2- did you pre lube bearings before final install? ,3- if you used the new crush sleeve you guys should go through the procedure on how to properly crush the sleeve and measure breakaway torque for your pinion preload. Other than that nice work guys .I love that diff cover too lol.ooh yeah I didn't see you guys changing pinion race lol.
Hey guys anyone know the mixture for gear marking slime kicking a 07 titan diff and just like the rest of it I can't find marker stuff
Were the bearing cups replaced? I don't recall see that.
Great video. Very well detailed DIY.
Hiw did you get the old bearings off you never showed that.
Use a bearing separator on a press but they didn't need to since they were installing new gears.
I'm assuming he use the same shims that were in it from the factory. I wish they would have collaborated if it wasn't in spect what to do shim wise and it didn't show how to set the crush sleeve those are the most important things
Pinion nut is torqued 160-200 ft/lbs. pinion torque to rotate is 10-20 in/lbs on reused bearings and 20-40 in/lbs on new bearings. It’s the same front and rear. Total torque to rotate the assembly is the previous torques plus 7-11 in/lbs.
@@nickb7122 40 inch pounds is way too much and would kill bearings
Charlie Brown depends if it was done dry also.
Definitely reused crush sleeve and pinion shin which is ok. I’ve done it on thousands of overhauls with no problems. I know a lot of techs say not to but it is ok. If u have to change the pinion depth then you have to use new crush sleeve for proper pinion preload.
How do you like the 4:88’s?
remove the lower drain bolt first so the vacuum holds the oil in.
Good job at explaining everything
Great video! Thank you for the step by step.
In the vid I noticed a string hanging out while you were installing the pumpkin .was string attached to a block too hold the plunger out ?
mel plishka yes so when you put it all back you can just pull the string out to release the plunger
Why choose 4.88? What year, trans, and size tires are you running?
So at the start you show they play on the drive shaft, how much play do you have on the drive shaft after install? I hear thump noise on mine, between gears, (manual trans) doesn't feel right
Never gonna get an answer
Probably just u joint
Super video but i have question.What is the sensor you left inside on the top right side what this sensor do.
BLUE SKY BROTHERS it is the plunger for the locker
WarPig Off-road Is this plunger pulls the plate to the magnet to the right not the opposite side.That is why you Can removed only when you remove the case ,right.
What did you use to hold the locker switch open? I see the string hanging there, but it is hard to tell for certain what you have holding it.
Use a wooden dowel pin and string.
so you didn't change the front at all? I thought if you did the back you have to do the front, if you plan on engaging the 4x4.... correct me if I'm wrong
Tj Dooly yes if you do rear then you have to do front. In this video I just showed rear because it’s pretty much the same process.
@@WarPigOffroad Roger that, thanks mate
what do i do if i dont have extra bearings?
i was thinking the same thing- he was supposed to do this video with what you have in a "common" garage- not many DIY garages have "spare" pinion bearings laying around- and he kind of glossed the whole shimming thing, AND didn't mention everything he did to get the axle out; he removed the brake caliper, reversed the rotor and bam, axle comes out... what was holding the axle in? video was a little helpful, but not complete. :/
THAT wire! ...ugh....lol....... the video jumps right past tightening the bolt and then the next frame the wire is done. How does it come out/go in?
LOVE THE MUSCLE SHIRT WITH ZERO MUSCLE MASS....HELL YEAH MAN
You’re the type that judges how juicy a cock is too. Lol get a fucken life
@@vtecbanger3180 that is oddly specific
When you were using the rotor as a slide hammer the jeep was rocking. I was thinking "Is this his last video?"
that was scary as shit no lie lol
Amazing video great job..
muchas gracias.
What gears were in it before?
Thanks a bunch of the tip on freezer and over. Took two tries but the second time it went just like in your video.
Seal puller for seal great investment
how did you measure the pinion depth?
You can tell the pinion depth is ok by the pattern on the ring gear .
Great video. Encourages me to do this myself on my 2008 JK. Just a couple questions....I presume if any of the measurements are off, Yukon instructions will tell you what shims to use to correct the errors. And I assume you already had 4.88 gears on the front? Without trying to show my stupidity, I assume they have to be the same in the front and the back. Thanks for your feedback.
I am actually about to do this to mine in the next few weeks. Going from stock 3.73s to some 4.56s :)
To answer some of your questions: If your measurements are off, what you do is determine how much they are off by (say .004") and subtract that shim from one side of the carrier and add it to the other side. If your pinion depth is wrong, then you just change the shim behind the pinion bearing to correct it to the right depth. Yes, gears are identical both front and rear, otherwise you would have an issue where one set of tires spins faster than the other, causing a bunch of driveline issues and eventually breaking things.
I Like the vid. I just don't think I should do it myself. I don't have the shop or tools but I could buy them. I want to do this soo bad though but I want it done right. Guess I'll wait for a 4x4 club guy to help. A shop isn't going to clean everything the way I will but they will have the exp so I still think I'll have the shop do it. Dam.
U. Dudes pretty cool and helpful
Awesome! Thank you for this video. If all goes well, you will save me $700 in labor.
J.M. Molina how did it go?
How did it go
@@mrpw1402 legend has it he's 3k deeper in debt and his jeep is up on blocks in his front yard
John Holifield You’re telling me DIY re gearing your diff causes your axle to grenade itself? Who would’ve known
pinion drag spec?
Excellent Video
ThankYou
Learning a lot . Thanks .
How did you get them to sponsor you?
I don't think I could find a shop around me that would do it this way with the oven and everything LOL.
Holy crap 135ft lbs for ring gear bolts
And there's spider gears in a rear Rubicon locker ? 🤔
31:28, only 2' apart and texting each other 😂
You guys anywhere near Dallas Texas ?
Josh rodriguez no we are out in Kansas City, my brother lives out that way
WarPig Off-road man I really need help regearing ! I don’t know any reputable off-road shops in the east Texas area
Josh rodriguez I’ll ask my brother where he goes. He has a beast of a Jeep on 40s and uses a couple local shops in texas
WarPig Off-road thanks brotha let me know Gibson5056@gmail.com
Enjoyed the video ! \m/
Warpig great video! That being said... you and your cousin want to make some extra Christmas money? Video or not...I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do this. Same as you. Yukon 4.88 But mine are sitting in boxes. Lol
Hey guys I've been kicking a 07 titan diff around for a week does anyone know a mix for gear marking snot?
Endplay??😅
👍👌
That's not cousin Cole, that's cousin Moose. I've got one too!
💯
"War Pig..." I can't roll my eyes hard enough. #square
What year? What motor? What transmission? Why 4.88's? All would have been very informative. For the sponsor, Why Yukon? What is a complete set? What is included? Why should I buy it?
Well, there's one thing I'll never be doing ,,,
Be careful !! Don't kill the Mushroom.
War Pig !!! ABSOFUCKINGLUTELY GREAT VIDEO !!!!! INSTANT SUBSCRIBER..... THANKS
Craig Versetti thank you. Very much appreciated hope it helped
Very much so !!! Ive done gears back when i street raced mustang's but that was over 20 yrs ago so i was over thinking but i do that lmao. Appreciate ya
The gear went out because its a jeep.
Keep your clamps and shims on the same side they came off.
sawdust
Yukon gears suck a$$ …..I don’t even off road and I blew to sets in 8 months not a good product….pop metal garbage.
What height jack stands do you recommend? I have a 2005 Jeep Unlimited LJ on 35s and I'm not sure what height to buy.
Drew Stevens I have heavy duty 6 ton jack stands.
whats the ratio for DANA 44 i have 4.10 Thanks
The shims you use come whit the kit off yukon gear?