I really was turned off by the requirement that I scuff the plate. I bought this at MicroCenter and I'm holding off on possibly returning it...but you're not the first person I've seen who's NOT scuffed it despite the instructions. Mine also came WITH a burgundy 3M scuffing pad.
I just received my PEX plate on Saturday, now waiting for my BL X1C to arrive today. then the fun begins. I'm coming from an ender 3 s1 pro which glue stick and hair spray did not work for me. The only thing that worked was blue painters tape. Can wait to be done with that setup.
Painters tape is what I used a few years ago. Now it is usually PEI. I don't want glue stick or hairspray residue on my prints. Tape is by far the most reliable from what I remember from a few years ago but a pain to apply to the bed.
I use textured PEI plate and it does not require any glue to be honest, but mostly printing PLA+ and started PETG. I have never used on any of my prints 🤷♂️
I'm telling ya right now you do not need gluestick for the engineering plate with PETG. it is literally the perfect bed plate for PETG. no gluestick. Just clean with iso and it works better than anything else I've used
I’ve been using this too no glue and no issues. Only thing is if I’m printing on the very edge of plate 255mm I need glue (maybe since it’s the edge the bed isn’t as hot?)
I bought it, same happened to me, got tired of testing. New favorite: Lightyear G10 garolite plate. Wham Bam tells you to use Gluestick for PETG in all of their instructions, but G10 works without it for all materials. I regret paing $55 plus tax for the whambam, but I'm buying a second Lightyear plate now because its so good
Bambu recommends using a glue stick only to protect the build surface. I notice on the wham bam they have the same warning on their flex plate. I use the engineering and cool plate exclusively, i do have the pei plate, and have never had an issue after I used the glue once and then cleaned the plate with IPA.
@@futureethan I used some of the glue stick for a couple of prints and then gave the plate a good wash and honestly haven’t had any problems. Thank goodness the plate flexes because it does stick very well. I just love the smooth surface it gives to prints especially if you’re mating two pieces. Love your videos! They are very clear and well done.
GLUE IS NOT FOR GLUEING.... Many people seem to be misunderstanding why you should use a glue stick with PETG. It's NOT to make it stick! Actually, just the opposite. The glue stick is used as a releasing agent! PETG tends to stick TOO well. Glue stick is used because it is easy to apply a thin layer and this type of glue doesn't cure, so you can use it over and over and clean it up easy with just water. I've heard Windex can be a good releasing agent as well.
I completely concur that using glue stick to 3D print in 2023 is dumber than dirt. I've been printing TPU on a textured glass build plate for years and it's spoiled me. I pop off the part, peel off the skirt that was printed to prime the nozzle and I'm good to print another part. I print on a 75C glass bed for the first layer and the bed is unheated for the remainder of the print so there's not much wasted energy with a heated bed heating my office.
That is luxury. I wish all polymers were that easy. I have been searching for many years. I'll might make a short video about all my attempts to find the best bed. Glue stick is lame!
At 1.34 or so, you recommend not following the instructions about reparing the PEX build surface. I know you saw a lot of RUclips videos and they didn't follow the instructions either. Why not do what the instructions tell you to do regardless of how may RUclips videos you watch, or don't?
I am not entirely sure but the bed warping could be from it cooling off to quickly. So maybe to avoid this its would be better if it stayed in the printer and have it cool off more slowly.
You should have scuffed the plate and you should also scuff and clean it after every print. I never had an issue with PETG, ABS, ASA, or PLA. No Gcode is needed too.. That Gcode was used in the very beginning and is not necessary today ( it is an impressive Gcode but not needed). Highly recommend scuffing with 000 steel wool and cleaning with IPA after every print.
Glue Stick is cheap and easy to use, also water soluble. Best of all, it just works. I found that Textured PEI wasnt enough alone to keep my prints from coming un-stuck especially when printing at higher speeds on my BambuLabs printer, so I had to take to using glue stick despite everyone and their mom saying its unnecessary and doesnt help on PEI. Could be that my environment is too cold or that theres a lot of particulants in the air here, but glue stick has been a super cheap and easy fix. I dont even have to use it every print, just ever 3-4 prints, and it keeps my prints secured to the bed. It'd be nice to not need/rely on Glue Stick, but im not willing to spend and arm and a leg on build plates and testing when gluestick is so cheap and easy to solve the issue.
If you haven't yet, you should try the textured sheet by Thekkiinngg. I've been using it for the past few weeks, and not one failure. And it works with the lidar if you like using that. As far as using PETG it's always recommended to use glue stick as a release agent. When COVID first started I was using one of my PEX sheets to print face shields using PETG, it didn't look like it was damaging the plate at first, but over time it did start to scar up the PEX sheet. I'm like you, I hate using glue stick, but when printing with PETG I'll switch over to using the Bambu Labs Engineering plate with the glue stick.
@@futureethan it is very noticeable. I tried various filaments on mine today, ABS worked very well. I printed multiple 4hr plus prints using ABS and none of them warped, and once plate was fully cooled down they self released. ASA stuck a little hard though, I might stick to the glue stick and Bambu Engineering plate for now if I want to print with ASA. TPU also worked very well. I did not try PETG, I’ve ordered a second plate just so I can do quick swaps of the plates after a print is finished. Once I get the spare sheet I’ll give PETG a try. That way if it does damage the sheet I’ll have a second one ready to go. About a week ago the Thekkiinngg web site was down for some reason. My guess is they were out of stock. I think it’s just a one man operation out of Canada.
I also refuse to use gluestick (always have, I'll use blue painter's tape before I'd ever use that madness, I don't care) but one of the fabulous things I found with my X1C is never ever needing to on the 2-sided Textured and 2-sided smooth PEI plates.
Can you share your slicer screen shots please?wondering if the nozzle temp max was way up there and if the machine goes to this temp during higher speed prints?
Good video. I never used glue stick until i bought the X1C. I hate glue stick. Still do. Their liquid glue is better to use but id rather not. I'm going to try some of those changes you did, and look forward to the next plate! Thanks!
I appreciate it! Glue sick is terrible and I don't know how people accept that to be a good solution. I think the next option will be the winner for me. It is difficult to get but I think it will be worth it. Stay tuned!
Im no expert, mostly print in PLA on a textured PEI (bambu P1P and Prusa Mini).... But, i've read that first layer height for PETG should be a little higher than with PLA. I'm aure the default PETG swttings in the slicer should do this, but maybe try adjusting it a bit higher?
I did this because the wham bam recommended bed temps did not have a range. I could have done a lot more testing but this wasnt supposed to be a detail test. Thanks!
10:50 he does change bed temp if it doesn't work the first time. I guess it would be an interesting video to see the max and min temps. If it works it works though
I think not enough people liquid glue sticks. They work fine. Really easy to apply evenly. I need to go get some hairspray, it sounds like it works even better. For the cost...I love the cool plate. I'd like a wham Bam pex plate, but it's kind of pricey if I'm going to end up buying more than 1. I might get 1 anyway. Already got a G10 garolite plate which is nice. But only because nylon was giving me issues with sticking.
I just looked at the bed and tried cleaning it off. The part which made the mark on the bed definitely pulled up some of the bed. It isnt much but it is just enough to leave a mark on the bottom of future prints. So I would say the bed is damaged.
@@futureethan I had the same defect in my plate after the model came off, but it disappeared after using the plate a few more times. Maybe the heat healed it.
I got to say. I hate glue stick but Bambu is also selling a liquid and as you (should) wipe down the bed anyway on regular basis, using the glue liquid is much much better.
I tried G10 after watching Maker's Muse video, have you ever tried G10 with the X1C? I currently use it on my budget printer, but am concerned about how to apply the sheet to a bambu printer I think it could be very interesting if you were able to custom cut out a sheet of G10 and fit it in
I have thought about doing this. How well is G10 compatible with PETG and ASA? My only concern would be how to mount it to the magnetic bed in an elegant way.
@@futureethan I have never tried it with those materials, but it is an amazing surface to work with for PLA. I imagine one would have to get a magnetic steel bed and see if you could bond a g10 plate to the other side. You would probably have to order it a bit too large and then cut it into the exact bambu bed shape. Too bad there isn't space for clips like on Ender3s
If a bed doesn't work well for PLA I don't think it should be considered a bed 🤣 I would be interested to see ASA and PETG. Where did you get your G10 from?
There are a couple vendors I found online that sell magnetic compatible G10 plates for the X1C. My X1C just got here yesterday, I'll probably be buying G10 and WhamBam plates for it soon.
Did you ever try the Visionminer adhesive on the bambu plates? Just curious, I have a Wham Bam XTR plate, and I'm looking at buying the PEX plate But I plan to use PEX plate with Visionminer adhesive.
@@futureethan They have smaller bottles now, found a couple RUclipsrs who twitch stream and give them away also. Loyal mosses is one. I have a bottle from Amazon $20 but haven't used it yet I've only been using textured plate so far. So I need to buy a smooth plate.
ASA and PETG are my most printed filaments. I was a little upset to see it not work out well for petg :/ The marks did not come off :/ They are permanent :(
Whats the difference between the high temp sheet and engineering plate? I have come from prusa and only ever used or needed two plates. A thekkiiing texture pei for petg and the smooth prusa plate with glue for cf or abs and no glue for pla. sooo many sheets now?
I have only used my engineering plate with TPU, i used the liquid bambu glue... slow print to spec and the parts came out beautifully and used a plastic scraper..
Was going to be a Prusa XL satin plate cut down to the Bambu size. I am still searching for someone to cut it. I have been using a garolite sheet and it works great for PETG
I have learned that PETG even with adhesive like Magigoo and it leaves horrible stains to the plate. Wouldn’t buy it again. Not trying to be negative. PLA all day on it though
That's frustrating. I had hope but I guess this is not the bed for me even if using adhesives. PLA can print on everything tho which doesn't make the $$$ price tag for the bed any better.
Yes, I know that I don't absolutely need the code, but making the start and end process could be useful. By the way, how have the main changes been implemented into Bambu Studio?@@futureethan
I haven't been able to find someone to cut the sheets down to size. I was going to cut some prusa satin sheets to size. I have found those work great for what I usually print (petg, pla, Asa). Once I finish moving, I plan to revisit that and find someone to cut em for me. Not the most approachable solution, however. Also, I find Garolite to work great with petg, pla works well on the high-temperature sheet, and I think Asa works on Garolite.
@@futureethanI honestly normally print just with pla+ but maybe just go use a cutoff wheel and try to cut that other sheet, how much needs to come off?
bro has multiple products that have the manufacturers say: "DO IT THIS WAY", and completely ignores them for reasons (?) and gets disappointed when he injures the build plates and things don't work right 🤦
Am I crazy? Or is it absurd that the Bambu comes with a build surface that requires glue stick? I don't think I've had to use a glue stick on a bed in almost 8 or 9 years!
This aversion to glue stick make me laugh. It literally takes 30 seconds to apply glue stick to a build plate and the surface is good for many many prints without any additional application. Your just making life hard on yourself for no real reason.
Gluestick is easy to apply to the bed, yes.. but then I need to wash the part off which gets the part wet, then dry it off. I print a lot of parts which I sell so doing this for every part is just extra post processing cost…
@@futureethan Hmmm I've never noticed the glue transferring to the parts that I have printed and even it it did get on the parts cleaning off the minor residue is way easier than all the frustrations around not using glue stick in the first place.
I really was turned off by the requirement that I scuff the plate. I bought this at MicroCenter and I'm holding off on possibly returning it...but you're not the first person I've seen who's NOT scuffed it despite the instructions. Mine also came WITH a burgundy 3M scuffing pad.
Can’t wait to hear the other solution :)
I am excited to see the results :)
I just received my PEX plate on Saturday, now waiting for my BL X1C to arrive today. then the fun begins. I'm coming from an ender 3 s1 pro which glue stick and hair spray did not work for me. The only thing that worked was blue painters tape. Can wait to be done with that setup.
Painters tape is what I used a few years ago. Now it is usually PEI. I don't want glue stick or hairspray residue on my prints. Tape is by far the most reliable from what I remember from a few years ago but a pain to apply to the bed.
Thabk you past Ethan.
I use textured PEI plate and it does not require any glue to be honest, but mostly printing PLA+ and started PETG. I have never used on any of my prints 🤷♂️
Textured is great! But for some things that I print, the texture is not desireable.
@@futureethan completely understandable 👍
I'm telling ya right now you do not need gluestick for the engineering plate with PETG. it is literally the perfect bed plate for PETG. no gluestick. Just clean with iso and it works better than anything else I've used
Trying this tonight. Will update.
I’ve been using this too no glue and no issues. Only thing is if I’m printing on the very edge of plate 255mm I need glue (maybe since it’s the edge the bed isn’t as hot?)
First print worked so well… Trying with a bigger part now. You are legends!
Works great with ASA too. Just a little IPA and a wipe before i print and everything has pretty much popped right off as the plate naturally cools
You may want to look into G10/Garolite.
For dry, itchy eyes....
Sorry, had to. Thanks for the video. Starting to try and print ASA.
Okay, thank you for this video. i only print PLA and seeing that you don't need gluestick OR to scuff it up first, I'll give it a shot
I bought it, same happened to me, got tired of testing. New favorite: Lightyear G10 garolite plate. Wham Bam tells you to use Gluestick for PETG in all of their instructions, but G10 works without it for all materials. I regret paing $55 plus tax for the whambam, but I'm buying a second Lightyear plate now because its so good
I like the Lightyear as well. I found that some pla sticks too well, however.
Bambu recommends using a glue stick only to protect the build surface. I notice on the wham bam they have the same warning on their flex plate. I use the engineering and cool plate exclusively, i do have the pei plate, and have never had an issue after I used the glue once and then cleaned the plate with IPA.
Do you use glue stick or other material with your engineering and cool plate?
@@futureethan I used some of the glue stick for a couple of prints and then gave the plate a good wash and honestly haven’t had any problems. Thank goodness the plate flexes because it does stick very well. I just love the smooth surface it gives to prints especially if you’re mating two pieces.
Love your videos! They are very clear and well done.
GLUE IS NOT FOR GLUEING.... Many people seem to be misunderstanding why you should use a glue stick with PETG. It's NOT to make it stick! Actually, just the opposite. The glue stick is used as a releasing agent! PETG tends to stick TOO well. Glue stick is used because it is easy to apply a thin layer and this type of glue doesn't cure, so you can use it over and over and clean it up easy with just water. I've heard Windex can be a good releasing agent as well.
I use Bambu’s double sided PEI and I’ve never had any layer adhesion issues (never used the glue stick either) 🤷♂️
The textured pei sheet? If so, I am looking for a smooth surface finish.
Nice job Ethan
I completely concur that using glue stick to 3D print in 2023 is dumber than dirt. I've been printing TPU on a textured glass build plate for years and it's spoiled me. I pop off the part, peel off the skirt that was printed to prime the nozzle and I'm good to print another part. I print on a 75C glass bed for the first layer and the bed is unheated for the remainder of the print so there's not much wasted energy with a heated bed heating my office.
That is luxury. I wish all polymers were that easy. I have been searching for many years. I'll might make a short video about all my attempts to find the best bed. Glue stick is lame!
At 1.34 or so, you recommend not following the instructions about reparing the PEX build surface. I know you saw a lot of RUclips videos and they didn't follow the instructions either. Why not do what the instructions tell you to do regardless of how may RUclips videos you watch, or don't?
I am not entirely sure but the bed warping could be from it cooling off to quickly. So maybe to avoid this its would be better if it stayed in the printer and have it cool off more slowly.
Yeah you could be right. Ill keep this in mind and see if i notice a difference. Thanks!
You should have scuffed the plate and you should also scuff and clean it after every print. I never had an issue with PETG, ABS, ASA, or PLA. No Gcode is needed too.. That Gcode was used in the very beginning and is not necessary today ( it is an impressive Gcode but not needed). Highly recommend scuffing with 000 steel wool and cleaning with IPA after every print.
Do you think that scuffing the bed would create more surface area, making the part stick more?
How’s that new bed plate video coming?
Glue Stick is cheap and easy to use, also water soluble. Best of all, it just works. I found that Textured PEI wasnt enough alone to keep my prints from coming un-stuck especially when printing at higher speeds on my BambuLabs printer, so I had to take to using glue stick despite everyone and their mom saying its unnecessary and doesnt help on PEI. Could be that my environment is too cold or that theres a lot of particulants in the air here, but glue stick has been a super cheap and easy fix. I dont even have to use it every print, just ever 3-4 prints, and it keeps my prints secured to the bed. It'd be nice to not need/rely on Glue Stick, but im not willing to spend and arm and a leg on build plates and testing when gluestick is so cheap and easy to solve the issue.
If you haven't yet, you should try the textured sheet by Thekkiinngg. I've been using it for the past few weeks, and not one failure. And it works with the lidar if you like using that. As far as using PETG it's always recommended to use glue stick as a release agent. When COVID first started I was using one of my PEX sheets to print face shields using PETG, it didn't look like it was damaging the plate at first, but over time it did start to scar up the PEX sheet. I'm like you, I hate using glue stick, but when printing with PETG I'll switch over to using the Bambu Labs Engineering plate with the glue stick.
Thanks for the suggestion! Looking into it now. Hows the bottome layer texture? Is it super noticeable like on the BBL Texture Sheet?
@@futureethan it is very noticeable. I tried various filaments on mine today, ABS worked very well. I printed multiple 4hr plus prints using ABS and none of them warped, and once plate was fully cooled down they self released. ASA stuck a little hard though, I might stick to the glue stick and Bambu Engineering plate for now if I want to print with ASA. TPU also worked very well. I did not try PETG, I’ve ordered a second plate just so I can do quick swaps of the plates after a print is finished. Once I get the spare sheet I’ll give PETG a try. That way if it does damage the sheet I’ll have a second one ready to go. About a week ago the Thekkiinngg web site was down for some reason. My guess is they were out of stock. I think it’s just a one man operation out of Canada.
you can use windex also for petg instead of glue stick
I also refuse to use gluestick (always have, I'll use blue painter's tape before I'd ever use that madness, I don't care) but one of the fabulous things I found with my X1C is never ever needing to on the 2-sided Textured and 2-sided smooth PEI plates.
Can you share your slicer screen shots please?wondering if the nozzle temp max was way up there and if the machine goes to this temp during higher speed prints?
Good video. I never used glue stick until i bought the X1C. I hate glue stick. Still do. Their liquid glue is better to use but id rather not. I'm going to try some of those changes you did, and look forward to the next plate! Thanks!
I appreciate it! Glue sick is terrible and I don't know how people accept that to be a good solution. I think the next option will be the winner for me. It is difficult to get but I think it will be worth it. Stay tuned!
The reason for the glue stick is for a adhesion barrier. Not promoter.
Would help if ya did a little research. 🙈🤣
Good catch! I'm not sure how I skewed that one up. I hope you still found value in the video.
Im no expert, mostly print in PLA on a textured PEI (bambu P1P and Prusa Mini).... But, i've read that first layer height for PETG should be a little higher than with PLA. I'm aure the default PETG swttings in the slicer should do this, but maybe try adjusting it a bit higher?
Nice video. Why didn't you experiment with bed temperature? I can imagine that would influence the bed adhesion more.
I did this because the wham bam recommended bed temps did not have a range. I could have done a lot more testing but this wasnt supposed to be a detail test. Thanks!
10:50 he does change bed temp if it doesn't work the first time.
I guess it would be an interesting video to see the max and min temps.
If it works it works though
I think not enough people liquid glue sticks. They work fine. Really easy to apply evenly.
I need to go get some hairspray, it sounds like it works even better.
For the cost...I love the cool plate. I'd like a wham Bam pex plate, but it's kind of pricey if I'm going to end up buying more than 1. I might get 1 anyway. Already got a G10 garolite plate which is nice. But only because nylon was giving me issues with sticking.
plain steel plate would do the job for PETG. That's what I use on my voxelab. My need to put brims to stick but then it comes out super easy
Is the bed “damage” actually permanent? Thought it’s just plastic that stuck too well and can be cleaned off?
I just looked at the bed and tried cleaning it off. The part which made the mark on the bed definitely pulled up some of the bed. It isnt much but it is just enough to leave a mark on the bottom of future prints. So I would say the bed is damaged.
@@futureethan I had the same defect in my plate after the model came off, but it disappeared after using the plate a few more times. Maybe the heat healed it.
@@jeffroberts930 interesting. I'll try using it a little more.
@@futureethan Or try to use acetone on it.
i've never once used a glue stick for printing
your links for code do not exist anymore
I got to say. I hate glue stick but Bambu is also selling a liquid and as you (should) wipe down the bed anyway on regular basis, using the glue liquid is much much better.
Does it leave residue on the bottom of the part?
no@@futureethan
So you don’t follow the instructions for the build plate but complain when the plate gets damaged lol 😂
I tried G10 after watching Maker's Muse video, have you ever tried G10 with the X1C? I currently use it on my budget printer, but am concerned about how to apply the sheet to a bambu printer
I think it could be very interesting if you were able to custom cut out a sheet of G10 and fit it in
I have thought about doing this. How well is G10 compatible with PETG and ASA? My only concern would be how to mount it to the magnetic bed in an elegant way.
@@futureethan I have never tried it with those materials, but it is an amazing surface to work with for PLA. I imagine one would have to get a magnetic steel bed and see if you could bond a g10 plate to the other side. You would probably have to order it a bit too large and then cut it into the exact bambu bed shape. Too bad there isn't space for clips like on Ender3s
If a bed doesn't work well for PLA I don't think it should be considered a bed 🤣 I would be interested to see ASA and PETG. Where did you get your G10 from?
There are a couple vendors I found online that sell magnetic compatible G10 plates for the X1C. My X1C just got here yesterday, I'll probably be buying G10 and WhamBam plates for it soon.
Petg sticks and removes great of flat pei sheet
Did you ever try the Visionminer adhesive on the bambu plates? Just curious, I have a Wham Bam XTR plate, and I'm looking at buying the PEX plate But I plan to use PEX plate with Visionminer adhesive.
I have not tried this. That stuff is $$$. Lemme know if you do!
@@futureethan They have smaller bottles now, found a couple RUclipsrs who twitch stream and give them away also. Loyal mosses is one. I have a bottle from Amazon $20 but haven't used it yet I've only been using textured plate so far. So I need to buy a smooth plate.
i have yet to have to use glue stick, just the textured pei plate
Just got mine in today, thanks for doing this as I was about to test asa/petg, did the marks end up coming off?
ASA and PETG are my most printed filaments. I was a little upset to see it not work out well for petg :/ The marks did not come off :/ They are permanent :(
@@futureethan just printed with pla for the first time. It didn’t stick with 60c but it did with 65c although first layer was a little sloppy
@@futureethan according to whambam docs you need gluestick as a release agent for petg
Good video shame those links no longer is available. :/
Thanks! Links are not required. Just use the high temp bed option when printing!
The modified start & endcode is no more availiable under the provided link. Is there another source?
Not another source, unfortunately. I don't think the Gcode actually did anything specific for this bed. Good luck!
Whats the difference between the high temp sheet and engineering plate? I have come from prusa and only ever used or needed two plates. A thekkiiing texture pei for petg and the smooth prusa plate with glue for cf or abs and no glue for pla. sooo many sheets now?
High telp sheet is pei. Engineering plate is some other material. Coming from prusa just use textured or high temp. I hope this helps!
I have only used my engineering plate with TPU, i used the liquid bambu glue... slow print to spec and the parts came out beautifully and used a plastic scraper..
the start and end g-code is no longer on that link, do you have it somewhere that I could copy and paste?
I don’t believe that gcode is necessary for using the Pex Plate. I have had success just with the high temperature profile.
The links for the G Code and Test print are dead. The user doesn't have them posted any more it seems
Did you ever figure out if there was anywhere else to get the start and end g code files for Bambu labs using the wham bam build plate?
no next video?? what was the new plate?
Was going to be a Prusa XL satin plate cut down to the Bambu size. I am still searching for someone to cut it. I have been using a garolite sheet and it works great for PETG
I have learned that PETG even with adhesive like Magigoo and it leaves horrible stains to the plate. Wouldn’t buy it again. Not trying to be negative. PLA all day on it though
That's frustrating. I had hope but I guess this is not the bed for me even if using adhesives. PLA can print on everything tho which doesn't make the $$$ price tag for the bed any better.
lol both links for printables are now down...
I don't believe they are needed. Just use the smooth plate profile.
Hi. Where can I get the modified Gcode files? They are no longer available on Printables...
I don't think you need any modified code to use the plate. The main changes from the gcode have been implemented into Bambu Studio by default.
Yes, I know that I don't absolutely need the code, but making the start and end process could be useful. By the way, how have the main changes been implemented into Bambu Studio?@@futureethan
you ever get that other bed to test that you said would be the solution?
I haven't been able to find someone to cut the sheets down to size. I was going to cut some prusa satin sheets to size. I have found those work great for what I usually print (petg, pla, Asa). Once I finish moving, I plan to revisit that and find someone to cut em for me. Not the most approachable solution, however.
Also, I find Garolite to work great with petg, pla works well on the high-temperature sheet, and I think Asa works on Garolite.
@@futureethanI honestly normally print just with pla+ but maybe just go use a cutoff wheel and try to cut that other sheet, how much needs to come off?
How do those filament rolls work in the AMS? Are they cardboard?
They are not carboard but more a compressed paper so they are stiff. I have almost 1k hours printing with them in ams. Polymaker filament uses them
@@futureethan thanks for the quick response. I’ve been looking at that brand but was hesitant because I thought it was cardboard.
Джонни картонные катушки в амс зло)
bro has multiple products that have the manufacturers say: "DO IT THIS WAY", and completely ignores them for reasons (?) and gets disappointed when he injures the build plates and things don't work right 🤦
Am I crazy? Or is it absurd that the Bambu comes with a build surface that requires glue stick? I don't think I've had to use a glue stick on a bed in almost 8 or 9 years!
Yeah it is crazy. The bambu PEI sheet doesnt require glue for PLA, PETG or ASA.
But it is rexommended
This aversion to glue stick make me laugh. It literally takes 30 seconds to apply glue stick to a build plate and the surface is good for many many prints without any additional application. Your just making life hard on yourself for no real reason.
Gluestick is easy to apply to the bed, yes.. but then I need to wash the part off which gets the part wet, then dry it off. I print a lot of parts which I sell so doing this for every part is just extra post processing cost…
@@futureethan Hmmm I've never noticed the glue transferring to the parts that I have printed and even it it did get on the parts cleaning off the minor residue is way easier than all the frustrations around not using glue stick in the first place.
the reg glue stick def leaves a white film... only reason i dont like it...
Bro! 🤣 I love my glue!
Is the bed surface actually metal ? Or is just a sheet like the golden smooth PEI from aliexpress ?
The bed's surface is PEX which is a surface on top of a metal flex sheet similar to a PEi flex sheet.
@@futureethan have you use one of those golden PEI ones ? If so, would you say PEX is worth the extra money?
I have tried the energetic ones from aliexpress. Same problem with petg. If you are just using pla, both work great.
Bambu Liquid far better to use then BS glue sticks.
I bought some but have not used it yet. What plastics have you printed with it? Which sheet do you use it with?