Your video came just at the right time for my pre MOT brake inspection and the fluid is due for replacement. I have watched your other videos on the subject but noticed you have a new bleeder - pressure tool that seems to be just the job for a one man operation. Thanks for sharing you tips and expertise.
Thanks, the bleeder great and a little better than the G Eezibleeds, but I always used those before to great effect. They are a bit unwieldy and needs a lot more fluid like Bob and he's not going back :-)
British isle weather is something else. Here in central europe most of underbody/chassis parts will be only very lightly corroded after 20 years on this Škoda cars. Appart from outer sills, they tend to badly corode here also :D.
Thanks, it is moored up for the winter, need to fetal the engine as it wasn't running as it should. Engine running lean, giving 70+ mpg on long runs, but konks out for no reason on motorway - requiring an ignition restart - not the safest scenario :-/
Somewhat unrelated but, any suggestions on how to remove those two M8s on the side of the door holding the locking mechanism in place? Mine are completely stripped. Guessing Ill need to buy some bolt extractor kit.
You mean the head of the screw is stripped not the threads? Your going to have to take the lock barrel out and the door handle backing cage, then use a pair of mole grips and they with come out. Have a look at my door handle video ruclips.net/video/cslUxQhyiwo/видео.html :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey So, I replaced the locking mechanism, but it's still not locking. Any ideas? It's obviously an electrical problem. The window wasn't working and I had that professionally done, but after that, the door stopped locking. I think whoever did the window tugged on the harness or something. Idk. Also, people flash their brights at me while I'm driving, pointing to my headlights. I think it's probably the steering angle sensor, since I just put in a new battery (Varta 52). What do you think? Fun car lol.
@@dpavlovsky yes, it sounds like you need to look at the wiring look, often the wires get frayed at the A puller behind the rubber bellows. Check/clean all the connections.
Any part that the pads slides on can be lubricated with appropriate lube. I over did it with the old caliper just to see if I could free it up, but to no avail. I use copper ease, but you there is other brake lubes you can use also. I would recommend you do this on any moving parts :-)
Yes I could have done that, but in my experience if you can't free it up without taking the piston off then it's probably not worth doing that as it will only last a short while until it happens again. I wanted to show that it's easier to buy a new caliper if they start becoming problematic :-)
I had a stuck piston a while back that would not budge in spite of repeated sanding and lubrication. It eventually popped out after soaking for 24 hours, lots of squeezing and about 100 psi of air pressure. Needless to say the piston was useless with deep cavities due to corrosion
I may will never have a chance to do it, but it is very interesting for me... .❤
Your video came just at the right time for my pre MOT brake inspection and the fluid is due for replacement. I have watched your other videos on the subject but noticed you have a new bleeder - pressure tool that seems to be just the job for a one man operation. Thanks for sharing you tips and expertise.
Thanks, the bleeder great and a little better than the G Eezibleeds, but I always used those before to great effect. They are a bit unwieldy and needs a lot more fluid like Bob and he's not going back :-)
I just replace the caliper. Had to do both the rears on both our fabias
Bravoo… great job… have you good trips
British isle weather is something else. Here in central europe most of underbody/chassis parts will be only very lightly corroded after 20 years on this Škoda cars. Appart from outer sills, they tend to badly corode here also :D.
In the UK they put salt on the roads in winter that wrecks havock with cars under-bodies :-/
Good Work Harvey!! "Most Enjoyable" ❤The Channel 👍 (How's the Jag doing theses days.?)
Thanks, it is moored up for the winter, need to fetal the engine as it wasn't running as it should. Engine running lean, giving 70+ mpg on long runs, but konks out for no reason on motorway - requiring an ignition restart - not the safest scenario :-/
Somewhat unrelated but, any suggestions on how to remove those two M8s on the side of the door holding the locking mechanism in place? Mine are completely stripped. Guessing Ill need to buy some bolt extractor kit.
You mean the head of the screw is stripped not the threads? Your going to have to take the lock barrel out and the door handle backing cage, then use a pair of mole grips and they with come out. Have a look at my door handle video ruclips.net/video/cslUxQhyiwo/видео.html :-)
Also, you may have noticed, they are M8 XZN bolts not your regular spline type.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yeah the head of the screw is stripped. I'll take a look at the video. Thanks.
@@HatBoyHarvey So, I replaced the locking mechanism, but it's still not locking. Any ideas? It's obviously an electrical problem. The window wasn't working and I had that professionally done, but after that, the door stopped locking. I think whoever did the window tugged on the harness or something. Idk.
Also, people flash their brights at me while I'm driving, pointing to my headlights. I think it's probably the steering angle sensor, since I just put in a new battery (Varta 52). What do you think?
Fun car lol.
@@dpavlovsky yes, it sounds like you need to look at the wiring look, often the wires get frayed at the A puller behind the rubber bellows. Check/clean all the connections.
На скільки я знаю, то ті пальці змащувати не треба.Гарного дня.
Any part that the pads slides on can be lubricated with appropriate lube. I over did it with the old caliper just to see if I could free it up, but to no avail. I use copper ease, but you there is other brake lubes you can use also. I would recommend you do this on any moving parts :-)
Would have probably saved all the trouble had you sandpapered the piston and cleaned it with brake fluid so it slid in and out with ease
Yes I could have done that, but in my experience if you can't free it up without taking the piston off then it's probably not worth doing that as it will only last a short while until it happens again. I wanted to show that it's easier to buy a new caliper if they start becoming problematic :-)
I had a stuck piston a while back that would not budge in spite of repeated sanding and lubrication. It eventually popped out after soaking for 24 hours, lots of squeezing and about 100 psi of air pressure. Needless to say the piston was useless with deep cavities due to corrosion
engine removal