This is good to watch I've just started to rub down my Chinese fender tele copy I'm going to attempt to build my own john 5 tele out of it but I'm thinking of leaving it mat black I'm not keen on painting the headstock so I'll probably leave it as it is
That sounds cool. I'm glad the video was helpful. If you're on social media please do tag me in the comments if you upload photos of your builds, it's always cool to see what people are making. Good luck and have fun.
I built a commemorative Firemans ax guitar. I was not happy with the rattle can finish so I decided to get a compressor and go with a spraygun. I completely stripped down the red paint using a heat gun used the Bondo and sanded where needed. I then used acetone to clean the wood following with a coating of linseed oil. Today I start the taping and spraying of the primer. Gray seems to be the only color but I did find one that was a rusty red color. But nothing in white. Thanks for the video, it was spot on. And you could never do enough wet sanding.
Thanks for the comment. Your guitar sounds pretty cool. To be honest I used to use a compressor but I was wasting money on paint and varnish but not getting through it quick enough, I was a bit too lazy cleaning my gun sometimes, and it seemed to take me much longer - but it did always look great.
@@DevilAndSons I hear you on that, I’m lazy as well and hope I can get through on cleaning my guns. I’m just looking for a better atomization. Plus when I have a shop mix my pain is going to have red sparkles in it as well.
@@DevilAndSons I would love to tag you on my two guitar designs. They are one offs which means there’s no other guitar like it in the world. But can you tell me how to tag someone? Lol
Nice video, educational and in good timing as I will be making a guitar from parts in a couple of months. Looking forward to the rest of the series. (especially the nitrocellulose episode) Have a good one mate.
@@DevilAndSons I've purchased a Squier M-50. I want to do it in Primer gray like the Brent Mason Signature. It's an interesting looking guitar that I'm going to make look like a Tele and a Les Paul had a baby. I am going to go with a Tele custom style pickup arrangement. The neck humbucker will be a Gibson Humbucker and a Tele pickup in the bridge. This is only my 2nd build and I'm very excited about it. Thanks again.
That does sound cool. If you're on social media do please tag me in the comments so I can have a look, it's always great to see what people get up. Good luck
Loved the video! It would be AMAZING if you guys could do a video talking about your paint booth setup and how you've put it together. I've searched for a while online and found very few resources talking about how a small guitar builder can affordably, and practically, develop a guitar painting setup.
Thanks so much. I was thinking of doing that, although I'm currently using partly for storage too so need to clean it out for a good film of it. The main thing I invested in was an expensive fan. There's a few groups on Facebook about guitar finishing and occasionally people put their ingenious solutions up, one person used a foldaway cupboard from ikea that looked like a cupboard shaped tent.
I'm gonna try this for the first time, starting with naked wood so some extra sanding and spray sealant would also be included. Wish me luck, going with Canary Yellow.
I used to dislike the look of telecasters but I have really come to like them, especially in yellow. If you're on Instagram please do share images when it's done. Have fun.
More questions Devil & Sons, I was going to use a Deft sanding sealer on on my newly built guitar. Then I found out that oil based Polyurethane does adhere to the sanding sealer. Therefore I'm going to a Zissner cover stain white primer and using that in place, then apply tinted poly, and my top coat poly. What do you think?
I'm not sure, I think some sanding sealers and paints are fine over oils like tru oil. If you are essentially restarting the process by covering it all I would sand a bit first, although a good oil will seep into the wood, it may help get an even finish.
Thanks. Yes it should be enough if the original is in good condition and you trust that it and the undercoat are good quality, which they should be if it is reputable brand.
It's a pleasure, and thanks for commenting. I should also say you should sand the surface of the original with something like 600 or 800 grit paper so there is a surface the new paint can adhere to.
How smooth exactly does it need to be before paint? If there are really tiny grain and divit marks would those show through after paint and clear coat polishing?
I use 60 grit normally before priming. Some primers act as fillers to fill the pores, and you may even find some paint does too. But these will always need sanding between to coats to smooth out, and divits or grain will be exgerattwd by each coat but filled as you sand down. If you have porous grain you should use a grain filler first. I will actually be making a video about grain filler in the next month or so. My advice would be to do the 600 grit, prime, sand, fill any large digits and prime and sand again. Normally I find this enough. However if you are unsure I would go ahead and start with a grain filler before doing this. I hope that helps.
@DevilAndSons I used car reps 2k epoxy primer filler and have it fairly smooth there are just a few spots with very very light grain or holes. Was wondering if that would be fine to apply the base coat over. I was thinking of stopping here with the primer. Then doing 3 coats of base coat then sanding some lightly again after 48 hours, then 3 more coats of base, 3 top coats then the 2k clear i bought. My body is basswood and i mostly used dry wall compound and this epoxy primer to fill the grain which is already pretty tight. I have a 1k urethane white pearl paint that has a base and top coat
The only thing I would say is with so many coats it's best to make sure everything is properly dry, so 48 hours between sessions is sensible. I am positive that would sort out any remaining marks.
I use an abek1 filter on my mask, with an additional P3 filter. Recently I have swapped to a full face mask, but I used to use a half mask. 3M make the mask I use, but there are lots of companies, as long as you have the right filter. The P3 (it may be a P3r) is for dust so not essential, but it means I can use it when doing woodwork too.
I have a bad feeling that if that has happened now it may on the rest. You could try eetting them with a damp sponge, if they absorb the water it may help them come off. I wonder if there is a hood sticker removing video on RUclips? Not guitar specific but this must happen on furniture etc.
I imagine that needs a lot of sanding. Very cool though. Is it your own design of have got the files from somewhere? I haven't experimented with 3D printing yet but I'm very intrigued and impressed by it.
Hi there again been watching your playlist been vary helpful it it possible to get a link to buy that primer paint and art the spray paints from the same brand as the primer any good thanks
I think hycote do make some colours, but nit as many as the montana range. I buy the hycote through amazon in the UK. They di a few different primers, in fact I should make a video about that. Honestly there's not much difference but I'll drop the links in below. If you want to spend a bit more the more expensive one is slightly nicer I think.
I just ordered it, haven't tried it out yet. HB body pro. I actually bought it for some non-guitar related things but it looks like it may be pretty good. I won't need it for a week or so though so can't recommend it yet.
@@DevilAndSons still deciding.. I originally wanted to go with a cream color, then I wanted to do like a pastel green. I'm also thinking about going yellow.. there's too many decisions to choose from.. but I just ordered seymour Duncan hot pickups for it, so I'm excited to play it whatever color I choose
Haven't watched yet, but first impression is that 2000s called and they want their tongue stud back. I'll go watch the vid now and see if you break any molars during the filming.
One word about filling bad spots......Bondo???? Why?? You're working with wood, not metal. Use a wood filler for that. It finishes out far better and isn't so difficult to smooth out.
@@DevilAndSons I've always used Elmer's wood filler on wood projects. Most times, I use my finger to apply it with for dings and holes. It dries quickly (in about 30-45 minutes or less to sanding phase) and it smooths out far better than the Bondo (which I have used for auto and motorcycle repair/repaint. And, if need be, you can layer the wood filler to get exact level you need without a lot of hassle. Also, it doesn't create "dead spots" for tonal qualities in the instrument. It's also a lot cheaper than Bondo.
There is a Bondo for wood. I use it on my guitar and I just like the way it sounds and really smooth out particularly for large areas. As far as pin holes or nail holes or indentations in the wood I can see how that might work for you but I have areas that need crisp definition and I can get that with the Bondo.
This video is so instructional! I have been trying to research for RUclips video that educates the stuff in this video! 👌 👏Your video for sure reminds me of the channel of Doctor Ethan! Doctor's tips are educational and I actually learned a lot for my school. He is the helpful medical student on RUclips and he teaches wellness and conditions. I recommend you check his YT out and give the med student a like over here! ➡️ #DoctorEthan
Thanks, I'm so glad you found it useful. Stay tuned as in February I have 28 new videos coming that you may like. I'll check out the Dr, always like a new channel - thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks heaps for this video! This provided all the info I needed get started sanding, prepping, and priming my own build/rebuild and was very happy with the results. I filmed the whole thing here: ruclips.net/video/HQa436SQYuk/видео.html
It definitely has that look but ot's more of a modern abstract pattern. It's by a tattoo artist called Tomas, @tomastomas108 on Instagram. Thanks for commenting.
@@DevilAndSons sorry for being so rude, i was tired. but you should fill the guitar properly before spraying primer, it was awful to see the holes and scratches or whatever after applying primer. primer is not gonna hide them, filler should do the job. and if you're on bare wood and not using 2k products and/or polyester resin, after some time you'll see the wood grain through the paint.
@@DevilAndSons plus also some parts of the body before painting look like sanded by like 220 grit and some parts look almost glossy, polished. always sand the whole body with same grit. im using 600. but even when i spot sand off some filler with 220,i go through 400 and 600 to achieve uniform surface roughness
@@DevilAndSons and one more time ALSO, dont mess with your paint between layers. stop grinding after first layer, you should apply few coats after it dries to touch
This is good to watch I've just started to rub down my Chinese fender tele copy I'm going to attempt to build my own john 5 tele out of it but I'm thinking of leaving it mat black I'm not keen on painting the headstock so I'll probably leave it as it is
That sounds cool. I'm glad the video was helpful. If you're on social media please do tag me in the comments if you upload photos of your builds, it's always cool to see what people are making. Good luck and have fun.
I built a commemorative Firemans ax guitar. I was not happy with the rattle can finish so I decided to get a compressor and go with a spraygun. I completely stripped down the red paint using a heat gun used the Bondo and sanded where needed. I then used acetone to clean the wood following with a coating of linseed oil. Today I start the taping and spraying of the primer. Gray seems to be the only color but I did find one that was a rusty red color. But nothing in white. Thanks for the video, it was spot on. And you could never do enough wet sanding.
Thanks for the comment. Your guitar sounds pretty cool. To be honest I used to use a compressor but I was wasting money on paint and varnish but not getting through it quick enough, I was a bit too lazy cleaning my gun sometimes, and it seemed to take me much longer - but it did always look great.
Also, if you end up putting photos up online please do tag me, it's always good to see what other people are doing.
@@DevilAndSons I hear you on that, I’m lazy as well and hope I can get through on cleaning my guns. I’m just looking for a better atomization. Plus when I have a shop mix my pain is going to have red sparkles in it as well.
@@DevilAndSons I would love to tag you on my two guitar designs. They are one offs which means there’s no other guitar like it in the world. But can you tell me how to tag someone? Lol
@@jimmymeetsworld464 are you on Instagram or Facebook? Basically you could mention me in a comment using @devilandsons
New subscriber and I love your content! I'm about to paint my strap body Daphne blue and your channel is invaluable!
Thank you, that so kind of you to say. Good luck with your respray. What make paint are you using?
Thank you. This answered a few questions I had.
It's a pleasure, I'm glad I could help.
Nice video, educational and in good timing as I will be making a guitar from parts in a couple of months. Looking forward to the rest of the series. (especially the nitrocellulose episode) Have a good one mate.
Cheers.
I think that one will be in March, I'm having a special run of videos (28 of them) in February first.
This was so helpful. Thanks so much.
It's a pleasure. Good luck with your spraying (anything interesting?).
@@DevilAndSons I've purchased a Squier M-50. I want to do it in Primer gray like the Brent Mason Signature. It's an interesting looking guitar that I'm going to make look like a Tele and a Les Paul had a baby. I am going to go with a Tele custom style pickup arrangement. The neck humbucker will be a Gibson Humbucker and a Tele pickup in the bridge. This is only my 2nd build and I'm very excited about it. Thanks again.
That does sound cool. If you're on social media do please tag me in the comments so I can have a look, it's always great to see what people get up. Good luck
Loved the video! It would be AMAZING if you guys could do a video talking about your paint booth setup and how you've put it together. I've searched for a while online and found very few resources talking about how a small guitar builder can affordably, and practically, develop a guitar painting setup.
Thanks so much. I was thinking of doing that, although I'm currently using partly for storage too so need to clean it out for a good film of it. The main thing I invested in was an expensive fan. There's a few groups on Facebook about guitar finishing and occasionally people put their ingenious solutions up, one person used a foldaway cupboard from ikea that looked like a cupboard shaped tent.
I'm gonna try this for the first time, starting with naked wood so some extra sanding and spray sealant would also be included. Wish me luck, going with Canary Yellow.
Good luck for sure. What guitar shape have you got?
I have a naked wood Telecaster body to work with.
I used to dislike the look of telecasters but I have really come to like them, especially in yellow. If you're on Instagram please do share images when it's done. Have fun.
More questions Devil & Sons, I was going to use a Deft sanding sealer on on my newly built guitar. Then I found out that oil based Polyurethane does adhere to the sanding sealer. Therefore I'm going to a Zissner cover stain white primer and using that in place, then apply tinted poly, and my top coat poly. What do you think?
I'm not sure, I think some sanding sealers and paints are fine over oils like tru oil. If you are essentially restarting the process by covering it all I would sand a bit first, although a good oil will seep into the wood, it may help get an even finish.
Hi, are you saying MEK and vinegar? Can't really understand, sorry>
No worries. Meths and acetic acid or distilled white vinegar.
Great video, so you don't have to first take out completely the original paint? just sanding it, is enough?
Thanks. Yes it should be enough if the original is in good condition and you trust that it and the undercoat are good quality, which they should be if it is reputable brand.
@@DevilAndSons Thank you very much for your quick answer. great youtube channel:)
It's a pleasure, and thanks for commenting. I should also say you should sand the surface of the original with something like 600 or 800 grit paper so there is a surface the new paint can adhere to.
Are the sanding sealers, primers, and paints used in this approach oil or water based? Thanks for the video!
All of these ate acrylic or polyurethane.
awesome video and like always useful information
Thanks so much, it's great you comment regularly- I really appreciate that.
Very good video -well done.
Thanks so much for commenting, glad you like it.
Hey, after each primer coat when you sand you mean wet sanding right?
Oh yes, sorry that wasn't clear. Are you working on anything exciting
How smooth exactly does it need to be before paint? If there are really tiny grain and divit marks would those show through after paint and clear coat polishing?
I use 60 grit normally before priming. Some primers act as fillers to fill the pores, and you may even find some paint does too. But these will always need sanding between to coats to smooth out, and divits or grain will be exgerattwd by each coat but filled as you sand down. If you have porous grain you should use a grain filler first. I will actually be making a video about grain filler in the next month or so. My advice would be to do the 600 grit, prime, sand, fill any large digits and prime and sand again. Normally I find this enough. However if you are unsure I would go ahead and start with a grain filler before doing this. I hope that helps.
@DevilAndSons I used car reps 2k epoxy primer filler and have it fairly smooth there are just a few spots with very very light grain or holes. Was wondering if that would be fine to apply the base coat over. I was thinking of stopping here with the primer. Then doing 3 coats of base coat then sanding some lightly again after 48 hours, then 3 more coats of base, 3 top coats then the 2k clear i bought.
My body is basswood and i mostly used dry wall compound and this epoxy primer to fill the grain which is already pretty tight.
I have a 1k urethane white pearl paint that has a base and top coat
I definitely recommend that car rep 2k primer for softer woods it made that basswood solid and dent resistant.
@@DevilAndSons i appreciate your videos and reply btw. Thanks
The only thing I would say is with so many coats it's best to make sure everything is properly dry, so 48 hours between sessions is sensible. I am positive that would sort out any remaining marks.
Hi what sort of mask do you need to paint safely with the paint that you use?
I use an abek1 filter on my mask, with an additional P3 filter. Recently I have swapped to a full face mask, but I used to use a half mask. 3M make the mask I use, but there are lots of companies, as long as you have the right filter. The P3 (it may be a P3r) is for dust so not essential, but it means I can use it when doing woodwork too.
Hi there.I bought an acoustic guitar. It was full of stickers. When I pulled them off parts of the varnish came off. How do I remove the rest evenly?
I have a bad feeling that if that has happened now it may on the rest. You could try eetting them with a damp sponge, if they absorb the water it may help them come off. I wonder if there is a hood sticker removing video on RUclips? Not guitar specific but this must happen on furniture etc.
Are you respraying afterwards?
I'm doing a 3d printed telecaster. It's a bit more intense on the filling. I'm probably going overboard with my sanding but I'll get it there 🙃🙃🙃
I imagine that needs a lot of sanding. Very cool though. Is it your own design of have got the files from somewhere? I haven't experimented with 3D printing yet but I'm very intrigued and impressed by it.
@@DevilAndSons I will likely design or modify my next project but not this one. Kind of an experiment.
Good luck.
If you end up uploading any footage or images do let me know, it's always good to see what other builders are up to.
Hi there again been watching your playlist been vary helpful it it possible to get a link to buy that primer paint and art the spray paints from the same brand as the primer any good thanks
I think hycote do make some colours, but nit as many as the montana range. I buy the hycote through amazon in the UK. They di a few different primers, in fact I should make a video about that. Honestly there's not much difference but I'll drop the links in below. If you want to spend a bit more the more expensive one is slightly nicer I think.
Deal: Hycote High Build Aerosol Car Spray Paint, Grey Plastic Primer, 400 ml amzn.eu/d/byLvdDW
Deal: Hycote Bodyshop High Build Aerosol Car Spray Paint, Grey Primer, 400 ml amzn.eu/d/hXIb7pA
I just noticed there is a white primer too. I imagine that it's just as good, and may be better of you want a white background anyway.
As for montana gold, I sometimes buy it at my local art suppliers, so many shops sell it. Otherwise I like a company online called graffcity.
Can't find that filler anywhere...where do you get it? Thanks Also whereis the recipe for your meths mix?
I had to buy a different brand last week as I can't find it anymore either, I wonder if they went out of business?
ruclips.net/user/shortsPk1MjIravy4?feature=share
@@DevilAndSons So what filler are you using now?
I just ordered it, haven't tried it out yet. HB body pro. I actually bought it for some non-guitar related things but it looks like it may be pretty good. I won't need it for a week or so though so can't recommend it yet.
what did you say you used as a cleaner around 4:30? I've never heard of neffs before, but it looks like pinesol..
It's Meths. Methylated spirits.
This is the mix ruclips.net/user/shortsPk1MjIravy4?feature=share
@@DevilAndSons thank you sir, I decided to buy a blank tele body and build my guitar instead of buying one.. this video is much help
That's exciting. Good luck with it. What have you got planned for the colour?
@@DevilAndSons still deciding.. I originally wanted to go with a cream color, then I wanted to do like a pastel green. I'm also thinking about going yellow.. there's too many decisions to choose from.. but I just ordered seymour Duncan hot pickups for it, so I'm excited to play it whatever color I choose
Haven't watched yet, but first impression is that 2000s called and they want their tongue stud back. I'll go watch the vid now and see if you break any molars during the filming.
Spoiler alert - I didn't. Actually I got this in the early 2000s, it really helps me with painting guitars.
Thanks man!
It's a pleasure.
One word about filling bad spots......Bondo???? Why?? You're working with wood, not metal. Use a wood filler for that. It finishes out far better and isn't so difficult to smooth out.
I find it much easier to work with and smooth. I guess it depends on the make.
@@DevilAndSons I've always used Elmer's wood filler on wood projects. Most times, I use my finger to apply it with for dings and holes. It dries quickly (in about 30-45 minutes or less to sanding phase) and it smooths out far better than the Bondo (which I have used for auto and motorcycle repair/repaint. And, if need be, you can layer the wood filler to get exact level you need without a lot of hassle. Also, it doesn't create "dead spots" for tonal qualities in the instrument. It's also a lot cheaper than Bondo.
I'll have a look to see if that's something I can buy in this country. I've never used bondo as you can't buy that hear either.
Thanks for the suggestions.
There is a Bondo for wood. I use it on my guitar and I just like the way it sounds and really smooth out particularly for large areas. As far as pin holes or nail holes or indentations in the wood I can see how that might work for you but I have areas that need crisp definition and I can get that with the Bondo.
This video is so instructional! I have been trying to research for RUclips video that educates the stuff in this video! 👌 👏Your video for sure reminds me of the channel of Doctor Ethan! Doctor's tips are educational and I actually learned a lot for my school. He is the helpful medical student on RUclips and he teaches wellness and conditions.
I recommend you check his YT out and give the med student a like over here! ➡️ #DoctorEthan
Thanks, I'm so glad you found it useful. Stay tuned as in February I have 28 new videos coming that you may like. I'll check out the Dr, always like a new channel - thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks heaps for this video! This provided all the info I needed get started sanding, prepping, and priming my own build/rebuild and was very happy with the results. I filmed the whole thing here: ruclips.net/video/HQa436SQYuk/видео.html
Brilliant, thanks for commenting and so glad it was helpful. I will check out your video a bit later, so cool.
@@DevilAndSons Yay! Yeah it helped a lot! Thank you.
It's a pleasure. I live the decals on your guitar, very cool. Great job.
A Zebra tattoo
Do you like it?
@@DevilAndSons it is nice , resembles some ethnic tattoos? Is it any ethnic/tribal tattoo?
It definitely has that look but ot's more of a modern abstract pattern. It's by a tattoo artist called Tomas, @tomastomas108 on Instagram. Thanks for commenting.
Hard to think you are creditable when you have a ball bearing on your tongue!!
It's not that hard really though is it?
this is so wrong lol. cant believe you're trying to teach people
Can you please help by telling us what is wrong.
@@DevilAndSons sorry for being so rude, i was tired. but you should fill the guitar properly before spraying primer, it was awful to see the holes and scratches or whatever after applying primer. primer is not gonna hide them, filler should do the job. and if you're on bare wood and not using 2k products and/or polyester resin, after some time you'll see the wood grain through the paint.
@@DevilAndSons plus also some parts of the body before painting look like sanded by like 220 grit and some parts look almost glossy, polished. always sand the whole body with same grit. im using 600. but even when i spot sand off some filler with 220,i go through 400 and 600 to achieve uniform surface roughness
@@DevilAndSons and also for cleaning/degreasing use just alcohol (IPA) your formula is more likely to cause some problems after applying the paint
@@DevilAndSons and one more time ALSO, dont mess with your paint between layers. stop grinding after first layer, you should apply few coats after it dries to touch