At around 24:48 I'm talking about the difference between rubbing compound and polishing compound, but called them both "compound". To be clear, I just use the regular, white automotive polishing compound, designed to use by hand.
Tom, There's something about your conversational style and humility that comes through that makes me want to spend time listening and learning. Thank you for sharing your work.
Thank you, I really appreciate it. A lot of people don't like my voice or way of talking, myself included, but I try my best. I'm not a very charismatic person, the type that usually succeeds on here.
That was fantastic. No-nonsense, straight to the point, no shouting and flashy camera work. Im going to follow your steps and get that old guitar repainted. Brilliant show! Liked and Subscibed! 👍 Thank you!
Awesome demo, and great to hear your take on t-shirts vs microfiber cloths - I always hear the latter referenced online, but I had bad luck with them too and have been a t-shirt guy ever since. So, very validating to hear that's your preferred route, too!
I painted my alder strat body using white duplicolor sand and sealer then sanded it down. Then I sprayed it with duplicolor perfect match yellow, giving it couple of coats, waiting about 15min between coats. Never sanded between coats as lacquer is self leveling and melts into previous coat. I waited a week for color coats to gas off. Then I spray painted it with watco nitro clear gloss right over the color coat. I never sanded the finish but I did buffed it with johnson paste wax (non silicone) and it came out with mirror like finish. The only problem is that the nitro clear is pealing off little bit but that adds to the relic look I went with. It does check nicely. One can also use duplicolor clear over the color to have more robust clear coat. The duplicolor acrylic perfect match paints are probably more robust than pure nitro paints yet they retain the thin coat that is desirable of nitro finish for easy to wear reasons. Next time, I would probably do the whole guitar in stewmac or reranch nitro to be 100% chemically compatible.
I learnt so much from this video, I just HAD to subscribe, such good advice- it goes without saying , the guitar turned out awesome. I will look through all your videos, you got a nice channel ... Thanks!👍
Looks good. Plus yours is one of the most practical and cost-efficient methods I've seen on YT. I would have filled in those "checking" scratches. It would bother me to no end to look down at them, knowing I sanded the old finish and repainted the body. But hey, from 10 feet it looks good. Thanks for taking the time to video this.
Thanks, yeah everyone is different, and that doesn't bother me, but would bother me is if I can see where I filled and sanded under the new paint. I'm not great with filling, so I don't always do it.
A tip for anyone who wants to do this starting with a bare wood body: Don't wet sand with water, unless you have really sealed off the wood well. I just wet sanded with water without sealing up the holes well and sadly ended up with some real bad swelling which is probably gonna make my finish look bad if it ever even comes out. Don't make my same mistake cause it'll ruin your day.
If you're repainting a guitar then there is no need for grain filler. If you started with bare wood, then you need to research that, I'm no expert on painting bare wood.
I do love the look of a blonde or off-white Strat. I'm thinking of getting one those $93 guitars off Amazon and going in with my liner brush and doing an art guitar. Make it look cool first, then worry about how it sounds--the driving philosophy behind cheap guitars.
best kick I get from this video, the spray cans in the store are not locked in a cage. Gotta love that. Great write-up, btw. I had always stripped to the bare wood but my next one will follow your method.
A tip for desoldering the jack wires is to unscrew the jack plate, then flip it over upside down. Screw what would normally be the top screw into what would be the top screw hole on the plate, into the bottom screw hole of the jack plat cavity, in order to secure it and then you can desolder the wires without needing to hold the jack plate.
You did a great job, Very TV Yellow looking, Gibson would be proud ,,I always find that after all the wet sanding I will always see some cloudiness in some spots, so I must spray one more light coat of poly to give it that shine , Nothing other than that works for me, no buffing will get it gone
On my third respray on my old beat up guitar. Hopefully the third time the charm so I can revive this thing after having it disassembled for months lol.
Nice videos Tom. I was wondering if you did any kind of sanding once the primer was on before you did the color coat or any sanding between the color coat and the clear?
I don't usually, but it depends on if there is any issues. If the primer had runs or other problems, I would sand, but usually I don't. That's how I do it, doesn't mean it's right or wrong.
Thanks brother. I was afraid to do this, so for my first one was just sanded, stained and glossed. It looked okay but with your method I will probably do this your way because I bookmarked this one and I am going for it. This video made me feel much more confident. Thanks Tom. I just want to make sure of one thing. After you wet sand it, that is it?? Other than the glossing??
Everything that I do was in the video. Everything is by hand. I'm not against power buffers, I just don't have or feel the need for one. Keep in mind that most of the guitars I paint are already factory sealed, and painted. I'm just scuffing them up and repainting. I also use Duplicolor perfect match from auto parts stores. It works the best for me.
New sub..great videos... could you please do a video of how to make a guitar stand thingy for painting and holding the guitar up? Maybe two options..if you have the time oneday.
Thank you. The stand I have is welded, and not everyone has a welder. The truth is, lately I've been just attaching a board where the neck is and just holding it with my left hand. Then I just hold the guitar horizontal for a minute or so to prevent runs, and then just hang it up on a nail. I have a hole drilled in the top. I also blow some air where I attach the board before painting, to get rid of any saw dust from screwing the board on.
Hi Tom, greetings from Ireland, I love your videos you are doing a great job every time. Would you consider painting a George Harrison Rocky Stratocaster as a detailed project?? I would love to see that. Thanks for all the great content, R 👍👍👍
Hey Tom, thank you for referring me to this video! I used almost the exact same products and have a few layers of the Rustoleum custom lacquer down. There are a few high spots and imperfections I need to get out before clearcoating, what grit of sandpaper would you recommend to help knock those high spots down?
Very great video, just got my body sanded and i’m going to be painting tomorrow, i have a question. Why don’t you use a finishing pad to sand inbetween coats of paint to help the paint adhere better for the next coat? I believe you just did all the coats in one go in the video. the Scratch Filler Primer, Paint, then the Protective Clear Coat Finish without breaking or letting it dry.
This was outstanding. Your voice added a very calm experience while watching. A quick question if you don't mind? So you 1)sand 2)prime 3) paint 4)wet sand then lastly it's just the wax? I didn't see or hear you use a clear coat at the end correct? To get that shine it's just all in the wet sand and wax? That strat turned out beautiful btw
Hey Tom love the video Quick question, if im relic-ing ny guitar, where would i add that part into the mix? The color I'm going over is different is my only worry. My guitar is currently red, its going to be black. I did a rough sand already to the base it needs before prime, and then the black and then the clear coat AND THEN then relic would come next? Curious on your thoughts, thanks!
Personally, I like to show some of the paint underneath, by wetsanding. Here's a relic video I did, but I'm still working on relics. ruclips.net/video/haVyw0PLuwk/видео.html
I never desolder any jacks or pickups for any guitar I’ve painted I just tape everything up good and let ‘em hang out of the way. Just as long as it doesn’t touch the paint while it’s drying comes out fine and you save a lot of time
@@tylerthompson1842 they're pretty cheap at Walmart or harbor freight. It is a good thing to learn too, as jacks often twist and break wires. I get what you're saying, but it is best to remove everything before painting.
Great tutorial. I want to paint my first guitar. How long did the whole process take? The sanding, the primer, the paint, the clear, the extra sanding, and the polishing all together?
I'm not sure about the time, but this is usually a weekend project for me. Paint everything on Friday morning, and start wet sanding 24 hours later. Never had a problem yet using these paints.
Great video! Tom, can you clarify something? With Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, you mention it's not a compound but a polish. Is this correct, and should I look for the one shown? Thanks.
Thanks, lol. That's the one thing that I misspoke about. I was just trying to say that I use polishing compound, not rubbing compound. I use whatever white, hand, auto polish is on sale.
Hey man this video was really helpful and straight forward I just got a yellow jem jr body and plan on painting it white because I messed up the other body but I do have a question should I sand the guitar to bear wood or just scratch it up like how you did in the video and prime ?
Never sand it to bare wood, unless you want the bare wood. The factory has sealed the grain better than we can (if it's a factory paint job). Just scuff it up and paint.
hey i got a few questions for you if you dont mind answering 1. why do you sand down the initial factory coat (mine is "perfect" atm so is it necessary? your older video sanded it down as well... could i not just spray the primer right on) 2. is the real life colour like 17:09 (more saturated) or more like 27:52 (more faded yellow)... i prefer the latter am trying to get that affect Thanks
I guess the color depends on the lighting. This one I had to sand down because someone did a bad paint job with lots of imperfections. Usually I just scuff it a little with very fine scotch Brite.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse looking at this video, this is probably what i should do ruclips.net/video/5hDNzra37Zk/видео.html scuff up with scotch brite and then primer, paint,sand, coat (the usual) would hanging the guitar vertically be a bad idea?
I've been using a board bolted to where the neck would go. I like to hold it horizontal for a minute or so after spraying, or I put it in my stand. It makes me feel like I'm doing a little towards preventing runs. I've painted a neck through guitar hanging vertically with no problems though.
i had a yamaha pacifica with the natural satin color, I'm guessing by the way it looked, it doesn't have any paint on it, just the stuff that made it smooth, what should i do first? is it the same as this video?
I don't do a lot of that, but I have used auto body bondo. It works, but it smells bad, is hard to sand, and sometimes you can see it under the paint, even though it feels smooth. I'm no expert on filling imperfections though, and sometimes I just paint over chips or dings.
Good vid, just about to do a gloss black on a bare wood flying v kit. Thinking of using automotive 1k paint as I've done minor work on cars. Is that really any different to duplicolour tho?
I don't know, I don't remember using 1K paint. I'm sticking to Duplicolor perfect match, it's worked the best for me. If you're doing bare wood, you'll have to use grain sealer, search for some videos about it.
Duplicolor and anything they offer is simply outstanding. Just follow their directions to the letter. Their ceramic engine enamel is the KING for anything metal ( toolboxes, vises,etc) and can be wet sanded and polished out. Their self etching green zinc aerosol primer is fantastic on bare metal and I use that under the engine enamel for tons of stuff.
Turned out awesome! All of your duplicolor finishes look great. I’m planning to paint my first guitar with this method soon. I’ve done a lot of reading and a lot of people say that the duplicolor clear takes forever to cure and in some cases never cures. Have you had any issues with this, example would be setting it down on a towel or carpet and those leave indentations in the finish? If your clear cures nice and solid, are there are ways that you are spraying it that help. Like multiple light coats, or letting it properly dry first before moving on to more coats? I feel like people with those issues may just lay it on too heavy and not letting it dry, but I don’t know because I don’t have experience using it. Sorry for the long comment for a simple question, but thank you!
I do use light coats. I recently am having a problem with rustoleum clear feeling sticky for a while. I don't remember having issues with Duplicolor clear. Are they using perfect match lacquer, or an enamel? Most of my Van Halen paint jobs don't have clear. I play this yellow guitar all the time, and it's not sticky. Haven't noticed anything like that. I only waited a day or so to wet sand it. If you wait a week, even better I guess, but I don't have the patience.
Also, I also think it's a good idea to find a $40 guitar on FB marketplace or a yardsale and paint that first. It should give you confidence and experience. By the way, I'm a big clumsy oaf, I'm not doing anything special.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks for the reply! I’m pretty sure most if not all were people saying that the duplicolor perfect match clear doesn’t cure. But you’re not the only one either who has had successful results so it just be application differences. Either way I’m curious and will test it on a piece of scrap. I really want this perfect match to work for me because just like you I want it done quicker, but definitely willing to take my time where necessary and nitro sounds to gnarly for me and my experience level.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse that would be ideal. I bought just a jackson warrior husk body on eBay for a little over $100. It had a natural oil finish, which I wiped down twice with acetone after sanding and it looks to be removed. It’s mahogany so I will still have to grain fill. For a test piece I may just use maple and sand it so I won’t have to grain fill, but I will try to prepare it so it’s at least flat for better test results.
Great video Tom! Very informative! I've watched a couple times and read through all the comments (and may have missed what I'm asking here). How many cans of each (primer, paint, clear) would you recommend for just a guitar body? Would 1 can of each suffice? Much thanks!
Actually, on this one I might have sanded the primer, but usually I don't. I usually just wait ten minutes between coats no mater if it's primer, color or clear. If I think there's a lot of orange peel or another problem, I'll let it sit overnight, then sand out the problem and paint.
@@CallenOBrien no, not really, only if I see something wrong, I'll let it dry, sand it and then do whatever needs to be done. Usually I just do everything in one day.
Yes, I started using this paint because it's made for cars that take more abuse than your guitar. I just saw a mirror that I painted on a Toyota yesterday. I painted it over 3 years ago, still looks good, even after being out in the elements.
I only stripped one guitar, and it was a waste of time. I've painted dozens now without removing the old paint, no issues. The factory has already sealed it perfectly for you.
After I scuff up the old finish, before primer, do I need to spray with compressed air? Or can I wipe it down with a damp cloth? I need to get the dust off but realized I don’t have a compressor..
I do everything the same day, primer, color and 6 or more coats if clear. The only time you might sand through is on the edges. I just avoid the edges unless I want a slight worn look.
If you're painting with a lacquer over a factory finish, you can usually just scuff it with a fine scotch Brite pad and clean with some rubbing alcohol. Then just do a very light coat at first, to see what happens. I highly recommend Duplicolor perfect match, if it's available. If you're using enamels, you might be able to do the same thing.
I don't have experience with that, I've been trying to stay with the same brand clear as the color. I've even had rustoleum clear lacquer not work well with my Duplicolor, so I try to stay with Duplicolor perfect match. You could always try it though, just put a little coat on, see what happens, but that's up to you.
Not sure if I missed or not but, did you clear coat it after the yellow was sprayed? or did you just "buff/polish" the yellow paint? I about to be spraying my squier strat from bare wood so I'll be primering, color, and then clear. I may fill a few dings here and there before primer. Guitar looks great btw!
hey! question for you - three years later, how well has the finish held up? this method of painting appeals to me as it seems a LOT simpler than what the professional luithiers do.
No, I don't think so, if I remember, I just used the primer to maybe help with adhesion, because I was unsure of the paint type that I was painting over.
I have first tried sanding on covered zones as you mentioned.Sanded with 1000 grit and seems like it removed the clear coat or i am judging before sanding up to 3000.I applied 400 ml of clear coat thinking thats enough ?
That would be hard for me to judge without seeing it. I usually only use one small can of Duplicolor perfect match clear, and have never sanded through, except for the edges of the guitar, but now I avoid those.
Hi Tom, Very cool videos and super useful as well. Starting my paint project soon and watched all your "How to Spray Paint Your Guitar" tutorials. Just one question left here, i did not see you sanding/scruffing the primer..which grid you use for this (800 or several)? Also would you rough the body up between every primer coat? Sorry if those questions sound kind a foolish, however i wanna stick to your process and not miss anything here.. Cheers Patrick
I don't usually sand the primer at all, unless there's an issue. Actually, I don't even use primer all the time, I use it when I'm unsure of what type of paint is already on the guitar. In this video, I pretty much showed everything that I usually do.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Ok that’s helpful, so I might shouldn’t even put a primer/filler since I try to remove a bad paint job knowing underneath is a perfect fabric coat. So I’ll start from a shiny new coat in that case, using x6 coats paint and x6 coats clear coat. Since the original color is black (Stratocaster) wouldn’t it be better to start of with a primer/filler when the new color shall be mint-turquoise (surf green)..? Thanks for your efforts.
..meaning if the black could be shining through the new color. But I’m sure the way you described it here is the way to go, “just scuffing off and get going..” Thanks again😉👍
Would you have to worry about fumes? I've been thinking about trying this myself and I'm not sure if it would be smart to just have it in a storage closet.
@@darkrasen yes, there will be a smell. This paint doesn't smell that bad, but some do. You can even hang it outside for a while, to air out. If you use this paint, you just need to watch out for dust and bugs for a few minutes, because it dries so fast, but an enamel will stay tacky for a while, and possibly attract bugs and dust
@@LeviBulger you never know with RUclips comments, someone once got mad at me for blowing dust off the guitar near a "shrub", but it was actually an invasive vine on my fence.
Hey! So I'm trying to save a little money since duplicolor is so expensive now. I'm going to be doing a black fender 08' squire Stratocaster. Is primer necessary or would it be fine if I just sand the basic factory finish down (And then do my color coat) to get that adhesion that primer gives? If so, what grit should I scuff it to? Also - would any lacquer gloss clear coat do as good of a trick? Thinking of using rustoleum lacquer clear coat for it since it's not $17 a can. Might do a video on this too! I appreciate any tips!
@@FenderShredder there's lots of options, I had bad luck with rustoleum clear lacquer and clear enamel. Yes, Duplicolor perfect match got expensive, I won't use it unless it's a really nice guitar. I've used the rustoleum 2x enamels from home depot or Walmart, but the rustoleum 2x clear wrinkled on me, so now I just use plenty of coats of color, after some sanding, of course.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Nice! So no need for primer if I just sand the original finish down good enough? I also assume you can polish the duplicolor straight on with no need for clear then
@@FenderShredder there's 2 that I did with enamel, I don't think I needed primer, just have to wait longer between coats, and also let dry/cure longer before wet sanding.
No, I don't always use it, if I know it's factory lacquer. In this case, I wasn't sure what kind of paint it was, so I used it. Also, a thin coating of primer won't hurt anything, and it will make the paint job go better (in my experience).
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thank u! ill try it this week. also without Clearcoat.this makes sense to me why u dont need it, and i see the nice result here without 2k clear.
Damn Tom, I did all of it the same way and my finish is still coming out a little cloudy? Anyone know what I did wrong? Not enough sanding? To much clear? Frustrating, respect for the finish your getting tho
I've never had that happen, no matter what paint I've used. I don't know the cause, but I'd let it sit a week, then wet sand lightly with your highest grit, then polish.
@NoNameNo.5 oh, yeah, that's the problem. It's an enamel, you need to let it dry longer, but I had trouble with that clear too. Mine wasn't cloudy, but it started to crackle, as if it were crackle paint. If I paint a guitar with that Rustoleum, I'll just use more color, and no clear.
U say you used polish NOT compound but you have a bottle of compound and not polish in the video. Did you show the wrong thing or say the wrong thing? I bought compound like the one shown wondering if u showed the wrong thing?
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks for the reply! I saw another comment same question u answered thank u it’s turning out great just waiting to wet sand 🔥
not a good idea to use that meguir's car wax on a guitar, it's wax, and I had case fibers sticking to it. 3m scratch remover is a better option because its a cream that finely buffs the finish that sand paper can't get. had to redo the whole clear coat process over again.
My guitar case's interior. The wax fills in the imperfections and is bound to rub off from your hands and clothes rubbing against it. I also know how to paint cars, and from my experience wax is supposed to be replaced on a vehicle every six months. 3m is like using extra extra fine sandpaper in the form of cream.
Oh, I didn't know you meant guitar case. I'm good with turtle wax or whatever. I'm also big on personal experience, so whatever works for me or for yourself is good.
I've been thinking about doing a live video series of the entire painting process, I just need to find a project guitar first. That way I'll show everything in real time.
Ok, maybe this guy has valuable things to share, but man does it get expressed slooooowwwllllyyyyy... I mean, dude... get to the point already! I don't mind low key, but this is ridiculous. Anyway, I was amazed at the final product. Nice gloss and flatness, aside from that one scratched area that really could have been easily filled with CA glue. Love the color! I did a strat recently in a deeper, Simpsons-ish yellow and it looks amazing.
I kinda agree with you, but you don't have to always say what you're thinking. I was pretty proud of this video, and still am. It's for beginners who have never painted a guitar before, or have and didn't get good results. That's why I'm trying to explain everything in detail, in a slow manner.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Yeah, I'm sorry for that. I should have been nicer! Not sure I needed to see the drive over to the Napa, but hey, that's your style I guess. Don't let an idiot like me stop you from doing things your own way. It works, as the final product shows.
At around 24:48 I'm talking about the difference between rubbing compound and polishing compound, but called them both "compound". To be clear, I just use the regular, white automotive polishing compound, designed to use by hand.
Tom, There's something about your conversational style and humility that comes through that makes me want to spend time listening and learning. Thank you for sharing your work.
Thank you, I really appreciate it. A lot of people don't like my voice or way of talking, myself included, but I try my best. I'm not a very charismatic person, the type that usually succeeds on here.
That was fantastic. No-nonsense, straight to the point, no shouting and flashy camera work. Im going to follow your steps and get that old guitar repainted.
Brilliant show! Liked and Subscibed! 👍
Thank you!
Thanks, good luck
Awesome demo, and great to hear your take on t-shirts vs microfiber cloths - I always hear the latter referenced online, but I had bad luck with them too and have been a t-shirt guy ever since. So, very validating to hear that's your preferred route, too!
Thanks, I like using things that work and being reusable and free helps too.
something 100% coton
I painted my alder strat body using white duplicolor sand and sealer then sanded it down. Then I sprayed it with duplicolor perfect match yellow, giving it couple of coats, waiting about 15min between coats. Never sanded between coats as lacquer is self leveling and melts into previous coat. I waited a week for color coats to gas off. Then I spray painted it with watco nitro clear gloss right over the color coat. I never sanded the finish but I did buffed it with johnson paste wax (non silicone) and it came out with mirror like finish. The only problem is that the nitro clear is pealing off little bit but that adds to the relic look I went with. It does check nicely. One can also use duplicolor clear over the color to have more robust clear coat. The duplicolor acrylic perfect match paints are probably more robust than pure nitro paints yet they retain the thin coat that is desirable of nitro finish for easy to wear reasons. Next time, I would probably do the whole guitar in stewmac or reranch nitro to be 100% chemically compatible.
I learnt so much from this video, I just HAD to subscribe, such good advice- it goes without saying , the guitar turned out awesome. I will look through all your videos, you got a nice channel ... Thanks!👍
Thanks! I really appreciate the comments.
Looks good. Plus yours is one of the most practical and cost-efficient methods I've seen on YT. I would have filled in those "checking" scratches. It would bother me to no end to look down at them, knowing I sanded the old finish and repainted the body. But hey, from 10 feet it looks good. Thanks for taking the time to video this.
Thanks, yeah everyone is different, and that doesn't bother me, but would bother me is if I can see where I filled and sanded under the new paint. I'm not great with filling, so I don't always do it.
That came out looking very nice Tom. I must say i agree on your color choice. Very class look.
Thank you!
perfect, just starting looking into this
nice work man. Starting my first painting project now, thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Thank you, You're welcome
Nice guy to listen to. Thanks mate, you presented this in a normal tone of voice, that’s cool, no hipe just a good job.
Thank you! This means a lot to me, since I've had a few negative comments about my voice. I can't do the fake hype thing, I just have to be me.
A tip for anyone who wants to do this starting with a bare wood body: Don't wet sand with water, unless you have really sealed off the wood well. I just wet sanded with water without sealing up the holes well and sadly ended up with some real bad swelling which is probably gonna make my finish look bad if it ever even comes out. Don't make my same mistake cause it'll ruin your day.
I am about to get to this stage and I have nit used a grain filler! Shall I do the same method, with the same grit sandpaper, just without the water?
If you're repainting a guitar then there is no need for grain filler. If you started with bare wood, then you need to research that, I'm no expert on painting bare wood.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse it is a repaint however before starting, I stripped the guitar of its previous finish
@@beatsbyjordan8730 oh, yeah, that wasn't really necessary.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse well its a bit late now 😂 shall I sand it normally without water ?
Looks great, have fun playing it!
Thank you, yeah, this one's a keeper.
Thank you for an awesome video I learned a lot I'm going to be doing my guitar here pretty soon
Awesome! Good luck.
I do love the look of a blonde or off-white Strat. I'm thinking of getting one those $93 guitars off Amazon and going in with my liner brush and doing an art guitar. Make it look cool first, then worry about how it sounds--the driving philosophy behind cheap guitars.
best kick I get from this video, the spray cans in the store are not locked in a cage. Gotta love that. Great write-up, btw. I had always stripped to the bare wood but my next one will follow your method.
Yeah, these are still unlocked but now close to $20 each. My local Walmart now locks up their cans, because people were testing them in the store.
That looks really good. Excellent work.
Thank you
A tip for desoldering the jack wires is to unscrew the jack plate, then flip it over upside down. Screw what would normally be the top screw into what would be the top screw hole on the plate, into the bottom screw hole of the jack plat cavity, in order to secure it and then you can desolder the wires without needing to hold the jack plate.
Good tip!
Thanks. I'm heading off to the garage to paint my guitar now.
Take your time, good luck!
Good video and some great tips, thank you 😊.
Thanks!
Great demo love the color you picked also 👍
Thanks! That's one of my favorite colors, and readily available in my local area.
Thanks for sharing! Good information!
Thank you!
Nice job, I dig that color.
Thank you
Great video, finished guitar looks amazing
Thank you
Lookin good as always, Tom.
Thank you!
gorgeous color
You did a great job, Very TV Yellow looking, Gibson would be proud ,,I always find that after all the wet sanding I will always see some cloudiness in some spots, so I must spray one more light coat of poly to give it that shine , Nothing other than that works for me, no buffing will get it gone
Thank you
Great job sir, came out nice.
Thank you!
Wow 💥
Nice job, came out great 👍
Thank you
Started my first project today. Thanks for the inspiration!
Awesome! Don't get upset if you run into trouble, you can always fix it.
Ha, ha. I tripped and dinged the finish on the side! Otherwise, it turned out nice, for first time. Shot 6+6+6, in copper.@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse
@@Mandobird1 awesome, that ding is a good memory, and legit relic job.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse 💯
Just Great!!!!!!
Thank you!
hi tom great workmanship. i follow ur method. TQ TOM.
for rust oluem paint that i used it effected while im using rubbing acohol 😅.
great jon man 🤘🏻
Thank you
Nice tutorial bro thanks !
You're welcome
Awesome
Thank you
Good video. Would like to hear the guitar after. Kind of a nice cap stone to it all
It sounds great, I just didn't play it because I didn't do any repairs to it. I'll be keeping this one.
Strat to finish 🕺🏻
On my third respray on my old beat up guitar. Hopefully the third time the charm so I can revive this thing after having it disassembled for months lol.
Let me know if you have any questions, maybe I can help.
Nice videos Tom. I was wondering if you did any kind of sanding once the primer was on before you did the color coat or any sanding between the color coat and the clear?
I don't usually, but it depends on if there is any issues. If the primer had runs or other problems, I would sand, but usually I don't. That's how I do it, doesn't mean it's right or wrong.
Thanks brother. I was afraid to do this, so for my first one was just sanded, stained and glossed. It looked okay but with your method I will probably do this your way because I bookmarked this one and I am going for it. This video made me feel much more confident. Thanks Tom. I just want to make sure of one thing. After you wet sand it, that is it?? Other than the glossing??
Everything that I do was in the video. Everything is by hand. I'm not against power buffers, I just don't have or feel the need for one. Keep in mind that most of the guitars I paint are already factory sealed, and painted. I'm just scuffing them up and repainting. I also use Duplicolor perfect match from auto parts stores. It works the best for me.
New sub..great videos... could you please do a video of how to make a guitar stand thingy for painting and holding the guitar up? Maybe two options..if you have the time oneday.
Thank you. The stand I have is welded, and not everyone has a welder. The truth is, lately I've been just attaching a board where the neck is and just holding it with my left hand. Then I just hold the guitar horizontal for a minute or so to prevent runs, and then just hang it up on a nail. I have a hole drilled in the top. I also blow some air where I attach the board before painting, to get rid of any saw dust from screwing the board on.
thanks so much for the great video, any chance you could list the materials paints, clear coats and primers that you used in the description.
I tried showing every single thing in the video, but when I get a chance I'll add the part numbers in the description.
Nice!
Thank you!
Hi Tom, greetings from Ireland, I love your videos you are doing a great job every time. Would you consider painting a George Harrison Rocky Stratocaster as a detailed project?? I would love to see that. Thanks for all the great content, R 👍👍👍
Thank you, I've thought of doing something like that, but I'm not very good at drawing/hand painting.
Hey Tom, thank you for referring me to this video! I used almost the exact same products and have a few layers of the Rustoleum custom lacquer down. There are a few high spots and imperfections I need to get out before clearcoating, what grit of sandpaper would you recommend to help knock those high spots down?
Without seeing it, I guess I would try 1000 grit first, and avoid the edges. You could start higher too if you want.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse That’s what I ended up doing. It’s coming out great so far! Thanks again
@@KCChief1204 How did it turn out?
Very great video, just got my body sanded and i’m going to be painting tomorrow, i have a question.
Why don’t you use a finishing pad to sand inbetween coats of paint to help the paint adhere better for the next coat?
I believe you just did all the coats in one go in the video. the Scratch Filler Primer, Paint, then the Protective Clear Coat Finish without breaking or letting it dry.
Yes, I don't sand in-between coats. Lacquer chemically bonds with itself, and sanding between coats is completely unnecessary.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Thanks for the quick reply, very helpful video. Can’t wait to paint it, very excited!
This was outstanding. Your voice added a very calm experience while watching. A quick question if you don't mind?
So you
1)sand 2)prime 3) paint
4)wet sand then lastly it's just the wax? I didn't see or hear you use a clear coat at the end correct?
To get that shine it's just all in the wet sand and wax?
That strat turned out beautiful btw
Nevermind 🤦🏻♂️ clear coat like 6 coats then wet sand. My bad man lol
Hey Tom love the video
Quick question, if im relic-ing ny guitar, where would i add that part into the mix? The color I'm going over is different is my only worry. My guitar is currently red, its going to be black. I did a rough sand already to the base it needs before prime, and then the black and then the clear coat AND THEN then relic would come next? Curious on your thoughts, thanks!
Personally, I like to show some of the paint underneath, by wetsanding. Here's a relic video I did, but I'm still working on relics.
ruclips.net/video/haVyw0PLuwk/видео.html
I never
desolder any jacks or pickups for any guitar I’ve painted I just tape everything up good and let ‘em hang out of the way. Just as long as it doesn’t touch the paint while it’s drying comes out fine and you save a lot of time
I've done that before, but it's not much work on a strat style guitar, just 3 solder joints.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuseit is if someone doesn’t have a solder gun
@@tylerthompson1842 they're pretty cheap at Walmart or harbor freight. It is a good thing to learn too, as jacks often twist and break wires. I get what you're saying, but it is best to remove everything before painting.
Great tutorial. I want to paint my first guitar. How long did the whole process take? The sanding, the primer, the paint, the clear, the extra sanding, and the polishing all together?
I'm not sure about the time, but this is usually a weekend project for me. Paint everything on Friday morning, and start wet sanding 24 hours later. Never had a problem yet using these paints.
So if you use different paint, the drying time will be more probably.
Great video! Tom, can you clarify something? With Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, you mention it's not a compound but a polish. Is this correct, and should I look for the one shown? Thanks.
Thanks, lol. That's the one thing that I misspoke about. I was just trying to say that I use polishing compound, not rubbing compound. I use whatever white, hand, auto polish is on sale.
Hey man this video was really helpful and straight forward I just got a yellow jem jr body and plan on painting it white because I messed up the other body but I do have a question should I sand the guitar to bear wood or just scratch it up like how you did in the video and prime ?
Never sand it to bare wood, unless you want the bare wood. The factory has sealed the grain better than we can (if it's a factory paint job). Just scuff it up and paint.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse okay thanks
GREAT VIDEO.. I like your approach! Nice result too! Cheers! #mfilesband
Thank you
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse gonna try my first refin soon! a Jaguar in Fiesta Red lets see how it goes! haha
@@mfiles_official I'm sure it'll be great!
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse i'll let you know haha
hey i got a few questions for you if you dont mind answering
1. why do you sand down the initial factory coat (mine is "perfect" atm so is it necessary? your older video sanded it down as well... could i not just spray the primer right on)
2. is the real life colour like 17:09 (more saturated) or more like 27:52 (more faded yellow)... i prefer the latter am trying to get that affect
Thanks
I guess the color depends on the lighting. This one I had to sand down because someone did a bad paint job with lots of imperfections. Usually I just scuff it a little with very fine scotch Brite.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse looking at this video, this is probably what i should do
ruclips.net/video/5hDNzra37Zk/видео.html
scuff up with scotch brite and then primer, paint,sand, coat (the usual)
would hanging the guitar vertically be a bad idea?
I've been using a board bolted to where the neck would go. I like to hold it horizontal for a minute or so after spraying, or I put it in my stand. It makes me feel like I'm doing a little towards preventing runs. I've painted a neck through guitar hanging vertically with no problems though.
i had a yamaha pacifica with the natural satin color, I'm guessing by the way it looked, it doesn't have any paint on it, just the stuff that made it smooth, what should i do first? is it the same as this video?
Without seeing it, I'd assume it's been sealed, and you should be able to paint it the same as I did.
Is there any extra steps at the beginning if you are working with a bare wood body?
Yes, usually grain filler and sanding to start with.
What do you recommend to fill up deeper dings prior to applying primer?
I don't do a lot of that, but I have used auto body bondo. It works, but it smells bad, is hard to sand, and sometimes you can see it under the paint, even though it feels smooth. I'm no expert on filling imperfections though, and sometimes I just paint over chips or dings.
Good vid, just about to do a gloss black on a bare wood flying v kit. Thinking of using automotive 1k paint as I've done minor work on cars. Is that really any different to duplicolour tho?
I don't know, I don't remember using 1K paint. I'm sticking to Duplicolor perfect match, it's worked the best for me. If you're doing bare wood, you'll have to use grain sealer, search for some videos about it.
Duplicolor and anything they offer is simply outstanding. Just follow their directions to the letter.
Their ceramic engine enamel is the KING for anything metal ( toolboxes, vises,etc) and can be wet sanded and polished out.
Their self etching green zinc aerosol primer is fantastic on bare metal and I use that under the engine enamel for tons of stuff.
@@FIGGY65 I love their vinyl/fabric paint too. I've used it to paint amps, it's tough and dries fast.
Turned out awesome! All of your duplicolor finishes look great. I’m planning to paint my first guitar with this method soon. I’ve done a lot of reading and a lot of people say that the duplicolor clear takes forever to cure and in some cases never cures. Have you had any issues with this, example would be setting it down on a towel or carpet and those leave indentations in the finish? If your clear cures nice and solid, are there are ways that you are spraying it that help. Like multiple light coats, or letting it properly dry first before moving on to more coats? I feel like people with those issues may just lay it on too heavy and not letting it dry, but I don’t know because I don’t have experience using it. Sorry for the long comment for a simple question, but thank you!
I do use light coats. I recently am having a problem with rustoleum clear feeling sticky for a while. I don't remember having issues with Duplicolor clear. Are they using perfect match lacquer, or an enamel? Most of my Van Halen paint jobs don't have clear. I play this yellow guitar all the time, and it's not sticky. Haven't noticed anything like that. I only waited a day or so to wet sand it. If you wait a week, even better I guess, but I don't have the patience.
Also, I also think it's a good idea to find a $40 guitar on FB marketplace or a yardsale and paint that first. It should give you confidence and experience. By the way, I'm a big clumsy oaf, I'm not doing anything special.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks for the reply! I’m pretty sure most if not all were people saying that the duplicolor perfect match clear doesn’t cure. But you’re not the only one either who has had successful results so it just be application differences. Either way I’m curious and will test it on a piece of scrap. I really want this perfect match to work for me because just like you I want it done quicker, but definitely willing to take my time where necessary and nitro sounds to gnarly for me and my experience level.
If you try it out on just a piece of wood, it will look rough. Good luck, and don't stress about it. Mistakes can be wet sanded out.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse that would be ideal. I bought just a jackson warrior husk body on eBay for a little over $100. It had a natural oil finish, which I wiped down twice with acetone after sanding and it looks to be removed. It’s mahogany so I will still have to grain fill. For a test piece I may just use maple and sand it so I won’t have to grain fill, but I will try to prepare it so it’s at least flat for better test results.
Great video Tom! Very informative! I've watched a couple times and read through all the comments (and may have missed what I'm asking here). How many cans of each (primer, paint, clear) would you recommend for just a guitar body? Would 1 can of each suffice? Much thanks!
Thanks, yes one can is usually enough. These are small cans though, an extra clear might be needed.
Great, thank you!@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse
looks great! how long did you wait to put color on after your coats of primer?
10 minutes
Actually, on this one I might have sanded the primer, but usually I don't. I usually just wait ten minutes between coats no mater if it's primer, color or clear. If I think there's a lot of orange peel or another problem, I'll let it sit overnight, then sand out the problem and paint.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse perfect, thanks! do you ever sand the paint before putting on the clear?
@@CallenOBrien no, not really, only if I see something wrong, I'll let it dry, sand it and then do whatever needs to be done. Usually I just do everything in one day.
Did you do any sanding between primer and color and color and clear coat?
No, I only did what I showed in the video.
I'm going to be working with a new CNC cut tele. I found a color I like, it's Krylon. Should I primer first since it's fresh wood ? Mahogany
@@raymari7658 usually people seal or use a grain filler, but I'm not experienced enough with that to give advice.
For everyone who hates wood, this is a great video.
What do you mean?
looks great. what is that color called? I love it
Thanks, I'm pretty sure I showed the can and part # in the video.
Looks amazing, but I am very curious about its durability. Will it last through the years?
Yes, I started using this paint because it's made for cars that take more abuse than your guitar. I just saw a mirror that I painted on a Toyota yesterday. I painted it over 3 years ago, still looks good, even after being out in the elements.
Wow what paint color was that on the telecaster? It's beautiful. Same process for it too?
Duplicolor perfect match, Santa Fe Tan. The same process, yes.
Hi Tom, so it's not necessary to strip the guitar down to the wood in order to repaint a poly finished guitar?
I only stripped one guitar, and it was a waste of time. I've painted dozens now without removing the old paint, no issues. The factory has already sealed it perfectly for you.
After I scuff up the old finish, before primer, do I need to spray with compressed air? Or can I wipe it down with a damp cloth? I need to get the dust off but realized I don’t have a compressor..
Wipe it with rubbing alcohol, and maybe use a vacuum.
Like a vacuum that has a hose attachment.
amazing dude! thanks! what do you recommend to avoid sanding. trought the clear , the color or even the primer!
I do everything the same day, primer, color and 6 or more coats if clear. The only time you might sand through is on the edges. I just avoid the edges unless I want a slight worn look.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks! Tom! Do you suggest paint cans instead of spray guns for like a one or two basses a month?
I only use Duplicolor perfect match from the auto parts store. Some people say they get bad cans, but I really haven't. It dries quick too.
You would probably need 2 cans of Duplicolor perfect match clear for a bass.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks! Seeing your videos you teach us that spray cans ca do great job, less paint used, same paint pressure and drops!!
How much did you wait between coats of color and clear coat?
15 minutes
Would you recommend leaving out the clear if I wanted the paint to naturally relic quicker when I play it?
Yes, and sometimes I wetsand the guitar to show some age, with emphasis on the edges.
Tom Peterson-Refuse Reuse awesome, thanks. Also, would I be able to get away without priming and just sanding if I am painting over poly?
If you're painting with a lacquer over a factory finish, you can usually just scuff it with a fine scotch Brite pad and clean with some rubbing alcohol. Then just do a very light coat at first, to see what happens. I highly recommend Duplicolor perfect match, if it's available. If you're using enamels, you might be able to do the same thing.
Hope this question isn't weird, but would a water based clear coat work such as Crystalac Brite Tone? Just wanna be sure...
I don't have experience with that, I've been trying to stay with the same brand clear as the color. I've even had rustoleum clear lacquer not work well with my Duplicolor, so I try to stay with Duplicolor perfect match. You could always try it though, just put a little coat on, see what happens, but that's up to you.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Alrighty 👍
Not sure if I missed or not but, did you clear coat it after the yellow was sprayed? or did you just "buff/polish" the yellow paint? I about to be spraying my squier strat from bare wood so I'll be primering, color, and then clear. I may fill a few dings here and there before primer. Guitar looks great btw!
It's been a while, but yes, I'm sure I used clear,and if I remember, I even showed the cans towards the beginning of the video.
ah yes, I see it now. Thank you!
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse
hey! question for you - three years later, how well has the finish held up? this method of painting appeals to me as it seems a LOT simpler than what the professional luithiers do.
This one sold, but I have others that lasted well. It's automotive paint, made for the elements, that's where I first used it to, on car parts.
Is this a good body i have one similar i was gonna paint that looks like plywood on the inside
Yeah, it's a decent guitar
How long do you let the paint cure before you start the sanding and polishing part?
With this paint, 24 hours.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse cool good to know
Maybe I missed something, but did you sand the "filler" primer?
No, I don't think so, if I remember, I just used the primer to maybe help with adhesion, because I was unsure of the paint type that I was painting over.
I have first tried sanding on covered zones as you mentioned.Sanded with 1000 grit and seems like it removed the clear coat or i am judging before sanding up to 3000.I applied 400 ml of clear coat thinking thats enough ?
That would be hard for me to judge without seeing it. I usually only use one small can of Duplicolor perfect match clear, and have never sanded through, except for the edges of the guitar, but now I avoid those.
Just maybe wet sand the whole guitar and see what happens.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Correct me if i am wrong,
Don't you wetsand your guitar after paint and clear coat process ?
That's what I do, but some people wet sand after color, I think.
That’s exactly the yellow paint colour I’m looking for ! Please. What brand and colour name/number?
At around 12:20 I show the paint, primer and clear, you can pause the video to get the Duplicolor #.
Thank you so much 😊!!
Do you sand the primer too?
I don't usually, but some people might. I would only sand it if it had runs or another problem.
Hi Tom,
Very cool videos and super useful as well.
Starting my paint project soon and watched all your "How to Spray Paint Your Guitar" tutorials.
Just one question left here, i did not see you sanding/scruffing the primer..which grid you use for this (800 or several)?
Also would you rough the body up between every primer coat?
Sorry if those questions sound kind a foolish, however i wanna stick to your process and not miss anything here..
Cheers
Patrick
I don't usually sand the primer at all, unless there's an issue. Actually, I don't even use primer all the time, I use it when I'm unsure of what type of paint is already on the guitar. In this video, I pretty much showed everything that I usually do.
If you're painting over a good finish, I just scuff it with fine scotch Brite, clean with a little rubbing alcohol, and paint.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Ok that’s helpful, so I might shouldn’t even put a primer/filler since I try to remove a bad paint job knowing underneath is a perfect fabric coat. So I’ll start from a shiny new coat in that case, using x6 coats paint and x6 coats clear coat. Since the original color is black (Stratocaster) wouldn’t it be better to start of with a primer/filler when the new color shall be mint-turquoise (surf green)..?
Thanks for your efforts.
..meaning if the black could be shining through the new color. But I’m sure the way you described it here is the way to go, “just scuffing off and get going..”
Thanks again😉👍
@@patrickklein4034 yeah, that would probably be good
Could the guitar do without the clear coats?
Yes
Thanks
What clear coat did you use?
Duplicolor perfect match
Thanks for the video, where did you leave the guitar to dry for the 24 hours?
I have a nail in the floor joist/beam in my basement. The board that I paint the guitar with has a hole in it, I hang it on that in the basement.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Thanks so much!
Would you have to worry about fumes? I've been thinking about trying this myself and I'm not sure if it would be smart to just have it in a storage closet.
@@darkrasen yes, there will be a smell. This paint doesn't smell that bad, but some do. You can even hang it outside for a while, to air out. If you use this paint, you just need to watch out for dust and bugs for a few minutes, because it dries so fast, but an enamel will stay tacky for a while, and possibly attract bugs and dust
Thank you again, I really appreciate it 🙏
Did you sand the paint before clear coat?
No
Did you used clear after painting
Yes, I even showed the cans of paint that I used.
Did I miss the clear coat part of the tutorial? I saw you spray it yellow, then go straight to the bench. Was there no clear coat?
Yes, you probably did. I do everything all at once, and I'm almost positive that I showed the paints that I used in the video, at the beginning.
Yes, I just re-watched it. Definitely showed the cans and also showed and spoke about the clear while painting.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Thanks Tom, I will re-watch.
Remember to always spray towards the little kids standing in front of you 😂
They weren't anywhere near me, might just seem that way.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse I know, I'm just making a joke. You can tell they're actually a good distance away
@@LeviBulger you never know with RUclips comments, someone once got mad at me for blowing dust off the guitar near a "shrub", but it was actually an invasive vine on my fence.
Why did you not put some clear coats?
I did use clear. I showed the cans, their part numbers, and said I was doing 6 or 7 coats of clear coat.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse ok thanks for sharing
Hey! So I'm trying to save a little money since duplicolor is so expensive now. I'm going to be doing a black fender 08' squire Stratocaster. Is primer necessary or would it be fine if I just sand the basic factory finish down (And then do my color coat) to get that adhesion that primer gives? If so, what grit should I scuff it to?
Also - would any lacquer gloss clear coat do as good of a trick? Thinking of using rustoleum lacquer clear coat for it since it's not $17 a can.
Might do a video on this too! I appreciate any tips!
@@FenderShredder there's lots of options, I had bad luck with rustoleum clear lacquer and clear enamel. Yes, Duplicolor perfect match got expensive, I won't use it unless it's a really nice guitar. I've used the rustoleum 2x enamels from home depot or Walmart, but the rustoleum 2x clear wrinkled on me, so now I just use plenty of coats of color, after some sanding, of course.
ruclips.net/video/c2RxuqERB2Y/видео.htmlsi=dcOwjcUt0pG7DdA3
@@FenderShredder ruclips.net/video/awkcr7L4UzI/видео.htmlsi=FmIvkFSNgpjJGjI2
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Nice! So no need for primer if I just sand the original finish down good enough?
I also assume you can polish the duplicolor straight on with no need for clear then
@@FenderShredder there's 2 that I did with enamel, I don't think I needed primer, just have to wait longer between coats, and also let dry/cure longer before wet sanding.
i used to have a telephone in that color
I have one right now, someone gave it to me.
is primer so important?
No, I don't always use it, if I know it's factory lacquer. In this case, I wasn't sure what kind of paint it was, so I used it. Also, a thin coating of primer won't hurt anything, and it will make the paint job go better (in my experience).
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thank u! ill try it this week. also without Clearcoat.this makes sense to me why u dont need it, and i see the nice result here without 2k clear.
Damn Tom, I did all of it the same way and my finish is still coming out a little cloudy? Anyone know what I did wrong? Not enough sanding? To much clear? Frustrating, respect for the finish your getting tho
I've never had that happen, no matter what paint I've used. I don't know the cause, but I'd let it sit a week, then wet sand lightly with your highest grit, then polish.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks Tom, I think it’s because I was not using the Duplicolor clear coat that you recommended. I’ll give it a shot
@NoNameNo.5 what brand color and what brand clear did you use?
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Rustoleum 2x, paint and clear gloss
@NoNameNo.5 oh, yeah, that's the problem. It's an enamel, you need to let it dry longer, but I had trouble with that clear too. Mine wasn't cloudy, but it started to crackle, as if it were crackle paint. If I paint a guitar with that Rustoleum, I'll just use more color, and no clear.
U say you used polish NOT compound but you have a bottle of compound and not polish in the video. Did you show the wrong thing or say the wrong thing? I bought compound like the one shown wondering if u showed the wrong thing?
I only used polish, I misspoke. The white automotive polish is what I use.
polishing compound, not rubbing compound is what I meant to say in the video.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks for the reply! I saw another comment same question u answered thank u it’s turning out great just waiting to wet sand 🔥
not a good idea to use that meguir's car wax on a guitar, it's wax, and I had case fibers sticking to it. 3m scratch remover is a better option because its a cream that finely buffs the finish that sand paper can't get. had to redo the whole clear coat process over again.
I'm not sure what you mean by case fibers, but I've never had any issues.
Also, it's car paint that I'm using...
My guitar case's interior. The wax fills in the imperfections and is bound to rub off from your hands and clothes rubbing against it. I also know how to paint cars, and from my experience wax is supposed to be replaced on a vehicle every six months. 3m is like using extra extra fine sandpaper in the form of cream.
Oh, I didn't know you meant guitar case. I'm good with turtle wax or whatever. I'm also big on personal experience, so whatever works for me or for yourself is good.
How about detailed instructions regarding the curves/horns. Much easier to sand through those areas, which ruins your day.
I've been thinking about doing a live video series of the entire painting process, I just need to find a project guitar first. That way I'll show everything in real time.
But truthfully, I don't do much in those areas. It all depends on each job, but I might just use a little 3000 grit, and then polish, or just polish.
I don't understand, you have a compressor yet you use a rattle can
Well, the rattle can works, I don't have a gun, I don't need to clean a gun. Very satisfied with a rattle can results, no need to change what works.
Ok, maybe this guy has valuable things to share, but man does it get expressed slooooowwwllllyyyyy... I mean, dude... get to the point already! I don't mind low key, but this is ridiculous. Anyway, I was amazed at the final product. Nice gloss and flatness, aside from that one scratched area that really could have been easily filled with CA glue. Love the color! I did a strat recently in a deeper, Simpsons-ish yellow and it looks amazing.
I kinda agree with you, but you don't have to always say what you're thinking. I was pretty proud of this video, and still am. It's for beginners who have never painted a guitar before, or have and didn't get good results. That's why I'm trying to explain everything in detail, in a slow manner.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Yeah, I'm sorry for that. I should have been nicer! Not sure I needed to see the drive over to the Napa, but hey, that's your style I guess. Don't let an idiot like me stop you from doing things your own way. It works, as the final product shows.
tom you do not need to explain yourself. you did an excellent job on video. there is always at least one person who makes stupid irrelevent comments.
@jameswebster8105 thanks, this was actually my first guitar paint jobs that I did as an adult, I've done quite a few since.
$6.89 for a can of paint? I paid 16.99 tonight.
It's gone up to $12 at my local napa since this video, but it's probably close to what you paid at my local Autozone.