I just ordered an unfinished Nuno N4 Chinese copy and plan on making a N4 Bumblebee copy(tribute) will be using all of these steps to paint it, thanks for the tutorials
Did a frankenstrat inspired axe and I didnt use primer yet the tape (stewmac orange) did not peel any layer of the body. But It was a basswood that has sucked up the black coat In some areas yet no biggie. But since I managed to screw up drilling then i buy the body pre-drilled next time for this. Might as well "jump" into the next idea... But my current project Is all motip primer and paint so...
Great video! I always learn so much from watching! I will be painting another guitar this summer. Looking forward to it. Definitely priming this one, too.
This series of videos is excellent!!! It's really helping me put together plans for my own build. How long do you need to wait between coats with this primer? And long does the primer need to cure before spraying your top coat? Thank you
Thank you very much!! I'm glad the video series is helpful!! The PDS information on the website says it's "dry to touch in 30 minutes" and can be "handled in 1 hour"...so I would just follow those guidelines. Just wait long enough for each coat to feel dry to the touch before moving on, but after all of your primer coats are sprayed I would let it dry for another 24 hours before moving on to the dry 400 sanding step.
It depends on which specs you want to be accurate. Locke makes a “Yellow Jacket” neck that is perfect. Musikraft makes killer Charvel spec necks as well. The Bee body from Locke has a Fender-spec 2-3/16” pocket so keep that in mind.
Thank you for this great video tutorial once again. -- I have a question. I am still learning how to do this..... After you paint the yellow body, and letting it dry for a few days. Do we have to wet-sand it for it to be smooth and then put the Tape over it for the stripes? .... Or can we just put the tape over the yellow paint and start spraying the black color? Then just do the final wet-sanding process when its all finished ? I am still not sure if I should wet-sand it when its painted yellow and then do another wet-sanding when its painted black.
@@MAX96MENDES Hopefully after you spray the yellow base coat, you will already have a smooth finish. If that’s the case, then just move on to taping the stripes and painting the black without doing any sanding in between those steps. Hope that helps!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you good friend. This is very helpful. When I finish painting my guitar, I will post for you a photo of my EVH inspired artwork. It is almost like Eddie´s black & white 1970s-era Stratocaster , but my version will be in Navy blue stripes and white color , with slightly different stripes design.
Hi Brian, great video again. After yellow coat number one and two, you let the body dry overnight. Before applying the yellow coat number three and four, did you do a light sanding?
Thanks Peter! There is no sanding between any coats of yellow. I only sanded the primer with 400 (lightly) prior to the yellow coats but nothing else in between.
Hey, appreciate the in depth videos! I am refinishing a 5150 standard to look like this and I'm following your directions to the "T". I'm at the part where I'm spraying the yellow base coat. I'm having an issue where the finish is coming out slightly bumpy though. I lightly sanded between coats 2 and 3 to smooth it out, but it's still bumpy after I spray. I'm painting within the temp and humidity guidelines, any ideas? If I can't get it smooth, would I be able to lightly sand it down and then apply tape? Or would it look bad once I clear coat it?
@@CoffeeDrinker71 No, it feels more sandpaper. I think I may have it sorted now though, I threw another coat and it seems much better. Just waiting for it to dry!
@@bjmccool Ok, in that case it was a good call to sand it and spray again. I did a quick Google search for “spray paint feels like sand” and found a few reasons that cause this. Too much propellant in the can, spraying too far back from the object, or too low of humidity. So…it could be a number of things but it would definitely be a good idea to get it sorted out before moving on…even if it means sanding it back down again and spraying again. I have learned that when using Duplicolor Perfect Match cans, whenever I encounter a problem it’s usually resolved by doing what you just did…sanding the surface and spraying a few more coats. Good luck! Keep me posted!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 I think I was standing too far back with it, so it was starting to dry before it hit the surface. Live and learn. Anyway, thanks for the help. I've wanted to do something like this for years but did not feel confident enough to try it. If it wasn't for your video series, I would not have attempted it!😀
@@bjmccool I'm glad you got it sorted out! Yeah, the distance that you sprayed from could definitely be the culprit. I'm glad the videos are helpful to you! ;) Thanks for the compliments! Cheers!
Hey Man do you have any links for the paint you used because i am building a Bumblebee Replica with my Sister and we want it as close as possible! Great Video by the way 😊
Thank you so much! I went ahead and added Amazon links to the Duplicolor primer and yellow paint in the description. Good luck to you and your sister on your project!!!
@@jbaertube I basically slap them together using 1/8" thickness project boards that you can find cheap at Lowe's (or Rocklers if you have those nearby). I dice them up on a miter saw, then I just slap a paint stirring stick to the back of them with double sided tape. Pretty quick and easy solution. I don't typically prep the wood either, so you really have to bury the grain with heavy coats of primer...but I keep reusing old boards so it's usually got a few coats already buried underneath whatever I'm painting. Hope that helps.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 hey Brian, thanks a for entertaining my newbie questions. One more: are you sanding at all between stages/coats? Also, after painting black over the tape, did you encounter any uneven/raised areas around where the tape was?
@@jbaertube No, not at this stage...you don't need to sand between coats of base color paint. The only stage I sanded between coats is the primer, but that was to help level out the surface. Once you start spraying the base color coat, no sanding is needed between coats. For the question about the black coats and stripes...yes, I did encounter the uneven/raised edges along the stripes. That's normal. Since this particular project involves a full clear coat application, you simply leave those raised edges alone until you reach the clear coat stage. In episode 4 of this series, I showed how this process works. You basically spray 3-4 coats of clear on top of your striped body, then after it cures you proceed with a level sanding process with 600 grit and a firm sanding block. This eliminates the raised edges by leveling the clear coat across the entire surface. Then, you spray 3 more coats of clear to build it all back up again...and start the finish-sanding process as outlined in the freshly released episode 5. I hope that helps!!! ;)
I’m planning on doing a 5150 stryper guitar replica this summer. I have no experience painting so when people say wet sand, why would you wet sand? Is that just if something goes wrong with the paint, like blushing or orange peel? Any other tips on building them would be appreciated. I’m buying from kne for the body and neck, do you think I’d need a neck shim?
Wet sanding is used whenever you are trying to level or smooth out the paint for various reasons. It's almost always used during the final clear coating stages, or to correct a problem (like you mentioned) such as orange peel or blushing. KNE makes excellent bodies and necks. You probably won't need a neck shim since the Floyd Rose will be a "top mounted" style....but each guitar behaves differently, so I can't say for sure. It really depends what your preferences are for the final setup.
I would just make sure the compressor itself doesn't blow any compressor oil or water onto the body (from the tank). Maybe just wipe the body down with a paint prep solvent to be sure it's free of any oils and debris, etc.
Yes, I agree! I’ve used spray guns on previous projects and the results are at least a little more predictable once you have the equipment dialed in properly. I basically wanted to show in this series that a good result is possible with spray guns…but thinking about using nitro clear on one of these bodies, and if so I will probably use a gun for that step. We’ll see! Thanks for watching!
Another great video! Looking forward to seeing the striping. No worries about the long wait between videos. Life happens. :)
Thank you very much!
Your videos have helped me greatly with my guitar projects.
That's awesome to hear! I appreciate that very much. Thanks for watching!
I just ordered an unfinished Nuno N4 Chinese copy and plan on making a N4 Bumblebee copy(tribute) will be using all of these steps to paint it, thanks for the tutorials
That will be really cool! 🙂 Nuno's Bee is badass.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 👍
Awesome man thanks for dropping Epi 2, now for some coffee !!
It's always time for coffee!!!! 😜 Thanks for watching!!
Did a frankenstrat inspired axe and I didnt use primer yet the tape (stewmac orange) did not peel any layer of the body.
But It was a basswood that has sucked up the black coat In some areas yet no biggie.
But since I managed to screw up drilling then i buy the body pre-drilled next time for this.
Might as well "jump" into the next idea...
But my current project Is all motip primer and paint so...
Lacquer is a nitro as i want aging, but i can go and pick up another...
Great video! I always learn so much from watching! I will be painting another guitar this summer. Looking forward to it. Definitely priming this one, too.
Awesome! Thanks for watching! Good luck on your project too!
This series of videos is excellent!!! It's really helping me put together plans for my own build. How long do you need to wait between coats with this primer? And long does the primer need to cure before spraying your top coat? Thank you
Thank you very much!! I'm glad the video series is helpful!! The PDS information on the website says it's "dry to touch in 30 minutes" and can be "handled in 1 hour"...so I would just follow those guidelines. Just wait long enough for each coat to feel dry to the touch before moving on, but after all of your primer coats are sprayed I would let it dry for another 24 hours before moving on to the dry 400 sanding step.
Question what neck do you or anyone recommend fetting for this. I want it accurate but able perform as well any suggestions?
It depends on which specs you want to be accurate. Locke makes a “Yellow Jacket” neck that is perfect. Musikraft makes killer Charvel spec necks as well. The Bee body from Locke has a Fender-spec 2-3/16” pocket so keep that in mind.
Thank you for this great video tutorial once again. -- I have a question. I am still learning how to do this..... After you paint the yellow body, and letting it dry for
a few days. Do we have to wet-sand it for it to be smooth and then put the Tape over it for the stripes?
.... Or can we just put the tape over the yellow paint and start spraying the black color?
Then just do the final wet-sanding process when its all finished ?
I am still not sure if I should wet-sand it when its painted yellow and then do another wet-sanding when its painted black.
@@MAX96MENDES Hopefully after you spray the yellow base coat, you will already have a smooth finish. If that’s the case, then just move on to taping the stripes and painting the black without doing any sanding in between those steps. Hope that helps!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you good friend. This is very helpful. When I finish painting my guitar, I will post for you a photo of my
EVH inspired artwork. It is almost like Eddie´s black & white 1970s-era Stratocaster , but my version will be in Navy blue stripes and white color ,
with slightly different stripes design.
@@MAX96MENDES That sounds really cool!!!! 😎
Hi Brian, great video again. After yellow coat number one and two, you let the body dry overnight. Before applying the yellow coat number three and four, did you do a light sanding?
Thanks Peter! There is no sanding between any coats of yellow. I only sanded the primer with 400 (lightly) prior to the yellow coats but nothing else in between.
Hey, appreciate the in depth videos! I am refinishing a 5150 standard to look like this and I'm following your directions to the "T". I'm at the part where I'm spraying the yellow base coat. I'm having an issue where the finish is coming out slightly bumpy though. I lightly sanded between coats 2 and 3 to smooth it out, but it's still bumpy after I spray. I'm painting within the temp and humidity guidelines, any ideas? If I can't get it smooth, would I be able to lightly sand it down and then apply tape? Or would it look bad once I clear coat it?
Does the texture look like “orange peel”?
@@CoffeeDrinker71 No, it feels more sandpaper. I think I may have it sorted now though, I threw another coat and it seems much better. Just waiting for it to dry!
@@bjmccool Ok, in that case it was a good call to sand it and spray again. I did a quick Google search for “spray paint feels like sand” and found a few reasons that cause this. Too much propellant in the can, spraying too far back from the object, or too low of humidity. So…it could be a number of things but it would definitely be a good idea to get it sorted out before moving on…even if it means sanding it back down again and spraying again. I have learned that when using Duplicolor Perfect Match cans, whenever I encounter a problem it’s usually resolved by doing what you just did…sanding the surface and spraying a few more coats. Good luck! Keep me posted!
@@CoffeeDrinker71 I think I was standing too far back with it, so it was starting to dry before it hit the surface. Live and learn. Anyway, thanks for the help. I've wanted to do something like this for years but did not feel confident enough to try it. If it wasn't for your video series, I would not have attempted it!😀
@@bjmccool I'm glad you got it sorted out! Yeah, the distance that you sprayed from could definitely be the culprit. I'm glad the videos are helpful to you! ;) Thanks for the compliments! Cheers!
Hey Man do you have any links for the paint you used because i am building a Bumblebee Replica with my Sister and we want it as close as possible! Great Video by the way 😊
Thank you so much! I went ahead and added Amazon links to the Duplicolor primer and yellow paint in the description. Good luck to you and your sister on your project!!!
Thanks allot! This is my first Project im realy happy about it.
@@oceansssmaki8879 That's really cool! I hope you have some fun along the way!
Hey Brian thank you for this. What did you use for those test/sample boards?
Hello! I'm happy to help..but are you asking about the wood that I used, or the paint in regards to those sample boards?
The boards themselves. Wasn’t sure if you slapped those together from spare wood or bought them somewhere ready to go?
@@jbaertube I basically slap them together using 1/8" thickness project boards that you can find cheap at Lowe's (or Rocklers if you have those nearby). I dice them up on a miter saw, then I just slap a paint stirring stick to the back of them with double sided tape. Pretty quick and easy solution. I don't typically prep the wood either, so you really have to bury the grain with heavy coats of primer...but I keep reusing old boards so it's usually got a few coats already buried underneath whatever I'm painting. Hope that helps.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 hey Brian, thanks a for entertaining my newbie questions. One more: are you sanding at all between stages/coats? Also, after painting black over the tape, did you encounter any uneven/raised areas around where the tape was?
@@jbaertube No, not at this stage...you don't need to sand between coats of base color paint. The only stage I sanded between coats is the primer, but that was to help level out the surface. Once you start spraying the base color coat, no sanding is needed between coats. For the question about the black coats and stripes...yes, I did encounter the uneven/raised edges along the stripes. That's normal. Since this particular project involves a full clear coat application, you simply leave those raised edges alone until you reach the clear coat stage. In episode 4 of this series, I showed how this process works. You basically spray 3-4 coats of clear on top of your striped body, then after it cures you proceed with a level sanding process with 600 grit and a firm sanding block. This eliminates the raised edges by leveling the clear coat across the entire surface. Then, you spray 3 more coats of clear to build it all back up again...and start the finish-sanding process as outlined in the freshly released episode 5. I hope that helps!!! ;)
I’m planning on doing a 5150 stryper guitar replica this summer. I have no experience painting so when people say wet sand, why would you wet sand? Is that just if something goes wrong with the paint, like blushing or orange peel? Any other tips on building them would be appreciated. I’m buying from kne for the body and neck, do you think I’d need a neck shim?
Wet sanding is used whenever you are trying to level or smooth out the paint for various reasons. It's almost always used during the final clear coating stages, or to correct a problem (like you mentioned) such as orange peel or blushing. KNE makes excellent bodies and necks. You probably won't need a neck shim since the Floyd Rose will be a "top mounted" style....but each guitar behaves differently, so I can't say for sure. It really depends what your preferences are for the final setup.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 thank you so much! You’re such a dude.
Hi, if i blow the body with a compressor, shuld i do the cleaning with the wax pod?
I would just make sure the compressor itself doesn't blow any compressor oil or water onto the body (from the tank). Maybe just wipe the body down with a paint prep solvent to be sure it's free of any oils and debris, etc.
ive got to imagine using an actual air gun would produce even better finish? Ive got all that stuff from back when i was Duracoating Guns.
Yes, I agree! I’ve used spray guns on previous projects and the results are at least a little more predictable once you have the equipment dialed in properly. I basically wanted to show in this series that a good result is possible with spray guns…but thinking about using nitro clear on one of these bodies, and if so I will probably use a gun for that step. We’ll see! Thanks for watching!