Just a tip, but when installing the fabric, it’s best to start at the bottom and do the tub flange first. Then the vertical corners, and then the horizontal seams last. Otherwise you have all negative laps which could potentially serve as a funnel for water to enter the wall cavity. Granted you added so much liquid membrane that it shouldn’t ever be a problem, but it’s just best practice to only do positive laps when waterproofing. Good job on the video though. 👍
Cool video! 👍🏼 You can also apply the liquid membrane to both sides of the lower cement boards before mounting them to the wall. Apply a good amount on the bottom edge. Prevents water from wicking up the cement boards. Water always wins. We can only slow it down. Every bit of prevention helps.
I would recommend doing a minimum of three coats. These paintable waterproofing membranes double as crack prevention membranes when there are enough layers painted on. Helps reduce transmission of cracks in the cement board to the tile.
Thank you for sharing this process. I'm a getting this done and it's good to know exactly what should be done so I will be paying attention and make sure this step gets done. When you pay people to do work for you it is best to know what is going on. Thanks
So, fiber mesh and thinset for cement board joints ... THEN Redgard and fabric tape for waterproofing. I've watched 100 videos and yours is the first to clear that up. Thx Man!
Its overkill. 95% of contractors won't apply fabric over joints already taped and covered with thinset and maybe one out of 100 will waterproof all the way to the ceiling (99 will go as high as the plumbing).
Thank you for the video, a couple things on here I did not know that needed done. I have an upcoming bathroom project. I did my other bathroom but did not put a complete tile wall as I am in my 2nd bath. Thanks for the knowledge.
I am watching your tutorials prior to replacing the pan only in a 60 + year old shower. Since all these waterproofing products were not available 60 yeas ago, what has kept this shower from failing until now. As it is, the walls look great with no evidence of leaking, and I am hoping they will look good once I remove the pan.
Good video. I used the Mapei product over cement board in a shower 6 years ago. No problems to date. I will be installing a new acrylic bathtub in an alcove and will be using Hardiebacker cement board and want to apply Mapei Aquadefense over the backer. Will any spillage harm the finish of the acrylic tub? Thanks.
Read this for a 100% leak proof with well over 100 pans experience. Just use felt paper behind durock, start from bottom up, extending it at least 2" over the liner and each consecutive border, Put the durock over it (prefer to do the dry mortar floor butted against felt for the 1st slope prep for the liner, and butted against the liner instead of the durock for the 2nd pre-tile layer with proper protection (rounded edge tools to not cut up the liner), and durock over felt and over floor mud. Then, you just tape the durock and you are 100% good to go with tile. Also, I watched your other vid. putting the rocks around the drain. Its always a good idea to make a collar with fiberglass tape and put it around the drain threads loosely, so the rocks will not risk falling inside the drain in an event you need to remove the drain prior to tile install for at least 2 reasons it can happen. This will save lots of unnecessary expenses and time. Another trick is to how to efficiently prevent the bottom wall bulging due to the liner folds, without using strips. One way is to chisel out the corners to allow for the liner to be flat, and there is an easier method too but I have only tried it as an experiment 2 times with 100% success will leave it for another comment
By felt paper, you mean the black roofing paper, right? And how do you put it behind the durock - do you stick it on with Redgard? And it sounds like you're only waterproofing behind the durock, so the shower is leakproof, but won't the durock itself be holding water if you aren't waterproofing between it and the tile?
This is helpful. I thought the fabric was only needed for larger gaps and not for small seams, but I could be mistaken. Question: Can construction adhesive be applied directly over the aquadefense once it is cured or will it pull it off? I'm putting up a glue-up surround instead of tile. Or should I just put thinset over the aquadefense?
Wow thats what I call waterproofing! Nice work getting ready to upgrade my condo, I am finally buying from my parents been renting for 17 years so much to do. Thanks so much!
This is a nice tutorial, thanks! These instructions are for waterproofing the cement board, but I have a tub installation question. The flange for my tub looks very similar to yours. It's fiberglass, with some sort of acrylic or other smooth hard finish coat. The install pamphlet recommended using roofing nails, directly into the studs, at the top edge of the flange, so that the bottom half of the nail head just catches the flange. Nothing actually through the flange. That's how I did it. However, every tub install video I watched shows the guys screwing through the flange, and it looks like you did too. What are the pros & cons of screw-through vs. nail over the edge? Also, if you end up recommending that I pull the nails and screw instead, do you countersink a bit first? I like that your tutorial not only shows WHAT you do, but you talk a bit about WHY you do things a certain way.
We used Red Gard on Hardiebacker cement board and the manufacturer (Custom Building Products) recommend pro-lite modified thinset....you need to prime the cement board with a diluted 4 to 1 red gard...then 2 or 3 coats of normal red gard...our tile is 12 x 24 in porcelain
Hi I'm a carpenter and tiling my bathroom and your videos have very helpful I trust what you say you are very knowledgeable I'm planning my own bathroom remodel and my wife picked out a tile for the strip that is a little thicker than the glazed subway tiles was hoping you could tell me a way to still use them I did my other shower but thickness was the other way around was able to scim coat with mastic any suggestions
What’s the best way to handle the plumbing penetrations in your method? Caulk, fabric, and liquid membrane? Or buy schluter’s penetration seals and liquid membrane over the seal fabric? I’d like to do schluter but it would be at least 6x the cost if not more, and time is not a factor for me. Thanks for the video
People talk about the cement board holding water and mold forming. What about the thinset it self? Why does the membrane have to be on the cement board? Why can't it be on the green board behind the cement board? If the cement board will hold water, won't the thinset hold water? Seems as long as there's water proofing somewhere between the studs and the thinset, why does the membrane have to be right behind the thinset?
Hi and Thank you for your good videos! Quick question I used the waterproofing but the the mortar and the tape created bumps a little everywhere along the seems....is this going to be a problem with tiling?
I am putting in a tub surround kit. I was planning on using cement board behind the shower wall panels. The shower panels seem pretty waterproof to me. If I do use cement board behind the panels, will I need to seal/waterproof the cement board?
I dont know if it's still true, but years ago, you'd take some "red guard", put it in a small bucket, mix with water to a make a thin first coat. without this thinned down first coat, the product would dry and crack. You'd wait hours between coats, and go for three coats, including the watery first coat. Or....back in the day, I'm not sure, it might have been hot tar (not availiable today), and that stuff was one coat and done. The solution no longer availiable, is the one that lasted the longest.
how long does the aqua membrane take to dry. Reason why asking.. i work for special or mental or handy cap homes and they need bathing nearly everyday do to thier condition.!.If need be afyer aqua membries fully can they use shower for quick wash up ,, tile i can get in and tile?.Also can you put modified thinsett over aqua membrane..?
Hi, i am planning to use the same cement board and membrane that you used, what type of mortar do you recommend I use for my ceramic tiles (small tiles, like 3x6)? Great instructional video. Thanks
Great Video, now I know the right way to do things! One question:can the blue aqua defense be applied with a roller? I was just thinking that a roller would work faster than a brush.
So that waterproofing sticks to that silicon? The reason I ask is because I'm a retired sheetmetal worker and my experience is that silicon sticks to everything but not everything sticks to silicon.
Just found your channel - looking forward to videos on restoration/maintenance of your 150 year old house (as my house is 135 years old with likely the same kind of needs!).
We have a small part of our shower wall that collapsed. We removed all the tiles and the wet board. Everything around it is dry and solid. We want to use cement board to fix this small area and then apply the new tiles. Is cement board the best to use, what is the best way to waterproof the board? After we waterproof it can we lay the new tiles? Cement board seems a lot cheaper than buying green board which you have to buy in bulk. Love your videos! Thank you
Great video, thanks! So you use fiber mesh tape for the thinset between the cement board joints, AND you use membrane fabric for the aquadefense? So the seams have both fiber tape and membrane fabric--is that correct?
Yes that is what he did. I think the fabric is overkill. If you do a decent job taping and applying thinset to the joints you will be just fine. In fact that is all that is required in my area. Applying redguard or aqua defense is something extra I do for $50 for piece of mind. I have never not applied some type of waterproofing sealant, but I know people who start tiling after taping joints and thinset and haven't had a problem... YET.
This video was good. I will say it was definitely on the over kill side though. I've installed showers for 20 yrs. Mesh in the joints with tile mud and Redgaurd is good. If your joints are tight you could just red gaurd with the mesh tape. To apply red gaurd you need to Dilute your first coat with water. It helps with absorption to the HardieBacker, Durock, or green board. Following up with 2 coats just Redgaurd. Once water gets between tile and the wall waterproofing or not. Cleaning the area for repair is calling for cutting out the damaged wall anyways. Repairs are costly and open the wall to have moisture come in or out to the 2x4,s. No need fore the over kill. Big companies push "This is the best way to do it." Ideas to the homeowners to drain the pocket. I mean why not Redgaurd the 2x4,s and back of the sheetrock 2 feet up before doing the shower walls. Mmmm. I'd pay for that.
Excellent video. Thank you. Question. I'm getting ready to do a shower. I was looking at your shower valve and how far it comes out from the wall or Durock. Does that black plastic square frame around the valve stick out about the thickness of the tile plus the thinset? Thank you.
the cement board is 1/2" thick and is called Dura Rock. It should mate up perfectly with any existing drywall or cement board you have. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes, and it comes in 3'x5' sheets.
Great job dude. I don't know if you know now or if it is recommended for durock, but you should try diluting the membrane to 1 part membrane and 4 parts water. The cement boards suck up the moisture and leave the membrane to easily peel off the boards.
I am also planning to do my shower but that's next year. I was actually looking for what product to use to waterproof exterior cement board for stone installation when I came across your video. You seem to know alot about the different brand products and I heard you mention the Laticrete. It is so expensive. Do you happen to know an alternative I could use for the exterior application over exterior cement board or what is also called permaboard? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sgt Donovan, I have a question. I am remodeling a bathroom with a marble tile floor. The tile is 1/2 inch thick and has to matchup with existing floor thickness of 1 inch. The USG web site says use 1/4 cement board on floors and 1/2 on walls. Should I use 1/4 exterior grade plywood glued to the subfloor then 1/4 cement board or just use 1/2 cement board under the tile? Thank ou for your advice.
@JimBobBek hell no! can not trust most people because of attitudes like you.. Happy to pay true professionals but lately no one understands what that tuly means.
@@chickenpoxGC2010 I think JimBobBek meant that if you don't know that you CANNOT have a "smooth painted finish" in your shower, then you should not be attempting this level of home improvement
I would never use redguard! They recommend that the tiles are installed with modified thinset. Modified thinset should never be used in a shower! Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold!!!!!!!! Spend a little more money and use Schlueter. It is the very best product on the market! And it is guaranteed!
I ended up using the LePage seal and bond on the shower flange and wall gap and around window.. the aqua defence adheres to it well, so no issues there:) finished the tile off with 100% silicone.
This is straight from the manufacturer: Installing Tile or Stone • Mapelastic AquaDefense is ready to receive thin-set tile or stone when dry to touch (after about 30 to 50 minutes). When installing mediumbed mortars (for large tile or stone), screeds (for leveling floors), or epoxy adhesives, let Mapelastic AquaDefense cure for at least 8 hours. • For tile and stone intallations, use MAPEI polymer-modified or epoxy mortars. As for grout, that is more dependant on the spacing of your tiles and the material they're made of. Such as glass tiles require unsanded grout so you don't scratch the tiles :)
Can Red Guard or the other stuff be used to prevent leaks on a shed made out of Hardie backer board ? I have a couple of small leaks and I was going to try Flex Seal but I figured there must be something stronger.
SGT Donovan.. what is the correct protection behind the cement or backer board? I see you used roofing paper, some people use plastic sheeting. The argument is the wall breathing to prevent mold. Everyone has their own ideas but everyone cannot be right. (Between the backer/cement boards and the studs.) Isn't the waterproof membrane enough by itself? (or the Kerdie board?
Keeganzpapa you are 100% correct on basically everything you said. I personally only use roofing paper as a moisture barrier for hardwood flooring. So if you saw it on my wall it was for a different purpose. The plastic on my exterior wall is only required between the actual tub and the wall. I ran it further just because it was there and keeping the insulation protected from drywall dust. I made sure I cut slits all over before I hung the cement board. You are right that they can trap moisture and cause mold. I’ve never seen it applied and used for the purpose of waterproofing, just a building code some places have requiring exterior walls to have a vapor barrier. (No where I live) If any water passes your waterproofing membrane, you have problems. Thanks for the question!
i see lots of people doing this in the UK now . my question is what the hell is water doing behind your finished product. and if you should get a broken silicone seal and get a little engress where does this go as it is now trapped between 2 waterproof membranes
Do not use a premixed mortor to stick your tile on top of waterproofing membrane(redguard, aqua defense). It needs to be a polymer based mortor to adhere to the waterproofing
I’m renovating bathroom. Walls down to studs. Just installed bath tub. Now I’m going to put up cement board but I’m stuck. What size do I put up1/2 inch or 1/4 inch on walls? Every RUclips contractor shows standard is 1/2 inch on walls and1/4 inch on floors. My guy friend who is a diy is telling me that I can put the 1/2 inch but my tile won’t be flush to drywall wall. What do you say?
OK! Gotcha. Now. With this project is tiling going all the way to the top? We are doing partial tile and the rest painted, do we do cement board all the way up?
Jennifer James this one is tile to the top. Only install the cement board where the tile is going. I actually keep it an inch or two below the tile line so the last tile ends on the drywall. It makes it much easier to finish.
You shouldn’t use silicone sealant where you will be placing thinset to adhere tile to. It will not stick. You need to use the sealant recommended for the backer you are using. The rest of the application is fine. Just a note. Nice videos.
Is there any point to filling in the gap behind the anti-fracture fabric covered with liquid waterproof membrane? If there is a point, what product would you recommend for durock?
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Just a tip, but when installing the fabric, it’s best to start at the bottom and do the tub flange first. Then the vertical corners, and then the horizontal seams last. Otherwise you have all negative laps which could potentially serve as a funnel for water to enter the wall cavity. Granted you added so much liquid membrane that it shouldn’t ever be a problem, but it’s just best practice to only do positive laps when waterproofing. Good job on the video though. 👍
Thnx for the tip
That’s why I like this forum so people can share their knowledge
I never used fabric in mine , I just red guarded all the walls with membrane and let it dry. Then tiled, it works great !
@@lastprophet222 I have seen it done this way as well! I have never seen the fabric used like this. I assume it wont hurt anything !
The fabric is in the instructions to use this system…He’s following the instructions….
Cool video! 👍🏼
You can also apply the liquid membrane to both sides of the lower cement boards before mounting them to the wall. Apply a good amount on the bottom edge. Prevents water from wicking up the cement boards.
Water always wins. We can only slow it down. Every bit of prevention helps.
I would recommend doing a minimum of three coats. These paintable waterproofing membranes double as crack prevention membranes when there are enough layers painted on. Helps reduce transmission of cracks in the cement board to the tile.
Thank you for sharing this process. I'm a getting this done and it's good to know exactly what should be done so I will be paying attention and make sure this step gets done. When you pay people to do work for you it is best to know what is going on. Thanks
So, fiber mesh and thinset for cement board joints ... THEN Redgard and fabric tape for waterproofing. I've watched 100 videos and yours is the first to clear that up. Thx Man!
Its overkill. 95% of contractors won't apply fabric over joints already taped and covered with thinset and maybe one out of 100 will waterproof all the way to the ceiling (99 will go as high as the plumbing).
Nahhh... load of rubbish mate. the Mapei Primer and 2 coats of Aqua Defense liquid membrane using the tape as he did and it is almost bullet proof.
Thank you for the video, a couple things on here I did not know that needed done. I have an upcoming bathroom project. I did my other bathroom but did not put a complete tile wall as I am in my 2nd bath. Thanks for the knowledge.
Liked this video, didn’t know you could waterproof up against the tub flange like that, informative video.
Thanks Chuck
I am watching your tutorials prior to replacing the pan only in a 60 + year old shower. Since all these waterproofing products were not available 60 yeas ago, what has kept this shower from failing until now. As it is, the walls look great with no evidence of leaking, and I am hoping they will look good once I remove the pan.
Tar and tar paper have existed forever - I think that's what you'll find behind most old showers.
Good video. I used the Mapei product over cement board in a shower 6 years ago. No problems to date.
I will be installing a new acrylic bathtub in an alcove and will be using Hardiebacker cement board and want to apply Mapei Aquadefense over the backer. Will any spillage harm the finish of the acrylic tub?
Thanks.
Read this for a 100% leak proof with well over 100 pans experience. Just use felt paper behind durock, start from bottom up, extending it at least 2" over the liner and each consecutive border, Put the durock over it (prefer to do the dry mortar floor butted against felt for the 1st slope prep for the liner, and butted against the liner instead of the durock for the 2nd pre-tile layer with proper protection (rounded edge tools to not cut up the liner), and durock over felt and over floor mud. Then, you just tape the durock and you are 100% good to go with tile. Also, I watched your other vid. putting the rocks around the drain. Its always a good idea to make a collar with fiberglass tape and put it around the drain threads loosely, so the rocks will not risk falling inside the drain in an event you need to remove the drain prior to tile install for at least 2 reasons it can happen. This will save lots of unnecessary expenses and time. Another trick is to how to efficiently prevent the bottom wall bulging due to the liner folds, without using strips. One way is to chisel out the corners to allow for the liner to be flat, and there is an easier method too but I have only tried it as an experiment 2 times with 100% success will leave it for another comment
By felt paper, you mean the black roofing paper, right? And how do you put it behind the durock - do you stick it on with Redgard? And it sounds like you're only waterproofing behind the durock, so the shower is leakproof, but won't the durock itself be holding water if you aren't waterproofing between it and the tile?
Hi I have watched all your videos and they have been super helpful Thanks!
Thanks! I’m happy they helped!
Well this video answered my questions in the last video. Great video and explanation. Thanks Sure helped me a lot.
This is helpful. I thought the fabric was only needed for larger gaps and not for small seams, but I could be mistaken. Question: Can construction adhesive be applied directly over the aquadefense once it is cured or will it pull it off? I'm putting up a glue-up surround instead of tile. Or should I just put thinset over the aquadefense?
I need to know this also.🤔
Wow thats what I call waterproofing! Nice work getting ready to upgrade my condo, I am finally buying from my parents been renting for 17 years so much to do. Thanks so much!
Thanks, good luck!
This is a nice tutorial, thanks!
These instructions are for waterproofing the cement board, but I have a tub installation question. The flange for my tub looks very similar to yours. It's fiberglass, with some sort of acrylic or other smooth hard finish coat. The install pamphlet recommended using roofing nails, directly into the studs, at the top edge of the flange, so that the bottom half of the nail head just catches the flange. Nothing actually through the flange. That's how I did it. However, every tub install video I watched shows the guys screwing through the flange, and it looks like you did too. What are the pros & cons of screw-through vs. nail over the edge? Also, if you end up recommending that I pull the nails and screw instead, do you countersink a bit first? I like that your tutorial not only shows WHAT you do, but you talk a bit about WHY you do things a certain way.
rmcdaniel423 The way you did it is fine. I wouldn’t change it.
Great video! Once you are done and the product has thoroughly dried you can tile right on top of this water proofing product, right? Thank you.
Semper Fidelis brother! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've been looking for a video like this; almost exactly like my set up. Thanks so much
Does thinset and modified thinset both stick to the waterproofing membrane? I’m using large porcelain tiles.
We used Red Gard on Hardiebacker cement board and the manufacturer (Custom Building Products) recommend pro-lite modified thinset....you need to prime the cement board with a diluted 4 to 1 red gard...then 2 or 3 coats of normal red gard...our tile is 12 x 24 in porcelain
@@CyndiLH I used red guard on hardibacker. Large format tiles a
Hi I'm a carpenter and tiling my bathroom and your videos have very helpful I trust what you say you are very knowledgeable I'm planning my own bathroom remodel and my wife picked out a tile for the strip that is a little thicker than the glazed subway tiles was hoping you could tell me a way to still use them I did my other shower but thickness was the other way around was able to scim coat with mastic any suggestions
I love your explanations. You make it look easy. Hope it comes together as well for me.
What’s the best way to handle the plumbing penetrations in your method?
Caulk, fabric, and liquid membrane? Or buy schluter’s penetration seals and liquid membrane over the seal fabric?
I’d like to do schluter but it would be at least 6x the cost if not more, and time is not a factor for me.
Thanks for the video
Couldn't I put the waterproofing on before it goes up?at least on bottom portions. ?
Great tutorial bit but does the membrane affect the tiling process or will the tiling be done in the usual manner.
People talk about the cement board holding water and mold forming. What about the thinset it self? Why does the membrane have to be on the cement board? Why can't it be on the green board behind the cement board? If the cement board will hold water, won't the thinset hold water? Seems as long as there's water proofing somewhere between the studs and the thinset, why does the membrane have to be right behind the thinset?
How did you seal the water shower spout and mixing valve area?
How do you seal up wall niches?
Hi and Thank you for your good videos! Quick question I used the waterproofing but the the mortar and the tape created bumps a little everywhere along the seems....is this going to be a problem with tiling?
Could you use a roller to apply the aqua or red guard?
I am putting in a tub surround kit. I was planning on using cement board behind the shower wall panels. The shower panels seem pretty waterproof to me. If I do use cement board behind the panels, will I need to seal/waterproof the cement board?
Did you ever get an answer to your question?
If one imagines no water will EVER be at the very top of the shower tile, that's because one is not the shower cleaner. ;-)
I dont know if it's still true, but years ago, you'd take some "red guard", put it in a small bucket, mix with water to a make a thin first coat. without this thinned down first coat, the product would dry and crack. You'd wait hours between coats, and go for three coats, including the watery first coat. Or....back in the day, I'm not sure, it might have been hot tar (not availiable today), and that stuff was one coat and done. The solution no longer availiable, is the one that lasted the longest.
Really great content Bro! Super helpful, & thanks!
how long does the aqua membrane take to dry. Reason why asking.. i work for special or mental or handy cap homes and they need bathing nearly everyday do to thier condition.!.If need be afyer aqua membries fully can they use shower for quick wash up ,, tile i can get in and tile?.Also can you put modified thinsett over aqua membrane..?
Hi, i am planning to use the same cement board and membrane that you used, what type of mortar do you recommend I use for my ceramic tiles (small tiles, like 3x6)?
Great instructional video.
Thanks
Hai. I want make a tile. How to on the water roof.
The durock system was great and easy to work with
Great Video, now I know the right way to do things! One question:can the blue aqua defense be applied with a roller? I was just thinking that a roller would work faster than a brush.
Yes, you can use a roller.
Now I see why many don’t like hardy backer. Way more work than the paper wire mud float. And you can make a flatter surface.
Sgt........................Why do you have to do both, thinset/tape and also hydro ban and fabric?
Very helpful video but do you need to waterproof cement board for FLOOR tiles?
Thank you! Just the video I was looking for.
what brand fabric did you use? I cant seem to find it if its the Mapei brand....
What’s up Sarge this is good information
Thanks!
What do you use to initially fill the cement board screws and taped seams? Is it thinset or drywall compound? - thanks.
So that waterproofing sticks to that silicon? The reason I ask is because I'm a retired sheetmetal worker and my experience is that silicon sticks to everything but not everything sticks to silicon.
Just found your channel - looking forward to videos on restoration/maintenance of your 150 year old house (as my house is 135 years old with likely the same kind of needs!).
Thanks.. the “old house”related videos are coming soon!
The music sounds like something from an early final fantasy game. Makes me all nostalgic, lol.
We have a small part of our shower wall that collapsed. We removed all the tiles and the wet board. Everything around it is dry and solid. We want to use cement board to fix this small area and then apply the new tiles. Is cement board the best to use, what is the best way to waterproof the board? After we waterproof it can we lay the new tiles? Cement board seems a lot cheaper than buying green board which you have to buy in bulk. Love your videos! Thank you
Schlueter is by far the best product out there!
Seems so, but a lot more expensive than other methods.
Have you used the usg durock liquid membrane and if you have, is it any good? Hooah!
Great video, thanks! So you use fiber mesh tape for the thinset between the cement board joints, AND you use membrane fabric for the aquadefense? So the seams have both fiber tape and membrane fabric--is that correct?
Yes that is what he did. I think the fabric is overkill. If you do a decent job taping and applying thinset to the joints you will be just fine. In fact that is all that is required in my area. Applying redguard or aqua defense is something extra I do for $50 for piece of mind. I have never not applied some type of waterproofing sealant, but I know people who start tiling after taping joints and thinset and haven't had a problem... YET.
The mesh is to tape the sheet rock like drywall it's been tape it, the membrane is part of the waterproof system, like schluter ditra.
Other RUclipss recommend the fabric at plane changes only.
This video was good. I will say it was definitely on the over kill side though. I've installed showers for 20 yrs. Mesh in the joints with tile mud and Redgaurd is good. If your joints are tight you could just red gaurd with the mesh tape. To apply red gaurd you need to Dilute your first coat with water. It helps with absorption to the HardieBacker, Durock, or green board. Following up with 2 coats just Redgaurd. Once water gets between tile and the wall waterproofing or not. Cleaning the area for repair is calling for cutting out the damaged wall anyways. Repairs are costly and open the wall to have moisture come in or out to the 2x4,s. No need fore the over kill. Big companies push "This is the best way to do it." Ideas to the homeowners to drain the pocket. I mean why not Redgaurd the 2x4,s and back of the sheetrock 2 feet up before doing the shower walls. Mmmm. I'd pay for that.
@@davidmoore8505 how much would you dilute REDGUARD first application on HardieBacker?
one major suggestion, ensure the backer board is even with or extends past the tub lip even if only a tiny bit.
Nope
@@79TEOG why not? Even the shower pan and tub instructions say to do this. CBU past the flange. Explain if you can.
Nice video. What was the brand of membrane fabric that you used?
Excellent video. Thank you.
Question. I'm getting ready to do a shower. I was looking at your shower valve and how far it comes out from the wall or Durock.
Does that black plastic square frame around the valve stick out about the thickness of the tile plus the thinset? Thank you.
Yes. The front face of the plastic frame should sit flush with what you expect will be the finished tile surface.
hi how thick is the cement sheets great video will help me reno the laundry into 2nd bathroom do i need to do water proofing around toilet area .
the cement board is 1/2" thick and is called Dura Rock. It should mate up perfectly with any existing drywall or cement board you have. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes, and it comes in 3'x5' sheets.
Great job dude. I don't know if you know now or if it is recommended for durock, but you should try diluting the membrane to 1 part membrane and 4 parts water. The cement boards suck up the moisture and leave the membrane to easily peel off the boards.
What did you use for filling the joints in the backer board. Great video
He had another video for that. It was thin-set mortar with fiberglass tape embedded.
Does the liquid membrane inhibit mortar adhesion?
Great video.. perfect for exactly what I needed to see. Thanks
Can you use a roller. To apply waterproofing.
Great videos!!! This is how I build my showers to.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! This stuff stinks so bad especially when you are working in a closed area. I should be using a fan next time circulate the air.
I am also planning to do my shower but that's next year. I was actually looking for what product to use to waterproof exterior cement board for stone installation when I came across your video. You seem to know alot about the different brand products and I heard you mention the Laticrete. It is so expensive. Do you happen to know an alternative I could use for the exterior application over exterior cement board or what is also called permaboard? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Awesome video! Will construction adhesive applied to Flexstone panels adhere to the waterproofing?
same procedure for Hardie backer ? thanks .
Sgt Donovan, I have a question. I am remodeling a bathroom with a marble tile floor. The tile is 1/2 inch thick and has to matchup with existing floor thickness of 1 inch. The USG web site says use 1/4 cement board on floors and 1/2 on walls. Should I use 1/4 exterior grade plywood glued to the subfloor then 1/4 cement board or just use 1/2 cement board under the tile? Thank ou for your advice.
How does the water drain out from behind the tile, through the grout?
Can u paint over cbp 232 waterproof membrane?
will the tile grout stick if the backerboard is above the tub lip and space behind tile.
Is this method for a smooth paint finish or a tile finish?
@JimBobBek hell no! can not trust most people because of attitudes like you.. Happy to pay true professionals but lately no one understands what that tuly means.
@@chickenpoxGC2010 I think JimBobBek meant that if you don't know that you CANNOT have a "smooth painted finish" in your shower, then you should not be attempting this level of home improvement
@@leeyork3477 you are just a kid..how do you know what he meant?
@@chickenpoxGC2010 Well--1. that pic is from 1949 and 2. I DONT know what he meant. That's why I said "I think". Why you mad bro?
@@leeyork3477 not mad..why you sensitive? Contractors are hard to trust, forced to dyi or see poor work done by someone else..hope you better!
Do you need to waterproof cement board? After all you will covering it with thin set and ceramic tiles. Tks. Good video.
Cement board isn't waterproof.
Either is tile
@@dlove118 Tile IS waterproof, but the lines of grout aren't reliably waterproof over time.
Can I use red guard membrane?
I would never use redguard! They recommend that the tiles are installed with modified thinset. Modified thinset should never be used in a shower! Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold!!!!!!!! Spend a little more money and use Schlueter. It is the very best product on the market! And it is guaranteed!
Does the aqua defence adhere well to the silicone?
I ended up using the LePage seal and bond on the shower flange and wall gap and around window.. the aqua defence adheres to it well, so no issues there:) finished the tile off with 100% silicone.
Why wouldn't a masonry sealer work just as well?It would be a lot faster and can be applied with a garden sprayer.
U explained in a perfect way! 💖💖💖💖👍👍👍👍
great video especially about the fabric. One question I have is, do I need to use a special mortar and grout to stick to the membrane?
This is straight from the manufacturer:
Installing Tile or Stone
• Mapelastic AquaDefense is ready to receive thin-set tile or stone when
dry to touch (after about 30 to 50 minutes). When installing mediumbed mortars (for large tile or stone), screeds (for leveling floors), or
epoxy adhesives, let Mapelastic AquaDefense cure for at least 8 hours.
• For tile and stone intallations, use MAPEI polymer-modified or epoxy
mortars.
As for grout, that is more dependant on the spacing of your tiles and the material they're made of. Such as glass tiles require unsanded grout so you don't scratch the tiles :)
Yes you will need a polymer based mortor to stick your tiles with on top of the rubber membrane (aqua defense)
Nice work 👍
Thanks!
Thank you for this
Can I tile on it after applying the aqua paint
Great video !Very helpful , best one I’ve found thanks
Can Red Guard or the other stuff be used to prevent leaks on a shed made out of Hardie backer board ? I have a couple of small leaks and I was going to try Flex Seal but I figured there must be something stronger.
SGT Donovan.. what is the correct protection behind the cement or backer board? I see you used roofing paper, some people use plastic sheeting. The argument is the wall breathing to prevent mold. Everyone has their own ideas but everyone cannot be right. (Between the backer/cement boards and the studs.) Isn't the waterproof membrane enough by itself? (or the Kerdie board?
Keeganzpapa you are 100% correct on basically everything you said. I personally only use roofing paper as a moisture barrier for hardwood flooring. So if you saw it on my wall it was for a different purpose. The plastic on my exterior wall is only required between the actual tub and the wall. I ran it further just because it was there and keeping the insulation protected from drywall dust. I made sure I cut slits all over before I hung the cement board. You are right that they can trap moisture and cause mold. I’ve never seen it applied and used for the purpose of waterproofing, just a building code some places have requiring exterior walls to have a vapor barrier. (No where I live) If any water passes your waterproofing membrane, you have problems. Thanks for the question!
Is it ok to use joint compound to seal the cement board in a shower surround, then put waterproof membrane over that?
No, joint compound should never be used in a shower. It literally will wash away if it gets wet.
So after the membrane the tile mortar can go right on top of the membrane?
Yes, sir.
Would you mud and waterproof the seams if you were gonna use frp?
i see lots of people doing this in the UK now . my question is what the hell is water doing behind your finished product. and if you should get a broken silicone seal and get a little engress where does this go as it is now trapped between 2 waterproof membranes
What did you use to coat the screws and seams
Thinset
@@jessx1007 that is the correct answer...I just wanted to see if someone said joint compound because waterproofing does NOT bond/adhere to drywall mud
I did this, and was wondering what kind of adhesive you used for the tile. Will the mapei mastic stick and dry against the aqua defense
Do not use a premixed mortor to stick your tile on top of waterproofing membrane(redguard, aqua defense). It needs to be a polymer based mortor to adhere to the waterproofing
Never use mastic in a shower. It'll fail if it ever gets wet. Look up The Tile Coach's video on mastic.
Great job Amigo👍👍👍👍
Did you use modified or unmodified mortar for the joints?
Very helpful. Thanks
Can you use a roller?
Absolutely
Thank You Very Helpful information
I’m renovating bathroom. Walls down to studs. Just installed bath tub. Now I’m going to put up cement board but I’m stuck. What size do I put up1/2 inch or 1/4 inch on walls? Every RUclips contractor shows standard is 1/2 inch on walls and1/4 inch on floors. My guy friend who is a diy is telling me that I can put the 1/2 inch but my tile won’t be flush to drywall wall. What do you say?
1/2 inch for sure. The tile should not be flush with the drywall but the cement board will be.
Can someone tell me if using an oil base interior paint would serve as an replacement for red guard or aqua defender
NO! because oil based paint will never strach, it will crack
OK! Gotcha. Now. With this project is tiling going all the way to the top? We are doing partial tile and the rest painted, do we do cement board all the way up?
Jennifer James this one is tile to the top. Only install the cement board where the tile is going. I actually keep it an inch or two below the tile line so the last tile ends on the drywall. It makes it much easier to finish.
SgtDonovan thanks!
Jenny James @
What about water proofing a nook for soap and shampoo?
Fabric on all seams and a few thick coats of waterproofing. Hope to add a video on that soon.
But how did you build the grey cement board seams BEFORE you did the waterproofing and cloth?
With Thin set make sure you use mesh tape as you apply the thinset onto the seams
He has another video showing this
You shouldn’t use silicone sealant where you will be placing thinset to adhere tile to. It will not stick. You need to use the sealant recommended for the backer you are using. The rest of the application is fine. Just a note. Nice videos.
The aqua defence is covering the silicone, the thinset will adhere to that, no?
Is there any point to filling in the gap behind the anti-fracture fabric covered with liquid waterproof membrane? If there is a point, what product would you recommend for durock?
What did you use on the seams before applying the waterproofing?
He used a fabric. I just bought Redgard seam tape at homedepot.
does this liquid membrane bleed? I plan to tile white subway. Why this feels like over kill? may im wrong.