I've constructed two sets of Friul and it took hours. I love the technique, the way you explain solutions to possible problems and the fact you shared. Viva the Usher Method :-) Thank you.
Someone in my local hobby shop told me about using dress pins, steel type, which are more resistant to bending. I've been using them without fail for about 2 years now. But I must say your use of the 'hold n fold' is pure genius. Patent it - NOW!! 👍
Thank you thank you thank you 🙏 I’m a huge fan of metal tracks and now it’ll take me one tiny fraction of the time it used to take. I love this easy, genius, super cheap ideas
I just used your method last night, it worked perfectly! This is my 1st shot at these tracks for a Tiger 1 and couldn`t imagine drilling each track out! Only thing I did differently was use regular sewing pins, which worked just fine. Thanks so much for posting this method, it`s awesome!
Way to go Mr Usher. What a fantastic way to assemble these friulmodel track sets. I have been using staples to connect the links but I never thought to put them together in a photoetch bender, Thank you very much for sharing your great idea. Take Care....
Excellent idea! I've just started to buy these tracks, but being curious how the wire was fitted delayed my decision as I wanted realistic results in all areas of the build. Kudos to RUclips and yourself for these tutorials!
I have decided to fit metal track to a 1/35 Chieftain. Having not used this type of track before, I had no idea of what a time consuming pain in the arse it really is. Thank you for uploading this video and sharing your discovery/
Just wished you'd carried on and made more videos Peter. I think they would have been excellent and it would have been nice to see how you make your excellent models and dioramas
Simple.........but brilliant, thanks so much for sharing "The Usher Method", I just bought my first set of Friul's and this is by far the faster & easier idea.
Another impressed viewer Peter, just got 6 sets of these. Had used the other make with resin pins, too much drilling and pins snapping. This method looks far better, thank you. Off to order those pins 👍. John
Great idea I think that will work on some of the plastic types to I have a etch mate I think it would help a lot just to keep the track parts straight thanks for sharing
Very inspiring video and method Peter! I adapted it somewhat, cause many pins got bended. Manually pre-inserting the pins through one side of all tracks, then connecting them, thus pushing through the resistance of just one track, reducing chances of bending. Finally cutting the protruding pins with a Dremel cutter. Great fun, thnx again!
Hi Peter , welcome to our fab community ! You need any help or anything at all give us a message !! Hope you and the family had a great new year ! That panther book I've got it's excellent !! Really great !! Great idea matey ! Another really quick way is staples !! They work a treat !!
If you use slightly shorter pins, the heads will look like the track pins so no need to cut them off. Love the idea of the hold and fold, I'll be using that where I can.
I'm struggling to assemble Master Club's T26 tracks which have 0.4mm resin pins (one for ech side of each track). I've ordered some 0.4mm brass rod and hope this will do the trick. Great idea about using the hold n fold - could be the last piece in my particular jigsaw! Great tip and I like your presentation style so I'm subscribing now. Keep up the great work!
I thought about getting some pins instead of using the supplied resin pins. This solidifies why I should get them. Thanks for moving my decision forward into not only the actual realism but not spending hours cleaning and pinning. Ever try burnishing fluids?
I assembled friulmodel's track only once but almost without driling. Wire is harder than white metal so, in most of the pieces, it was enough to push the wire hard into the holes to get through.
I think everyone over thinks this. I use the supplied wire and a cutter only. I jam the wire through the hole, without cleaning it up, snip flush. Repeat. Super fast, no idea why anyone drills them out. If anything the material in there helps hold the wire.
I use bridal & lace pins, nickel-plated steel and 0.5mm in diameter which is closer to what the recommended drill hole is. Did you have any broken track links using the 0.65mm Prym pins?
Excellent idea Peter. I have two concerns, which hopefully you can clarify. 1). Do you ever hammer the pin through the other end of the link? 2). After completing the assembly, you place the links in a bath of fluid to turn them dark. Do the pins discolour also?
I'm putting together m18 hellcat tracks just now and there so brittle they would just snap doing this and the sanding is just rediculious! There kinda like same shape as a panzer 4 the 3 track pin holes are not as well protected like Panthers and tigers! One of the track heads was snapped off in the bag there and the 4mm drill bit took the front of a bite hole off another so hopefully there is a couple spare they have throw in the box for issues like this!
The issue I have is that my 1/35 King Tiger tracks are something like 24mm long but my 0.5mm drill bit isn’t long enough.....I am now going to try this method and just stick the pins in and saves me from drilling out every one
So the BEST metal track sets are from MASTER CLUB. they have alittle more details and they are crisper.Plus I've yet had to drill any holes.as these sets come with super detailed resin pins for both sides.and the great part is no glues needed.yeah ...so far I've put 4 sets together.burshed them .painted /weathered etc.without glue.two pins backed out but that may have been on me for not setting them in enuff.they are about the same $$ as fruils.
I'm sorry to say this, but the method is flawed - and for one simple reason - the track pinhole is 5mm, so trying to jam a .65mm pin through it just doesn't work - well it didn't in my case. I tried the method exactly as you suggested and the first link bent, buckled, and broke - because I was trying to force a .65mm pin into a 5mm hole! After that I bought some 5mm pins, slid them in, put a drop of super glue on and then cut off the excess - no problem.
THAT. Is THE most complicated and tedious way of making a simple task of assembling white metal tracks I have ever seen. I had, using the brass provided in the box, both sets of tracks assembled in 30 minutes. By simply cutting all the brass wire to the required length, using a single drill in a pin vice that went the full distance through the track link without punching through the other side, rolling each pin on glass with a steel ruler to get the pin dead straight, then adding a dab of super glue to one end and slinging the track on the model. 30 Minutes. SIMPLE.
K COX what have you build a Panzer 1, fuckin idiot this method is by far the best I've ever seen it took me five hours for both Panther tracks and I worked very fast
30 minutes to build 2 X 88 link tracks? Just to measure, cut and straighten 176 brass connecting pins would take 30 minutes (assuming each takes on average 10 seconds, which is reasonable). Simple maths suggests that your claim is dubious.
lol this is a very british/ russian ec down to earth method common sense method every other video on this invloves a drill of some kind and still takes ages ... your method - smash the pins in with with a fucking hammer hahaha probally not too far off how track pins are inserted in reality if i had to guess tbh
Freaking BRILLIANT! 25 years of pushing wire through my finger….over! Seriously that is a brilliant method.
I've constructed two sets of Friul and it took hours. I love the technique, the way you explain solutions to possible problems and the fact you shared. Viva the Usher Method :-) Thank you.
Someone in my local hobby shop told me about using dress pins, steel type, which are more resistant to bending.
I've been using them without fail for about 2 years now.
But I must say your use of the 'hold n fold' is pure genius.
Patent it - NOW!! 👍
James Morgan thanks James, I wasted so much time before. Glad you like it 😊
Use em too, just dont use copper only nippers. Ask me how I know! 😓
Very ingenious method for doing those tracks! I'll definitely keep it in mind!
20min verses 2 hrs. thanks for the very wise upload!
Wow, I mean WOW!!! You've turned the art of tedium into a QUICK, not to mention easy, simple and painless task. Thank you.
This was great! Now I know what I want for Christmas. Thanks!
You are the men!
Thanks for sharing these super idea! 👍
Great idea. Going to try this on my Tamiya 135th M1A2 SEP TUSK.
Thank you. Love the metal tracks also. Good tutorial!
OMG WHAT A GREAT TIP FOR FRUIL TRACKS!
Really good idea mr Usher!
Thank you verry mutch for posting this nice video!!that's a real handy way!!verry usefull for everyone!!
wow thanks mate! you just saved me hours. I just bought some for king tiger.
That’s a bloody awesome technique. I’m about to use a set of these for the first time. Cheers
You sir a bloody genius awesome idea thanks for sharing
Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much! I’ll be using the Usher Method today!
Excellent Idea Peter well done.
Thank you Peter, a fantastic system that works brilliantly, you have saved me hours of laborious grind.
great way of doing them thanks for the video
Great video, Peter. More of that please.
Thank you thank you thank you 🙏 I’m a huge fan of metal tracks and now it’ll take me one tiny fraction of the time it used to take. I love this easy, genius, super cheap ideas
great vid...thank you for the technique. Good solution to a problem.
I just used your method last night, it worked perfectly! This is my 1st shot at these tracks for a Tiger 1 and couldn`t imagine drilling each track out! Only thing I did differently was use regular sewing pins, which worked just fine. Thanks so much for posting this method, it`s awesome!
Great idea. Had not seen it before. Thanks for sharing.
Way to go Mr Usher. What a fantastic way to assemble these friulmodel track sets. I have been using staples to connect the links but I never thought to put them together in a photoetch bender, Thank you very much for sharing your great idea. Take Care....
Excellent idea! I've just started to buy these tracks, but being curious how the wire was fitted delayed my decision as I wanted realistic results in all areas of the build. Kudos to RUclips and yourself for these tutorials!
Thanks so much for this! I love these tracks but I was losing the will to keep breathing preparing and assembling them... Genius!
I have decided to fit metal track to a 1/35 Chieftain.
Having not used this type of track before, I had no idea of what a time consuming pain in the arse it really is.
Thank you for uploading this video and sharing your discovery/
Thanks, that will save a lot of time, when you do the link tracks. Well Done.
Thumbs Up! Smart idea Peter!
Just wished you'd carried on and made more videos Peter. I think they would have been excellent and it would have been nice to see how you make your excellent models and dioramas
Simple.........but brilliant, thanks so much for sharing "The Usher Method", I just bought my first set of Friul's and this is by far the faster & easier idea.
chelseachelseaboy glad you like it mate. 👌
Another impressed viewer Peter, just got 6 sets of these. Had used the other make with resin pins, too much drilling and pins snapping. This method looks far better, thank you. Off to order those pins 👍. John
magnificent ! u change my life :)
Great idea-Thanks for sharing this
Great idea I think that will work on some of the plastic types to I have a etch mate I think it would help a lot just to keep the track parts straight thanks for sharing
Very inspiring video and method Peter!
I adapted it somewhat, cause many pins got bended. Manually pre-inserting the pins through one side of all tracks, then connecting them, thus pushing through the resistance of just one track, reducing chances of bending. Finally cutting the protruding pins with a Dremel cutter.
Great fun, thnx again!
Fantastic! Going to try it!
This is awesome. Thanks, man.
Excellent tip, using it now
great idea，thank you very much！
Genius. Great tip.
interesting way of doing it. My next set i shall try this
Great tips!! Thanks.
good work with the chain, I will follow you to see your next videos. Regards my friend
What a great way of doing it :D
great idea keep up the good work
Hi Peter , welcome to our fab community ! You need any help or anything at all give us a message !! Hope you and the family had a great new year ! That panther book I've got it's excellent !! Really great !! Great idea matey ! Another really quick way is staples !! They work a treat !!
If you use slightly shorter pins, the heads will look like the track pins so no need to cut them off. Love the idea of the hold and fold, I'll be using that where I can.
Well done, thumbs up!
I'm struggling to assemble Master Club's T26 tracks which have 0.4mm resin pins (one for ech side of each track). I've ordered some 0.4mm brass rod and hope this will do the trick. Great idea about using the hold n fold - could be the last piece in my particular jigsaw!
Great tip and I like your presentation style so I'm subscribing now. Keep up the great work!
I just got some of these for a Bronco 1/35 Comet tank. I found a goodly number of them didn't need the holes drilling out.
I thought about getting some pins instead of using the supplied resin pins. This solidifies why I should get them. Thanks for moving my decision forward into not only the actual realism but not spending hours cleaning and pinning.
Ever try burnishing fluids?
I assembled friulmodel's track only once but almost without driling. Wire is harder than white metal so, in most of the pieces, it was enough to push the wire hard into the holes to get through.
Amazing how your magnet hold brass pins.
Larry Reavis thanks Larry. 😊
lol! It's magic! :)
cool video. thanks.
did my set this way. Done in no time!!!!!!!
Bill Moore Hi Bill, glad you liked it. So much better than the old way 👌
I used 5/8 inch long. By 1.6 cm. didn't have to do any cutting
Brilliant.
I think everyone over thinks this. I use the supplied wire and a cutter only. I jam the wire through the hole, without cleaning it up, snip flush. Repeat. Super fast, no idea why anyone drills them out. If anything the material in there helps hold the wire.
Sweet thanks
That will do me it will be a great help.
I use bridal & lace pins, nickel-plated steel and 0.5mm in diameter which is closer to what the recommended drill hole is. Did you have any broken track links using the 0.65mm Prym pins?
Genius.
Great video!
Quick question: What nails are you using for fastening/pairing the belts together?
He tells you what pins he is using, watch the video...........
Excellent idea Peter. I have two concerns, which hopefully you can clarify. 1). Do you ever hammer the pin through the other end of the link? 2). After completing the assembly, you place the links in a bath of fluid to turn them dark. Do the pins discolour also?
genius!
pgabrieli thanks buddy, too good not to share with you guys. 😊
now Im sad, just finished the tracks for my Panther, took me fuckin 5 Hours! So all in all: the greatest Method I´ve ever seen
I hope you have tried this out now. 👍🏼
Great tip Peter, do you know if brass and white metal react to one another over time... dissimilar metals offen do.
@Bill Bradford Sorry but I don't understand your reply Bill.
Wow, I used to be afraid of Fruil Tracks; Not anymore!
I'm putting together m18 hellcat tracks just now and there so brittle they would just snap doing this and the sanding is just rediculious! There kinda like same shape as a panzer 4 the 3 track pin holes are not as well protected like Panthers and tigers! One of the track heads was snapped off in the bag there and the 4mm drill bit took the front of a bite hole off another so hopefully there is a couple spare they have throw in the box for issues like this!
Pete, Is the MFA variable speed drill still available for purchase in the UK?
swikil Yes I think so, I got my one from my local hobby store but that has closed down now 😩
nice!
Awesome ! What size pins ? 😀😀😀😀😀
Brill. Thanks mate .
Thinking of using burnishing liquid on the tracks, do you know if this will be a problem on the brass
Different! I didn't have any trouble with the wire: inserted, then backed out a fraction and trimmed. What's the rush? 😁😁
Have you ever done the Crusader tracks? I love Italeri’s kit but the vinyl tracks are nasty
The tracks are quite expensive so would you say they are worth the price? I'm building a AFV club Scimitar and considered using them. Thanks.
Steve Austin they absolutely are
The issue I have is that my 1/35 King Tiger tracks are something like 24mm long but my 0.5mm drill bit isn’t long enough.....I am now going to try this method and just stick the pins in and saves me from drilling out every one
So the BEST metal track sets are from MASTER CLUB. they have alittle more details and they are crisper.Plus I've yet had to drill any holes.as these sets come with super detailed resin pins for both sides.and the great part is no glues needed.yeah ...so far I've put 4 sets together.burshed them .painted /weathered etc.without glue.two pins backed out but that may have been on me for not setting them in enuff.they are about the same $$ as fruils.
So the brass sticks to the magnet???
Do you apply superglue afterwards?
ând the track is even completely straight, with the normal method often you have a slight curvagure in the track
Grwt video however just for your assistance the overhead lighting is affecting your video. Regards Dave. London
Great idea! I wonder if the Germans did it that way??? ;-) lol
your method is fine. just make sure you DO NOT drive the pin all the way through the other end.. and ruin the track
Have to say fantastic method, but to stop them bending, is to put the pin in a bit of wax (candle-Tea light) then "hammer" home....no bent pins!!!
Top banana
Curious what is the mm of them pens
At 3:49 He shows you the pin measurements. - 16mm x 0.65mm
looks like you are in a basement, mate. ever worry about a funnel web spider coming across your work table?
Yep don't forget to breathe!!
I didn't know brass pins were magnetic.
who the hell would not like this? lol
5 people who spent a day assembling 1 set of tracks. Hahahaha
Suddenly Friuls seem a little more worth the expense.
I'm sorry to say this, but the method is flawed - and for one simple reason - the track pinhole is 5mm, so trying to jam a .65mm pin through it just doesn't work - well it didn't in my case.
I tried the method exactly as you suggested and the first link bent, buckled, and broke - because I was trying to force a .65mm pin into a 5mm hole!
After that I bought some 5mm pins, slid them in, put a drop of super glue on and then cut off the excess - no problem.
i can't understand you.....16mm x what??
0.65mm. It's on the lid of the dress pins. And he mentions it at the 3:47 minute mark.
THAT. Is THE most complicated and tedious way of making a simple task of assembling white metal tracks I have ever seen. I had, using the brass provided in the box, both sets of tracks assembled in 30 minutes. By simply cutting all the brass wire to the required length, using a single drill in a pin vice that went the full distance through the track link without punching through the other side, rolling each pin on glass with a steel ruler to get the pin dead straight, then adding a dab of super glue to one end and slinging the track on the model. 30 Minutes. SIMPLE.
K COX what have you build a Panzer 1, fuckin idiot this method is by far the best I've ever seen it took me five hours for both Panther tracks and I worked very fast
No FI. I built the Takom King Tiger. But there are some who are mentally challenged who want to think that a complicated system like yours is best.
30 minutes to build 2 X 88 link tracks?
Just to measure, cut and straighten 176 brass connecting pins would take 30 minutes (assuming each takes on average 10 seconds, which is reasonable).
Simple maths suggests that your claim is dubious.
lol this is a very british/ russian ec down to earth method common sense method every other video on this invloves a drill of some kind and still takes ages ... your method - smash the pins in with with a fucking hammer hahaha
probally not too far off how track pins are inserted in reality if i had to guess tbh