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Very ingenious method for doing those tracks! I'll definitely keep it in mind!

Yep don't forget to breathe!!

Ive NEVER understood the 'value' of fruils?!....Sure, its metal, has weight n' flex...AND pretty $pendy t'boot.... WHERE does one save ANY TIME when ya have to RE-drill 85-90% of each track block so the pins can then fit?! Seems like bad casting/moiulds n' incredibly SLOPPY manufacturing process's/bad quality inspection on Fruils side? Ive ordered dozens of metal track kits from CN's 'R-Model" & 'San-Xin' & never once needed to re-drill track pin holes... Ive ordered ONE Fruil kit 2 or so years back & that was enough (Maultier tracks) They are still languishing in the 'Spare parts bin of diminishing returns'

I think I'll try out this method. One thing tho... They are mild steel pins. Actual Brass is non-magnetic and they would bend much more easier than those you're using. Also. Try to avoid touching friulmodel track links with your bare hands as they contain lead.

Top banana

Freaking BRILLIANT! 25 years of pushing wire through my finger….over! Seriously that is a brilliant method.

Fantastic! Going to try it!

Wow, I mean WOW!!! You've turned the art of tedium into a QUICK, not to mention easy, simple and painless task. Thank you.

Thanks so much for this! I love these tracks but I was losing the will to keep breathing preparing and assembling them... Genius!

Have to say fantastic method, but to stop them bending, is to put the pin in a bit of wax (candle-Tea light) then "hammer" home....no bent pins!!!

Just wished you'd carried on and made more videos Peter. I think they would have been excellent and it would have been nice to see how you make your excellent models and dioramas

I've constructed two sets of Friul and it took hours. I love the technique, the way you explain solutions to possible problems and the fact you shared. Viva the Usher Method :-) Thank you.

Do you apply superglue afterwards?

Very inspiring video and method Peter! I adapted it somewhat, cause many pins got bended. Manually pre-inserting the pins through one side of all tracks, then connecting them, thus pushing through the resistance of just one track, reducing chances of bending. Finally cutting the protruding pins with a Dremel cutter. Great fun, thnx again!

So the BEST metal track sets are from MASTER CLUB. they have alittle more details and they are crisper.Plus I've yet had to drill any holes.as these sets come with super detailed resin pins for both sides.and the great part is no glues needed.yeah ...so far I've put 4 sets together.burshed them .painted /weathered etc.without glue.two pins backed out but that may have been on me for not setting them in enuff.they are about the same $$ as fruils.

Thinking of using burnishing liquid on the tracks, do you know if this will be a problem on the brass

I'm struggling to assemble Master Club's T26 tracks which have 0.4mm resin pins (one for ech side of each track). I've ordered some 0.4mm brass rod and hope this will do the trick. Great idea about using the hold n fold - could be the last piece in my particular jigsaw! Great tip and I like your presentation style so I'm subscribing now. Keep up the great work!

Genius.

Excellent idea Peter. I have two concerns, which hopefully you can clarify. 1). Do you ever hammer the pin through the other end of the link? 2). After completing the assembly, you place the links in a bath of fluid to turn them dark. Do the pins discolour also?

Thank you Peter, a fantastic system that works brilliantly, you have saved me hours of laborious grind.

great vid...thank you for the technique. Good solution to a problem.

Sweet thanks

I'm putting together m18 hellcat tracks just now and there so brittle they would just snap doing this and the sanding is just rediculious! There kinda like same shape as a panzer 4 the 3 track pin holes are not as well protected like Panthers and tigers! One of the track heads was snapped off in the bag there and the 4mm drill bit took the front of a bite hole off another so hopefully there is a couple spare they have throw in the box for issues like this!

I think everyone over thinks this. I use the supplied wire and a cutter only. I jam the wire through the hole, without cleaning it up, snip flush. Repeat. Super fast, no idea why anyone drills them out. If anything the material in there helps hold the wire.

Thanks so much! I’ll be using the Usher Method today!

Thumbs Up! Smart idea Peter!

Curious what is the mm of them pens

Great idea I think that will work on some of the plastic types to I have a etch mate I think it would help a lot just to keep the track parts straight thanks for sharing

If you use slightly shorter pins, the heads will look like the track pins so no need to cut them off. Love the idea of the hold and fold, I'll be using that where I can.

The issue I have is that my 1/35 King Tiger tracks are something like 24mm long but my 0.5mm drill bit isn’t long enough.....I am now going to try this method and just stick the pins in and saves me from drilling out every one

Thank you. Love the metal tracks also. Good tutorial!

Wow, I used to be afraid of Fruil Tracks; Not anymore!

I just got some of these for a Bronco 1/35 Comet tank. I found a goodly number of them didn't need the holes drilling out.

Genius. Great tip.

here in the States they cost like $70 .. not worth it in my opinion... way over priced, would rather just use the god awful tracks included in the model, which.. after adding painting, muddying and rusting.. you will be hard pressed to notice the difference by looking at them..

your method is fine. just make sure you DO NOT drive the pin all the way through the other end.. and ruin the track

I'm sorry to say this, but the method is flawed - and for one simple reason - the track pinhole is 5mm, so trying to jam a .65mm pin through it just doesn't work - well it didn't in my case. I tried the method exactly as you suggested and the first link bent, buckled, and broke - because I was trying to force a .65mm pin into a 5mm hole! After that I bought some 5mm pins, slid them in, put a drop of super glue on and then cut off the excess - no problem.

Thanks, that will save a lot of time, when you do the link tracks. Well Done.

looks like you are in a basement, mate. ever worry about a funnel web spider coming across your work table?

I just used your method last night, it worked perfectly! This is my 1st shot at these tracks for a Tiger 1 and couldn`t imagine drilling each track out! Only thing I did differently was use regular sewing pins, which worked just fine. Thanks so much for posting this method, it`s awesome!

Brilliant.

Great idea. Had not seen it before. Thanks for sharing.

I thought about getting some pins instead of using the supplied resin pins. This solidifies why I should get them. Thanks for moving my decision forward into not only the actual realism but not spending hours cleaning and pinning. Ever try burnishing fluids?

cool video. thanks.

great idea keep up the good work

Have you ever done the Crusader tracks? I love Italeri’s kit but the vinyl tracks are nasty

Great tip Peter, do you know if brass and white metal react to one another over time... dissimilar metals offen do.

So the brass sticks to the magnet???

Suddenly Friuls seem a little more worth the expense.

i invented this