This is just a thought,, measure both rear tires, at rest on a flat surface. Then try to measure both at full balloon. If either is taller by more than a couple of MM's, then the car is gonna juke and jive. Try truing the rears at full balloon. Also, if you make two hits and the car gets out of control in the same direction, try swapping side for side to see if it helps.. Great videos!!!
Thanks for the support! I really like the idea of comparing the tires normally and at speed. I'm not sure how I could get an accurate measurement while the wheels are spinning but it could be something to help with fine tuning to get a little more control. 👍
Be careful using a traction compound on a dusty area. The dust will be picked up and will stick to the tire making it more slippery. Just my thoughts. Keep the videos coming.
Watch the video of Jack Cecil adjusting a Losi Camaro suspension, he never tells you what he's done but you can figure it out by watching. Car goes straight, lots of weight transfer, even uses the wheelie bar but most important the tires never left the ground so you have steering control at all times if you need it. Your cars awesome and it time you'll bring a win home.
Thanks!! I've learned a lot about suspension tuning throughout my time with this car. Pretty happy with my current setup, just need to get it launching hard.
My first thought is a fire change. I wonder if loosening the slipper clutch slightly would lessen the (hit) to the tires so maybe it can find more traction...also, great video.
Spray wd-40 on your tires. Let sit for about 3 minutes, then use a dry wash cloth to wipe it up. Once you do your burnout it will help your tires get sticky and be able to get better traction on launch
What motor are you running? Have you tried just running the car straight down the track under medium power? To see if steering servo is making the car go straight? Try increasing the speed see where the problem exists then? You can try turning the speed of your steering servo down so it's not that fast. If your radio has a throttle curve you could experiment with that. Cheers
I'm running a Reedy 7t motor. The car does run straight when driving normally. I've turned down the steering dual rate and it's helped a bunch. I've been playing around with the different settings in the castle mamba x and the throttle curve is one of them.
Adjust your steering put some weight on the front end maybe a couple ounces . I have a couple 8th scale on road cars I drag those super quick I put 22 pinyon and 46 tooth spur they go about 70 mph I.want to take a speedometer to them but I havnt got around to it.
Watch when you are explaining the weight transfer and wheelie bar. Tops of the tires are pulling in. So when you launch your not using all of your rear tires just the inside edge. @around 836 ish
I actually noticed this exact thing recently and did some tuning so that when the suspension compresses the entire tire is contacting the ground. That'll be covered in an upcoming video
what oil you are using in the rear shocks ? you can try to change to a thicker one or stiffen the rear springs to help push the tire in the pavement to get more traction. the car is leaving straighter than be fore but still needs a little bid of work,you need to leave the line at a 100% throttle and stay at a 100% as soon as you lift to correct the other guy in the line can get in front of you.
@@FullThrottleRC yes if you can find 20wt try it it will help to push the tire in the pavement and when it go in it will take more to come out and that will also help with traction.
@@FullThrottleRC try it and try also take the shocks from the front and put some tie rod ends in their place,look for the weight machine and put the car on it and see how the weight is distributed on all the 4 tires. That will help you balance the car more so it will leave straight.
@@jotech1000 I believe the street eliminator class here requires front suspension so I can't do that. I'll definitely try out the stiffer rear suspension
Balance the car first. Put your ESC in the center, in front of rear diff, over battery. Add weight in front of your front bumper, with battery moved forward. If you don't have the 130$ for a balancer, take it to your local shop, and weigh each corner, side, and front to back. Put a shock extender on rear shock tower so that your shocks in rear are vertical. Turn the gain down on your steering servo, and the car will stop digging one tire in and going sideways. Reduce tension on slipper until car launches without jumping left or right. Go to 20 million in diff to lock wheels together. This will prevent one tire over rotating on launch, and pushing you the other way. After all that, go 50 weight in shocks up front, and 80 in rear. She will go straight, fast. I'm around 80 on 2s in a dr10, and just got into drag. Occasionally, I'll drift left on launch, but with gain down, I keep my fingers on the wheel slightly, and steer around it. Good vid kid, and good luck.
Thanks for all the tips! I've actually done most of the things you mentioned already in some of my other videos, this is one of my early drag racing videos before I started trying all those things.
Looks like u might have to much negative camber in the rear.I would try just 1/4 degree of negative to 0 degree.Straight up and down.In the front try about 1 to 2 degree of negative camber.That should help take the twitchy out of the car.Looks like your heading in the right direction👍🏼
Haha been binge watching your builds and been wondering if you had problems keeping her on all fours because I could tell all your weight was in the back while you were building. One thing I’d say is you need to stiffin that suspension in the rear up a lot. Honestly since it’s not a car and no ones riding in it I’d make it fixed in the back with no play at all. Literally just diff axle and tire with just supports struts. Never messed with rc but been drag racing for 15 years. But idk if those shocks have fluid or air but not having the suspension in the might allow you to add some more weight to the front. Something a few pounds going 40+ you really want that front end hugging that cement
It definitely needs the soft suspension in the rear. I've tried stiffening it up and it just spins. The car uses the suspension to transfer the weight to the rear tires. I may experiment with some weight up front one day but with the current electronics I don't think it needs it.
FullThrottleRC hell yeah🤘 definitely a bad ass rc car though. Definitely seems a lot harder keeping an rc car straight compared to a real street car. In a car you can pedal till she hooks. In that rc you couldn’t go off the feel but only adjust as fast as your eyes can see. Kind of like top fuel in a way, only got one chance to keep her straight and wide open. Extremely impressive though never even thought these were a thing.
Yes, No Prep is referring to the track, although the cars are called No Prep cars because they are build specifically for No Prep. I decided completely against any traction compound or tire softeners since making this video, and just use a burnout to warm the tires with pretty good results.
Move all your B4 components over to an SC10 chassis to get the longer wheelbase for Street Eliminator and add SC10 body mounts and you'll be good to go. I run an SC10 and it hauls ass. ruclips.net/video/NtQgIXAvnbc/видео.html
I think theres a lot of work That goes into msking these things go fast, stick to the ground and stay in a straight line. Trial and error and practice.
Rodrick Linder not sure reducing MAH matters. That’s like saying go from a 50 gallon gas tank to a 20 gallon gas tank makes a car go slower. That’s only reducing the “fuel” capacity. I think what you mean, would be reducing the C rating...which is how fast you can “burn fuel” or in this case how fast you can discharge the battery.
What do you think makes the car more stable at high speeds with stiffer suspension? I've gotten a lot of opinions, and have a few of my own, and just want to know the reasons behind other's opinions.
The heavy shock oil helps the car from swaying and gives it a slower rebound that doesn’t upset the car I have tried soft suspension similar to the suspension your running and I personally think the heavyweight oil is the way to go not to mention it also guides the car straight in a way
@@cpthunterz4077 OK. I've been thinking about getting a set but I really like the look of the beadlock. Might have to sacrifice for better performance hahaha
I’m starting a scratch build but I’m going to use a solid rear end and much shorter coil overs..4link rear and probably a dual brushless direct driven to the axle.im waiting on the body to arrive to see if I can use the 2.8 street slicks on my Avenge MT XLR or if they will be too tall.ordering traxxas funny car ft wheels
1. a rear stabilizer is required, 2. Gyro for steering, 3. thicker oil inhibitors, 4.Nagyobb spring preload for rear springs, 5. To avoid raising the wheel, move the wheel holder closer to the ground to increase traction and stability of the front wheel. 6. Use adhesive spray instead of rubber heating. With these changes you can achieve a good 50% improvement.
Not sure what you mean by a rear stabilizer, if you are talking about a sway bar, the car already has one. Also gyros are not allowed for street eliminator drag racing. This is also a no prep car so I will not be using and sprays for traction.
@@FullThrottleRC Sway Bar which helps synchronize the right and left swing arms, thus improving the page balance. And the Wheelie bar closer to the ground, increasing the grip of the front wheel. Also, the tighter differential reduces the lateral eruption. Unfortunately I do not know the use of Sway bar is allowed in this street race. sorry i not corekt english
I haven't used any Traxxas stuff other than the Funny Car and DTS-1 in a while. Is that the traction control they use? If so, that takes all the fun out of it😀
@@FullThrottleRC you can adjust how invasive it is I usually set mine to 20% I have been driving for 8 years sure its cheating but its really nice and you save money on parts cause you cash less
Thats the rc gods for ya. "Ohh did you replace the non broken front arms" SNAP. lol
🤣🤣🤣
This is just a thought,, measure both rear tires, at rest on a flat surface. Then try to measure both at full balloon. If either is taller by more than a couple of MM's, then the car is gonna juke and jive. Try truing the rears at full balloon. Also, if you make two hits and the car gets out of control in the same direction, try swapping side for side to see if it helps.. Great videos!!!
Thanks for the support! I really like the idea of comparing the tires normally and at speed. I'm not sure how I could get an accurate measurement while the wheels are spinning but it could be something to help with fine tuning to get a little more control. 👍
This is great! Glad to see someone else using a B5m for a street eliminator car
It's a great starting point. Unfortunately the SC5M chassis is starting to be hard to find.
Thanks for doing something like this
Thanks for the support!
FYI
The flat arms and gull wing arms are a tuning option and ACTUALLY require different front tower
Thanks I did not know that. I don't seem to be having a problem with it though.
Be careful using a traction compound on a dusty area. The dust will be picked up and will stick to the tire making it more slippery. Just my thoughts. Keep the videos coming.
Absolutely. That's one of the reasons I'm hesitant. Thanks for the suggestions!
Watch the video of Jack Cecil adjusting a Losi Camaro suspension, he never tells you what he's done but you can figure it out by watching. Car goes straight, lots of weight transfer, even uses the wheelie bar but most important the tires never left the ground so you have steering control at all times if you need it. Your cars awesome and it time you'll bring a win home.
Thanks!! I've learned a lot about suspension tuning throughout my time with this car. Pretty happy with my current setup, just need to get it launching hard.
Nice job man beautiful car
Thank you!
My first thought is a fire change. I wonder if loosening the slipper clutch slightly would lessen the (hit) to the tires so maybe it can find more traction...also, great video.
Thank you!! I've been playing around with some different tuning options and I think I just about have it where I want it.
Ability to move weight can do great things. I have a B5 M with the x factory carbon fiber chassis.
Spray wd-40 on your tires. Let sit for about 3 minutes, then use a dry wash cloth to wipe it up. Once you do your burnout it will help your tires get sticky and be able to get better traction on launch
I've read about wd40 but it seems like that would be counterintuitive. Have you actually tried this before?
@@FullThrottleRC yes I have and it never failed me
@@Naughty_Clout I'll have to try it. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@FullThrottleRC no problem!
What motor are you running? Have you tried just running the car straight down the track under medium power? To see if steering servo is making the car go straight? Try increasing the speed see where the problem exists then? You can try turning the speed of your steering servo down so it's not that fast. If your radio has a throttle curve you could experiment with that. Cheers
I'm running a Reedy 7t motor. The car does run straight when driving normally. I've turned down the steering dual rate and it's helped a bunch. I've been playing around with the different settings in the castle mamba x and the throttle curve is one of them.
@@FullThrottleRC I have a b5m I want to convert to drag racing. It has gear transmission in it for carpet buggy racing. What body are you using?
@@Adventurekm Protoform C7 corvette in this video. I have a few bodies though
@@FullThrottleRC would like to get a Camaro drag body
@@Adventurekm me too
Try slowing your steering down on your radio. You might not turn as fast when you're trying to keep it straight
I do have the end points turned way down but maybe I'll try turning down the dual rate. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@FullThrottleRC D/R is what you need to turn down
@@mcattee1983 yep that's what I'll try!
Adjust your steering put some weight on the front end maybe a couple ounces . I have a couple 8th scale on road cars I drag those super quick I put 22 pinyon and 46 tooth spur they go about 70 mph I.want to take a speedometer to them but I havnt got around to it.
Watch when you are explaining the weight transfer and wheelie bar. Tops of the tires are pulling in. So when you launch your not using all of your rear tires just the inside edge. @around 836 ish
I actually noticed this exact thing recently and did some tuning so that when the suspension compresses the entire tire is contacting the ground. That'll be covered in an upcoming video
You need to adjust your wheelie bar to compensate for the extra height due to the tires ballooning.
what oil you are using in the rear shocks ? you can try to change to a thicker one or stiffen the rear springs to help push the tire in the pavement to get more traction.
the car is leaving straighter than be fore but still needs a little bid of work,you need to leave the line at a 100% throttle and stay at a 100% as soon as you lift to correct the other guy in the line can get in front of you.
Im running 15wt oil in the rear I believe. I'll definitely try stiffening the suspension next. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@FullThrottleRC yes if you can find 20wt try it it will help to push the tire in the pavement and when it go in it will take more to come out and that will also help with traction.
@@jotech1000 I think I have some 30wt. I may try that.
@@FullThrottleRC try it and try also take the shocks from the front and put some tie rod ends in their place,look for the weight machine and put the car on it and see how the weight is distributed on all the 4 tires.
That will help you balance the car more so it will leave straight.
@@jotech1000 I believe the street eliminator class here requires front suspension so I can't do that. I'll definitely try out the stiffer rear suspension
Another thing you could try is running sway bars.
I actually have a sway bar in the rear and am experimenting with different stiffnesses
👍awesome, subbed
Thank you!!
Balance the car first. Put your ESC in the center, in front of rear diff, over battery. Add weight in front of your front bumper, with battery moved forward. If you don't have the 130$ for a balancer, take it to your local shop, and weigh each corner, side, and front to back. Put a shock extender on rear shock tower so that your shocks in rear are vertical. Turn the gain down on your steering servo, and the car will stop digging one tire in and going sideways. Reduce tension on slipper until car launches without jumping left or right. Go to 20 million in diff to lock wheels together. This will prevent one tire over rotating on launch, and pushing you the other way. After all that, go 50 weight in shocks up front, and 80 in rear. She will go straight, fast. I'm around 80 on 2s in a dr10, and just got into drag. Occasionally, I'll drift left on launch, but with gain down, I keep my fingers on the wheel slightly, and steer around it. Good vid kid, and good luck.
Thanks for all the tips! I've actually done most of the things you mentioned already in some of my other videos, this is one of my early drag racing videos before I started trying all those things.
@@FullThrottleRC no worries, just trying to help.
Bad news is .... you can’t stop hitting the curb !!! Lmao
😂😂😂
Looks like u might have to much negative camber in the rear.I would try just 1/4 degree of negative to 0 degree.Straight up and down.In the front try about 1 to 2 degree of negative camber.That should help take the twitchy out of the car.Looks like your heading in the right direction👍🏼
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm trying to get the rear camber as close to zero as possible.
Quick question do you airbrush your body's? If so what paint do you use? Thanks
Yep I airbrush all of my bodies now. I've been using proline paints. Really enjoy using them. Best RC airbrush paint I've tried so far.
@@FullThrottleRC Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it.
What is the name of your headlocks on rear. Very good videos you do
I believe at the time of this video I was still running the proline Titus beadlock. I'm currently running the Split Six beadlock
@@FullThrottleRC Thank You. You not only fast with the you answer fast. Best of luck this season 👍🏾
Haha been binge watching your builds and been wondering if you had problems keeping her on all fours because I could tell all your weight was in the back while you were building. One thing I’d say is you need to stiffin that suspension in the rear up a lot. Honestly since it’s not a car and no ones riding in it I’d make it fixed in the back with no play at all. Literally just diff axle and tire with just supports struts. Never messed with rc but been drag racing for 15 years. But idk if those shocks have fluid or air but not having the suspension in the might allow you to add some more weight to the front. Something a few pounds going 40+ you really want that front end hugging that cement
It definitely needs the soft suspension in the rear. I've tried stiffening it up and it just spins. The car uses the suspension to transfer the weight to the rear tires. I may experiment with some weight up front one day but with the current electronics I don't think it needs it.
FullThrottleRC hell yeah🤘 definitely a bad ass rc car though. Definitely seems a lot harder keeping an rc car straight compared to a real street car. In a car you can pedal till she hooks. In that rc you couldn’t go off the feel but only adjust as fast as your eyes can see. Kind of like top fuel in a way, only got one chance to keep her straight and wide open. Extremely impressive though never even thought these were a thing.
@@tannercox4537 thanks!
"No Prep" refers to the track not your car. But you must remove any compound before you launch. Most use an old towel when warming the tires.
Yes, No Prep is referring to the track, although the cars are called No Prep cars because they are build specifically for No Prep. I decided completely against any traction compound or tire softeners since making this video, and just use a burnout to warm the tires with pretty good results.
Slow down or turn down the end points of your steering servo
I turned down the dual rate 👍
Putting spacers inside the front shocks, under the piston will lower your ride height.
Thanks for the tip.
I can see the speed control what motor are u running?
Trinity drag Master 3.5t
Do you have a locker in the differential?
Yes the diff is locked.
I could be wrong but the battery carbon deck looks like Raw Speed
I honestly have no idea hahaha. I bought the car second hand and it came with it!
What wheels are these? Are they headlocks?
The wheels in this video were proline Titus 2.2 beadlocks. I now run proline Split Six beadlocks.
Does the car have the slipper in it, or locked out. Seems you could use it for straight launch
It does still run a slipper. I've been tweaking with the suspension and shifting weight around and it leaves pretty good now
Wonder if I could do this with my old B4.
I definitely think it's possible. The B4 and B5 aren't much different. This was a b5m but the main difference is the rear vs mid motor set up.
You can but you need the Sc10 plastic tub chassis the Sc10 and the B4 line are the same chassis Sc is longer💪🏻😎💪🏻
Move all your B4 components over to an SC10 chassis to get the longer wheelbase for Street Eliminator and add SC10 body mounts and you'll be good to go. I run an SC10 and it hauls ass. ruclips.net/video/NtQgIXAvnbc/видео.html
I think theres a lot of work That goes into msking these things go fast, stick to the ground and stay in a straight line. Trial and error and practice.
Oh yea definitely. It's pretty fun though
Cool
Try going down on mah of the battery. That will give less puch.
Hmm never thought about that. I've been using the castle b link to tune the launch.
Rodrick Linder not sure reducing MAH matters. That’s like saying go from a 50 gallon gas tank to a 20 gallon gas tank makes a car go slower. That’s only reducing the “fuel” capacity. I think what you mean, would be reducing the C rating...which is how fast you can “burn fuel” or in this case how fast you can discharge the battery.
Sounds like I try that on my project. I appreciate your reply. My car is setup like yours.And the info you give greatly appreciated.
Get rid of those tires and go stiffer on the rear end around a thousand weight oil it will help stabilize your car at high speeds
What do you think makes the car more stable at high speeds with stiffer suspension? I've gotten a lot of opinions, and have a few of my own, and just want to know the reasons behind other's opinions.
The heavy shock oil helps the car from swaying and gives it a slower rebound that doesn’t upset the car
I have tried soft suspension similar to the suspension your running and I personally think the heavyweight oil is the way to go not to mention it also guides the car straight in a way
What compound tires are you using?
In this video I'm using the clay jconcepts smoothies in their clay compound. I've also tried prolines soft compound but had a lot more ballooning
@@FullThrottleRC I use jconcepts green soft compound and theres ballooning but it goes straight
@@cpthunterz4077 the smoothies tires or the drag specific tires?
@@FullThrottleRC specific drag tire the hottie ones
@@cpthunterz4077 OK. I've been thinking about getting a set but I really like the look of the beadlock. Might have to sacrifice for better performance hahaha
Is that the shape ways mount and rc racing innovations wheelie bar?
Yep!
Losi has a avc would work wonders on a drag setup check out losi active vehicle control
That's basically traction control though which takes the fun out of it 😂
Fun for 2wd off road, most racing organization's do not allow the use of AVC or Gyros in competition
Are diff locked
Yep, the diff is locked
Put some wd40 on your tires let it sit 30 minutes wipe off excess makes them really sticky.
I may try that on an old set of tires
What chassis is this?
Associated SC5m with B5m arms, axles, and turnbuckles.
I’m starting a scratch build but I’m going to use a solid rear end and much shorter coil overs..4link rear and probably a dual brushless direct driven to the axle.im waiting on the body to arrive to see if I can use the 2.8 street slicks on my Avenge MT XLR or if they will be too tall.ordering traxxas funny car ft wheels
@@HoosierDaddy145 Sounds like an insane build. Good luck!
It's called over correction
What web sight can i buy one of these car
These cars can't really be bought off the shelf like this. Its a custom build from a Team Associated B5m
what kind of car is that
Team Associated B5m with a SC5m chassis
@@FullThrottleRC thank you cheerio
@@FullThrottleRC seen the build video cool stuff
1. a rear stabilizer is required,
2. Gyro for steering,
3. thicker oil inhibitors,
4.Nagyobb spring preload for rear springs,
5. To avoid raising the wheel, move the wheel holder closer to the ground to increase traction and stability of the front wheel.
6. Use adhesive spray instead of rubber heating.
With these changes you can achieve a good 50% improvement.
Not sure what you mean by a rear stabilizer, if you are talking about a sway bar, the car already has one. Also gyros are not allowed for street eliminator drag racing. This is also a no prep car so I will not be using and sprays for traction.
@@FullThrottleRC
Sway Bar which helps synchronize the right and left swing arms,
thus improving the page balance.
And the Wheelie bar closer to the ground, increasing the grip of the front wheel.
Also, the tighter differential reduces the lateral eruption.
Unfortunately I do not know the use of Sway bar is allowed in this street race.
sorry i not corekt english
Try traxxas TSM thing
I haven't used any Traxxas stuff other than the Funny Car and DTS-1 in a while. Is that the traction control they use? If so, that takes all the fun out of it😀
@@FullThrottleRC you can adjust how invasive it is I usually set mine to 20% I have been driving for 8 years sure its cheating but its really nice and you save money on parts cause you cash less
@@FullThrottleRC give it a try it won't hurt
Don’t try and correct it let of the gas and correct it
You know what they say... When in doubt, throttle out😂😂
WAAAYYY too much wiring. 6oz in extra wiring.
Where do you recommend I remove some wiring without having wires passing all over each other? I'm all about trying to shed some weight.
Show down your streeing
I got the same advice from a few people. I turned down the dual rate on the steering channel and it helped a lot. Thanks!
By God man turn down the steering rate
Hahaha already done!
wanna build me one
You definitely should! They are fun to build and drive!