Clark - I've been using the Gen 3 BankManager on my catamaran sailboat for 8 months and it's working perfectly. I'm adding this comment to let anyone considering getting one that I'm very happy with mine. FYI, the installation on my boat consists of four 7 year old AGM 8D lead batteries and a single new VoltGo 200 amp hour lithium. I charge via 1380 watts of solar with occasional help from the Yanmar engine alternators. The installation was relatively straightforward. We're living on the boat (currently in the Bahamas) and find that on a daily basis the single lithium battery is now doing most all the work, typically getting full each day and dropping down to about 40% during the night. Congratulations on designing and building such a useful device!
I think I like the new version but I also realize I would be in way over my head trying to use the new features. I do really, really like the cold weather cut off, that opens up a whole new world of batteries for me. That said, even at 69 years young I can still learn new things. Keep the good stuff coming Clark.
Congratulations on the continued development! I have a Bank Manager (version 2.3). Bench tested at home and installed recently on boat. I really like the concept and the unit itself. In the future I hope to install an additional, larger, Lifepo4 Battery using another Bank Manager as you mention in the video. I don't claim to understand the benefits of all the new features yet, but having just recently installed a unit on my boat, these are the new features that really stand out to me so far personally: *Larger display: Great ,nice improvement. *The Internal power button: Great. Will make install cleaner/easier *Display turns off: Great. *Display dims: Great. *Faster microprocessor: Good, facilitates the new features *Bluetooth radio: Excellent (really looking forward to seeing apps) *Remote wire connections via network cable: Excellent!!!. Will make install cleaner/easier. *Surface mount with connections in rear to remote connector: Excellent as well. *Flush mount faceplate: Excellent Color change: Understand it. It sounds silly but personally I like the white. It blends in better for my install. I know, silly. Also I think I would miss the blue led hue given off at night from the unit. Oh and the low temperature monitoring and cut off. Excellent Overall personal rating on the new version: Excellent. Again congratulations on the new version
Very pleased repeat customer. Just purchased a BBMS Gen 3 for a solar home (48vdc). This was primarily based on my experience this summer with a BBMS Gen 2.3 that I bench tested and then installed on my boat (12v) in the spring. The unit on the boat worked out really well for me. I left comments as I progressed on "Upgrade to Lithium - the Smarter, Cheaper Way (BankManager)" video but I do not know how to include a link. I learned a lot doing the boat install. I really like the new generation and the remote terminals. For me the Gen 3 'Shutdown Temperature' feature is also a great addition. Looking forward to installing this second unit.
Future proofing 👏! Thank you for incorporating all the early adopter feedback 🙌 I am one of your Gen3 pre orders and very excited to 🛠️incorporate it into our 🚐 class b RV over the next few months!
@@Clarks-Adventure I've developed some boat automation and security software that can control an alarm, lights, refrigeration, battery monitoring, bilges, temps, etc for boats. I'm looking to creating a module to include data from the new Bank Manager! I'd love to chat and give you a demo sometime!
Nice features on the upgraded v3. Man u need to get this installed, I feel like such a slacker. I bought the V1 and still haven't installed it, I think I'm going to sell it to my dock neighbor and get 2 V3's now!
I have a video coming about me putting it in my camper. It shows all the wiring then I go through the full menu describing each setting. I think you might like that one
Yes. It can be a thin plate starter battery. It's there mostly to keep various charge controllers sane when the BankManager removes the li after it's fully charged
So let me see if I've got this right. I wire my eternally regulated 100 amp alternator, and my solar charge controller to my house bank load center. Then run the power source for my load center to my AGM battery bank, and from the AGM battery bank I run a parallel hook up to my lithium house bank through the solenoid that is controled by your Bank manager. In addition i would run a Circuit from the AGM bank through a 12V to 12V B to B charger to keep my start battery charged? Sounds simple. Im thinking your Bank Manager is the answer to my needs. Now to decide which version is best for my needs. I sure likethe ideal of a bluetooth monitor of the Bank Manager on my phone, 😁
Yep, that would be a working system. Personally I wouldn't use the dc-dc just an VSR (voltage sensitive relay (see video)) As far as what one to buy that's up to you. I've become a big fan of the "load" pin on the Gen3 And Bluetooth certainly has its advantages.
Nice job. I have a totally different question to run by you. When starting my twin engine Searay, at idle the voltage gages will read 13.5, when I increase the rpm the gages will peg to 18(max) and will stay there even if I come back to idle. Any ideas, because I am lost. Thanks for any imput.
That's your batteries being destroyed due to overcharge because you have a bad voltage regulator. Long story. Your discharged batteries take all your engines can produce at idle and hold the voltage in check. Then high rpm charges them.. and then overcharges them. Then the few amps at idle can hold them up on dangerous territory for batteries. Honestly they will die soon at 18v. Fix it
@TheRacdoc I think you need local help. Get a friend to help and watch what he does. But from literally hundreds of miles away. Start only one engine at a time. Figure which one causes the issue. Then just change the regulator. But someone knowledgeable in that engine and local would be valuable to you just now.
It's somewhat adjustable. Factory settings comes out to 13.3 or just below. It tends to climb of its own accord and the BankManager might turn that on and off like 3 times before it settles
You mention that this device works well with a joint lithium (house) + start (lead acid) system. Does one need to remove the existing automatic (or even manual) battery combiner?
I have a question regarding your BBMS. If the lead acid in the mixed system is the starting battery, what needs to happen with the batteries when the engine is cranking? I'm guessing the lithium needs to be temporarily disconnected from the system but when is it safe to reconnect the lithium if the starter battery voltage is now below that of the lithium?
You can set a max discharge amps limit on the BankManager. If for whatever reason the amp draw exceeds this it disconnects the li. Be it short circuit or engine start. Once the engine starts and the alternator starts charging the lead voltage will go back up. Once it reaches the li voltage the BankManager will reconnect. Basically if too much current is asked from the li during starting the li will be disconnected for just seconds.
Planning my install but not sure what do with the battery sensors that are on each of our 6 AGM’s that tie into our Schieber monitor/control system. Can I put them on the Lithium and just reprogram the Schieber for the new bank ah capacity?
Either that or put them after your lead and Li wires come together towards your panel to send total system current. I'd do that and use the BankManager current sensor to know what's going on with just the li. Just make sure your BankManager GND wire goes to the li side of that shunt
Hi Clark I have been watching you and Emily for a long time. Love your videos I was wondering if they make a little battery to power a duel fuel generator. What brand would you recommend that will give me the longest life span? I have the original little battery still and the generator is about 5 years old. I have a solar panel trickle charger hooked to the battery and so far it has kept the battery up and it starts good. Just wondering if you would know a brand that you know is better than the Chinese battery it comes with from the factory. The generator is a Pulsar Model G12KBN. Thanks, Rob
Hi Rob, Usually it's better to use lead batteries as starter batteries. I don't have any real favorites. Stay away from cheap Walmart but there are a lot of good ones.
Just ordered the "48V" solenoid for my BM2 but the listing was "36 & 48" with no option for choosing the "48V". Should I assume it works reliably for Both 36volt and 48 volt systems?? I will be using it in a 48 volt system. Could you please add a link for "Want to up grade your BM2? Choose the following upgrades: ? (not all of us are programers or engineers....)
This offering is the correct device for 36 and 48v systems. I see your order, you ordered the right contactor. As to your second point. I don't understand what you are asking for.
Great video!! Question please I have a small motorhome my starting battery is separate from my house lead batteries x4, thinking to get some lithium batteries, can you unit use for just LI batteries or should I keep some lead too? I like to keep the starting battery separate, what do you suggest?
You need to keep some lead. Usually just one starter type does the trick. This video will help you understand how to segregate your engine starter. ruclips.net/video/Xp6ssk4Guuc/видео.html
I do this on a 39' RV, I have 4-6v lead and 4-100ah Li batteries and two-12v starter (chassis) batteries. I wanted to keep the lead because they are the back-up batteries if I somehow kill the chassis batteries. I made the whole system removable and can pull it out without tools in less than 5 min. I used a big Anderson connector to connect the "add-on" lithium system to my coach batteries. I don't plan on removing them, but my RV is a 2023 and still under warranty, so if I needed warranty work, I wanted to be able to remove them.
@@Cooter91208 I tell people about your setup all the time. Still liking the BankManager? I have a gen3 now with Bluetooth and a few other new features.
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, works perfect for me. I'm basically a weekend boon docker, so being able to leave home with all that energy stored is great. Although it might seem complex, the wiring to the coach is as easy has using jumper cables. When I was first looking at switching to Li, there was a lot of things to be concerned about and the RV's wiring was quite the snake pit, this made it easy and I have no concerns. When I have described it to some of my friends with RVs, I basically tell them it's like using a power bank for a cellphone. The other nice thing is that you don't have to use it. You can simple push the dial button and it will keep the Li disconnected. With my setup, I'm able to camp over 4 days parked in the shade (limited solar) with the refer and all the other systems running constantly on the inverter without having to use the generator. After 4 days, my Li was showing 22% charged and my lead were full. Once you understand how this thing works, you'll understand that your lead will basically always be perfectly charged if the BM has you connected to the lithium. I have seen some people are skeptical that's just because it's too simple. Good job!
Good to hear When I redid the manual for gen3 I tried to simplify the battery connection concept. Same finished product of course but now I say, build a lead system. Then put the new li in parallel with the BankManager in the positive cable. Done!
Can you use a winch 12v 500a contactor that has both + and - shut off? (common on amazon for WARN automotive winches). Advisable or should I stay away? Also how does the BankManager work with high current draw sources (electric winch, anchor windlass, maybe a bow thruster in the future...) Does it turn on the lithium during those short bursts of high current draw/voltage drop and then turn it off when it is no longer used? Thanks!! T.
Any contactor you choose needs to be low side signaled (the BankManager switches the negative side of the coil) and of course shouldn't burn much power through it's coil. When you use a big load like a bow thruster or a winch with this set up, there is a voltage slump when a relatively high load is asked for. If this slump takes the system below 12.8v the lead comes in to help. This is good as lead is better at these big short loads. You may set a maximum li current in the BankManager menu. If this is passes the BankManager will disconnect the LI.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks for the clarification. I had an opposite scenario in mind. ie daytime, Li is full and disconnected. Bow thrusters are used and voltage drop occurs. Will Li get pulled in to help or should not be called upon and have Fe handle it. Concern there is Fe drops to below Li then manual connection will trigger a burst of current from Li to Fe afterwards...
Ok I see. After the li is all charged up and disconnected any system side voltage drop will bring in the li. It will do its part be it your winch or just the fridge coming on. If the charge source can't keep up the li is there to do its job Things work best in a hybrid system if you set the charger float to 13.3v. Then the li stays connected as soon as the lead finishes its charge cycle.
I tested it with a 25 foot Ethernet cable. It worked fine. The Gen 3 has voltage calibration for Li and Pb. This is there to account for resistance in long cables.
I ordered the Gen 3& contactor, received payment confirmation from PayPal, but was never asked for shipping information nor have I received any other confirmation of order. ???
Clark, i think you are nuts. Which is how innovation gets done. 3 form factors, all the optionality... Whew, fantastic customer focus. You should mask & spray paint a ruined case or 3 so as to recommend a paint brand for those who want white, silver, gold, or whatever custom color, seems there are always 2nd's on cases when mfg'rg in small batches, maybe good for a quickie vid, and might be a good project for somebody who can't live with a yellowing G2 case
Thanks. There is a guy who installs professionally. He always spray paints the white cases black. For the boards I developed a way to have one board do both jobs. My assemblers just break the board on v groves for the split cases. Took weeks to get that right but worth it
I am so happy I found your channel! I have just purchased a twin engine boat with 10 not too good led batteries and I am considering redoing everything from scratch with a mix of led and lithium. The boat has two KAD44 diesel engines that require quite a lot of power to start so I am thinking maybe 2 start AGM batteries per engine (or one very big AGM starter battery per engine) and then as much lithium as I can fit in the boat (and afford). Does this sound like a reasonable configuration and how many bank managers would I need for this? // Johan
Thanks Johan, Welcome. Just the one BankManager unless you need to split your Li into multiple banks. Yes that seems reasonable. I just wrote this answer for someone else but it might interest you. ________________ You can set a max discharge amps limit on the BankManager. If for whatever reason the amp draw exceeds this it disconnects the li. Be it short circuit or engine start. Once the engine starts and the alternator starts charging the lead voltage will go back up. Once it reaches the li voltage the BankManager will reconnect. Basically if too much current is asked from the li during starting the li will be disconnected for just seconds.
@@Clarks-AdventureThanks for responding. Maybe I need to think this through a bit more. I never want power to be drawn from the engine starter batteries except when cranking. I cannot ever risk getting to such low voltage that I cannot start the engines. At the same time I want the lithium batteries to keep the lead batteries fully charged and I want all batteries to be charged by the engines - and the shore power battery charger when we have shore power. Is this type of logic/setup possible?
Hi Clark this is Gary on Moonlight lady we are presently in looper on and have a problem with our bank manager generation too. What acid dropped to 10 V and the lithium never kicked in. How should I troubleshoot this to resolve the problem. Thank you very much
Gary on Moonlight lady here had a problem with the bank manager and we resolved it, operator error that’s on me I still think it’s the final system on the market I don’t think you’ll ever find anything better thanks again park we sure appreciate it
Knowing I may be going into the cold, I will have to learn of the battery heater capabilities for the LiFePO4 batteries. You don't have a battery box design for that do you?
@@Clarks-Adventure getting an estimate on a Bell Marine air-cooled electric motor with regeneration and accessories for my second smaller sailboat. That one is here so I can work on it.
This is essentially an (over-priced) but simple programable switch, that connects (and disconnects) the two battery chemistries together in parallel. This will invalidate your battery warranty and shorten your battery life. Dont do it! Buy a proper dc to dc converter from a reputable manufacturer and save your self a lot of grief.
Stephen, What is your agenda here? You keep publishing the same opinion in many places. Do you have some direct hatred? I again suggest you read Conrad's article linked to the bottom of this page www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms as a start of your research on how LiFePO4 needs to be charged. Low current overcharge is proven to shorten the life of li batteries. There are over 600 happy users of this "simple switch" as you call it.
![How Does Boat REFRIGERATION (& A/C) Work? [Capable Cruising Guides]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jTKT3w-6Bl0/mqdefault.jpg)
Clark - I've been using the Gen 3 BankManager on my catamaran sailboat for 8 months and it's working perfectly. I'm adding this comment to let anyone considering getting one that I'm very happy with mine. FYI, the installation on my boat consists of four 7 year old AGM 8D lead batteries and a single new VoltGo 200 amp hour lithium. I charge via 1380 watts of solar with occasional help from the Yanmar engine alternators. The installation was relatively straightforward. We're living on the boat (currently in the Bahamas) and find that on a daily basis the single lithium battery is now doing most all the work, typically getting full each day and dropping down to about 40% during the night. Congratulations on designing and building such a useful device!
I think I like the new version but I also realize I would be in way over my head trying to use the new features. I do really, really like the cold weather cut off, that opens up a whole new world of batteries for me. That said, even at 69 years young I can still learn new things. Keep the good stuff coming Clark.
Congratulations on the third version! Hopefully we will need one soon. Keep up the great work. Thank you for your effort
Very impressive, Clark. Thank you for the continued BMS development!
Congratulations on the continued development!
I have a Bank Manager (version 2.3). Bench tested at home and installed recently on boat. I really like the concept and the unit itself.
In the future I hope to install an additional, larger, Lifepo4 Battery using another Bank Manager as you mention in the video.
I don't claim to understand the benefits of all the new features yet, but having just recently installed a unit on my boat, these are the new features that really stand out to me so far personally:
*Larger display: Great ,nice improvement.
*The Internal power button: Great. Will make install cleaner/easier
*Display turns off: Great.
*Display dims: Great.
*Faster microprocessor: Good, facilitates the new features
*Bluetooth radio: Excellent (really looking forward to seeing apps)
*Remote wire connections via network cable: Excellent!!!. Will make install cleaner/easier.
*Surface mount with connections in rear to remote connector: Excellent as well.
*Flush mount faceplate: Excellent
Color change: Understand it. It sounds silly but personally I like the white. It blends in better for my install. I know, silly. Also I think I would miss the blue led hue given off at night from the unit.
Oh and the low temperature monitoring and cut off. Excellent
Overall personal rating on the new version: Excellent.
Again congratulations on the new version
So nice of you to say
Very pleased repeat customer.
Just purchased a BBMS Gen 3 for a solar home (48vdc). This was primarily based on my experience this summer with a BBMS Gen 2.3 that I bench tested and then installed on my boat (12v) in the spring.
The unit on the boat worked out really well for me. I left comments as I progressed on "Upgrade to Lithium - the Smarter, Cheaper Way (BankManager)" video but I do not know how to include a link.
I learned a lot doing the boat install. I really like the new generation and the remote terminals.
For me the Gen 3 'Shutdown Temperature' feature is also a great addition.
Looking forward to installing this second unit.
Thanks. I'm not sure but I think now that I've "blessed" this thread with my comment you can add links to it. RUclips isn't clear on the subject
This entire project is extraordinary!
Future proofing 👏! Thank you for incorporating all the early adopter feedback 🙌 I am one of your Gen3 pre orders and very excited to 🛠️incorporate it into our 🚐 class b RV over the next few months!
Seems awesome, Clark!! Great job developing and growing! Super excited about the 48v contactor!!!!!!
Just made an order today including a bistable contactor. Can't wait to experiment with it. : )
Thanks for your order
Are yes been waiting for the 48v contactor 🤙🇦🇺
Congrats on the new version! I'm so excited! I can't wait to do some coding!
What are you going to develop?
@@Clarks-Adventure I've developed some boat automation and security software that can control an alarm, lights, refrigeration, battery monitoring, bilges, temps, etc for boats. I'm looking to creating a module to include data from the new Bank Manager! I'd love to chat and give you a demo sometime!
Sure send me your phone number to emilyandclarksadventure@gmail
I'm free now
Very nice! Thanks for another great video!
Nice features on the upgraded v3. Man u need to get this installed, I feel like such a slacker. I bought the V1 and still haven't installed it, I think I'm going to sell it to my dock neighbor and get 2 V3's now!
Yes there have been a lot of software and now hardware changes since Gen1.
Amaaaaazinggggggg!!! Well done Clark!
Thank you
fantastic resource
Can I suggest that you make a video with the display in action? I think people would like to see that. We all like glowing gadgets.
I have a video coming about me putting it in my camper.
It shows all the wiring then I go through the full menu describing each setting.
I think you might like that one
Where are they sold?
MarineDCAC.com
I love it. Such a great device. Definitely something we want to install on our sailing yacht.
Will BBMS get CE mark? How long will it take?
There is one in a lab in Germany now.
We can technically claim it now but with the testing I can defend it if challenged by competitors
@@Clarks-Adventure that's good news! 🤞
So to use bank manager, you have to have a second lead battery in parallel? Albeit small?
Yes. It can be a thin plate starter battery.
It's there mostly to keep various charge controllers sane when the BankManager removes the li after it's fully charged
So let me see if I've got this right. I wire my eternally regulated 100 amp alternator, and my solar charge controller to my house bank load center. Then run the power source for my load center to my AGM battery bank, and from the AGM battery bank I run a parallel hook up to my lithium house bank through the solenoid that is controled by your Bank manager. In addition i would run a Circuit from the AGM bank through a 12V to 12V B to B charger to keep my start battery charged? Sounds simple. Im thinking your Bank Manager is the answer to my needs. Now to decide which version is best for my needs. I sure likethe ideal of a bluetooth monitor of the Bank Manager on my phone, 😁
Yep, that would be a working system.
Personally I wouldn't use the dc-dc just an VSR (voltage sensitive relay (see video))
As far as what one to buy that's up to you. I've become a big fan of the "load" pin on the Gen3
And Bluetooth certainly has its advantages.
The contactor, is it a relay battery isolator?
It's like a relay yes
Nice job. I have a totally different question to run by you. When starting my twin engine Searay, at idle the voltage gages will read 13.5, when I increase the rpm the gages will peg to 18(max) and will stay there even if I come back to idle. Any ideas, because I am lost. Thanks for any imput.
That's your batteries being destroyed due to overcharge because you have a bad voltage regulator.
Long story. Your discharged batteries take all your engines can produce at idle and hold the voltage in check.
Then high rpm charges them.. and then overcharges them. Then the few amps at idle can hold them up on dangerous territory for batteries.
Honestly they will die soon at 18v. Fix it
Likely it's only one engine
@@Clarks-Adventure Thank you, how do you check to see if the voltage regulator is bad?
@TheRacdoc I think you need local help. Get a friend to help and watch what he does.
But from literally hundreds of miles away. Start only one engine at a time. Figure which one causes the issue. Then just change the regulator.
But someone knowledgeable in that engine and local would be valuable to you just now.
@@Clarks-Adventure Great advice, thank you
What voltage are you bleeding down too (via the last pin/last described feature) ?? Thanks
It's somewhat adjustable. Factory settings comes out to 13.3 or just below. It tends to climb of its own accord and the BankManager might turn that on and off like 3 times before it settles
Well damn, I just bought the Gen 2 a few weeks ago.
Same here I don’t know how I feel about this 😂
Hi Clark, I have the gen 1. Will any of the gens work with AGM and LifePo, 12v?
Sure your gen1 is fine with AGM.
I carry AGM on Temptress, it was developed with AGM
You mention that this device works well with a joint lithium (house) + start (lead acid) system. Does one need to remove the existing automatic (or even manual) battery combiner?
I made this video just for you.
ruclips.net/video/Xp6ssk4Guuc/видео.html
@EmilyAndClark I have watched your video but it didn't really advance my understanding. I have posted some more detailsed questions on that video.
Do you have an illustrative wiiing diagram?
Sure in the manual.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
I have a question regarding your BBMS. If the lead acid in the mixed system is the starting battery, what needs to happen with the batteries when the engine is cranking? I'm guessing the lithium needs to be temporarily disconnected from the system but when is it safe to reconnect the lithium if the starter battery voltage is now below that of the lithium?
You can set a max discharge amps limit on the BankManager. If for whatever reason the amp draw exceeds this it disconnects the li. Be it short circuit or engine start.
Once the engine starts and the alternator starts charging the lead voltage will go back up. Once it reaches the li voltage the BankManager will reconnect.
Basically if too much current is asked from the li during starting the li will be disconnected for just seconds.
Planning my install but not sure what do with the battery sensors that are on each of our 6 AGM’s that tie into our Schieber monitor/control system. Can I put them on the Lithium and just reprogram the Schieber for the new bank ah capacity?
Either that or put them after your lead and Li wires come together towards your panel to send total system current. I'd do that and use the BankManager current sensor to know what's going on with just the li.
Just make sure your BankManager GND wire goes to the li side of that shunt
@@Clarks-AdventureI may have to come back for clarification once I start laying everything out. Thanks
Hi Clark I have been watching you and Emily for a long time. Love your videos I was wondering if they make a little battery to power a duel fuel generator. What brand would you recommend that will give me the longest life span? I have the original little battery still and the generator is about 5 years old. I have a solar panel trickle charger hooked to the battery and so far it has kept the battery up and it starts good. Just wondering if you would know a brand that you know is better than the Chinese battery it comes with from the factory. The generator is a Pulsar Model G12KBN. Thanks, Rob
Hi Rob,
Usually it's better to use lead batteries as starter batteries. I don't have any real favorites. Stay away from cheap Walmart but there are a lot of good ones.
Just ordered the "48V" solenoid for my BM2 but the listing was "36 & 48" with no option for choosing the "48V". Should I assume it works reliably for Both 36volt and 48 volt systems?? I will be using it in a 48 volt system. Could you please add a link for "Want to up grade your BM2? Choose the following upgrades: ? (not all of us are programers or engineers....)
This offering is the correct device for 36 and 48v systems. I see your order, you ordered the right contactor.
As to your second point. I don't understand what you are asking for.
Great video!!
Question please
I have a small motorhome my starting battery is separate from my house lead batteries x4, thinking to get some lithium batteries, can you unit use for just LI batteries or should I keep some lead too? I like to keep the starting battery separate, what do you suggest?
You need to keep some lead. Usually just one starter type does the trick.
This video will help you understand how to segregate your engine starter.
ruclips.net/video/Xp6ssk4Guuc/видео.html
I do this on a 39' RV, I have 4-6v lead and 4-100ah Li batteries and two-12v starter (chassis) batteries. I wanted to keep the lead because they are the back-up batteries if I somehow kill the chassis batteries. I made the whole system removable and can pull it out without tools in less than 5 min. I used a big Anderson connector to connect the "add-on" lithium system to my coach batteries. I don't plan on removing them, but my RV is a 2023 and still under warranty, so if I needed warranty work, I wanted to be able to remove them.
@@Cooter91208 I tell people about your setup all the time. Still liking the BankManager?
I have a gen3 now with Bluetooth and a few other new features.
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, works perfect for me. I'm basically a weekend boon docker, so being able to leave home with all that energy stored is great. Although it might seem complex, the wiring to the coach is as easy has using jumper cables. When I was first looking at switching to Li, there was a lot of things to be concerned about and the RV's wiring was quite the snake pit, this made it easy and I have no concerns. When I have described it to some of my friends with RVs, I basically tell them it's like using a power bank for a cellphone. The other nice thing is that you don't have to use it. You can simple push the dial button and it will keep the Li disconnected. With my setup, I'm able to camp over 4 days parked in the shade (limited solar) with the refer and all the other systems running constantly on the inverter without having to use the generator. After 4 days, my Li was showing 22% charged and my lead were full. Once you understand how this thing works, you'll understand that your lead will basically always be perfectly charged if the BM has you connected to the lithium. I have seen some people are skeptical that's just because it's too simple. Good job!
Good to hear
When I redid the manual for gen3 I tried to simplify the battery connection concept. Same finished product of course but now I say, build a lead system. Then put the new li in parallel with the BankManager in the positive cable. Done!
Can you use a winch 12v 500a contactor that has both + and - shut off? (common on amazon for WARN automotive winches). Advisable or should I stay away? Also how does the BankManager work with high current draw sources (electric winch, anchor windlass, maybe a bow thruster in the future...) Does it turn on the lithium during those short bursts of high current draw/voltage drop and then turn it off when it is no longer used? Thanks!!
T.
Any contactor you choose needs to be low side signaled (the BankManager switches the negative side of the coil) and of course shouldn't burn much power through it's coil.
When you use a big load like a bow thruster or a winch with this set up, there is a voltage slump when a relatively high load is asked for. If this slump takes the system below 12.8v the lead comes in to help. This is good as lead is better at these big short loads.
You may set a maximum li current in the BankManager menu. If this is passes the BankManager will disconnect the LI.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks for the clarification. I had an opposite scenario in mind. ie daytime, Li is full and disconnected. Bow thrusters are used and voltage drop occurs. Will Li get pulled in to help or should not be called upon and have Fe handle it. Concern there is Fe drops to below Li then manual connection will trigger a burst of current from Li to Fe afterwards...
Ok I see. After the li is all charged up and disconnected any system side voltage drop will bring in the li. It will do its part be it your winch or just the fridge coming on. If the charge source can't keep up the li is there to do its job
Things work best in a hybrid system if you set the charger float to 13.3v. Then the li stays connected as soon as the lead finishes its charge cycle.
what's the max recommended distance between split units?
I tested it with a 25 foot Ethernet cable. It worked fine.
The Gen 3 has voltage calibration for Li and Pb. This is there to account for resistance in long cables.
I ordered the Gen 3& contactor, received payment confirmation from PayPal, but was never asked for shipping information nor have I received any other confirmation of order. ???
Check your email. I sent you the address you sent us there last night
Clark, i think you are nuts. Which is how innovation gets done. 3 form factors, all the optionality... Whew, fantastic customer focus. You should mask & spray paint a ruined case or 3 so as to recommend a paint brand for those who want white, silver, gold, or whatever custom color, seems there are always 2nd's on cases when mfg'rg in small batches, maybe good for a quickie vid, and might be a good project for somebody who can't live with a yellowing G2 case
Thanks.
There is a guy who installs professionally. He always spray paints the white cases black.
For the boards I developed a way to have one board do both jobs. My assemblers just break the board on v groves for the split cases.
Took weeks to get that right but worth it
I am so happy I found your channel! I have just purchased a twin engine boat with 10 not too good led batteries and I am considering redoing everything from scratch with a mix of led and lithium. The boat has two KAD44 diesel engines that require quite a lot of power to start so I am thinking maybe 2 start AGM batteries per engine (or one very big AGM starter battery per engine) and then as much lithium as I can fit in the boat (and afford). Does this sound like a reasonable configuration and how many bank managers would I need for this?
// Johan
Thanks Johan,
Welcome.
Just the one BankManager unless you need to split your Li into multiple banks.
Yes that seems reasonable. I just wrote this answer for someone else but it might interest you.
________________
You can set a max discharge amps limit on the BankManager. If for whatever reason the amp draw exceeds this it disconnects the li. Be it short circuit or engine start.
Once the engine starts and the alternator starts charging the lead voltage will go back up. Once it reaches the li voltage the BankManager will reconnect.
Basically if too much current is asked from the li during starting the li will be disconnected for just seconds.
@@Clarks-AdventureThanks for responding. Maybe I need to think this through a bit more. I never want power to be drawn from the engine starter batteries except when cranking. I cannot ever risk getting to such low voltage that I cannot start the engines. At the same time I want the lithium batteries to keep the lead batteries fully charged and I want all batteries to be charged by the engines - and the shore power battery charger when we have shore power. Is this type of logic/setup possible?
Sure very possible. Here is a deep dive.
ruclips.net/video/Xp6ssk4Guuc/видео.html
Thank you! I will have a look at that and most probably make an order! Do you ship internationally? I am in Sweden.
Nope only to US addresses. If you don't have a convenient American friend there is a company called reship.com that takes care of importing.
Hi Clark this is Gary on Moonlight lady we are presently in looper on and have a problem with our bank manager generation too. What acid dropped to 10 V and the lithium never kicked in. How should I troubleshoot this to resolve the problem. Thank you very much
If you are in Luperon you might want to talk to Brock or Conrad (ask around). They are both experts.
@@Clarks-Adventure 👍
Gary on Moonlight lady here had a problem with the bank manager and we resolved it, operator error that’s on me I still think it’s the final system on the market I don’t think you’ll ever find anything better thanks again park we sure appreciate it
Does it come with a "Bank Manager for Dummies" book?
Yep, kinda.
drive.google.com/file/d/1XifJAKekQ-Cz6jnoWRcOzE-NqNQWlBjR/view?usp=drive_link
@@Clarks-Adventure 😲
Knowing I may be going into the cold, I will have to learn of the battery heater capabilities for the LiFePO4 batteries. You don't have a battery box design for that do you?
Cold is better handled by the BMS than the BankManager.
I'm going to do a BMS swap soon and I've found a great BMS that handles cold well.
@@Clarks-Adventure getting an estimate on a Bell Marine air-cooled electric motor with regeneration and accessories for my second smaller sailboat. That one is here so I can work on it.
Great product, but a little disappointing that you do not ship outside of the US and require a street address.... Living on my boat in Europe
There is always reship.com
They take care of this
😎
This is essentially an (over-priced) but simple programable switch, that connects (and disconnects) the two battery chemistries together in parallel. This will invalidate your battery warranty and shorten your battery life. Dont do it! Buy a proper dc to dc converter from a reputable manufacturer and save your self a lot of grief.
Stephen,
What is your agenda here? You keep publishing the same opinion in many places. Do you have some direct hatred?
I again suggest you read Conrad's article linked to the bottom of this page www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms as a start of your research on how LiFePO4 needs to be charged. Low current overcharge is proven to shorten the life of li batteries. There are over 600 happy users of this "simple switch" as you call it.