Clark, I've been following for a few years now and I have to say your channel is by far the most practical and informative. You have saved me thousands . . . keep up the good work, it is really appreciated.
I use to design these. I used one to run an altitude meter that ran on 24v on an airplane that only had 12v. A lot of large computers use point of load converters to avoid voltage drops on low voltage lines.
Thank You! The number of applications for both Buck and Boost for me is off the charts! I didn't know it could be that easy. Really appreciate the link and I purchased one!
In your final version, I would recommend creating a "plug-in" model. One end that plugs into he house 24V, and the other end that plus into the laptop. I would enclose the variable voltage converter with a case (so you do not lose any smoke that might contained in it) -- just think of it as your power brick for your laptop. Effectively that is what it is. I use this very system in my off grid setup to charge my 18V and 40V power tool batteries. Love the channel.
Perfect! I am doing a test at the dock unplugged, and I need to turn on the inverter to charge my laptop. Then I found this video! I appreciate all you guys do to help us!
Mr. Clark, I am impressed with your constant willingness to help your community (Sailing/Boating). You have discovered a way to apply your engineering degree and skills to both sides of the equation -- private sector (commercial products to support your lifestyle, i.e. BankManager) as well as open source information. I am also a engineer (EE/PhD & ME/MS) and enjoy surfing both sides of the wave. For many haters out there, and as we all know there are many, I believe it would aid your message to expand on your academic credentials. Also, for those willing to risk their expensive laptop or monitors on your presentation, it would boost confidence to know you are speaking with some degree of foundation. Personally, I am a fan, your technical post are always informative and deliver value. I hope to press the flesh with you and Em one day. Perhaps I will run across you at the Boat Show in MD this October. I recently ran across a t-shirt by Brittney & Beau (RUclips) that said -- "Sailing is the most expensive way to get somewhere for free." Gees, this is so true. I wish you and Em the greatest success in your private sector ventures. If you and Em would like to connect, please leave me a comment and I will reach out.
I didn't realize they made buck converters that big. My only experience with them was when I built an enclosure for my 3D printer. I have a 12V AC/DC power supply to power the arduino nano, exhaust fan, and LED strips, and used a small buck step-down converter to provide 5V to things like the temperature and humidity sensor, control knob, etc.
As usual your video is wonderful, useful and well made. Is there a video on the build of the your portable battery? If not, I, fir one would love to see one.
Thanks Clark. I don't need anything like this right now but I can see possibilities down the road. I did find something at Goodwill that does pretty much the same thing with a bunch of different ends for about $6 but I think it only puts out something lkne 900mA, so not a whole lot of power, but the ends may come in very useful. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
I don't know what it is but I just went solar and I am finding answers to all my questions including your video on these converters and this has been very informative
You can DIY but there are also very inexpensive universal 12V laptop chargers with a car plug. Alternatively most new laptops can be charged through the USB C port and even if you don't have a 12V car socket, you most certainly have a USB socket.
I just started following you Clark and very much enjoying your videos. Having lived in my RV for the past 22 years this video especially interested me. I've often thought about how I could bypass running my inverter while using my computer and now I know how to do it. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks Lonnie, How about sharing our video links with people in the RV community. There is a lot of crossover. In fact we did a 3 month truck camper trip last summer. We recorded it. But views were so low we stopped publishing. Hard to break into a new group
Great video, wish I had been able to watch this a couple years ago before tasking one of these wonder boards with charging my ebike off my truck battery while driving. Your explanation would have saved some experimentation and it looks to be the exact same board which was purchased from Amazon. Keep the videos coming.
While most 12V USB sockets don't have a boost converter, we have some on our batteries that do. So all on all of our batteries you can charge laptops at 65W at up to 20V. Not super fast, but sufficient. By the way, I just discovered your channel, I really like it!
@@Clarks-Adventurefyi the Amazon link worked but errors when adding to cart with coupon … probably nothing you can do but I tried multiple times and same error
@@Clarks-Adventure actually, I shared a link last week to a friend building out his sprinter van. And he is an EE lol! Your type of videos are why the internet was invented, people sharing to help other people!
Thanks for sharing! Doing a little Arduino project on the boat and preferred running off the start batteries. I was concerned about the voltage drop when starting the engines and the 14+ volts when changing. Nano 33 IOT accepts 3.3 to 21 volts V in. So there must be a buck converter or similar circuit on the Nano board? The on line PDF schematic for the Nano was over my head.
I think the mano uses the old cheaper device. Easy to tell. If you feed it a high voltage and a component runs real hot. If so better to use a switching supply to bring the voltage down to close to the final target. Uses less power.
Hi your so good at bringing things down to my level ...Cheers . You seem a lot better health wise . Carry on with the party ...but make sure you tidy up before she returns , I bet Emily left you with a list ?😏
Yes this circuits are very handy! But use varistors or suppressor diodes to protect yourself and the Laptop. Only one drop of saltwater can couse a really bad malfunction on this device. It can produce or let through more then 80 Volts. Keep in mind ignition coils work in a similar way.
Sorry for my bad English! Yes, I mean these step up and step down (or buck boost) dc dc converters on these very compact uncased circuit boards that you can order very cheaply in China. I also own some of these boards and am now faced with the task of accommodating them in a waterproof but heat-dissipating housing. Greetings from Germany with Google Translator!
Hyperchannel… I was only teasing about the grammar… I make more mistakes that ever now at 78 years old… AND I FIND I am Soooo behind in my EBONICS & Pigeon English too
Thanks for correcting me! I stopped watching TV because it takes too much time. I wanted to at least keep my English up a bit and found this channel here on youtube, among other channels like "Sailing SV Delos", "White Spot Pirates", "Vet Tails' Sailing Chuffed".... Now my time goes that way.
Thanks so much, Clark. I will watch this again after lunch and probably several times when we actually do it :) Our laptop is 19.0V and 7.89A, 150W. So, no worries about the power supply sensing when the battery is full? The battery takes as much as it needs and that's it. Correct? Ours is for an expensive editing laptop, too, so just want to make sure it won't fry. We set the voltage to 19 and that's basically it besides getting the plug's polarity correct. Seems too easy :) Another thing.... Does the potentiometer stay set? Will the constant movement of the boat cause it to slip? Thanks again for making this video. 👍
Nice video. Very useful and I need to make one for me. Also, I really need a portable power supply like yours. Can you do a build video? (I do not want to buy a commercial unit.) Your dinghy use is right on for me, also general use for camping, storms, outages, etc. Your consideration is appreciated, but if not interested, any reference to another build video that you like would also be appreciated. Thanks!!
Hi Clark, great video. I have a Dell laptop which unfortunately uses 3 wires, an outer and a pin but also an inner sleeve on the outer ring. The 3rd wire uses some kind of active sensing to determine what power adapter is in use, I suspect it's a serial comm. The point being that if the laptop can't see this signal it will not charge, it will fortunately still use the available power to operate, just will not charge. Off hand I can't remember which contact does which. Just a note for any prospective Dell users.
@@Clarks-Adventure Maybe sometimes, sadly my Dell interrogates the PSU in the Bios during bootup and intact displays a boot message that the charger could not be identified. This is not to negate in any way the excellent video you provided which will work absolutely perfectly for many products. Sadly not all Dell laptops, which may still work but won't increase battery charge. I do so hate it when manufacturers in-build proprietary mechanisms to prevent the use of 3rd part add-ons.
Been watching your great educational vids! I play with these Chinese SMPS too. One big nasty side effect of these boards and nearly all cheaper Chinese inverters is they have little RFI filtering. Saves $ of course to implement it. Quick way to find out if your power supply/inverter is noisey as far as EMI/RFI emissions is to find an old skool portable AM transistor radio and scroll the dial on AM. Have radio about 6 to 10 feet away from tested device. If you hear buzzing, squealing, and no nearby broadcasting stations, you have a major interference problem! I've had to invest in outboard RFI suppression circuits for both DC/DC converters and my 120 volt inverters. Even my roof top solar uses grid tie inverters that dumped a ton of crappy RFI back into the AC house power lines! After installing good suppression boxes, the interference went way down! I'd sure put a low voltage suppression board on the output of that laptop boost converter to help deliver cleaner power to your laptop. They can be found on eBay and Amazon for under $10.00. The larger capacity 120vac ones can run from $16.00 to $25.00 depending on the current ratings.
The nav laptop is a real drain atm. Like to know what the consumption savings is for an appropriate sized inverter and ac power block to the dc-dc. I was going to do it one way or another. Long ago the auto air adapters were not very efficient.
I go into detail in a comment below but that product exists on Amazon. Slow. Something like this. LISEN 2-Pack USB C Car Charger Adapter Fast Charge, 48W All Metal Cigarette Lighter USB Charger Smallest Flush Fit Car Charger USB C for iPhone 14 Pro Max 13 12 Galaxy S23/22 Pixel iPad Pro-Black a.co/d/8IAw0Iw
Seems like you could have “main DC” at higher voltage (36 or 48) to minimize voltage drop then use buck converters for legacy 12v or lower voltage applications, but would complexity outweigh advantages?
Lots of European boats are 24v and most land based (not automotive) are 48v. It has its advantages and is becoming a better idea as there is more choice in appliances (ironically due to switching power supplies)
Most laptops from brands like Dell and HP typically require a three-wire power connection. These wires are: 1- Ground: This wire is for grounding the electrical circuit. 2- Positive Voltage: Usually 19.5 volts, this wire supplies the primary operating voltage to the laptop. 3- Identification/Communication Wire: Often around 15 volts, this wire is used for communication between the power adapter and the laptop to ensure compatibility and proper functioning. However, your power supply only offers a two-wire connection, providing: 1- Ground (negative) 2- Positive voltage There is no option for a third wire for communication or identification, which may lead to compatibility issues with laptops that require this feature.
I use a usb-c car charger from Samsung It do 45watt on usb-c and the laptop charge from it and even use it. I use it on my boat . Samsung model number EP-L5300
@@Clarks-Adventure a lot of basic laptops or google chrome boek do not use a lot. If you have a game laptop wel than you have to go for special charger. It still use a 12volt plug like in a car . But go up to 90watt . A charger up to 65 watt. VAUTO_USBC65W brand Sygnosis
Hi Clark. Enjoyed this item. Maybe look at installing but the device appears to be "open", with no cover. So just wondering where you'd site this - even for example shown - using a laptop. I presume you mount it somewhere around nav station? Hidden away to protect parts and from inquisitive inspection.
I tend to screw things like this to a bulkhead, as you say, near the nav station. I have a place under the chart locker. But in honesty we have plenty of electricity. I'm still using the inverter here. I have a lot of projects going on and since even while running the AC at night we dump extra power it's just not worth my time. But I bought a suitable boost converter and did the video because others would benefit. I've used these on Temptress in the past with good power savings.
For devices less thirsty than computers, I use USB-PD. For DC devices that don't talk USB-PD I use cables that have the negotiator circuits in the cable. But while USB-PD can theoretically match the 18V/90W that my computer power supply outputs, the beefiest USB-PD I've been able to find that can be powered by 12V has a max of 65W. So the Nuc that's my desktop and my laptop have their own power.
Just spent a week in Desolation Sound and yes the thought did pop into my head: "why am I using an inverter for nothing more than my lap top and son's phone?" Mostly an idle thought because more cruising to do next week :) However, This was something on my todo list to investigate. So thank you for doing the research for me already ;) The next question would be... what style DC plug should I install in a bulkhead to plug into? It seems to me the standard cig lighter plugs, aside from not handling even 5 amps very well might get mistaken for 12V use. While it would be possible to use the little barrel connector like the laptop does, they seem kind of flimsy (from the guitar stomp box building I have done). There are bulkhead mountable anderson outlets but quite large (I was thinking of using one of those for the battery our dinghy runs on). Anyway, great video, interesting as always.
Really good idea! One piece of advice I would give is, if you only use the power of those laptops to video edit and not play games, I would suggest getting an M1 MacBook if you have the budget. They are really efficient. I have used a M1 MacBook Air since 2021, I don't do video edits but mostly CAD and some Excel stuff. It uses about 5-8 Watts while surfing the web and doing mundane stuff and about 12 Watts when playing games or designing in CAD (Autodesk). As far as I know, they are 2-3 times faster than intel processors in video editing, something with the architecture of the chips.
They also use USB-C to charge which is a huge bonus. So I just installed a 12V outlet with native USB 3.0 and USB-C to charge all my devices on board. No need to have many cables, 2 is enough and as with the more efficient laptop, I can use a smaller battery.
Yes that is quite a processor. But I just hate the apple approach. Closed architecture is just wrong. Company squashes innovation and relies on marketing. I was an apple guy when the II+ was the thing but jumped away when they closed things and went Mac. So I'd have to put Linux on it and that is just too much work.
@@Clarks-Adventure it’s 60 watts. Has a small adjustable switch for output voltage. I set mine to 17 volts to match the required voltage for my older MacBook Pro. It’s been working just fine for years. I did however make an adapter for the MagSafe plug adapter
So that’s why the cigarette 65w adaptor i took apart had a coil in it. I took it apart because I blew it by feeding +/- back to front. I assume they all dislike that treatment . The cheap ones abound in the last few months, they seemed more of a rarity a year ago.
Yes, For those the limiting factor is the cigarette lighter plug itself. Can't run 250 watts through one without it melting. So I think that's why they aren't selling well. Computers are a bit more hungry of late.
@@Clarks-Adventure yes forgot to mention it was usbc which simplifies things greatly , as voltage will be 20 preset I expect , 20v at 65w was ok for my dell . But it does seem a big ask for a device the size of a cigarette plug, the replacement I bought is an external 12v brick, I hope to not take that apart but I expect it looks similar inside to your demo . Just need someone now to invent a 12v space heater that draws little current and then i can type and be warm. Laws of physics are against me there😁
That's an interesting thought. USB c charging is expected to be slow by the PC. It's actually a digital negotiation before the voltage is stepped up from 5 to 12v so a bit much for DIY but someone should sell one of these if they aren't already. And the plugs are universal of course!
@@Clarks-Adventure Please consider making a video for a USB-PD solution that can charge from a DC input? Many laptops now use USB-C connections to charge, and recommend USB-PD power supplies rated at 100W. The product you've linked earlier in the comments is rated at 65W, and it's quite likely that it can't handle that amount of power for long.
@@Clarks-Adventure Maybe another choice for a video would be how to modify an existing USB-PD charger that takes AC input into one that takes DC input. The current batch of chargers use the USB-PD 3.0 standard, which negotiates up to 20V and 100W supplied to the device. The newest version of the standard, USB-PD 3.1, goes up to 48V and 240W.
Thanks Clark. I was already looking into do this same thing. Did you do any testing to see how many watts you use when connected to the inverter (DC-AC-DC) vs when using the switched power supply. Your laptop is rated for 240W. It would be interesting to see how many it is actually using when you are rendering and have a low battery when connected to AC vs DC. My ASUS power supply is rated at 19.5v @ 9.23A or 200W so pretty similar. Also, do you have any recommendations on a duplex plug to allow the chord to be changed from one power supply to the other?
Yes I do have a favorite connector for this kind of thing I bought a bunch so I have them.. don't know what they are called but I have plenty But to answer your question I had to know what they are called.... 45minutes of fruitless research later ... Get some xt30 connectors. Or better xt60
Nice discussion but was hoping to hear some facts about the realized power losses using an inverter vs a DC to DC converter and what this means for a typical cruiser in terms of house bank consumption. I.e. how material are the losses per hour of computer use? Also ironic that the computer itself needs only ~4V which means yet another loss internal to the computer.
The computer has a switching power supply inside so not that bad but yes lots of power conversion. I guess I should have given numbers but my inverter is so big and inefficient at low power I just thought it wasn't a fair comparison.
@@Clarks-Adventure ah! Found the thread to attach too. I know this is a year old but my curiosity wanted to see if there was a voltage drop under laptop load and although I understand your comment about no need to limit the current, I just wanted to see what current the laptop was pulling under full load.
@@Clarks-Adventure wow! Thanks for the instant answer! Man you are supposed to be resting & healing sir. I hope you are doing great and the weather is nice where you are at. Beautiful morning here on the Gulf Coast of Florida.
Hey Clarke. This has put my mind at ease for my laptop. I had one of these a while back now and have since lost it. Im curious, do you need to adjust the CC pot at all or just the CV pot. During testing the output seemed erratic when trying to match the amps and voktage required. I am by no means an electronics specialist, just pick bits up along the way with a very basic understanding I need 180w 9.3amps and I thought that was juicy! Thanks for the video. Super helpful :)
An absolute necessity. The only potential (pun not intended) trouble comes with certain laptop brands that use a third sensing pin in the plug to communicate with and identify their charger being an official one before accepting any current from the plug..! Such brands are best avoided.
Yes. I seem to have one of those issues with my computer. I found after filming that if I plugged it in before booting all was well but if I booted the laptop and then plugged in my boost converter it wasn't able to charge the laptop. So I just plug it in before booting. Works for me with this particular computer.
I have the exact same problem with my Dell Inspiron laptop computer. I've got a great buck converter and cable purchased, but without a resistor and a lead to the center pin there's no hope according to research. It wasn't as easy as "get this exact one" and "put it exactly here", but I saw someone do it a long time ago on a video. It seemed just a bit over my level of wanting to spend to experiment. I just started getting more and more solar panels, batteries, and bigger equipment over time so I can use the laptop more and more. When I tried, it did show up as connected to power, but not only would it not charge the laptop battery, it would actually draw from the battery as it wasn't accepting enough current to even operate. I ended up damaging my sound card trying to solve a side effect of a buzzing being picked up through the headphone jack on an analog DC audio amplifier while connected to this DC to DC adapter. This could've been completely my fault crossing a connection, though if not for the buzzing I'd not have had to dig around causing a major problem instead.
Excellent vid, Clark! I’d think that, as an example: 24v battery system, one could distribute to a few choice locations in the boat, then set up a buck converter to something like a USB bus, to provide appropriate power for, say, computer and devices. I’m curious to understand what’s required between converter and USB ports (multi) to allow for different device requirements across these USB ports? A converter for each port? Or is there circuitry best suited as distributor?
Hey Clark, Thanks so much for the content, your knowledge makes me nervous! Just a heads up, I was looking at some of your recomendations on Amazon and noticed that you still approve the solar vent... that you later dislike..."Failed months after the first saltwater wave hit it. I've been living aboard and cruising for 30 years (Emily and Clark's Adventure on RUclips). This is a bad product. It's motor isn't protected from salt. I have had to cut it to prices and reworked the electrics and replace the fan. Not worth the effort! But there seems to be nothing good available anymore. I'm going to rework my 30 year old Necro marine bronze vent. It will be less work and I'll end up with something good"'
Great thanks and great video on the subject of powering directly from the 12 V battery, I will put that to use on many devices. Easy enough to do right away!!
I just bought an Asus tuf 15 inch based on the Ryzen 7940hs www.ebay.com/itm/195743963053?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pnvsdb3uq9o&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Zp5jgUhScS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Seems a good choice just now as long as you don't want a bigger screen
I've also been thinking about this before for an desktop computer on the boat. Just because laptops are so annoyingly loud and I need a larger screen anyway. But wouldn't it have made sense to show the real difference of the PC working from the standard AC converter and this thing? I mean measuring the amps going into the ac converter and comparing that with the new one.
I also have a desktop type computer running direct DC. Big savings there I expect. It uses crazy low power even with it's monitor. The "savings" of not using an inverter is a function of the power consumed by your inverter. Our main inverter is a 3kw. The smart way to use an inverter would be to use a "just big enough" one.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sounds great! What is the standard suggested power supply for yours? I believe mine is an 800 W due to the graphics card which is needed for CAD work. Plus the monitor of course. How did you protect the PC from saltwater damp? I imagine the cooling quite difficult in an kind of watertight box. Or do you rely on your air conditioning removing the salty air? How long do you have it in use like that? The NAS you mentioned wants to be protected as well...
Question I got a MSI Stealth GS77 laptop that uses a usb type charging port how do you find the right cord for that because the usb is not like a normal usb port its hallow inside as appose to the normal ones which have a small inner part?
Are theses converters safe, to be left alone. I had one to keep 12 v at 14 for alarm system. Worked well when I used it I was going to use them to keep voltage at 12v for led relays and lighting.
@@Clarks-Adventure I do use spay versions of conformal coating, works fine (I need it for my work so I always have it in stock.) but my boat is pretty dry inside, upto now not a problem.
I would like to have seen 2 meters connected. 1 for current. The other for voltage. When charging, we would see amps been drawn. Sometimes we would see a Voltage drop. Ultimately when the current time the amps, we see watts!
You should consider an apple silicon macbook for you next laptop, the battery life/efficiency is amazing and you can charge just off 12 usb PD chargers. With my M1 14" macbook pro I'll often do a day of photo/video editing on battery and still have battery left. My main charger is only AC 100w, but that can charge my mbp to something like 80% in 30 minutes, for an overnight charge I sometimes even just use a 10-20w phone charger.
Yep apple has the best chip just now. But I'm not an apple guy anymore. I left when they closed the architecture with the Mac. Bad for users, bad for technology. Great for marketing.
@@Clarks-Adventure Fair, this macbook is my first apple product since I had an iPhone 5s, didn't think I would ever go back, but for my media work the mbp is just too practical to turn down.
How many ah is the battery you are charging? If you can't do the math go by mass. If your charging battery weighs 10x the laptop battery expect it to charge it about 10x. That's not exactly but it's in the ballpark
Your laptop battery charges at about where a 12v LiFePO4 discharges voltage wise so you can compare just ah. So 100ah of big battery / 5.7ah of laptop battery * .80 for losses gives like 14
Hi Clark, we have the Desk Tops Personnel Computers witch has 110V / 220 V 600 Watts fonts. Can I bypass the AC "area" and supply 12 V DC and have the same output ? I am a Civil Engineer and do not understand these micro circuits.
Your computer requires multiple voltages out of its power supply. I wouldn't do it DIY as some of these have to be very accurate. There are 12v in power supplies for desktop machines. I use one to power a machine on Temptress. Look at automotive computer power supplies. In short they are made and work fine. Maybe I should show mine??
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, please. The idea is to have a PC on a boat. I know you worked in the IT area, me too, IBM mainframes MVS/XA/ESA, CAD/CAE/CAM implementation at VW Brazil. I like the Intel RST technologie available on PC mother boards. I use it as a backup tool. I have two SSDs. If I have any problem... Virus... etc. Just shutdown, disconnect the one in use and the IRST boats at the other one. I can reconnect "the bad" SSD with the PC ON, and IRST asks if I want to copy the SSD in use to the one just reconnect. After that the system automatically puts it online and puts offline the one that was in use.
You can also just buy a mac mini and remove the power supply and run straight from 12v DC. mines been going for 5 years. oh and my monitor runs straight 12v dc
I'm not sure if you have seen the Type C USB cables that have the ability to directly negotiate voltages from USB PD power supplies and have barrel jacks at the other end. I saw them on @AndreasSpiess channel here ruclips.net/video/vLUUn88OXx8/видео.html. Just another tool in the toolbag!
How the electronics is wired is one important part of the problem, but how you case it and mount it is equally important. I'm certain you don't just leave it lying loose.
Remember that most of these devices from China are rated at for example 20A max. This means that if your input voltage is 12v and output voltage is 20v your limit would be the lowest of the two making it 12v*20A = 240W instead of 24v*20A = 480W. To make a example of a possible setup: - 12v battery bank - 10A @ 19v requirement for the device you want to power. - DCDC buckboost specified to be capable of 15A. Now lets see if we are in range. Device requires 10A @ 19V = 10*19 = 190W Input into DCDC buck boost 12v so we take 15A * 12V = 180W so here we go over the rating by 10W (or 0.83A if you prefer. = 10W/12V) of what the DCDC buck boost is rated at. If you are unsure about it go with one of the devices that are "constant current / constant voltage" as they would regulate both voltage and current and make sure neither goes above what it's set to and risk getting overloaded. You also have lots of devices on these sites that claim much larger spec's than what they are actually rated for, so try to oversize them with 20-30%. Some also have a much lower efficiency-rating at the top 10% of it's max current so a going with a higher rating may be beneficial in multiple ways. Putting a fast-acting fuse on the output (to your computer) would probably also be recommended with cheap stuff from China as some of the cheap ones can have a horrific failure-mode. For the input it would probably be good with a fuse too, but more to protect the batteries from a short.
@@borys2767 When HP, Dell etc order things to be produced in China they have strict specs and they do testing they they fulfill the requested specs and do actual quality-control. When you buy random things from aliexpress there is often zero quality-control and almost never any testing that it fulfills the listed specifications. Lots of products even have contradictory specifications listed stating insane values in some sort of attempt to trick someone into a sale. Where i work we do produce quite a bit in China, but everything is according to our schematics and with our PCB layouts and strict component sourcing to try and make sure no counterfeit parts are used. We have ripped up quite a few contracts where producers deviated. We have also gotten burned with produced products not fulfilling the specs due to non-approved cost-savings, costing us quite a bit of $. Guess what happens when they use a counterfeit electrolytic capacitor that has a 30% failure rate within a year.... *Huge* warranty costs. You can still buy stuff from there that will work fine, but you usually have to go with a over-spec'ed product. If it has a good rating it's probably less than 5-10% risk that it will fail within a year or two. For the price you can usually buy two for when one of them fail. If it's from a seller that has been on the platform for many years and does not have too many bad rating you might even get a fairly ok product from time to time.
You kept touching the converter. I kept wincing, waiting for you to get shocked, but you never did. Besides experience, how do you know what you can touch, and what you can't touch when it is plugged in. I would expect you couldn't do the same thing with an inverter. Is that because of AC and higher voltage? What determines which parts have the potential to cause harm?
I wish that we could just use 12v for everything in life considering that everything runs on 12v, even monster desktop PCs, run 12v, 5v, and 3.3v respectively.
I will second that, Everlanders did a good job of setting things up in the RV. Same idea, they just have the luxury of not being in a salty marine environment.
Clark, I've been following for a few years now and I have to say your channel is by far the most practical and informative. You have saved me thousands . . . keep up the good work, it is really appreciated.
Thanks Andy
Share links???
I use to design these. I used one to run an altitude meter that ran on 24v on an airplane that only had 12v.
A lot of large computers use point of load converters to avoid voltage drops on low voltage lines.
Thank You! The number of applications for both Buck and Boost for me is off the charts! I didn't know it could be that easy. Really appreciate the link and I purchased one!
In your final version, I would recommend creating a "plug-in" model. One end that plugs into he house 24V, and the other end that plus into the laptop. I would enclose the variable voltage converter with a case (so you do not lose any smoke that might contained in it) -- just think of it as your power brick for your laptop. Effectively that is what it is. I use this very system in my off grid setup to charge my 18V and 40V power tool batteries. Love the channel.
Clark Always a pleasure seeing your videos! Fair winds and thank you!
You're very welcome Tim.
Please consider sharing links. I'd like more people to see my ideas.
Yes, please. More on the dinghy video bilge pump. Might need it for the dinghy's fishfinder :) Thanks, so much.
I don't really know what you mean??
Like how I use a switching power supply to regulate from the solar panel to the battery?
This is perfect. It is so crazy to covert power for the many portable devices that we all have.
Perfect! I am doing a test at the dock unplugged, and I need to turn on the inverter to charge my laptop. Then I found this video! I appreciate all you guys do to help us!
I’ve said it before but your content hands down is why I’m so good with my boat…. I will be following your design on my yacht. Thanks
Thanks Mike.
Would you consider sharing my links with friends and on forums and such?
@@Clarks-Adventure of course and I live at marina so constantly I mention these videos.
Thanks Mike
Clark delivers again!!
Thanks David. Nice of you to say.
Since seeing Emily I know you are a genius 😮
Mr. Clark, I am impressed with your constant willingness to help your community (Sailing/Boating). You have discovered a way to apply your engineering degree and skills to both sides of the equation -- private sector (commercial products to support your lifestyle, i.e. BankManager) as well as open source information. I am also a engineer (EE/PhD & ME/MS) and enjoy surfing both sides of the wave. For many haters out there, and as we all know there are many, I believe it would aid your message to expand on your academic credentials. Also, for those willing to risk their expensive laptop or monitors on your presentation, it would boost confidence to know you are speaking with some degree of foundation. Personally, I am a fan, your technical post are always informative and deliver value. I hope to press the flesh with you and Em one day. Perhaps I will run across you at the Boat Show in MD this October. I recently ran across a t-shirt by Brittney & Beau (RUclips) that said -- "Sailing is the most expensive way to get somewhere for free." Gees, this is so true. I wish you and Em the greatest success in your private sector ventures. If you and Em would like to connect, please leave me a comment and I will reach out.
I didn't realize they made buck converters that big. My only experience with them was when I built an enclosure for my 3D printer. I have a 12V AC/DC power supply to power the arduino nano, exhaust fan, and LED strips, and used a small buck step-down converter to provide 5V to things like the temperature and humidity sensor, control knob, etc.
Clark I’ve seen your channel recommended many times and finally YT algorithm fed it to me. Great video!
Hope you subscribed and are enjoying our back catalogue.
As usual your video is wonderful, useful and well made. Is there a video on the build of the your portable battery? If not, I, fir one would love to see one.
I'm going to build a 360ah battery up in a month or so. Basically the same thing but this one is a handy size, maybe..
Thanks Clark. I don't need anything like this right now but I can see possibilities down the road. I did find something at Goodwill that does pretty much the same thing with a bunch of different ends for about $6 but I think it only puts out something lkne 900mA, so not a whole lot of power, but the ends may come in very useful. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
I don't know what it is but I just went solar and I am finding answers to all my questions including your video on these converters and this has been very informative
Thank you sir!
You are very welcome.
Please consider sharing links.
Great video, as always! Please keep making these videos. More and more and more on electrical stuff!!! Thank you!
You can DIY but there are also very inexpensive universal 12V laptop chargers with a car plug.
Alternatively most new laptops can be charged through the USB C port and even if you don't have a 12V car socket, you most certainly have a USB socket.
Please share a link for one that can deliver 240 watts
@@Clarks-Adventure 90W is the best I've seen. That should be enough for most cruisers. Not everyone is editing videos.
Always a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks Skip.
Share the links??
Thank you so much, Clark! ❤ I've had one of these converters for a while and have been scared to use it.
Well the smoke stayed in mine. I expect it will stay in yours.
I just started following you Clark and very much enjoying your videos. Having lived in my RV for the past 22 years this video especially interested me. I've often thought about how I could bypass running my inverter while using my computer and now I know how to do it. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks Lonnie,
How about sharing our video links with people in the RV community. There is a lot of crossover.
In fact we did a 3 month truck camper trip last summer. We recorded it. But views were so low we stopped publishing. Hard to break into a new group
Great video, wish I had been able to watch this a couple years ago before tasking one of these wonder boards with charging my ebike off my truck battery while driving. Your explanation would have saved some experimentation and it looks to be the exact same board which was purchased from Amazon. Keep the videos coming.
GREAT video. Thank you.
While most 12V USB sockets don't have a boost converter, we have some on our batteries that do. So all on all of our batteries you can charge laptops at 65W at up to 20V. Not super fast, but sufficient.
By the way, I just discovered your channel, I really like it!
I visited your site.
Want to carry BankManagers?
Simply put, AWESOME info!! Thanks
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in
@@Clarks-Adventurefyi the Amazon link worked but errors when adding to cart with coupon … probably nothing you can do but I tried multiple times and same error
Yeah, I just chose a link that looked good. I'm not selling them so I have no control.
If this was helpful please share links around.
@@Clarks-Adventure actually, I shared a link last week to a friend building out his sprinter van. And he is an EE lol! Your type of videos are why the internet was invented, people sharing to help other people!
Love your electrical and electronics videos.
Thanks
Yup..you a natural engineer, buddy. Good job.
Very good, kind of instructive video. Love it. Way to go Clark. Thanks much on behalf of all "down to Earth" sailors
Awesome video. Thanks so much!!!
Thanks for sharing! Doing a little Arduino project on the boat and preferred running off the start batteries. I was concerned about the voltage drop when starting the engines and the 14+ volts when changing. Nano 33 IOT accepts 3.3 to 21 volts V in. So there must be a buck converter or similar circuit on the Nano board? The on line PDF schematic for the Nano was over my head.
I think the mano uses the old cheaper device. Easy to tell. If you feed it a high voltage and a component runs real hot. If so better to use a switching supply to bring the voltage down to close to the final target. Uses less power.
Hi your so good at bringing things down to my level ...Cheers .
You seem a lot better health wise .
Carry on with the party ...but make sure you tidy up before she returns ,
I bet Emily left you with a list ?😏
Incredible video AGAIN…. Learned so much!
Awesome, thank you!
I love this content! Now I want to build a battery box like you have. Do you have a video on how to do that?
No, there didn't seem to be much interest when I mentioned it before.
I might bring it up in an upcoming video where I will build a 360ah battery.
@@Clarks-Adventure +1 to this. Great for portable power. Curious the overall cost/efficiency advantages. No doubt much better than retail units.
@EmilyAndClark
I'd like an video about the battery box as well...
@@Clarks-Adventure I'd like an video about the battery box as well...
Yes this circuits are very handy! But use varistors or suppressor diodes to protect yourself and the Laptop. Only one drop of saltwater can couse a really bad malfunction on this device. It can produce or let through more then 80 Volts. Keep in mind ignition coils work in a similar way.
This circuits. You mean THESE circuits… Right??
Sorry for my bad English! Yes, I mean these step up and step down (or buck boost) dc dc converters on these very compact uncased circuit boards that you can order very cheaply in China. I also own some of these boards and am now faced with the task of accommodating them in a waterproof but heat-dissipating housing. Greetings from Germany with Google Translator!
Hyperchannel… I was only teasing about the grammar… I make more mistakes that ever now at 78 years old… AND I FIND I am Soooo behind in my EBONICS & Pigeon English too
Thanks for correcting me! I stopped watching TV because it takes too much time. I wanted to at least keep my English up a bit and found this channel here on youtube, among other channels like "Sailing SV Delos", "White Spot Pirates", "Vet Tails' Sailing Chuffed".... Now my time goes that way.
@@hyperchannel4048 …. You just gave me some more YT Options I had never heard of… Thanks… Checking several out now..
Clark your amazing, always love how informative your videos are.
Great video Clark. Neat toys and good fun. Really enjoyed it.
Thanks mike
Thanks so much, Clark. I will watch this again after lunch and probably several times when we actually do it :) Our laptop is 19.0V and 7.89A, 150W. So, no worries about the power supply sensing when the battery is full? The battery takes as much as it needs and that's it. Correct? Ours is for an expensive editing laptop, too, so just want to make sure it won't fry. We set the voltage to 19 and that's basically it besides getting the plug's polarity correct. Seems too easy :) Another thing.... Does the potentiometer stay set? Will the constant movement of the boat cause it to slip? Thanks again for making this video. 👍
Regulation it on the laptop.
Yes it stays out pretty well. You will see when you mess with yours.
Nice video. Very useful and I need to make one for me. Also, I really need a portable power supply like yours. Can you do a build video? (I do not want to buy a commercial unit.) Your dinghy use is right on for me, also general use for camping, storms, outages, etc. Your consideration is appreciated, but if not interested, any reference to another build video that you like would also be appreciated. Thanks!!
I'm about to build a 360ah battery from cells.
Basically the same process except for the case.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to your video!
Well cool, super training video! Thanks so much
Hi Clark, great video. I have a Dell laptop which unfortunately uses 3 wires, an outer and a pin but also an inner sleeve on the outer ring. The 3rd wire uses some kind of active sensing to determine what power adapter is in use, I suspect it's a serial comm.
The point being that if the laptop can't see this signal it will not charge, it will fortunately still use the available power to operate, just will not charge.
Off hand I can't remember which contact does which. Just a note for any prospective Dell users.
Yes. Some manufacturers do that.
I have found that sometimes if you plug in the power supply before booting you can bypass this issue.
@@Clarks-Adventure Maybe sometimes, sadly my Dell interrogates the PSU in the Bios during bootup and intact displays a boot message that the charger could not be identified.
This is not to negate in any way the excellent video you provided which will work absolutely perfectly for many products. Sadly not all Dell laptops, which may still work but won't increase battery charge.
I do so hate it when manufacturers in-build proprietary mechanisms to prevent the use of 3rd part add-ons.
Yes mes too
him: this is my handy dandy battery pack I built years ago
TSA: no, sir, your gonna have to drop your pants.
Thank you! I really appreciate your informative videos.
You're very welcome
Been watching your great educational vids! I play with these Chinese SMPS too. One big nasty side effect of these boards and nearly all cheaper Chinese inverters is they have little RFI filtering. Saves $ of course to implement it. Quick way to find out if your power supply/inverter is noisey as far as EMI/RFI emissions is to find an old skool portable AM transistor radio and scroll the dial on AM. Have radio about 6 to 10 feet away from tested device. If you hear buzzing, squealing, and no nearby broadcasting stations, you have a major interference problem! I've had to invest in outboard RFI suppression circuits for both DC/DC converters and my 120 volt inverters. Even my roof top solar uses grid tie inverters that dumped a ton of crappy RFI back into the AC house power lines! After installing good suppression boxes, the interference went way down! I'd sure put a low voltage suppression board on the output of that laptop boost converter to help deliver cleaner power to your laptop. They can be found on eBay and Amazon for under $10.00. The larger capacity 120vac ones can run from $16.00 to $25.00 depending on the current ratings.
Good advice
A buck/boost converter, been using them for years. in DC applications and AC its known as a transformer, Industrial Electrician.
The nav laptop is a real drain atm. Like to know what the consumption savings is for an appropriate sized inverter and ac power block to the dc-dc. I was going to do it one way or another. Long ago the auto air adapters were not very efficient.
Great video Clark... How about USB-C powered devices? Is there a solution?
I go into detail in a comment below but that product exists on Amazon. Slow. Something like this. LISEN 2-Pack USB C Car Charger Adapter Fast Charge, 48W All Metal Cigarette Lighter USB Charger Smallest Flush Fit Car Charger USB C for iPhone 14 Pro Max 13 12 Galaxy S23/22 Pixel iPad Pro-Black a.co/d/8IAw0Iw
Perhaps it went over my head, but what was the efficiency comparison?
You know I didn't check.
My inverter is 3kw so I'm sure it's standby power is scary.
Your milage will vary
Seems like you could have “main DC” at higher voltage (36 or 48) to minimize voltage drop then use buck converters for legacy 12v or lower voltage applications, but would complexity outweigh advantages?
Lots of European boats are 24v and most land based (not automotive) are 48v.
It has its advantages and is becoming a better idea as there is more choice in appliances (ironically due to switching power supplies)
Most laptops from brands like Dell and HP typically require a three-wire power connection.
These wires are:
1- Ground: This wire is for grounding the electrical circuit.
2- Positive Voltage: Usually 19.5 volts, this wire supplies the primary operating voltage to the laptop.
3- Identification/Communication Wire: Often around 15 volts, this wire is used for communication between the power adapter and the laptop to ensure compatibility and proper functioning.
However, your power supply only offers a two-wire connection, providing:
1- Ground (negative)
2- Positive voltage
There is no option for a third wire for communication or identification, which may lead to compatibility issues with laptops that require this feature.
I use a usb-c car charger from Samsung
It do 45watt on usb-c and the laptop charge from it and even use it.
I use it on my boat .
Samsung model number EP-L5300
When that's enough power seems like a great way to go.
@@Clarks-Adventure a lot of basic laptops or google chrome boek do not use a lot.
If you have a game laptop wel than you have to go for special charger.
It still use a 12volt plug like in a car .
But go up to 90watt .
A charger up to 65 watt.
VAUTO_USBC65W brand Sygnosis
Hi Clark. Enjoyed this item. Maybe look at installing but the device appears to be "open", with no cover. So just wondering where you'd site this - even for example shown - using a laptop. I presume you mount it somewhere around nav station? Hidden away to protect parts and from inquisitive inspection.
I tend to screw things like this to a bulkhead, as you say, near the nav station. I have a place under the chart locker.
But in honesty we have plenty of electricity. I'm still using the inverter here. I have a lot of projects going on and since even while running the AC at night we dump extra power it's just not worth my time.
But I bought a suitable boost converter and did the video because others would benefit. I've used these on Temptress in the past with good power savings.
For devices less thirsty than computers, I use USB-PD. For DC devices that don't talk USB-PD I use cables that have the negotiator circuits in the cable.
But while USB-PD can theoretically match the 18V/90W that my computer power supply outputs, the beefiest USB-PD I've been able to find that can be powered by 12V has a max of 65W. So the Nuc that's my desktop and my laptop have their own power.
I should have mentioned that. Great point
Cool video. What about the other adjustment screws? Do you have to tweak them?
Shouldn't. But if you hit an amp ceiling twiddle the cc potentiometer
Just spent a week in Desolation Sound and yes the thought did pop into my head: "why am I using an inverter for nothing more than my lap top and son's phone?" Mostly an idle thought because more cruising to do next week :) However, This was something on my todo list to investigate. So thank you for doing the research for me already ;) The next question would be... what style DC plug should I install in a bulkhead to plug into? It seems to me the standard cig lighter plugs, aside from not handling even 5 amps very well might get mistaken for 12V use. While it would be possible to use the little barrel connector like the laptop does, they seem kind of flimsy (from the guitar stomp box building I have done). There are bulkhead mountable anderson outlets but quite large (I was thinking of using one of those for the battery our dinghy runs on). Anyway, great video, interesting as always.
Hey there! Do you know of where to get a case for one of these? Having exposed electronics flating around like that doesn't seem terribly safe.
Anyone with a 3d printer
Great info. Thank you. How much battery power do you think you save by doing this rather than using an inverter?
In my case a bunch as my inverter is huge
Your mileage may vary
Great hack. Can this also bee done with the MagSafe connector for Mac computers?
Power is power.
But I don't know anything about Apple. Just not a fan.
Really good idea! One piece of advice I would give is, if you only use the power of those laptops to video edit and not play games, I would suggest getting an M1 MacBook if you have the budget. They are really efficient. I have used a M1 MacBook Air since 2021, I don't do video edits but mostly CAD and some Excel stuff. It uses about 5-8 Watts while surfing the web and doing mundane stuff and about 12 Watts when playing games or designing in CAD (Autodesk). As far as I know, they are 2-3 times faster than intel processors in video editing, something with the architecture of the chips.
They also use USB-C to charge which is a huge bonus. So I just installed a 12V outlet with native USB 3.0 and USB-C to charge all my devices on board. No need to have many cables, 2 is enough and as with the more efficient laptop, I can use a smaller battery.
Yes that is quite a processor.
But I just hate the apple approach. Closed architecture is just wrong. Company squashes innovation and relies on marketing.
I was an apple guy when the II+ was the thing but jumped away when they closed things and went Mac.
So I'd have to put Linux on it and that is just too much work.
My Dell latitude from 2018 has USB C charging so I use a 12 v car adapter with 90 Watt USB C port
I just went to Radio Shack and bought a cheap voltage converter that converts my boats 12 volts to the required volts of my laptop
How many watts?
@@Clarks-Adventure it’s 60 watts. Has a small adjustable switch for output voltage. I set mine to 17 volts to match the required voltage for my older MacBook Pro. It’s been working just fine for years. I did however make an adapter for the MagSafe plug adapter
Glad it's working. Seems like a good solution.
I needed a bit more power for this laptop. Lots of options out there
So that’s why the cigarette 65w adaptor i took apart had a coil in it. I took it apart because I blew it by feeding +/- back to front. I assume they all dislike that treatment . The cheap ones abound in the last few months, they seemed more of a rarity a year ago.
Yes,
For those the limiting factor is the cigarette lighter plug itself. Can't run 250 watts through one without it melting.
So I think that's why they aren't selling well. Computers are a bit more hungry of late.
@@Clarks-Adventure yes forgot to mention it was usbc which simplifies things greatly , as voltage will be 20 preset I expect , 20v at 65w was ok for my dell . But it does seem a big ask for a device the size of a cigarette plug, the replacement I bought is an external 12v brick, I hope to not take that apart but I expect it looks similar inside to your demo . Just need someone now to invent a 12v space heater that draws little current and then i can type and be warm. Laws of physics are against me there😁
That's an interesting thought.
USB c charging is expected to be slow by the PC. It's actually a digital negotiation before the voltage is stepped up from 5 to 12v so a bit much for DIY but someone should sell one of these if they aren't already.
And the plugs are universal of course!
@@Clarks-Adventure Please consider making a video for a USB-PD solution that can charge from a DC input? Many laptops now use USB-C connections to charge, and recommend USB-PD power supplies rated at 100W. The product you've linked earlier in the comments is rated at 65W, and it's quite likely that it can't handle that amount of power for long.
@@Clarks-Adventure Maybe another choice for a video would be how to modify an existing USB-PD charger that takes AC input into one that takes DC input. The current batch of chargers use the USB-PD 3.0 standard, which negotiates up to 20V and 100W supplied to the device. The newest version of the standard, USB-PD 3.1, goes up to 48V and 240W.
Fantastic!!!
Thanks
Thanks Clark. I was already looking into do this same thing. Did you do any testing to see how many watts you use when connected to the inverter (DC-AC-DC) vs when using the switched power supply. Your laptop is rated for 240W. It would be interesting to see how many it is actually using when you are rendering and have a low battery when connected to AC vs DC. My ASUS power supply is rated at 19.5v @ 9.23A or 200W so pretty similar.
Also, do you have any recommendations on a duplex plug to allow the chord to be changed from one power supply to the other?
Yes I do have a favorite connector for this kind of thing
I bought a bunch so I have them.. don't know what they are called but I have plenty
But to answer your question I had to know what they are called....
45minutes of fruitless research later ...
Get some xt30 connectors.
Or better xt60
Oh and share links to my videos!
Thanks for the good ideas. Why don´t you use a car adaptor for your Laptop? I use these to create 19V out of 12V.
I haven't seen one that can produce 250 watts
@@Clarks-Adventure correct, but which Laptop needs 250 W? The Adapter are up to 90W, which is enough for mine.
Great. And 8d use the store bought in your situation.
Ours really does suck down the power at times.
Exelent Video.
Thanks
Wouldn't be surprised if the laptops also have some regulators for input.
Oh yeah
Nice discussion but was hoping to hear some facts about the realized power losses using an inverter vs a DC to DC converter and what this means for a typical cruiser in terms of house bank consumption. I.e. how material are the losses per hour of computer use? Also ironic that the computer itself needs only ~4V which means yet another loss internal to the computer.
The computer has a switching power supply inside so not that bad but yes lots of power conversion.
I guess I should have given numbers but my inverter is so big and inefficient at low power I just thought it wasn't a fair comparison.
Otherwise known as boost Dc to Dc converters. Boost means it goes up from 12 to say 20.
Hi Clark. Great video thanks. Did you have to adjust the current? Wondering how you test that if it’s more than most VOM can handle safely?
The laptop won't pull more than it needs.
If you set the max current lower the power supply board will lower its voltage.
No I left mine set for max.
@@Clarks-Adventure ah! Found the thread to attach too. I know this is a year old but my curiosity wanted to see if there was a voltage drop under laptop load and although I understand your comment about no need to limit the current, I just wanted to see what current the laptop was pulling under full load.
I'm not on the boat right now. Seems like it was about 10a at 13v??
@@Clarks-Adventure wow! Thanks for the instant answer! Man you are supposed to be resting & healing sir.
I hope you are doing great and the weather is nice where you are at. Beautiful morning here on the Gulf Coast of Florida.
Hey Clarke. This has put my mind at ease for my laptop. I had one of these a while back now and have since lost it. Im curious, do you need to adjust the CC pot at all or just the CV pot. During testing the output seemed erratic when trying to match the amps and voktage required. I am by no means an electronics specialist, just pick bits up along the way with a very basic understanding
I need 180w 9.3amps and I thought that was juicy!
Thanks for the video. Super helpful :)
No need to limit the current.
The laptop won't draw more then it needs
An absolute necessity. The only potential (pun not intended) trouble comes with certain laptop brands that use a third sensing pin in the plug to communicate with and identify their charger being an official one before accepting any current from the plug..! Such brands are best avoided.
Yes. I seem to have one of those issues with my computer.
I found after filming that if I plugged it in before booting all was well but if I booted the laptop and then plugged in my boost converter it wasn't able to charge the laptop.
So I just plug it in before booting. Works for me with this particular computer.
I have the exact same problem with my Dell Inspiron laptop computer. I've got a great buck converter and cable purchased, but without a resistor and a lead to the center pin there's no hope according to research. It wasn't as easy as "get this exact one" and "put it exactly here", but I saw someone do it a long time ago on a video. It seemed just a bit over my level of wanting to spend to experiment. I just started getting more and more solar panels, batteries, and bigger equipment over time so I can use the laptop more and more.
When I tried, it did show up as connected to power, but not only would it not charge the laptop battery, it would actually draw from the battery as it wasn't accepting enough current to even operate. I ended up damaging my sound card trying to solve a side effect of a buzzing being picked up through the headphone jack on an analog DC audio amplifier while connected to this DC to DC adapter. This could've been completely my fault crossing a connection, though if not for the buzzing I'd not have had to dig around causing a major problem instead.
Excellent vid, Clark! I’d think that, as an example: 24v battery system, one could distribute to a few choice locations in the boat, then set up a buck converter to something like a USB bus, to provide appropriate power for, say, computer and devices. I’m curious to understand what’s required between converter and USB ports (multi) to allow for different device requirements across these USB ports? A converter for each port? Or is there circuitry best suited as distributor?
I have several USB plugs (4) connected to one buck converter set to 5v
Be careful as some battery chargers backfeed 8v or so after they finish
Hey Clark, Thanks so much for the content, your knowledge makes me nervous! Just a heads up, I was looking at some of your recomendations on Amazon and noticed that you still approve the solar vent... that you later dislike..."Failed months after the first saltwater wave hit it. I've been living aboard and cruising for 30 years (Emily and Clark's Adventure on RUclips). This is a bad product. It's motor isn't protected from salt. I have had to cut it to prices and reworked the electrics and replace the fan. Not worth the effort! But there seems to be nothing good available anymore.
I'm going to rework my 30 year old Necro marine bronze vent. It will be less work and I'll end up with something good"'
Thanks we will remove it
@@Clarks-Adventurefor f0 egg go r NC😅😊r
Hi Clark, I run a 12V 0.027 amp computer fan directly wired to my 12 V led battery to vent my battery and diesel lazaret. Is this ok ?
Sure, why not. As long as you replace the power that's what batteries are for
Great thanks and great video on the subject of powering directly from the 12 V battery, I will put that to use on many devices. Easy enough to do right away!!
Great channel Clark. So much practical info. You are a great teacher. What laptop would you recommend for video editing. I'm in need of an up grade.
I just bought an Asus tuf 15 inch based on the Ryzen 7940hs
www.ebay.com/itm/195743963053?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pnvsdb3uq9o&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Zp5jgUhScS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Seems a good choice just now as long as you don't want a bigger screen
I've also been thinking about this before for an desktop computer on the boat. Just because laptops are so annoyingly loud and I need a larger screen anyway. But wouldn't it have made sense to show the real difference of the PC working from the standard AC converter and this thing? I mean measuring the amps going into the ac converter and comparing that with the new one.
I also have a desktop type computer running direct DC. Big savings there I expect.
It uses crazy low power even with it's monitor.
The "savings" of not using an inverter is a function of the power consumed by your inverter. Our main inverter is a 3kw. The smart way to use an inverter would be to use a "just big enough" one.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sounds great! What is the standard suggested power supply for yours? I believe mine is an 800 W due to the graphics card which is needed for CAD work. Plus the monitor of course. How did you protect the PC from saltwater damp? I imagine the cooling quite difficult in an kind of watertight box. Or do you rely on your air conditioning removing the salty air? How long do you have it in use like that? The NAS you mentioned wants to be protected as well...
Wow I have been running on solar and inverter for over three years now, how do I get to buy that piece of a device here in South Africa
Ebay
Question I got a MSI Stealth GS77 laptop that uses a usb type charging port how do you find the right cord for that because the usb is not like a normal usb port its hallow inside as appose to the normal ones which have a small inner part?
I don't know
Are theses converters safe, to be left alone. I had one to keep 12 v at 14 for alarm system. Worked well when I used it I was going to use them to keep voltage at 12v for led relays and lighting.
Sure. But test the install and make sure you don't use it wrong.
Do you run into corrosion problems on the cheap boards without potting or coatings, or do you have tricks to minimize that?
They have a solder mask or solder on the traces. That's the big problem.
Really I have had much of an issue. But conformal coating comes in spray cans
@@Clarks-Adventure I do use spay versions of conformal coating, works fine (I need it for my work so I always have it in stock.) but my boat is pretty dry inside, upto now not a problem.
@@Clarks-Adventure Do you mean "haven't had"? Do you recommend conformal coating? Do you spray it over all of the electronics in the boost converter?
I would like to have seen 2 meters connected. 1 for current. The other for voltage. When charging, we would see amps been drawn. Sometimes we would see a Voltage drop. Ultimately when the current time the amps, we see watts!
You should consider an apple silicon macbook for you next laptop, the battery life/efficiency is amazing and you can charge just off 12 usb PD chargers. With my M1 14" macbook pro I'll often do a day of photo/video editing on battery and still have battery left. My main charger is only AC 100w, but that can charge my mbp to something like 80% in 30 minutes, for an overnight charge I sometimes even just use a 10-20w phone charger.
Yep apple has the best chip just now.
But I'm not an apple guy anymore. I left when they closed the architecture with the Mac. Bad for users, bad for technology. Great for marketing.
@@Clarks-Adventure Fair, this macbook is my first apple product since I had an iPhone 5s, didn't think I would ever go back, but for my media work the mbp is just too practical to turn down.
What would the minimum ah of the 12v battery have to be to charge a laptop with this device?
How many ah is the battery you are charging?
If you can't do the math go by mass.
If your charging battery weighs 10x the laptop battery expect it to charge it about 10x. That's not exactly but it's in the ballpark
@@Clarks-Adventure its for a 5700 mah dell laptop. ? I want to get the minimum 12v battery that will charge the laptop
Your laptop battery charges at about where a 12v LiFePO4 discharges voltage wise so you can compare just ah.
So 100ah of big battery / 5.7ah of laptop battery * .80 for losses gives like 14
@@Clarks-Adventure i am grateful for that
Hi Clark, we have the Desk Tops Personnel Computers witch has 110V / 220 V 600 Watts fonts. Can I bypass the AC "area" and supply 12 V DC and have the same output ?
I am a Civil Engineer and do not understand these micro circuits.
Your computer requires multiple voltages out of its power supply. I wouldn't do it DIY as some of these have to be very accurate.
There are 12v in power supplies for desktop machines. I use one to power a machine on Temptress.
Look at automotive computer power supplies.
In short they are made and work fine.
Maybe I should show mine??
@@Clarks-Adventure Yes, please. The idea is to have a PC on a boat. I know you worked in the IT area, me too, IBM mainframes MVS/XA/ESA, CAD/CAE/CAM implementation at VW Brazil. I like the Intel RST technologie available on PC mother boards. I use it as a backup tool. I have two SSDs. If I have any problem... Virus... etc. Just shutdown, disconnect the one in use and the IRST boats at the other one. I can reconnect "the bad" SSD with the PC ON, and IRST asks if I want to copy the SSD in use to the one just reconnect. After that the system automatically puts it online and puts offline the one that was in use.
You can also just buy a mac mini and remove the power supply and run straight from 12v DC. mines been going for 5 years. oh and my monitor runs straight 12v dc
I lose my train of thought nearly as fast as the switching power supply transistor!
Asking for the dingy video bilge pump !!!!
I don't really know what you mean??
Like how I use a switching power supply to regulate from the solar panel to the battery?
@@Clarks-Adventure Yeap want to see a video on how you do that
Top
I have 200ah lithium
Is that enough to run same setup?
You mean to power a laptop?
YES
I think I'm confused
@@Clarks-Adventure yessir
I always use my generator because of the consumption
Well a 200ah Li should run your laptop for ages
Hey Clark,
Where did you get your computer cord plug at? The 6mm X 3.7mm plug 🔌
Ebay
I'm not sure if you have seen the Type C USB cables that have the ability to directly negotiate voltages from USB PD power supplies and have barrel jacks at the other end. I saw them on @AndreasSpiess channel here ruclips.net/video/vLUUn88OXx8/видео.html.
Just another tool in the toolbag!
Yes for the usb-c chargeable devices great. Some devices need more power to run continuously.
Both good choices for the right need
How the electronics is wired is one important part of the problem, but how you case it and mount it is equally important.
I'm certain you don't just leave it lying loose.
Usually I just screw it to the wall in some non visible place
@@Clarks-Adventure Do you just leave the cable dangling? Or do wire up a jack of some sort?
To the battery, run them nice
To the laptop, dangle.
If you want a case that's why guys buy 3d printers. Ask around, you have a friend with one.
Remember that most of these devices from China are rated at for example 20A max. This means that if your input voltage is 12v and output voltage is 20v your limit would be the lowest of the two making it 12v*20A = 240W instead of 24v*20A = 480W.
To make a example of a possible setup:
- 12v battery bank
- 10A @ 19v requirement for the device you want to power.
- DCDC buckboost specified to be capable of 15A.
Now lets see if we are in range.
Device requires 10A @ 19V = 10*19 = 190W
Input into DCDC buck boost 12v so we take 15A * 12V = 180W so here we go over the rating by 10W (or 0.83A if you prefer. = 10W/12V) of what the DCDC buck boost is rated at.
If you are unsure about it go with one of the devices that are "constant current / constant voltage" as they would regulate both voltage and current and make sure neither goes above what it's set to and risk getting overloaded.
You also have lots of devices on these sites that claim much larger spec's than what they are actually rated for, so try to oversize them with 20-30%. Some also have a much lower efficiency-rating at the top 10% of it's max current so a going with a higher rating may be beneficial in multiple ways.
Putting a fast-acting fuse on the output (to your computer) would probably also be recommended with cheap stuff from China as some of the cheap ones can have a horrific failure-mode. For the input it would probably be good with a fuse too, but more to protect the batteries from a short.
Where is the laptop power supply made? Not China....LOL
Yep.
But Patric has a point. I often say things like this contactor is rated for 250 Chinese amps.
@@borys2767 When HP, Dell etc order things to be produced in China they have strict specs and they do testing they they fulfill the requested specs and do actual quality-control.
When you buy random things from aliexpress there is often zero quality-control and almost never any testing that it fulfills the listed specifications. Lots of products even have contradictory specifications listed stating insane values in some sort of attempt to trick someone into a sale.
Where i work we do produce quite a bit in China, but everything is according to our schematics and with our PCB layouts and strict component sourcing to try and make sure no counterfeit parts are used. We have ripped up quite a few contracts where producers deviated. We have also gotten burned with produced products not fulfilling the specs due to non-approved cost-savings, costing us quite a bit of $.
Guess what happens when they use a counterfeit electrolytic capacitor that has a 30% failure rate within a year.... *Huge* warranty costs.
You can still buy stuff from there that will work fine, but you usually have to go with a over-spec'ed product. If it has a good rating it's probably less than 5-10% risk that it will fail within a year or two. For the price you can usually buy two for when one of them fail. If it's from a seller that has been on the platform for many years and does not have too many bad rating you might even get a fairly ok product from time to time.
You kept touching the converter. I kept wincing, waiting for you to get shocked, but you never did. Besides experience, how do you know what you can touch, and what you can't touch when it is plugged in. I would expect you couldn't do the same thing with an inverter. Is that because of AC and higher voltage? What determines which parts have the potential to cause harm?
Yep. Life is easier when you are an engineer
I wish that we could just use 12v for everything in life considering that everything runs on 12v, even monster desktop PCs, run 12v, 5v, and 3.3v respectively.
Great video...now: " how to power Starlink without inverter !?"
Your wish is my command....
boondocker.io/products/dishy-rv-power-supply?discount=everlanders&rfsn=7157873.4b72b38&subid=1
I will second that, Everlanders did a good job of setting things up in the RV. Same idea, they just have the luxury of not being in a salty marine environment.
I can use this on my school bus
Sure can
Great job 8-days later and this unit now costs $25
I guess that happens when they see a burst in sales.
Jack black?