Beautiful build man. At first when you started the decorative wrap I was skeptical. But the finished product... right on the money. Gorgeous rod, a true work of art
nice job on it. found this because i was considering an MHX blank after hearing about them since they came out. ...it is a toss-up between mudholes or the shx blanks made for bingham. ONe thing you should do is push a hole in the rod finish bottle with an awl and shove the syringe in there to both draw it out and use as a cap. I used to suck it out the way you do but have not looked back since switching. you draw it out by inverting the bottle like filling a medical needle. nothing gets on the outside o fthe syringe or all over your fingers. you also draw fewer/no air bubbles into the syringe. put the hole near the bottle's top corner edge but not on the corner.
Hi, I really enjoy your rod-building videos. Wondering if you could tell me how to wrap the junctions in a travel pole? (multi-piece) I've looked a few store-bought ones, and it doesn't seem too fancy - just a wrap with epoxy for the last inch of the outer blank - but I'm wondering if you do anything special to stop the threads from falling over the side, or anything to stop the epoxy from flowing over the edge? Thanks and happy fishing
Hi Sam. No special treatment. I normally start wrapping about 3mm (1/8 inch) from the edge which is easy to start threading and gives some room for epoxy. Apply some tension so the threads don't shift. When epoxying, keep the rod turning so the epoxy won't flow.
hi there, i have a super light jigging rod 104 grams 192cm length snapped in halve when i lost balance! the cut is very clean, can you suggest a way to fix it?
+Robbie Safadi Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, it's not easy and even if you fix it, it will lose the action and feel. What you can do is: insert a piece of blank of smaller diameter but similar taper inside the rod and glue together. Just like spigot ferrule of Scott fly rods but don't make ferrule just glue both. You have to remove the butt cap to insert the blank piece. Also, you need to wrap the joint otherwise it will split. Good luck!
Love the video! I'm building a similar 7ft travel rod and was wondering if you could let me know about your guide spacing since MHX doesn't have the information for travel rods on their website. Thanks!
iQuack Thanks. 1:37 lists guide spacings of what I worked out. Mind you these spacings only apply to this blank. Each blank model would have different spacings. Many people believes the guide spacing given by the manufacturers as the only spacings for that blank. That's not the case. I have built 100+ rods from 50kg short strokers to 1 weight flyrods. I never follow the manufacturers spacing. Here is how you do it in a nut shell. 1. Build the handle and hot glue tip top. 2. Using elastic band, tie the guides roughly where you want them. 3. Clamp the reel and string through the guides and do straightness and bending test. Straightness testing is to ensure line is straight as possible when rod is not bent. This is for good casting. Size and location of stripper guide plays big role here. Now bend the rod until it locks. Adjust the guides so the string is not touching the blank (in case of casting rod) and have smooth curvature. For good looks, the spacing should be gradual increments. 4. Tie the guides using masking tape and do a test cast. Elastic band tie is good for adjusting but not for casting. Most of these steps are shown in the video. Goodluck!
Hi, thanks for this video. Really really helpful. I was wondering how you're finding that blank and if you ever get a chance to compare it to other popular one like the tidemaster inshore. Thanks and keep up the good work!
FabioUK Cheers. I like the blank. It's quite light and straight. I am not familiar with tidemaster but I have built many rods on Rainshadow RX7 (older USA made) and St Croix 2 and 3 blanks. MHX, being high modulus blank, is lighter and crispier than ones I mentioned except may be SC3.
jman3336 Nah, LS Supreme is one of the clearest epoxies. Hardener is brownish color but once mixed with resin it gets gin clear. I used many types of epoxy but ended up with LS Supreme for 2 reasons: 1) low viscosity and thus thin build, and 2) ginclear finish.
Hi, first off- beautiful rod! I'm also interested in building a MHX travel rod. I'm curious, what weight/ length rod this is? Did you look for the parabolic curve/ spine in each piece of rod? Lastly, do you feel it's necessary to add more guides to travel rods? It's my intent to build a 7'-7'1/2" heavy/fast frog rod. Any guidance is appreciated, I think I've watched your videos 300 times.... -C
Thanks Caleb. This is 7' MH. According to MHX specs it is fast action rod. I generally build on spine for top piece. Then try to straighten the rod with other heavy pieces. In other words I prefer rod to be straight than built on spine. Building on spine for heavy sections of a multi-piece rod is not important in my opinion. As you can see from the video, I curve test to select number of guides and spacings. I have a few single and multi piece casting rods and they have similar number of guides if the length and action is similar. Number of guides is more related to action of the blank than pieces. Hope this helps. Cheers
Thanks so much for your info! Would you mind telling me how many/ size guides you have on this rod? Perhaps a approximate layout chart? If it's easier for you please feel free to email me mrcalebmcculler@gmail.com Thanks so much! P.s. Pictures are more than welcome
For your 7' heavy/fast rod, it should have similar number of guides but position maybe different. Best way is temporarily wrap the guides with rubber band or masking tape and load test. Check the line runs at its minimum deflection angle when it's fully flexed and adjust by sliding guides. People also do test casting but I don't think that's necessary. Once you have minimum deflection angle, technically it should cast well.
Super Bro 👌👌👍
Beautiful build man. At first when you started the decorative wrap I was skeptical. But the finished product... right on the money. Gorgeous rod, a true work of art
Thanks heaps Nicolas.
Really a great job. salute
Work of art!
Thanks!
Not bad for a beginner. Just joking that's a beautiful stick.
damnnn that's so cool. Love it Bro!!
AMAZING !!! VERY VERY NICE !!!
Thanks!
nice job on it. found this because i was considering an MHX blank after hearing about them since they came out. ...it is a toss-up between mudholes or the shx blanks made for bingham. ONe thing you should do is push a hole in the rod finish bottle with an awl and shove the syringe in there to both draw it out and use as a cap. I used to suck it out the way you do but have not looked back since switching. you draw it out by inverting the bottle like filling a medical needle. nothing gets on the outside o fthe syringe or all over your fingers. you also draw fewer/no air bubbles into the syringe. put the hole near the bottle's top corner edge but not on the corner.
nice job! I just finished doing 2 ice fishing rods.. I like your 2 color wrapping technique. I'm gonna try it on the next one.
Hi, I really enjoy your rod-building videos. Wondering if you could tell me how to wrap the junctions in a travel pole? (multi-piece)
I've looked a few store-bought ones, and it doesn't seem too fancy - just a wrap with epoxy for the last inch of the outer blank - but I'm wondering if you do anything special to stop the threads from falling over the side, or anything to stop the epoxy from flowing over the edge? Thanks and happy fishing
Hi Sam. No special treatment. I normally start wrapping about 3mm (1/8 inch) from the edge which is easy to start threading and gives some room for epoxy. Apply some tension so the threads don't shift. When epoxying, keep the rod turning so the epoxy won't flow.
Beautiful.
hi there, i have a super light jigging rod 104 grams 192cm length snapped in halve when i lost balance! the cut is very clean, can you suggest a way to fix it?
+Robbie Safadi Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, it's not easy and even if you fix it, it will lose the action and feel. What you can do is: insert a piece of blank of smaller diameter but similar taper inside the rod and glue together. Just like spigot ferrule of Scott fly rods but don't make ferrule just glue both. You have to remove the butt cap to insert the blank piece. Also, you need to wrap the joint otherwise it will split. Good luck!
Love the video! I'm building a similar 7ft travel rod and was wondering if you could let me know about your guide spacing since MHX doesn't have the information for travel rods on their website. Thanks!
iQuack Thanks. 1:37 lists guide spacings of what I worked out. Mind you these spacings only apply to this blank. Each blank model would have different spacings.
Many people believes the guide spacing given by the manufacturers as the only spacings for that blank. That's not the case.
I have built 100+ rods from 50kg short strokers to 1 weight flyrods. I never follow the manufacturers spacing.
Here is how you do it in a nut shell.
1. Build the handle and hot glue tip top.
2. Using elastic band, tie the guides roughly where you want them.
3. Clamp the reel and string through the guides and do straightness and bending test. Straightness testing is to ensure line is straight as possible when rod is not bent. This is for good casting. Size and location of stripper guide plays big role here. Now bend the rod until it locks. Adjust the guides so the string is not touching the blank (in case of casting rod) and have smooth curvature. For good looks, the spacing should be gradual increments.
4. Tie the guides using masking tape and do a test cast. Elastic band tie is good for adjusting but not for casting.
Most of these steps are shown in the video.
Goodluck!
can I buy one
why hot silicon ? :D
Hi, thanks for this video. Really really helpful. I was wondering how you're finding that blank and if you ever get a chance to compare it to other popular one like the tidemaster inshore.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
FabioUK Cheers. I like the blank. It's quite light and straight. I am not familiar with tidemaster but I have built many rods on Rainshadow RX7 (older USA made) and St Croix 2 and 3 blanks. MHX, being high modulus blank, is lighter and crispier than ones I mentioned except may be SC3.
dDerDol Man thanks man. I was indeed referring to St Croix tidemaster inshore travel (scII). I might give this blank a try soon!
Nice Job!
It's a beauty dude
dDerDol Man y didn't you use a clear epoxy?
jman3336 ?? LS Supreme is not clear epoxy?
looked yellow to me.
jman3336 Nah, LS Supreme is one of the clearest epoxies. Hardener is brownish color but once mixed with resin it gets gin clear. I used many types of epoxy but ended up with LS Supreme for 2 reasons: 1) low viscosity and thus thin build, and 2) ginclear finish.
my bad. sorry
kinda funky, should have put 1 or 2 corks after the seat.
Yes, I used to put small fore-grip but not anymore. I like this way.
Hi, first off- beautiful rod! I'm also interested in building a MHX travel rod. I'm curious, what weight/ length rod this is? Did you look for the parabolic curve/ spine in each piece of rod? Lastly, do you feel it's necessary to add more guides to travel rods? It's my intent to build a 7'-7'1/2" heavy/fast frog rod. Any guidance is appreciated, I think I've watched your videos 300 times.... -C
Thanks Caleb. This is 7' MH. According to MHX specs it is fast action rod.
I generally build on spine for top piece. Then try to straighten the rod with other heavy pieces. In other words I prefer rod to be straight than built on spine. Building on spine for heavy sections of a multi-piece rod is not important in my opinion.
As you can see from the video, I curve test to select number of guides and spacings. I have a few single and multi piece casting rods and they have similar number of guides if the length and action is similar. Number of guides is more related to action of the blank than pieces.
Hope this helps. Cheers
Thanks so much for your info!
Would you mind telling me how many/ size guides you have on this rod? Perhaps a approximate layout chart?
If it's easier for you please feel free to email me
mrcalebmcculler@gmail.com
Thanks so much!
P.s. Pictures are more than welcome
Re watching video, I see your layout chart!
For your 7' heavy/fast rod, it should have similar number of guides but position maybe different. Best way is temporarily wrap the guides with rubber band or masking tape and load test. Check the line runs at its minimum deflection angle when it's fully flexed and adjust by sliding guides. People also do test casting but I don't think that's necessary. Once you have minimum deflection angle, technically it should cast well.
My wife wants to know about the music in this video.
Sorry can't remember. I downloaded free music.
the sexiest rod I've ever seen!