As other reviews pointed out, this is essentially an electric socket wrench, not an impact wrench-- they have another version of this tool that has an impact head (it's silver). The key difference between the two is that you cannot use an impact without power as the head free-spins. The ratchet version on the other hand can be used without power as the ratcheting mechanism holds the bit in place. Why does this matter? Because it's not safe to break all bolts with an impact wrench as it's stronger and can either break the captive nuts or strip the threads if the bolt doesn't come out cleanly (like bolts set in aluminum heads). So this is a specialty tool that allows the technician to safely break the bolt with hand pressure and then spin it the rest of the way with the motor as opposed to having to back it all the way out with a manual wrench or switch to an impact after it has been loosened. If you do a lot of work with bolts that should be broken first by hand like timing covers, intake manifolds, crank sensors, generally low torque work, these are great. If you're doing a lot of brake jobs where hard to reach steel bolts are sunk into cast iron... grab the impact and don't worry about breaking it first! Nearly identical looking tool but very different purpose. Thanks for the video, it looks like a quality tool. This comment isn't directed towards the channel but more towards the viewer who would watch this video and be confused as to why it doesn't seem to work as intended.
Thanks for the thorough explanation. It seems the powered ratchet is an engine builder's specialty tool then. It speeds up assembly which is finished with a torque wrench. I suppose it could speed up disassembly too but these days you can get a compact cordless impact wrench with finer motor control. There are modes that will allow full torque initially to start loosening and then reduce torque as soon as the fastener is loosened. I wonder if these finer motor controls make it safer to use an impact wrench to disassemble engines in the scenario you describe (manually break lose, then power off). I'd wager even a compact 1/4" hex impact driver would work well in engine assembly/disassembly. Impact drivers tend to be high RPM (good for spinning ON or OFF a fastener, right or wrong?) and low-ish torque (usually rated in in-lbs, not ft-lbs). Also, because an impact driver usually uses a 1/4" hex to square anvil adapter, some torque is lost there making it "safer" to use in a engine assembly/disassembly. These are just my thoughts, I would love some input.
That is the dumbest thing I have seen anyone try to do. I mean you hit it on the head. it's not an right angle impact. He could use it like a regular ratchet if he would just pull it without depressing the trigger. Then when it is loose engage trigger. palm to face!!!!!!!
I have the Milwaukee version and wanting to just stay with kobalt. But only reason why I'm sticking with Milwaukee is strictly due to the size being so small and fits in tight areas like doing a from cover on a Cummins isx. Let's just hope kobalt makes another design to use a smaller battery and make it compact.
Assuming you're referring to the Milwaukee M12 tool, that one is quite nice with the regular 2ah battery for size, weight, and mobility, but that adds another battery platform to the mix instead of just the M18 (or any other 18/20/24v) platform.
![HUGE VALUE! Kobalt XTR 24V High Torque Impact Wrench Review [KXIW 1424A-03]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WBXnBqubWSo/mqdefault.jpg)
this and the right angel impact have been so helpful at the junkyard
As other reviews pointed out, this is essentially an electric socket wrench, not an impact wrench-- they have another version of this tool that has an impact head (it's silver). The key difference between the two is that you cannot use an impact without power as the head free-spins. The ratchet version on the other hand can be used without power as the ratcheting mechanism holds the bit in place. Why does this matter? Because it's not safe to break all bolts with an impact wrench as it's stronger and can either break the captive nuts or strip the threads if the bolt doesn't come out cleanly (like bolts set in aluminum heads). So this is a specialty tool that allows the technician to safely break the bolt with hand pressure and then spin it the rest of the way with the motor as opposed to having to back it all the way out with a manual wrench or switch to an impact after it has been loosened. If you do a lot of work with bolts that should be broken first by hand like timing covers, intake manifolds, crank sensors, generally low torque work, these are great. If you're doing a lot of brake jobs where hard to reach steel bolts are sunk into cast iron... grab the impact and don't worry about breaking it first! Nearly identical looking tool but very different purpose. Thanks for the video, it looks like a quality tool.
This comment isn't directed towards the channel but more towards the viewer who would watch this video and be confused as to why it doesn't seem to work as intended.
Thanks for the thorough explanation. It seems the powered ratchet is an engine builder's specialty tool then. It speeds up assembly which is finished with a torque wrench.
I suppose it could speed up disassembly too but these days you can get a compact cordless impact wrench with finer motor control. There are modes that will allow full torque initially to start loosening and then reduce torque as soon as the fastener is loosened. I wonder if these finer motor controls make it safer to use an impact wrench to disassemble engines in the scenario you describe (manually break lose, then power off).
I'd wager even a compact 1/4" hex impact driver would work well in engine assembly/disassembly. Impact drivers tend to be high RPM (good for spinning ON or OFF a fastener, right or wrong?) and low-ish torque (usually rated in in-lbs, not ft-lbs). Also, because an impact driver usually uses a 1/4" hex to square anvil adapter, some torque is lost there making it "safer" to use in a engine assembly/disassembly.
These are just my thoughts, I would love some input.
Fine-
But you still cannot use anything you just mentioned without pressing the trigger.
This is a ratchet video. ✌🏻
ITS A RATCHET, NOT A IMPACT WRENCH. USE REGULAR RATCHET FOR THAT OIL FILTER
That is the dumbest thing I have seen anyone try to do. I mean you hit it on the head. it's not an right angle impact. He could use it like a regular ratchet if he would just pull it without depressing the trigger. Then when it is loose engage trigger. palm to face!!!!!!!
I have never in my time as a technician seen anybody ever try to take off a canister filter with an electric tool
I appreciate all the Kobalt tool reviews, keep them coming, they're great.
Yo pull it first like a regular ratchet to loosen then depress trigger to finish it off. it didn't fail you failed to use it correctly.
I have the Milwaukee version and wanting to just stay with kobalt. But only reason why I'm sticking with Milwaukee is strictly due to the size being so small and fits in tight areas like doing a from cover on a Cummins isx. Let's just hope kobalt makes another design to use a smaller battery and make it compact.
Assuming you're referring to the Milwaukee M12 tool, that one is quite nice with the regular 2ah battery for size, weight, and mobility, but that adds another battery platform to the mix instead of just the M18 (or any other 18/20/24v) platform.
They have the extended reach one too
Where is it? I can't find it. I found this "Kobalt 3/8-inch Extended Ratchet #5332014" but i cannot find the model number.
Dude pop the bolt first then squeeze
And now 44usd at Rona in canada