Lexus SC300 AEM V2 Standalone Install guide
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- Sc300 gets a plug and play aem v2 standalone. I share how exactly I wire in the map, IAT, wideband, Boost control, and Fuel pump. I go over the pin outs in full detail and what pins go where. As always, like comment and subscribe.
AEM Installation Instructions
www.aemelectro...
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@edwar3jr / edward3jr
@purritoracing / purritoracing
OOOH BROTHER YOUR CAR, WHAT A SWEET SOUNDING SC300
Thank you!
just bought my sc, big inspiration ed
Awesome! I’m real excited for you!
Sc are the low key supras like they look good modified lol with out the rice I'm currently on my 2nd sc which is a 400
@@Singleturbo-sk9qp so dope!
Sonda great after cold start. Throw them wheels ON after tune & LET'S GO!!!
Thank you! I’ll put the wheels back on soon
i had problems with spark blow out at and after 15 psi of boost i converted to wasted spark and all is well i am pushing 20 psi of boost with no hiccups
This is good to know, I’ll probably end up doing the same Later on!
This is gonna help out a lot thanks bro
Anytime and if you have any questions about anything let me know.
Was thinking about getting an sc300 as a tuner project, but im showing the aem V2 for these cars is discontinued? Where did you get yours?
I bought this on Facebook market place.
i need to find out which wires from my stock maf i can use for my iat sensor. i have a 97 sc300 and it’s the last thing i need to install is the iat sensor
Hi Ed! Love your content as i too am going to NA-T my 95 sc300 auto. I am going AEM V2 and found your vid, what is the purpose of the re-pinning? Im a noob so couldnt really understand. I was under the impression that once i get the aem v2, im good for install turbo and plug/play then tune from my tuner.
Dude I have a noob question. When you were wiring all your sensors into the factory harness, why did you use a pin on the obd1 port instead of grounding each sensor to some random port on the chassis? And how did you do that? Did you run a brand new ground wire from each sensor and have it tapped into that one terminal
This is a great question, I believe you’re asking about sensor ground vs chassis ground. I’ll link a discussion below I found on this subject that goes real in depth. To sum it up though, the main reason for grounding these sensors to 28b instead of the chassis.
“if you ground the sensor to the engine ground, then its output is going to be offset by the ground current times the ground resistance. This is why ECUs have dedicated sensor ground wires”
Full discussion is in post 3. He gives great examples of what happens when you ground to chassis.
So when we look at the AEM v2 instructions, 28b is labeled as sensor ground, which is located in VF2 sig of the obd1 port. In my mind It was much easier to run all of the sensor ground wires there, instead of running longer wires through the fire wall and doing this on the ecu harness side. I pulled pin 28b out from the obd1 port and spliced the wires into there. Let me know if you have more questions about this.
www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/sensor-ground-chassis-ground-question
@@Edward3jr Thank you for sharing that discussion. I am now much more informed on this. Correct me if I am wrong, so you basically ran the MAP, IAT and EBC in a “star earthed” pattern to 29B.
Now did you also run the ground wire from the wideband from inside, through the firewall and to 29b as well? Since AEM UEGO comes as a kit, being the o2 wires plug into the gauge inside, with another lead of four wires going out the gauge.
(Side note, I’ve heard of AEM’s Bosch sensor going out within hours after installation, even the gauge blanking out. Have you experienced this with the red sc? Or even your 600hp sc?
@@julianbrown7613 yes this is correct, except instead of 29b I used 28B.
@@Edward3jr Yes, sorry typo error. Any input on the third paragraph of my last reply?
I didn’t realize there was a see more and missed both paragraphs. Ironically, I had an issue with my Bosch sensor. It was one of the reasons my car wouldn’t start after the initial base map. I replaced it with a new sensor and it started right up after this. But when this happens in my case I kept seeing lean fuel readings
Hey ed when u tapped ur valve covers did you delete the baffle underneath the valve covers or did u keep them there?
I reinstalled the baffles after I tapped them
@@Edward3jr oh nice how did you route your pcv hose?
@@galaxy3056 I deleted the pvc and ran a hose from the intake manifold to a vacuum block
Thanks for making these videos; was the AEM v2 your tuner's preferred ecu? I'm wondering what features most drew you to AEM
Thank you! I went with AEM v2 because it’s a very simple plug and play standalone with very minimal wiring. For my goals its plenty for what I want to make power wise. Also this is one of the simplest way you can go full standalone in this car.
Great fkn content
Thank you!
Hey Ed, I am running the same setup as you on a 1997 SC300 Non-VVTI. However, I am not getting any spark. Tested thr ignition coil and replaced it. Still no spark What pin out are you using to run the ignition?
I’m using the same factory pin out for distributor ignitions and spark. Are you still on the factory distributor or are you doing Coil on plug?
@@Edward3jr I'm still on factory coil and igniter. My car is at my buddies shop. We've tried troubleshooting and replacing parts (Igniter, coil, crank sensor) still no cigar. The car is on a stand alone AEM V2. I'm wondering if it isn't something with the ECU settings?
Question for you if I only let one pcv go to atmosphere would it idle high I have an aem v2 and I'm having an issue where it's a 200rpm high idle
Yo ed where did you find that supra midpipe that you have
Looks like the one I have has been discontinued. See if this guy still has this mid pipe facebook.com/marketplace/item/350587399584468/
@@Edward3jr Perfect, thank you!
Hey Ed, great video! Where do you plan on having the sc tuned? I’m in Essex, and plan on going NA-T soon, and will most likely go to the same shop if all goes well with your tune. Thanks
Thank you! I’m not sure yet. I’m hoping to have this all figured out soon!
@@Edward3jr did you use a base calibration on AEM tuner 3.2? I recently got a v2 as well and started playing with it pre na-t. Downloaded the software and reached the point where I could load in a base calibration with stock maf or 3.5 bar map. I however, couldn’t get my NA setup to start using the maf calibration. Wondering what you did to get your NA-T to start. Thanks
@@ryanr9858 I started with the base calibration on the first initial start. But I changed the settings and adjusted for map, fuel injector sizes, fuel pump etc… on the first start it it ran rich. And I was never able to get it to start again. That’s when I reached out to freed and they sent me a few base maps
@@Edward3jr Good to know! Thanks man!
@@ryanr9858 I wish I had more time to sit down a learn the aem tuner software. One day I’ll take a class or something.
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you!
Hey, so on my 92 I’m pretty sure my fuel pump went out and I don’t wanna put a cheap one from my work (oreillys) in and have to replace it a year later. Do you have any recommendations?
Depends on your power goals, if you’re keeping it stock put a stock fuel pump in. If you’re going to make power put something bigger in. I don’t recommend a bigger fuel pump if you’re staying stock. No point
@@Edward3jr i want to put a cx racing .81 mm turbo kit on her
@@jzz30jt54 what are you power goals. walbro 450 supports 650 hp +
@@galaxy3056 500
+
sup ed, im back in this comment section a year later to ask you where i can get pickup an aem v2?
Facebook market place is the best place to find them. I’m seeing them listed for 900-1000 on average
Link for the map sensor?