Fascinating, thanks. I have just received a new Mora hook knife that was advised as being sharp enough to work with straight out of the wrapper and you have convinced me it is not. I’ll keep that video as a tutorial. Again, cheers.
Cant understand why mora send those knives dull... Its fairly easy for them to make it sharp, and when some 'beginner' client gets it, he got no idea how to sharpen it properly and can hurt himself. Great tutorial thanks.
Very informative and easy to understand. I can see what you are doing. Thank you so so much for posting this and taking the time to show us how to sharpen and strop. :)
I use a similar method, but on the inside I only run sandpaper a few quick passes for deburring. Some of my strops, I layer news print thick and tight and staple the edges. Later when its black and flaking off, I just peel away the top layer or two and charge the fresh paper with more compound. half the time, the paper wears through and starts to get a hole right about the same time its no longer polishing and starting to flake off.
great video. thanks for the effort. what i´m wondering is how people were sharpening these blades when there were no sharpening papers around, because i sharpen my blades with stones? do you have any advice?
hey you started out carving a seasoned piece of river wood and then after sharpening worked a wet wood spoon.. no way to compare your sharpening whatsoever.. i did enjoy the lesson nontheless.. whats the best type of leather to use in your opinon,?? asking as a rookie woodworker and lover of hides and trees and steel. thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill..
Hi Sean, studying on this toppic right now... Do you do all the steps on both sides of the blade? From coarse to very fine? And in between? There seem to be some different meanings on this. Nice to hear from you and THANKS for this video...
VersHout only on the outside with this type of knife. I only use 600 or finer on the inside. The inside should have no bevel usually their is one so only fine abrasives so not to make it bigger
Just wondering..... I bought a 162 and a 164, the 164 is silver in color and the 162 has a blued look to it. Are they both the same metal? both say carbon steel in the discriptions.
As far as I know they are. They have recently started producing hook knives with a blueish colour to them, just something different in their process, not sure what. I am sure there are others out there who could enlighten us. They still come blunt unfortunately.
Thanks Sean....My Grandfather changed his name from Hellman when he came to America. I don't see the name that often. Thanks for the video it was a big help.
Various, if very blunt, course, medium and fine on the outside, on the inside only use fine grits, just to take any burr off and polish the edge. Then strop inside and out. Normal touch ups I would use 600 grit silicon carbon papers or a 1000 grit stone
Is there a reason that you prefer the sharper tip (although blunted somewhat as per your instruction) as opposed to the square tip on the two that you can choose from to buy? Thanks for the video.
I alway prefer a tapered tip, it gets in places easier than a square tip which is too wide for me and for the tool especially if you are doing deeper bowls. If you keep watching my blog I will explain why in a few months time.
enjoyed the video I like to ask you about a blade for doing spoons and such which Mora do you recommend when you are first starting out. the Mopra 162, 163, or the 164? I currently have the Mora 106 coming but want to get the curve one too. I will most likely get several different ones but what should be my first. thanks in advance
Personally I would go for the 164, but some people prefer different tools. Just make sure it is really sharp as that makes life so much easier, and you can focus on technique rather than just trying to force the tool through the wood. Remember shallow cuts, never try taking to much off in one go.
hi i have a few months old Mora 164, but i see groups of grey specs on the blade - is this some sort of rust? should i clean it with something after use?
Carbon steel is prone to rust and green wood is full of water.... Clean the blade after use with tissue or a dry cloth and then apply a layer of oil of some sort. Clean the oil off before the next use.
+hoshnasi It does not matter which side of the leather is used. I have made hundreds of strops and I choose the best side of the leather for stropping, which could be the inside or the outside.
Thanks so much for this video! I have a quick question for you, I hope you will be able to answer as I have not been able to find any resources for this issue.. I ordered a 162 but it came with a couple nicks in the blade. can you use sandpaper to wear out the nicks or should i return it?
If new it should not have nicks in it. If they are small, then as it needs sharpening to use they should easily come out. Sandpaper can be used like the silicon carbide paper is used around wooden slips, in the video. 240 grit is the coarsest paper and work done to a 1000 grit. Try and get hold of wet and dry paper otherwise known as silicon carbide paper
KimnRuss Boring 60 grit is extremely coarse....... Would ruin this blade if you used it..... The higher the grit#,the less coarse it is, and I'd start with 220 grit, maybe go up to 800 or 1000, then strop
I only use the 180 grit on the bevels, on the inside use a 600 grit or more. I would follow the 180 with a 320 - 400 then 600- 800 then 1000+ Remember that when touching up the edge start with the 300- 400 grit or higher, not the 180 grit.
***** Thanks for replying. Very helpful. My new Mora 164 just arrived and I am new at this. Do you always start with 180 grit on the bevels on a new knife, as you did in the video?
Robin Wood ist leider in Deutschland nicht zu bekommen. Mora dagegen gibt es auch in Deutschland. Falls jemand eine Bezugsquelle für Robin Wood in Deutschland kennt: bitte hier antworten
@@urmelausdemeis3495 I think you can only buy his knives from him direct. I've since moved on to Ben Orford knives which I prefer. I believe that Ben ships internationally from his web site. The Mora sloyd knives are great for the money, but the hook knives are really just trash.
lol stone age, please turn off your TV and read a Bible. sure these might be a little bit older, but I wonder how people sharpened their razor sharp crooked steel knives with non-"primitve" methods, when industrial sandpaper was not around or not affordable. what do you recommend as one of these about 6000 years old techniques? dry, smashed potter´s clay (maybe in coarse and fine) glued on a piece of leather like in medival times? i´ll have to try it anyway. God bless
Thanks for this video! I have this knife and I couldn't understand why it wasn't working well for me. I thought my technic was bad. Turns out the simplest thing; dull blade. Going top rectify this today. Cheers, Jim
Really useful video, thank you - I have just started carving spoons, and my new hook knife was not very sharp on arrival. I´m used to using carborundum stones, and had got it a bit sharper, but the emery paper works even better, and I´ve not even made a strop yet. Looking forward to better carving -- I´ve got lots of olive trees but I burnt all the prunings before the carving bug got me. I´m having a go with persimmon, and wondering about chestnut, I´ve a few spare branches of that. Avocado ?
Hi Kerry, Make a strop they really do make a big difference, unless that is you are using 5000 or 7000 grit wet and dry papers. The woods you mention are hard and can be difficult to work. I have no experience of prisimmon or avocado. Your best bet is to try them and see. Remember to make smaller cuts than to try taking bigger cuts, to save strain and injury. I have made spoons and spatulas from chestnut, it is not a wood that many spoon carvers use. Good luck and enjoy your carving.
@@SeanHellman I´ve found some finer emery, 600, 240 and 180 wet and dry, and I´ve used the 600 dry, then stropped with some polish, and the cutting and scraping is much better. I think there´s still room for improvement in my sharpening technique, and using the hook, and I feel I´m on the right path now, many thanks. My knives are made by Silkily (or something like that) but I think I´ll get a Mora 164 so I know l have every chance. Saludos from Spain.
Fascinating, thanks. I have just received a new Mora hook knife that was advised as being sharp enough to work with straight out of the wrapper and you have convinced me it is not. I’ll keep that video as a tutorial. Again, cheers.
Cant understand why mora send those knives dull... Its fairly easy for them to make it sharp, and when some 'beginner' client gets it, he got no idea how to sharpen it properly and can hurt himself. Great tutorial thanks.
Please do more videos... your enjoyable to watch
You can hear genuine joy in his voice at the end
Very informative and easy to understand. I can see what you are doing. Thank you so so much for posting this and taking the time to show us how to sharpen and strop. :)
Absolutely awesome, thank you for the demonstration! Really going to help me out
Same here!
Very good video...I just got a 162 and was wondering how to best sharpen it...
Very helpful!
Thank you!
Thank you, that's great! Now I know how to sharpen my new Mora round knive!! ✨🌹✨
i love your grinder ... great info as well im new to bushcraft/carving and in going to get that knife right after i get an axe
love your workshop, looks old school
I use a similar method, but on the inside I only run sandpaper a few quick passes for deburring. Some of my strops, I layer news print thick and tight and staple the edges. Later when its black and flaking off, I just peel away the top layer or two and charge the fresh paper with more compound. half the time, the paper wears through and starts to get a hole right about the same time its no longer polishing and starting to flake off.
Well explained and demonstrated. Thanks for sharing. Subbed. All the best from Scotland. Garry
You are clearly DA MAN!!
thank you! you made it extremely simple, as it should be
Excellent. Thank you for the knowledge!
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am just starting out and this is really helpful.
Great video, mine was dull. Wish I had such a grindstone ;-)
Nicely done!
Thanks for the tip. Maybe you could do a video on making spoons.
thank you very much .my way was not working very well.
Thanks Sean.
nder why the hook knives come blunt when everything else comes super sharp. Is it harder to mass produce?
great video. thanks for the effort. what i´m wondering is how people were sharpening these blades when there were no sharpening papers around, because i sharpen my blades with stones? do you have any advice?
Das wär wirklich Sehr interessant!
Mit welchen Mitteln haben die Menschen ihre Werkzeuge vor der Erfindung von Sandpapier geschärft !?
Thanks Sean for share...
Thank you sir!
hey you started out carving a seasoned piece of river wood and then after sharpening worked a wet wood spoon.. no way to compare your sharpening whatsoever.. i did enjoy the lesson nontheless.. whats the best type of leather to use in your opinon,?? asking as a rookie woodworker and lover of hides and trees and steel. thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill..
Very helpfull video thnx!
Video cuts off paper grits. What did you use please?
Добрый день хороший у вас ложка рез вы его сами делаете мечтаю о таком так как люблю с деревом возится
Will he be making more videos
Cool tool but very dangerous
Thanks I just bought a Mora. But, ah, I was wondering if you could tell me what kind of coat you are wearing? Is it a Harris Tweed?
Danke.
Absolut klar. Didaktisch gut.
Sehr hilfreich!
Hi Sean, studying on this toppic right now... Do you do all the steps on both sides of the blade? From coarse to very fine? And in between? There seem to be some different meanings on this. Nice to hear from you and THANKS for this video...
VersHout only on the outside with this type of knife. I only use 600 or finer on the inside. The inside should have no bevel usually their is one so only fine abrasives so not to make it bigger
Just wondering..... I bought a 162 and a 164, the 164 is silver in color and the 162 has a blued look to it. Are they both the same metal? both say carbon steel in the discriptions.
As far as I know they are. They have recently started producing hook knives with a blueish colour to them, just something different in their process, not sure what. I am sure there are others out there who could enlighten us. They still come blunt unfortunately.
Thanks Sean....My Grandfather changed his name from Hellman when he came to America. I don't see the name that often. Thanks for the video it was a big help.
What grit was you using to sharpen the hook knife whit ??
Various, if very blunt, course, medium and fine on the outside, on the inside only use fine grits, just to take any burr off and polish the edge. Then strop inside and out. Normal touch ups I would use 600 grit silicon carbon papers or a 1000 grit stone
Great Tips. TY for sharing. CHeers ;-))
Is there a reason that you prefer the sharper tip (although blunted somewhat as per your instruction) as opposed to the square tip on the two that you can choose from to buy? Thanks for the video.
I alway prefer a tapered tip, it gets in places easier than a square tip which is too wide for me and for the tool especially if you are doing deeper bowls. If you keep watching my blog I will explain why in a few months time.
***** Will do....subscribed!
What weight leather on the dowel?
enjoyed the video I like to ask you about a blade for doing spoons and such which Mora do you recommend when you are first starting out. the Mopra 162, 163, or the 164? I currently have the Mora 106 coming but want to get the curve one too. I will most likely get several different ones but what should be my first. thanks in advance
Personally I would go for the 164, but some people prefer different tools. Just make sure it is really sharp as that makes life so much easier, and you can focus on technique rather than just trying to force the tool through the wood. Remember shallow cuts, never try taking to much off in one go.
Professor Snape? Is that you?
hi i have a few months old Mora 164, but i see groups of grey specs on the blade - is this some sort of rust? should i clean it with something after use?
Carbon steel is prone to rust and green wood is full of water.... Clean the blade after use with tissue or a dry cloth and then apply a layer of oil of some sort. Clean the oil off before the next use.
Is the rough side of the leather facing out? Is that the polishing side?
+hoshnasi It does not matter which side of the leather is used. I have made hundreds of strops and I choose the best side of the leather for stropping, which could be the inside or the outside.
A lot of people use their buffing compound on the flesh side and then finish on the smooth side without anything on it.
Thanks so much for this video! I have a quick question for you, I hope you will be able to answer as I have not been able to find any resources for this issue.. I ordered a 162 but it came with a couple nicks in the blade. can you use sandpaper to wear out the nicks or should i return it?
If new it should not have nicks in it. If they are small, then as it needs sharpening to use they should easily come out. Sandpaper can be used like the silicon carbide paper is used around wooden slips, in the video. 240 grit is the coarsest paper and work done to a 1000 grit. Try and get hold of wet and dry paper otherwise known as silicon carbide paper
thanks so much, I was able to get them out by sanding!
Could you go from 150 grit to 60 grit or do I need to get 180
KimnRuss Boring 60 grit is extremely coarse....... Would ruin this blade if you used it..... The higher the grit#,the less coarse it is, and I'd start with 220 grit, maybe go up to 800 or 1000, then strop
What grit do you use to follow the 180 grit? Do you go over the inside and outside with 180 and then do both again with another grit?
I only use the 180 grit on the bevels, on the inside use a 600 grit or more. I would follow the 180 with a 320 - 400 then 600- 800 then 1000+ Remember that when touching up the edge start with the 300- 400 grit or higher, not the 180 grit.
***** Thanks for replying. Very helpful. My new Mora 164 just arrived and I am new at this. Do you always start with 180 grit on the bevels on a new knife, as you did in the video?
Step 1 Buy a Robin Wood spoon knife
Step 2 Compare the 2
Step 3 throw the 164 in the bin :-)
Robin Wood ist leider in Deutschland nicht zu bekommen.
Mora dagegen gibt es auch in Deutschland.
Falls jemand eine Bezugsquelle für Robin Wood in Deutschland kennt: bitte hier antworten
@@urmelausdemeis3495 I think you can only buy his knives from him direct. I've since moved on to Ben Orford knives which I prefer. I believe that Ben ships internationally from his web site. The Mora sloyd knives are great for the money, but the hook knives are really just trash.
@@carpy1970 vielen Dank für die Info!
lol stone age, please turn off your TV and read a Bible. sure these might be a little bit older, but I wonder how people sharpened their razor sharp crooked steel knives with non-"primitve" methods, when industrial sandpaper was not around or not affordable. what do you recommend as one of these about 6000 years old techniques? dry, smashed potter´s clay (maybe in coarse and fine) glued on a piece of leather like in medival times? i´ll have to try it anyway. God bless
brits. gotta love them
Thanks for this video! I have this knife and I couldn't understand why it wasn't working well for me. I thought my technic was bad. Turns out the simplest thing; dull blade.
Going top rectify this today.
Cheers,
Jim
Thank you very much for demystifying the sharpening process. Cheers!
I use the same technique, but my hook knives aren't rounded on the tip. Good idea!
I just got the Mora 162 in the mail and it's very sharp, even the end.
You went from 180 to 100? Or 200
I heard that too! I think he may have skipped a few and meant 1000; as he said "If you go to 2000 you may not need to strop"
To sharpen it is necessary a cutter, it is blunt
Really useful video, thank you - I have just started carving spoons, and my new hook knife was not very sharp on arrival. I´m used to using carborundum stones, and had got it a bit sharper, but the emery paper works even better, and I´ve not even made a strop yet. Looking forward to better carving -- I´ve got lots of olive trees but I burnt all the prunings before the carving bug got me.
I´m having a go with persimmon, and wondering about chestnut, I´ve a few spare branches of that. Avocado ?
Hi Kerry, Make a strop they really do make a big difference, unless that is you are using 5000 or 7000 grit wet and dry papers. The woods you mention are hard and can be difficult to work. I have no experience of prisimmon or avocado. Your best bet is to try them and see. Remember to make smaller cuts than to try taking bigger cuts, to save strain and injury. I have made spoons and spatulas from chestnut, it is not a wood that many spoon carvers use. Good luck and enjoy your carving.
@@SeanHellman I´ve found some finer emery, 600, 240 and 180 wet and dry, and I´ve used the 600 dry, then stropped with some polish, and the cutting and scraping is much better. I think there´s still room for improvement in my sharpening technique, and using the hook, and I feel I´m on the right path now, many thanks. My knives are made by Silkily (or something like that) but I think I´ll get a Mora 164 so I know l have every chance. Saludos from Spain.