I used to say that when I was in my 30’, 40’s, ? I said it telling myself I was closer to retire ? You know “ I am older can’t do this as easy as I used to”? Then in my 50’s I could retire and did! Hunted , fished , bought a custom trailer “Casita” trailers in rice TX , custom 4x4 the whole ball of wax!! I was secure and for 5 yrs did what I wanted and had a blast!! Then one day I thought ?? I really would love to contract & do finish carpentry? My dad was a home builder not spec or trac but custom homes selected by the customer. So I knew a little? I passed my test and went back to work! Now framing ? My dad framed into his 70’s then went to work for a large property management co overseeing their carpentry/cabinets/ framing all that. Point being if you take care of yourself age is not significant until it’s significant ! Your in good shape I am built like you! Your got a long way to go!
@@zephyr1408 and I will happily agree with you kind sir! (Honestly tho i just turned 33… and had a bit of a freak out… so young lady is just what I wanna hear!) 😂😂
@@01jbeals 33 ?? Your very young ! Well I hope God stirs your heart ! Takes your old heart and gives u a new one for him! That’s what happened to me , never looked back !
I watch a lot of the Perkins building brothers and Essential Craftsman. This video popped up and now I’m binge watching all your stuff. Great content and its awesome to see such a talented builder not far from where I live. I haven’t spent a lot of time on the Peninsula yet, but I’ve been to Sequim a couple of times, Port Townsend, and Lake Cushman. It is gorgeous out there. Views of the water, mountains, and a rain forest. Great area to explore. Keep up the great work!
I was watching StudPack and the house they're building. There was some comment about balloon framing and as a computer geek, I had no idea what they were talking about. A quick search brought me to watch this. Great explanations of what and why you're doing what you're doing. Thanks. As a DIY'er I really appreciate good work.
I’ve been out of the framing game for over 20 years (Homes). Much has changed. I would much rather see someone take their time to do it right then some of these “beast mode” framing videos 🙄. Balloon framing has its place. Not to many builders around me doing it except for grand entrances. Nice job. Looking forward to the final product.
You are the businessman of the future. Talented, quality-minded, respectful of engineering, technically proficient, humble, safe, sense of humor, realist, open-minded, efficient, unconscious. Amazing videos. So well explained. Don’t give away your value! JLC should defer to you and almost bow out. Signed, licensed engineer, contractor, CEE, MBA, near-expert in stress and almost everything, in New Orleans, Brian J. O’Reilly, Jr., P.E. Thank. You. VERY. MUCH!
Y'all need a stand-up tape dispenser. Great video. Subscribed. Second generation RE/ Construction guy (third gen. is arguable), here. I've built about 550 condos and another couple hundred SFR's, brokered a few hundred, and financed a few hundred, and I'm impressed. Started swinging a hammer in 1974, summer helper for my hands-on homebuilder uncle.
I appreciate you guys taking the time to make this video. The commentary was so helpful and I look forward to more of the tips. The detail and thinking process that the video doesn’t show. While building I spend a lot of time climbing ladders and setting up scaffolding, time I’m not “building “. It seems to me that it not only is a more effective technique, but also makes for a stronger build and much more energy efficient because you minimize seams where air gaps are formed
Great content and commentary!! No truer words were said about the soffit being a strong back , if that wall isn't perfectly straight when building it laying down its next to impossible to straighten when standing up. That fork lift does the work of 10 employees.
I'm a framer and I can see how this could be a great time saver I yet never got to build a house this way accept for tall walls only on one wall possibly two at the most. I'm from edmonton ab. This is an awesome video.
I'm not a carpenter. But I'm learning. Fun video to watch. I really want to be able to build like this. I appreciate your quality and cleanliness. And work smarter. 👍
A note about the nailing speed. In your area they let you cover, assuming that if the rest of the job looks good you did it correctly. In high wind areas of Florida they actually inspect nailing before you can cover. Do it as if someone is coming to check your work. In fact, do everything as if it is going to be opened up some day and they will see your work. I used to put blocking on the band that keeps the wall from sliding out. I use blocking in a lot of places to act as guidance. Another example would be on a ridge. I block the top of where the rafter should stop. Makes setting the ridge fast.
You guys do some outstanding work!!! Learned some very good tips and tricks from the video. Love the idea of using the Spax to set the wall..often settle for less than perfect when setting a wall due to improper communication and just sending it with the nailer.
Not a criticism at all, a lot of people like Steve Baczek advocate for a “rain screen” system wherein you leave an air gap between the siding and the sheeting. It would be great to hear you talk through your reasons for doing the traditional method of attaching the siding directly to the sheeting. Thanks!
He mentioned in a recent video that the lap siding creates its own gaps between each course, but they do use screen material for panel siding and cedar shake.
check out the siding videos in my channel. With lap siding and corner boards over the top we have a ventilated siding. Here is a great article worth reading www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation/is-rain-screen-siding-worth-the-effort_o I was with Steve last week, he's a great guy.
Excellent job, both the framing and the video production. The narration was top notch and very informative. Ignore the trolls on Instagram, keyboard warriors who have never driven a nail....
I really appreciated your clear narrative throughout and agree with nearly every aspect of this video. My question, that I see is asked elsewhere below (but I'm not savvy enough to find the answer apparently), is "how do you deal with nail pattern inspections by local jurisdiction" (for framing or shear)? Thanks again, I'm now subscribed (and that is elite company).
I like the H molding trim for the butt joints on my LP. They do stick out a little more than a really nice caulked joint but within 1 or 2 years the caulked joints don't look good and the molding joints stay the same for the life of the siding.
How do you plan on framing for the second story floor joist since it has no “platform” for joist to land on. I’ve seen old school balloon framing has notches cut out of each stud for a 1x4 ribbon that joist lay on, and then each joist is nailed to the stud. I didn’t see you notch anything. Thanks for all you do you watching your videos really help explain everything..
I'm guessing doing it later? Or maybe the ledger they're using is just sat proud of the framing instead of "let-in" a notch in all the walls... I live in an early 20's, 2 story craftsman in S. Florida. All original balloon framing, with mostly all old-growth Dade County Pine . When I ripped my kitchen/dining out, boy was I in for an education. Lol. Once I devoured all the video content I could fine, and whatever old books I could, I realized my house was built VERY stout. Probably why it has survived about a dozen massive hurricanes since built. Anyway. My house, the ribbon board is "let-in" a notch exterior walls are true dimension 2X6. Ribbon board is a true dimension 2x10 let-in around the perimeter. With 2x10 joists for second floor. Similar for structure/crawlspace. Real 2x10's, with these massive 10x12 beams that are like 40' long. The lumber is so impressive they jad back then!
Nice job. I've been doing it since 1990 with Windows and routing out all edge's. just about everything you do flat is easier than doing it on a ladder and try to explain that to some people and they look at you like you're stupid. The guys who showed me had been doing it since the 70s. Very seldomly balloon framing though. make sure you do the lay out on that top plate before you stand The Wall also. If it has a vaulted ceiling you should have built the ceiling on the floor moved to the side to be set after the walls were stood. don't nail around the windows until after the routing. and run your braces flat and use a kicker underneath that you can pull the wall in 2 feet if you want with minimal effort on your body. if you do something like a two-story wall and or just a large Gable put a 2 x 12 stiff back right up the center of the damn thing that'll keep it from butterfly and then take the Fork truck and knock it off there after it's stood. And tie them two chalk lines together so you're not walking back and forth. Lol. you can also build some ceilings to exceed the capacity of the forklift just call a crane sometimes this is a money saver also.
I would love to see how u guys draw out ur overhangs to get ur soffit heights. I’m assuming it has something to do with wall height plus ur heel heights but u no what they say about assuming. Anyways I would just like to see how all that works. Thanks and great video.
This is a time saving way for you to build and quite ingenious, however I see two issues; you are running the sheathing railroad instead of across and you have stacked the seams on the sheathing, both of which reduce resistance to racking.
Neither of those issues matter because we have way more "resistance to racking" than needed. If you'd like, I can dig up the references for you tomorrow. The main point is that all panels are blocked, that's where the real shear strength comes from 👍
This is awesome information. I was concerned with my upcoming build as two walls are to be balloon framed and I had never done this before.i had always done standard framing for walls. But our engineer stated our great room wall and master bedroom wall both needed to ba balloon framed. This is very informative since most of the time I'm going to be building by myself till my help gets home. All of the rest of the walls are only 10 ft since it is a rancher but has cathedral ceilings in both the master and great room. Thanks for making the video I'll be watching on more of your stuff. Question ..if you couldn't use advantech flooring what would you use in it's place. I can't believe the price of lumber right now is going back up again.
Love your videos! I’m about to start another framing job here in oklahoma. I would like to ballon frame like you guys do and put the siding on. How should I go about framing my front wall it is 18’ tall and 52’ wide. I’m doing vertical bath and board siding so I can do it in sections but the big living room is in the middle so I guess do it in 3rds?
Great video! Learned a lot. Super efficient… BTW what type of router bit do you use to cut out doors and windows? Couldn’t find the link. All the best… Stef
Fire blocking in walls, shear connections for floors there is reason why balloon framing is not used anymore. I’d be curious to see your construction details, I can see where it could be quicker and cheaper to build, maybe, and probably better insulated but from a quality stand point
Hey Tood, every one of those details will be covered throughout the 3 videos. Hopefully the chapters will help you find those details, but definitely in the video 3 Walk Thru chapter will show them 👍👍
Good question. Those lower walls around the garage door are the shear walls the inspector wants to see. The rest is fair game. Technically the sides and back of this house only need a few panels per wall, but by fully sheathing them we gain a lot of strength and thankfully the county recognizes that and let's us have at it.
@@AwesomeFramers dang you guys have it nice on those builds. Most houses we do around SW Washington have lots of shear schedule all around and they don’t play the “give the framer benefit of the doubt” game they want to see every nail/staple or we won’t pass 9 times out of 10 .
Awesome video. Question about putting sheathing on while the wall is on the deck. What do you do if, once standing the wall, it is not square or needs to be adjusted, but your wall "squareness" is already locked in via the sheathing? Is this not an issue as long as you take care to make sure the studs are square? What if your deck/floor is not perfectly flat? Awesome videos. Thanks!
Well he didn't answer but maybe this'll help. I do this work in prefabrication so we always sheath and insulate everything before it even leaves the workshop. If your diagonals are within 1/16" or 2mm of each other, you will never face a problem. Keep in mind this only guarantees your corners are in place, you still need to make sure those outer studs are straight. Of course we have a square assembly table but I like to check. We often do weird designs too, where walls aren't meant to be square and that's when I use my Pythagorean theorem and trigonometry. Just calculate some useful diagonals and as long as you're within that margin you'll be fine.
How are you getting a sheathing nail-off inspection when you cover the nails with tape and siding? Is it inspected before you continue or do you have a special inspector?
Would gluing down the wall sheathing allow you to open up your nailing pattern any? I work for a modular home company and we glue all of the wall sheathing, it really helps keep drywall from cracking when we swing the boxes into place.
I've heard during 1 class I took that it can offer the benefits you mentioned. But, and this is a major caveat, the codes don't show that and it can't be inspected. So that's why we have to nail off according to the engineer's requirements. Would sure be nice though.
You don't have to glue you sheeting? Is that because the amount of screws? You still have sleeves on your shirt and not on your head you look okay. Is the railing required? We glue every wall connection to floor and corners. You would not believe the amount of air that comes through corners. We cover nail heads in the zip sheeting too. You guys get it done for only 2 people.
Seriously, what would it take to get the shop drawings for those strap plates you hook your rigging to? I've got a project coming up where those and a boom lift would be extraordinarily helpful.
Is this really “ballon framing” all of the houses that I have worked in, that had ballon framing, I was able to get from the attic to the basement with no blocking in the cavities. Did you block it just because you were lifting and setting in one piece?
Some one told me that if you don’t roll the tape with the zip roller it voids the warranty, that’s why the roller has all the z’s on it. Not sure if it’s true or not
I prefer whatever makes the most sense at the time. I love having the siding installed and since we lift most of our walls with the forklift, it doesn't take much more to lift tall walls in the scheme of things.
Do you have to use the high pressure air compressor with the max high pressure coil framer, or would any air compressor work? Granted it wouldn't be high pressure in that case.
Great video! You mentioned you're in Washington State. Are you allowed to tape seams/side without a nailing inspection? I've started using zip in the last year and would like to do as much as possible while the wall is on the ground.
What we've done since we started using Zip in 2009, is to tape it all but the outside corners facing the front of the house and leave off the tape around the garage or any special shear walls. I always offer to remove tape wherever the inspector wants to spot check. They can see the field nailing and it is easy to feel and even see through the tape well enough to check if the nails are overdriven.
I absolutely love the Zip system. But how do you get a shearwall inspection when most of the seams are covered up as you're framing? (Or do you not need a shear inspection?)
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the reply. So you leave certain areas un-taped until after shear. That makes since. I'm gonna try that coming up. Tape as much as possible on the floor, leave the shear locations un-taped. 👍
There is zero structural benefit to it, so in my mind its not a good use of time and materials. The code doesn't require it on floors, but we all do it because squeaks make us look bad 🙂
I should add that the tables in the SDWS don't show it and it can't be inspected. I have heard that there could be benefit but that was an informal comment in a class I took.
listening to your soap-box moment makes me wish all the more I could come work for you. This is the same thing I preach to all the young guys that work with me. I absolutely hate with a white hot passion the breakneck mentality of some people. There is no place for that in carpentry or construction.
Great video! No need to, like millions of other youtubers, make your music segues SUPER LOUD. What's the point of watching if I have to keep changing the volume? Super friggin annoying.
You are building in a very liberal County. Santa Cruz California will not even let you Tyvek a wall before you stand the wall up. The county building inspectors require a nailing inspection. Before trying this check with your local inspector as always!!
No need to for shear values. The most important point on sheathing walls for lateral strength is the nail size & spacing along the edges. This is why the codes don't show a staggered panel on the wall That matters for floor and roof sheathing because the loading is perpendicular to the face of the panel. Let me know if you want a link to this, I'll dig it up, but its in Thor Mattesons Shear Wall Basics book
Here are some links www.amazon.com/Wood-Framed-Shear-Construction-Illustrated-Guide/dp/158001996X buy the book and learn about shear walls (hint page 100) Since you missed the other link, here it is again www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/nds-2018 Here is another one for you, please watch the animation osb.westfraser.com/wall-sheathing/tallwall/
Hey man, great content. Just wanted to ask, I’ve been framing a 3 story, 14ft by 28ft house/addition (connecting to existing) and have been sinking the sheathing nails pretty deep and didn’t think anything of it since it feels solid. Do you think this is something to be concerned about? Framing is pretty much done now but will add more sheathing nails if absolutely necessary, hoping shouldn’t be too big of an issue though.
Yes, it actually is an issue. Since your sheathing is likely 7/16" OSB if you were to overdrive all the nails 1/16", then the shear ratings drop to that of 3/8" sheathing. If its bad, you'd fail a shear inspection. You may not have a nail inspection, but for peace of mind, I'd put more nails in and get the depth closer to flush.
Why do you recommend blowing the dust away instead og sucking it up with a mobile battery operated vacuum cleaner? That dust is only swirled up and still remains on site. And is still going to stick onto your sheathing tape 🤨 And why not have a vacuum cleaner on hand when you're fastening onto conrete where you create piles of unfriendly-to-the-lungs silica dust which you just swipe or blow away. I say remove all dust by vacuuming as you work. Then it's all gone, once and for all😁
I understand you calling this “Modern” balloon framing actual classical balloon frame has no sill plate allowing air to flow up the “uninsulated wall” helping to cool the house in summer and reverse in winter
@@AwesomeFramers This is the very thing I've had in mind. How do you address this??????? Our old farm house, built right around 1900, is balloon built. I recently made some renos to it. Zero fire protection between floors. I'm also wondering how the 2nd floor can be as structurally strong not sitting on the outside walls, just hanging off them. Hoping your next videos address this and fire hazards.
I heard balloon framing was stopped in the 1930 because it was more expensive since it needs long lumbers and others and if there is a fire it spreads to the upper floor so quick people couldn't get out in time. In addition if you use engineering lumbers like OSB siding on floor, side and roof and ijoist the house burns down in no time at all.
Balloon framing is much less fire safe structurally. Fires that start in a basement or first floor wall spread vertically from floor to floor very rapidly. I’d much rather have my second floor built on a platform. Does the second floor now depend on fasteners in shear to the wall?
You can fire block and it's fine. About the sheer, it is always dependent on the fasteners. Did you hear the part about 6" center nail pattern specd by the engineer because it's on 2' centers?
Fire needs fuel and air to burn after ignition; even though fire blocks are wood they are reducing the airspace. Building inspections are critical on fire blocking; cut the air down and the fire can’t spread!
I used to say that when I was in my 30’, 40’s, ? I said it telling myself I was closer to retire ?
You know “ I am older can’t do this as easy as I used to”?
Then in my 50’s I could retire and did!
Hunted , fished , bought a custom trailer “Casita” trailers in rice TX , custom 4x4 the whole ball of wax!!
I was secure and for 5 yrs did what I wanted and had a blast!!
Then one day I thought ?? I really would love to contract & do finish carpentry? My dad was a home builder not spec or trac but custom homes selected by the customer. So I knew a little?
I passed my test and went back to work! Now framing ?
My dad framed into his 70’s then went to work for a large property management co overseeing their carpentry/cabinets/ framing all that.
Point being if you take care of yourself age is not significant until it’s significant !
Your in good shape I am built like you!
Your got a long way to go!
Oh that’s awesome! You seem genuinely happy! Good for you! 👏🏼👏🏼😃
@@01jbeals thank you Jennifer judging from your pic I want to say Thk U “young lady”!
@@zephyr1408 and I will happily agree with you kind sir! (Honestly tho i just turned 33… and had a bit of a freak out… so young lady is just what I wanna hear!) 😂😂
@@01jbeals 33 ?? Your very young ! Well I hope God stirs your heart ! Takes your old heart and gives u a new one for him!
That’s what happened to me , never looked back !
@@zephyr1408 thanks! 😉
I watch a lot of the Perkins building brothers and Essential Craftsman. This video popped up and now I’m binge watching all your stuff. Great content and its awesome to see such a talented builder not far from where I live. I haven’t spent a lot of time on the Peninsula yet, but I’ve been to Sequim a couple of times, Port Townsend, and Lake Cushman. It is gorgeous out there. Views of the water, mountains, and a rain forest. Great area to explore. Keep up the great work!
That’s exactly how o got here and now I have already watched probably 30-40 awesome framers videos on the last few days
I was watching StudPack and the house they're building. There was some comment about balloon framing and as a computer geek, I had no idea what they were talking about. A quick search brought me to watch this. Great explanations of what and why you're doing what you're doing. Thanks. As a DIY'er I really appreciate good work.
I’ve been out of the framing game for over 20 years (Homes). Much has changed. I would much rather see someone take their time to do it right then some of these “beast mode” framing videos 🙄.
Balloon framing has its place. Not to many builders around me doing it except for grand entrances.
Nice job. Looking forward to the final product.
yeah those videos are ridiculous. I posted this on IG last week as a comparison instagram.com/p/CYAIab9KzHs/
You are da" best framer I've seen in my life or you've done this repeatable model plan a dozen times and have memorized the drawing
Framing since the late 80s only seen this in old carpentry books, and old remodels, look forward seeing the results
You are the businessman of the future. Talented, quality-minded, respectful of engineering, technically proficient, humble, safe, sense of humor, realist, open-minded, efficient, unconscious. Amazing videos. So well explained. Don’t give away your value! JLC should defer to you and almost bow out. Signed, licensed engineer, contractor, CEE, MBA, near-expert in stress and almost everything, in New Orleans, Brian J. O’Reilly, Jr., P.E. Thank. You. VERY. MUCH!
Y'all need a stand-up tape dispenser. Great video. Subscribed. Second generation RE/ Construction guy (third gen. is arguable), here.
I've built about 550 condos and another couple hundred SFR's, brokered a few hundred, and financed a few hundred, and I'm impressed. Started swinging a hammer in 1974, summer helper for my hands-on homebuilder uncle.
Totally agree with the job site been clean ! less anxiety and more enjoyable to work
I appreciate you guys taking the time to make this video. The commentary was so helpful and I look forward to more of the tips. The detail and thinking process that the video doesn’t show. While building I spend a lot of time climbing ladders and setting up scaffolding, time I’m not “building “. It seems to me that it not only is a more effective technique, but also makes for a stronger build and much more energy efficient because you minimize seams where air gaps are formed
Great content and commentary!! No truer words were said about the soffit being a strong back , if that wall isn't perfectly straight when building it laying down its next to impossible to straighten when standing up.
That fork lift does the work of 10 employees.
The long form video is excellent! Appreciate you guys.
Thanks!
I'm a framer and I can see how this could be a great time saver I yet never got to build a house this way accept for tall walls only on one wall possibly two at the most. I'm from edmonton ab. This is an awesome video.
Carpenter from Nova Scotia tuning in. Love your videos, would love to be a third guy with you’s!
I'm not a carpenter. But I'm learning. Fun video to watch. I really want to be able to build like this. I appreciate your quality and cleanliness. And work smarter. 👍
A note about the nailing speed. In your area they let you cover, assuming that if the rest of the job looks good you did it correctly. In high wind areas of Florida they actually inspect nailing before you can cover. Do it as if someone is coming to check your work. In fact, do everything as if it is going to be opened up some day and they will see your work.
I used to put blocking on the band that keeps the wall from sliding out. I use blocking in a lot of places to act as guidance. Another example would be on a ridge. I block the top of where the rafter should stop. Makes setting the ridge fast.
The next house I’ll be framing is balloon framed so these videos were a nice little refresher.
You guys do some outstanding work!!! Learned some very good tips and tricks from the video. Love the idea of using the Spax to set the wall..often settle for less than perfect when setting a wall due to improper communication and just sending it with the nailer.
1:13 Kyle is on the job!
Not a criticism at all, a lot of people like Steve Baczek advocate for a “rain screen” system wherein you leave an air gap between the siding and the sheeting. It would be great to hear you talk through your reasons for doing the traditional method of attaching the siding directly to the sheeting. Thanks!
He mentioned in a recent video that the lap siding creates its own gaps between each course, but they do use screen material for panel siding and cedar shake.
check out the siding videos in my channel. With lap siding and corner boards over the top we have a ventilated siding. Here is a great article worth reading www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation/is-rain-screen-siding-worth-the-effort_o
I was with Steve last week, he's a great guy.
@@clyd3fr0g thats a great point that I never considered. I missed that video, thanks
Excellent job, both the framing and the video production. The narration was top notch and very informative. Ignore the trolls on Instagram, keyboard warriors who have never driven a nail....
Great video!
Omg, this is so cool! I need you guys to build my home.
Awesome video! I was also wondering about shear wall inspection
We do have a shear wall schedule, but the building department circles the walls they want to see on the plans. The rest are fair game.
Thats some badass prefab bruh
22:15 slick move reholstering the hammer.
Fantastic stuff Timmy! Why do people give you so much hate?
tradies are among the most opinionated people out there, often now up to date with their knowledge.
I really appreciated your clear narrative throughout and agree with nearly every aspect of this video. My question, that I see is asked elsewhere below (but I'm not savvy enough to find the answer apparently), is "how do you deal with nail pattern inspections by local jurisdiction" (for framing or shear)? Thanks again, I'm now subscribed (and that is elite company).
The intro 🫠
Chris and I would love to spend a week learning with you!
ditto!
Nice work 👍
I like the H molding trim for the butt joints on my LP. They do stick out a little more than a really nice caulked joint but within 1 or 2 years the caulked joints don't look good and the molding joints stay the same for the life of the siding.
Really enjoy your videos 👍
We went from a chainsaw for openings to the router back in '93. It's a good thing.
Great video 👍🏻
How do you plan on framing for the second story floor joist since it has no “platform” for joist to land on. I’ve seen old school balloon framing has notches cut out of each stud for a 1x4 ribbon that joist lay on, and then each joist is nailed to the stud. I didn’t see you notch anything. Thanks for all you do you watching your videos really help explain everything..
The floor joisting is all done off a ledger. He has shown it in other vids.
I'm guessing doing it later? Or maybe the ledger they're using is just sat proud of the framing instead of "let-in" a notch in all the walls...
I live in an early 20's, 2 story craftsman in
S. Florida. All original balloon framing, with mostly all old-growth Dade County Pine . When I ripped my kitchen/dining out, boy was I in for an education. Lol. Once I devoured all the video content I could fine, and whatever old books I could, I realized my house was built VERY stout. Probably why it has survived about a dozen massive hurricanes since built.
Anyway. My house, the ribbon board is "let-in" a notch exterior walls are true dimension 2X6. Ribbon board is a true dimension 2x10 let-in around the perimeter. With 2x10 joists for second floor. Similar for structure/crawlspace. Real 2x10's, with these massive 10x12 beams that are like 40' long. The lumber is so impressive they jad back then!
Nice job. I've been doing it since 1990 with Windows and routing out all edge's. just about everything you do flat is easier than doing it on a ladder and try to explain that to some people and they look at you like you're stupid. The guys who showed me had been doing it since the 70s.
Very seldomly balloon framing though.
make sure you do the lay out on that top plate before you stand The Wall also.
If it has a vaulted ceiling you should have built the ceiling on the floor moved to the side to be set after the walls were stood. don't nail around the windows until after the routing.
and run your braces flat and use a kicker underneath that you can pull the wall in 2 feet if you want with minimal effort on your body. if you do something like a two-story wall and or just a large Gable put a 2 x 12 stiff back right up the center of the damn thing that'll keep it from butterfly and then take the Fork truck and knock it off there after it's stood.
And tie them two chalk lines together so you're not walking back and forth. Lol.
you can also build some ceilings to exceed the capacity of the forklift just call a crane sometimes this is a money saver also.
Routing out the windows is the better way to go it does suck after walls are already stood up dust gets everywhere it makes for a miserable day
I would love to see how u guys draw out ur overhangs to get ur soffit heights. I’m assuming it has something to do with wall height plus ur heel heights but u no what they say about assuming. Anyways I would just like to see how all that works. Thanks and great video.
I'll post a video on it 👍👍
This is awesome
This is a time saving way for you to build and quite ingenious, however I see two issues; you are running the sheathing railroad instead of across and you have stacked the seams on the sheathing, both of which reduce resistance to racking.
Neither of those issues matter because we have way more "resistance to racking" than needed. If you'd like, I can dig up the references for you tomorrow.
The main point is that all panels are blocked, that's where the real shear strength comes from 👍
I’d say the acid buildup should be intergalactic, planetary even.
This is awesome information. I was concerned with my upcoming build as two walls are to be balloon framed and I had never done this before.i had always done standard framing for walls. But our engineer stated our great room wall and master bedroom wall both needed to ba balloon framed. This is very informative since most of the time I'm going to be building by myself till my help gets home. All of the rest of the walls are only 10 ft since it is a rancher but has cathedral ceilings in both the master and great room. Thanks for making the video I'll be watching on more of your stuff. Question ..if you couldn't use advantech flooring what would you use in it's place. I can't believe the price of lumber right now is going back up again.
We've had great success with Edge Gold. Holds up to the weather really well.
Very interesting approach. But, my back started twitching just watching all that bending at the waist.:-)
In ontario if you frame a 2 storey wall, it has to be at least 2x6 double stud 12 inch oc
Love your videos! I’m about to start another framing job here in oklahoma. I would like to ballon frame like you guys do and put the siding on. How should I go about framing my front wall it is 18’ tall and 52’ wide. I’m doing vertical bath and board siding so I can do it in sections but the big living room is in the middle so I guess do it in 3rds?
Is that drone a model vr-90b? I’ve never heard drone footage that quiet…maybe the sun dial feature helps lol
😂😂😂😂😂😂 Yep, an 1998 IR VR90B
Молодцы!
Great video! Learned a lot. Super efficient…
BTW what type of router bit do you use to cut out doors and windows?
Couldn’t find the link.
All the best…
Stef
This guys like the Ryan Reynolds of framing 😂
You guys really are awesome framers. Can you clone yourselves?
Fire blocking in walls, shear connections for floors there is reason why balloon framing is not used anymore. I’d be curious to see your construction details, I can see where it could be quicker and cheaper to build, maybe, and probably better insulated but from a quality stand point
Hey Tood, every one of those details will be covered throughout the 3 videos. Hopefully the chapters will help you find those details, but definitely in the video 3 Walk Thru chapter will show them 👍👍
@@AwesomeFramers
Just started going through them, thx
What about your shear nail inspection?
Magnet:)
Good question. Those lower walls around the garage door are the shear walls the inspector wants to see. The rest is fair game. Technically the sides and back of this house only need a few panels per wall, but by fully sheathing them we gain a lot of strength and thankfully the county recognizes that and let's us have at it.
@@AwesomeFramers dang you guys have it nice on those builds. Most houses we do around SW Washington have lots of shear schedule all around and they don’t play the “give the framer benefit of the doubt” game they want to see every nail/staple or we won’t pass 9 times out of 10 .
Great video. Subscribed. Why no rain screen under the siding? Is it not necessary?
Nope not with lap siding and corners over the siding.
Awesome video. Question about putting sheathing on while the wall is on the deck. What do you do if, once standing the wall, it is not square or needs to be adjusted, but your wall "squareness" is already locked in via the sheathing? Is this not an issue as long as you take care to make sure the studs are square? What if your deck/floor is not perfectly flat? Awesome videos. Thanks!
Well he didn't answer but maybe this'll help. I do this work in prefabrication so we always sheath and insulate everything before it even leaves the workshop. If your diagonals are within 1/16" or 2mm of each other, you will never face a problem. Keep in mind this only guarantees your corners are in place, you still need to make sure those outer studs are straight. Of course we have a square assembly table but I like to check. We often do weird designs too, where walls aren't meant to be square and that's when I use my Pythagorean theorem and trigonometry. Just calculate some useful diagonals and as long as you're within that margin you'll be fine.
“My back is full of ‘ga’lactic acid” 😂
@12:28
😂😂😂😂😂
How are you getting a sheathing nail-off inspection when you cover the nails with tape and siding? Is it inspected before you continue or do you have a special inspector?
Would gluing down the wall sheathing allow you to open up your nailing pattern any? I work for a modular home company and we glue all of the wall sheathing, it really helps keep drywall from cracking when we swing the boxes into place.
Might help on some of the longer walls if you’re worried about it flexing when you lift.
I've heard during 1 class I took that it can offer the benefits you mentioned. But, and this is a major caveat, the codes don't show that and it can't be inspected. So that's why we have to nail off according to the engineer's requirements.
Would sure be nice though.
Out of curiosity, without back orders, how long does it take to build each of those houses? If you care to say! No specific reason, just curious.
You don't have to glue you sheeting? Is that because the amount of screws? You still have sleeves on your shirt and not on your head you look okay. Is the railing required? We glue every wall connection to floor and corners. You would not believe the amount of air that comes through corners. We cover nail heads in the zip sheeting too. You guys get it done for only 2 people.
Seriously, what would it take to get the shop drawings for those strap plates you hook your rigging to? I've got a project coming up where those and a boom lift would be extraordinarily helpful.
Is this really “ballon framing” all of the houses that I have worked in, that had ballon framing, I was able to get from the attic to the basement with no blocking in the cavities. Did you block it just because you were lifting and setting in one piece?
who makes y'alls tool belts? I've been googling for like a half hour and can't figure it out
Some one told me that if you don’t roll the tape with the zip roller it voids the warranty, that’s why the roller has all the z’s on it. Not sure if it’s true or not
It is true. Always roll the tape
Always roll the tape, but it doesn't have to be done with the Huber roller. The Zs are for QC, it tells the super that it has been rolled
question . do you prefer ballon framing or regular platform framing. it looks like ballon framing is trickier by the time you pick it up.
I prefer whatever makes the most sense at the time. I love having the siding installed and since we lift most of our walls with the forklift, it doesn't take much more to lift tall walls in the scheme of things.
Not staggering the joints in the plywood? I thought that was common practice for shear strength.
When using the router to cut out the openings, how do you keep from cutting into the framing?
The bit has a bearing 👍
How come the wall sheathing does not need to be staggered?
What kind of limit is there raising the wall in a wind?
Do you have to use the high pressure air compressor with the max high pressure coil framer, or would any air compressor work? Granted it wouldn't be high pressure in that case.
Definitely has to he a high pressure compressor. Max makes the only one worth using 👍
@@AwesomeFramers thank you
Great video! You mentioned you're in Washington State. Are you allowed to tape seams/side without a nailing inspection? I've started using zip in the last year and would like to do as much as possible while the wall is on the ground.
What we've done since we started using Zip in 2009, is to tape it all but the outside corners facing the front of the house and leave off the tape around the garage or any special shear walls.
I always offer to remove tape wherever the inspector wants to spot check. They can see the field nailing and it is easy to feel and even see through the tape well enough to check if the nails are overdriven.
I’ve had some overzealous inspectors back in the day before zip. This will save time, thanks for the input!
can you recommend any framers for Westchester New York?
I absolutely love the Zip system. But how do you get a shearwall inspection when most of the seams are covered up as you're framing? (Or do you not need a shear inspection?)
good questions. We do have a shear wall schedule, but the building department circles the walls they want to see on the plans. The rest are fair game.
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the reply. So you leave certain areas un-taped until after shear. That makes since. I'm gonna try that coming up. Tape as much as possible on the floor, leave the shear locations un-taped. 👍
Why not apply Zip Sheathing with Adhesive like your Floor System?
There is zero structural benefit to it, so in my mind its not a good use of time and materials. The code doesn't require it on floors, but we all do it because squeaks make us look bad 🙂
I should add that the tables in the SDWS don't show it and it can't be inspected. I have heard that there could be benefit but that was an informal comment in a class I took.
listening to your soap-box moment makes me wish all the more I could come work for you. This is the same thing I preach to all the young guys that work with me. I absolutely hate with a white hot passion the breakneck mentality of some people. There is no place for that in carpentry or construction.
we are definitely of like mind
do you have a modern solution to attaching floor joists to a balloon framed wall?
yep, stay tuned 👍👍
may have missed it, but are yall using 5/8" Zip since your framing on 24" O.C. framing?
nope 7/16" which is rated for 24" oc. We don't have high winds here or that could change.
@@AwesomeFramers nice, I didnt realize it was rated for 24".
@@taylorechols6748 even standard 7/16 osb is rated for 24
Is there a reason you didn't stagger the osb on this?not being a smart a.. iam just curious
Yep, there's no need for shear walls that have all panel edges blocked
Thanks
Which router bit are you guys using now from Whiteside Tim? The 1/4 with the built in guide or the actual bearing guide?
RFT2100 bottom bearing bit. Works fantastic.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HPYOJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks y’all!
Why the switch to Matabo bs the desalt mini?
@@shaundobbs2138 was a review model for jlconline.com
What about nailing inspection? Did this video skip a day?
No it didn't skip a day. We are fortunate in this county that the building department circles the walls they want to inspect, the rest is fair game.
we are going out
No expansion joints?
where specifically are you referring to?
I would have had them outriggers down while lifting and moving
You can't drive with the outriggers down.
I know what you're saying but I had plenty of capacity according to the load charts.
Are you framing in Washington state ?
You guys know any decent contractors hiring In the seattle area ?
I don't' know anyone in Seattle, sorry
Great video! No need to, like millions of other youtubers, make your music segues SUPER LOUD. What's the point of watching if I have to keep changing the volume? Super friggin annoying.
The fireplace doesn't line up!
You are building in a very liberal County. Santa Cruz California will not even let you Tyvek a wall before you stand the wall up. The county building inspectors require a nailing inspection.
Before trying this check with your local inspector as always!!
Good points. Here the inspector tells us which walls they want to inspect, rest are fair game.
5:32 Why not stagger the edges?
No need to for shear values. The most important point on sheathing walls for lateral strength is the nail size & spacing along the edges. This is why the codes don't show a staggered panel on the wall That matters for floor and roof sheathing because the loading is perpendicular to the face of the panel. Let me know if you want a link to this, I'll dig it up, but its in Thor Mattesons Shear Wall Basics book
Here are some links www.amazon.com/Wood-Framed-Shear-Construction-Illustrated-Guide/dp/158001996X buy the book and learn about shear walls (hint page 100)
Since you missed the other link, here it is again www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/nds-2018
Here is another one for you, please watch the animation osb.westfraser.com/wall-sheathing/tallwall/
"lather, rinse and repeat"
Hey man, great content.
Just wanted to ask, I’ve been framing a 3 story, 14ft by 28ft house/addition (connecting to existing) and have been sinking the sheathing nails pretty deep and didn’t think anything of it since it feels solid. Do you think this is something to be concerned about? Framing is pretty much done now but will add more sheathing nails if absolutely necessary, hoping shouldn’t be too big of an issue though.
Sheating is 1/2” osb
Yes, it actually is an issue. Since your sheathing is likely 7/16" OSB if you were to overdrive all the nails 1/16", then the shear ratings drop to that of 3/8" sheathing.
If its bad, you'd fail a shear inspection. You may not have a nail inspection, but for peace of mind, I'd put more nails in and get the depth closer to flush.
@@AwesomeFramers thanks for the reply man, will do
Funny .. use raisins for constipation
Why do you recommend blowing the dust away instead og sucking it up with a mobile battery operated vacuum cleaner? That dust is only swirled up and still remains on site. And is still going to stick onto your sheathing tape 🤨 And why not have a vacuum cleaner on hand when you're fastening onto conrete where you create piles of unfriendly-to-the-lungs silica dust which you just swipe or blow away. I say remove all dust by vacuuming as you work. Then it's all gone, once and for all😁
I understand you calling this “Modern” balloon framing actual classical balloon frame has no sill plate allowing air to flow up the “uninsulated wall” helping to cool the house in summer and reverse in winter
interesting, I never knew that. I know that the lack of blocking makes the "classic" balloon frame a death trap in a fire
@@AwesomeFramers
This is the very thing I've had in mind. How do you address this???????
Our old farm house, built right around 1900, is balloon built. I recently made some renos to it. Zero fire protection between floors.
I'm also wondering how the 2nd floor can be as structurally strong not sitting on the outside walls, just hanging off them. Hoping your next videos address this and fire hazards.
You are dead right on tools and depending on the job I charge!
I heard balloon framing was stopped in the 1930 because it was more expensive since it needs long lumbers and others and if there is a fire it spreads to the upper floor so quick people couldn't get out in time. In addition if you use engineering lumbers like OSB siding on floor, side and roof and ijoist the house burns down in no time at all.
Not very accurate. Fireblocking and Fire code are our friends
Sorry balloon framing goes by floor to floor too. Your OSB is on the wrong time. And a 2x4 for fixing is a joke. No wind? 🙈🙈🙈🙈🙈
Balloon framing is much less fire safe structurally. Fires that start in a basement or first floor wall spread vertically from floor to floor very rapidly. I’d much rather have my second floor built on a platform. Does the second floor now depend on fasteners in shear to the wall?
That's not true due to today's fire codes. Note the 4x blocking at the floor height 👍
You can fire block and it's fine. About the sheer, it is always dependent on the fasteners. Did you hear the part about 6" center nail pattern specd by the engineer because it's on 2' centers?
Fire needs fuel and air to burn after ignition; even though fire blocks are wood they are reducing the airspace. Building inspections are critical on fire blocking; cut the air down and the fire can’t spread!
Put in a sprinkler system.
@@darrenmarsh2290 why? This house already goes beyond fire code. Adding sprinklers is an unnecessary cost to already high housing prices.
206 7/8
psyllium fiber husks. haha.
That's not balloon framing! Why didn't you put the gable end on it?
It is balloon framing. No gable? Because it's an eaves wall. That's why there's soffit already attached. Did you actually watch the video?