Exactly my thoughts having used a pump for domestic water for 25 years there is quite a degree of vibration from the pumps even without that it was the proximity of the power to the steel that worried me.
Laminar flow is what they use in hospitals. A large curving elbow helps stop cavitation. Spiral piping also is great. Had LPG van & spiral hose into carbe made it pur. Have a electrical motor similiar & centrifugal pump section is all plastic. Water industry uses stainless. Longer spiral sections help to save centrafugal pump impellers.
Should have a check valve in the form of a flapper in the pump inlet so the pump impeller is never without water. That pump should still draw up water & self prime from that level even without.
Living rural with the same pump slightly above our tank, never had issues with lost prime. I think the regulator helps with that. Also if you think tank > pump > tap, that entire system should always be pressurised as long as the pump is powered and so no option for air to get into the system and the pump no longer be primed
If you end up draining the tank completely then that’s another story though. In that case those red buttons are really useful to burp the system and let the water pressure fill the pump (provided the water level is higher than the pump) to get back prime
Looking good. A couple observations. 1 - wire chaffing of the pump power cord. 2 - some sort of plug in that open ball valve. 3 - have you considered a semi-permanent extension pipe on the deck where you fill water? I think you’re gonna run the risk of debris from the deck getting inside the tank each time you remove the cap to fill. Keep up the great work
Your water tanks look amazing to me. My family operated workboats in the Gulf of Mexico, from the 60’s through the late eighties and the water tanks were lined with grease. I don’t remember exactly what it was but it was pretty expensive. Each year the crews would open the manholes and inspect the tanks. There was never any rust but as our boats were idle over winter the tanks got slimy and had to be cleaned and re-greased. The grease came in 5 gallon drums and had to be heated and sprayed on to the walls of the tanks. Once the grease cooled it was super thick an did not mix with the water. Surprisingly the water tested safe and tasted great in our docks. However they were usually stationed at Remote docks in South Louisiana where the potable water had a sulfur content and smelled of rotten eggs. Fortunately the guys made a lot of Kool-Aid to mask the smell.
Great video Guy’s, your making huge Progress with Brupeg when you look what you’ve all achieved in the past year it colossal Great Job 👏 All the best to you all from us two in England
For drinking (and cooking) water in the kitchen I'd high;ly recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis water filter. A good 5-stage RO has good Carbon Filtration before the membrane, and the membrane filters down to around 0,001 microns. Perfectly pure and clean drinking water. You can also use a little Chlorine to clear out a tank with some algae growth, just add a carbon filter cartridge as your second existing filter to remove the CL2 before it goes into the boat system.
The problem with a system like that is it also removes the minerals in the water that you want left. They’d have to also add a mineral restoration cartridge.
R.O. System sounds good, But is quite a system to maintain, expensive, takes up real estatement ( =costly on a ship) and not realy required when you have enough tankage. When you can not store sufficient fresh water, than “a means of water making” comes into play. Commercial ships have big watertanks, and watermakers, to make fresh water. Not to “make specific water for the galley.
I worked at a commercial port in WA. It was common for the vessels to fill their water tanks for free at the port and then sell the water at the not port (depending on where they were going). Good video
A pressure gauge prior to and after filter are a good way to monitor filters, didn’t see a pressure balancing tank in the system, you will definitely want to add one to minimize pump run times and pressure surges.
That tank glass allows for an onboard fish take. Hell you could use it like a Canary in a Coal mine. Put fish in the tank, if they die that water's foul. LOL
Reminded me of my first ship and my first New Year away. On New Year eve day we had the job of cement washing one of the fresh water tanks. It eventually dissolved into a cement wash water fight. This resulted on a good thick coat of cement wash on the steel of the tank which prevented rust from tainting the water. However, even after a long shower we were still washing away cement from every orifice for days afterwards. That said we went on to have a good celebration of the New Year afterwards.
Dame, looking in them tanks. They to my eye have a lot of un baffled volume, just thinking about free surface effects. Some food grade polypropylene boards sprung inside (no fixings etc) to moderate the slosh etc.
Yeah that's what I noticed. I think I have been unsubscribed. Been a subscriber for a while and noticed that I wasn't up on the wall . I figured you guys pulled me down. But still week in week out I still watch.
RUclips. I jumped on when you were starting to sandblast the inside before painting anything. There were three of you back then . I can't remember the dudes name. This was way before Trev jumped on.
Ryan was the early guys name. Big tall fella. The wall in the engine room is every person that donated during our engine go fund me and every Patreon supporter we have had since day one.
Hi. Have you thought about mounting or adhering a mirror to the tank wall, opposite the window? The light reflecting back through the water might be informative. Maybe.. 🤔
If you plan on running in cold climates I would highly recommend installing a small heater in the cofferdam to help prevent the pump and pipes from freezing
I am just playing with you guys. Yes, I said holy crap. You didn’t get that in the water yet. But as we know your project is a project and it’s a lifestyle. It’s what you and your lovely wife want to do enjoy and you guys are living your dream and that’s awesome.❤
You'll need a back flow/one way flow valve inline at your toilet cistern so that area doesn't possibly contaminate your drinking water. People had health issues connecting bidets & bum washers to their household water supply during the great toilet paper wars & famine.
Yeah we have a solenoid valve in that line as the tootle is design to pull seawater and without the valve the pressure keeps it flushing. It’s a marine toilet without a cistern
@@ProjectBrupeg I'll send you some rolls of T.P with Greta' Thunberg's face on it if you want. I find it's a bit rough on skin & some have an allergic reaction to even the sight of it.
For long term water storage, one ounce of Calcium Hypochlorite will treat 6000 gallons (over 22,000 liters) of potable water. It will prevent mold and bacterial growth, saving having to open and scrub the tanks...
For whatever it is worth the plumber in me says always plug any valves (such as the emergency fill opening on water pump suction) with a either a plug or nipple and cap. Saves catastrophe when valve is opening by accident or by ignorance. Just saying.
Would dearly love to be back on your Patreon. Had to drop off a few months ago to dodge a bankruptcy missile that came out of nowhere. Whatever you've heard about American health care, it's that bad, and it might be worse than that, but at least I still have my wife. I look forward to a day I can return to the crew. Glad to see Brupeg has been doing well without me. 👍
You should have used agricultural poly blue line (metric) pipe & fittings for your suction & other plumbing. Much easier to fit. handles suction & repair if needed.
Poly is only really an Aussie thing, the rest of the world doesn't seem to like it, you won't get spares easy, I'd agree though it's very easy to work with and would prob never fail, till that one time...
@@fowletm1992 Those hoses he used are going to go as hard as a rock in quick time. Atleast with polypipe, especially blueline you can dis-assemble easily & make any shape you need. Not hard to store a couple of meters of it onboard & some 1-1/2" greenline makes a great didgeridoo. Philmac fittings are the business, strong & super reliable. I've used & re-used them over the decades & only had other brand fitting fail.
Check valves on the suction side of the pump for each tank are necessary to prevent losing the pumps prime. Also that is a lot of ballast weight in water. do you think you need a high capacity transfer pump between the tanks to transfer water between the tanks at sea?
You should provide some method of residual disinfection for your water storage, especially if you are using watermakers in the future. Have a look at MSN 1845, which is the British Government legislation for the provision and storage of water on board shipping. Lots of good guidelines and good practice for the provision of clean water. Possibly consider a charcoal filter st some point post pump to remove any stale smell in the water. Great job guys, you are really smashing it!
If you find you have algae growing in those tanks you could utilise the clear Perspex and mount UV lights on the outside. Plus it would look pretty damn cool.
Damo, can that pump actually lift water on the suction side? Usually that type is mounted down low I've noticed. I can imagine the water going below the level of the pump and it struggling. I could well be wrong of course.
Any concerns with a check valve to prevent cross feeding and cross contamination of the tanks? A check valve at the tank only allowing water to leave the tank may be cheap insurance.
We did think about that but we want the ability to transfer water using gravity to even our boat trim. With the current set up we can do they by opening both ball valves and letting the water settle.
Very interesting job. If your pump fails do you have a way of getting water out of tanks until it is repaired? I ask under principle of what can fail will fail. Great work.
Just a Tip/Warning for people considering transparent sight window for an install in different location. It can actually be counter productive to let light into a water tank, as it helps certain things grow. (Probably not An issue for Brupeg in this case since it's in a sealed off room already. XD
I can tell you for a fact that crystal clear, cool, running mountain stream water contains Clampybacter bacteria which is really good for weight loss & shooting shit through the eye of a needle at 40 meters for two weeks until you get the test results back & antibiotics. Don't ask me how I know.
any chem based white paint turns yellow over time /as in my kitchen appliances did. plenty of fresh water with that pump but 240 volt ? take showers while running? sinks ? toilets ?
@@dustyfarmer They would actually be better off running both at the same time. One line is to small and will be an under flow (starvation) condition for the pump.
When you showed the tank fill with water . You should have put a plastic Nemo fish in the tank. 😂 Now can you build a threaded fitting into supply water tank with a air valve. So no foreign material like bugs / dirt can't fall in the tank.🤔
На счёт вашего насоса,иногда система автоматики управления насосом уходит в режим аварии и его нужно вручную перезапускать,предусмотрите просто ручной выключатель на выносном пульте.
Jess, what is the name of the guy who is your crewman, sorry I can never get it and sometimes want to include him in my comments. Funny, watching today I had some sense of impending launch, first time. Everyone is doing such an incredible job
What about venting the tanks? Are you planning to have a vent cap on the filler or are you going to install a vent inside the cabin somewhere on a upper deck? Pulling a vaccuum in the tank is bad..
This may be a stupid question but why not put a prop shaft between the gearbox and the final drive to the prop. Trying to line that all up on the engine seems to be a recipe for a vibration?
Mads you May want to Try US Composites for your Fiberglass Needs and also look at Kevlar Fiber . ( 5 times stronger then Steel.) they could discount of what you buy
There is a mythical place on vessels and aircraft of all sorts and sizes called "the datum line". It's the base horizontal plane of the structure. Many things are placed parallel or orthogonal to the datum line, It's just good practice.
looks good. you may want to mitigate chafing on the electrical wires leaving the pump
Exactly my thoughts having used a pump for domestic water for 25 years there is quite a degree of vibration from the pumps even without that it was the proximity of the power to the steel that worried me.
I So agree. I think at best you may end up with a break in the line. At worst, you might end up with a short circuit. Otherwise looks great!
We will be changing this right away. Thanks for pointing it out guys. Dame
Like the engine/gearbox/prop shaft, we do things the Bru way. Redundancy, overenginered, designed to last. Take a lickin but keeps on working.
Great videos. For additional water safety I have installed a UV water sterilizer after my filters. It will kill any bacteria in your water.
Laminar flow is what they use in hospitals. A large curving elbow helps stop cavitation. Spiral piping also is great. Had LPG van & spiral hose into carbe made it pur.
Have a electrical motor similiar & centrifugal pump section is all plastic. Water industry uses stainless.
Longer spiral sections help to save centrafugal pump impellers.
This project is fast tracking SV Seeker !
boat work
Hey mate, you’ll need to put check valves at the outlet of the tanks to keep your pump primed when the water falls below the height of the pump
Should have a check valve in the form of a flapper in the pump inlet so the pump impeller is never without water. That pump should still draw up water & self prime from that level even without.
Living rural with the same pump slightly above our tank, never had issues with lost prime. I think the regulator helps with that. Also if you think tank > pump > tap, that entire system should always be pressurised as long as the pump is powered and so no option for air to get into the system and the pump no longer be primed
If you end up draining the tank completely then that’s another story though. In that case those red buttons are really useful to burp the system and let the water pressure fill the pump (provided the water level is higher than the pump) to get back prime
I’d be more concerned about a check valve to prevent cross feeding the tanks to keep them separated in case of contamination.
Water, water everywhere… nice! :)
Looking good. A couple observations. 1 - wire chaffing of the pump power cord. 2 - some sort of plug in that open ball valve. 3 - have you considered a semi-permanent extension pipe on the deck where you fill water? I think you’re gonna run the risk of debris from the deck getting inside the tank each time you remove the cap to fill. Keep up the great work
There isn't any debris at sea,first wave will clean it up
Agreed. Extend the fill pipe to just under the rail.
Your water tanks look amazing to me. My family operated workboats in the Gulf of Mexico, from the 60’s through the late eighties and the water tanks were lined with grease. I don’t remember exactly what it was but it was pretty expensive. Each year the crews would open the manholes and inspect the tanks. There was never any rust but as our boats were idle over winter the tanks got slimy and had to be cleaned and re-greased. The grease came in 5 gallon drums and had to be heated and sprayed on to the walls of the tanks. Once the grease cooled it was super thick an did not mix with the water. Surprisingly the water tested safe and tasted great in our docks. However they were usually stationed at Remote docks in South Louisiana where the potable water had a sulfur content and smelled of rotten eggs. Fortunately the guys made a lot of Kool-Aid to mask the smell.
Yes there is a non toxic grease I used on water valves.
Great video Guy’s, your making huge Progress with Brupeg when you look what you’ve all achieved in the past year it colossal Great Job 👏
All the best to you all from us two in England
The added bonus of the windows is it just looks cool to see the water in there. 😂
Doesn’t it just
toss a goldfish in lol @@ProjectBrupeg
For drinking (and cooking) water in the kitchen I'd high;ly recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis water filter. A good 5-stage RO has good Carbon Filtration before the membrane, and the membrane filters down to around 0,001 microns. Perfectly pure and clean drinking water.
You can also use a little Chlorine to clear out a tank with some algae growth, just add a carbon filter cartridge as your second existing filter to remove the CL2 before it goes into the boat system.
The problem with a system like that is it also removes the minerals in the water that you want left. They’d have to also add a mineral restoration cartridge.
R.O. System sounds good, But is quite a system to maintain, expensive, takes up real estatement ( =costly on a ship) and not realy required when you have enough tankage.
When you can not store sufficient fresh water, than “a means of water making” comes into play.
Commercial ships have big watertanks, and watermakers, to make fresh water. Not to “make specific water for the galley.
I worked at a commercial port in WA. It was common for the vessels to fill their water tanks for free at the port and then sell the water at the not port (depending on where they were going). Good video
Yes, that happened to me. I was kicked off of being subscribed, and didn't know what happeded. Thanks for update.
Thanks for checking
It is nice to have a DC pump in line as well. 12 or 24V in case you loose AC voltage. Just T is in after the AC pump.
If you add the DC pump put it down low, It is a bear to prime those big pumps if the water level in the tank is below the pump.
And you should add a valve on the out put side of the filters or you will get all the water that was pumped to top side when changing the filters
Nice to see you have the correct size spanners for the plumbing on the pump...Love it :)
Yeah. He is turning into a real plumber with the 'all-purpose' tools.
Is there a UV sterilizer anywhere in the potable water system?
UV filter and chlorine in the tank , keep up the good work
Thanks, Are you installing a water maker ?
Thanks so much Paul. Yes it’s in the plans for the future but it’s quite pricey so will be delayed for a while
A pressure gauge prior to and after filter are a good way to monitor filters, didn’t see a pressure balancing tank in the system, you will definitely want to add one to minimize pump run times and pressure surges.
That tank glass allows for an onboard fish take. Hell you could use it like a Canary in a Coal mine. Put fish in the tank, if they die that water's foul. LOL
tank you
Yes, good morning 😊
Nice! The videos with hoses / fittings / ball valves / etc are my fav 😊
Reminded me of my first ship and my first New Year away. On New Year eve day we had the job of cement washing one of the fresh water tanks. It eventually dissolved into a cement wash water fight. This resulted on a good thick coat of cement wash on the steel of the tank which prevented rust from tainting the water. However, even after a long shower we were still washing away cement from every orifice for days afterwards. That said we went on to have a good celebration of the New Year afterwards.
Well done from UK
Here's me waiting to see the fish in the on board aquarium 🐟🐡🐠🐟 Turns out it's for bloody drink water. Still a good job guys, even without fish.
Dame, looking in them tanks. They to my eye have a lot of un baffled volume, just thinking about free surface effects. Some food grade polypropylene boards sprung inside (no fixings etc) to moderate the slosh etc.
Having slack tanks can be for stability.
Great Job. The windows are a good idea.
Damien might be about to move into the cofferdam.
Great looking fish tanks! 😁
Yeah that's what I noticed. I think I have been unsubscribed. Been a subscriber for a while and noticed that I wasn't up on the wall . I figured you guys pulled me down. But still week in week out I still watch.
Hi Geoff. We don’t want anyone to miss out. Do you mean you were subscribed on Patreon or on RUclips?
RUclips. I jumped on when you were starting to sandblast the inside before painting anything. There were three of you back then . I can't remember the dudes name. This was way before Trev jumped on.
Ryan was the early guys name. Big tall fella. The wall in the engine room is every person that donated during our engine go fund me and every Patreon supporter we have had since day one.
Hi. Have you thought about mounting or adhering a mirror to the tank wall, opposite the window? The light reflecting back through the water might be informative. Maybe.. 🤔
If you plan on running in cold climates I would highly recommend installing a small heater in the cofferdam to help prevent the pump and pipes from freezing
Thanks for that. Will add it to the list
*cofferdam
@@buellb0y ya stupid autocorrect
@@ProjectBrupeg Could use some of the waste heat from the engines to keep the tanks from getting too cold come to think of it.
I am just playing with you guys. Yes, I said holy crap. You didn’t get that in the water yet. But as we know your project is a project and it’s a lifestyle. It’s what you and your lovely wife want to do enjoy and you guys are living your dream and that’s awesome.❤
sending positive vibes
You'll need a back flow/one way flow valve inline at your toilet cistern so that area doesn't possibly contaminate your drinking water. People had health issues connecting bidets & bum washers to their household water supply during the great toilet paper wars & famine.
Yeah we have a solenoid valve in that line as the tootle is design to pull seawater and without the valve the pressure keeps it flushing. It’s a marine toilet without a cistern
@@ProjectBrupeg I'll send you some rolls of T.P with Greta' Thunberg's face on it if you want. I find it's a bit rough on skin & some have an allergic reaction to even the sight of it.
For long term water storage, one ounce of Calcium Hypochlorite will treat 6000 gallons (over 22,000 liters) of potable water. It will prevent mold and bacterial growth, saving having to open and scrub the tanks...
Fantastic episode, have you thought of a UV sterilisation filter to keep out the nasties.
Looking forward to splash day
Greatly job
For whatever it is worth the plumber in me says always plug any valves (such as the emergency fill opening on water pump suction) with a either a plug or nipple and cap. Saves catastrophe when valve is opening by accident or by ignorance. Just saying.
That's some impressive water tankage. Should drop a few pigpong balls in to make it easier to see the level 😂
Great update 2x👍
Would dearly love to be back on your Patreon. Had to drop off a few months ago to dodge a bankruptcy missile that came out of nowhere. Whatever you've heard about American health care, it's that bad, and it might be worse than that, but at least I still have my wife. I look forward to a day I can return to the crew. Glad to see Brupeg has been doing well without me. 👍
That’s awful to hear Ted. I’m glad you came out the other side of it. We’re all thinking of you both mate. Dame, Jess and Birk
@@ProjectBrupeg I sincerely appreciate that. ❤
You should have used agricultural poly blue line (metric) pipe & fittings for your suction & other plumbing. Much easier to fit. handles suction & repair if needed.
Poly is only really an Aussie thing, the rest of the world doesn't seem to like it, you won't get spares easy, I'd agree though it's very easy to work with and would prob never fail, till that one time...
@@fowletm1992 Those hoses he used are going to go as hard as a rock in quick time. Atleast with polypipe, especially blueline you can dis-assemble easily & make any shape you need. Not hard to store a couple of meters of it onboard & some 1-1/2" greenline makes a great didgeridoo. Philmac fittings are the business, strong & super reliable. I've used & re-used them over the decades & only had other brand fitting fail.
Check valves on the suction side of the pump for each tank are necessary to prevent losing the pumps prime. Also that is a lot of ballast weight in water. do you think you need a high capacity transfer pump between the tanks to transfer water between the tanks at sea?
Another great video, thanks.
You should provide some method of residual disinfection for your water storage, especially if you are using watermakers in the future. Have a look at MSN 1845, which is the British Government legislation for the provision and storage of water on board shipping. Lots of good guidelines and good practice for the provision of clean water. Possibly consider a charcoal filter st some point post pump to remove any stale smell in the water. Great job guys, you are really smashing it!
Well done 👍.
Choose the ladies and gentlemen of brupeg a little reminder stainless steel can rust
How’s this gonna happen when you’re actually in the water. It’s going to be such a change. All power to you.
If you find you have algae growing in those tanks you could utilise the clear Perspex and mount UV lights on the outside. Plus it would look pretty damn cool.
A couple spoonfuls of bleach once a month is all that’s needed.
Damo, can that pump actually lift water on the suction side?
Usually that type is mounted down low I've noticed. I can imagine the water going below the level of the pump and it struggling. I could well be wrong of course.
16:52 Every tool has a hammer side. 🙂 And you have a nasty little chafe point between the top cable of the pump and the bulk head. 😞
How are you going to use a pressure equaliser on the tank inlet.
😂 Dame, Dame, Dame... Everything is a hammer, Except a screwdriver - and sometimes that's a chisel. Cheers.
One end is a chisel. The other still seems hammer like to me
Another fab one... would there be any merit in having a light at the back of each tank shining through the water for you see it clearly?
Don't you need a pressure vessel so they pump doesn't cycle on and off all the time?
Ideally you would have a pressure tank after the pump. A small one would suffice.
There generally not needed with household sized pumps with a controller if you can live with the dip in pressure when a valve is opened.
And the dip in pressure on this pump isn’t noticeable
@@ProjectBrupeg I'll bet you notice every time there's dip in pressure when your enjoying a nice hot shower.
❤great job such a tight fit. But you guys are smashing it out . ❤😊 hi Jess xx❤
Any concerns with a check valve to prevent cross feeding and cross contamination of the tanks? A check valve at the tank only allowing water to leave the tank may be cheap insurance.
We did think about that but we want the ability to transfer water using gravity to even our boat trim. With the current set up we can do they by opening both ball valves and letting the water settle.
Very interesting job. If your pump fails do you have a way of getting water out of tanks until it is repaired? I ask under principle of what can fail will fail. Great work.
You could have turned the valves so they face the side, handles would be down for on and sticking out for off, if you have enough room ;)
The plexiglass windows into the water tanks are definitely a great idea. Will make keeping track of water quality much better. Have a great week guys.
Just a Tip/Warning for people considering transparent sight window for an install in different location. It can actually be counter productive to let light into a water tank, as it helps certain things grow. (Probably not An issue for Brupeg in this case since it's in a sealed off room already. XD
I can tell you for a fact that crystal clear, cool, running mountain stream water contains Clampybacter bacteria which is really good for weight loss & shooting shit through the eye of a needle at 40 meters for two weeks until you get the test results back & antibiotics. Don't ask me how I know.
"A pair of pliers make a much better hammer than a screwdriver" Malcolm Flanagan.
That's what my Grandpa always told me, unless it's a screwdriver cause then it's a chisel.👍
I have never had a little red pressure relief button that doesn't leak.
This is water filtering, will you use a water maker as well ?
Not initially. We have so much water storage for such a small crew we will be delaying any water maker due to cost
everybody of a certain age remembers the count 😁
Got the first view! First time ever for me on RUclips.
Perhaps it's better to append the bolt/washer pair by spring washer since the pump by its very nature create vibrations.
Make sure you,all have plenty of fresh water.😂😂😂😂
Will you have onboard desal equipment for emergency/top up?
any chem based white paint turns yellow over time /as in my kitchen appliances did. plenty of fresh water with that pump but 240 volt ? take showers while running? sinks ? toilets ?
Who boat runs on 240z much easier than trying to build/source everything we need in DC
Have you looked at adding a UV light
Holy crap you didn’t get that boat in the water yet?
@@chad6080 oh, I don’t have one I ride a Harley. Not in the boat everybody know the boats are money pits
@@chad6080 what kind of boat do you have Chad does it float?
I’m so sorry to hear of your Harley affliction Mick. I hear Kawasaki make a cream that can help clear that right up. I hope you get well soon. Dame
@@ProjectBrupeg yeah appreciate that. I’ll try to keep it out of the water.
Good on ya. Hope your having a cracker day mate. Dame
Have you got redundancy if the water pump fails? In my little yacht I always had two pumps one on standby to switch to if the other failed
...and you gotta exercise those on a regular basis.
1HP=748W
You should never feed a pump with an inlet line smaller than the inlet size of the pump. Asking for trouble!
True, but they are probably only running one tap at a time so the output flow rate won't max out the inlet flow.
@@dustyfarmer They would actually be better off running both at the same time. One line is to small and will be an under flow (starvation) condition for the pump.
Impressive system. At a kg/l that’s a tidy 5,000 kg of water on board. Should last a little while. Will you be having a water maker?
Eventually but not for a while due to cost
Did you or have you installed a water maker
No not with five ton of water storage
I didn't know you had the Count in Australian culture. Did you all have Sesame Street and Mr Rodgers there also
Yes to seasame street. No to me rogers
What a shame about all that water. Was it not able to be put on a garden or lawn? Anyway, one big step towards launch date!
I mean we could’ve washed someone’s garden away with it…
I have a couple of questions, how much did you pay the machinist to make the adapter? How much did shipping cost you?
Adapter was made locally at around 400AUD and repair was without cost.
When you showed the tank fill with water . You should have put a plastic Nemo fish in the tank. 😂
Now can you build a threaded fitting into supply water tank with a air valve. So no foreign material like bugs / dirt can't fall in the tank.🤔
So what’s going to be your first destination? You must have thought about it >
The river about 100 yards sideways
Every time I see the engine room. I tried to figure out when and where you gonna put that. 85 kW generator is that still in the plan?
It sits behind the gearbox and in front of the holding tanks. It’s 50kw so only a 4cyl engine
На счёт вашего насоса,иногда система автоматики управления насосом уходит в режим аварии и его нужно вручную перезапускать,предусмотрите просто ручной выключатель на выносном пульте.
Jess, what is the name of the guy who is your crewman, sorry I can never get it and sometimes want to include him in my comments. Funny, watching today I had some sense of impending launch, first time. Everyone is doing such an incredible job
His name is Birk. Said Be-erk
Everything’s a hammer unless its a screwdriver Cause that a chisel
How many names does that cat have?
Roughly nine on rotation
What about venting the tanks? Are you planning to have a vent cap on the filler or are you going to install a vent inside the cabin somewhere on a upper deck? Pulling a vaccuum in the tank is bad..
Vent is on deck next to the filler
Make sure the vent never sees salt water, because it will be sucked into the tank. :)
to bad you couldn't add some UV light as an additional purification element to your fresh water system.
Those water tanks with the clear windows will make a lovely aquarium. If I were you I would keep a couple of salamanders in there to eat the algae.
Put a bung in that ball valve on the pump just incase it leaks
This may be a stupid question but why not put a prop shaft between the gearbox and the final drive to the prop. Trying to line that all up on the engine seems to be a recipe for a vibration?
Mads you May want to Try US Composites for your Fiberglass Needs and also look at Kevlar Fiber . ( 5 times stronger then Steel.) they could discount of what you buy
all i could think about was how bad i wanted to toss a goldfish in that tank lol more seriously......where possible always double up your hose clamps
i know you like things to look nice but getting the pump and things level on a boat that going to move in all directions ?????
There is a mythical place on vessels and aircraft of all sorts and sizes called "the datum line". It's the base horizontal plane of the structure. Many things are placed parallel or orthogonal to the datum line, It's just good practice.
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