As a time served mechanic I bought the red strengthening kit and thought it would only be a five minute job. Then I found your video and it saved me cursing and grazed knuckles. Thank you for that. I need to buy those lowering bolts and leave the job for a weekend not a day. Subscribed cheers
You can virtually taste the joy on your face when you discovered the root cause of your noises. All the others are of similar vintage and it was not a wasted exercise replacing those also. Apart from the quiet clunk-free ride you'll now benefit from the full horsepower and better fuel economy. Wins all around. Superbly filmed and documented. ❤
Ah delighted for you! That’s absolutely great information! Seriously - great video for someone who hasn’t done this job. The lowering bolts certainly help with access don’t they? Yourself and Julian going for a spin now? 😂
I've read it's possible without the lowering bolts. I don't see how. Chaffed my arm trying. Are the lowering bolts straight forward to use? Very helpful video. Had my LHD 2001 Smart 450 since new. Thanks 👍
I've heard of some mechanics cutting holes in the firewall or using a lift. The lowering bolts make it more accessible for several jobs including that middle engine mount. It's still difficult, but completely changes ride quality. Do need to jack right up and support the engine, then each bolt can be replaced while supporting the weight of the engine. Then lower carefully making sure no pipes or wires are stretched or binding. They do make the centre moun that much more accessible. I think most Smart Car owners suffer from chaffred arms, everything is so compact.
Hi David In bit of a mess. I should have waited for lowering bolts. Undid right X frame and rear right mount, lowered engine. Still couldn't get centre mount bolts out. Given up for now. Flipping centre mount bolt won't go through. Seems to have dropped a inch down and won't go back up. Any ideas thanks 👍
@@MrHoppy40 I guess you have the engine supported with a trolly jack. I used a small scissor jack on a brick to line up the bolt hole, placing it near the centre engine mount. When I got close I used a screwdriver to hold in position before putting the bolt through.
@@shed52 yes a trolly jack under sump. I'll try scissor jack. I have those lowering bolts on order. They've been upgraded now. BGS 6642 come with a wrench. Would undoing that X frame be at fault for bolt not lining up? Felt like something moved when I undid it. Only can be learn. Thanks 👍
@@MrHoppy40 Not sure if undoing the X Frame is a fault. Should release some of the tension. Once the lowering bolts are in place you will notice the difference. Are you in the UK?
I have a question for you. When you drop the engine cradle using the long bolts, you need to take off any kind of components ( like earth strap, handbrake cables, fuel line connections, ecc...) or it's just possible to drop the cradle directly? Thank you so much!!
On the inner side of the wheel arch on the passenger side, there are a few cables held in by a bracket. If you decide to use the lowering bolts this bracket needs to be released. You will also need to release the handbrake for lowering otherwise, but not necessary to release the handbrake cables at the hub. Other than the bracket I mentioned earlier it will drop smoothly.
I used the same process to access the starter motor. Also necessary to get the car as high up as possible before lowering this gives space to get underneath.
I've been asking my garage for years what the banging on take up is. They say that they have checked the drive train and its all good. They never mention this engine mount. I wonder why :) I know that they took the sump off to change the alternator but I suppose its the top bolts that are accessible.
One clue is a clunk when you start from stationary, then it comes back in a low rev range and then accelerates. Would be good to get it on a ramp and have a look.
Here is my Amazon link amzn.to/3VOtgeS but currently looks like they are out of stock. This link is showing in stock www.tools2go-int.com/13716620/engine-lowering-bolt-set-for-smart-4-pcs and costs £26. I had to experiment with different ideas, but once I had worked out how to do it and jack the car up, I think half a day. Starting again I would give myself a day to do.
As a time served mechanic I bought the red strengthening kit and thought it would only be a five minute job. Then I found your video and it saved me cursing and grazed knuckles. Thank you for that. I need to buy those lowering bolts and leave the job for a weekend not a day. Subscribed cheers
I used them once and thought about selling them. But I keep going back to them, they make life so much more easier. Thanks for the feedback.
You can virtually taste the joy on your face when you discovered the root cause of your noises.
All the others are of similar vintage and it was not a wasted exercise replacing those also.
Apart from the quiet clunk-free ride you'll now benefit from the full horsepower and better fuel economy. Wins all around.
Superbly filmed and documented. ❤
Must admit, I was surpirised to see the front end lift when I pull away, all due to the centre engine mount.
Congratulations!! Great job 👏👏
Glad you liked it.
Ah delighted for you! That’s absolutely great information! Seriously - great video for someone who hasn’t done this job. The lowering bolts certainly help with access don’t they? Yourself and Julian going for a spin now? 😂
Thank you, making a video of the job always takes a little longer. Glad you enjoyed it.
I've read it's possible without the lowering bolts. I don't see how. Chaffed my arm trying. Are the lowering bolts straight forward to use? Very helpful video. Had my LHD 2001 Smart 450 since new. Thanks 👍
I've heard of some mechanics cutting holes in the firewall or using a lift. The lowering bolts make it more accessible for several jobs including that middle engine mount. It's still difficult, but completely changes ride quality. Do need to jack right up and support the engine, then each bolt can be replaced while supporting the weight of the engine. Then lower carefully making sure no pipes or wires are stretched or binding. They do make the centre moun that much more accessible. I think most Smart Car owners suffer from chaffred arms, everything is so compact.
Hi David
In bit of a mess. I should have waited for lowering bolts. Undid right X frame and rear right mount, lowered engine. Still couldn't get centre mount bolts out. Given up for now. Flipping centre mount bolt won't go through. Seems to have dropped a inch down and won't go back up. Any ideas thanks 👍
@@MrHoppy40 I guess you have the engine supported with a trolly jack. I used a small scissor jack on a brick to line up the bolt hole, placing it near the centre engine mount. When I got close I used a screwdriver to hold in position before putting the bolt through.
@@shed52 yes a trolly jack under sump. I'll try scissor jack. I have those lowering bolts on order. They've been upgraded now. BGS 6642 come with a wrench. Would undoing that X frame be at fault for bolt not lining up? Felt like something moved when I undid it. Only can be learn. Thanks 👍
@@MrHoppy40 Not sure if undoing the X Frame is a fault. Should release some of the tension. Once the lowering bolts are in place you will notice the difference. Are you in the UK?
I have a question for you. When you drop the engine cradle using the long bolts, you need to take off any kind of components ( like earth strap, handbrake cables, fuel line connections, ecc...) or it's just possible to drop the cradle directly? Thank you so much!!
On the inner side of the wheel arch on the passenger side, there are a few cables held in by a bracket. If you decide to use the lowering bolts this bracket needs to be released. You will also need to release the handbrake for lowering otherwise, but not necessary to release the handbrake cables at the hub. Other than the bracket I mentioned earlier it will drop smoothly.
I used the same process to access the starter motor. Also necessary to get the car as high up as possible before lowering this gives space to get underneath.
@@shed52 thank you so much!
I've been asking my garage for years what the banging on take up is. They say that they have checked the drive train and its all good. They never mention this engine mount. I wonder why :)
I know that they took the sump off to change the alternator but I suppose its the top bolts that are accessible.
One clue is a clunk when you start from stationary, then it comes back in a low rev range and then accelerates. Would be good to get it on a ramp and have a look.
Hi m8, how long did it take please ??
How much are the lowering bolts ?
Here is my Amazon link amzn.to/3VOtgeS but currently looks like they are out of stock. This link is showing in stock www.tools2go-int.com/13716620/engine-lowering-bolt-set-for-smart-4-pcs and costs £26. I had to experiment with different ideas, but once I had worked out how to do it and jack the car up, I think half a day. Starting again I would give myself a day to do.
@@shed52 thanks m8
where you buy this parts?
I use a company called GSF, for the centre mount I bought on eBay.