Videos like this do not get the credit it deserves i'll be doing this job tomorrow -showing near everything you need to do -where each nut/bolt is located that is involved -each size socket needed I thank you so much
@@1990hondacivic There’s another video on RUclips that better shows how you need to shimmy in the new part, on the side closer to the firewall. Doesn’t seem easy to get in, at least not quickly.
I'm doing this job tomorrow. This is easily the best video I found. I'll be following it step by step. Thank you for the great detail and presentation.
Great video. Simple, straightforward, and showed the steps. Some people skip over in the video and people are left wondering. However this video is perfect and doesn’t waste time.
This has probably been mentioned, but you’ll want to lift up the suspension with a jack (just until it lifts up from the jack stand) and THEN torque everything down. This simulates full load as if the car were sitting down on its own weight and takes the stress off the bushings.
This is the BEST step by step I've seen. I have a 2010 which I assume is the same. You dont even have to mess with the rotor and caliper? I should not pay a mechanic to do this. They quoted me parts and labor over 500$ for both lower arms. I can get the parts for 70 each and do it myself. Thank you for this video
I LEFT 2 TIMES MY CAR WITH THE MECANIC ON DIFFERENT DATES BECAUSE THIS, I SPENT A LOT OF MONEY AND THE JOB WAS VERY BAD, THEY BROKE SOON, NOW I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT I WILL DO IT MYSELF, THANK YOU FOR YOUR MAGNIFIC VIDEO, VERY HELPFULL
Just replaced the rear bushings on my wifes car control arms. This vid was very helpful. I did have issue aligning that big rear bushing bolt. I got it as far up as possible with the control arm angled down as far as needed to get the bolt up. Then I raised the control arm with the jack until it was about level. At that point the bolt threaded right in with no issue. This vid saved me time. Thanks
Great video, I would suggest for the rear bolt, do not use an air impact tool, it may break the cage nut loose. Torque values would be good, not just tighten them , torque them correctly. Lastly, do not install stamped steel LCA’s, only the aluminum ones for the HHR.
Sweet video dude. I have the exact same HHR year, color and steel rims(no hubcaps) too. My HHR failed state inspection for both lower control arms. I noticed you didn't torque the bolts. Have you noticed any issues. Maybe torquing the bolts really don't matter. To save myself $800. I think I may tackle this project by myself with the help of your video. 😎👍
Nice video and as a retired GM field engineer I like 'vitually' everything. The problem lies in finding parts not made in china. Sadly, most pieces are using junky metalurlgy and 'soft' compared to Detroit steel. I tried to go to Canada with Mevotech but found those as well are redone china units. Nicely done, still not made here. There are some reboxed Delco units, moog units, dorman and others I researched-all china. There are some calipers you can purchase that are remanufactured in Chicago and stainless braided stainless lines from Jegs that say Made in USA. If you get the metric kit, it looks to fit. I would recommend better banjo bolts, clips, and copper washers. Rechecking torque after a 'stunt drive' is not a bad idea. There is an alignment hole to the side of the frame bolt that helps to get the long bolt in and wiggly jiggly the control arm a bit with a flat head giant screw driver. The control arm removed was made in USA, I recommend saving it, 'rebushing' it and save for the next 300K miles. My HHR panel has over 300k, what a nice driver and easy to get in and out of compared with the Corvette that you must 'put on'. cheers, stuntgirl
I just got the news mine need replacement on mine. Thank you so much for such a great video. Easy step by step instructions like others have said. This will save me a lot. I thank you.
nice - i just bought a 06 hhr and it wasn't clunking or loose steering, just felt like a bad alignment - drifts to right - chevy dealer showed me the bad bushings esp on R side - over $1000 repair job - so i'm like, i can do this - looks WAY easier than i thought it might be. Your video is well done and I like the quickness. more or less, piece of cake, and it won't be costing me anywhere NEAR a grand to fix myself. subbed!
Wow what a great video :). Easy step by step. I have to do this on my 08 Cobalt SS. The bushings are for sure just like that. Noticed the play in them before and have had a knocking sound since I got the car. I was thinking of upgrading the bushings but getting fully loaded control arms is easy and I only daily the car. Ok the music is getting to me now lol ehhhh!. Thanks again.
Don't forget to preload ya bushings. If ya torque them while your suspension is at its full travel. You can bind up or even tear your bushings when setting it down
Awesome job. My 16 year old just bought one, and his steering is a mess. Clunky, and feels like there is a "void" from left to right, and vice versa. These vids help! I watched it to make sure I had all I needed in the way of tools! Thanks Garret!
Yeah same here 2010 HHR redoing entire front and rear suspension. 149K. For my daughter. Transmission service, oil change, blower resistor, rear shocks, struts, sway bar links, cv axle, ball joints, CA bushings, throttle body cleaning.
HHR’s and Cobalts are notorious for the “Clunk” steering. Control arms, tie rods, and more commonly the intermediate steering shaft are all things to look at. Maybe even the rack & pinion if all else fails.
Man this is a great Vid. I wish I had seen this last week. I have all the tools and lift and stands & sockets. Unfortunately I did not think of checking on YouTune first. I just paid $730.00 to my trusted mechanic to do this very job.
Im doing this on my 2009 hhr but my bolts were seized so i had to get a heavyduty machine drill my impact drill was not cutting it. Waiting for the part and also need new tires and alignment. Noticed you did not torque the bolts down or ball joint?
I am doing this next week. But I am also changing out wheel bearings and upgrading brakes and calipers. Since I have to pull the knuckles for the wheel bearings and new caliper brackets anyways. That may come out first and put the new arms in with them out of the way.
Oh man that's a difficult one. Are you sure it's spinning sometimes it feels like it's lined up but the bolt isn't inserted enough for the threads to catch. If it is spinning you'll need to reach something like a pry bar behind it at least until you can get the bolt started. Then I would hit it with a fast impact gun, in really short bursts.
@@Scooter_911 unfortunately yes, I can spin it with my finger, which is all the room allowed. I heard about going threw the floor by the clutch petal but really trying to avoid that haha. And figures the car is ready to drive besides the two rear frame bolts😠
@@aaronmenchinger can you use a cut off wheel and cut a slot to access the bolt head and do a spot weld on it? maybe crimp the body onto it but either way you need access to hold it and then make it a permanent part of the body, mig/tig so not to light your carpet on fire or your garage or house...neighborhood, town....National Forest.....Planet.....
@@stuntgirl56-therachelvande24 honestly I think I used tin snips to cut a foldable window in the thin sheet metal. Getting the carpet out of the way and back in was worse. I used vice grips to hold nut. But yes alot of people weld the nut
Hello can someone help me. Since 2 days ago I have extreme loose steering that happens when I am driving straight. I also hear a cluncking noise from right side of car. Everyone tells me the loose steering has to do with bad lower control arms. The looseness disappears if I move the steering wheel about a inch.
At 0:24 seconds I show you a simple test to check your lower control arms. More than likely that is your problem, but it could be your tie rods, steering linkage, or rack and pinion. You'll have to get down there and start checking components. Diagnosing a problem like that is impossible just by the symptoms because multiple failed components can result in a similar symptom. Good luck!
@@Scooter_911 . Raised the car..the silent blocks on the lower control arms are ripped on right side passenger side. Going home from work the steering wheel was very loose almost dead and sloppy. It seems to correct itself if I turn slightly
CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO ABOUT HHR WHEN THE RED LIGHT TURN ON AND SAYS NEED MAINTENANCE , THE MECANIC WAS TELL ME SOMETHING HAPPEN ON REAR IN TO THE WEELS...
Dang. I hate it when that happens. Try to wedge something under the head of the bolt and pry it outwards while turning it. Sometimes if you get it past the bad spot you can get it the rest of the way out
My front control arms on the right side have worn out and ripped bushings. For the past 10 days me car has excessive loose steering. The loose steering is frightening
Another great video. I would like to see you do sway bar/anti-roll bar bushings on a HHR. I have read where it can be done without lowering the subframe, but man is it tight. What is your opinion? Semper Fi, USMC.
Hmmmm I'm sure I can be done that way but I'm sure it's hairy and requires a lot of swear words. Honestly you only have to partially lower the subframe on the back one side. It's not too bad.
@@Scooter_911 LOL, I think swear words and car repairs go together. Just like you cannot have peanut butter without jelly. The HHR is my present project/play car, I always have something in the garage to play with, keeps me out of trouble with my wife, that is why we are still together after 45 years, LOL. The front bolt on the drivers side is definitely tight. Thank you for your response, I appreciate it.
I am having so much trouble with getting the rear bushing aligned into the right spot. Easily the most time consuming part of this procedure. Takes me like 15-30 minutes just to go back and forth tightening and untightening wiggling and pulling to get it alingend
Am I to believe that you used a Mac wrench and a Snap-On ratchet simultaneously on the SAME BOLT without the cosmos opening a supermassive blackhole inside your garage, swallowing the entire planet whole... or did you edit that out?
Muaahhahahahaha! If you look closely you can see that the Snap-On ratchet is fitted with a MATCO SOCKET too!!!!! Also I just fixed it in post. You can see shimmering fragments of the shattered multiverse in the background in some scenes.
Everything was so easy except the bolt for the bushing. For some reason the bushing wont align with the metal so the bolt gets inside the bottom part and into the bushing but hits the roof since it ain't aligned. Might end up hammering the top of part of bushing
Great video,why not just press in new bushing for 10 dollars. Just about every has a press that works on cars or know someone who does.saves quite bit of your money.
Warning cation any one the bolt going threw sub fram should be soaked in 50/50 atf aciton days. Bfofore get the top middle and sleaves behind the rubber and might need to be cut it can b night mare. If u live in a place where we salt roads their is a caged nut on top if it starts spining cut it with sazoll and grinde remove hole sub fram to fix just head up sorry
Omfg dude that has to be the absolute worst/most annoying background music ive EVER heard. Hate to be negative, and do whatever i can to avoid negativity or cutting someone down. But after hearing that crap for Four and a half minutes i couldnt take it anymore. So if it effected me to that extent, im sure im not the only one. So i did my best to make sure i made this comment as positive as possible despite its negative nature lol! Have a good day dude??
Videos like this do not get the credit it deserves
i'll be doing this job tomorrow
-showing near everything you need to do
-where each nut/bolt is located that is involved
-each size socket needed
I thank you so much
Thank you very much. I really hope it helps you out!
As a mechanic willing to toot my own horn.... I will say this video is a home run. Plus the music is funky.... digging it buddy.
It took me more time set up the car for the repair than the repair itself, perfect helpful video. Very uncomplicated straight forward. Awesome!
That’s crazy, I’m having the worst of luck getting the stupid thing in place propelry
@@1990hondacivic There’s another video on RUclips that better shows how you need to shimmy in the new part, on the side closer to the firewall. Doesn’t seem easy to get in, at least not quickly.
I'm doing this job tomorrow. This is easily the best video I found. I'll be following it step by step. Thank you for the great detail and presentation.
That's awesome! Good luck!
Love the video no long intro talk straight to the action. Including the sockets needed and tools. If only there were more videos like yours.
This comment ☝️
Great video. Simple, straightforward, and showed the steps. Some people skip over in the video and people are left wondering. However this video is perfect and doesn’t waste time.
Best HHR Vid DIYS lower control arms replacement... Not intimidating anymore ! Thank You.
Great job!👍
This has probably been mentioned, but you’ll want to lift up the suspension with a jack (just until it lifts up from the jack stand) and THEN torque everything down. This simulates full load as if the car were sitting down on its own weight and takes the stress off the bushings.
This is the BEST step by step I've seen. I have a 2010 which I assume is the same. You dont even have to mess with the rotor and caliper? I should not pay a mechanic to do this. They quoted me parts and labor over 500$ for both lower arms. I can get the parts for 70 each and do it myself. Thank you for this video
That's so good to hear! Good luck!
I LEFT 2 TIMES MY CAR WITH THE MECANIC ON DIFFERENT DATES BECAUSE THIS, I SPENT A LOT OF MONEY AND THE JOB WAS VERY BAD, THEY BROKE SOON, NOW I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT I WILL DO IT MYSELF, THANK YOU FOR YOUR MAGNIFIC VIDEO, VERY HELPFULL
Just replaced the rear bushings on my wifes car control arms. This vid was very helpful. I did have issue aligning that big rear bushing bolt. I got it as far up as possible with the control arm angled down as far as needed to get the bolt up. Then I raised the control arm with the jack until it was about level. At that point the bolt threaded right in with no issue. This vid saved me time. Thanks
Great video, I would suggest for the rear bolt, do not use an air impact tool, it may break the cage nut loose. Torque values would be good, not just tighten them , torque them correctly. Lastly, do not install stamped steel LCA’s, only the aluminum ones for the HHR.
Very good video. The only improvement I would suggest is that you specify the Torque settings in places where you use the torque wrench.
Thanks for the input! I did include them in the video description but maybe I should start including them in the video itself
Or you could just google it R. Dunkley.
I sor think he did torque em
Sweet video dude. I have the exact same HHR year, color and steel rims(no hubcaps) too. My HHR failed state inspection for both lower control arms. I noticed you didn't torque the bolts. Have you noticed any issues. Maybe torquing the bolts really don't matter. To save myself $800. I think I may tackle this project by myself with the help of your video. 😎👍
Nice video and as a retired GM field engineer I like 'vitually' everything. The problem lies in finding parts not made in china. Sadly, most pieces are using junky metalurlgy and 'soft' compared to Detroit steel. I tried to go to Canada with Mevotech but found those as well are redone china units. Nicely done, still not made here. There are some reboxed Delco units, moog units, dorman and others I researched-all china. There are some calipers you can purchase that are remanufactured in Chicago and stainless braided stainless lines from Jegs that say Made in USA. If you get the metric kit, it looks to fit. I would recommend better banjo bolts, clips, and copper washers. Rechecking torque after a 'stunt drive' is not a bad idea. There is an alignment hole to the side of the frame bolt that helps to get the long bolt in and wiggly jiggly the control arm a bit with a flat head giant screw driver. The control arm removed was made in USA, I recommend saving it, 'rebushing' it and save for the next 300K miles. My HHR panel has over 300k, what a nice driver and easy to get in and out of compared with the Corvette that you must 'put on'. cheers, stuntgirl
Excellent quality vid with good visual quality, notes and some funky music to boot. Thx
Very helpful video mate! As I type this comment, I've finished removing my control arms and now it's time to put new ones on. Thanks a lot!
Glad to hear it! Good luck!
I just got the news mine need replacement on mine. Thank you so much for such a great video. Easy step by step instructions like others have said. This will save me a lot. I thank you.
nice - i just bought a 06 hhr and it wasn't clunking or loose steering, just felt like a bad alignment - drifts to right - chevy dealer showed me the bad bushings esp on R side - over $1000 repair job - so i'm like, i can do this - looks WAY easier than i thought it might be. Your video is well done and I like the quickness. more or less, piece of cake, and it won't be costing me anywhere NEAR a grand to fix myself. subbed!
ended up doing the job in an autozone parking lot with only hand tools - not ideal, but i got it done
Wow what a great video :). Easy step by step. I have to do this on my 08 Cobalt SS. The bushings are for sure just like that. Noticed the play in them before and have had a knocking sound since I got the car. I was thinking of upgrading the bushings but getting fully loaded control arms is easy and I only daily the car. Ok the music is getting to me now lol ehhhh!. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video, will be replacing mine soon. This is a very well made, professional video!
Thank you very much!
Don't forget to preload ya bushings. If ya torque them while your suspension is at its full travel. You can bind up or even tear your bushings when setting it down
Awesome job. My 16 year old just bought one, and his steering is a mess. Clunky, and feels like there is a "void" from left to right, and vice versa. These vids help! I watched it to make sure I had all I needed in the way of tools! Thanks Garret!
So glad to hear it! That's exactly why I make these videos! Good luck and happy wrenching!
Yeah same here 2010 HHR redoing entire front and rear suspension. 149K. For my daughter. Transmission service, oil change, blower resistor, rear shocks, struts, sway bar links, cv axle, ball joints, CA bushings, throttle body cleaning.
HHR’s and Cobalts are notorious for the “Clunk” steering. Control arms, tie rods, and more commonly the intermediate steering shaft are all things to look at. Maybe even the rack & pinion if all else fails.
Great vid! Why did you choose to replace the entire control arm if it was just the bushing that was bad?
Great vid with clear instructions. That music is funky as hell too.
Thank you very much! I hope it helped you out!
@@Scooter_911 Yep. The job was a lot easier than expected tbh.
@@michaelcraig9744 killer!
Man this is a great Vid. I wish I had seen this last week. I have all the tools and lift and stands & sockets. Unfortunately I did not think of checking on YouTune first. I just paid $730.00 to my trusted mechanic to do this very job.
+1 vote for this video being amazingly helpful. Thank you!
You make it look too look easy ,I'll do it myself too,thanks for the great helpful video
Glad you liked it! Good luck!
How’d you put the ball joint on so easily? Don’t you have to hammer it in or press it in?
Im doing this on my 2009 hhr but my bolts were seized so i had to get a heavyduty machine drill my impact drill was not cutting it. Waiting for the part and also need new tires and alignment. Noticed you did not torque the bolts down or ball joint?
I am doing this next week. But I am also changing out wheel bearings and upgrading brakes and calipers. Since I have to pull the knuckles for the wheel bearings and new caliper brackets anyways.
That may come out first and put the new arms in with them out of the way.
This is an excellent how to video. Thanks buddy. Dennis
Best how to do control arm video. Thanks. My 09 hhr ss needs drivers side.
Great job on video. Very helpful on my future project
Did you have a wobble after changing the control arms, I'm thinking it might the rotors not sure until its aligned
So it looks like you order a whole new arm with all new bushings and replace the whole thing ?
Nice vid. Problem I'm having ist the nut inside the frame that the bolt that goes threw the control arm bushing, is spinning...any advice?
Oh man that's a difficult one. Are you sure it's spinning sometimes it feels like it's lined up but the bolt isn't inserted enough for the threads to catch. If it is spinning you'll need to reach something like a pry bar behind it at least until you can get the bolt started. Then I would hit it with a fast impact gun, in really short bursts.
@@Scooter_911 unfortunately yes, I can spin it with my finger, which is all the room allowed. I heard about going threw the floor by the clutch petal but really trying to avoid that haha. And figures the car is ready to drive besides the two rear frame bolts😠
@@aaronmenchinger can you use a cut off wheel and cut a slot to access the bolt head and do a spot weld on it? maybe crimp the body onto it but either way you need access to hold it and then make it a permanent part of the body, mig/tig so not to light your carpet on fire or your garage or house...neighborhood, town....National Forest.....Planet.....
@@stuntgirl56-therachelvande24 honestly I think I used tin snips to cut a foldable window in the thin sheet metal. Getting the carpet out of the way and back in was worse. I used vice grips to hold nut. But yes alot of people weld the nut
The bolt that holds the bushing in is spinning and spreading apart the frame. Any ideas?
I second this
Hello can someone help me. Since 2 days ago I have extreme loose steering that happens when I am driving straight. I also hear a cluncking noise from right side of car. Everyone tells me the loose steering has to do with bad lower control arms. The looseness disappears if I move the steering wheel about a inch.
At 0:24 seconds I show you a simple test to check your lower control arms. More than likely that is your problem, but it could be your tie rods, steering linkage, or rack and pinion. You'll have to get down there and start checking components. Diagnosing a problem like that is impossible just by the symptoms because multiple failed components can result in a similar symptom. Good luck!
@@Scooter_911 . Raised the car..the silent blocks on the lower control arms are ripped on right side passenger side. Going home from work the steering wheel was very loose almost dead and sloppy. It seems to correct itself if I turn slightly
Great video wish my bolts came out like that the cage nut was spining turned into a night mare
Thanks for the very helpful video. Really good quality
Thank you, it helped great! Sweet Music too!!!
glad to hear it and thank you!
Great video. VERY helpful. THANKS!
Wow - my rear bushing is NOT going in that easily! (2011 HHR) 2:50
Great Quality Video , thank you
CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO ABOUT HHR WHEN THE RED LIGHT TURN ON AND SAYS NEED MAINTENANCE , THE MECANIC WAS TELL ME SOMETHING HAPPEN ON REAR IN TO THE WEELS...
What’s the cheapest route to buy control arms ? Having the same issue also thanks for the video
I don't trust "no-name" online parts. You can always call around to local auto parts stores and see who has the best price. Good luck!
Amazing and very helpful but the music is distracting
What is the part number so I can order this tie rod .
The 21mm bolt is giving me trouble I was turning at it for at least 15 min and it doesn't seem to be coming out. Any suggestions?
Dang. I hate it when that happens. Try to wedge something under the head of the bolt and pry it outwards while turning it. Sometimes if you get it past the bad spot you can get it the rest of the way out
My front control arms on the right side have worn out and ripped bushings. For the past 10 days me car has excessive loose steering. The loose steering is frightening
Another great video. I would like to see you do sway bar/anti-roll bar bushings on a HHR. I have read where it can be done without lowering the subframe, but man is it tight. What is your opinion? Semper Fi, USMC.
Hmmmm I'm sure I can be done that way but I'm sure it's hairy and requires a lot of swear words. Honestly you only have to partially lower the subframe on the back one side. It's not too bad.
@@Scooter_911 LOL, I think swear words and car repairs go together. Just like you cannot have peanut butter without jelly. The HHR is my present project/play car, I always have something in the garage to play with, keeps me out of trouble with my wife, that is why we are still together after 45 years, LOL. The front bolt on the drivers side is definitely tight. Thank you for your response, I appreciate it.
@@hammerhead6537 good luck!
Great video. The music wasn't to bad either 😊
Thank you very much! I hope it helped you out!
Thanks.Bro fix it with no problem
Doing mine this weekend no doubt
I am having so much trouble with getting the rear bushing aligned into the right spot. Easily the most time consuming part of this procedure. Takes me like 15-30 minutes just to go back and forth tightening and untightening wiggling and pulling to get it alingend
I like those Factory wheels
Hey 👋. Thanks so much for the video ! Perfect
Thank you buddy doing mine today
I need the control arms with the 1 3/4" grommets and every single source sends it with 2"! SOB I'm in a mess.
Great video! keep the good work, thank you very much
Wow thanks so much!!! The hell with 2800 dollars!!
may I buy steel arms for my HHR or should it be aluminum only? What's the difference?
Nazi Grammar
Aluminum
Awesome video and thanks!!
Great job. Thanks for the well put together video. Hopefully SnapOn will give you some $ for product placement!
Am I to believe that you used a Mac wrench and a Snap-On ratchet simultaneously on the SAME BOLT without the cosmos opening a supermassive blackhole inside your garage, swallowing the entire planet whole... or did you edit that out?
Muaahhahahahaha! If you look closely you can see that the Snap-On ratchet is fitted with a MATCO SOCKET too!!!!! Also I just fixed it in post. You can see shimmering fragments of the shattered multiverse in the background in some scenes.
Satan himself fears you.
@@CoyleTools good, he's the one who sold me that ratchet. Side bar he also plays a pretty good fiddle...boy
Question: When the devil rosins up his bow and fire flies from his fingertips, how come the bow doesn't burn up?
@@CoyleTools two words: carbon fiber.
Thank you so much for this!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks you so Much really help me 🤙
0:30 should really use a handbrake when working on a car haha
Ya got me there!
What a fun beat too
Thanks dude! The tunes seem to catch a lot of hate here on the channel haha
Everything was so easy except the bolt for the bushing. For some reason the bushing wont align with the metal so the bolt gets inside the bottom part and into the bushing but hits the roof since it ain't aligned. Might end up hammering the top of part of bushing
Why would you need an alignment?? Nothing about the alignment was changed
Very informative video thanks
very. good video
Thank you very much!
This works for Cobalts too!
Thank you now I can change my granny’s shit😩😩😩
Magnificent
Nice video, subscriped.
very helpful thankyou
Music sucks but I gave you a like thanks
The only thing I can think of that wasn't included were the torque specs.
You can't be serious with this music bro
It’s so funny and way too
Loud
Next episode should be about why that HHR passenger side headlamp is dim lol
Tell me about it.
If only my HHR had zero rust underneath like this video shows,
wow the HHR is exactly the same as the Cobalt underneath
That music is it
Great video,why not just press in new bushing for 10 dollars. Just about every has a press that works on cars or know someone who does.saves quite bit of your money.
That sound track tho...
Hahahaha only the finest the microkorg can offer!
On another note all of my original tunes are up on my sound cloud account. There's a link in the description
Gary Standley iOS
Music is horrible
Warning cation any one the bolt going threw sub fram should be soaked in 50/50 atf aciton days. Bfofore get the top middle and sleaves behind the rubber and might need to be cut it can b night mare. If u live in a place where we salt roads their is a caged nut on top if it starts spining cut it with sazoll and grinde remove hole sub fram to fix just head up sorry
Thank you, this awesome, car care center wants to charge to me 950 for this easy job
Awesome dude! That's exactly why I make these videos!
Not so easy in the salt states. Rear bolt has to be cut out every time.
Not a bad video but I think that burned out headlight was the problem the entire time
Helpful video, awful music though.
stayed for the music
Best video on this but, weird music. lol
BTW parts online are $180.00 Gurr!
Omfg dude that has to be the absolute worst/most annoying background music ive EVER heard. Hate to be negative, and do whatever i can to avoid negativity or cutting someone down. But after hearing that crap for Four and a half minutes i couldnt take it anymore. So if it effected me to that extent, im sure im not the only one. So i did my best to make sure i made this comment as positive as possible despite its negative nature lol! Have a good day dude??
I have this car and that’s the wrong spot for those jack stands! Dangerous
The music was so bad I couldn't get past the first minute
🤔👾👾👾🐴🐴🐴🐝