Finally someone who understands the router plate shouldn't be in the dead center of the table! Kudos for showing how to do it right! Too many videos out there doing it the wrong way.
That's just awesome! I need this bad. This and a bench are my goals this week. This will free up sooooooooo much space in the garage for me and just make everything from productivity to storage to dust collection and organization do much easier and better. It'll also go perfectly with the bench/cabinet I'm building for my jobsite saw. Thanks for posting 🍻
I plan to build one, but think I might add a couple of cleats that fit into the dog holes from underneath and then into holes on the sides to give it more support.
Hi Ron, great content, I’ve been enjoying the education for over a year now. THANK YOU! I’m more of an amateur woodworker. Mainly projects for my wife and kids. You’ve inspired me to convert a flip top table I use for cabinet making into a version of your table with the dog holes. I used an mft replacement top as a template to cut perfect 20mm holes...spaced perfectly apart. I have been trying to use bench dogs with my Mikita track saw to cut perfect 90 degree lines. Unfortunately despite my best efforts, my cut line is always at a slight angle. Though the dog holes appear straight down, there is very subtle racking in the dog when I go to cut. I am wondering if I am putting too much lateral pressure attempting to keep the fence against the dogs? Has this ever happened to you...any tips?
I've bought all the plans. My PSS is in progress -- I've paused on milling the top to understand the router attachment.. I don't understand why I couldn't mill the opening, the two fence T-slots, and the miter-track slot directly in the top of my PSS. Please explain. I do understand the flexibility of placing the PSRT in several different positions around the PSS. However, I'm a 1-day a week recreational woodworker. I just want one option. I want simple. Please advise.
I have built many router tables over the years and all were thick and heavy. My #1 goal was to make it from a single piece of 18mm ply with no projections. I used deductive design rather than additive. My design goal with everything is to take away everything possible without giving up any function. Also, my Router table is part of a system and cannot project above the bench more than 18mm or it will interfear with bench use.
@@TheSmartWoodshop I've seen you newest use of the bench and I will copy it when I make some time. I think will solve a lot of my issues in my small work space. I made your miter saw station and love it.
Hey Ron, how do you cut your own miter slot at the bottom of the table? I can’t find an appropriate router bit for the life of me to do the job. Even if I use a 3/4” straight bit going down 3/8 of an inch, I still don’t know how to cut the slot. Can you please elaborate on that jig of yours and what bit and where you got it from?
Hi Are, I have made many videos on pattern routing This one explains it clearly. This is a different project, but technique is the same. Hope this helps Ron ruclips.net/video/r-SF_ejbvso/видео.html
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thank you, very useful tutorial, however, does not tell me how to make my own standard miter slots (3/4" wide, 3/8" deep + a wider slot at the bottom). There are plenty of choices for router bits that can profile T-Tracks/Keyhole but none that I could find that profiles a miter slot. Anyways, thanks again for all that you do, your videos and plans have made me a better woodworker. btw, the PSB and PSRT combination is just awesome and I am so enjoying mine.
@@arefmoin814 Basically you get 1/2" ply for your template., use your track saw to cut a slot, or even cut two pieces apart and reassemble them, so that your gap is 7/8". Center that where you want your track (you would mark a line for one edge of your track on the top, offset by 1/16"). Then you route the slot. This assumes a collet 1/8" wider than your bit. So 3/8 for 1/4. or 5/8 for 1/2. For something this simple, you can actually make the slot without a template. Just get a straight edge or fence and either run your collet or base moving the fence over to take a widening cut. However, you have to know about router direction. Say your fence is to the left of your bit. You push the router away from you. Then you move the fence further to the left, and again move the router away from you. If you do this in a number of other ways, you can make a fairly large mess.
Once again, very nice. Your not using the parf guide anymore to drill the 20 mm dog holes, instead using a template? What bit are you using in the router to drill the holes?
Hi Dave, I use the Parf MkII for all of my personal tools. I created a shop-made template for those that don't have access to the Parf, I personally will stick with Parf. I have a video coming up soon showing how to make the shop version.
Very cool, but I would still to the 20mm with the parf guide. I’ll be buying the plans for this when you have then in your site please let us know. Thanks again
You can use MDF for a lot of things. And if you look at Peter Millard's pages you can find lots of similar tools using MDF. However, this cantilevers off the edge of the bench, and MDF is both heavier and a lot weaker than plywood. If you were really set to use MDF, one option would be to add some framing to the bottom to support the part that projects. Or you could put a mini inverted smart cradle frame so that the overhanging parts would be supported against the skirt of the bench. Basically, it would be a set of brackets Paulk style.
You definitely can, i think its just easier to quickly lock it into place. With clamps, they can easily slide the template off location slightly as you tighten them down. The pins also allow no impediment to the router in the case of the narrow templates
The plans are in both metric and imperial (Standard) but I choose to build mine in metric as it is just easier to +/-/*// 10 than fractions, plus an mm is 25 to and inch vs 16 which is more accurate than 1/16 + or -
@@TheSmartWoodshop I also try to work in the metric system as much as I can for the very same reasons. It is a little easier to do up here in Canada though ...
@@TheSmartWoodshop It isn't more accurate. It is more granular. You can miss whichever by the same amount. Does make sense to make a metric layout in metric. Otherwise it is a stupid system. Most of the claims made for it, like "it's decimal" relative to imperial, are BS. Decimal inches have been around longer that the Metric system.
Let's see if I understand this: You designed your "STS" workstation to support a router at one end. Then you discover the Woodpecker fence system, fall in love with it, and design a bench extension that covers the original router station. In computing, this is known as a "kludge" -- a fix that works, but is far from elegant, like shimming something into place because you didn't layout properly. Then you decide to market the plan, so you also design a fence to go with it. Then you decide to add a second extension for a second router. So now you have two 15 pound routers, plus lumber, hanging off the side of a bench that was never designed for that type of load. Question: Why not re-design the STS so there is no useless gaping hole (former router station) at one end, and add more support for the extra weight?
The added load is probably not an issue. The beam on a 30 foot trimaran, the Wharram, is a light wood truss on the vertical (so as if one side was 3/4" ply) and otherwise a triangle shape with 2 8 inch sides. In other words, orders of magnitude greater dimension on the Paulk bench, and 3/4" material, to support a router, compared to the beam that supports the main mast, and all the seaway racking on an ocean going trimaran.
![[Gifted] A Router Table Coping Sled With A Couple Of Great Features!](/img/1.gif)
Finally someone who understands the router plate shouldn't be in the dead center of the table!
Kudos for showing how to do it right! Too many videos out there doing it the wrong way.
That's just awesome! I need this bad. This and a bench are my goals this week. This will free up sooooooooo much space in the garage for me and just make everything from productivity to storage to dust collection and organization do much easier and better. It'll also go perfectly with the bench/cabinet I'm building for my jobsite saw.
Thanks for posting 🍻
I like it Ron
I plan to build one, but think I might add a couple of cleats that fit into the dog holes from underneath and then into holes on the sides to give it more support.
Hi Ron, great content, I’ve been enjoying the education for over a year now. THANK YOU! I’m more of an amateur woodworker. Mainly projects for my wife and kids. You’ve inspired me to convert a flip top table I use for cabinet making into a version of your table with the dog holes. I used an mft replacement top as a template to cut perfect 20mm holes...spaced perfectly apart. I have been trying to use bench dogs with my Mikita track saw to cut perfect 90 degree lines. Unfortunately despite my best efforts, my cut line is always at a slight angle. Though the dog holes appear straight down, there is very subtle racking in the dog when I go to cut. I am wondering if I am putting too much lateral pressure attempting to keep the fence against the dogs? Has this ever happened to you...any tips?
I've bought all the plans. My PSS is in progress -- I've paused on milling the top to understand the router attachment.. I don't understand why I couldn't mill the opening, the two fence T-slots, and the miter-track slot directly in the top of my PSS. Please explain.
I do understand the flexibility of placing the PSRT in several different positions around the PSS. However, I'm a 1-day a week recreational woodworker. I just want one option. I want simple. Please advise.
No problem putting it directly in the top. I did it that way for years. Both methods have their pros and cons. 😎🤙
I built a router top like this and mounted it on 2x2 to give a little more rigidity and eliminated need to cut all the dadoes on the bottom.
I have built many router tables over the years and all were thick and heavy. My #1 goal was to make it from a single piece of 18mm ply with no projections. I used deductive design rather than additive. My design goal with everything is to take away everything possible without giving up any function. Also, my Router table is part of a system and cannot project above the bench more than 18mm or it will interfear with bench use.
@@TheSmartWoodshop I've seen you newest use of the bench and I will copy it when I make some time. I think will solve a lot of my issues in my small work space. I made your miter saw station and love it.
Thanks for sharing that!
Hey Ron, how do you cut your own miter slot at the bottom of the table? I can’t find an appropriate router bit for the life of me to do the job. Even if I use a 3/4” straight bit going down 3/8 of an inch, I still don’t know how to cut the slot. Can you please elaborate on that jig of yours and what bit and where you got it from?
Hi Are, I have made many videos on pattern routing This one explains it clearly. This is a different project, but technique is the same. Hope this helps Ron ruclips.net/video/r-SF_ejbvso/видео.html
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thank you, very useful tutorial, however, does not tell me how to make my own standard miter slots (3/4" wide, 3/8" deep + a wider slot at the bottom). There are plenty of choices for router bits that can profile T-Tracks/Keyhole but none that I could find that profiles a miter slot. Anyways, thanks again for all that you do, your videos and plans have made me a better woodworker. btw, the PSB and PSRT combination is just awesome and I am so enjoying mine.
@@arefmoin814 Basically you get 1/2" ply for your template., use your track saw to cut a slot, or even cut two pieces apart and reassemble them, so that your gap is 7/8". Center that where you want your track (you would mark a line for one edge of your track on the top, offset by 1/16"). Then you route the slot. This assumes a collet 1/8" wider than your bit. So 3/8 for 1/4. or 5/8 for 1/2.
For something this simple, you can actually make the slot without a template. Just get a straight edge or fence and either run your collet or base moving the fence over to take a widening cut. However, you have to know about router direction. Say your fence is to the left of your bit. You push the router away from you. Then you move the fence further to the left, and again move the router away from you. If you do this in a number of other ways, you can make a fairly large mess.
Once again, very nice. Your not using the parf guide anymore to drill the 20 mm dog holes, instead using a template? What bit are you using in the router to drill the holes?
Hi Dave, I use the Parf MkII for all of my personal tools. I created a shop-made template for those that don't have access to the Parf, I personally will stick with Parf. I have a video coming up soon showing how to make the shop version.
@@TheSmartWoodshop what type of router bit did you use for plunge routing the 20mm holes from your template?
I would like to see this router extension mounted to the table.
Very cool, but I would still to the 20mm with the parf guide. I’ll be buying the plans for this when you have then in your site please let us know. Thanks again
I use the Parf guide for my own tools, but wanted to provide an optional method for those that cannot get the Parf.
Dumb question. Are the 96 mm holes on center or edge to edge of the holes?
Centers
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks
For those who don't need to prioritize for lightweight portability, could MDF be used?
You can use MDF for a lot of things. And if you look at Peter Millard's pages you can find lots of similar tools using MDF. However, this cantilevers off the edge of the bench, and MDF is both heavier and a lot weaker than plywood. If you were really set to use MDF, one option would be to add some framing to the bottom to support the part that projects. Or you could put a mini inverted smart cradle frame so that the overhanging parts would be supported against the skirt of the bench. Basically, it would be a set of brackets Paulk style.
Ron.... since you drill all of the 32 mm holes first why not just clamp the router templates in place vs brad nailing them?
You definitely can, i think its just easier to quickly lock it into place. With clamps, they can easily slide the template off location slightly as you tighten them down. The pins also allow no impediment to the router in the case of the narrow templates
I like how you just say fuck it , ill work in metric ! Good job man !
The plans are in both metric and imperial (Standard) but I choose to build mine in metric as it is just easier to +/-/*// 10 than fractions, plus an mm is 25 to and inch vs 16 which is more accurate than 1/16 + or -
@@TheSmartWoodshop I also try to work in the metric system as much as I can for the very same reasons. It is a little easier to do up here in Canada though ...
@@TheSmartWoodshop It isn't more accurate. It is more granular. You can miss whichever by the same amount. Does make sense to make a metric layout in metric. Otherwise it is a stupid system. Most of the claims made for it, like "it's decimal" relative to imperial, are BS. Decimal inches have been around longer that the Metric system.
Let's see if I understand this: You designed your "STS" workstation to support a router at one end. Then you discover the Woodpecker fence system, fall in love with it, and design a bench extension that covers the original router station. In computing, this is known as a "kludge" -- a fix that works, but is far from elegant, like shimming something into place because you didn't layout properly.
Then you decide to market the plan, so you also design a fence to go with it. Then you decide to add a second extension for a second router. So now you have two 15 pound routers, plus lumber, hanging off the side of a bench that was never designed for that type of load.
Question: Why not re-design the STS so there is no useless gaping hole (former router station) at one end, and add more support for the extra weight?
Let's see your designs.
The added load is probably not an issue. The beam on a 30 foot trimaran, the Wharram, is a light wood truss on the vertical (so as if one side was 3/4" ply) and otherwise a triangle shape with 2 8 inch sides. In other words, orders of magnitude greater dimension on the Paulk bench, and 3/4" material, to support a router, compared to the beam that supports the main mast, and all the seaway racking on an ocean going trimaran.