I like how Ron barely shows that and if you don’t have a part guide, your gonna miss his creative genius with a storage solution like a PVC pipe! Way to go Ron!
I love this for the flexibility it provides, even if you don't need mobility. It looks like the center of the router bit is about 9.5" from the front of the table. Ron, has this been sufficient for wider panels, or do you do those elsewhere? Has anyone put the router further back and cantilevered out a bit further - maybe just 96 mm more?
Hi Ron. Got the PSB plans and looking to buy the PSRT plans as well. You use a lot of templates/patterns in your work (and thanks for including them in the PSB plans). Any chance of a set of template only plans that goes more into some of what you used in this video?
I don't have any template designs for the PSRT as I just made them up in the shop. Maybe in the future, I will have some time to drop back and design them in SU.
I saw that you used your router fence to make this fence. What if we don't have a router fence yet. Do you have a suggested way to make the fence without a fence? Would that be to use an edge guide?
You could make the fence parts and assemble the base and sub fence and then use it to make the split fence. Alternativly you could just clamp a straight piece of ply to your router table with an area cut out for the bit and use it to make the fence.
Ron in your store the description of the router table indicates it’s compatible with the Compact Bench but doesn’t mention the Smart Bench which I just purchased plans for. Must be an oversight because it doesn’t make sense that it wouldn’t be compatible. Can you clarify. Thanks
can you use a trim router with this setup? Is there a router plate that would work with a Dewalt 600B - got the plans and built the smartshop bench and love it. Hope to add the router table to the shop
Sure. You just need a standard sized plate to mount any router. Woodpecker sells a blank that you can mount most any router. You can also make your own using 12mm plywood, the rabbet just the edge to make it the proper thickness to drop into the router table. Don't modify the table as it is industry standard.
unsure how to get ahold of anyone from the website but I purchased plans and it will not allow me to download either set of plans and counts down the downloads available. Purchased past plans and no issue - please help - no email on website to contact for help
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. I,m a big fan of your systematic approach. I've got all of your plans - which I'm working through according to time and space - but haven't made the router table yet. I've got a peice of MR MDF offcut from a recent project which is almost exactly the right size to make the router table from - surely a message from the universe? There are clear weigh advantages to using lightweight ply, but it isn't easy to get here in the UK and certainly not in appropriate quality. From what I can see on RUclips everybody in the US seems to favour ply whereas here MDF is widespread. Notably suppliers like Festool and Axmninster Tools (the supplier of the parf guide etc in the UK), and indeed Pater Parfett, the inventor of the Parf Guide, use either MDF or HDF. I was wondering if you have any experience making your workbench or accessories in MDF. I consider you an authority in thie subject area, speaking as somebody who has in the past deviated from your designs thiking I knew better, only to realise that I do not. I love your work.
Hi Stewart, I had a friend on my surf team in HS named Johnny Bell 😎🤙. As for MDF and such, I hate it!!! 🤮 It is heavy and not very durable, especially in transport. That being said, lots of the TSW Team have used it for their benches and accessories. If you are not moving it around a lot, it should be OK. Ron
Have you ever experienced a problem with the Woodpecker router plate levelling screws digging into the plywood ledge? I’m wondering if some sort of metal surface under the screw might be needed?
Hey Ron! Just completed my PSB and would love to add this to the bench as well. I have a Makita 3 1/2hp router that is quite heavy (15lbs). Would there be enough support for a router of that size? Thanks!!!
Ron, do you have any plans to design a system that uses T-tracks instead of pocket holes? I'll tell you why. I bought the plans for all your initial products and built a modified version that put the top on a roll around platform. But immediately I found the dog holes allowed dust inside the shelving spaces below and no easy way to keep that from happening. I also want to build drawers below the top surface while keeping dust down to a minimum. My solution is T-tracks on the top surface, but I'd sure like to have a set of plans to follow, as I am not real good at doing that and putting it in sketchup.
I dont see a link or suggestion for a route plate. Do you use a particular brand or do multiple plates drop in? I am looking for the most affordable as a beginner.
You’re using the Parf sticks as straight edges? Parfitt says not to do that. Holes are exactly in line but edges may not be straight or in line with holes.
@@TheSmartWoodshop OK, but it sure looked like you were using the edges in lining up your initial placement of the Parf stick before clamping it down to drill the first guide holes.
@@MichaelBrown-kk6ck The first set of holes do not have to be perfectly parallel to the edge of the work top. The squareness of the grid of holes across the work surface is established off the first row of holes not the edge of the work top. Hope this gives some clarity to any future readers of these comments.
I’ve tried to purchase the plans for router table but it doesn’t give the option to select the province. I live in Canada. There might be a glitch on your website.
Only saw this by chance as RUclips have, since August 13th, stopped the email notification service. My YT time is going to drop off a cliff - but I get more free time as a result! Great video, but doubt I'll see many more.
if you’re always making bench tops with that layout of holes, why are you still paying it out on that plywood? what’s smart about it? the smart thing to do is to clamp a new pice of plywood under one that is already drill out and go to town with the drill, instead of doing all that layout like you did here, over and over on new pieces of plywood. you’re routering t-slots and miter slots with a jig, that’s smart. but laying out all those holes over and over, it’s not smart, and your channel is called the smart workshop. the key word is smart, yes ? that’s what i see, or maybe i’m not smart, am i missing something?
Yep... you're missing something. Go ahead and try drilling a new bench top using an existing bench top with holes. The accuracy of the new bench top holes won't be anywhere near as good using the parf guide system each time. If you're relying on those holes to make dead accurate 90 degree cuts with a track saw, router etc., or use them as accurate 90 degree references for other purposes, you want each hole to be as accurate as possible. Thus the use of the parf guide system each time - that's the benefit of having it. Repeatable and accurate. It's smart.
That is a genius way to store the parf guides! I've been leaving it in the shipping box
Great video, you're videos help a lot of woodworkers.
me too. Gonna copy that idea
I'm storing mine and parf fence guide in a rifle case with foam. Nice and snug with a handle.
I like how Ron barely shows that and if you don’t have a part guide, your gonna miss his creative genius with a storage solution like a PVC pipe! Way to go Ron!
@@gjvdspam Me too. It is fine storing them in the box but this looks much more convenient.
I love this for the flexibility it provides, even if you don't need mobility.
It looks like the center of the router bit is about 9.5" from the front of the table. Ron, has this been sufficient for wider panels, or do you do those elsewhere? Has anyone put the router further back and cantilevered out a bit further - maybe just 96 mm more?
Excellent addition to the benches! Building soon!
Hi Ron. Got the PSB plans and looking to buy the PSRT plans as well. You use a lot of templates/patterns in your work (and thanks for including them in the PSB plans). Any chance of a set of template only plans that goes more into some of what you used in this video?
I don't have any template designs for the PSRT as I just made them up in the shop. Maybe in the future, I will have some time to drop back and design them in SU.
@@TheSmartWoodshop that would be very helpful!
Mr Ron, wouldn't it make sense to put 20mm dog holes in precise locations, for all your router patterns for location, stability and repeatability?
I saw that you used your router fence to make this fence. What if we don't have a router fence yet. Do you have a suggested way to make the fence without a fence? Would that be to use an edge guide?
You could make the fence parts and assemble the base and sub fence and then use it to make the split fence. Alternativly you could just clamp a straight piece of ply to your router table with an area cut out for the bit and use it to make the fence.
Ron in your store the description of the router table indicates it’s compatible with the Compact Bench but doesn’t mention the Smart Bench which I just purchased plans for. Must be an oversight because it doesn’t make sense that it wouldn’t be compatible. Can you clarify. Thanks
It does work with the PSB. The PSRT came out before the PSB which is why it wasn't mentioned but will update it. Thanks for the heads up. Ron
Thanks Ron I just bought the router table/fence and the cross-cut jig.
can you use a trim router with this setup? Is there a router plate that would work with a Dewalt 600B - got the plans and built the smartshop bench and love it. Hope to add the router table to the shop
Sure. You just need a standard sized plate to mount any router. Woodpecker sells a blank that you can mount most any router. You can also make your own using 12mm plywood, the rabbet just the edge to make it the proper thickness to drop into the router table. Don't modify the table as it is industry standard.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thank you Ron, Happy New Year! Just ordered plans
@@TheSmartWoodshop
unsure how to get ahold of anyone from the website but I purchased plans and it will not allow me to download either set of plans and counts down the downloads available. Purchased past plans and no issue - please help - no email on website to contact for help
@@robbmartin9855 hi, thesmartwoodshop.com has both a contact email and phone number😎
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. I,m a big fan of your systematic approach. I've got all of your plans - which I'm working through according to time and space - but haven't made the router table yet. I've got a peice of MR MDF offcut from a recent project which is almost exactly the right size to make the router table from - surely a message from the universe? There are clear weigh advantages to using lightweight ply, but it isn't easy to get here in the UK and certainly not in appropriate quality. From what I can see on RUclips everybody in the US seems to favour ply whereas here MDF is widespread. Notably suppliers like Festool and Axmninster Tools (the supplier of the parf guide etc in the UK), and indeed Pater Parfett, the inventor of the Parf Guide, use either MDF or HDF. I was wondering if you have any experience making your workbench or accessories in MDF. I consider you an authority in thie subject area, speaking as somebody who has in the past deviated from your designs thiking I knew better, only to realise that I do not. I love your work.
Hi Stewart,
I had a friend on my surf team in HS named Johnny Bell 😎🤙. As for MDF and such, I hate it!!! 🤮 It is heavy and not very durable, especially in transport. That being said, lots of the TSW Team have used it for their benches and accessories. If you are not moving it around a lot, it should be OK.
Ron
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks for the response Ron 👌
Beware of sag over time with MDF. Maybe the MR MDF is better.
Have you ever experienced a problem with the Woodpecker router plate levelling screws digging into the plywood ledge? I’m wondering if some sort of metal surface under the screw might be needed?
haven't had a problem so far
Thanks for the great video
Hey Ron! Just completed my PSB and would love to add this to the bench as well. I have a Makita 3 1/2hp router that is quite heavy (15lbs). Would there be enough support for a router of that size? Thanks!!!
It supports two of 3-1/5hp Milwaukees and the same time.🙃
@@TheSmartWoodshop Wow! That's good to know. It shouldn't have any issues with my 3-1/4 Makita. Thanks Ron!
The parf guide bits are designed to work with the centrotec chuck, no need to use the bit extender or a jacobs!
would like o build on into mt mft tabletop from Festool.
Ron, do you have a link to the parf guide system you are using? Thanks.
I bought the plans and for the front fence angled at 45 deg I cannot figure out what router bit was used to creat the 16mm dado with a smaller mouth?
If you are talking about the T-Track, this is the bit.amzn.to/3XOr32W
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks Ron, your designs are the best
How do you know that the fence is 90 degree square to the router?
Or since it’s in the middle of the fence, it doesn’t matter? Always 90?
It doesn't matter with a router table, but the holes are laid out square so I can use bench dogs if I need it square.
Ron, do you have any plans to design a system that uses T-tracks instead of pocket holes? I'll tell you why. I bought the plans for all your initial products and built a modified version that put the top on a roll around platform. But immediately I found the dog holes allowed dust inside the shelving spaces below and no easy way to keep that from happening. I also want to build drawers below the top surface while keeping dust down to a minimum. My solution is T-tracks on the top surface, but I'd sure like to have a set of plans to follow, as I am not real good at doing that and putting it in sketchup.
There doesn't appear to be a stand alone link for the router table. I've bought everything but the PSBBP.
stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/paulk-smart-router-table-psrt-p20.php
@@TheSmartWoodshop I got it! Thanks.
I dont see a link or suggestion for a route plate. Do you use a particular brand or do multiple plates drop in? I am looking for the most affordable as a beginner.
Never mind . Got it
You’re using the Parf sticks as straight edges? Parfitt says not to do that. Holes are exactly in line but edges may not be straight or in line with holes.
I am using the holes, not edges
@@TheSmartWoodshop OK, but it sure looked like you were using the edges in lining up your initial placement of the Parf stick before clamping it down to drill the first guide holes.
@@MichaelBrown-kk6ck The first set of holes do not have to be perfectly parallel to the edge of the work top. The squareness of the grid of holes across the work surface is established off the first row of holes not the edge of the work top. Hope this gives some clarity to any future readers of these comments.
I’ve tried to purchase the plans for router table but it doesn’t give the option to select the province. I live in Canada. There might be a glitch on your website.
RUclips no longer sends email notifications about new postings.
I still get them
@@topgunguy79 It seems some do and some don't. I haven't had any for a couple of weeks now.
Only saw this by chance as RUclips have, since August 13th, stopped the email notification service. My YT time is going to drop off a cliff - but I get more free time as a result! Great video, but doubt I'll see many more.
if you’re always making bench tops with that layout of holes, why are you still paying it out on that plywood?
what’s smart about it?
the smart thing to do is to clamp a new pice of plywood under one that is already drill out and go to town with the drill, instead of doing all that layout like you did here, over and over on new pieces of plywood. you’re routering t-slots and miter slots with a jig, that’s smart.
but laying out all those holes over and over, it’s not smart, and your channel is called the smart workshop.
the key word is smart, yes ?
that’s what i see, or maybe i’m not smart, am i missing something?
Yep... you're missing something. Go ahead and try drilling a new bench top using an existing bench top with holes. The accuracy of the new bench top holes won't be anywhere near as good using the parf guide system each time. If you're relying on those holes to make dead accurate 90 degree cuts with a track saw, router etc., or use them as accurate 90 degree references for other purposes, you want each hole to be as accurate as possible. Thus the use of the parf guide system each time - that's the benefit of having it. Repeatable and accurate. It's smart.