Why I Don't use a Cap Pack in a Speed Run RC Car - Castle 1721 2400Kv on 8s
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Cap packs are a very important component that can save your ESC. Use one when the data is telling you that you should. Or use one if you don't know otherwise and would rather error on the safe conservative side. Just keep in mind that these components are not going to boost your acceleration or top speed.
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What is Ripple Voltage and How to Avoid it:
• What is Ripple Voltage...
Why use a Cap Pack in an RC Car?
• Why use a Cap Pack on ...
Details on the Most Insane RC Motor (In this video)
• Most INSANE and FAST R...
How to Avoid the Biggest RC Motor Mistake.
• How to Avoid the Bigge...
Arrma Limitless V1
Castle 1721 2400Kv Motor
22T Pinion / 42T Spur
Castle XLX2 ESC
6s and 8s LiPo
Modified Arrangement of Motor and ESC to fit
3D printed ESC Mount.
3D printed Body Trim mount
#RCexplained
Bassically Just go full throttle all the time and no worries 😎
awesome video.... I've been struggling to find out why my ESC's are setting a fire after using them for a while...I even used a very expensive high amps high voltage ESC even recommended ones from the manufacturer of both motor and ESC combination...
Definitely going to try one of these Cappacks to help me realize some reliability...
I thought they were overheating but I definitely think it's more to do with the voltage ripple effect. Thank you for such helpful information...
My setup is a 67in 3d Pilot RC plane
Recommended motor Dualsky GA2000R recommended ESC Dualsky Summit 120A HV
6s lipo
This is my 3rd attempt to solve this issue of either smoking the ESC or power failure then after retrieving said model the motor runs again...
Cooling is really good ducting through the cowl into the ESC so should be adequate.
So your info has definitely helped me understand what it could possibly be causing all these ESC failures....
I do fly hard and soft 3d Manoeuvres
I was surprised when you said it can even occur at lower throttle!! With the PWM signal.
Which seems to tie in with what I've experienced.
Thanks for video
Thanks for the comment. I hope the video helps you rule out something in your system. Not sure this applies to you but ill throw it out there. If you've extended the leads on your esc to battery side, this could be contributing. If you are using weaker batteries this can also contribute to worse Ripple voltages.
I've never been above .4 volts on a 3s system so yay I'm happy. Thanks for the video buddy and giving me a base line to achieve. Still going to make cap packs just to keep the ESC happy and healthy cause I'm just bashing and looks don't matter to me. Thanks again!
Awesome information 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing information
Thank you for explaining this! What a great video!
Awesome video. Thank you I have a question what connectors are you using for your battery and ESC? And thank you again
Using 7mm bullets.
@@RCexplained Thank you. I have one more question. I Have a pack of Castle eight. Five bullet connectors but there are three males and three females I believe these are for the motor. Can those be used as battery connectors as well?
I don't have the option to measure the ripple voltage on my setup, but I do have a capacitor pack installed.
Now my question is:
Could I judge by the temperature of the capacitor pack, whether it is significantly stressed by high levels of ripple voltage? And in case the cap pack runs cool, could I assume that the setup and driving conditions are healthy and do not produce problematic amounts of ripple voltage?
Or can we not make such assumptions based on the cap pack's temperature?
Measuring heat definitely shows how hard the caps are working but it doesn't show all as heat takes time to build up.
Hey Ryan, Great video. Would Ripple voltage change as a system ages due to electronics and physical wear and Tear? EG, would you expect the ripple voltage to remain the same for said car after 300 runs?... or is this something that you would check every year if you are not using Caps?
Hey Thanks! I would expect as the capacitors on the ESC ages, you can expect different behavior. The same goes for capacitors that are pushed aggressively resulting in heat build up. This can result in higher Ripple Voltage with age but definitely depends on the abuse level. Hope this makes sense.
the "Field Effect Transistors" that drive a brushless system won't switch any differently after 10 years of continuous running than they did their first day. Unless they fail. At the same power draw and load, they will be identical until they fail.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and we all enjoy watching your video
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too Henry!
Just bought a v2 and this 2400kv. Built a dual motor kraton max6 took it out for a speed run it tore itself in two lol the rear hinge on blocks ripped apart
So what do you do, if your ESC doesn't have a logging feature(Like the majority of ESC's for cars)?
I thought I had this in the video?
Would this be more helpful for a street basher setup? Example: my infraction 3s, with a spektrum 120 amp esc and stock motor will cut out and over heat after just a few minutes of aggressive parking lot bashing. It's never even THAT hot, it just seems to cut out really bad and then shut off.
Cap packs help solve Ripple Voltage issues. Install a cap pack if you have high Ripple Voltage.
2400kv?? How hot does that motor get? Gear size? Great video!
Around 75C with many back to back passes. Gears in Description
Here is the run: ruclips.net/video/HmF9suTPTHI/видео.html
Does Ripple Voltage have any other unintended effects, like noise or anything? Or is a cap pack strictly for making sure those peaks don't damage the esc?
You absolutely answered it. Exactly how you asked is how it is
Despite added weight. Can it ever be detrimental to performance if the vehicles ripple isnt excessive?
I think I understand what you are asking. It's never good to have excessive Ripple. Excessive Ripple does not always suggest high performance. There is nothing good about excessive Ripple.
Why does it matter how close the cap bank is? Wire resistance? I can’t imagine it’s a timing delay for charging/discharging the cap.
Oh I see, inductance issues.
Correct
Will the castle 1721 fit the stock motor location? So you can keep both battery trays.
No it doesn't on the v1 but does on the v2
Would i need one for a stock set up?.
Kindly I have a Max6 esc and 1580 kv 4585 Rocket motor and about 30cm of wire that comes as standard with the esc and 10cm the wire of the battery that altogether makes 40cm for the positive and 40cm fir the negative with the thickness of 10 WAG.
Is there a way how I could know if I need an a extra capacitor?
Regarding batteries I use 6s 6000mAmps 100c.
Thanks Joseph
It's not that simple to determine if you need a cap pack or not. But what I can say is if your batteries are strong and healthy, and you are geared lightly, you should be OK without one.
@RCexplained thanks, I tried three different setups. The first one is with two 3s batteries in series to get 6s, with 5,000mA 35c each.
The second one was with the same type of batteries but with four batteries, two sets parallel, and both sets in series to get 6s and double the amps, although it increases the weight.
I think the c rating wasn't changed!
In the last setup, I tried it with another one 6s battery, 6000mA 100c on one side.
I kept the same gearing on all three setups, of 34T x 34T with 1580kv Rocket motor and Max6 esc.
All results are nearly the same, and the speed was always about 110m/h!
I thought that with the last setup, I was going to achieve a better speed, but in one of the runs, when while the rig was around 93m/h, it flipped and got airborne and crashed, maybe or because, much of the weight was one one side, or it could had found something on the ground that lifted it up from one side.
Luckily, only some items were damaged.
I'm having a problem, perhaps you have the knowledge to help. I'm running a 6s esc, using 4s for speed runs. When I reach 85mph I'm losing power and just nosediving. The esc goes into a low power setting until I unplug the battery and plug it back in. Then I'm good to go for a repeat of the exact same thing. I can't figure it out anf I was thinking cap pack. But listening to this video I'm not sure that's the problem.
Without running your setup myself, from your description it sounds like you could be hitting a thermal or current limiter within the esc. I'd expect if the esc continues to behave this way, it's not happy with your setup. Try gearing down and see what happens. If you are running a 30T pinion move to a 26T for example.
@@RCexplained thanks, do you think a bigger esc would do the trick if what you say is the problem?
Yes, but I would first confirm this by gearing down and seeing if it runs ok.
@@RCexplained I didn't see your reply in time, I swapped to a 8s esc I had laying loose and no more power drop. At least until it gets hot, which is expected.
promosm