Edit: one thing I actually just noticed is that the “after” picture in the video is incorrect. The rotor can be adjusted +/- 20 degrees either way (+/- 40 crankshaft degrees) you only want to turn the rotor to the second long mark (not the 4th one like I showed)
Hey! Thanks for commenting. I chose the base timing based on my camshaft. I believe you only need to rev it if you have a distributor with mechanical advance but it can’t hurt.
@@pushrodgarage8716 thank you for replying. Correct, the base timing is based on your camshaft. I was interested in #3. The lock timing set. I haven't found any mention of that. Fitech says to rev the motor to 2k rpms to compensate for fitechs idle correction when syncing the unit and distributor. So I wasn't sure if the lock timing set would cancel that out. Thanks again
Interesting! I hadn’t heard that. Thanks for sharing. I actually set my timing while I was breaking in my cam so I had a buddy rev it between 2000-2,500 rpm while I was doing it. I’ll have to remember that for next time.
@@gravesdu sounds like you may be usibg an older software version that doesnt have the lock/ilunlock facility and you have to rev to 2k to get a steady timing light. Id check to see what version you are running because one old version is known for glitches that are hard to tune around.
Thanks for commenting. If I understand this correctly, “ready to run” distributors are basically small cap HEI distributors. I don’t think you can use a Fitech to control timing on one of those. I am running an MSD 85551 distributor that only has a 2 wire input. I believe this is the kind of distributor that will work with Fitech timing control. You can use the one you have if you only use the Fitech for fueling though.
@@pushrodgarage8716 I have a 92 Chevy 1500 with stock 98 vortec 350. I haven't had a heck of a time trying to get the timing and air fuel ratio set right being since I don't know much about tuning.
What kind of symptoms are you experiencing? For air/fuel ratio I am running 14.0-14.7 for the non-WOT options (I can’t remember the exact KPA). For the WOT option I set mine in the 13-13.9 range to keep it a little more rich to prevent detonation. It might be a good idea for you to look up specific timing figures that have worked for other people with Vortec heads. I know they are much more efficient than the 441 casting heads I’m running. I have my idle timing set to roughly 22 degrees. Base timing set at 10 degrees and full timing of 36 degrees at 3000 and 6000 rpm. I believe the fitech blends the timing together between those RPM ranges.
Edit: one thing I actually just noticed is that the “after” picture in the video is incorrect. The rotor can be adjusted +/- 20 degrees either way (+/- 40 crankshaft degrees) you only want to turn the rotor to the second long mark (not the 4th one like I showed)
I was wondering why you locked the fitech at 10 deg lock set timing. Was this so you didn't have to rev the motor to 2k rpm for initial timing.
Hey! Thanks for commenting. I chose the base timing based on my camshaft. I believe you only need to rev it if you have a distributor with mechanical advance but it can’t hurt.
@@pushrodgarage8716 thank you for replying. Correct, the base timing is based on your camshaft. I was interested in #3. The lock timing set. I haven't found any mention of that. Fitech says to rev the motor to 2k rpms to compensate for fitechs idle correction when syncing the unit and distributor. So I wasn't sure if the lock timing set would cancel that out. Thanks again
Interesting! I hadn’t heard that. Thanks for sharing. I actually set my timing while I was breaking in my cam so I had a buddy rev it between 2000-2,500 rpm while I was doing it. I’ll have to remember that for next time.
@@gravesdu sounds like you may be usibg an older software version that doesnt have the lock/ilunlock facility and you have to rev to 2k to get a steady timing light.
Id check to see what version you are running because one old version is known for glitches that are hard to tune around.
I wish you would cover how to hook the Fitech up to the distributor. I’m using a msd6 box and a MSD Pro-Billet Ready-To-Run Distributors 8360.
Thanks for commenting. If I understand this correctly, “ready to run” distributors are basically small cap HEI distributors. I don’t think you can use a Fitech to control timing on one of those. I am running an MSD 85551 distributor that only has a 2 wire input. I believe this is the kind of distributor that will work with Fitech timing control. You can use the one you have if you only use the Fitech for fueling though.
Thanks for the video it was helpful. Is that a Vortec 350?
I’m glad to hear you found it helpful! It is a 2 piece rms old school small block. What year vehicle did your engine come out of?
@@pushrodgarage8716 I have a 92 Chevy 1500 with stock 98 vortec 350. I haven't had a heck of a time trying to get the timing and air fuel ratio set right being since I don't know much about tuning.
What kind of symptoms are you experiencing?
For air/fuel ratio I am running 14.0-14.7 for the non-WOT options (I can’t remember the exact KPA). For the WOT option I set mine in the 13-13.9 range to keep it a little more rich to prevent detonation.
It might be a good idea for you to look up specific timing figures that have worked for other people with Vortec heads. I know they are much more efficient than the 441 casting heads I’m running. I have my idle timing set to roughly 22 degrees. Base timing set at 10 degrees and full timing of 36 degrees at 3000 and 6000 rpm. I believe the fitech blends the timing together between those RPM ranges.
@@pushrodgarage8716 can I message u on Facebook or something
Sure. Could you message me on Instagram? I’m PushrodGarage on there as well.
If you want to explain to many people on internet you shouldn't speak too fast. Thanks. A RUclipsr 😉
Thanks for the feedback!
Why so damn fast ? So hard to understand you