Very helpful! I HIGHLY recommend the recent This Old Tony video "Over Center Mechanisms But Were Afraid To Ask!" to anyone who enjoyed this video. Lots of great insight into over center and compliant mechanisms.
I've been spending the last couple weeks trying to better understand compliant mechanisms and design my own. How you manage to keep putting out videos that are exactly what I'm working on, just in time to be super helpful, is amazing! Thank you so much!
Just want to say, I love how you go through the effort of printing things just to prove a point. That seam being right on the flex point is not something most people would've noticed and even might be missed entirely when they wrongfully assume it's just the filament that's the issue, so great shout and the physical example is great attention to detail.
Excellent video! We'll have to print off some of these other patterns ourselves! The flasher hexagon, if you want to know, is a (very chunky) example of the kind of deployable origami arrays that we're working on for space applications. It doesn't compact down nearly as much as the stuff we'll actually be putting up in space, but it does make a great fidget toy 😉
I am a mechanical engineering student at BYU right now and this video brought me a lot of joy! It’s so cool to see the effect that my program has on this hobby. Thanks for the awesome video!
Another great example is the "plugs" for the Honeycomb Storage Wall. Each corner of the hexagon has a channel cut out of it to allow the plug to flex while it's being inserted. It then snaps back to its original position once it's in, allowing the plug to "lock" onto the wall.
I'm building a Milo V1.5 Mini Mill. I was going to make an accordion bellow to cover the linear rails on the Y-Axis. I was going to do it the old fashion way by using some kinda fabric or plastic sheet. Luckily you posted this video and inspired me to print one out. I found someone on Thangs that has tons of sizes. Now I just need to model a little mount on the Y-Axis bearing block. I can share it with everyone in the Millennium machines Discord. Then they can use it in their builds, or retrofit their already built mills.👍👍👍👍👍 5 thumbs up!
It is always a good day when you drop a new video and your teaching style is so good that the lessons I learn stick with me in my everyday life. I hope one day to have as great of an impact on others as you do. Please keep on doing what you are doing, you have one of the best, honest channel out there.
Dear Michael, I am very much looking forward to your video on improving the SOVOL SV08 printer. Please post it as soon as possible. Thank you very much.
I've been having some fun mixing PLA with flexible PLA. Unlike with TPU, the layers stick together and it creates some interesting options. I don't have a multi-material printer, so I've only be doing a few layer changes per print (I just treat the flexible PLA as a different color and use a modifier to slow the print speed) but even with that limitation, you can do some cool stuff. I recommend more folks try it out because it doesn't seem very popular and I don't know why.
Polypropylene is an underrated filament. It isn’t that hard to get it to print and the results are very good mechanically. All we need to make it mainstream is a manufacturer to make an even easier version or blend to use. Bambu is ideally placed to do this, if they can get settings that work well on their printers then it should make PP more mainstream.
And fun colors, I would say it's easier than tpu even but maybe since the usual build surfaces don't work is relegated to the troublesome corner. Every time someone tells me it's too hard, I just print them something in it. 😅
Concentric arcs at 15:55 are very stiff because their length cannot change and they prevent each other from bending. Drop the middle one and fold inner one close to outer arc, or add waves :)
@@tanujak98 Always weird to see when a school populated by such religious nuts actually consistently makes valuable contributions to many different fields.
Mate, long time viewer! Also tech teacher, also f1 fan, also a wanderers supporter from western sydney myself! Think I saw you at an REA event a few years ago can't remember.... anyway I found this interesting as it's relevant to something I've been thinking about which you might find interesting too .. REA this year are running F1 in Schools 3D Printed class (did you know?). It's basically cadet class but with milling restrictions (left/right side cut) removed. The only restrictions really are virtual cargo, and that side pods/wings must exist. I am entering two teams of exceptional Y8 students. I have been thinking a lot about pushing boundaries and car designs to think outside the box. Similar to DRS or flexible front wings on real F1 cars, I've been trying to think of a way to include compliant mechanisms in a 3d printed f1 in schools car. Perhaps where a wing or a sidepod might flex or bend, so that it complies under scrutineering but provides an additional benefit as it moves or flexes while under load. If you have any ideas or thoughts I'd love to touch base and chat about it...? Ev
Great video, as always. Could you do a video about detents? You are so good at explaining mechanisms, and in my experience there are only scarce resources on detents, especially for 3D printed objects. One use case I have is a (mostly?) fully 3D printed 3-position rotary switch. Is there a way to have it snap into each position reliably with only printed plastic, or would something like a ball plunger be better? What should the groove profile look like? The back of my mind screams "over-center"!
I once got a roll of PP for 25 euro as a sale item. Even with my horrible M3D micro printer it worked. Its horrible with moisture but so easy to print. I have no clue why it isnt more popular. Its durable, strong and bendy. It does coat the nozzle preventing any other filament though. IF you can find it, Highly recommend PP as an easier nylon. Would love to hear if more of you know about it.
@@TeachingTech What I found interesting is how quickly it firms up with thinker walls. I want to try it, but dont want to risk sliming up my nozzle and heatblock..
15:53 would duplicating the geometry in that way even work? It works in the nerf gun because they're all working in parallel to move in a straight path, but if you have multiple curved parts like that wouldn't they have different ranges of motion and therefore work against each other?
Great videos XD, but I still nhave Mixed feelings about compliant mechanisms, pretty much my whole life I would discover they existed when they were used as a cost saving measure that caused something I enjoyed Failing DRASTICALLY sooner than it would with a traditional multiple piece mechanism
These mechanisms are cool cut the fatigue failure issue surely precludes them from serious use? Lots of these materials give very little indication of when theyre close to failure, and you cant replace components, as it's all one piece. How is BYU adressing these problems?
12:45 problem with this is that slicer overlaps walls, so linear math doesn't really work. you can use the precise walls option in orca to overcome it though.
9:32 - You were correct earlier, that discoloration is known as "whitening" in the materials world. It is a sign of fatigue in the material. Bonds are being broken in the polymer.
I haven't done one myself, but I would suggest 90A TPU, or maaaybe PETG. If you search the model repositories for phone case designs and find a high quality design, they'll probably have filament suggestions from experience. Good luck!
These thin sections of the mechanisms are not suited for 3d prints. They are designed for titanium and such since there great e-module and low creep. I recently looked in to it. And replaced the thin sections with s-curves to spread the load and deformation, while keeping low actuation force and movement.
Have you tested Simplify 3D on a Klipper machine? I will pay for the S3D software if it simplifies my process. I am sorry. I am 65 years old. Using the latest OrcaSlicer on my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro is a nightmare for me! I must make different machine profiles and create new filament profiles each time I get a new filament. I hate the process. It might be good and cool for younger people, but I am an S3D guy and this new stuff is just too much. S3D I could change everyting all in one go for each print. It was based on the MODEL settings, not the filament I was using. Too much work in OrcaSlicer as far as I know. I am about to buy it and make a video about it, but I think you are gifted and could give the new S3D a proper review. Will you please do that?
To clarify, In S3d, I told S3D the printer I was using. I'm not like you RUclipsrs. I only have one 3D printer I use for everything. So I don't need to change printer settings for different printers. I do, however, use different filaments. In OrcaSlicer, I have to make a new Filament profile each time I use a different filament. I HATE THAT! Let me just put the file on the bed, change all the settings and send the file to the printer. I hate all this new Klipper and OrcaSlicer and it's derivatives or parents settings.
Very helpful! I HIGHLY recommend the recent This Old Tony video "Over Center Mechanisms But Were Afraid To Ask!" to anyone who enjoyed this video. Lots of great insight into over center and compliant mechanisms.
I've been spending the last couple weeks trying to better understand compliant mechanisms and design my own. How you manage to keep putting out videos that are exactly what I'm working on, just in time to be super helpful, is amazing!
Thank you so much!
Search for cameras and spyware on your PC. ;)
Just want to say, I love how you go through the effort of printing things just to prove a point. That seam being right on the flex point is not something most people would've noticed and even might be missed entirely when they wrongfully assume it's just the filament that's the issue, so great shout and the physical example is great attention to detail.
Excellent video! We'll have to print off some of these other patterns ourselves!
The flasher hexagon, if you want to know, is a (very chunky) example of the kind of deployable origami arrays that we're working on for space applications. It doesn't compact down nearly as much as the stuff we'll actually be putting up in space, but it does make a great fidget toy 😉
I am a mechanical engineering student at BYU right now and this video brought me a lot of joy! It’s so cool to see the effect that my program has on this hobby. Thanks for the awesome video!
Another great example is the "plugs" for the Honeycomb Storage Wall. Each corner of the hexagon has a channel cut out of it to allow the plug to flex while it's being inserted. It then snaps back to its original position once it's in, allowing the plug to "lock" onto the wall.
This is awesome! I work as an engineering grad student in the BYU Compliant Mechanisms and Robotics lab. We loved seeing this video!
I'm building a Milo V1.5 Mini Mill. I was going to make an accordion bellow to cover the linear rails on the Y-Axis. I was going to do it the old fashion way by using some kinda fabric or plastic sheet. Luckily you posted this video and inspired me to print one out. I found someone on Thangs that has tons of sizes. Now I just need to model a little mount on the Y-Axis bearing block. I can share it with everyone in the Millennium machines Discord. Then they can use it in their builds, or retrofit their already built mills.👍👍👍👍👍 5 thumbs up!
It is always a good day when you drop a new video and your teaching style is so good that the lessons I learn stick with me in my everyday life. I hope one day to have as great of an impact on others as you do. Please keep on doing what you are doing, you have one of the best, honest channel out there.
When suggest using the same design with different materials without changing dimensions, Papa's heart slowly sinks in
Excellent video!! Thanks for the thoroughness of the lessons and clarity of teaching.
Bro just trying to optimize torture devices lol
Another good filament that is soft yet rigid, and doesn't need an enclosure is SBS.
neat, thanks for putting all the links in the description!
Dear Michael, I am very much looking forward to your video on improving the SOVOL SV08 printer. Please post it as soon as possible. Thank you very much.
Agreed^^
Take your time. My preorder has still yet to be delivered....
Great video ! I've been printing compliant mechanisms for the last few years as part of robot grippers and I enjoyed the tips in this video 🤓
I've been having some fun mixing PLA with flexible PLA. Unlike with TPU, the layers stick together and it creates some interesting options. I don't have a multi-material printer, so I've only be doing a few layer changes per print (I just treat the flexible PLA as a different color and use a modifier to slow the print speed) but even with that limitation, you can do some cool stuff. I recommend more folks try it out because it doesn't seem very popular and I don't know why.
Another outstanding presentation with excellent detail and examples. Well done and thank you for sharing it with us.
Polypropylene is an underrated filament. It isn’t that hard to get it to print and the results are very good mechanically. All we need to make it mainstream is a manufacturer to make an even easier version or blend to use. Bambu is ideally placed to do this, if they can get settings that work well on their printers then it should make PP more mainstream.
And fun colors, I would say it's easier than tpu even but maybe since the usual build surfaces don't work is relegated to the troublesome corner. Every time someone tells me it's too hard, I just print them something in it. 😅
woah finally a good video on this. YOURE THE MAN
Super interesting topic and thanks for those guiding parameters and tips!
Great into to the subject
Thanks for sharing your experiences till now :-)
very helpful instructions on improving compliant mechanism design. Thank you.
"Rear" seams in Prusaslicer orient at +Y and that's often good enough to fix seams without painting for a functional part
Concentric arcs at 15:55 are very stiff because their length cannot change and they prevent each other from bending. Drop the middle one and fold inner one close to outer arc, or add waves :)
Came for this. Was not disappointed.
BYU leading the research on compliant mechanisms is hilarious when you know about the many ways Mormon students bend the rules there 😂
BYU's rules are itself a compliant mechanism...
soaking anyone?
Wait those guys are pioneering the research into compliant mechanisms?? I somehow never put two and two together and realized it’s that BYU 😂
@@tanujak98 Always weird to see when a school populated by such religious nuts actually consistently makes valuable contributions to many different fields.
@@tanujak98 the only way it could be better is if they were also leading the research in hand held portable irrigation technology aka super soakers
I wish I had you as a professor in my highschool 🙌 excellent video!
thank you soooooo much for being so extremely thorough with this!!
Fascinating. Thank you for this.
Your videos are always amazing, I click that like when the video starts as I know it will be good. Thank you and keep it up!
Excellent instructional video!
Mate, long time viewer! Also tech teacher, also f1 fan, also a wanderers supporter from western sydney myself! Think I saw you at an REA event a few years ago can't remember.... anyway I found this interesting as it's relevant to something I've been thinking about which you might find interesting too .. REA this year are running F1 in Schools 3D Printed class (did you know?). It's basically cadet class but with milling restrictions (left/right side cut) removed. The only restrictions really are virtual cargo, and that side pods/wings must exist. I am entering two teams of exceptional Y8 students. I have been thinking a lot about pushing boundaries and car designs to think outside the box. Similar to DRS or flexible front wings on real F1 cars, I've been trying to think of a way to include compliant mechanisms in a 3d printed f1 in schools car. Perhaps where a wing or a sidepod might flex or bend, so that it complies under scrutineering but provides an additional benefit as it moves or flexes while under load. If you have any ideas or thoughts I'd love to touch base and chat about it...? Ev
Great video. Thanks!
Great video, as always. Could you do a video about detents? You are so good at explaining mechanisms, and in my experience there are only scarce resources on detents, especially for 3D printed objects.
One use case I have is a (mostly?) fully 3D printed 3-position rotary switch. Is there a way to have it snap into each position reliably with only printed plastic, or would something like a ball plunger be better? What should the groove profile look like? The back of my mind screams "over-center"!
I once got a roll of PP for 25 euro as a sale item. Even with my horrible M3D micro printer it worked. Its horrible with moisture but so easy to print. I have no clue why it isnt more popular. Its durable, strong and bendy. It does coat the nozzle preventing any other filament though. IF you can find it, Highly recommend PP as an easier nylon. Would love to hear if more of you know about it.
I have printed with it once and still have the very old roll. It was very soft, almost like a tpu.
@@TeachingTech What I found interesting is how quickly it firms up with thinker walls. I want to try it, but dont want to risk sliming up my nozzle and heatblock..
Thank you,
Any updates on the non-planar slicer?
Great tips in this video!
This makes me wish I paid more attention in the compliant mechanisms portion of machine design class😂
PETG showing, once again, how versatile it is
Thanks. More than I imaged.
The PETG you're using looks awesome, which brand and colour is it?
X3d pro petg - gold
Interesting, but I was hoping to see Part 2 of the SV-8 tool changer project :-).
verry interessting video
that´s it, I´m hooked in. Compliant me.
Thanks
1:50 the bad guy from Monsters Inc
Great video !
15:53 would duplicating the geometry in that way even work? It works in the nerf gun because they're all working in parallel to move in a straight path, but if you have multiple curved parts like that wouldn't they have different ranges of motion and therefore work against each other?
Teaching Tech slowly turning into I Did a Thing
SBC could be a good alternative for the living hinge. Same settings for printing as PETG but can handle the stress better. (used in blisters)
Great videos XD, but I still nhave Mixed feelings about compliant mechanisms, pretty much my whole life I would discover they existed when they were used as a cost saving measure that caused something I enjoyed Failing DRASTICALLY sooner than it would with a traditional multiple piece mechanism
These mechanisms are cool cut the fatigue failure issue surely precludes them from serious use? Lots of these materials give very little indication of when theyre close to failure, and you cant replace components, as it's all one piece. How is BYU adressing these problems?
Would 'glass filled nylon' have less probs with deformation during printing?
12:45 problem with this is that slicer overlaps walls, so linear math doesn't really work. you can use the precise walls option in orca to overcome it though.
What's your build plate in the bambulab?
9:32 - You were correct earlier, that discoloration is known as "whitening" in the materials world. It is a sign of fatigue in the material. Bonds are being broken in the polymer.
There are really nice courses on complaint mechanism design in "The FACTs of Mechanical Design" channel. It's quite nice.
Awesome
Which slicer do you use?
OrcaSlicer. I have a getting started video if it helps.
Hmm, a progressive compliant mechanism to improve the feel of the brake pedal on my SIM rig 🤔
How is the Sovol tool changer project going?
I'm relatively new to 3d printing, one question. What type of filament would you suggest to print a phone case?
I haven't done one myself, but I would suggest 90A TPU, or maaaybe PETG. If you search the model repositories for phone case designs and find a high quality design, they'll probably have filament suggestions from experience. Good luck!
What type of TPU did you use? Would 95A be better?
Great video, with lots of good information, except that your multiplied hinge at 15:55 won't work.
thanks but we want the second part of the SV08 tool changer! 😉
Support you wery much!!!
did u see the ToT vide on the lids
This Old Tony mentioned!
Any sources on how I can design a bistable switch?
Would all springs be considered effective compliant?
I did that to make à flexible tool to form à road on a diorama. Pla did thé job fine
It's strange that you don't mention the use of this type of mechanism in optics (and corresponding open source projects)
Really interesting, why don't you print it in PP ?
This plastic is not that difficult to print
Ace!
nice shirt!
12:34 Just how wide this WHAT should be?? Oh... Bit... Carry on.
These thin sections of the mechanisms are not suited for 3d prints. They are designed for titanium and such since there great e-module and low creep. I recently looked in to it. And replaced the thin sections with s-curves to spread the load and deformation, while keeping low actuation force and movement.
Have you tested Simplify 3D on a Klipper machine? I will pay for the S3D software if it simplifies my process. I am sorry. I am 65 years old. Using the latest OrcaSlicer on my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro is a nightmare for me! I must make different machine profiles and create new filament profiles each time I get a new filament. I hate the process. It might be good and cool for younger people, but I am an S3D guy and this new stuff is just too much. S3D I could change everyting all in one go for each print. It was based on the MODEL settings, not the filament I was using. Too much work in OrcaSlicer as far as I know. I am about to buy it and make a video about it, but I think you are gifted and could give the new S3D a proper review. Will you please do that?
To clarify, In S3d, I told S3D the printer I was using. I'm not like you RUclipsrs. I only have one 3D printer I use for everything. So I don't need to change printer settings for different printers. I do, however, use different filaments. In OrcaSlicer, I have to make a new Filament profile each time I use a different filament. I HATE THAT! Let me just put the file on the bed, change all the settings and send the file to the printer. I hate all this new Klipper and OrcaSlicer and it's derivatives or parents settings.
1:50 haha wtf
I sugggest buying a good directional microphone and prob some sound dampening on your room :)
first ;)
Thanks