Thank you sir. I had already diagnosed my issue to the water pump not lifting water and was about to hit submit on a service call when I found your video which showed me where the water pump was and how to get to it easily. With that I found the snot ball keeping it from lifting, cleaned everything out and back in business. Probably saved me a few hundred bucks for a call. Not all heroes wear capes, unless you are and we just didn't see it.
Hi Chris I’m leaving comments as well to try to get some assistance I left another comment on this video I’m having the same issue but my problem is the blower wheel is constantly caking-up with debris have you had any similar issues where the unit seems to sound like it is unbalanced and vibrates due to the wheel being dirty? They cleaned the wheel twice already and it keeps occurring in less than a years time as you know these units don’t turn off the motor constantly runs if there isn’t any thermostat attached to it (there is a dip switch on the board that could be flipped to hook up an external thermostat that will turn the unit on and off like a normal air conditioning unit but it requires a external thermostat I was told) . Just reaching out to others to try to find out what’s going on they are replacing my unit but I’m afraid it’s just going to happen again my air filter never ever seems to be dirty like the standard Fujitsu mini split that is in my office for over three years now without any issue. Thanks.
@@retrogameboyz Unfortunately I don't have that problem. The filters on both of my units get pretty dirty. We try to clean them about once a month. I can't make sense as to why that's happening to you. It's super strange.
Nice to see some videos on maintaining this cassette - had ours installed 4 years ago and haven't figured out how to do maintenance other than clean filters. We sometimes have a musty smell and hot humid air around ours, even when its off. Filters and coil are clean, drain pan looks ok on a borescope camera. I'm thinking there's air leaking in from the bay it's hung inside.
@@hvacwithdrewman98 Thanks for the reply! Blower wheel looks ok from the camera I stuck up in the vent. Is it possible to improve the sealing without pulling the unit down or removing the coil? I don't have an attic above it - just some insulation and then the roof. What are some areas that can sealed?
@@user-xc7jm2xd9d try checking the area the copper line set goes through the wall to the outside and make sure the is sealed up... If not it can cause in issue... Other than that it may be time to clean the evap coil....
@@hvacwithdrewman98 thank you for the great video. Is it possible to pull off blower wheel without taking unit down? I have a meldew odor on brend new units. Can't identify the issue, pan looks clean so far. Does air leak can chime in into the odor?
@@peterchaploutskiy2555 I haven't had to remove the wheel on this style unit, but it does look like the coil has to be dropped... I would check and make sure where the line set goes thru the wall to the indoor and outdoor are sealed at the wall... Maybe try spraying a disinfectant on the coil..
I have one of these in an 888 sq ft area (8 foot ceilings). I signed a contract for a 15k btu unit and realized it was a 12k btu unit when I went to take the cover off and clean the filters. I was told by the local installer that 12k btu is sufficient for the area, but on hot days (or if I'm cooking) the unit, running 24/7 NEVER hits temperature and NEVER comes close (i.e. ran it overnight last night. it's 74 degrees outside at 7:30 AM in NY...unit is set to 61 and my thermostat in my house reads 67 STILL) I argued that they installed the wrong size unit and need to install the next size up but the company doesn't want to fix the issue. In your professional opinion, is a 12k btu cassette unit sufficient for the space? Thank you for the video and please let me know what you think. I'm definitely subscribing to your channel.
Hi Brent - I have the same one 12K room is less than 500 sqft 10 1/2 ft ceilings - and I am having issues cooling because of build up on the blower wheel and the drain pan / line is clogging. I think a 12k is too small for 888 sqft - max I believe by spec is 600 sqft - if you have the paperwork - that proves you got a 15K and a 12 was installed - you are within your rights - I would fight this - but it will take time. I am currently working with Mitsubishi and my contractor to get my unit replaced.
I heard there are strings that are in the unit that you can hang the evaporator coil from when servicing the blower wheel. I didn't see any so I left some extra lineset in the attic so I would have enough to drop the evaporator a couple feet to service the blower wheel. I also installed an RGF hydrogen peroxide generator in the return air space so hopefully that keeps the mold down. Have you serviced a blower wheel yet on one if these units? If so, how did you do it? Thanks!
Best video on the dirty sock syndrome. Btw has anyone installed a uv led system? I see FreshAire sells one that good for wall units and ceiling cassettes. Pricey solution, if it really does work.
Hey there I see that you might’ve seen my previous comment and your video has helped me - thank you - if you have a moment if you would be so kind to answer this question. I have the same unit and it is going to be replaced under warranty continuous problem with the blower wheel building up with debris caked on noticed that the air filter does not seem to catch much dust. Every time I go to inspect it to clean it there’s hardly anything on it but yet the blower wheel is getting dirty very quickly. no one can truly answer if this is normal operation I have suspected that air is being sucked in into other places bypassing the filter but no one has been able to confirm so they’re just replacing it with fear that this might occur again with a new one is this anything that you have experienced is removing the blower wheel part of a normal maintenance I know to do this on a regular mini split and I have seen it where it’s just lightly coated but due to heat and moisture it seems to build up on mine very rapidly suspecting something is not right any assistance is appreciated thank you
The filters really are more for catching dust… I typically see the wheel needing to be pulled and cleaned about once a year, have some that go a couple yrs with out needing it… my suggestion for your issue is to make sure that opening where the line set goes thru the wall is completely sealed. If not it pulls air thru there and causes the wheel to get dirt sooner… I don’t think changing the unit will make a difference…
Hello, sir -- do you have experience cleaning the blower wheels in these units? As a homeowner, I can't see a way to do so myself and service technicians we've had out don't seem to know how to do it.
I've had the same unit and question for 4 years. Finally I bought a borescope camera just to stick in the vent and look behind the coil - blower wheel is quite clean to my surprise. We have other wall units whose blowers need regular cleaning.
@@user-xc7jm2xd9d Thank you! Interestingly (unfortunately), the installer left these units uncovered without the filter casing (and running!) during drywall work and wood floor sanding and every component is pretty well caked in fine powder of various putrescible kinds. Just a story from the front, I suppose.
When I'm checking the charge I'm looking for the super heat to be a single digit.... It's just a quick way, not everyone will agree but pulling and recharging is not necessary if I didn't open the line set
why are you checking the charge? "throw your gauges on it" first of all you can't check a charge on a minisplit by pressure "throwing gauges on it" secondly why would you even be looking to do that on a water leak call where you clearly found the issue? other then that good video thanks for the info on the drainpan pump very informative
So I don't know who told you that you can't check the charge on a mini split... They are wrong... 2nd of all Im using probes... 3rd you check everything.....
@@hvacwithdrewman98 Good repair men check everything while they are there to reduce repeat visits that aren't nessessary. Good on you for not trying to rip people off.
Can you please explain on how to check the charge other than recovering refrigerant and weight it back in to ID label specs this would save me lots of time and hassle and would love to learn a faster way
@@jasonmontroy9182 the way I do it , single zone.. ( 1) head... Run cooling and be sure the compressor ramps up it is the inverter system.. most only have the one port so hook up suction, and temp clamp to get the superheat. Was taught the superheat should be in the single digits.... Multiple zone system you can check the line temp of each one to see how its working... Quick check.... Pulling and weighing in the correct charge is the correct way...
You can.. but for it to work you need to get to the access of the outlet of the drain pan to place them for it to work.. best way is to just drop the pan once a year and do a good cleaning
The space between the coil and pan is extremely tight. You can try the strips made for minisplits, they will barely squeeze in there but you need to cut them down to the width of a french fry. I don't know how well they work other than I have had a unit for 4 years and no clogs yet. I stuck a borescope camera in the slot and can see some pieces of the partially dissolved strips in there - I just hope they don't clog the pump. Oh well, thanks to this video it seems like not too hard to fix if it does.
Hi, did you notice when you removed the drain pan if there was room to install some kind of insulation around the pump to isolate the constant noise it makes?
Thanks for the video. Got home from vacation and mine wasn't working. Found this and had it fixed in 10 min
Thank you sir. I had already diagnosed my issue to the water pump not lifting water and was about to hit submit on a service call when I found your video which showed me where the water pump was and how to get to it easily. With that I found the snot ball keeping it from lifting, cleaned everything out and back in business. Probably saved me a few hundred bucks for a call.
Not all heroes wear capes, unless you are and we just didn't see it.
First time I see one of these units being taken apart to clean drain pan. Learn something new thank you.
You, sir, are a saint. I dropped my drain pan and it was disgusting. My unit is colder now and no longer smells like mildew.
Hi Chris I’m leaving comments as well to try to get some assistance I left another comment on this video I’m having the same issue but my problem is the blower wheel is constantly caking-up with debris have you had any similar issues where the unit seems to sound like it is unbalanced and vibrates due to the wheel being dirty? They cleaned the wheel twice already and it keeps occurring in less than a years time as you know these units don’t turn off the motor constantly runs if there isn’t any thermostat attached to it (there is a dip switch on the board that could be flipped to hook up an external thermostat that will turn the unit on and off like a normal air conditioning unit but it requires a external thermostat I was told) . Just reaching out to others to try to find out what’s going on they are replacing my unit but I’m afraid it’s just going to happen again my air filter never ever seems to be dirty like the standard Fujitsu mini split that is in my office for over three years now without any issue. Thanks.
@@retrogameboyz Unfortunately I don't have that problem. The filters on both of my units get pretty dirty. We try to clean them about once a month. I can't make sense as to why that's happening to you. It's super strange.
Nice to see some videos on maintaining this cassette - had ours installed 4 years ago and haven't figured out how to do maintenance other than clean filters. We sometimes have a musty smell and hot humid air around ours, even when its off. Filters and coil are clean, drain pan looks ok on a borescope camera. I'm thinking there's air leaking in from the bay it's hung inside.
I don't get many complaints about odor.. but make sure everything is sealed up around the unit... Blower wheel might be dirty and need a cleaning
@@hvacwithdrewman98 Thanks for the reply! Blower wheel looks ok from the camera I stuck up in the vent. Is it possible to improve the sealing without pulling the unit down or removing the coil? I don't have an attic above it - just some insulation and then the roof. What are some areas that can sealed?
@@user-xc7jm2xd9d try checking the area the copper line set goes through the wall to the outside and make sure the is sealed up... If not it can cause in issue... Other than that it may be time to clean the evap coil....
@@hvacwithdrewman98 thank you for the great video. Is it possible to pull off blower wheel without taking unit down? I have a meldew odor on brend new units. Can't identify the issue, pan looks clean so far. Does air leak can chime in into the odor?
@@peterchaploutskiy2555 I haven't had to remove the wheel on this style unit, but it does look like the coil has to be dropped... I would check and make sure where the line set goes thru the wall to the indoor and outdoor are sealed at the wall... Maybe try spraying a disinfectant on the coil..
This is exactly what I needed to see - thank you. Beautiful room btw.
Great vid! Thank you for sharing this!
Great job 👍
I have one of these in an 888 sq ft area (8 foot ceilings). I signed a contract for a 15k btu unit and realized it was a 12k btu unit when I went to take the cover off and clean the filters. I was told by the local installer that 12k btu is sufficient for the area, but on hot days (or if I'm cooking) the unit, running 24/7 NEVER hits temperature and NEVER comes close (i.e. ran it overnight last night. it's 74 degrees outside at 7:30 AM in NY...unit is set to 61 and my thermostat in my house reads 67 STILL) I argued that they installed the wrong size unit and need to install the next size up but the company doesn't want to fix the issue. In your professional opinion, is a 12k btu cassette unit sufficient for the space? Thank you for the video and please let me know what you think. I'm definitely subscribing to your channel.
Hi Brent - I have the same one 12K room is less than 500 sqft 10 1/2 ft ceilings - and I am having issues cooling because of build up on the blower wheel and the drain pan / line is clogging. I think a 12k is too small for 888 sqft - max I believe by spec is 600 sqft - if you have the paperwork - that proves you got a 15K and a 12 was installed - you are within your rights - I would fight this - but it will take time. I am currently working with Mitsubishi and my contractor to get my unit replaced.
I somehow missed your question..... I would have to say it is to small.... I don't do the sizing for equipment...
chlorine tablets placed in the drain pan on annual service would have prevented this problem
Good video
I heard there are strings that are in the unit that you can hang the evaporator coil from when servicing the blower wheel. I didn't see any so I left some extra lineset in the attic so I would have enough to drop the evaporator a couple feet to service the blower wheel. I also installed an RGF hydrogen peroxide generator in the return air space so hopefully that keeps the mold down. Have you serviced a blower wheel yet on one if these units? If so, how did you do it? Thanks!
I haven't had to replace the motor yet... But it does look like the coil would need to be removed.... May just be a future video....
Nice never worked on one of those yet
That was my first.. that's why I decided to record it... Easier than Carrier cassette
Best video on the dirty sock syndrome. Btw has anyone installed a uv led system? I see FreshAire sells one that good for wall units and ceiling cassettes. Pricey solution, if it really does work.
Thanks…. I only installed one UV light on a high wall unit a customer supplied, not like one for a regular air handler. Sure by now they how options
Good show
Hey there I see that you might’ve seen my previous comment and your video has helped me - thank you - if you have a moment if you would be so kind to answer this question. I have the same unit and it is going to be replaced under warranty continuous problem with the blower wheel building up with debris caked on noticed that the air filter does not seem to catch much dust. Every time I go to inspect it to clean it there’s hardly anything on it but yet the blower wheel is getting dirty very quickly. no one can truly answer if this is normal operation I have suspected that air is being sucked in into other places bypassing the filter but no one has been able to confirm so they’re just replacing it with fear that this might occur again with a new one is this anything that you have experienced is removing the blower wheel part of a normal maintenance I know to do this on a regular mini split and I have seen it where it’s just lightly coated but due to heat and moisture it seems to build up on mine very rapidly suspecting something is not right any assistance is appreciated thank you
The filters really are more for catching dust… I typically see the wheel needing to be pulled and cleaned about once a year, have some that go a couple yrs with out needing it… my suggestion for your issue is to make sure that opening where the line set goes thru the wall is completely sealed. If not it pulls air thru there and causes the wheel to get dirt sooner… I don’t think changing the unit will make a difference…
Hello, sir -- do you have experience cleaning the blower wheels in these units? As a homeowner, I can't see a way to do so myself and service technicians we've had out don't seem to know how to do it.
I haven't had to do it, but looks like the evap coil has to come out or dropped to get to the motor and wheel....
I've had the same unit and question for 4 years. Finally I bought a borescope camera just to stick in the vent and look behind the coil - blower wheel is quite clean to my surprise. We have other wall units whose blowers need regular cleaning.
@@user-xc7jm2xd9d Thank you! Interestingly (unfortunately), the installer left these units uncovered without the filter casing (and running!) during drywall work and wood floor sanding and every component is pretty well caked in fine powder of various putrescible kinds. Just a story from the front, I suppose.
Curious about the drain pump. Does it ever loose prime or am I missing something
The slime in the pan built up around the pump blocking it from being able to pump it out
Is there a way to prevent the problem? Is there maintenance that the home owner wasn't doing on the unit?
Really should have a good cleaning once a year... Both blower wheel and Pan
The person who was doing the regular maintenance wasn’t doing it…
Slime tablets, put one in the drain pan about twice a year.
So how do you check the charge on that type of system
When I'm checking the charge I'm looking for the super heat to be a single digit.... It's just a quick way, not everyone will agree but pulling and recharging is not necessary if I didn't open the line set
why are you checking the charge? "throw your gauges on it" first of all you can't check a charge on a minisplit by pressure "throwing gauges on it" secondly why would you even be looking to do that on a water leak call where you clearly found the issue? other then that good video thanks for the info on the drainpan pump very informative
So I don't know who told you that you can't check the charge on a mini split... They are wrong... 2nd of all Im using probes... 3rd you check everything.....
@@hvacwithdrewman98 Good repair men check everything while they are there to reduce repeat visits that aren't nessessary. Good on you for not trying to rip people off.
Can you please explain on how to check the charge other than recovering refrigerant and weight it back in to ID label specs this would save me lots of time and hassle and would love to learn a faster way
@@jasonmontroy9182 the way I do it , single zone.. ( 1) head... Run cooling and be sure the compressor ramps up it is the inverter system.. most only have the one port so hook up suction, and temp clamp to get the superheat. Was taught the superheat should be in the single digits.... Multiple zone system you can check the line temp of each one to see how its working... Quick check.... Pulling and weighing in the correct charge is the correct way...
Can I put some pellets in the drain pan to keep it clean and make sure that the primary pipe/hose does not get plugged up?
You can.. but for it to work you need to get to the access of the outlet of the drain pan to place them for it to work.. best way is to just drop the pan once a year and do a good cleaning
@@hvacwithdrewman98 Thanks for your honest and quick reply.
The space between the coil and pan is extremely tight. You can try the strips made for minisplits, they will barely squeeze in there but you need to cut them down to the width of a french fry. I don't know how well they work other than I have had a unit for 4 years and no clogs yet. I stuck a borescope camera in the slot and can see some pieces of the partially dissolved strips in there - I just hope they don't clog the pump. Oh well, thanks to this video it seems like not too hard to fix if it does.
Hi, did you notice when you removed the drain pan if there was room to install some kind of insulation around the pump to isolate the constant noise it makes?
I don't remember if there is any room for that..... Those pumps are really quiet. Never had any issues with noise