I enjoy your videos but this one has a couple of mistakes. First of all, when setting up a bushing FL die. if you start out without a bushing in the die, and back the die off from the shell holder a bit, you can work up to the bump setting that you need working with one case that will not be ruined by the process. Once you have the die set, you can add the bushing, backing the retainer off just a little to let the bushing float, and size the case one more time. This keeps the neck from being over worked, and does not leave you with a case that will have an incipient separation the next time that it is fired. Finally, if there is no expander, there is no need for lube inside of the neck. I really like the design of this press. Your videos on it have been well made and extremely informative. Keep up the good work.
Much. Enter explanation than others I have seen. You did well at showing the measurement of the neck wall thickness and how to determine the collar needed.
With 40 years of reloading it seems like I've used every full length sizing die made. On the high end, Triebel, to a nice economical Lee die and Wilson is still my favorite die. The craftsmanship is unparalleled for the money. Every die out there has at least one thing that I am not fond of except Wilson. And this is my favorite Wilson sizing die yet! Honorable mention is Whidden.Anyway, thanks for showcasing such a great product!
Very nice but I think I will stick with my Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die. Worked for me for years. I tried others but Lee gave me the best results in accuracy and concentricity. Also the neck tension is dead on.
Agreed. I have good results using a Redding body die, followed by the Lee collet die. As far as concentricity goes, I've never had much luck with bushing dies.
Fired rounds out of my RPR usually measure .296 neck diameter. With hornady brass, loaded rounds measure .290-.291 at the neck. To gain the appropriate neck tension I will size down to either a .288 or .287 bushing. I have found that if I try to size the neck down in one step--i.e. .296 to .288 it really negatively effects concentricity. So I step down the necks in .002-.004 increments which seems to maintain concentricity much better. I have both L.E. Wilson (6.5 Creedmoor) and Redding bushing dies (308 Win) and have found this to be the case with either product. You didn't specifically make any mention of this in your video, but I was just wondering if you made the same observation.
As always, you make some very informative videos. If money were no option and you wanted to select the best full length sizing die to give you the best concentricity, what die would you go with? Would it be a Triebel, or Widden, or something else?
New to reloading (7mm rem mag). I can see how you are precisely sizing the neck to fit your chamber, as well as precisely bumping the shoulder back also custom to your chamber. What about resizing the body of the case? Is that getting sized down to a standard diameter, or is there a way to minimally size the body as well custom to your chamber? Do you custom order the body sizing bushing as well based on measuring a once fired case?
I have the Redding die for .222 and the Wilson die for 260 Rem and they seem to work exactly the same (I don't use the expanders in either die, I use a mandrill after the full length resizing without an expander). I like the craftsmanship in the Wilson stuff, very good quality, but if you live in a humid area keep them well oiled. The Wilson case gauge and accompanying micrometer that he demonstrates is an excellent product. Bought them recently and they are far superior to use than the Hornady style comparators for measuring case headspace, I can highly recommend.
@@charljansenvanrensburg9714 it is also a L.E. Wilson. I have the same one. I have been buying L.E. Wilson and Whidden Dies and other reloading tools. L.E. Wilson, Whidden and Warner are the best Ive found.. Redding and Forster are next down the ladder in my opinion. Sometimes you can find L.E. Wilson case gauges and dies on Ebay or Amazon. Good Luck
It's called a Wilson Case Gauge Depth Micrometer. It's an add-on to their Case Gauges which are a stand alone product. I bought a couple of gauges and the micrometer a couple of weeks ago...not cheap but one of the best bits of reloading kit I've ever bought. Far superior to the Hornady comparator style product that you use with callipers. Can highly recommend.
@@claverton thank you.I willorder one.I have 12 sets of LE Wilson Dies and a few WHidden and one WTC..it was really expensive.$600. bucks.Thanks again I appreciate the help.
The Wilson die doesn't actually size the neck all the way to the shoulder so probably not. This feature is a bit of a hinderence if you are necking down a calibre but overall its a great die.
I just received the 6.5mm Grendel Die but can’t set it low enough to bump the shoulder at all. So what now? Start by shaving a couple of Thou off the shell holder? Don’t really want to be cutting my expensive new die! Sucks…
I've always heard to back off an 1/8th turn when you're tightening the bushing down to allow it to slightly free float. I noticed you didn't do that, any reason? Have you found one to be more accurate than the other?
And you really are only gonna get that if you don't anneal, or at least that's been my experience. Also, neck turning too much will definitely cause spring back as there just isn't enough brass available to maintain the shape. Just right on neck turning and annealing and you won't see springback of .001, maybe closer to .0005 at most.
very much so, by changing to good quality brass (was using Winchester, changed to Lapua) and using good quality dies such as these I dramatically reduced my groups in my 45 year old BSA .222 from well over an inch MOA to well under an inch, often around or below 1/2" MOA. I'm using a mandrill after resizing rather than an expander in the resizing die which I suspect reduces variability in concentricity of the neck. Also a good quality bullet seater (Forster bench rest seating die). Not sure which bit is creating the big change in accuracy but something is working. If I did it again I'd get a seating die with a micrometer on the top, but hey, it all costs money.
Because the die is using a neck bushing which sizes inwards the amount you want. An expander ball die sizes the neck inwards way past what is needed and then drags it out via the expander ball. This overworks the brass and doesn't help with concentricity.
+Dan Neely I think they are great when the application is right. BTW: I'll be neck-only sizing 6.5 Creedmoor in the Ruger Precision Rifle series. BUT- if you can FL size and attain your accuracy goals- I would say go with FL so that you don't have difficult chambering, etc.
That's why I was asking, I'm doing it on my 6.5 RPR. Not really sure if I'm doing it properly since I've only used full length prior to this. The groups are good though. Love the videos.
Curious why you're choosing to use the neck only vs. something like the Redding competition bushing? I'm looking to pick up a RPR in 6.5 soon and have never loaded for precision before, so all of this is new. I'm learning through your videos that there is a LOT more steps than loading something like functional 9mm. It would really be nice if you did a short video on the basic equipment, dies, etc. for precision reloading. Right now I figure I'll need a case gauge, sizing die (FL and bushing or neck?), bullet seater die and headspace gauge. Assuming I'll start with fresh new brass. Also, please do a video on your load workup, and how you do it. Do you find a velocity first, and then mess with powder weight, or OAL? Are you going to leave the OAL at magazine length for this particular rifle? Can you explain the difference between the sizing dies (FL, neck and bushing) and when to use each?
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
I enjoy your videos but this one has a couple of mistakes. First of all, when setting up a bushing FL die. if you start out without a bushing in the die, and back the die off from the shell holder a bit, you can work up to the bump setting that you need working with one case that will not be ruined by the process. Once you have the die set, you can add the bushing, backing the retainer off just a little to let the bushing float, and size the case one more time. This keeps the neck from being over worked, and does not leave you with a case that will have an incipient separation the next time that it is fired. Finally, if there is no expander, there is no need for lube inside of the neck. I really like the design of this press. Your videos on it have been well made and extremely informative. Keep up the good work.
Much. Enter explanation than others I have seen. You did well at showing the measurement of the neck wall thickness and how to determine the collar needed.
With 40 years of reloading it seems like I've used every full length sizing die made. On the high end, Triebel, to a nice economical Lee die and Wilson is still my favorite die. The craftsmanship is unparalleled for the money. Every die out there has at least one thing that I am not fond of except Wilson. And this is my favorite Wilson sizing die yet! Honorable mention is Whidden.Anyway, thanks for showcasing such a great product!
That small bit of actually drawing and doing the math helped my brain so much. Thank you
That second de-capping rod is a smaller diameter which fits the Lapua 6.5mm Creedmore SR primer pocket very nicely which is a great bonus!
Excellent video for people trying to understand these dies.
Does this die have an "expander rod"? Why lube the "Inside" of the case? Thanks Gavin
It helps to not stretch the case/neck in length and save on the brass as well.
That's a nice bench! I like the tracks on it.
Just picked one up in 6.5 creed and it sweet..
Like everything I have gotten from LE WILSON.
Very nice but I think I will stick with my Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die. Worked for me for years. I tried others but Lee gave me the best results in accuracy and concentricity. Also the neck tension is dead on.
Agreed. I have good results using a Redding body die, followed by the Lee collet die. As far as concentricity goes, I've never had much luck with bushing dies.
Apparently a great die but you don't get any shoulder bump with the Lee Collet die no? Happy to be corrected.
Great informative vid Gav, just purchased a bunch of there stuff! Cheers mate
Fired rounds out of my RPR usually measure .296 neck diameter. With hornady brass, loaded rounds measure .290-.291 at the neck. To gain the appropriate neck tension I will size down to either a .288 or .287 bushing. I have found that if I try to size the neck down in one step--i.e. .296 to .288 it really negatively effects concentricity. So I step down the necks in .002-.004 increments which seems to maintain concentricity much better. I have both L.E. Wilson (6.5 Creedmoor) and Redding bushing dies (308 Win) and have found this to be the case with either product. You didn't specifically make any mention of this in your video, but I was just wondering if you made the same observation.
Interesting, haven't noted that- will have to check!
As always, you make some very informative videos. If money were no option and you wanted to select the best full length sizing die to give you the best concentricity, what die would you go with? Would it be a Triebel, or Widden, or something else?
Hey bro what's the bump guage you've got there ?
Brand ..etc ...
Never mind haha just found it 🤣🤣🤣
New to reloading (7mm rem mag). I can see how you are precisely sizing the neck to fit your chamber, as well as precisely bumping the shoulder back also custom to your chamber. What about resizing the body of the case? Is that getting sized down to a standard diameter, or is there a way to minimally size the body as well custom to your chamber? Do you custom order the body sizing bushing as well based on measuring a once fired case?
Where does neck (inside/outside or both) fit in when using a bushing die?
Inside.
Question; how does one get the bushing out when it needs to be changed?
Just unscrew the top.
Am I going to notice a significant improvement in accuracy in a factory savage barrel and action by using this method?
Galvin lots of debate about neck sizing dies. What’s your take? Do you always FL size?
Can you use these on a forester press since forester has better seating should i stick with their brand
Thank you that was excellent
I wish you could pick up this die and hold it in your hand- it's like jewelry!
How do you like that die compared to the Redding Type S, FL sizing die? Great videos sir! Keep up the great work!
I have the Redding die for .222 and the Wilson die for 260 Rem and they seem to work exactly the same (I don't use the expanders in either die, I use a mandrill after the full length resizing without an expander). I like the craftsmanship in the Wilson stuff, very good quality, but if you live in a humid area keep them well oiled. The Wilson case gauge and accompanying micrometer that he demonstrates is an excellent product. Bought them recently and they are far superior to use than the Hornady style comparators for measuring case headspace, I can highly recommend.
We never found out about the neck diameter. What was the neck diameter?
Great video.
What brand of Micrometer are you using to measure 6mm bullet.Im wantingbt purchase one. Thanks
Would also like to know the brand of that case guage.
@@charljansenvanrensburg9714 it is also a L.E. Wilson. I have the same one. I have been buying L.E. Wilson and Whidden Dies and other reloading tools. L.E. Wilson, Whidden and Warner are the best Ive found.. Redding and Forster are next down the ladder in my opinion. Sometimes you can find L.E. Wilson case gauges and dies on Ebay or Amazon. Good Luck
It's called a Wilson Case Gauge Depth Micrometer. It's an add-on to their Case Gauges which are a stand alone product. I bought a couple of gauges and the micrometer a couple of weeks ago...not cheap but one of the best bits of reloading kit I've ever bought. Far superior to the Hornady comparator style product that you use with callipers. Can highly recommend.
@@claverton thank you.I willorder one.I have 12 sets of LE Wilson Dies and a few WHidden and one WTC..it was really expensive.$600. bucks.Thanks again I appreciate the help.
Does the L.E. Wilson bushing create the dreaded "donut" at the neck/shoulder junction?
The Wilson die doesn't actually size the neck all the way to the shoulder so probably not.
This feature is a bit of a hinderence if you are necking down a calibre but overall its a great die.
Yeah the doughnut is still there, it doesn't affect chambering though. I hate it but bushing is the way to go. Controls neck tension.
I just received the 6.5mm Grendel Die but can’t set it low enough to bump the shoulder at all. So what now? Start by shaving a couple of Thou off the shell holder? Don’t really want to be cutting my expensive new die! Sucks…
gaving why does this die decaping stem does not have the sizing portion on it as compared to conventional dies?
It's a different approach that offers more neck sizing versatility- bushings on the outside rather than expander ball on the inside.
What is shoulder bump? I’m sorry I’m new to reloading.
I've always heard to back off an 1/8th turn when you're tightening the bushing down to allow it to slightly free float. I noticed you didn't do that, any reason? Have you found one to be more accurate than the other?
+drfroglegs Yes, that's a good approach.
interesting thst 1/8th of a turn is .009 lol would of solved the problem
Adjusting the float for the bushing won't affect the sizing of the shoulder only the neck.
A whole .001” for spring back?
And you really are only gonna get that if you don't anneal, or at least that's been my experience. Also, neck turning too much will definitely cause spring back as there just isn't enough brass available to maintain the shape. Just right on neck turning and annealing and you won't see springback of .001, maybe closer to .0005 at most.
P. Stewart, sounds about right to me.
Would i gain in useing these dies for a factory remigton 222 or are these mainly for custom guns???
very much so, by changing to good quality brass (was using Winchester, changed to Lapua) and using good quality dies such as these I dramatically reduced my groups in my 45 year old BSA .222 from well over an inch MOA to well under an inch, often around or below 1/2" MOA. I'm using a mandrill after resizing rather than an expander in the resizing die which I suspect reduces variability in concentricity of the neck. Also a good quality bullet seater (Forster bench rest seating die). Not sure which bit is creating the big change in accuracy but something is working. If I did it again I'd get a seating die with a micrometer on the top, but hey, it all costs money.
What song is that in your ultimate reload scene ?
Use the app Shazam.
new to bushing type dies.. why is there no expander ball ?
Because the die is using a neck bushing which sizes inwards the amount you want. An expander ball die sizes the neck inwards way past what is needed and then drags it out via the expander ball. This overworks the brass and doesn't help with concentricity.
The wilson bushing does NOT float. Says right in the piece of paper in that box.
What are your thoughts on neck size only dies?
+Dan Neely I think they are great when the application is right. BTW: I'll be neck-only sizing 6.5 Creedmoor in the Ruger Precision Rifle series. BUT- if you can FL size and attain your accuracy goals- I would say go with FL so that you don't have difficult chambering, etc.
That's why I was asking, I'm doing it on my 6.5 RPR. Not really sure if I'm doing it properly since I've only used full length prior to this. The groups are good though. Love the videos.
Curious why you're choosing to use the neck only vs. something like the Redding competition bushing? I'm looking to pick up a RPR in 6.5 soon and have never loaded for precision before, so all of this is new. I'm learning through your videos that there is a LOT more steps than loading something like functional 9mm. It would really be nice if you did a short video on the basic equipment, dies, etc. for precision reloading. Right now I figure I'll need a case gauge, sizing die (FL and bushing or neck?), bullet seater die and headspace gauge. Assuming I'll start with fresh new brass.
Also, please do a video on your load workup, and how you do it. Do you find a velocity first, and then mess with powder weight, or OAL? Are you going to leave the OAL at magazine length for this particular rifle? Can you explain the difference between the sizing dies (FL, neck and bushing) and when to use each?
Also what if you're wanting to use a single load for both a RPR and an AR10, would you want to use a FL die to ensure the brass is SAAMI?
Cody Meyer just size for the smaller chamber and you’re good to go.
Better xplanation.could follow it . Thnx
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