Very useful video, thank you for the details around how to pick a bushing size. I was wondering what product u recommend in terms of bushing dies with a non expanding ball
I have a Hornady bushing die but prfer to use a Lee Neck Sizing Die. Using the Lee die I always resize each case neck twice. I turn it 180deg. after the first time makes for better concentricity of case neck.
I use to use the bushing dies but over the past two years I switched to neck sizing with a Lee Die which requires no lube. since then I have been 100% accurate with neck tension and bullet seating ; it is one more step but once your set up it goes along pretty fast :)
@@longrangescience initially I had trouble with my Lee die as it would jam when neck sizing so I took some of that black sandpaper and sanded off approx. 1k " and it stopped jamming. Now I have 3k neck tension but it doesn't appear to affect my 223 cases for accuracy.
Which bushing(s) you need somewhat depends on whether you anneal the brass, or not, and the makeup of the brass itself. There will be springback, how much, is due to the makeup and hardness of it. If you have mixed brands, you'll likely need 3 or more bushings, if you intend to turn your necks, you'll need smaller bushings. And, bushings shud be checked to see what size they really are, when you get them, with a pin gage. Just be prepared for needing more than one bushing, may need at least 3.
Simple ques? I'm using expander mandrel, why would I use a specific neck bushing when my expander mandrel is my final sizing? It set no matter what neck bushing I use. Can I get away with just basic FL dies? And finish with a mandrel?
Yes, the mandrel sets the final size so the neck bushing has nothing to do with that. The main benefit is being able to control how much the brass is worked. With the mandrel I can size just barely under the dia. So I’m not working the brass as much. And I feel like floating neck bushing help with concentricity. But really if you have a standard FL die you will be fine
You can. You only need one thing to set the final diameter, either bushing or mandrel. But you can set how much the brass is worked by using a bushing and mandrel so you don’t over work it
With this setup I’m using them to set the size, so no. The only time you may need a mandrel is if the necks are slightly dented. I am looking to try something a little different though. Going slightly undersized on the bushing and using a mandrel to set final ID. Will still help not stress the necks as much
This is a good overview, thanks. I’ve spent a lot of time reviewing options, so full length size then just use an expander mandrel to set neck tension. Setting it from the ID I think is a bit more accurate as you don’t have to deal with neck thickness variances (I measure a couple of sides of the case neck with a ball micrometer to check that, or use a case neck concentricity gauge) and you avoid any stacking of the OD brass neck or stress to it. I have thought about doing what you suggest in response to another comment and using a bushing to only slightly undersize the case neck, then running a mandrel, which will give me the same results, but stress the neck less, but since I anneal it hasn’t been as critical. Also, I bought several Redding standard FL sizing dies so would have to buy bushing dies, which is a cost factor.. A couple of questions: Are you using Redding dies? And is that a SAC bushing? Also, is that the Real Avid gun vise on your bench, or another brand? I’ve been looking at that, didn’t realize it was that large. FYI, you have a nice setup, but if you haven’t already I’d encourage you to look at the Inline Fabrication bench mounts and storage mounts. You could swap out your vise for a press, or any other bench tool in seconds. Best investment I’ve made in the past few years. Thanks again for the clear review! 👍
I found least with Lapua an new brass I get inconsistent thickness the first 3 firings so I use a mandrel just till once the brass seems to be more consistent then bushings, only like stated huge difference in necks not cracking. An have to check my next test is neck turning is not as much needed maybe brass is formed around the neck diameter better. Another test.
Exact question I was going to ask. I use a decapping die. So I can take out the whole expander ball/decapping assembly? And only use the neck bushing for FL size? I kept the expander in there for load development and had good results for a 3 shot group. Would like to narrow down devolopment and have a 5 shot group with my best results. Just want to make sure I have this correct that I can remove the expander ball/decapping rod, use the FL size with bushing and then go straight to bullet seating (after priming, poweder ect).
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Very useful video, thank you for the details around how to pick a bushing size. I was wondering what product u recommend in terms of bushing dies with a non expanding ball
I have a Hornady bushing die but prfer to use a Lee Neck Sizing Die.
Using the Lee die I always resize each case neck twice. I turn it 180deg. after the first time makes for better concentricity of case neck.
I use to use the bushing dies but over the past two years I switched to neck sizing with a Lee Die which requires no lube.
since then I have been 100% accurate with neck tension and bullet seating ; it is one more step but once your set up it goes along pretty fast :)
That’s a good way to go but I have had issues neck sizing in the past. Mostly getting outside in the dirt and having the cases not fit in the chamber
@@longrangescience initially I had trouble with my Lee die as it would jam when neck sizing so I took some of that black sandpaper and sanded off approx. 1k " and it stopped jamming.
Now I have 3k neck tension but it doesn't appear to affect my 223 cases for accuracy.
Love your explanation brother
Thanks man I appreciate it!
Outstanding video! Thank you for the information.
Thanks I really appreciate it!
Very useful info, thanks a lot
Great vid with helpful i fo, just what I needed
Thanks, glad it helped!
Which bushing(s) you need somewhat depends on whether you anneal the brass, or not, and the makeup of the brass itself. There will be springback, how much, is due to the makeup and hardness of it. If you have mixed brands, you'll likely need 3 or more bushings, if you intend to turn your necks, you'll need smaller bushings. And, bushings shud be checked to see what size they really are, when you get them, with a pin gage. Just be prepared for needing more than one bushing, may need at least 3.
Very helpful! Thanks!
Simple ques? I'm using expander mandrel, why would I use a specific neck bushing when my expander mandrel is my final sizing? It set no matter what neck bushing I use. Can I get away with just basic FL dies? And finish with a mandrel?
Yes, the mandrel sets the final size so the neck bushing has nothing to do with that. The main benefit is being able to control how much the brass is worked. With the mandrel I can size just barely under the dia. So I’m not working the brass as much. And I feel like floating neck bushing help with concentricity.
But really if you have a standard FL die you will be fine
If you're using a maderl, can you skip the bushing?
You can. You only need one thing to set the final diameter, either bushing or mandrel. But you can set how much the brass is worked by using a bushing and mandrel so you don’t over work it
Thank you
Do you still need to mandrel after using the bushing die?
With this setup I’m using them to set the size, so no. The only time you may need a mandrel is if the necks are slightly dented.
I am looking to try something a little different though. Going slightly undersized on the bushing and using a mandrel to set final ID. Will still help not stress the necks as much
This is a good overview, thanks. I’ve spent a lot of time reviewing options, so full length size then just use an expander mandrel to set neck tension. Setting it from the ID I think is a bit more accurate as you don’t have to deal with neck thickness variances (I measure a couple of sides of the case neck with a ball micrometer to check that, or use a case neck concentricity gauge) and you avoid any stacking of the OD brass neck or stress to it.
I have thought about doing what you suggest in response to another comment and using a bushing to only slightly undersize the case neck, then running a mandrel, which will give me the same results, but stress the neck less, but since I anneal it hasn’t been as critical. Also, I bought several Redding standard FL sizing dies so would have to buy bushing dies, which is a cost factor..
A couple of questions: Are you using Redding dies? And is that a SAC bushing?
Also, is that the Real Avid gun vise on your bench, or another brand? I’ve been looking at that, didn’t realize it was that large. FYI, you have a nice setup, but if you haven’t already I’d encourage you to look at the Inline Fabrication bench mounts and storage mounts. You could swap out your vise for a press, or any other bench tool in seconds. Best investment I’ve made in the past few years.
Thanks again for the clear review! 👍
I found least with Lapua an new brass I get inconsistent thickness the first 3 firings so I use a mandrel just till once the brass seems to be more consistent then bushings, only like stated huge difference in necks not cracking. An have to check my next test is neck turning is not as much needed maybe brass is formed around the neck diameter better. Another test.
Thank you for taking the time to make a quality video that explains full-length bushing dies.
Exact question I was going to ask. I use a decapping die. So I can take out the whole expander ball/decapping assembly? And only use the neck bushing for FL size? I kept the expander in there for load development and had good results for a 3 shot group. Would like to narrow down devolopment and have a 5 shot group with my best results. Just want to make sure I have this correct that I can remove the expander ball/decapping rod, use the FL size with bushing and then go straight to bullet seating (after priming, poweder ect).
Excellent!!!
Thanks!
Thanks!