Hello Jeff, Thank you for making these videos. They are quite helpful and I'm learning a lot of little things that I thought I should all ready know. I purchased a set of plans from you last year and started cutting some lumber, then got side tracked by life. Given the current situation, this is a perfect time for me to get back at it. So not only are your videos informative, they're encouraging as well. I'm enjoying watching, keep up the great work. For any of you other folks that are thinking about it, Jeff's plans are TOP NOTCH. Well worth the price. If you're on the fence about ordering plans . . . You need to jump down from up there.
Jeff, I love your videos. I am planning on ordering a set of plans, for a boat from you, and building a boat. I work in an ACE hardware store. We sell Hillman brand fasteners, and to buy corrosion resistant fastnesers is very expensive. I have found that stores that specialize in commercial fishing supplies, are much cheaper. My favorite marine store on the West Coast is, Englund Marine. You may want to mention in a video, that places like ACE Hardware, Home Depot, and Lowe’s sell expensive Hillman fasteners, and that boat builders may want to find cheaper sources for a better grade, and cheaper fastener. Hillman makes all of the fasteners they sell in China, and they are cheap garbage, at an exorbitant price. I can get stainless steel fasteners from Englund Marine, and have them shipped to me for 1/4 the price of buying them from the above mentioned stores.
Thanks for the info I am a mechanical engineer. I agree with your boat building technique. I'm from the old school. Before computers. Thankyou again. Alfred Schuh
I built a brockway 14' skiff ,stitch and glue,out of 1/4 exterior ply bought from Lowes.I picked thru the sheets a looked for the least warped and least knots.Glassed inside and out,never had any problems.get marine epoxy that for sure.table top stuff is hard to work with.
As a young man who helped his father build one of Jeff's designs( I believe the 18 foot Carolina Dory,) I can say that you don't have to use marine plywood. We didn't, and we haven't had any problems. That being said, if we had just went ahead and used higher quality marine plywood, it would have saved us tonnes of time and money in epoxy and fiberglass if we had used better wood.
Thanks! Straight outta books....My biggest: Rabl’s Teal (it cured me of wanting to sail). My most successful: CSD(Bolger) Brick (true story - Slick Brick rode to the beach inverted atop my Jeep Cherokee; once I was asked why my luggage carrier had a name, a boat sticker and number) - actually, bought plans for it. Least successful: my own from dimensions to ride in the back of a pickup. A couple of Dynamite Payson(Bolger)s of varying utility. I’m always going to build that world class cruiser...
Jeff, I have built a lumber yard skiff in 20 foot model. I used MDO (medium density overlay) . It appears to have no blows in it. Found only one small one it is just 1/8" deep 1/4 " long on the top of the gunnel.
very informative , no home center in my area sells ABX, they sell a garbage BCX that has terrible voids and is already prewarped. And none of the hardwood plys I’ve seen at home depot or lowes have exterior glues. Luckily marine ply is only like $30 sheet more than the terrible ply at the home store.
I'd like to hear you talkabout how to finish the interior. Such as what kind of paint or boiled linseed to use. Maybe should you fiberglass the interior sides. How well will the boat weather in a rainy climate.
@@tjkid07 I read the blog. Still clear as mud though. I was considering making it self bailing with floatation in the floor and scuppers. I can only see this working if the floor was sealed with fiberglass. Maybe there is another way with removable floors? A worth while subject I think.
@@petterandersson7429 Yes, you can seal the deck, using fiberglass or another deck sealing method (there are many.) Yes, you can put hatches between the deck and the bilges. No, you shouldn't fiberglass the inside of the hull in the bilges, but rather provide a method to dry it out.
@@tjkid07 Ok. It would be interesting to see some examples of hatches and types of oils to use. If the idea is to dry the boat out mayby its just better to use a slatted deck and a drain plug but floatation isnt a bad idea either.
So if i wanted to troll along shore here in NC the Sande Wood ply would be fine enough to build the carolinian 18'? Thanks for the vids and the great plans! They're easy to read
Have built a boat from regular ole Home Depot Sandeply? That’s the only thing I can get without driving 500miles or paying a freight charge equal to the cost of construction.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge of boat building sir my question for you is I'm wanting to build a 4x14 flat bottom wood boat for fresh water here in Louisiana not going to glass it but i am going to paint it what kind of paint and how many coats should i use, and thanks again
Are you planning on leaving it in, or trailering it on whenever you use it? If the latter, some good old latex exterior primer and enamel from Home Depot is fine. You need to wash it off after use, and fix dings and scratches, and repaint every few years, but do that and it'll be fine.
Thanks for the videos Jeff. I'm interested in the Garvey 19'. Can I scale it up to 22 feet ? Also I don't want to mess with fibreglass for health reasons. so if I use a marine grade ply what is the best covering to keep it watertight ? One more... I have a lot of large fir and cedar trees and have milled quite a few for various projects. Can I clad the frames with lumber instead of ply ? I've built many structures and sone furniture but never a boat. I'm going to subscribe after I send this comment. Thanks again. Phil
How do you feel about using thin sheets of ply in a cold mold method? I live and fish and boat in Minnesota, lots of lakes and lots of rocks. Thought the cold mould method would help prevent punctures.
hello mr. Spira. i just purchased your plans "19' garvey", i'm doing woodworking as a hobby and i use a lot of titebond III glues and i'm told that it is stronger then epoxy and it is water proof, what is your opinion. thank you, i have learned a lot from your vedios
Planning a build. A 24x8 barge style hull with 3 ft sides for a Shanty boat cabin for the Ohio River. It will set in the water all summer but on a trailer in winter. Have ask this question on some of the FB wood boat pages and got 27 different answers. 3/4 marine plywood or treated exterior plywood? It will have 2-3 layers of chopped strand matting out side. With a marine bottom paint. And should I use treated 2x4 and 2x6 for the interior and deck bracing? I plane to cover the inside of the hull with resin and fiberglass the floor stringers for strength. Then paint the inside of the hull with marine deck paint over all the resin. Is treated lumber needed? Or just stick with fur 2x’s. And marine plywood vs treated? Thanks for your help.
You can use either. I'd tend to not glass the inside though. Water will get through into the wood but not get out if you glass the inside. You'll need to put plenty of limber holes in it and make sure it dries out when you remove it from the water. I'g go with something breathable, like BLO or a good paint on the inside, so the wood can dry when it is out of the water. If you're using matting on the outside, I take it you plan to use polyester resin? It does not stick well to wood, so you'll need to sand the plywood to roughen it up, then staple the first mat to the plywood, then glass and let it cure, sand the outside layer and then add the two additional layers outside. Either that or use 3 layers of 10 oz cloth and epoxy resin. I'd probably go with treated lumber. Some builders like it some don't. The only thing people say is that it can get heavy, and it sounds like you don't really care too much about weight. This is probably just another opinion, your 28th?
If you fill the surface voids. Most guys who use it put the good side in. The "B" grade fills in the knot voids in the surface layer with those football shaped plugs. Mix epoxy with sawdust until it is the consistence of peanyut butter and spackle the voids on the "C" surface, then cover with fiberglass.
I am guessing the further down the alphabet the worse the grade... My local Lowe's says for yellow pine CCX and for the treated C exterior vener rated CDX... Any opinions on that?
Yes, C side has lots of knotholes, D is worse, B is filled knotholes (with those football shaped plugs) and A has no holes. My opinion is to use hardwood ply.
I miss you so much! I miss talking to you. You were and are loved, Jeff! From your dear friend, Sam. 💕
I wish the Spira family would continue to deliver Jeffs plans.
If you are watching from above Jeff?
Still building my Sitka! Time and money... They seem to be exclusive of one another! Ha
I just stumbled across this video.... This guy knows his stuff... I'm thinking about building one of his boats now! lol
My hair is about as white as yours and have built a few "wooden" boats. Your advice on materials is right on the mark. Experience works, thanks.
Great guy!
Hello Jeff, Thank you for making these videos. They are quite helpful and I'm learning a lot of little things that I thought I should all ready know. I purchased a set of plans from you last year and started cutting some lumber, then got side tracked by life. Given the current situation, this is a perfect time for me to get back at it. So not only are your videos informative, they're encouraging as well. I'm enjoying watching, keep up the great work.
For any of you other folks that are thinking about it, Jeff's plans are TOP NOTCH. Well worth the price. If you're on the fence about ordering plans . . . You need to jump down from up there.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! They have helped me to decide to build my own boat rather than just buy an old one.
Jeff, I love your videos. I am planning on ordering a set of plans, for a boat from you, and building a boat. I work in an ACE hardware store. We sell Hillman brand fasteners, and to buy corrosion resistant fastnesers is very expensive. I have found that stores that specialize in commercial fishing supplies, are much cheaper. My favorite marine store on the West Coast is, Englund Marine. You may want to mention in a video, that places like ACE Hardware, Home Depot, and Lowe’s sell expensive Hillman fasteners, and that boat builders may want to find cheaper sources for a better grade, and cheaper fastener. Hillman makes all of the fasteners they sell in China, and they are cheap garbage, at an exorbitant price. I can get stainless steel fasteners from Englund Marine, and have them shipped to me for 1/4 the price of buying them from the above mentioned stores.
Mathew Ferkovich good lookin out...
Thanks for the info I am a mechanical engineer. I agree with your boat building technique. I'm from the old school. Before computers.
Thankyou again. Alfred Schuh
Your content and knowledge are awesome! Thanks for sharing!
thank you for taking your time to give content to us all and we really apreciate what you do and hope you are happy with what you do
thank you mr. Spira
I built a brockway 14' skiff ,stitch and glue,out of 1/4 exterior ply bought from Lowes.I picked thru the sheets a looked for the least warped and least knots.Glassed inside and out,never had any problems.get marine epoxy that for sure.table top stuff is hard to work with.
I would recommend Douglas fir over hemlock. Much greater rot resistance. Hem/fir is not a type of tree. Its a grade that includes hemlock and fir.
Rip u will be missed
Thank you for information. Price of all wood gone up so really cheaper to build on own.
As a young man who helped his father build one of Jeff's designs( I believe the 18 foot Carolina Dory,) I can say that you don't have to use marine plywood. We didn't, and we haven't had any problems. That being said, if we had just went ahead and used higher quality marine plywood, it would have saved us tonnes of time and money in epoxy and fiberglass if we had used better wood.
Thanks! Straight outta books....My biggest: Rabl’s Teal (it cured me of wanting to sail). My most successful: CSD(Bolger) Brick (true story - Slick Brick rode to the beach inverted atop my Jeep Cherokee; once I was asked why my luggage carrier had a name, a boat sticker and number) - actually, bought plans for it. Least successful: my own from dimensions to ride in the back of a pickup. A couple of Dynamite Payson(Bolger)s of varying utility. I’m always going to build that world class cruiser...
Another very informative video, thank you Jeff!
Jeff,
I have built a lumber yard skiff in 20 foot model. I used MDO (medium density overlay) . It appears to have no blows in it. Found only one small one it is just 1/8" deep 1/4 " long on the top of the gunnel.
very informative , no home center in my area sells ABX, they sell a garbage BCX that has terrible voids and is already prewarped. And none of the hardwood plys I’ve seen at home depot or lowes have exterior glues. Luckily marine ply is only like $30 sheet more than the terrible ply at the home store.
Thanks for the Sandyply information.
Thank you
I'd like to hear you talkabout how to finish the interior. Such as what kind of paint or boiled linseed to use. Maybe should you fiberglass the interior sides. How well will the boat weather in a rainy climate.
I have a blog post about that here: spirainternational.com/tipsandtricks/200601_finishing_the_insides.html
I may turn it into a video in the future.
Petter Andersson
Don’t use BLO on fiberglass boats.
@@tjkid07 I read the blog. Still clear as mud though. I was considering making it self bailing with floatation in the floor and scuppers. I can only see this working if the floor was sealed with fiberglass. Maybe there is another way with removable floors? A worth while subject I think.
@@petterandersson7429 Yes, you can seal the deck, using fiberglass or another deck sealing method (there are many.) Yes, you can put hatches between the deck and the bilges. No, you shouldn't fiberglass the inside of the hull in the bilges, but rather provide a method to dry it out.
@@tjkid07 Ok. It would be interesting to see some examples of hatches and types of oils to use. If the idea is to dry the boat out mayby its just better to use a slatted deck and a drain plug but floatation isnt a bad idea either.
Thanks, I was hoping you'd make a materials video!
thank you for sharing your knowledge
LOVE your videos! Where can I buy your plans?
So if i wanted to troll along shore here in NC the Sande Wood ply would be fine enough to build the carolinian 18'? Thanks for the vids and the great plans! They're easy to read
Sure!
Have built a boat from regular ole Home Depot Sandeply? That’s the only thing I can get without driving 500miles or paying a freight charge equal to the cost of construction.
Yes, very appropriate.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge of boat building sir my question for you is I'm wanting to build a 4x14 flat bottom wood boat for fresh water here in Louisiana not going to glass it but i am going to paint it what kind of paint and how many coats should i use, and thanks again
Are you planning on leaving it in, or trailering it on whenever you use it? If the latter, some good old latex exterior primer and enamel from Home Depot is fine. You need to wash it off after use, and fix dings and scratches, and repaint every few years, but do that and it'll be fine.
It will be trailered, Thanks you answered my question
Hi Jeff,
I'm interested in your panga design boats..did you sell design plans
Thanks for the videos Jeff. I'm interested in the Garvey 19'. Can I scale it up to 22 feet ? Also I don't want to mess with fibreglass for health reasons. so if I use a marine grade ply what is the best covering to keep it watertight ? One more...
I have a lot of large fir and cedar trees and have milled quite a few for various projects. Can I clad the frames with lumber instead of ply ? I've built many structures and sone furniture but never a boat. I'm going to subscribe after I send this comment. Thanks again. Phil
How do you feel about using thin sheets of ply in a cold mold method? I live and fish and boat in Minnesota, lots of lakes and lots of rocks. Thought the cold mould method would help prevent punctures.
can i use 2 plywood layers of half of the thikness fo the original for better flexibility?
Sure, why not?
Deadhead cypress 2x5 and juniper marine grade plywood and stainless steel screws and west marine grade epoxy
hello mr. Spira. i just purchased your plans "19' garvey", i'm doing woodworking as a hobby and i use a lot of titebond III glues and i'm told that it is stronger then epoxy and it is water proof, what is your opinion. thank you, i have learned a lot from your vedios
I hear it is great for boats also. I'm not certain about its ability to fill gaps though, that's why I didn't mention it.
The Professor!
The birch 1/4 ply at my local store is only 0.185", basically 3/16 instead of 1/4. Is that still suitable for a boat designed for 1/4?
Yes, quite workable, if you glass it over.
I want to build a 20ft flat bottom boat with a cuddy, any ideas?
Planning a build. A 24x8 barge style hull with 3 ft sides for a Shanty boat cabin for the Ohio River. It will set in the water all summer but on a trailer in winter. Have ask this question on some of the FB wood boat pages and got 27 different answers. 3/4 marine plywood or treated exterior plywood? It will have 2-3 layers of chopped strand matting out side. With a marine bottom paint. And should I use treated 2x4 and 2x6 for the interior and deck bracing? I plane to cover the inside of the hull with resin and fiberglass the floor stringers for strength. Then paint the inside of the hull with marine deck paint over all the resin. Is treated lumber needed? Or just stick with fur 2x’s. And marine plywood vs treated? Thanks for your help.
You can use either. I'd tend to not glass the inside though. Water will get through into the wood but not get out if you glass the inside. You'll need to put plenty of limber holes in it and make sure it dries out when you remove it from the water. I'g go with something breathable, like BLO or a good paint on the inside, so the wood can dry when it is out of the water.
If you're using matting on the outside, I take it you plan to use polyester resin? It does not stick well to wood, so you'll need to sand the plywood to roughen it up, then staple the first mat to the plywood, then glass and let it cure, sand the outside layer and then add the two additional layers outside. Either that or use 3 layers of 10 oz cloth and epoxy resin.
I'd probably go with treated lumber. Some builders like it some don't. The only thing people say is that it can get heavy, and it sounds like you don't really care too much about weight.
This is probably just another opinion, your 28th?
Will ACX plywood be just as good as ABX plywood? My local stores don't sell ABX plywood.
If you fill the surface voids. Most guys who use it put the good side in. The "B" grade fills in the knot voids in the surface layer with those football shaped plugs. Mix epoxy with sawdust until it is the consistence of peanyut butter and spackle the voids on the "C" surface, then cover with fiberglass.
I don’t know if you still sell boat plans but your links don’t work.
He passed away, quite unfortunately.
I am guessing the further down the alphabet the worse the grade... My local Lowe's says for yellow pine CCX and for the treated C exterior vener rated CDX... Any opinions on that?
Yes, C side has lots of knotholes, D is worse, B is filled knotholes (with those football shaped plugs) and A has no holes.
My opinion is to use hardwood ply.
Are the pangas self bailing?
The larger ones are, not the smaller ones.
So specifically the 23
@@darenleeper1644 yes, the Ixtapa is.
@@tjkid07 great thank you sir. Love the videos
You mentioned 6oz glass matting is that that the same as CSM. If so how does the epoxy work with the styrene binder used in csm
No, no CSM, only woven cloth is appropriate for use with epoxy.
#SpareTheTrees
AllWeNeed are MoralsChemistryPhysics
Columbus never set foot in America or North America.
Any quality wood was and is still being decimated. I have to call B'S.
You're BS!