Hopefully Jeff's website will be available again in the future or maybe another boat plans outfit can work out something to offer Jeff's plans to the boat building community. His boats were really good for first time builders and he had a lot of information in his website members area. I just wish I had downloaded all of his study plans and other free materials while they were available. I still enjoy watching his videos. RIP Jeff 🙏 I hope the fishing is great over there.
I quite like your designs. Just wondering if people ever install a centre console up near bow ? Leaving more play area in widest part of boat? I think that might be nice ?? Thanks Cheers!
Would a v-bottom dory be a good candidate for fishing in a reservoir? I live in UT and we have many large reservoirs. I need a boat that can handle some moderate speed to quickly cut straight across from one end of the reservoir to the other but also be stable for fishing near the shore.
Heard you say where you keep your boat. I'm in Florida and would like to know what you recommendations would be for offshore say under 70 miles and near shore. I live in the middle of the state so I'm an hour and a half in either side. Thanks for your input.
I'm in S. LA and go from bayous to *near* the gulf. I thought i wanted a carolina, but maybe the v bottom would be better for me? LOL I am so cocnfused.
Jeff, you mention that there is compromise in this design. These hulls look similar to your Pacific Power Dories with the V-entry. (Which you do not recommend). Is the primary difference limited to the shallow vee that extends to the transom vs vee transition to flat transom on the PPD hulls? Length for length, which design do you prefer for offshore fishing, say 50 miles into the Gulf of Mexico? Thanks.
There are compromises in EVERY design. Look at the top views of the v-bottom dory series and the Pacific power dories. Note how the Pacific Power dories have a sharp pointy bow while the Pacific power dories have a full less pointy bow. Look at the side views. Note how the Pacific power story bottom rises up out of the water and how the v- bottom dory is submerged nearly to the bow? Put a v-entry on the fat, uplifted bow of the Pacific power dory and you ruin the performance when planing in rough water. Leave it off and you maintain the bow rise and steerability when planing in rougher water. My opinion as the best boat for offshore fishing with flat water or rough, short or long period waves in th he Gulf of California, the North Sea, the Southeast US, Australia, Alaska, the Indian Ocean or Maine is whichever set of performance suits YOUR needs. For the least power and most static stability, but worst dynamic stability, pick the Pacific Power story. For a bit less static stability, a bit more dynamic stability, and more power needs, pick the v- bottom dory. For the least static stability, most dynamic stability and most power requirements, pick a Panga. If you'd like to know more about this watch my flat bottom boat and v bottom boat videos. If you want to change the designs by widening the aft section, adding a v bottom, changing to a v- entry or changing the rocker, by all means, go ahead. No assurances of any performance issues you may think you are solving and no blessings from me. I'd have to redesign the hull from scratch as a custom boat for that.
Do you feel an 18 ft flat bottom Pacific Power Dory that goes say, 30 mph is more seaworthy than an 18 ft V-Bottom Dory at same speed and similar horsepower?
If you define "sea worthy" as able to withstand rough ocean conditions then the flatness of the bottom (or lack thereof) is immaterial to other considerations. A Pacific Dory is flat bottomed to run up on the beach, a v bottom to run more comfortably at speed. But the load distribution, amount of load, flare of the hull ie reserve buoyancy, dead rise, internal floatation, ability to handle a following sea, ability to handle a beam sea etc etc all are more important than the bottom shape per se. A flat bottom has less roll and runs up on a beach better. A v bottom will pound less in a chop which might get you home sooner. That's all you can say for sure not knowing anything about the other characteristics of a boat.
I’m in Minnesota, near lake vermillion. (Fairly large lake) Id like a reliable boat for small lake fishing or big lake fishing (remember, we have a really big lake here) I’d like a V bottom. Though I am intrigued by your veritable V hulls. Are any of your boats happy on lakes not ocean?
Variable V-hulls, I guess? Prior to todays fiberglass hulls, most hulls were variable, and most yachts and bay boats still are. All of my boats are happy on lakes?
@@tjkid07 thank you Mr. Spira for answering, I appreciate it. You’ll be happy to know I’ve kinda narrowed what I’d like to build down to 2 boats: Hatteras and the Albion. Do I really need 19 feet? Probably not, I can just as easily handle the kachemak or tillamook. I rather like the longer lines of the 19’ boats though, and it’d be more pleasing to have the extra space while fishing with multiple friends. I’d like to know if your framing designs can be done with wood joints ( mortise and tenon for example) as opposed to glue and screw lap joints? I’m not a professional boat builder, but have a distinct love for old world craftsmanship and water craft. I thank you for your time effort and contribution to the build your own boat community.
Thanks. Just curious. How do you get around all the nanny-state requirements, such as float swamped upright, float holed, float cut in half, don’t kill manatees and on and on. Went to a boat show a couple years ago (factory jobs). Two things shocked me: they’re going out 15 year$ on these things, you need about 30’ for the liveabiliy of a 20’-er when I was a kid, and everybody must like metalflake. Okay. So I can’t count
The nanny state requirements are for commercially made boats. Home builders are not required to meet these things. I don't build these to sell. The Coast Guard publishes these things in their Homebuilt Boat Safety Guide, available for free download in my insider section, but they are not required in any states that I know about. Not sure about other countries though, but I have a lot of builders in Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Western Europe and other developed places, and no one has asked anything about it other than the displacement and hull weight, which is on the drawings.
Easy ToBuildBoats Seeing it mentioned here, I went to see it.... got a 404 error code. The tangier looks a bit more my speed by size, but honestly, I want one 30 to 35 feet, long and wide enough to have two small cabins with the pilot house on top so two friendly couples can do the Great Loop and the Bahamas for a couple years and not be so on top of each other that the boat turns into the Thunderdome....
There is no such thing as a V bottom dory. When you get right down to it, it all depends on how much time it takes to get to your destination as opposed to how long you will be there. Being there for days is so much better in a real flatbottom.. Day trippers will prefer the V...
Hopefully Jeff's website will be available again in the future or maybe another boat plans outfit can work out something to offer Jeff's plans to the boat building community. His boats were really good for first time builders and he had a lot of information in his website members area. I just wish I had downloaded all of his study plans and other free materials while they were available. I still enjoy watching his videos. RIP Jeff 🙏
I hope the fishing is great over there.
Sir You misspelled whatever you want to cuz you make some awesome boats and have the best plans I've ever seen.
Thanks, Jeff!
Thank you!
I quite like your designs. Just wondering if people ever install a centre console up near bow ? Leaving more play area in widest part of boat? I think that might be nice ?? Thanks Cheers!
Yes, often. If you email me at info@spirainternational.com, I'll send you several photos.
Thank you. Have a good day
Would a v-bottom dory be a good candidate for fishing in a reservoir? I live in UT and we have many large reservoirs. I need a boat that can handle some moderate speed to quickly cut straight across from one end of the reservoir to the other but also be stable for fishing near the shore.
Sure, why not. They're fine in small water or gig, shallow or deep, blowy or calm.
Great video
Heard you say where you keep your boat. I'm in Florida and would like to know what you recommendations would be for offshore say under 70 miles and near shore. I live in the middle of the state so I'm an hour and a half in either side. Thanks for your input.
The Hatteras is a fine choice: spirainternational.com/hp_hatt.php
@@tjkid07 thank you
I like this one for HAWAII
hey excelent job!! i cant acces your web to get the plans :(
I'm in S. LA and go from bayous to *near* the gulf. I thought i wanted a carolina, but maybe the v bottom would be better for me?
LOL I am so cocnfused.
Watch the video, "Which Boat is Right for You?" here: spirainternational.com/vid_yes.html
RIP Mr, Jeff
Jeff, you mention that there is compromise in this design. These hulls look similar to your Pacific Power Dories with the V-entry. (Which you do not recommend). Is the primary difference limited to the shallow vee that extends to the transom vs vee transition to flat transom on the PPD hulls? Length for length, which design do you prefer for offshore fishing, say 50 miles into the Gulf of Mexico? Thanks.
There are compromises in EVERY design. Look at the top views of the v-bottom dory series and the Pacific power dories. Note how the Pacific Power dories have a sharp pointy bow while the Pacific power dories have a full less pointy bow. Look at the side views. Note how the Pacific power story bottom rises up out of the water and how the v- bottom dory is submerged nearly to the bow? Put a v-entry on the fat, uplifted bow of the Pacific power dory and you ruin the performance when planing in rough water. Leave it off and you maintain the bow rise and steerability when planing in rougher water.
My opinion as the best boat for offshore fishing with flat water or rough, short or long period waves in th he Gulf of California, the North Sea, the Southeast US, Australia, Alaska, the Indian Ocean or Maine is whichever set of performance suits YOUR needs. For the least power and most static stability, but worst dynamic stability, pick the Pacific Power story. For a bit less static stability, a bit more dynamic stability, and more power needs, pick the v- bottom dory. For the least static stability, most dynamic stability and most power requirements, pick a Panga. If you'd like to know more about this watch my flat bottom boat and v bottom boat videos.
If you want to change the designs by widening the aft section, adding a v bottom, changing to a v- entry or changing the rocker, by all means, go ahead. No assurances of any performance issues you may think you are solving and no blessings from me. I'd have to redesign the hull from scratch as a custom boat for that.
Do you feel an 18 ft flat bottom Pacific Power Dory that goes say, 30 mph is more seaworthy than an 18 ft V-Bottom Dory at same speed and similar horsepower?
If you define "sea worthy" as able to withstand rough ocean conditions then the flatness of the bottom (or lack thereof) is immaterial to other considerations. A Pacific Dory is flat bottomed to run up on the beach, a v bottom to run more comfortably at speed. But the load distribution, amount of load, flare of the hull ie reserve buoyancy, dead rise, internal floatation, ability to handle a following sea, ability to handle a beam sea etc etc all are more important than the bottom shape per se. A flat bottom has less roll and runs up on a beach better. A v bottom will pound less in a chop which might get you home sooner. That's all you can say for sure not knowing anything about the other characteristics of a boat.
Thank-you for your response. I was not expecting anything since I discovered Jeff Spira died last year.@@johntuttle9544
Do you have plans for CNC cut out plans for theis build site? can we order pre ordered boats with CNC cut parts?
Sure, any stitch and glue boats can be made that way. None of my play on frame boats can be built that way.
I’m in Minnesota, near lake vermillion. (Fairly large lake) Id like a reliable boat for small lake fishing or big lake fishing (remember, we have a really big lake here) I’d like a V bottom. Though I am intrigued by your veritable V hulls. Are any of your boats happy on lakes not ocean?
Variable V-hulls, I guess? Prior to todays fiberglass hulls, most hulls were variable, and most yachts and bay boats still are. All of my boats are happy on lakes?
@@tjkid07 thank you Mr. Spira for answering, I appreciate it. You’ll be happy to know I’ve kinda narrowed what I’d like to build down to 2 boats:
Hatteras and the Albion. Do I really need 19 feet? Probably not, I can just as easily handle the kachemak or tillamook. I rather like the longer lines of the 19’ boats though, and it’d be more pleasing to have the extra space while fishing with multiple friends.
I’d like to know if your framing designs can be done with wood joints ( mortise and tenon for example) as opposed to glue and screw lap joints? I’m not a professional boat builder, but have a distinct love for old world craftsmanship and water craft.
I thank you for your time effort and contribution to the build your own boat community.
@@agualotus Sure. No problem to upgrade the joints. Still have to use the glues, though.
Thanks. Just curious. How do you get around all the nanny-state requirements, such as float swamped upright, float holed, float cut in half, don’t kill manatees and on and on. Went to a boat show a couple years ago (factory jobs). Two things shocked me: they’re going out 15 year$ on these things, you need about 30’ for the liveabiliy of a 20’-er when I was a kid, and everybody must like metalflake. Okay. So I can’t count
The nanny state requirements are for commercially made boats. Home builders are not required to meet these things. I don't build these to sell. The Coast Guard publishes these things in their Homebuilt Boat Safety Guide, available for free download in my insider section, but they are not required in any states that I know about. Not sure about other countries though, but I have a lot of builders in Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Western Europe and other developed places, and no one has asked anything about it other than the displacement and hull weight, which is on the drawings.
Thanks
Hey Jeff, are you gonna finish the pokomoke?
It's done. Do I owe you one?
Easy ToBuildBoats
Seeing it mentioned here, I went to see it.... got a 404 error code.
The tangier looks a bit more my speed by size, but honestly, I want one 30 to 35 feet, long and wide enough to have two small cabins with the pilot house on top so two friendly couples can do the Great Loop and the Bahamas for a couple years and not be so on top of each other that the boat turns into the Thunderdome....
There is no such thing as a V bottom dory. When you get right down to it, it all depends on how much time it takes to get to your destination as opposed to how long you will be there. Being there for days is so much better in a real flatbottom.. Day trippers will prefer the V...
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