If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
I cannot stress how much I want to say "THANK YOU!" for actually explaining ALL the steps and showing how to do them instead of just starting out with "ok now that we have the seat out..." and leave people to wonder why the seat is out in the first place or what to remove to be able to get the seat out. Great video, thank you!!
I'm glad the video was helpful and had enough detail. Appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback and commenting! Good luck with the install if not already complete :)
I have a 05 Lancer ES. All the videos I have watched shows how/where the harness is connected. Again thank you so much. Been looking for this for weeks now.
I just asked my buddy if he still had the part number, but he can't source it in his phone! I'll see of I can pull anything up online through a quick search
Great video of all the steps! Just a couple of questions based totally in ignorance... :-) What size is the sensor removal tool? I'm guessing 22mm, but wanted to check. Is this the lower, downstream O2 sensor you are replacing? Thanks!
Hey it sure was the downstream O2 sensor and your correct 22mm (7/8") is the size of the socket or flare nut wrench. Hope the install goes smooth for you!
Thanks for your video. My question is: both sensor are the same? I mean I would like to buy both sensor but I don't know if there is any diference between them... Thanks!
This is awesome ... right time as I am experiencing the car jerking and with engine warn light on. On diagnosis I've got code reads P0031 O2s/LAFS(Front) Heater Low. Is this the same one you replacing? Thank you
Nice video. I have a 2011 Lancer SE that needs the rear 02 sensor. How do I know if I need a California or Non California emissions sensor, is there a visual clue? From what I've read the Cali and Non Cali sensors are different and have different plugs. Thanks
Hmm that's a good question. If you live in California definitely just get the California sensor so that you can pass their smog test requirements. If you don't live in California and not planning to move there, I see no reason to get the California version. Other states don't have California's stricter smog test. Hope that helps!
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks for the reply. I was going to order the Non California sensor but then I saw the emissions sticker under the hood has both US EPA and California on it, which is weird because Im in Canada. I'll have to call the local dealer to see if they can confirm which one I need based on the VIN.
In this video it was bank 1 sensor 3, the o2 sensor naming convention can change for different models so I'd recommend getting a print out from your local Mitsubishi dealer parts counter. It'll show exact locations for each o2 sensor. They'll usually provide for free, hope that helps!
My buddy had to chase down the cause of that code before. It was an exhaust leak for him, retightening of a flange. But it's definitely a difficult code to trace the cause, could be your O2 as well.
The grommet and electrical connector locations are different. The grommet is behind the engine; it has no cover and the electrical plug is behind the passager side center console cover, towards the floor.
Engineered Mojo haha nah bro. I just kept looking at your direction like *damn he looks hella familiar, did i go to school with him* 😂🤣 if i knew I would have said whatsup. I was taking my PE in civil structural and I remember downloading stuff from your video. Thanks, i passed! Hope you passed both parts of the SE 😇
In this video it was bank 1 sensor 3, the o2 sensor naming convention can change for different models so I'd recommend getting a print out from your local Mitsubishi dealer parts counter. It'll show exact locations for each o2 sensor. They'll usually provide for free
Maybe be similar, but I can't confirm given that's a year a bit older than model in the video. In general though O2 sensor will always be located on the exhaust header and removal is always easiest with an O2 removal socket or wrench
That's an option for sure, but that option will introduce another possible failure location in the assembly, the wire crimp or solder you make. I always try to reduce the amount of failure locations in my fixes. Also in my view removing the seat is a lot faster than crimping wires underneath a car if you are properly crimping or soldering and then adding a protective heatshrink cover. That's a lot of work compared to removing 4 bolts to a seat frame.
Instead of going thru all the hassle of moving the seat why don't people just get the one w/o wires and just cut the existing and attach the new one with bare wires
That's definitely an option, but I think generally that is seen as more work and adds an extra possible failure location (e.g. the spliced section). Certainly an option, but not one I would take given removing the seat takes only a few minutes
If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
I cannot stress how much I want to say "THANK YOU!" for actually explaining ALL the steps and showing how to do them instead of just starting out with "ok now that we have the seat out..." and leave people to wonder why the seat is out in the first place or what to remove to be able to get the seat out. Great video, thank you!!
I'm glad the video was helpful and had enough detail. Appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback and commenting! Good luck with the install if not already complete :)
This has been very helpful. Thank you for showing how to remove the harness. You guys did an excellent job with the step by step removal.
I have a 05 Lancer ES. All the videos I have watched shows how/where the harness is connected. Again thank you so much. Been looking for this for weeks now.
Awesome, glad to hear the video showed good detail for this fix. Appreciate the feedback!
Video is very good and clear, except if you can add two things, tell which sensor is that and after install tell to drive the car till light is reset
Thanks for the feedback! I'll plan to add the sensor number as that question had come up a few times
Do you happen to remember the O2 part number by any chance? I believe this is a bank 1 sensor 3
Thank you very much for this video bro!!
I just asked my buddy if he still had the part number, but he can't source it in his phone! I'll see of I can pull anything up online through a quick search
Just to confirm, is this the downstream O2 sensor you're replacing?
great video. it helped me out big time . THANK YOU so much.
Glad the video was able to be a good resource for you!
Great video, very helpful, thank you bro !
Glad the video was helpful! Appreciate the feedback on the video
Great video of all the steps! Just a couple of questions based totally in ignorance... :-) What size is the sensor removal tool? I'm guessing 22mm, but wanted to check. Is this the lower, downstream O2 sensor you are replacing? Thanks!
Hey it sure was the downstream O2 sensor and your correct 22mm (7/8") is the size of the socket or flare nut wrench. Hope the install goes smooth for you!
Thx! You just saved me 450$
Glad to hear! Definitely a job, with a little time, that's not bad at all and good savings
Excellent video!
Appreciate the video feedback!!
So I got po420 (bank 1) on my 2015 lancer es do I have to change the full cat? Or just the sensor?
Exactly what i needed, thank you sir
Glad the video was helpful!
You are the GOAT
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks for your video.
My question is: both sensor are the same? I mean I would like to buy both sensor but I don't know if there is any diference between them...
Thanks!
Bank 1 and bank 2 , bank 1 is upstream and bank 2 it’s downstream which is the one attached to the catalytic
Does it have to be a sensor removal tool? Or can I just use a wrench or socket?
An open ended wrench would work, but not a socket. The wires would be in the way. If you use a wrench, I'd advise using a flare nut wrench
Bro!! Just what I needed! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Did you have to reset the computer after installing the sensor in order for it to work?
And if so
How or where to take the car to do it ?
You can just drive your car around for a few days or take it to a local auto parts store to have them read / clear code for free
This is awesome ... right time as I am experiencing the car jerking and with engine warn light on. On diagnosis I've got code reads P0031 O2s/LAFS(Front) Heater Low.
Is this the same one you replacing?
Thank you
Nice video. I have a 2011 Lancer SE that needs the rear 02 sensor. How do I know if I need a California or Non California emissions sensor, is there a visual clue? From what I've read the Cali and Non Cali sensors are different and have different plugs. Thanks
Hmm that's a good question. If you live in California definitely just get the California sensor so that you can pass their smog test requirements. If you don't live in California and not planning to move there, I see no reason to get the California version. Other states don't have California's stricter smog test. Hope that helps!
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks for the reply. I was going to order the Non California sensor but then I saw the emissions sticker under the hood has both US EPA and California on it, which is weird because Im in Canada. I'll have to call the local dealer to see if they can confirm which one I need based on the VIN.
Had a question, where does the upstream sensor wire come up through the floor? Is it under the center console?
It comes up right adjacent to the seat
So the bracket that holds the sensor wire beneath the pipe rotted off, and now have a dangling wire just waiting to grab onto something and break.
Oh wow, that's an annoying problem to have. Are you thinking of crafting a makeshift bracket or routing the wire a different way?
Do you have a video where you replace the upstream by chance?
I do not unfortunately, but a few folks have asked about that. Once I get a chance I'll make it for future viewers
Great Video ! Thank you for creating.I have a 2009 Lancer , any idea when you will create the upstream replacement video ?
Which sensor was that one was that bank 2 sensor 1 ?? That is the one I'm having problems with just want to make sure I order the right one.
Thank you
In this video it was bank 1 sensor 3, the o2 sensor naming convention can change for different models so I'd recommend getting a print out from your local Mitsubishi dealer parts counter. It'll show exact locations for each o2 sensor. They'll usually provide for free, hope that helps!
I’m having a misfire on my Mitsubishi 2011 my o2 sensor pop up
What is the lenth of the O2 sensor wire?
Not sure off the top of my head, but it's a couple feet. Maybe 2 to 3 feet long
Oh alright, i appreciate u gettin back go me..🙏🏽
Where can I get o2 sensor replacements at a decent price.?
Online vendor like rock auto or amazon would probably be your best option for a cheap O2 sensor
Amazon you can get both for like 45
@@pinkyhotmessx69 can you post that link ...thanks
Is that the sensor in bank 1? Would it be the same for a 2013 Lancer SE?
Where’d you get your o2 sensor and for about how much?
You can get it at autozone
Not the after market, get the OEM
Price it’s $225
Ditto Jose, it was about $200 OEM
I got to be on eBay for $30 and it works like new
I got P0133 error, is this the same sensor?
My buddy had to chase down the cause of that code before. It was an exhaust leak for him, retightening of a flange. But it's definitely a difficult code to trace the cause, could be your O2 as well.
Is it the same for a 08 lancer?
It should be fairly similar given they are within the same generation
The grommet and electrical connector locations are different. The grommet is behind the engine; it has no cover and the electrical plug is behind the passager side center console cover, towards the floor.
Muchas gracias amigos
el placer es todo mío
Were you in NC taking your SE exam? Not sure if I passed you or someone that looks exactly like you haha
That sure was me probably! Did you say hey? I had one person come up to me, first time ever in public haha
Engineered Mojo haha nah bro. I just kept looking at your direction like *damn he looks hella familiar, did i go to school with him* 😂🤣 if i knew I would have said whatsup. I was taking my PE in civil structural and I remember downloading stuff from your video. Thanks, i passed! Hope you passed both parts of the SE 😇
Can you help me to find the location for code (p1773) soloneid valve system..
Usually that is a code triggered by ABS issue or wheel speed sensor issue
Which o2 sensor is this
Is it ok to use after market sensor?
Sure, I would just buy from a known brand
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks. What would you recommend?
@@vegasdiy1710 I'd recommend whatever is in your budget, I've used all kinds of different brands with success
@@EngineeredMojo Thank you. Are those parts from Amazon ok?
i was told i need to get my bank 1 o2 sensor fixed . Is that bank 1 or bank 2 also where is the bank 1 location ? 🧸
In this video it was bank 1 sensor 3, the o2 sensor naming convention can change for different models so I'd recommend getting a print out from your local Mitsubishi dealer parts counter. It'll show exact locations for each o2 sensor. They'll usually provide for free
Engineered Mojo okies kool thanx 😺
Will this work on an 02 Lancer?
Maybe be similar, but I can't confirm given that's a year a bit older than model in the video. In general though O2 sensor will always be located on the exhaust header and removal is always easiest with an O2 removal socket or wrench
was this upstream or downstream
Downstream is the two under . 1st bank or upstream is on the front pipe (closer to the engine)
Why not just peel and cut wire and reconnect the new oxygen sensor the old one and don't remove the seat
That's an option for sure, but that option will introduce another possible failure location in the assembly, the wire crimp or solder you make. I always try to reduce the amount of failure locations in my fixes. Also in my view removing the seat is a lot faster than crimping wires underneath a car if you are properly crimping or soldering and then adding a protective heatshrink cover. That's a lot of work compared to removing 4 bolts to a seat frame.
Instead of going thru all the hassle of moving the seat why don't people just get the one w/o wires and just cut the existing and attach the new one with bare wires
That's definitely an option, but I think generally that is seen as more work and adds an extra possible failure location (e.g. the spliced section). Certainly an option, but not one I would take given removing the seat takes only a few minutes
Who the fuck puts an O2 sensor plug underneath the passenger seat
Lol the truth