That motor sounds like my grandmother's old Sunbeam electric beater when she used to whip cream when I was little. A weird sort of electrics+dairy smell would start wafting from the thing if you kept it on the high setting for too long. It's a very specific sense memory that goes with a very specific sound and your little motor triggers it.
Looks great! I did something similar with a slightly larger brushless motor with a 15hp Evinrude 2 stroke, and the takeaway I’ll share is to add a couple BIG fans to draw air through the cowling to cool the motor, ESC, and batteries. You’ll need it, for sure.
@@0xKruzr I'm thinking I'll do both, use the old water impeller pump to move raw water through a small computer radiator and strap a server fan to it, then I can use the ocean to cool the air that I use to cool the motor and ESC. I even have a 48V server fan that'd be perfect. basically aircooled+
You wouldn't have any info out there on build process/parts list for your conversion would you? Have a 15hp Evinrude 2 stroke that I'm looking to convert myself. Thanks
This project reminds me of the start of your adventures to electrify your catamaran when you were calculating battery and motor capacity. Cool project stay happy and safe
Yeah stay safe Simon ¹ Watching your long hair dangle inches from That high speed spinning motor was making me nervous But you da man! Great work. Very inspiring
I am doing an inflatable boat, Bris 430, and putting 2 2520w Haswing 5hp trolling motors on it, for main power. And replacing the props, to try to get 9mph, instead of 6 max due to prop pitch. I have, so far, 300ah at 24v batteries for it, and 4 320w solar panels. The solar panels will be a sun/rain cover , approx 7' overhead, for my fishing boat. It will be heavy, but I will still be way under rated capacity even with a couple of more heavy people. Life is an adventure, sometimes you just have to try something different, LOL!!! And thanks for the vid!!!
For anyone seeing this thinking they can do the same, be warned it’s the quickest way to ruin your ESC (motor Controller). Turning larger more aggressive props, especially to push an inefficient hull design, will load up the motors and likely cause component failure in an ESC as most are designed and matched to work with particular size props for specific applications with very little head room to handle higher loads. If you are going to experiment with props in an effort to increase top speed, you must monitor amp draw closely under all loading conditions to ensure you are not exceeding the ratings of the ESC or motor system.
For what it’s worth, Pauli Juppi (on youtube) did lots of experiments converting outboard motor to electric. He used his motors on his twenty something feet sailboat. All powered from the sun. That was pretty cool as well :) I would love to have your part list and the settings for the esc, that would be awesome.
@@dennisaalbers8851 do they though? During summer my 240w panel gives around 200w per hour. That battery pack is about 1kwh... So full recharge in about 5 hour.
that's awesome, great to see someone put together a cheap DIY electric outboard. but it seems like that motor is going to cook in an airtight enclosure running at full tilt. you may want to limit its max power, or put together something to throttle it based on temperature
@@findingsimon why? Air cooling sucks. This outboard already has an impeller that will draw up water. How about tightly wrapping the motor with maybe 3/16 flexible copper tubing and run this water through it? Use heatsink dope to help with the heat transfer.
After watching more of the video, it appears this thing spins the outside casing, which makes wrapping it in copper tubing problematic. Time to find a motor with a solid, fixed casing that can be wrapped in tubing to suck the heat away using the existing water impeller.
Thanks for sharing the video, I think there are a lot of boaters out there, such as myself, who would like to buy, or build, an electric outboard versus buying a new four stroke. I'm one of them, but I'm inspired by your build, I really think this is the future. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to seeing a 150 horsepower electric build on RUclips!
That was awesome. I would daydream about buying a boat enough to actually do the ASA101-103. Retired a couple years back and stalled on the ASA104. But did get a junkyard alternator looking to convert it to an underwater sailboat motor. You're actually doing all this - hurray! I watch sailing YT vids all the time and really enjoyed yours.
You are correct in saying there electric outboards put out that much thrust ! I like your concept and thought in using a older 2 stroke lower unit , it makes sense to do that and cost effective ta boot ! I rebuild 2 stroke outboards and have a few of those units that the power heads a shot and to have a way of converting to electric at a reasonable cost is fantastic you dont need a water pump or exhaust housing just a sealed lower unit ! Mounting the throttle to run off the tiller handle should be easy >
I have several 70's era 2 stroke Evinrudes in the 100-135hp range. I have been considering a conversion. I want power. Real power. 100hp. Plane a 16-18 ft runabout easy. When the electric Teslas and Volts etc are a dime a dozen, I will find the cheap parts necessary. Forget all that programing junk. I want the rheostat/controller to be linear and in my hand, or under my foot. Hit it and you go.
Hi. Nice job. One question please: Why did you choose the type of electric motor where the entire motor spins, instead of the more common electric motor type where only the shaft spins?
You mentioned compatiple votage to your boat, 48 VDC ?? Great project video Just looked up and watched the CBC piece. Congrats, was a very nice piece on you
Great job. I have a porta boat and i love it. I wont take it into salt water because salt water is brutal on motors. . Pretty cool what you did. Mavw one day i will try electric. My motor will run for days on a gallon of gas. 5 hp.four stroke gets my boat up on plane. Top speed? 13 mph? Not sure. Its plenty for me.
Simon, I am not sure how you found your way to my computer but I am glad you did. This is WAY KOOL! The electric outboard engine that you made is impressive. After my last spinal surgery I have lost some use of my limbs and extremities so I am not sure that I could pull off making one of these, though I would really love to. This would be great for the electric only, smaller lakes around here. It would be awesome to get some of my smaller watercraft on plane while everyone else is slowly trolling around. I would be very interested in purchasing one from you if/when you make another. Thank you in advance. 😁😂
If I ever had the drive, maybe I could laser cut some frames and make plenty of motors and controller types available. Just a quick weld up and then assembly.
" I don't know if I would call that a hundred percent success, but i'm still calling it a success." I would too Simon keep at it, eventually you'll work out all the bugs and you'll have what your shooting for.
This is huge! I think a lot of people could find ways to connect the motor to the lower unit. You could change the world by making a detailed video about how to set up the ESC for this application. It took you several tries which means a beginner won't be able to do it without exact, detailed instructions (possibly in the form of one of your videos), please!
Just googling man. I installed a driver and two different softwares, but only one of em worked with this esc. Followed instructions for basics, then just tweaked settings after googling what each setting was.
@simon, you are gonna find a LOT of performance out of prop blade shape and pitch, and as well any trim control or trim-plane blade. were those paired with and engineered for the torque curve of that DC drive motor, i imagine MUCH AMAZING efficiency increase when paired with that motor. get some, and add it to that evinrude chassis. it will make a huge difference.
Nice . Like ur style. Little machine shop nice to. I got a unimat db200 pick up few years back 500 it was like new dr had it n estate sale. Wooden box mill attachments. Might been used few times. Anyway pick up 2 hp Suzuki outboard doesn't run someone tried to make it electronic ignition. Took points out and stuff. But I got free and going go electric. Thinking of 20 v or 60v got DeWalt tools 4 6ah 20v, few flex pack 60v for big chainsaws weed eaters. Thinking about one then size motors so I could use DeWalt packs . Or salvage one my old 18v tools for motor run 20v packs not sure yet . Put it on kayak. Any back to video cool I like it . I'll be checking ur channel out looks very interesting. Hey u stay safe have fun . From ur ole hillbilly buddy .
this is a great idea. I'd like to get some more info from you: Can you link the specific motor and controler you used? What voltage is the battery pack you are running? (I am assuming 24v?) Thanks in advance!
Thank you for sharing…… I’m going to be adding this video to my list of “great information “ videos. You can’t buy Anything for $700.00 nowadays………. That will move anything on the water 💦 that fast. 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩 That thing could make my “DIY” light 18foot trimaran go in the low 20’s knots 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 😎
I was thinking about doing something like this but wasn't sure about wattage and sizes and this video was absolutely awesome. Is there any chance we could get a parts list? What voltage were you running the motor at? Thanks again.
using a 12s Lipo pack, 44.4v Nominal. she pulls a max of 250A in short bursts. Unfortunately these parts are old enough that many of them arent available anymore.
Another thing I like to know is can you build an alternator into one of those that would charge the battery as you're running it just like you wouldn't old car is that possible
Waiting for part 2. I think, just as you mention, that those small batteries cant deliver the amount of current as the motor requires. I would love to see an update with more batteries in parallell.
A success for sure. With regard to the top speed: most outboards (IC style) have a top rpm of 4500 to 5500, it sounded to me that your motor reached a hard RPM limit maybe less than that. Something to look into (maybe a a courser prop). Re: forward battery pack/charger. Because your usage is constant, your "charge rate" to the motor would have to be the same current as running wide open (or close to it). It would seem therefore, that it would be best to not put any battery in the motor case and just run reasonable cables from the main battery pack to run the motor. With regard to electric motor ratings: There simply are no apples to apples comparisons. I am sure that these E-motor companies have found some configuration of boat and motor where their product compares favourably to a 10hp IC. probably not on a dingy but rather a large displacement hull. IC motor/prop combinations are a well known compromise to make up for the IC motor's very poor low rpm torque. An E-motor should work better with a larger and courser prop at lower rmp much like steam engines of yore. The engineering on most smaller output E-motors has not caught up to reality yet except for the very expensive ones like on Uma. Advertising is therefore based on theoretical possibilities rather than practical realities. I happen to have a spare ic hanging around that might make a great donor bottom end. It is smaller than yours being a 7.5 2 stroke (same as the 9.8) while your 9.9 will be the same as the 15 and maybe 20 for the same year. You should have a number of prop choices out there (even used) to try out... like I said above, if you have a 12 inch pitch prop maybe try a 14...
I selected this motor because it has similar RPM range as the two stroke gas motor that came out of this outboard. But the torque and power curves are really different. As far as I can tell, the power supply is the limiting factor right now. I'll try and address that in the next video.
I'm curious when you said you had to plug some hoses. What came to mind was the water pump line. If it's the case if you removed the impeller from the water pump it would solve that problem and in theory it would would reduce "some" friction and less friction is less resistance in the prop shaft. But then at the end of the video something hit me. You had mentioned that it was getting very hot or warming up very quickly. Would it be possible to get 1/4" soft flexible copper and make something like a very closely spaced cooling system like a hybrid between a radiator and an AC coil that could be designed to snap in next to or around the battery pack or around the motor (or both) and then unplug your water pump intake, connect to it and circulate cool water through it sort of like how a heat sink is used to dissipate heat. Whether it increases the batteries performance or the motors output at the very least on a hot day with a lot of use you may avoid something from melting down. I know my high end LED horticulture lights for my green houses have heat sinks to keep the ballasts from getting to hot and extending their life. If they work of the electricity/magnetism relationship couldn't it apply to electric motors that may heat up and lose efficiency. Magnetism increases as temperatures drop unless that only applies to super magnets but honestly I truly don't know but I do not if your heating up on just a short run it can't be good over a long run. I mean you have the source of recirculating a pumping coolant already there. Or just for the cool factor you can convert it to a live well pump through the side with a compressor hose type of quick release fitting lol. And no water ever goes up towards the cowling again.
how long before it overheats? Because that is one of the most important things when picking a motor. It should be able to run for an hour without melting.
you need to change the pot in the servo tester to a slide pot rather than the rotary one thats in it thats how i did it when converting a strimmer from gas to electric
I started out thinking yeah I could try this... then I see you on your lathe, and then I see you sorting out electronic incompatibility issues - it's all a bit over my head!
You can man. I just googled it. And the lathe was largely unnecessary. Just did it to try and use my new gear. Could just jam the chopped bit of crankshaft into a drill and grind it down to shape.
Whats the best way to build something powerful? Can i get one of those cheap hangkai electric outboard motors say the 48v 8hp and just replace the electric motor? Or its not that simple....
Simon, there's a chance your mounting bracket is causing some noise and reduce the motor's overall speed. Let me explain why. Consider an out-runner motor like a helix : it sucks the air around. By putting two plates at a short distance, the sucked air is chopped and produce that characteristic siren sound. That phenomenon reduces probably the overall speed. Maybe a cage mount with distant stiles would solve the problem. I love your channel by the way! 👍
@@findingsimon Simon, I'm not talking about an overheat issue but just about air flow which: 1. generate noise 2. limits probably the max RPM and the velocity of the motor. Air is a fluid which creates friction and can reduce an overall performance, and this is not a legend. Engineer speaking. About your batteries, I suspect you use LiPo ones ? The overheating of LiPLithium batteries comes when the discharge is too quick. Iime is too high. You need a battery with a higher capacity. Raise the capacity until the battery stay cool while motoring at full throttle.
Awesome kludge / repurposed prototype. What surprised me most is how it still has the distinct lower frequency "drone" of a small outboard at higher speeds. Never realised so much of the sound is from the prop in the water. Got to agree, the price of the commercially available electric outboards is just a continuation of the gouging on so many marine products that mariners have come to see as normal pricing.
@@chickenfishhybrid44 yeah i thought there would be some drivetrain noise too, probably all those factors add up to the ICE sound. The high frequency whine from the esc and motor is a dead giveaway though.
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This proves that electric outboards are in the future. You are a talented engineer.
That motor sounds like my grandmother's old Sunbeam electric beater when she used to whip cream when I was little. A weird sort of electrics+dairy smell would start wafting from the thing if you kept it on the high setting for too long. It's a very specific sense memory that goes with a very specific sound and your little motor triggers it.
I know exactly what you mean!
Looks great! I did something similar with a slightly larger brushless motor with a 15hp Evinrude 2 stroke, and the takeaway I’ll share is to add a couple BIG fans to draw air through the cowling to cool the motor, ESC, and batteries. You’ll need it, for sure.
I was thinking something like this would probably require watercooling. You're dissipating a TON of heat with that many volts at work.
@@0xKruzr I'm thinking I'll do both, use the old water impeller pump to move raw water through a small computer radiator and strap a server fan to it, then I can use the ocean to cool the air that I use to cool the motor and ESC. I even have a 48V server fan that'd be perfect. basically aircooled+
You wouldn't have any info out there on build process/parts list for your conversion would you? Have a 15hp Evinrude 2 stroke that I'm looking to convert myself. Thanks
Well Simon, watching your videos you convinced me from the beginning you where a jack-of-all trades but this project is over the top. Kudos to you.
This project reminds me of the start of your adventures to electrify your catamaran when you were calculating battery and motor capacity. Cool project stay happy and safe
Yeah stay safe Simon ¹
Watching your long hair dangle inches from That high speed spinning motor was making me nervous
But you da man! Great work. Very inspiring
which vids? id like to find out what voltage his house system runs/stores at?
Excellent Simon, excellent! Great use of learning and applying! The regular Joe's of the world can do it! Thank-you
Simon, kudos on your engineering prowess. One piece at a times. Cheers, Mate.
I am doing an inflatable boat, Bris 430, and putting 2 2520w Haswing 5hp trolling motors on it, for main power. And replacing the props, to try to get 9mph, instead of 6 max due to prop pitch. I have, so far, 300ah at 24v batteries for it, and 4 320w solar panels. The solar panels will be a sun/rain cover , approx 7' overhead, for my fishing boat. It will be heavy, but I will still be way under rated capacity even with a couple of more heavy people. Life is an adventure, sometimes you just have to try something different, LOL!!! And thanks for the vid!!!
For anyone seeing this thinking they can do the same, be warned it’s the quickest way to ruin your ESC (motor Controller). Turning larger more aggressive props, especially to push an inefficient hull design, will load up the motors and likely cause component failure in an ESC as most are designed and matched to work with particular size props for specific applications with very little head room to handle higher loads. If you are going to experiment with props in an effort to increase top speed, you must monitor amp draw closely under all loading conditions to ensure you are not exceeding the ratings of the ESC or motor system.
@@kauaislash5 Yes, main thing is monitoring amp draw continuously at all peak points.
why no parts list or any details about how you connected the motor shaft to the prop?
Awesome man!! I love your lack of fear of trying new stuff!! This is GREAT!! Having fun!
For what it’s worth, Pauli Juppi (on youtube) did lots of experiments converting outboard motor to electric. He used his motors on his twenty something feet sailboat. All powered from the sun. That was pretty cool as well :) I would love to have your part list and the settings for the esc, that would be awesome.
Didnt he recharge his battery bank? These moters need lot of power
@@dennisaalbers8851 do they though? During summer my 240w panel gives around 200w per hour. That battery pack is about 1kwh... So full recharge in about 5 hour.
Now that you’ve got it planing, last piece of the pie is getting it foiling.
The increased speed and range should be astounding.
that's awesome, great to see someone put together a cheap DIY electric outboard. but it seems like that motor is going to cook in an airtight enclosure running at full tilt. you may want to limit its max power, or put together something to throttle it based on temperature
Yeah V2 will have filtered Forced air cooling.
Put the motor underwater!!
@@findingsimon why? Air cooling sucks.
This outboard already has an impeller that will draw up water. How about tightly wrapping the motor with maybe 3/16 flexible copper tubing and run this water through it?
Use heatsink dope to help with the heat transfer.
After watching more of the video, it appears this thing spins the outside casing, which makes wrapping it in copper tubing problematic.
Time to find a motor with a solid, fixed casing that can be wrapped in tubing to suck the heat away using the existing water impeller.
@@petec9686 you need to cool the inside stator the does not spin the out side is only a tube with magnets inside
That was really cool. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Thanks for sharing the video, I think there are a lot of boaters out there, such as myself, who would like to buy, or build, an electric outboard versus buying a new four stroke. I'm one of them, but I'm inspired by your build, I really think this is the future. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to seeing a 150 horsepower electric build on RUclips!
I call that a success! That is one Tesla Dingy without breaking the bank! Very cool indeed.
Keep on doing your thing Simon!!
That was awesome. I would daydream about buying a boat enough to actually do the ASA101-103. Retired a couple years back and stalled on the ASA104. But did get a junkyard alternator looking to convert it to an underwater sailboat motor. You're actually doing all this - hurray! I watch sailing YT vids all the time and really enjoyed yours.
You're a real time inspiration Simon!
Finally, someone who didn’t cheap out an underpower their project. You need at least 10 kW to fight against water, it’s a heavy molecule.
That was fun to watch! Congratulations on your progress.
Great video Simon - I've often dreamed of making a pontoon boat into electric.
I commented before the end. Really liked your little speech 👌🏼 yes sir i will do experiment
Would love a link to the esc and motor
It was awesome seeing Simon on CBC last night. Your boat has come a long way.
Dont take any advice from skillshare regarding your storytelling, that is spot on! Fascinating project, RC parts? genius!
You are correct in saying there electric outboards put out that much thrust ! I like your concept and thought in using a older 2 stroke lower unit , it makes sense to do that and cost effective ta boot ! I rebuild 2 stroke outboards and have a few of those units that the power heads a shot and to have a way of converting to electric at a reasonable cost is fantastic you dont need a water pump or exhaust housing just a sealed lower unit ! Mounting the throttle to run off the tiller handle should be easy >
Thanks for the video. This motivates me to do this kind also!
Well Simon you nailed it ,it must be in the name? I like to think simple means easy for us 🙄😳👍🏴☠️
Very inspiring. This is the future
thats f-n genious…….never give up simon
get some anti spark XT90 connectors on it with a typical potentiometer mini bike twist throttle.
That’s awesome man! Wish I knew enough to build one of these for my Jon Boat!
Now that's a project that I wanna do with my tiny boat!!! I use petrol/gasoline as of the moment, and I'm looking for parts to make my electric engine
I have several 70's era 2 stroke Evinrudes in the 100-135hp range. I have been considering a conversion. I want power. Real power. 100hp. Plane a 16-18 ft runabout easy. When the electric Teslas and Volts etc are a dime a dozen, I will find the cheap parts necessary. Forget all that programing junk. I want the rheostat/controller to be linear and in my hand, or under my foot. Hit it and you go.
Your heart and head are in the right place, i dont know what makes companies oblivious to what people really want.
Hi. Nice job. One question please: Why did you choose the type of electric motor where the entire motor spins, instead of the more common electric motor type where only the shaft spins?
You mentioned compatiple votage to your boat, 48 VDC ?? Great project video
Just looked up and watched the CBC piece. Congrats, was a very nice piece on you
Great job. I have a porta boat and i love it. I wont take it into salt water because salt water is brutal on motors. . Pretty cool what you did. Mavw one day i will try electric. My motor will run for days on a gallon of gas. 5 hp.four stroke gets my boat up on plane. Top speed? 13 mph? Not sure. Its plenty for me.
Simon, I am not sure how you found your way to my computer but I am glad you did. This is WAY KOOL! The electric outboard engine that you made is impressive. After my last spinal surgery I have lost some use of my limbs and extremities so I am not sure that I could pull off making one of these, though I would really love to. This would be great for the electric only, smaller lakes around here. It would be awesome to get some of my smaller watercraft on plane while everyone else is slowly trolling around. I would be very interested in purchasing one from you if/when you make another. Thank you in advance. 😁😂
If I ever had the drive, maybe I could laser cut some frames and make plenty of motors and controller types available. Just a quick weld up and then assembly.
@@findingsimon 3D printer? 🤷🏼♀️
Love how excited you get as you make progress. It’s contagious! 👍😁
I love your modified outboard !
What a powerful concept for the DIY community. Do you have a timeline for version 2.0? I appreciate your creativity!
Parts list with links? Several others have asked for this. Part of building a community. Thanks
Nice dog RR mix?
" I don't know if I would call that a hundred percent success, but i'm still calling it a success." I would too Simon keep at it, eventually you'll work out all the bugs and you'll have what your shooting for.
I gave you a like just for the little song you sung right before the motor/ esc worked correctly
Very cool project. Keep on learning!
Inspiring stuff, you got me on something here
Damn I'm loving your channel !!!
This is huge! I think a lot of people could find ways to connect the motor to the lower unit. You could change the world by making a detailed video about how to set up the ESC for this application. It took you several tries which means a beginner won't be able to do it without exact, detailed instructions (possibly in the form of one of your videos), please!
Just googling man. I installed a driver and two different softwares, but only one of em worked with this esc. Followed instructions for basics, then just tweaked settings after googling what each setting was.
@@findingsimon Cool, easy, just a couple of clicks. I'll have to try that.
nice project
You know the neighbors were like
How the hell is this dude just carrying that outboard one handed like nothing. 😂😂
@simon, you are gonna find a LOT of performance out of prop blade shape and pitch, and as well any trim control or trim-plane blade. were those paired with and engineered for the torque curve of that DC drive motor, i imagine MUCH AMAZING efficiency increase when paired with that motor. get some, and add it to that evinrude chassis. it will make a huge difference.
Very cool! Please add a kill cord before anything else though!
Nice . Like ur style. Little machine shop nice to. I got a unimat db200 pick up few years back 500 it was like new dr had it n estate sale. Wooden box mill attachments. Might been used few times. Anyway pick up 2 hp Suzuki outboard doesn't run someone tried to make it electronic ignition. Took points out and stuff. But I got free and going go electric. Thinking of 20 v or 60v got DeWalt tools 4 6ah
20v, few flex pack 60v for big chainsaws weed eaters. Thinking about one then size motors so I could use DeWalt packs . Or salvage one my old 18v tools for motor run 20v packs not sure yet . Put it on kayak. Any back to video cool I like it . I'll be checking ur channel out looks very interesting. Hey u stay safe have fun . From ur ole hillbilly buddy .
this is a great idea. I'd like to get some more info from you:
Can you link the specific motor and controler you used?
What voltage is the battery pack you are running? (I am assuming 24v?)
Thanks in advance!
Thank you for sharing……
I’m going to be adding this video to my list of “great information “ videos.
You can’t buy Anything for $700.00 nowadays………. That will move anything on the water 💦 that fast.
🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
That thing could make my “DIY” light 18foot trimaran go in the low 20’s knots
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
😎
My 7hp Merc Thunderbolt died. Conversion project? Thx for the video!
radical content. very cool.
I was thinking about doing something like this but wasn't sure about wattage and sizes and this video was absolutely awesome. Is there any chance we could get a parts list? What voltage were you running the motor at? Thanks again.
using a 12s Lipo pack, 44.4v Nominal. she pulls a max of 250A in short bursts. Unfortunately these parts are old enough that many of them arent available anymore.
Another thing I like to know is can you build an alternator into one of those that would charge the battery as you're running it just like you wouldn't old car is that possible
Any updates on this.thank you
cedar bones pacific blood! You are a real west coaster now for sure!
Very intteresting
Waiting for part 2.
I think, just as you mention, that those small batteries cant deliver the amount of current as the motor requires. I would love to see an update with more batteries in parallell.
All prices end please link motor controller battery
this is really cool
Cool project, did you pull the impeller out of the lower unit? Drop the parasitic friction a little.
Awesome.... It can run fast...
Great job
links to parts?
Well Done.
Very. Cool.
so badass! ! yeah man!!!
Can you increase battery capacity for longer fun? Still might be good to have the oars.
A success for sure. With regard to the top speed: most outboards (IC style) have a top rpm of 4500 to 5500, it sounded to me that your motor reached a hard RPM limit maybe less than that. Something to look into (maybe a a courser prop).
Re: forward battery pack/charger. Because your usage is constant, your "charge rate" to the motor would have to be the same current as running wide open (or close to it). It would seem therefore, that it would be best to not put any battery in the motor case and just run reasonable cables from the main battery pack to run the motor.
With regard to electric motor ratings: There simply are no apples to apples comparisons. I am sure that these E-motor companies have found some configuration of boat and motor where their product compares favourably to a 10hp IC. probably not on a dingy but rather a large displacement hull. IC motor/prop combinations are a well known compromise to make up for the IC motor's very poor low rpm torque. An E-motor should work better with a larger and courser prop at lower rmp much like steam engines of yore. The engineering on most smaller output E-motors has not caught up to reality yet except for the very expensive ones like on Uma. Advertising is therefore based on theoretical possibilities rather than practical realities.
I happen to have a spare ic hanging around that might make a great donor bottom end. It is smaller than yours being a 7.5 2 stroke (same as the 9.8) while your 9.9 will be the same as the 15 and maybe 20 for the same year. You should have a number of prop choices out there (even used) to try out... like I said above, if you have a 12 inch pitch prop maybe try a 14...
I selected this motor because it has similar RPM range as the two stroke gas motor that came out of this outboard. But the torque and power curves are really different. As far as I can tell, the power supply is the limiting factor right now. I'll try and address that in the next video.
Could you please send the list of parts, emotor and controller brand and specs. Thank you.
brilliant mate
Did you do.a V2 video?
The motor will put out more power with more batteries in parallel. The voltage drop of the overtaxed battery is likely costing performance.
What about using a golf cart motor and batteries?
Awesome!
I'm curious when you said you had to plug some hoses. What came to mind was the water pump line. If it's the case if you removed the impeller from the water pump it would solve that problem and in theory it would would reduce "some" friction and less friction is less resistance in the prop shaft. But then at the end of the video something hit me. You had mentioned that it was getting very hot or warming up very quickly. Would it be possible to get 1/4" soft flexible copper and make something like a very closely spaced cooling system like a hybrid between a radiator and an AC coil that could be designed to snap in next to or around the battery pack or around the motor (or both) and then unplug your water pump intake, connect to it and circulate cool water through it sort of like how a heat sink is used to dissipate heat. Whether it increases the batteries performance or the motors output at the very least on a hot day with a lot of use you may avoid something from melting down. I know my high end LED horticulture lights for my green houses have heat sinks to keep the ballasts from getting to hot and extending their life. If they work of the electricity/magnetism relationship couldn't it apply to electric motors that may heat up and lose efficiency. Magnetism increases as temperatures drop unless that only applies to super magnets but honestly I truly don't know but I do not if your heating up on just a short run it can't be good over a long run. I mean you have the source of recirculating a pumping coolant already there.
Or just for the cool factor you can convert it to a live well pump through the side with a compressor hose type of quick release fitting lol. And no water ever goes up towards the cowling again.
Maybe a higher pitch prop? Probly alot of torque there. Could be more than your gas outboard.
how long before it overheats?
Because that is one of the most important things when picking a motor. It should be able to run for an hour without melting.
you need to change the pot in the servo tester to a slide pot rather than the rotary one thats in it thats how i did it when converting a strimmer from gas to electric
Any links to the hardware?
I started out thinking yeah I could try this... then I see you on your lathe, and then I see you sorting out electronic incompatibility issues - it's all a bit over my head!
You can man. I just googled it. And the lathe was largely unnecessary. Just did it to try and use my new gear. Could just jam the chopped bit of crankshaft into a drill and grind it down to shape.
NICE
Whats the best way to build something powerful? Can i get one of those cheap hangkai electric outboard motors say the 48v 8hp and just replace the electric motor? Or its not that simple....
Bluetooth wireless controller from a used electric skateboard as an auxiliary throttle controller?
Woah. Not a bad idea.
Simon, there's a chance your mounting bracket is causing some noise and reduce the motor's overall speed. Let me explain why. Consider an out-runner motor like a helix : it sucks the air around. By putting two plates at a short distance, the sucked air is chopped and produce that characteristic siren sound. That phenomenon reduces probably the overall speed. Maybe a cage mount with distant stiles would solve the problem. I love your channel by the way! 👍
This thing is an out runner. Battery is my heat throttling issue right now. Case will have forced air cooling in V2
@@findingsimon Simon, I'm not talking about an overheat issue but just about air flow which: 1. generate noise 2. limits probably the max RPM and the velocity of the motor. Air is a fluid which creates friction and can reduce an overall performance, and this is not a legend. Engineer speaking. About your batteries, I suspect you use LiPo ones ? The overheating of LiPLithium batteries comes when the discharge is too quick. Iime is too high. You need a battery with a higher capacity. Raise the capacity until the battery stay cool while motoring at full throttle.
Where can I get a motor like this?
I might have missed it but I didn’t hear how much voltage are you putting on that motor
one of your problems could be the the lower unit has a gear reduction so to take full advantage of the electric power higher pitch prop might help
make up a pivoting rubber cam to turn the pot so you can use the original throttle
hadn't thought of using rubber, good idea!
Effin awesome Simon🌈🌈🌈
Hey Simon, I'm in Vancouver and would love to buy you a beer sometime and chat about your setup
Awesome kludge / repurposed prototype. What surprised me most is how it still has the distinct lower frequency "drone" of a small outboard at higher speeds. Never realised so much of the sound is from the prop in the water. Got to agree, the price of the commercially available electric outboards is just a continuation of the gouging on so many marine products that mariners have come to see as normal pricing.
I think it's about the gears in the drive in the lower.
Honestly the bldc motor ‘clogs’ and every time it jumps a fade it makes a noise. So at low rpm it really sounds like a ICE
@@chickenfishhybrid44 yeah i thought there would be some drivetrain noise too, probably all those factors add up to the ICE sound. The high frequency whine from the esc and motor is a dead giveaway though.
Did you ever go any further with this? Can the motor take the heat of an extended high speed run without a fan?