Thank you so much for showing the correct way to adjust the reach adjustment. Mine was much too near to the handlebar. Now the break for the rear wheel is working fine again. 👍
Thanks, the part where I needed to put the derailleur cable back was really helpful. I still had to use a torch light to see exactly in which hole the cable had to go, it made it way easier.
Have that Apex shifters with rival derrailleur on my Salsa Fargo Rival, I was not able to find any videos for replacing shifter cables until I found your video, very helpful! Many thanks!
Hey Danny, could you please at some point show how to modify the left brake to have a "shifter" lever as actuator for the dropper post? That'd be nice.
Hello, very interesting video. I have one question. My apex 1 rear brake shift acts practically touching the handlebar. is it possible to adjust it to act with a shorter way?. thank you
Have had apex1 on 2 cannondale bikes . Both had the same issues downshifting was terrible - gears not shifting - missing gears etc , getting about 9 out of 11 working . Fine going up the block to the easier gears . It’s like a tension thing . After the last mucky ride back to bike shop for new cable and general fiddling to get it right. Shimano all the way
Over time, my rear derailleur started to wobble where it attaches to the derailleur hanger. The problem was solved by replacing the rear derailleur. This is a problem with the Sram Apex.
Nice video fello polac 😂 Taught the old guy something then..Just got a Diverge with the Apex components..Couldn’t reach the levers till I watch this.. 👍
Hello dani! I have a question. Planning to buy a bike with sram apex 1 drivetrain. Brake lever is sram apex 1 with tektro mechanical brake. If im going to upgrade to a hydraulic brake, will i buy only the hydraulic caliper of the sram apex?
No, you will have to buy the whole kit, shifters and calipers. The one you will have is fully mechanical. Apex 1 shifters exists in mechanical or hydrolic.
@@BMA0BMA In my case I think it was actually the brake lever arm that drifted inward rather than the shifter outward. So adjusted the brake lever out of the way a bit.
My apex 1x mech is not working correctly.. lbs said the spring is damaged and causing bad shifting. Lbs replaced the apex one with 1x rival mech thats much better one.
@@thijsvandenbroek5333 Contador used the apex rear derraileur the other year so it can't be that bad. Front though I would agree. Not crap but when you can pick up a red FD second hand with YAW then the difference is night and day. Much wider range without chain rub. 1-8 or 1-9 on the small ring no problem. With the apex FD it was 1-7 sometimes 1-6. The Red goes for £15 or less on ebay. Overall the Apex set is not worth upgrading to rival other than for the crank. FD and everything else you need to go up to Force or Red to see a difference and that upgrade is cheap anyway (second hand.) That is unless it is just the look you are after because Rival does look a little better aesthetically.
I’v got Apex 1x on my new bike but I’m not satisfied with shifting. Apex is a big mistake. There is a strong cable drag inside lever and therefore not correct cable tension, so I’m not able to dial shifting correctly. It’s shame that Shimano doesn’t make 1x drivetrain for CX/gravel bikes.
I had that once when I used cheap cables from Wilkinsons (budget shop in the UK.) I pulled the cables out from the front lever and then vaselined all the part that went along the cable outers under the tape. Then pulled it all back into place, tuned it in and it worked perfectly form that point on. IMO and in my experience it was because of the tight bend under the bar tape and once greased it solved the problem. And for £1.50 a cable then I prefer to do that than buy overpriced pre-lubed cables.
@@dubchills I'v got this issue no matter what is the weather. It's permanent issue in my case. In my opinion it's bad engineered lever with bad routing.
@@MichalJanata yeah i think it literally just catches/drags in the shifter, just after the routing bends around. I put some silicone lubricant in the channel and it's helped a lot for me.
All of these Sram shifters are rubbish, I've fit 13 cables in 18 months to mine, the angle is too sharp coming out! It should have a choice of two routes like shimano does. Now my lever has dropped to bits and they've finally changed the design of them....😭🤬
@@dibbby just got my rebuilt (warranty) shifter back, fitted it today with a genuine Sram cable, same thing again, stiff to push through the shifter housing. Thought it's maybe just how it is so put it together again only to end up with an immaculate drivetrain that gets stuck in lower gears due to cable stick in the (newly rebuilt) shifter. Now the red part inside this shifter has split again. Bear in mindthis was using a genuine (right thickness) Sram cable.
I have the same issue. I called SRAM support and they wouldn't confirm that the redesign fixes but they said, "the shifter was redesigned". As it is now the only way to get it to shift is to NOT tape the housing to the bars.
Although the problem is the kink caused by the cable exiting the shifter its the combination of that and the cable going around the bar under the tape that makes for poor shifting. Use a Jagwire EZ Bend (yes they are for brakes but the shifter doesn't know that) I've even seen people use V brake noodles on the corner of the bar. Another thing you should do even on the new design is flood the shifter with spray degreaser to get all that SRAM "butter" out of there (it sucks) and either re lube with suspension seal grease or regularly use a spay lube like GT85. I know its not something you should have to do but it does work.
Thank you so much for showing the correct way to adjust the reach adjustment. Mine was much too near to the handlebar. Now the break for the rear wheel is working fine again.
👍
Thanks, the part where I needed to put the derailleur cable back was really helpful. I still had to use a torch light to see exactly in which hole the cable had to go, it made it way easier.
Have that Apex shifters with rival derrailleur on my Salsa Fargo Rival, I was not able to find any videos for replacing shifter cables until I found your video, very helpful! Many thanks!
Синяя изолента - профессионал, уважаю.
Just what I needed. I could not find the brake lever reach adjustment. Thank you!
Hey Danny, could you please at some point show how to modify the left brake to have a "shifter" lever as actuator for the dropper post? That'd be nice.
Hello, very interesting video. I have one question. My apex 1 rear brake shift acts practically touching the handlebar. is it possible to adjust it to act with a shorter way?. thank you
Very useful video..I thought I was the only one having trouble changing a gear cable on this shifter...why do they make it so awkward?
Have had apex1 on 2 cannondale bikes . Both had the same issues downshifting was terrible - gears not shifting - missing gears etc , getting about 9 out of 11 working . Fine going up the block to the easier gears .
It’s like a tension thing . After the last mucky ride back to bike shop for new cable and general fiddling to get it right. Shimano all the way
Over time, my rear derailleur started to wobble where it attaches to the derailleur hanger. The problem was solved by replacing the rear derailleur. This is a problem with the Sram Apex.
Just what I needed. I have Rival but it is very similar. Thanks, another great video!
Excelente video. Se agradecen los subtítulos en castellano. Todo un 10. Gracias.
lever hot shifting gears up the cassette,too much cable slack?
Informative stuff!
Thank you!
Is there a difference in the functionality to the Rival shifter?
No, they are essentially the same item with a different paint job.
aaaa ratunku, nawet jeśli szukam po angielsku poradnika wymiany tego cholernego drutu, i tak trafiam na Szajbajka XD
Is there a lever modulation adjustment, or just reach? I'd rather not play trial and error making the brake pads closer. Thanks!
Nice video fello polac 😂 Taught the old guy something then..Just got a Diverge with the Apex components..Couldn’t reach the levers till I watch this.. 👍
Man, so it's not just me ... that whole mechanism is one big PITA ...
I like the shifting idea of the sram but this tops are huge. Cable changing much easier on shimano.
Wow, My best friend, Thank you for your hard work in making the video. I enjoyed the good video. Have a happy day.
What year model or model number Apex 1 shifter are these? On SRAM website it does not show there is reach adjust feature?
My shifter is all wobbly and feels loose. Is this normal?
No need to push wire in the hole, just go to 1-2 speed, and push cable, that it come through the bottom hole
I have trouble changing the Sram Apex cable
Hello dani! I have a question. Planning to buy a bike with sram apex 1 drivetrain. Brake lever is sram apex 1 with tektro mechanical brake. If im going to upgrade to a hydraulic brake, will i buy only the hydraulic caliper of the sram apex?
No, you will have to buy the whole kit, shifters and calipers. The one you will have is fully mechanical. Apex 1 shifters exists in mechanical or hydrolic.
Brilliant, thanks for that 😸
Thanks for sharing, I apply it to my bike
Very nicely shown. Thank you.
My shifter lever arm keeps falling out of adjustment. What would I need to replace?
Same any answers
@@BMA0BMA In my case I think it was actually the brake lever arm that drifted inward rather than the shifter outward. So adjusted the brake lever out of the way a bit.
this sram design is a nightmare ...
Huge thank you bro!
Really helpful mate. cheers
Just the vid I need :-)
Can you do a review of the apex groupset? I am looking at buying the apex hydro 1X, but i dont wantto spent that much for rival
It works great i have it too braking is really good shifter works great but the Derailleur is crap
My apex 1x mech is not working correctly.. lbs said the spring is damaged and causing bad shifting. Lbs replaced the apex one with 1x rival mech thats much better one.
@@thijsvandenbroek5333 Contador used the apex rear derraileur the other year so it can't be that bad. Front though I would agree. Not crap but when you can pick up a red FD second hand with YAW then the difference is night and day. Much wider range without chain rub. 1-8 or 1-9 on the small ring no problem. With the apex FD it was 1-7 sometimes 1-6. The Red goes for £15 or less on ebay.
Overall the Apex set is not worth upgrading to rival other than for the crank. FD and everything else you need to go up to Force or Red to see a difference and that upgrade is cheap anyway (second hand.) That is unless it is just the look you are after because Rival does look a little better aesthetically.
Thanks. Very interesting 👌
Thanks for this! 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Huge thanks!
I’v got Apex 1x on my new bike but I’m not satisfied with shifting. Apex is a big mistake. There is a strong cable drag inside lever and therefore not correct cable tension, so I’m not able to dial shifting correctly. It’s shame that Shimano doesn’t make 1x drivetrain for CX/gravel bikes.
I had that once when I used cheap cables from Wilkinsons (budget shop in the UK.) I pulled the cables out from the front lever and then vaselined all the part that went along the cable outers under the tape. Then pulled it all back into place, tuned it in and it worked perfectly form that point on.
IMO and in my experience it was because of the tight bend under the bar tape and once greased it solved the problem. And for £1.50 a cable then I prefer to do that than buy overpriced pre-lubed cables.
i've got that exact issue, seems to almost completely stop shifting down when its wet, really strange
@@andrewcole7149 I'm using original Jagwire cables.
@@dubchills I'v got this issue no matter what is the weather. It's permanent issue in my case. In my opinion it's bad engineered lever with bad routing.
@@MichalJanata yeah i think it literally just catches/drags in the shifter, just after the routing bends around. I put some silicone lubricant in the channel and it's helped a lot for me.
great video
Great. Thankyou!
🚲
Have you heard of an head torch music got up my nose
🤘💩
All of these Sram shifters are rubbish, I've fit 13 cables in 18 months to mine, the angle is too sharp coming out! It should have a choice of two routes like shimano does. Now my lever has dropped to bits and they've finally changed the design of them....😭🤬
What on earth are you doing to get through 13 cables in 18 months? Replacing my fist cable after 1 year and 5000 miles of great shifting
@@dibbby just got my rebuilt (warranty) shifter back, fitted it today with a genuine Sram cable, same thing again, stiff to push through the shifter housing. Thought it's maybe just how it is so put it together again only to end up with an immaculate drivetrain that gets stuck in lower gears due to cable stick in the (newly rebuilt) shifter. Now the red part inside this shifter has split again. Bear in mindthis was using a genuine (right thickness) Sram cable.
@@dibbby cables always sticking inside shifter, always good for first week then start sticking
I have the same issue. I called SRAM support and they wouldn't confirm that the redesign fixes but they said, "the shifter was redesigned". As it is now the only way to get it to shift is to NOT tape the housing to the bars.
Although the problem is the kink caused by the cable exiting the shifter its the combination of that and the cable going around the bar under the tape that makes for poor shifting. Use a Jagwire EZ Bend (yes they are for brakes but the shifter doesn't know that) I've even seen people use V brake noodles on the corner of the bar. Another thing you should do even on the new design is flood the shifter with spray degreaser to get all that SRAM "butter" out of there (it sucks) and either re lube with suspension seal grease or regularly use a spay lube like GT85.
I know its not something you should have to do but it does work.