Just ordered the same kit for my Mustang. Haven't seen too many reviews on it. I'm glad to see you post this. I'm going to put a switch on mine to allow it to do a burnout before activating it. Have a race this weekend and hope to put it to good use.
Noticed it is spinning when you let off may try to take rpm launch down 2 notches and see if it feels better as it should hook and go then but awsome job.
I noticed that as well. I'm playing around with adjusting the timing to allow it to hook at that rpm. I haven't had a chance to test it out yet, but I'm hoping that will do the trick.
When I was running the factory stock street tires, I dropped the rear tire pressure down to 18 psi, and pushed the front psi up to 36 psi and was able to launch (at the drag strip, on a treated track) with zero wheel spin and no wheel hop. On the street or at a no prep track, every run is different and hard to adjust for, hence, broken parts.
That's a pretty cool "gismo"! I haven't ever used the OEM trans brake (part of the 01A package available with 2018+ Ford's 10R80 transmission) ether. But I've chatted with other guys who have and they say it feels more like a "neutral drop". I race in a foot brake only class and launch in 2nd gear at 2500 rpm, just slightly north of positive boost. I haven't tried pushing the rpm any higher yet. Great Video!!
I also recommend the cradle bushings, subframe supports, and the alignment dowles ( 2 dowles need to be shorter than the others if u have the subframe supports) this is a better and cheaper version of the Steeda Stop The Hop kit
@@KarzKreated lol so how so you tune? Through cobb software ? I thought a device was needed to tune. Was going to ask you , im getting ready to do my swap and might need some parts. Is there anything you want to trade for new xdi pump/injectors?
Lol I've been using HP Tuners hardware and software. I ain't got anything from this car worth trading, unless you want a bunch of broken, useless parts lol
@@KarzKreated thats cool. Im guessing you just need a cable and their program. And for sure, figured u might have something laying around. When u get wider wheels buster is going to shake and bake!
So basically it kind of does the same thing the Cobb Access port does put on the brake pedal to the floor with my bigger turbo. I still can’t boost up 3000 RPMs on the break for some reason. Have you heard of the MSD launch control? I wonder if they make it for the eco-boost.
Essentially. Yes, the MSD launch control is just a 2 step device. I'm personally considering the n2mb wot box because it's programmable. I think the MSD can only adjust the RPM range, and that's it.
Basically, it gives more precise control over the parameters. It does have some other features that are useful for manual cars as well. Not to mention, it's cheaper.
I dont use drag mode , the transmission shifts way to hard and i just dont find it efficient. I stick to sport, sport+ and track. Does yours also slam gears really hard in drag mode?
Drag mode has the least amount of torque reduction between shifts, which is why it's the hardest shifting mode. Every acceleration test I've done has always been faster in that mode for Buster.
Every car is different, every setup is different, and conditions are always different. You want some torque reduction between shifts if you're laping a circuit track. Otherwise, the back end will kick out on the shift around a turn. Each mode serves its purpose.
Just ordered the same kit for my Mustang. Haven't seen too many reviews on it. I'm glad to see you post this. I'm going to put a switch on mine to allow it to do a burnout before activating it. Have a race this weekend and hope to put it to good use.
Noticed it is spinning when you let off may try to take rpm launch down 2 notches and see if it feels better as it should hook and go then but awsome job.
I noticed that as well. I'm playing around with adjusting the timing to allow it to hook at that rpm. I haven't had a chance to test it out yet, but I'm hoping that will do the trick.
When I was running the factory stock street tires, I dropped the rear tire pressure down to 18 psi, and pushed the front psi up to 36 psi and was able to launch (at the drag strip, on a treated track) with zero wheel spin and no wheel hop.
On the street or at a no prep track, every run is different and hard to adjust for, hence, broken parts.
That's a pretty cool "gismo"!
I haven't ever used the OEM trans brake (part of the 01A package available with 2018+ Ford's 10R80 transmission) ether. But I've chatted with other guys who have and they say it feels more like a "neutral drop".
I race in a foot brake only class and launch in 2nd gear at 2500 rpm, just slightly north of positive boost. I haven't tried pushing the rpm any higher yet.
Great Video!!
It definitely is a nifty product. It makes launching the car so much easier.
I also recommend the cradle bushings, subframe supports, and the alignment dowles ( 2 dowles need to be shorter than the others if u have the subframe supports) this is a better and cheaper version of the Steeda Stop The Hop kit
Do you have a cobb access port? The 2 step on access port is pretty cool.
Nah, I'm not that cool.
@@KarzKreated lol so how so you tune? Through cobb software ? I thought a device was needed to tune.
Was going to ask you , im getting ready to do my swap and might need some parts. Is there anything you want to trade for new xdi pump/injectors?
Lol I've been using HP Tuners hardware and software.
I ain't got anything from this car worth trading, unless you want a bunch of broken, useless parts lol
@@KarzKreated thats cool. Im guessing you just need a cable and their program.
And for sure, figured u might have something laying around.
When u get wider wheels buster is going to shake and bake!
So basically it kind of does the same thing the Cobb Access port does put on the brake pedal to the floor with my bigger turbo. I still can’t boost up 3000 RPMs on the break for some reason. Have you heard of the MSD launch control? I wonder if they make it for the eco-boost.
Essentially. Yes, the MSD launch control is just a 2 step device. I'm personally considering the n2mb wot box because it's programmable. I think the MSD can only adjust the RPM range, and that's it.
@@KarzKreated what does the n2mb do the same right
Basically, it gives more precise control over the parameters. It does have some other features that are useful for manual cars as well. Not to mention, it's cheaper.
@@KarzKreated man I tell ya it would be nice if our auto would have rolling anti lag I would risk it for tha biscuit to get that
People have used the n2mb for rolling anti lag. I was going to experiment with that once I get one.
are you leaving traction control on?
Traction control was off. Advance Trac was still on though.
I dont use drag mode , the transmission shifts way to hard and i just dont find it efficient. I stick to sport, sport+ and track. Does yours also slam gears really hard in drag mode?
Drag mode has the least amount of torque reduction between shifts, which is why it's the hardest shifting mode. Every acceleration test I've done has always been faster in that mode for Buster.
@@KarzKreated interesting! I refuse to use it and have found it to be reduce lap times. But that could just be how im set up or something.
Every car is different, every setup is different, and conditions are always different. You want some torque reduction between shifts if you're laping a circuit track. Otherwise, the back end will kick out on the shift around a turn. Each mode serves its purpose.
@@KarzKreated true that! So what you’re saying is use drag strip mode for drifting lol.
I can say that when I got my transmission tune done by EMS in sport mode it shifts really hard only if you’re giving it more than half throttle
Why would you need launch control on a street car? Are you racing on Imola or something?
For fun. No other practical reason.