mostly just for the cool nosies, but if you're racing it's useful to be able to adjust the rpm and behaviour of the rev limit, as on turbo engines it means you can build up pressure without having to redline your engine. and it's useful if your engine just flat out doesn't have a rev limiter to begin with lol
Awesome video man, and great to see a decent comparison between the two. Just my 2 cents worth, and this may come in handy for anyone who has purchased a fake Bee*R unit that is either.. Faulty = engine stalls/ fails to start , and/or wont cut ignition Half-ass = it "kinda works" on 1 or 2 rpm/gain settings, or it cuts ignition but is unable to hold the rpm and blows past. (Assuming the wiring is done correctly!!!) ...The fix... Get yourself this chip. uln2003d1013tr array darlington smd (must be SOIC package!) I literally walked into my local circuit board/electronic repair shop and he just gave it to me, otherwise its like a couple dollars. Unsolder the original chip (the 16 pin) and replace. You now have a working fake bee*r. It will never be the same as the real deal, but hey.. I spent to much time looking into the fakes, anded up basically reverse engineering it and ran it through an oscilloscope + signal generator etc to find the issues and solution. The Kezzler 😂
Wow, can't believe something that simple would work haha, might have to test this at some point, as you can see in this video our fake didn't even work at first 🤣
@@kezza20det Might have to give this a go as well, how do you know so much about all this? Haha Would love you to PM me actually I've been wanting to try something but need some advice haha.
Hey bro, I’m looking at putting one in my daily and was wondering if I wire the 12v and ground to a DPST (2 circuits on/off) switch will I be able to safely turn it on and off or is there a better way? Cheers
The red one is your normal 1.And I think the white one should go to the clutch pedal sensor I see a lot of people hook it up to their e break I wouldn't want my rev to change when my ebrekes on Would rather have it change when my clutches in or out Lower rev when the clutch is in Set to a higher rev when it's out Kind of like a launch control
Hey mate just wondering in the link left below for the genuine Bee R, what part number exactly was the one you bought I see that you put buy type b but their all type b 😅 I don't want to buy the wrong one is all
Don't think that was the issue, I'd imagine if you didn't have the correct wires cut etc it would not read the RPM correctly and wouldn't cut at the right RPM (it was cutting where we set it to in the video) But this comment could help others if theirs doesn't come set correct 👍
@Chr0m3 Motorsport no worries man. If you ever work out how to do it, hopefully you are more willing to share than the gronks that have worked it out and won't share it. You've pretty much proved that with this video. I struggled for ages to get mine to work now itll be a 5 minute fix.
@@pentergraph I don't get why everyone is so secret with bee r, we found out how to do it and released it, yet people who use our diagram think they can gate keep it 🤣
I wired fake AliExpress type B one in my 1999 accord(Europe). Yellow one goes in to blue connection blue wire(tacho rpms), green wire goes in to gray connection yellow/green wire. It works from 4k rpms because it fucks with vtec. For type h and type H2 you just cut yel/grn wire both bee r wires on cut wires. One to ECU, one to engine side. If do not start, switch.
I wired fake AliExpress type B one in my 1999 accord(Europe). Yellow one goes in to blue connection blue wire(tacho rpms), green wire goes in to gray connection yellow/green wire. It works from 4k rpms because it fucks with vtec. For type h and type H2 you just cut yel/grn wire both bee r wires on cut wires. One to ECU, one to engine side. If do not start, switch.
Hey, only buy genuine from Japan, so hard tuned, nengun etc.. get a type B as it's universal and the ball park cost is about $300 - $400 after shipping etc.
I see absolutely no point in this garbage! Where do I get one?
mostly just for the cool nosies, but if you're racing it's useful to be able to adjust the rpm and behaviour of the rev limit, as on turbo engines it means you can build up pressure without having to redline your engine. and it's useful if your engine just flat out doesn't have a rev limiter to begin with lol
Sometimes the cheap eBay spec ones come wired backwards, try swapping the 1° and 120° around (green and yellow wires)
Nice to know, wasn't the case with ours though.
Awesome video man, and great to see a decent comparison between the two.
Just my 2 cents worth, and this may come in handy for anyone who has purchased a fake Bee*R unit that is either..
Faulty = engine stalls/ fails to start , and/or wont cut ignition
Half-ass = it "kinda works" on 1 or 2 rpm/gain settings, or it cuts ignition but is unable to hold the rpm and blows past.
(Assuming the wiring is done correctly!!!)
...The fix...
Get yourself this chip. uln2003d1013tr array darlington smd (must be SOIC package!)
I literally walked into my local circuit board/electronic repair shop and he just gave it to me, otherwise its like a couple dollars.
Unsolder the original chip (the 16 pin) and replace.
You now have a working fake bee*r. It will never be the same as the real deal, but hey..
I spent to much time looking into the fakes, anded up basically reverse engineering it and ran it through an oscilloscope + signal generator etc to find the issues and solution.
The Kezzler 😂
Wow, can't believe something that simple would work haha, might have to test this at some point, as you can see in this video our fake didn't even work at first 🤣
@@kezza20det Might have to give this a go as well, how do you know so much about all this? Haha
Would love you to PM me actually I've been wanting to try something but need some advice haha.
Sorry for the late reply mate but I have messaged you via Facebook, I have some photos and video to share of it all.
@@CHR0M3x you gotta do a video on this for sure bro!
@@kezza20detcan I pm you about this PLEASE!?
Hey bro, I’m looking at putting one in my daily and was wondering if I wire the 12v and ground to a DPST (2 circuits on/off) switch will I be able to safely turn it on and off or is there a better way? Cheers
The red one is your normal 1.And I think the white one should go to the clutch pedal sensor I see a lot of people hook it up to their e break I wouldn't want my rev to change when my ebrekes on Would rather have it change when my clutches in or out Lower rev when the clutch is in Set to a higher rev when it's out Kind of like a launch control
It's however you want to use it.
Where do you wire the white wire to
Howzit man, what type do u run ? Type B, type H or type H2
Would this work on a vp/vn ?
Surely there someone that has an idea on putting one into a 3RZ lux
Where can I buy one for my 2003 Hyundai accent GL
The website has different kinds of modules for different cars. Mine isn’t on there, so can I just buy any module?
Hey mate just wondering in the link left below for the genuine Bee R, what part number exactly was the one you bought I see that you put buy type b but their all type b 😅 I don't want to buy the wrong one is all
second this i dont see one for commodore but i guess they are all the same ?
All type B's are a "Universal" type deal, so literally any type B.
On the fake one your supposed to cut one of the wire. I belived the grey one is for 4cyl and I forgot the other ones
Don't think that was the issue, I'd imagine if you didn't have the correct wires cut etc it would not read the RPM correctly and wouldn't cut at the right RPM (it was cutting where we set it to in the video)
But this comment could help others if theirs doesn't come set correct 👍
Can i install in v8? Wiring it like be 6 cyl
This is golden
Can you show how to do a lumpy tune next?
Cheers
I don't know about that as I've never tried to do it, but I plan on doing some videos very soon going into flashing the ecu etc..
@Chr0m3 Motorsport no worries man. If you ever work out how to do it, hopefully you are more willing to share than the gronks that have worked it out and won't share it.
You've pretty much proved that with this video. I struggled for ages to get mine to work now itll be a 5 minute fix.
@@pentergraph I don't get why everyone is so secret with bee r, we found out how to do it and released it, yet people who use our diagram think they can gate keep it 🤣
@@pentergraphhahahahaha you mad you can't figure out the lump yourself 🤣🤣🤣🤣
would the type b work on a filthy old farm hack au falc?
i have a vw polo 6n2 how can i install it
how can i contact u
Really easy to see which is real and fake
Certainly is, and this is why I tell people only bother with the genuine, also apparently this is one of the "better" fake ones 🤣
Can this be setup on a l27 Buick
I don't see why not, but I don't have experience trying it.
How much is cost the BEE-R for a NEON SRT4 2005 and chip to ciudad juarez chihuahua mexico thanks you
$4,000,000,000 USD
Which car did you buy The genuine one for thru your link
Any type B will work as they're "Universal".
Does it work on motorcycles?
how to install ber rev limit fake to honda civic ej9?
I wired fake AliExpress type B one in my 1999 accord(Europe). Yellow one goes in to blue connection blue wire(tacho rpms), green wire goes in to gray connection yellow/green wire. It works from 4k rpms because it fucks with vtec. For type h and type H2 you just cut yel/grn wire both bee r wires on cut wires. One to ECU, one to engine side. If do not start, switch.
I wired fake AliExpress type B one in my 1999 accord(Europe). Yellow one goes in to blue connection blue wire(tacho rpms), green wire goes in to gray connection yellow/green wire. It works from 4k rpms because it fucks with vtec. For type h and type H2 you just cut yel/grn wire both bee r wires on cut wires. One to ECU, one to engine side. If do not start, switch.
Does it work on cars with no turbo and shots flames?
Will this work on a car with cats?
If you want to delete your cats in explosive fashion 🤣
Has anyone put a beeR on a LS1? If so, I'm guessing either the green or yellow wire go to crank angle sensor signal and other goes where ?
stick with MSD 2 step for LS, much better and about same price.
Msd or lingenfelter. Lingenfelter has more features like no lift shifting on the clutch switch
What one do I buy? Only showing ones for jdm cars and not ecotec
Type B as it's universal, so any type B.
What type as they only show ones for Japanese cars
Any type B as they're universal.
shame they dont sell new Bee Rs anymore :(
Hey mate where abouts did you buy it from and what’s the ball park on price for them tia
Hey, only buy genuine from Japan, so hard tuned, nengun etc.. get a type B as it's universal and the ball park cost is about $300 - $400 after shipping etc.
I wired mine up 12v and ground to battery, and rest to dfi. White isnt connected.
It wint crank over.. any idea?
From nengun too, and is type b..
I have a person like this anymore I don't know.
Can someone link me the bee r for a vz alloytech engine please.
Wanna do it for shits and gigs.
Don't believe there is one mate
Any nengun type b mate, just get one for a 350z or whatever there all the same
@@DI3INSTYL3 cheers mate.
Won't work on an alloytec, will throw misfire codes.
Does the real one give check engine light?
It can if you abuse it, but I never had one unless I was running stupid settings.
😮, wat this things useless, were do ya buy it from 😅
The fake one was from eBay.