I actually got one gifted after a neighbor's kid went and bashed his head in. Probably too young a kid and uncoordinated and no helmet. It has no juice but the light switch turn on. Gonna get a charger for it. Maybe it just needs that but thanks for showing everybody how to change the batts should that be required.
Hey! I'm glad I came across this video. I have a razor pocket mod that has been sitting around and I'm trying to fix for a friend so she can resell it. The switch light turns on but when I twist the go lever all i hear is a click and nothing happens. From what I could find online it seems like it might need a new battery. I took it apart, took the battery out to find it was all hot glued up at the connectors. On Amazon new batteries on their own cost $35, batteries with the wires connected cost $65 and up. Trying to save money so I've spent the last hour trying to slowly take the glue off the connectors to save and re-use the wire. Is it worth it for me to do that? Should I just cut the wires and attach new connectors like you have in this video?
@@FrugalRepair I'm asking because is it worth me trying your way of cutting/stripping the existing wires to attach to the new batteries? This might sound like a dumb question but bear with me, I'm new at attempting to fix anything like this. I'm trying to save $ by not buying new batteries w/ already attached wires for double the price of what I could buy for just the 2 batteries alone and use the old existing wires. I spent a lot of time slowly cutting away the glue but still I am having trouble getting the part where they connect off, not sure if maybe glue got shoved up in there? and if there is glue all stuck inside and i've been prying away at it, I'm assuming I should just try what you show in the video, like could the existing connections be damaged?
I usually put on new connectors because it’s faster. The wire connectors might be soldered on and then the put hot glue on top. You probably don’t want to bother to desolder the connections if that is the case and go with the new connectors.
btw before you start spending your precious money on trying to buy a new one just look it up and maybe it will be cheaper than what you was about to do. thank you
For those four F2 Connectors for wiring, they are also called female terminal connectors and female couplers. They are 0.25 inches wide and take 16-14 AWG wires. Get the fully insulated ones so bare metal isn't exposed. Went to the Canadian Tire and they were called "Nylon Couplers" from the brand "Motomaster" in the Automotive Department. They have a translucent turquoise color for their insulation nylon. Got 4 of them in 1 box for $3.99 CAD + tax on 2024 June 7. Don't get the red shrink wrap ones cost $7.99 for 3 pieces at Canadian Tire. Unfortunately Amazon sells you 200-300 connectors in a kit in 3 sizes for $10-20 CAD, way too many. Or you can get 100 for $20 CAD.
You really should of used heat on those F2 connectors to shrink the connection making it water proof. Saves you from future problems. Anyways, thanks for the video!
Got a question, I have a e150 (basically the same thing as the e100 with the wiring). Was wondering if I could swap out the batteries to something else other than lead acid?
What happen to the insolation for batteries tabs? It scooter gets hit hard, the batteries might get shorted and scooter will be on smoke. I would put some cushions for those batteries as well... Those are lead acid batteries. Kind of dodgy repair.
Appreciate your DIY vid but can’t give high marks cause you 1- allowed the battery terminals to contact across batteries while connecting in series and replacing into scooter cavity (you warned of shorting earlier but didn’t heed own advise. Risk or not, it’s sloppy discipline and those DIYers who dont know any better can create problems for themselves) 2- you didn’t reinstall (on vid) the foam slip pad and battery cross bar (assuming you did off camera but bad form to save a couple seconds of clip) and 3- allowed little lady to operate scooter w/o helmet. Not mine to judge but demonstrating proper caution for vid sake isn’t to much to ask in my opinion. Still, I watched and commented so maybe algorithm still gets a boost.
Thanks for the instructional video on how to wire the batteries in series. Initially, I did not wire the batteries on my scooter in series and one of the batteries melted down upon charging. Very important to wire the batteries in series!
@@armandosalinas1326 Get a 12v charger with a 2amp charging option. Usually there are inexpensive auto battery chargers at your local store that would work fine.
OMG, this is a very dangerous setup. Two battery terminals are dangerously close or touching each other. There is a perfect short circuit coming at any time. Anyone who follow these exact steps should place a plastic insulator between two batteries or rearrange the batteries so their terminals are away from each other. Guess why there is no power after charging? One of the batteries is shorted out!
My ppp scooter 24v fully charged. Wont run. Doing troubleshooting control box does not make a clicking noise unless charger in plug in to scooter? Please help im so lost.
Great, thanks. I'm going to try this fix. My son's scooter still charges and the light still lights up showing its on, but it won't move. Does that sound just like too weak of a battery?
Hey by chance do you know anywhere (in Canada) where I can get some cheap batteries for one of these? I've looked around and can only find each 12V 4.5AH for $40.
If you only want to change the batteries then you need 24v going to the controller. Usually this is done with (2) 12v batteries wired in series. The AH (Amp-Hour) means how much storage capacity the battery has. If it has a bigger capacity (or AH) then it means the battery is usually a larger size. If you want the batteries to fit inside the chassis properly then you will need the correct size of batteries. In this case, for the e100 scotter, you want (2) 5Ah batteries. (2) 7AH ones wouldn't fit.
Your right, I didn't in the video because I wanted to test the install first. After verifying that the batteries were installed correctly, the bar was put back in and the remaining screws. I'm assuming most people will put the bar and the screws back into place since that would be fairly obvious.
You won't be able to use 24v batteries without modification to the scooter. Plus, the batteries would likely not fit in the chassis. The charging system/control board and motor are designed for a 24v volt system. Since the batteries are wired in series (2) 24v would get you a 48v output.
25$ for both of them www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=razor+e150+batterires&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=Razor+E100+E125+E150+Electric+Scooter+battery&_sacat=0
Brian Young Unfortunately, it probably means that you need new batteries. There is a small chance it could be a loose cable, bad charger or a fuse issue. But my guess is the batteries.
That is definitely one way to do it. I'm guessing they originally soldered them in at the factory because they wanted to minimize the chance that vibration could loosen a connection. Congrats on your repair!
I don't see why that would be a problem. Just make sure you are charging the two batteries in series (24v). I'd also want to make sure that the charger has the "brains" to shut off when it is done charger or if there is a problem.
Great. I should also add that your charger should have the smarts in it to know how to charge the batteries. I'm not sure what kind of old adapter you are using. I charge my batteries with 2 amps with a smart charger and have no issues.
It is a old receipt printer adapter. I tapped into the + and - of the scooter charging port and have not seen smoke or sparks yet :D The wires all seem to stay cool when the charger is plugged in. Funny thing is my E100 looked exactly like yours(pink) but i stripped it on the weekend and lubricated the wheel bearings etc. I then sprayed it Matt black :D
Since it is a printer adapter, I doubt it would have any smarts to it. It probably puts out 60 watts constantly. How will it know when to stop charging the battery?
I don't see why that would be an issue. I'm assuming it is an SLA battery. You would want to check the brains in the charger if it is a different (LIPO for example) kind of battery.
I actually got one gifted after a neighbor's kid went and bashed his head in. Probably too young a kid and uncoordinated and no helmet. It has no juice but the light switch turn on. Gonna get a charger for it. Maybe it just needs that but thanks for showing everybody how to change the batts should that be required.
Thanks!!! You saved me I took the batteries and wires out months ago. Wasn't sure how to but them back in.
Awesome to hear. Glad it helped!
If
when i say thank you i'm speaking for my self lol
Thanks for this video. I think it's strange you can't just change the battery by unplugging the old one, and plugging in a new one.
thank you you may made every kid happy with there scooter that is now fixed
What a nice thing you did for your kid! Good job!
+ubvids Thanks!
Hey! I'm glad I came across this video. I have a razor pocket mod that has been sitting around and I'm trying to fix for a friend so she can resell it. The switch light turns on but when I twist the go lever all i hear is a click and nothing happens. From what I could find online it seems like it might need a new battery. I took it apart, took the battery out to find it was all hot glued up at the connectors. On Amazon new batteries on their own cost $35, batteries with the wires connected cost $65 and up. Trying to save money so I've spent the last hour trying to slowly take the glue off the connectors to save and re-use the wire. Is it worth it for me to do that? Should I just cut the wires and attach new connectors like you have in this video?
You can do either. The glue is not necessary.
@@FrugalRepair I'm asking because is it worth me trying your way of cutting/stripping the existing wires to attach to the new batteries? This might sound like a dumb question but bear with me, I'm new at attempting to fix anything like this. I'm trying to save $ by not buying new batteries w/ already attached wires for double the price of what I could buy for just the 2 batteries alone and use the old existing wires.
I spent a lot of time slowly cutting away the glue but still I am having trouble getting the part where they connect off, not sure if maybe glue got shoved up in there? and if there is glue all stuck inside and i've been prying away at it, I'm assuming I should just try what you show in the video, like could the existing connections be damaged?
I usually put on new connectors because it’s faster. The wire connectors might be soldered on and then the put hot glue on top. You probably don’t want to bother to desolder the connections if that is the case and go with the new connectors.
@@FrugalRepairshe meant did she have to buy wires with it your video explains you don’t have too tho just need battery’s and a connector thing
btw before you start spending your precious money on trying to buy a new one just look it up and maybe it will be cheaper than what you was about to do. thank you
Thanks for your share, does the scooter use 24Vdc power supply?
Yes, (2) 12v batteries in series. The power supply is 24v.
Where do I get the batteries?
For those four F2 Connectors for wiring, they are also called female terminal connectors and female couplers. They are 0.25 inches wide and take 16-14 AWG wires. Get the fully insulated ones so bare metal isn't exposed.
Went to the Canadian Tire and they were called "Nylon Couplers" from the brand "Motomaster" in the Automotive Department. They have a translucent turquoise color for their insulation nylon. Got 4 of them in 1 box for $3.99 CAD + tax on 2024 June 7. Don't get the red shrink wrap ones cost $7.99 for 3 pieces at Canadian Tire.
Unfortunately Amazon sells you 200-300 connectors in a kit in 3 sizes for $10-20 CAD, way too many. Or you can get 100 for $20 CAD.
You really should of used heat on those F2 connectors to shrink the connection making it water proof. Saves you from future problems. Anyways, thanks for the video!
I'd also like some silicone or hot glue over the battery terminal connections. Dollar store stuff either way.
I got one of this at a swap sale, I'll order the charger and battery. I hope it works 🤞
Did your batteries come charged? I replaced the batteries and checked the wiring but no go :(
I don’t remember but you should be able to charge them if all the wiring is right.
Got a question, I have a e150 (basically the same thing as the e100 with the wiring). Was wondering if I could swap out the batteries to something else other than lead acid?
What happen to the insolation for batteries tabs? It scooter gets hit hard, the batteries might get shorted and scooter will be on smoke. I would put some cushions for those batteries as well... Those are lead acid batteries. Kind of dodgy repair.
Good eye. I put it back in the scooter, just didn't put that clip in the video.
I wish Paul Rudd was my dad 😞.
Thanks! Just changed out the batteries. It’s like getting a scooter for Christmas all over again.
Awesome!
Appreciate your DIY vid but can’t give high marks cause you 1- allowed the battery terminals to contact across batteries while connecting in series and replacing into scooter cavity (you warned of shorting earlier but didn’t heed own advise. Risk or not, it’s sloppy discipline and those DIYers who dont know any better can create problems for themselves) 2- you didn’t reinstall (on vid) the foam slip pad and battery cross bar (assuming you did off camera but bad form to save a couple seconds of clip) and 3- allowed little lady to operate scooter w/o helmet. Not mine to judge but demonstrating proper caution for vid sake isn’t to much to ask in my opinion. Still, I watched and commented so maybe algorithm still gets a boost.
Shut up
I may take longer since my junior helper will be at school
You should hot glue the connectors or every 2 minutes you'll be taking it apart
It’s not a bad idea but I don’t think you need to. We’ve not had an issue with them coming off. Plus, it’s easier to remove them for winter storage.
Thanks for the instructional video on how to wire the batteries in series. Initially, I did not wire the batteries on my scooter in series and one of the batteries melted down upon charging. Very important to wire the batteries in series!
Thanks so much! Changed the batteries as you instructed and got the old scooter up and running!
That is awesome to hear! Great job!
Forgot the stabilizer bar
Good eye. I did put it back on but just didn’t include it in the video.
Em portugueis
I bought a viro electric scooter with out the charger how can I charge it someone please help me
What voltage does it run off of? 12v? 24? Are there any used chargers on ebay? You can always take the battery(s) out and charge them individually.
@@FrugalRepair how do I do that?
@@armandosalinas1326 Get a 12v charger with a 2amp charging option. Usually there are inexpensive auto battery chargers at your local store that would work fine.
I had a 12 void battery and a caught fire or nearly caught fire when I plugged it in
benissimo
Bull
What battery is this?
There is a link in the video description. It’s an SLA battery. Sealed lead-acid battery.
Jr.Helper forgot the metal bar across the batteries
OMG, this is a very dangerous setup. Two battery terminals are dangerously close or touching each other. There is a perfect short circuit coming at any time. Anyone who follow these exact steps should place a plastic insulator between two batteries or rearrange the batteries so their terminals are away from each other. Guess why there is no power after charging? One of the batteries is shorted out!
There is a plastic cover on the F2 connectors. So if you install them correctly you won’t have any problems.
i like it too
Thanks for the comment!
kingsley amofah
You fucking sick ass pervert.
My ppp scooter 24v fully charged. Wont run. Doing troubleshooting control box does not make a clicking noise unless charger in plug in to scooter? Please help im so lost.
Are you sure there isn’t a connectivity issue? Maybe a loose connection on one of the F2 or F1 connectors.
@@FrugalRepair to really be honest i do not know which connectors that is. Im working with model LBD8.
On the F2 connectors you linked to, do you need the female, or male ones?
Troy Taylor You want the female ones.
Great, thanks. I'm going to try this fix. My son's scooter still charges and the light still lights up showing its on, but it won't move. Does that sound just like too weak of a battery?
Troy Taylor The batteries are most likely the culprit.
What brand wire stripper do you use in this video? Mine stink. Thanks
They are a Gardner Bender LY-2039. I am sure you can find other good wire stripers online if these are not easily available.
I also need to replace my batteries in my E100 where and what kind and how much to get a replacement please comment back soon
I have links in the video description that will answer your questions.
Hey by chance do you know anywhere (in Canada) where I can get some cheap batteries for one of these? I've looked around and can only find each 12V 4.5AH for $40.
Sorry but I don't think I can help much. Have you tried going to a battery chain store and asking them? Or checked at Walmart, they may have some.
FrugalRepair Wow I didn't even think about going to Walmart. It looks like they're only $18 each there. Thanks
What if I get 7AH batteries, what does that mean?
If you only want to change the batteries then you need 24v going to the controller. Usually this is done with (2) 12v batteries wired in series. The AH (Amp-Hour) means how much storage capacity the battery has. If it has a bigger capacity (or AH) then it means the battery is usually a larger size. If you want the batteries to fit inside the chassis properly then you will need the correct size of batteries. In this case, for the e100 scotter, you want (2) 5Ah batteries. (2) 7AH ones wouldn't fit.
You did not secure the batteries with the bar and packing.
Your right, I didn't in the video because I wanted to test the install first. After verifying that the batteries were installed correctly, the bar was put back in and the remaining screws. I'm assuming most people will put the bar and the screws back into place since that would be fairly obvious.
Thanks for the great idea. My scooter is in need of new batteries. I have a question though, can I use (2) 24volt batteries? Please tell me
You won't be able to use 24v batteries without modification to the scooter. Plus, the batteries would likely not fit in the chassis. The charging system/control board and motor are designed for a 24v volt system. Since the batteries are wired in series (2) 24v would get you a 48v output.
The batterie makes a loose sound, did you know what can keep it thingt?
The metal bar is supposed to hold the batteries down. Is yours tight enough? Have you opened it up to take a look and see what the issue may be?
There is also a pad between the metal bar and the batteries make sure you have that in.
where can i buy those batteries.?nothing in my area.(NZ)
Juanito Magyaya I wouldn't know where you can buy them in NZ but look for SLA batteries. Maybe there is a battery store near you?
25$ for both of them
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=razor+e150+batterires&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=Razor+E100+E125+E150+Electric+Scooter+battery&_sacat=0
Where 37211
i think this is my problem when i try and charge the scooter the light on the charger stays green :(
Brian Young Unfortunately, it probably means that you need new batteries. There is a small chance it could be a loose cable, bad charger or a fuse issue. But my guess is the batteries.
I soldered my new ones on
That is definitely one way to do it. I'm guessing they originally soldered them in at the factory because they wanted to minimize the chance that vibration could loosen a connection. Congrats on your repair!
Were did you get them
I bought the batteries and f2 connectors online. I have links to where you can buy them in the video description.
The girl looks constipated but she's really cute 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Can i use an old 24v 2,5amp adapter to charge the e100 with?
I don't see why that would be a problem. Just make sure you are charging the two batteries in series (24v). I'd also want to make sure that the charger has the "brains" to shut off when it is done charger or if there is a problem.
Thank you for the reply. Im gonna give it a go now :D
Great. I should also add that your charger should have the smarts in it to know how to charge the batteries. I'm not sure what kind of old adapter you are using. I charge my batteries with 2 amps with a smart charger and have no issues.
It is a old receipt printer adapter. I tapped into the + and - of the scooter charging port and have not seen smoke or sparks yet :D The wires all seem to stay cool when the charger is plugged in. Funny thing is my E100 looked exactly like yours(pink) but i stripped it on the weekend and lubricated the wheel bearings etc. I then sprayed it Matt black :D
Since it is a printer adapter, I doubt it would have any smarts to it. It probably puts out 60 watts constantly. How will it know when to stop charging the battery?
5-12-19 did everything step by step and it worked for me t y
Awesome, great to hear!
Ran into a problem yesterday....I must not have the connectors crimped dont on the wires hard enouph the power goes in and out now
Josh Culp yeah, that can happen. Good thinking to check the crimping.
I have to pay to watch this video!!
Pretty stupid because he didn't take a photo first, or show how they were wired!... All hands in the way, pretty useless
Heaven
Do I use one batterie of 24 v?
I suppose you could since this is a 24v system. But usually the SLA batteries come in 12v. So you wire two of them in series.
FrugalRepair I wouldn't like use 2 batterie of 12v because it's more expensive than one batterie of 24v
I don't see why that would be an issue. I'm assuming it is an SLA battery. You would want to check the brains in the charger if it is a different (LIPO for example) kind of battery.