Lee…your work is outstanding! I live around a big beautiful lake here in Georgia and I am beginning a boat detail business of my own and I cannot believe my luck in finding your videos at the outset (almost). I took on a 22’ foot TAHOE back in 2020 that had sat outside for 5 years uncovered. It was very challenging for me. After two very long attempts at restoring the gel coat, as well as the purchase of all types of equipment and products…after studying your videos and 2 seasons later, I finally restored the finish of our boat using your methods! I am a true believer and can’t thank you enough for your no-nonsense approach. My only regret….not being able to head to Lake Chelan in the Northwest and get some one-on-one training from you in person. Thanks for all you do!
Hi David. Wow! Thanks for saying all this, I'm honored. I'm glad what I'm doing and saying has had an impact on someone's world. Again, thanks and don't worry about a class. After watching enough of my BS, you'll get the basics and can develop your own ideas from there. One laker to another, Cheers! Lee
If you have a heavily oxidized boat you can mirror finish with just buffer and compound. The thing is, that oxidation will come back much quicker because you didn't fully remove the oxidized clearcoat.
I know you think that. I used to. I don't anymore and have years to show why. There's 300 videos in my Playlist, many are boats we did a year or 2 ago. Besides, who's got time to sand a whole boat!?
I guess what I'd say is that if I only had one shot to make a boat look new, I might consider sanding it then compounding it. As it is, real-world, boaters just want to use their boats. This way I use is quicker, easier to learn and more cost effective for everyone involved if done right. I've had boats look like we just finished with them a year later, black gelcoat in a sun-rich environment. Going further, I'd say that compounding can get all the oxidation out but most people get fooled by the oils in compound and miss 5-10% the oxidation every time. I try not to. I then use top-tier products and try to use them correctly so they last a long time. I maintain the surface so it stays looking good and try to not wait for things to haze up before addressing the issue.
regular maintenance is key once you restore...wax at least every 90 days with a quality lasting wax (specially if gelcoat is colored black ) ...if you own/bought a colored gelcoat boat and it sits outside in the sun/elements and you don't want/expect to maintain it on a regular basis you're in for a $urpri$e....Ceramic coatings on watercraft(specially in salt) is another expensive scam boat owners blindly fall for...
I believe you on the wet sanding part, I never wet sand! Loving your quick change pad and adapter. I have the same set up, got it from sand and fleas! Sales rep had it on special, buy the adapter and get 2 pads free.... Keep up the quality work!!!!
That's a good deal. 3M ised to give you an adapter when you bought 2 quick connect pads, back in the day. Thabks, I try to go for the basics nothing fancy. Lee
I've been working on restoring the gelcoat on my boat recently. The oxidation is really heavy, so I started by using a wool pad and Meguiar's Utra Cut, and it worked just fine, but then I came across the marine/RV oxidation remover and it ended up working much faster. I probably would've tried the products you recommended if I came across your video sooner, but I'm glad I found something that works well anyhow. Thanks for the advice!
Glad you found some relief. Thanks for say'n hi. I think that the techniques shown are more important than the products used but they compliment each other when used properly. Make sure to do a wash with dawn (dish soap/kitchen soap) & water, 70% isopropyl alcohol, white vinagar and water or a window/glass cleaner, to remove the oils left behind after the compounding. Look at the reflection from many angles in good light. If you like it, "wax" it but with a boat wax. The products are less of a factor in this. While I like what I like for reasons I hope most would, #3M can't seem to get products everywhere, even with enough employees to make up an island state's population. Odd, it's like they don't want to see profits soar in this division of their business. Oddly, Meguiar’s is owned by 3M so it seems they just think "this'll do for the masses" or whatever. . Their wool pads are a thing of beauty when grinding on gelcoat I can say that. Those that don't wobble so much that screws come loose from the buffer trying to spin it. There's 300 (videos) or so more, I hope one hits just right. Lee
I actually used to detail high end cars like 24 years ago. I know the drill for the most part. I'm missing my good buffer though. Using a harbor freight model now and it does get the job done but lacks torque for low rpm use. I'll use it until it burns up,. Which most likely won't be long lol. Then maybe look into something better. Thanks for the feedback for sure. And you're definitely correct on the technique approach. Certain lighting I just can't get the right angle to see if I have the right level of polishing. It's actually kind of fun to me to be able to bring dull things back to life. I'll take the suggestion about the wash mix for sure. I am having issues with compound caking mostly due to the heat in the sun of Florida so hopefully that'll take that residue away before polish and wax.
I find, even in heat like we get here and in CA, the trick is, on a paint, compound doesn't get absorbed like with gelcoat. It grows roots as it were. On a car, one might leave borders of unused compound to keep a section seperate or their borders don't get overlapped as much but the compound wipes off. On gelcoat, picture all the particles in the stuff like cards all spread out on the surface face down. Cards from a decks of cards, just billions of them, all facing down. If you make them all flip over the same amount of times before you're done, you win. Each pass, you're "flipping" the cards and on gelcoat, If some don't flip over enough times, they get glazed over and skipped by the buffer. The amount of fluidity had laft the compound but left behind the solids, a clay. The gelcoat soaked it up, the oils/water that lubricates the slurry. Work within this thought process: For a decent section, 2 circles of compound on the pad, one larger and one smaller about as thick as a pencil. Every drop should be manipulated as much as the next until it goes "thin." Then, you won't have that problem. Boats aren't cars and the other way around this is less about finesse and more like a negotiation. Don't worry, you'll win but she'll try everything in the book to mess with you. Lighting: Mirrors work, a bright (over 1,000 lumen) flashlight, spotlights, an led strip..? You would be amazed at the difference a boat will display inside under fluorescent or LED lights as opposed to in the Sun, night and day. Stuff hides in the shadows. On the buffers: I recall the HF ones give off a smell before actually smoking. 🤞 Hope that helps.
The problem is is that you don't actually know if you are removing all the oxidation, since the compound has oils that darken and hide oxidation. And if you don't fully take out all the oxidation then it will just come right back. Wetsanding is the sure way to remove all oxidation and level the gel coat before polishing.
Well, I'd reply with; some (most) people, don't know if they've removed the oxidation because they're easily fooled and "wax" companies lie to them in words and with chemicals. I'm not arguing with you as I've done specific videos showing how oils hide stuff when compounding, what to do about it and how to avoid that trap. That said; my work, against anything you'll find, I stand by my work outlasting it. 200+ videos, many revisiting boats a year, 2 years later and even 3 years on. This process helped build the 2nd largest boat Detailing company in the nation so I'm gonna keep teaching people that Sanding is a waste of time and money for 97% of boats. It's just all most people know or were taught. I was taught the same things, I just didn't stop learning. It's why there's a DeWalt DWP849x available on the market, you're welcome. And now, I pass that kind of knowledge on. If you're stuck spending days on a ski boat and need to charge thousands to do it, imagine how many more happy, loyal and referring customers you would have if you spent less time, cost less money and delivered the same results.. You're welcome again. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Fair enough, and I'm not saying you're wrong because I have no idea how much experience you may or may not have, but when I detail, it's better to be safe than sorry, wetsanding does make it look better than compounding alone. It's better to go too deep than not enough. Gel coat is also for the most part, thick, so sanding a few times shouldn't hurt it. And when you charge accordingly, you will profit, the customer will be happy, and you can walk away knowing you sold a good job that is going to last.
ruclips.net/video/KK5sybLJpPk/видео.html No argument still. If there was a shop, if there was a glycerine additive to keep the water from freezing.. Everything we talked about stands unchallenged. I just was going through my yt stuff and saw this, I chuckled. In the North, sometimes your Summers are short as is time for all the projects on your list for the year. There's a cold one for ya. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgoodyea repeat customer cuz you do half ass work. When I restore gelcoat it goes at least 10plus years b4 I gotta touch it again. So again you’re doing lazy half ass work.
Great video, I do this the same way. you are right, you don't have to wet sand. I do have a question. What speeds did you use on the first stage of spreading the compound, then the second stage of the cutting then the third stage of slower buffing..I am curious. I realized on doing my travel trailer and my motorhome, I had to buff at a higher rate to achieve the cutting I needed. Please let me know, thanks
Hi, thanks. If you have to speed up, try a 3M pad (wool compounding pad) I speed up to show off but it's not something I'd like people to try right out of the gate. It's dangerous and can ruin a surface if not done right. I spread slow as the machine can go and then keeping that speed, I cross-cut and flatten out. Now here, I go full speed (to show the other 2 youtube "experts" that it can be done, swirl-free if done right) You shouldn't have to speed up, friction is not something used for this work, the heat from it that is. If you search my library for "speed" you'll see videos where I compare fast to slow and there's really no noticeable difference in the time taken. Don't go over 1,000 rpm if you can avoid it. 600-800 works, is safe and the finish is easier to get 'right'. Cheers, Lee
Just one word! AMAZING!!!!!! Thank you for the informations~! I am gonna use that on my jetski and see how it does. AHAHHA wet sanding use this and switch to that, and buy this and buy that and then come back and re wet sand bla bla bla bla bla bla BS all day long at the end you have purchased between 500 and 1K worth of creams and pads if you listen to those uuh? and at the end of the day it does not even come close to what you have demonstrated.. Time is a factor- And I like to save mine, the less I spend on buffing and polishing, the better I feel. Really thank you again -
Mask off sections with tape to keep the products where you want them to be and to keep things easier to clean. Glad you like the vids, happy to hear. Good luck!
Absolutely, heavy cut and even Perfect-it will usually take it off. Try some solvents first with a scotvhbrite pad and a scrapper to get most of it off. You'll gum up your pad a little but by the time you've spurred it out a few times, all good.
Thank you so much for sharing this! I’m an overworked, father, and husband, who just wants to get the family boat on the water looking good. I’m not looking to take it to a boat show competition. Thank you again my son and I will be doing this project soon.
Well good luck sir. There's a bit more to it than I show in just this vid however I have 300 more so please sit a spell, grab a well-earned beer or two and just get a feel for this, then try. Hat is off to you finding the time. Lee
Straight to the point, no bs. Thanks for the info man! Only regret is purchasing marine 31 products instead of the 3M products , before seeing this video. Hope it works regardless , this weekend for me🙏🏼 Blessings!
Technique is more important than the products so watch a few of my longer vids to get an idea of the thought process and how things work in real time with the 3M stuff. If it takes longer or (fingers crossed) the same amount of time or just a bit longer, no big deal. Thanks for the kind words. Good luck! Lee
Great video. I am a bit confused on what to buy for my boat. In the video, you're only using the rubbing compound for great results so do I even need the heavy cutting material? Also, how often did you change the wool pad during this project restoring this boat? Thank you.
Hi. That's lots of questions and I'd need to know what your boat looks/feels/tastes like to answer most of them. I have 300+ videos, watch a few more and you'll figure it out. If not, we can talk then. Lee
Yes, basically. It's a slightly different mix of chemicals but works the same. I'd say, if you have any oxidation, a bottle of Heavy Cut and a bottle of Perfect-it Ex Ac would be a good start. Get 2 wool pads and 1 soft nylon (yellow) You can use a pad for 3 months or a week, it all depends on the work being done. When to glip/clean? Search my library for "pads" and see a few videos on that. When to do it depends on the load being put upon the pads. I can do a 30' boat and "clean" my pads 4-8 times but then some days, twice. Watch some of my vids. I'm not trying to be dismissive at all, there's more to this than holding the buffer and moving back and forth. I show all kinds of gelcoat and many different approaches to boats. I can't give good advice unless I know a ton more about a boat and even when I'm looking right at one, I get confused or lost sometimes. Boats hate us and all the "wax" companies know it so they mess with our heads too with their stupid marketing. What I show is how to using 4 basic products and some techniques to go with them, can clean up any boat without sanding or paying thousands every year. Hope that helps. When you get started and stuck, I'm here. I reply. Lee
Screw the haters. That looks fine for a boat that’s going to get towed up and down the road,run through the water,bumped against the dock and sit outdoors in between outings. Yeah,you could wet sand,do a 3 step cut and polish but why ? I know I wouldn’t do the wet sand on my daily driver car like I would a show car.
They changed the formula from Perfect-it to Perfect-it ex ac. I call it finess-it, I'm wrong in the name, sorry but they don't have it look for "Perfect-it ex ac" that's what you want after Heavy Cut. Lee
You have all kinds of stuff in the video description that seems like filler gibberish. So what, exactly, did you use in the video? Was it just one application of Perfect-it EX AC and then a polish after that? What polish did you use? Did you use any of the Finesse-it that you referenced in the video?
That's an old video where I just wanted to show how fast this can take place. No finess-it was used. Watch any video of mine longer than 30 minutes and you'll have all the answers you need. Lee
Hi. My speed is due to 2 decades of running a buffer. I don't suggest you or anyone new to this ever goes above 800 rpm. It's dangerous and can ruin a finish. It's my ego showing off to the "youtube experts" who would never try it. Go slow, it works and takes about the same amount of time. I've done videos showing this. Go slow and be careful around fittings, cables and your face😁. You don't need heat, it's a myth. You aren't doing more by going faster, really. There's a slight benefit but a fast buffer can hurt stuff, quickly if you aren't proficient with one. Sorry, not the answers you were looking for but it's the truth. My crew ran 7 buffers at below 800 rpm for 15 years.. It works just fine. Lee
I have personally seen people with a fast spinning buffer burn the gelcoat, eat decals, break their fingers, destroy a power cord, vhf antenna, satellite dish mounts, knock out a 6'4" footballer when it yo-yo'd up his (over the shoulder) cord, huge mistake. Swirls at a slow speed can be fixed rather easily and quickly as you adjust what you're doing and watching the results manifest before your eyes (bright light is key. Bright like the sun not a shop light on a stand) Fast comes with a balance between the pad, buffer and the person holding/guiding the other two. If you can call out squaredance maneuvering in rhythm, free-style rap or juggle a few different objects at once, speed up a bit when you feel like it but I only see a speed difference benefit when on an edge that's very oxidized or a huge flat panel on a yacht that 3 people are grinding on. There's reasons on the flat I won't go into but specific to acreage of gelcoat so let's go to edges. On a badly oxidized edge, going fast will shine up that spot quicker. It'll also heat it up really quick and so there's a literal second that a detailer has, to decide; "Is it about to melt /burn/turn brown-yellow?" a second and a half, maybe. I've burned 2 boats' gelcoat. Once because I was an idiot and the second one was just the nature of the beast (removing oxidized gunk) If going slow however, you aren't tossing expensive products all over your face and hands like some on the 'tubes' might. You also won't burn the edge of anything, catch anything that violently reacts or causes the buffer to react. I once had my wrist whipped with a steel antenna that my buffer broke free after winding up the spindle of the buffer. Then it broke as I was holding onto the boat with one hand and buffing with the other. I couldn't shut it down for a moment. That left some marks and an education. I made this video and others like it but perhaps I need to make it more prevalent in my discourse to the viewers. Walk, hop jog run backwards, crabwalk, then run, if you feel you need to but not from day 1 please. Lee
Hey. Thanks for the great video. My boat is oxidized about the same as this one. We took an ugly dated decal off the side of the hull and obviously under the decal It’s perfect. If I did this method, do you think it would make the decal disappear? Also, do you ever have issues putting the buttons back on? Thanks
Sometimes the snaps, or the holes they came out of don't seem to match the screws. Use a marine sealant like 3M's 5200 white and put just a dab in the hole, enough to allow just a little bit to mushroom out when the snap in tightened up snug. I think this is what you mean. In taking them out, unless they go back in the same hole, you'll see that some are different thread, length and thickness. Over the years they've been replaced and some holes got bigger. In the decal. 1st time with Super-Duty, Heavy Cut and Perfect-it ex ac, you'll see a difference in the surface where the decal was. 2nd time, less and 3rd time even less. I've been at this for a while and so I dig until the color and the look, all match if I can. I won't get a second chance to impress people. On your own boat, you can play and learn, what works best for your Gelcoat. Every boat is different, all with different histories. What I show is a technique more than anything as I use it with all the steps. There's 200+ more vids I have showing this on all sorts of boats. Watch a few and you'll start to see how it all goes. Thanks for the kind words and the questions. Lee
Can you dumb it down. I have a similarly oxidized boat and plan to tackle that this weekend. I am confused by which of these compounds to use because they all look similar (Super Duty, Perfect-It Heavy, or Perfect-It EX AC). Seems like they are all the same just a little different. I assume use one of these and then follow it with a polish/wax like the Meguiars Flagship and that's it correct? How many pads for a 25 foot boat and which specific pad if I don't have the quick connect adapter?
Hi. You're basically asking for a "how to" for your boat. I'm not there so I can not give you that. Oxidation looking similar and being the same are two different things, trust me. One wool pad, some Heavy Cut followed by Perfect-it ex ac, clean, inspect, wax (nylon or soft pad) Watch a few more videos and you'll get an idea of how it works. Sorry I can't give you specifics but anyone who would is talking out their arse. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I just picked up an older boat that is in need of some work. Pros always make it look easy(that's why they are pros)/ I figured I have more time than money so gotta give it a shot. Thks again
Well, I'm here if you have a question. I try to answer everyone. There's people who've learned this just from watching. It's why I do this, to get people to try this before throwing money away or God forbid, Sanding an entire boat, yuck. Welcome to the party. Lee
I bought an 87 searay 26 foot and i just installed my motor and at first, I was going to vinyl wrap, later this year. Looking at buffing, I want to get started this weekend lol. There’s quite a lot of oxidation but should I do an initial sand or just go this route? I’m not concerned with perfection, just as long as it shines lol
The answer all comes down to time and money. This is the most efficient way I've ever seen oxidation removed from a boat. Quickest, easiest to learn and as far as the shine, sanding or none, the same. Lasting results depend on 3 things ; removing all the oxidation, proper application of a "wax" and proper maintenance (keeping things clean after the "wax" part is done) I've posted about 300 vids, check out a few of the longer ones to get a feel for this they're almost all the same process just different boats and some slight variation on the steps, depending on the boat's needs at the time. Thanks for say'n Hi. Lee
As a detailer for 24 years I can tell you wetsanding will make the finished job look the best, it levels the surface unlike compounding alone that continues to wear away at the surface on a constant level never really flattening the gelcoat.Compounding alone looks great but you will never get a perfectly flat surface.
No, sanding won't make this look any better than being buffed as long as both are done by experts. I do however agree it'll be flatter but who's got the time and on the other side, who's going to pay for that? Not many people want to pay thousands of dollars for a finish that'll fade out in a few seasons if one season when people use the wrong sealant. I'm trying to show people how they can enjoy their boats without spending that kind of time and money, to simplify the resulting process and lower the costs.. What I demonstrate in my videos is the same thing that helped build us into the 2nd largest boat detailing company in the nation, because it made customers happy and gave us the time and money to hire/train and retain good employees and keep growing. Good luck doing that with Wetsanding only. I mean say a 50-100' boat, Wetsanding would cost more than repainting it and that was our bread and butter. I do smaller boats now but the thinking is the same; more happy customers, less cost/effort and a growing business that's easier to train new hires and not worry about them making rookie mistakes for years while sanding wrong. You can make mistakes with a buffer for sure but they're fewer and further apart and for a novice or new boat owner, which would you think they'd pick up and understand easier? Lastly, you know this as a detailer, how many customers could even tell the difference? Most don't know what a swirl is and many with Oxidation in their gelcoat just want "a light wax". They don't know what great looks like so going for a perfect, smooth finish is great to you and I but from 5 feet away, nobody can tell the difference. As long as all the oxidation is removed, you have a clean surface and protect it with a great sealant, the boat will look better than new with both styles, I just don't want to make people go through 18 steps when 3 will work just fine. I freely admit that perfect comes from sanding and then compounding but who wants to do it/pay for that level of perfection on a toy that does not appreciate in value? They're out there but few and far between.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Man I got some presta super cut compound that you suggested, I’ve been working on it now, 2nd weekend, first weekend I used Maguires 69 it did not cut it, so I listened to you, of course i did it again use the super cut, it helped a lot, I’m struggling compared to you, but it’s getting there, Four Winds, 24 foot, waring me out!!
I've never used presta.. 3M only is what I use. #67 is super oily and hides stuff like Menzerna. Try 3M heavy cut and Perfect-it ex ac next (wool pad) if you have swirls, foam pad and perfect-it ex ac. Drake or Simon might use Presta, I have another boat to do and don't waste my time with it. Good luck on your Four Winns.
I used to sell Duffy boats in Seattle, when I was a broker (long time ago in a galaxy far, far away) I'm in Eastern WA. I have some friends in San Diego when it warms up, I am planning a trip that way however, I do these videos to get you guys to see that you can do this. It takes some time to learn but then, you can do your own boat and save all that money that detailers usually "earn". I appreciate the comments but I'm not quite a "jet-set detailer" as a career. If however, you want to provide travel, a decent beer, room and board, I'd be interested
Great work! I just did my 40 ft sailboat that was pretty oxidized. Honestly I didn't think that it was going to shine as much as it did. I am completely sold on the 3M products. My question is, can you do the same to the non-skid? Does it loose it's "gripiness"? Thank you for the in depth instructional video, keep em coming!
I have some videos on and reservations on doing this to nonskid, yes it gets slippery. There are some options. A light pressure wash, scrubbing with an aggressive cleaner to remove Oxidized gelcoat.. I'm glad your boat came out. That was nice to hear. Lee
Anybody use the PoliGlow system? I used Scotch Brite pads on the chalky deck of my sailboat. 5 coats of poliglow and with 1 or 2 coats each season, per recommandations.
Gross and I mean that as one of the population of people who will be asked to remove it someday and because it's so awful, I charge insane prices so I can avoid it. Wost yet, someone bids way too low and they're pride won't let them give up so they stay for 5 times what a normal job would take and not only lose money but also miss out on other jobs. If poli glow is your thing, awesome. It's your boat, your fun, your time. If I caught someone putting it on my boat, there'd be an incident report. If you want a neat idea: strip your boat all the way to bare gelcoat. (follow my steps) use Fireglaze by hand, once a year (a bottle should last you about 2 applications for 21'-35' boats) at less than $40 a bottle.. Cheaper year to year, looks better, better resale value, easier to keep clean and maintain, doesn't yellow, won't peel, actually fairly easy compared to the poli-system (Wash, strip, scrub, apply, apply again) My way, screw the wash/strip phase, compound the nuts out of your boat (better than new) Wash the boat/section you're working on and if "tits", protect it. Keep that finish for years with nothing more than a spray detailer (regularly) or re-apply fireglaze by hand or small machine with an occasional spritz with a "spray wax" (polymers and Si02 varients only) and repeat yearly. You'll never need 5 coats of lacquer/varnish application again. My thoughts, since you asked. I do however love the freedom to do whatever the heck you want with your boat. I'd never use that (pick a word) in my life but I understand the reasons why I see people trying it now and then. As a "detailer" unless I like you or (rarely) your boat, I will (as a mean joke) refer someone (a detailer I don't like) that can help them. I will not touch a boat that's been treated with that product. I'd need to sand and I hate to sand. America, freedom. My best to ya but you'll never get a reflection like you'll see in my videos with a band-aid (poli glow) but you have my respect for putting lots of work into your boat. I can't say that about all boat owners. Cheers to that. All kidding aside, try my suggestion some day. I dare ya to be blown away. You've already shown that you can research, learn and execute what you've learned. Grab a beer and watch about 5-10 hrs of anything I have on RUclips concerning boats and you should be on your way to seeing a different approach might not be so bad. If I'm wrong, I'll fly out and you can teach me how to poli - stuff. Lee
ruclips.net/video/QrF-McBOEHQ/видео.html This video would be a better choice. You can try my stuff/style but aluminum is a whole different beast, like paint is a different beast than gelcoat. Tell him I said Hi. And good luck. Sorry I can't offer you more. It's a fun video of one of my favorite hack detailers doing aluminum. If nothing else, after you stop laughing, he offers some product suggestions. This guy on the other hand is a true pro; ruclips.net/video/pCVj4Ph2jgw/видео.html
Hi mate mine has light scratches in the color would buffing with wool and compound remove most of this? I don’t have oxidized issue as it’s kept inside. Rather not wet sand as it’s all down the side. I’m in Australia👍 love your work especially with that tip with the polymer sealer. Have ordered some to try.
You can try. Heavy cut might be the answer if scratches are bad if lighter than you can feel with the nail of your finger, Perfect-it ex ac can remove them. You'll enjoy the 303 Cheers!
On my Ranger which is a Raspberry metal flake color the back corners on both sides the gel coat is actually starting to get little spider cracks in the gel coat. Would a procedure like this work ? Had a detailed look at it but he said he wasn’t a professional at sanding and he was afraid to work on it possibly make the finish start to turn silver ?
Hi Glenn. I don't know. I'm not near the boat but if it's already that bad, lightly sanding the rear corners and then trying can't hurt. I've only worked on one bass boat, ever. I know that sometimes, clear gelcoat can act like a clearcoat on a car and start to crack at the surface. I'd try sanding past the viable cracks and then try what I do. Wish I could have more to offer.
It would need to be recleared the possibility of sanding through causing silver flake to show through is highly likely and be better off getting it reshot flake work is weird stuff but I've worked on plenty of them
He's got a point. I've seen it vome back with grinding but if it's just too far gone, you're trying to polish a cracked, crazed surface and sometimes, the cracks run all the way deep.
I’ve used this stuff in my buisness it does a great job taking 80% of scratches out wetsanding on the other hand takes %100 of scratches out but wet or dry cost more then perfect it also takes time, here is a good combo perfect it heavy cut plus perfect it ligh polish and farecla UV wax bring out the big shine detailer for 5 years
I'd say in the right hands (15 yrs myself) A Buffer and the right wheel/compound combo can do wonders and you're right, perfect costs money and time. If someone wants perfect, it'd be a combo of both sanding and a wheel but I try to show basics. ruclips.net/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/видео.html (all buffer, no sanding) I try to get all the stuff out of a surface if I can.
ruclips.net/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/видео.html Or ruclips.net/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/видео.html Or ruclips.net/video/LuPPLBwz1Cc/видео.html Some things you can buff, some you can't, oh well. If I can't buff it. I normally know and so I'll suggest a gelcoat repair. Answer your question?
ruclips.net/video/W9_07rdkL-Q/видео.html ruclips.net/video/rmwCNmkJgIE/видео.html It's all gelcoat, it all works the same regardless of the color.. I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
What's your take on DA buffers/polishers? I have a fiberglass cargo van I was trying to bring back to life (17 years worth of oxidation), and there was no compound that was cutting the oxidation so I went to 1500, then 1000 grit paper. I also removed decals and still haven't blended the surface. I'm wondering if the issue is the DA sander-- I was using the Makita. I just ordered a standard Rotary buffer, so I guess I'll find out soon enough if this is the issue. No way I was getting any kind of finish close to what I'm seeing in your video. I was using McGuire's oxidation remover, and than a product called total buff. I have some of the 3M heavy, but seem to me it was even worse. Perhaps not designed for DA sanders though.
Hi. Sorry you're dealing with all that but yes, a DA will take years to do what the same products you're using will on a rotary. I use DA's all the time but only for the last steps. Good luck, go slow. The DA was a toothbrush and now you will be using a chainsaw.
@@Local_Boydidgood I just don't trust myself with a high speed buffer. I've done paint corrections on cars with it with amazing success. We shall see. Take care!
Like I said, it'll be just a bit slower to the results of a rotary and you don't have to go as fast as I do with a rotary, slow work well. Best of luck! Lee
Start with Perfect-it ex ac. If that doesn't work, Heavy Cut. If that doesn't work, Super-Duty. If any work, work back to Perfect-it ex ac, wash, inspect and "wax". Repeat the "wax" step before you see fading or things don't wash off easily.
I used to do body and paint . This hull only has a slight haze to it so I do agree with you on not cutting with wet sanding but I wonder if this boat was 20 years old left outside and had heavy chalk if you would get the same results ?
You mean like this? ruclips.net/video/oPgIk2IyCYw/видео.html I've got vids showing this 2 years later. If you listened to the description, that boat had sat in the desert for about 20 years untouched.
@@Local_Boydidgood No that is a medium stage oxidation . Where you get the heavy's is with Burgundy's and Blacks . The paint pigments the really soak up the UV rays and get very heavy with oxidation. If there was a way to send you a pic I have a Scarab out here in the yard I need to get running that has sat since 2014 I would send you a pic of the back section it has gotten a huge amount of UV on it. Its Burgundy and black the two worst, except silvers
ruclips.net/video/h5seC2AOWE0/видео.html Past this, I'm not going to try and prove what is and isn't heavy or medium oxidation. I don't sand boats. I'm trying to show people that there's another way. After 17 years of this, I'm pretty certain that I never want to wetsand and I'll just keep doing this. You said you did body and paint work, on cars I assume. Colors on boats can make a difference but the gelcoat itself is the final hurdle. Some gelcoat is hard and some is soft, regardless of the color. Nordhaven, older Mastercraft and cobalt's would be "hard" gelcoat whereas Tiara, bayliner and Navigators use softer gelcoat. This is more a factor than the perceived oxidation you can see/feel. Sometimes a boat that's sat for a generation is easier to make shine than one where someone buffed it wrong for a decade and made the gelcoat harder with the wrong pH level chemicals and or the "wax". Thanks for watching though. Lee
Only by highly trained experts. I'd never do this with a car but some would. Using a random orbital buffer and these products generally works on paint.
What would you recommend doing on a boat that had decals on it, and heavy oxidation? I’ve removed the decals so there’s perfect gel coat underneath them. I want to have the whole surface come out even and not have the spots where the decals were to show through. Would you still recommend just buffing, or would you sand at that point?
@@Local_Boydidgood I once done a bay boat that I couldn't completely get right. Problem appeared to be the decals was put on too soon after the gel coat was sprayed. First time running into that problem, boat came to me with the decals removed. Sanding didn't help too much.
I have a bass boat I just scrubbed down with toilet cleaner as I've seen in a lot of videos and it worked great getting rid of mildew and stains I now have a nice white bass boat again :). I'm wanting to seal it as it's older and the gelcoat absorbs stains easily. What's the best/easiest route to seal/wax it? I'm getting it cleaned up to sell n don't wanna have to re de-mildew it again if I can avoid it.
Toilet bowl cleaner isn't great for gelcoat regardless of what's on the youtubes. It will clean a hull but it also breaks down gelcoat and can cause problems later, I've seen the results. Try a "hull cleaner" in the future. It takes grinding to remove the chalkiness so a rubbing compound and a buffer to remove all of that and then you wash the boat and protect it with a good boat wax (not a car wax) I have 300+ videos on just this, grab a beer and have a look, I'm sure you'll pick up the basics and see what you can expect if you try what I do. I have a list of the products that I use in most of my descriptions. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood good to know. It did pull off all the chalky residue and it looks loads better but yeah I was leery with an acid base cleaner. I saw you used that perfect-it but wasn't sure if that was the best thing to use or if you had a higher recommendation for a long lasting sealer.
Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, the liquid stuff. Also 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard or Pro Polish by Shurehold. All are good off the shelf products that I've enjoyed over the years. There's a pic if a black boat on the label.
I have a heavily oxidized bay boat blue in color. I used a Meguiar's oxidation remover with the same Dewalt buffer you have, it kicked on me and busted my lip, felt like Tyson punched me. After the oxidation remover I used the flagship polish by Meguiar's. It was an amazing transformation but the oxidation is starting to show in spots again. If I got the 3M you used do you think that will help my problem? Do I need to strip the wax and start over? The boat detailer I was going to use never followed up with me, so I'm doing it myself. Thanks in advance. Also, do you recommend a clear coat?
On behalf of boat detailers everywhere, sorry. At the same time, that you decided to try it yourself is a bonus you’ll enjoy at the end I hope. Yes. Use a proper compound. While Meguiars is made by 3M. It's not as aggressive or effective as their line of products that I use. You don't need to strip the wax to get into it. The compound will eat through about anything you have on the surface. Oxidation should take about a year to come back if allowed to. Between compounding and "waxing" clean the boat well (soap and water, rubbing alcohol or even window cleaner) to inspect it in bright light, from many angles. It should all look the same to you before you lock it in. Then, keep the finish up by adding a wax touch-up every 3-4 months. Either with any number of spray detailer or actual boat wax applied by hand and removed with a soft buffer pad. There are reasons I use the products I use and not every fancy bottle of stuff, promising me the moon on the label. I believe that if you get some either Heavy Cut or Perfect-it ex ac, a good wool pad and a good wax, you’ll be blown away. (flagship by Meguiars is a great product) Good luck. Happy 4th! P. S. Buffers can be dangerous. I don't think people fear them as much as they deserve to be feared. If you watch enough of my videos, you can pick up on how I treat mine. How much pressure, how I brace myself, like when using a chainsaw, I'm prepared for some hop or bounce but I hardly ever get it. It comes with time and letting Tyson tap you now and then I admit. I have seen a buffer wind up the cord laid over a detailer's neck while he worked. It ate the cord like a yo-yo going up the string and popped him right on the jaw. He fell instantly. So, you might have gotten lucky? Hopefully better experiences ahead. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Buying the 3M products today. One last question, should I wet sand first? Watched a few videos on it but I notice you didn't mention that. You wouldn't believe this transformation on this boat!! Truly amazing, it was neglected for 12 years. I'll try to upload a video when done or message me your email. You were right, this is way more satisfying doing it myself. Chris
I have a boat that I have done this to it and it come back just like I never did this. How do I prevent it coming back in a short time???? Help Basically what do you put on to protect it. Ceramic wax or coating?
Beyond that, this video was more of a demo for the process and product. 1st, make sure to remove all the oxidized gelcoat use bright lights and remove the compound residue with a good cleaner to inspect the surface. Then apply your "wax" and keep it clean. Add more "wax" every year, between cleanings, when you're bored...
spot on...3M is the BEST ...always look at sanding as a LAST resort. There's one "Boat Detailer" on here always talking about sanding , mixing up different off brand/unknown brand compounds/polishes and waxes all into ''one'' , Using pressure washers inside cockpit/control clusters/gauges , wearing metal cuff watches and rings when detailing, not wearing eye pro and says that bleach will destroy gelcoat 🤣🤣🤣 that guy is so full of it lmao....going on 25 years Detailing Watercraft and Aircraft...cheers
Thanks! You get what you pay for in this industry. Sorry to say it but 3m has the best cutting pads out there. You can achieve results with anything, time and effort involved change with your tools.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks a lot I’ve been detailing for a few years but I’m always looking to get better, Been using Maguires diamond cut and one step at 67 ,I think I’m gonna try out some 3m Products ,Love your videos keep up the good work I’ll be watching all of them thanks for answering my question
@@Local_Boydidgood Sorry to bug you again what Speed you keep your buffer at when doing oxidation removal? Seems like you’re going a little slow but it’s cutting the oxidation really well
I like people to go slow. Until you're an expert or really confident in what's going on on the surface between the wheel and the boat, avoid going fast like you might see me do in some vids. Never a bother brother.
There's a little more thought that goes into a topside: planning your path or route, adjusting for smaller sections and avoiding the swirls. It's hard to show anyone while doing it and holding the camera. I'll try in the next few weeks, to get more topside content. Basically, yes, more of the same but with less of an aggressive frame of mind and more finess if that makes sense. You must focus more on what you are doing. For topside work, stay slow and DON'T speed up the buffer, trust me. Watch your cord, don't touch what's already been polished with anything but sealant/wax/polish. Work from top-down & front to back (generally) every moored boat sits differently. Break stuff up into sections and "own the section" don't move on to another part just because you want to try something fun. If you have a cuddy or small runabout, divide the boat into 2 sides. Work the hull first and then the top. On hulls, start up front where your neck and back strain. This way as you get to the stern, you'll be feeling happy that you don't have to strain again up front.
ruclips.net/video/sAnx0ntZjD0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Aw_m9AOUSBc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/FXX1rtmTfV0/видео.html Should give you some ideas on non-flat surfaces. Always go with the lines and flow of the boat. Going perpendicular to either will make a great detail look average at best.
What product do you use? i heard you say finesse it but that bottle doesnt say that on it? What do you use exactly step by step if you dont mind going to order some products thanks!
And I appreciate that. Sorry, I usually mix my compounds to match my boats. That's a level beyond what youtube audiences are ready for so I generally don't show anything but general products for people to buy and try. Perfect-it and finess-it were 2 of my go-to products for over a decade; the names, like boats, all run together sometimes.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks got it ordered. bought a 2003 sea ray srx that is sound mechanically but needs a lot of gel coat work. Thanks for all your shared knowledge! The old decals will be the truth of this detail.
@@Local_Boydidgood I'm getting ready to start my first boat my friend is a painter and won't use anything else lol my boat is pretty rough but I think it will come out of it
1st off, glad you tried "my way" but if just 1,000 grit sanding did the trick, YOU failed "my way." Sorry but that's almost a fact (based on my experience) C'mon buddy. Did you put 10-20 hrs of watching my videos in? There's over 200 you know.. Did you try this on more than one boat? Did you ask me for help or an answer to a question? Did you come for my class? Or, was this just a "I saw a video, half-heartedly tried it, crap results and now I want to pass the blame to my inspiration for even trying it?" Or did you just use whatever was in the garage and some canned courage before you concluded that this process doesn't work? If so, it's ok. That's a start. You need to get a feel for this work, it isn't as easy as paint and it's never the same, boat to boat. You need to be able to know what you're seeing, feeling and achieving but also, what you're dealing with before starting and how to fine tune the approach per boat, per day (they can literally change over night depending on temp/humidity) I've been there too. As an example: I bought the best golf clubs and a really nice driver and a bunch of cool shirts and pants but I can't do what Tiger Woods does. It's weird because I stand like he does at the tee, I swing like he does and the ball just goes like 150 yds.. He's a scam! All that said; I haven't seen more than 2 boats in close to 20 years of doing this that a buffer and compound couldn't fix faster than, cheaper than and have results that match wetsanding over time. So I don't think I'll agree with you that it doesn't work. My guess is that my technique only becomes effective, when you do. When you've practiced and honed your eyes and hands to do the work. Take a unicycle or a yo-yo. Some people just have a way of doing them in ways I could never! Or not without practice and skill building. It's a simple enough toy, either one. Should I claim the yo-yo is broken when I can't get it to "sleep" long enough to walk the dog and go through Jacob's ladder before an overhead wind-up to catch the yo-yo in my back pocket at the end of the trick? No. I just need to trust the process of learning and application and not get frustrated and pouty like a little kid. Describe "my way" and tell me what pads and compounds you used? Did you wash the boat and inspect it in bright lights before "waxing" to make sure you had gotten all the oxidation? What were your steps? Don't just come and spit on my birthday cake and not give some reasons we can all interpret and learn from. You have to imagine, lots of people all use buffers and compound but don't get the results I do. There's a reason. My way isn't just products and tools-based. They help but there's more to it than that. 3 months is great, isn't a benchmark I'd shoot for, a year or two is. I hope you see results like that in the coming months as you admire your work. Lee
Thanks. I don't think I can move product over a surface as fast as a buffer. In limited scenarios, you can polish small sections by hand. It'll take a week but it's possible.
Ouch, you can paint it, re gelcoat it or vinyl wrap it. Depending on what you choose, it can be either expensive or not. Good luck. My skill set was surpassed when I read "wet sand your boat too much" (I was hoping you were joking) but I kept reading and I'm not sure how best to proceed but I know you will find a few options on your local Google machine. 😁 Best of luck. Oh, sell it for a down payment on a new boat and keep it clean and protected from the start and never go through this again. (that's mostly for anyone else, reading these but if it helps..)
It's all in the video. I spent time making it, try watching it all the way through. If you don't get it by the end, I have over 200 others showing basically the same thing. If your boat is exactly like the one I'm doing here in this video, Exactly. Then do exactly what I did, if not, it's not the process for you. The technique is way more important than the steps I outline here. The technique of using compound correctly to reach perfection is most important. In this vid, I'm just saying, you can use heavy-cut and still achieve a gorgeous finish and you don't need Wetsanding. I could have and did use perfect-it, One-handed I'll add and achieved the same results. Watch, don't fast forward and you'll answer some of your own questions.
You'll be fine. Just don't try to force anything to happen, let it happen. The chemicals and wool do all the work. You just hold a buffer. I'm here if you get stuck. Lee
I try to get people to sometimes see the forest for the trees. The other 300 videos I've made, don't have the same musical tastes. Although, considering the garbage people have watched and praised that deal with gelcoat the wrong ways in the past, I don't mind the awful music too much. I wanted it to be dramatic and ugly going in, clearly I nailed that. lol I'm glad you liked the work aspect however. Hope it inspires you to check out some of my more recent videos and they help you get your gelcoat looking right. Lee
I'll edit it someday. I agree. I was not aware of the power of wind noise or the addition of audio to the video. The other 200+, they get better, in my humble opinion. I just watched the whole video and while the first half is quieter, if I turned up my volume, I could still hear everything and once the voice over starts, I just turned the volume down a bit. Making videos isn't my thing but AI am at least more aware of volume issues and the power of the wind.
if your gelcoat is chalky and comes off on your hand when you wipe your hand or finger across it, I got news for you, you better wet sand if you dont want the oxidation to return in a few weeks.
Well for you clearly, and some other people, that's a thing. Luckily for me, I've beaten that mindset long ago and just focus on making smiles and dollars. Dare you to watch this and the next 3 years of the oxidation NOT Returning. 😁 ruclips.net/video/oPgIk2IyCYw/видео.htmlfeature=shared ruclips.net/video/8ZCFpgYbBXo/видео.htmlfeature=shared ruclips.net/video/DE8Q_tDlDTM/видео.htmlfeature=shared Keep sanding though if these haven't convinced you, I hear it's cool, very lucrative oh and inexpensive and super easy to do. Or, try watching any of my 290+ vids on the matter, learn a thing or two and never sand again, ever. Almost 20 years at this and running the 2nd largest boat Detailing company in the nation tells me, you're mistaken. Not your fault, products and technique are key to this. Most don't have a frigg'n clue. So, do you want me to tell you how to run a kayak fishing tour company? I assume that's what we're doing here; you come say some silly garbage about things you know nothing of and then it's my turn right? Here, I'll go : use inflatable inner-tubes instead of kayaks. They're exactly as fun and useful on the water but cheaper and lighter to carry around. Just watch those hooks! (carry some spares) Also, fish love being in a big musical sing-a-long, I watched a documentary from Disney, some fish named Nemo was in it. Try starting up a melody while on the water and soon, you'll be swimming in happy fish. Lee
Finesse-it (on gelcoat) does suck. Perfect-it ex ac however is awesome. I'm sorry you waste your time with whatever you used. Probably used a bad pad too. Since you're the expert, what's better smh-guy?
Wow, you're really helpful. What DO YOU USE THAT'S BETTER? My assumption is, you were never trained on how to use it (3M compounds). So, for 30 years, you've failed your 3M compounds, not the other way around. It's very common but I've seen it for 20 successful years, doing things with 3M compounds I don't see anyone else doing. Is it because I'm special or did I just figure it out unlike most who try this? I just got lucky and for almost 20 years, I've been showing others just how easy and moron-proof this is. Watch a few more of my vids and see if you can do better/faster work. Let me know what your secret is because in my experience (and yes, I've tried just about every compound available) nothing I've found, is better than 3M for consistency, effectiveness or predictable results. Obviously like with my crew, you did like 200 boats a year (average length 45') for 15 years so you would know what efficient use of time and products because you made a profit right? I assume you've got some secret you've been hiding... I'll be excited to lean about. I'll ask a third time and give you an opportunity to lay down some truth; what works for you then? What's better? I'm curious what you learned in 30 years of this, that actually works or if I'm right and you failed, just like most boat detailers, to use the products the right way. I'll be waiting for the revelation you bless us with. Lee
Lee…your work is outstanding! I live around a big beautiful lake here in Georgia and I am beginning a boat detail business of my own and I cannot believe my luck in finding your videos at the outset (almost). I took on a 22’ foot TAHOE back in 2020 that had sat outside for 5 years uncovered. It was very challenging for me. After two very long attempts at restoring the gel coat, as well as the purchase of all types of equipment and products…after studying your videos and 2 seasons later, I finally restored the finish of our boat using your methods! I am a true believer and can’t thank you enough for your no-nonsense approach. My only regret….not being able to head to Lake Chelan in the Northwest and get some one-on-one training from you in person. Thanks for all you do!
Hi David. Wow! Thanks for saying all this, I'm honored. I'm glad what I'm doing and saying has had an impact on someone's world.
Again, thanks and don't worry about a class. After watching enough of my BS, you'll get the basics and can develop your own ideas from there.
One laker to another, Cheers!
Lee
If you have a heavily oxidized boat you can mirror finish with just buffer and compound. The thing is, that oxidation will come back much quicker because you didn't fully remove the oxidized clearcoat.
I know you think that. I used to. I don't anymore and have years to show why. There's 300 videos in my Playlist, many are boats we did a year or 2 ago.
Besides, who's got time to sand a whole boat!?
@@Local_Boydidgood gelcoat** mistyped clearcoat, lol. Ok I'll check them out
I guess what I'd say is that if I only had one shot to make a boat look new, I might consider sanding it then compounding it. As it is, real-world, boaters just want to use their boats.
This way I use is quicker, easier to learn and more cost effective for everyone involved if done right. I've had boats look like we just finished with them a year later, black gelcoat in a sun-rich environment.
Going further, I'd say that compounding can get all the oxidation out but most people get fooled by the oils in compound and miss 5-10% the oxidation every time. I try not to. I then use top-tier products and try to use them correctly so they last a long time. I maintain the surface so it stays looking good and try to not wait for things to haze up before addressing the issue.
regular maintenance is key once you restore...wax at least every 90 days with a quality lasting wax (specially if gelcoat is colored black ) ...if you own/bought a colored gelcoat boat and it sits outside in the sun/elements and you don't want/expect to maintain it on a regular basis you're in for a $urpri$e....Ceramic coatings on watercraft(specially in salt) is another expensive scam boat owners blindly fall for...
Amen brother, preach!
I believe you on the wet sanding part, I never wet sand! Loving your quick change pad and adapter. I have the same set up, got it from sand and fleas! Sales rep had it on special, buy the adapter and get 2 pads free....
Keep up the quality work!!!!
That's a good deal. 3M ised to give you an adapter when you bought 2 quick connect pads, back in the day.
Thabks, I try to go for the basics nothing fancy.
Lee
I've been working on restoring the gelcoat on my boat recently. The oxidation is really heavy, so I started by using a wool pad and Meguiar's Utra Cut, and it worked just fine, but then I came across the marine/RV oxidation remover and it ended up working much faster. I probably would've tried the products you recommended if I came across your video sooner, but I'm glad I found something that works well anyhow. Thanks for the advice!
Glad you found some relief. Thanks for say'n hi.
I think that the techniques shown are more important than the products used but they compliment each other when used properly.
Make sure to do a wash with dawn (dish soap/kitchen soap) & water, 70% isopropyl alcohol, white vinagar and water or a window/glass cleaner, to remove the oils left behind after the compounding. Look at the reflection from many angles in good light. If you like it, "wax" it but with a boat wax.
The products are less of a factor in this. While I like what I like for reasons I hope most would, #3M can't seem to get products everywhere, even with enough employees to make up an island state's population. Odd, it's like they don't want to see profits soar in this division of their business.
Oddly, Meguiar’s is owned by 3M so it seems they just think "this'll do for the masses" or whatever.
. Their wool pads are a thing of beauty when grinding on gelcoat I can say that. Those that don't wobble so much that screws come loose from the buffer trying to spin it.
There's 300 (videos) or so more, I hope one hits just right.
Lee
I actually used to detail high end cars like 24 years ago. I know the drill for the most part. I'm missing my good buffer though. Using a harbor freight model now and it does get the job done but lacks torque for low rpm use. I'll use it until it burns up,. Which most likely won't be long lol. Then maybe look into something better. Thanks for the feedback for sure. And you're definitely correct on the technique approach. Certain lighting I just can't get the right angle to see if I have the right level of polishing. It's actually kind of fun to me to be able to bring dull things back to life. I'll take the suggestion about the wash mix for sure. I am having issues with compound caking mostly due to the heat in the sun of Florida so hopefully that'll take that residue away before polish and wax.
I find, even in heat like we get here and in CA, the trick is, on a paint, compound doesn't get absorbed like with gelcoat. It grows roots as it were. On a car, one might leave borders of unused compound to keep a section seperate or their borders don't get overlapped as much but the compound wipes off.
On gelcoat, picture all the particles in the stuff like cards all spread out on the surface face down. Cards from a decks of cards, just billions of them, all facing down. If you make them all flip over the same amount of times before you're done, you win. Each pass, you're "flipping" the cards and on gelcoat, If some don't flip over enough times, they get glazed over and skipped by the buffer. The amount of fluidity had laft the compound but left behind the solids, a clay. The gelcoat soaked it up, the oils/water that lubricates the slurry.
Work within this thought process:
For a decent section, 2 circles of compound on the pad, one larger and one smaller about as thick as a pencil. Every drop should be manipulated as much as the next until it goes "thin." Then, you won't have that problem.
Boats aren't cars and the other way around this is less about finesse and more like a negotiation. Don't worry, you'll win but she'll try everything in the book to mess with you.
Lighting:
Mirrors work, a bright (over 1,000 lumen) flashlight, spotlights, an led strip..? You would be amazed at the difference a boat will display inside under fluorescent or LED lights as opposed to in the Sun, night and day. Stuff hides in the shadows.
On the buffers:
I recall the HF ones give off a smell before actually smoking. 🤞
Hope that helps.
Much appreciated. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Cool.
The problem is is that you don't actually know if you are removing all the oxidation, since the compound has oils that darken and hide oxidation. And if you don't fully take out all the oxidation then it will just come right back. Wetsanding is the sure way to remove all oxidation and level the gel coat before polishing.
Well, I'd reply with; some (most) people, don't know if they've removed the oxidation because they're easily fooled and "wax" companies lie to them in words and with chemicals. I'm not arguing with you as I've done specific videos showing how oils hide stuff when compounding, what to do about it and how to avoid that trap. That said; my work, against anything you'll find, I stand by my work outlasting it.
200+ videos, many revisiting boats a year, 2 years later and even 3 years on.
This process helped build the 2nd largest boat Detailing company in the nation so I'm gonna keep teaching people that Sanding is a waste of time and money for 97% of boats. It's just all most people know or were taught. I was taught the same things, I just didn't stop learning. It's why there's a DeWalt DWP849x available on the market, you're welcome. And now, I pass that kind of knowledge on.
If you're stuck spending days on a ski boat and need to charge thousands to do it, imagine how many more happy, loyal and referring customers you would have if you spent less time, cost less money and delivered the same results.. You're welcome again.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Fair enough, and I'm not saying you're wrong because I have no idea how much experience you may or may not have, but when I detail, it's better to be safe than sorry, wetsanding does make it look better than compounding alone. It's better to go too deep than not enough. Gel coat is also for the most part, thick, so sanding a few times shouldn't hurt it. And when you charge accordingly, you will profit, the customer will be happy, and you can walk away knowing you sold a good job that is going to last.
Fair take. I'll drink to our differing views. Cheers.
Lee
ruclips.net/video/KK5sybLJpPk/видео.html
No argument still. If there was a shop, if there was a glycerine additive to keep the water from freezing.. Everything we talked about stands unchallenged. I just was going through my yt stuff and saw this, I chuckled. In the North, sometimes your Summers are short as is time for all the projects on your list for the year.
There's a cold one for ya.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgoodyea repeat customer cuz you do half ass work. When I restore gelcoat it goes at least 10plus years b4 I gotta touch it again. So again you’re doing lazy half ass work.
Thanks for all your instructives vidéos. I'm juste starting my business in France and i lurn a lot from you.
Salut. Merci. Je te souhaite bonne chance. Si vous avez des questions à l'avenir, je suis là.
Lee
Great video.. I'm glad I found this, cause i wet sanded mine partially. and need to, well start over.. Now I know I dont have to wet sand...THANKS
Hope she comes out nice.
Great video, I do this the same way. you are right, you don't have to wet sand. I do have a question. What speeds did you use on the first stage of spreading the compound, then the second stage of the cutting then the third stage of slower buffing..I am curious. I realized on doing my travel trailer and my motorhome, I had to buff at a higher rate to achieve the cutting I needed. Please let me know, thanks
Hi, thanks.
If you have to speed up, try a 3M pad (wool compounding pad)
I speed up to show off but it's not something I'd like people to try right out of the gate. It's dangerous and can ruin a surface if not done right.
I spread slow as the machine can go and then keeping that speed, I cross-cut and flatten out. Now here, I go full speed (to show the other 2 youtube "experts" that it can be done, swirl-free if done right)
You shouldn't have to speed up, friction is not something used for this work, the heat from it that is.
If you search my library for "speed" you'll see videos where I compare fast to slow and there's really no noticeable difference in the time taken.
Don't go over 1,000 rpm if you can avoid it. 600-800 works, is safe and the finish is easier to get 'right'.
Cheers,
Lee
Just one word! AMAZING!!!!!! Thank you for the informations~! I am gonna use that on my jetski and see how it does. AHAHHA wet sanding use this and switch to that, and buy this and buy that and then come back and re wet sand bla bla bla bla bla bla BS all day long at the end you have purchased between 500 and 1K worth of creams and pads if you listen to those uuh? and at the end of the day it does not even come close to what you have demonstrated.. Time is a factor- And I like to save mine, the less I spend on buffing and polishing, the better I feel. Really thank you again -
Mask off sections with tape to keep the products where you want them to be and to keep things easier to clean. Glad you like the vids, happy to hear. Good luck!
Nice job on the video. Very informative!
Well thanks!
Lee
Can you use 3m super duty to remove vinyl adhesive residue
Absolutely, heavy cut and even Perfect-it will usually take it off. Try some solvents first with a scotvhbrite pad and a scrapper to get most of it off.
You'll gum up your pad a little but by the time you've spurred it out a few times, all good.
Thank you so much for sharing this! I’m an overworked, father, and husband, who just wants to get the family boat on the water looking good. I’m not looking to take it to a boat show competition. Thank you again my son and I will be doing this project soon.
Well good luck sir. There's a bit more to it than I show in just this vid however I have 300 more so please sit a spell, grab a well-earned beer or two and just get a feel for this, then try.
Hat is off to you finding the time.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee!! I will👍🏼
Cheers!
Straight to the point, no bs.
Thanks for the info man!
Only regret is purchasing marine 31 products instead of the 3M products , before seeing this video.
Hope it works regardless , this weekend for me🙏🏼
Blessings!
Technique is more important than the products so watch a few of my longer vids to get an idea of the thought process and how things work in real time with the 3M stuff. If it takes longer or (fingers crossed) the same amount of time or just a bit longer, no big deal.
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck!
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I’m on it! Thanks !
🤣👍🏼
Great video. I am a bit confused on what to buy for my boat. In the video, you're only using the rubbing compound for great results so do I even need the heavy cutting material? Also, how often did you change the wool pad during this project restoring this boat? Thank you.
Hi. That's lots of questions and I'd need to know what your boat looks/feels/tastes like to answer most of them.
I have 300+ videos, watch a few more and you'll figure it out.
If not, we can talk then.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the quick reply. Did 3M change 06085 to 36060? I Can't find 06085 on Amazon in quarts.
Yes, basically. It's a slightly different mix of chemicals but works the same.
I'd say, if you have any oxidation, a bottle of Heavy Cut and a bottle of Perfect-it Ex Ac would be a good start.
Get 2 wool pads and 1 soft nylon (yellow)
You can use a pad for 3 months or a week, it all depends on the work being done.
When to glip/clean? Search my library for "pads" and see a few videos on that. When to do it depends on the load being put upon the pads. I can do a 30' boat and "clean" my pads 4-8 times but then some days, twice.
Watch some of my vids. I'm not trying to be dismissive at all, there's more to this than holding the buffer and moving back and forth. I show all kinds of gelcoat and many different approaches to boats. I can't give good advice unless I know a ton more about a boat and even when I'm looking right at one, I get confused or lost sometimes. Boats hate us and all the "wax" companies know it so they mess with our heads too with their stupid marketing.
What I show is how to using 4 basic products and some techniques to go with them, can clean up any boat without sanding or paying thousands every year.
Hope that helps. When you get started and stuck, I'm here. I reply.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you very much.
Any time.
Screw the haters.
That looks fine for a boat that’s going to get towed up and down the road,run through the water,bumped against the dock and sit outdoors in between outings.
Yeah,you could wet sand,do a 3 step cut and polish but why ?
I know I wouldn’t do the wet sand on my daily driver car like I would a show car.
There's a time and place for everything.
I can't find 06085, has the catalog # changed or is there something comparable?
They changed the formula from Perfect-it to Perfect-it ex ac. I call it finess-it, I'm wrong in the name, sorry but they don't have it look for "Perfect-it ex ac" that's what you want after Heavy Cut.
Lee
You have all kinds of stuff in the video description that seems like filler gibberish. So what, exactly, did you use in the video? Was it just one application of Perfect-it EX AC and then a polish after that? What polish did you use? Did you use any of the Finesse-it that you referenced in the video?
That's an old video where I just wanted to show how fast this can take place.
No finess-it was used.
Watch any video of mine longer than 30 minutes and you'll have all the answers you need.
Lee
What RPM is slow and just a bit faster please? That is my only issue. TYIA
600-800 rpm. Stay slow until you're super confident in your buffing and then up a little, if you need it but in reality, you don't. Slow works.
ruclips.net/video/ky-qHYzJlo4/видео.html
This should help.
Hi. My speed is due to 2 decades of running a buffer. I don't suggest you or anyone new to this ever goes above 800 rpm. It's dangerous and can ruin a finish. It's my ego showing off to the "youtube experts" who would never try it.
Go slow, it works and takes about the same amount of time. I've done videos showing this.
Go slow and be careful around fittings, cables and your face😁.
You don't need heat, it's a myth. You aren't doing more by going faster, really. There's a slight benefit but a fast buffer can hurt stuff, quickly if you aren't proficient with one.
Sorry, not the answers you were looking for but it's the truth. My crew ran 7 buffers at below 800 rpm for 15 years.. It works just fine.
Lee
I have personally seen people with a fast spinning buffer burn the gelcoat, eat decals, break their fingers, destroy a power cord, vhf antenna, satellite dish mounts, knock out a 6'4" footballer when it yo-yo'd up his (over the shoulder) cord, huge mistake. Swirls at a slow speed can be fixed rather easily and quickly as you adjust what you're doing and watching the results manifest before your eyes (bright light is key. Bright like the sun not a shop light on a stand)
Fast comes with a balance between the pad, buffer and the person holding/guiding the other two.
If you can call out squaredance maneuvering in rhythm, free-style rap or juggle a few different objects at once, speed up a bit when you feel like it but I only see a speed difference benefit when on an edge that's very oxidized or a huge flat panel on a yacht that 3 people are grinding on. There's reasons on the flat I won't go into but specific to acreage of gelcoat so let's go to edges. On a badly oxidized edge, going fast will shine up that spot quicker. It'll also heat it up really quick and so there's a literal second that a detailer has, to decide; "Is it about to melt /burn/turn brown-yellow?" a second and a half, maybe. I've burned 2 boats' gelcoat. Once because I was an idiot and the second one was just the nature of the beast (removing oxidized gunk) If going slow however, you aren't tossing expensive products all over your face and hands like some on the 'tubes' might. You also won't burn the edge of anything, catch anything that violently reacts or causes the buffer to react.
I once had my wrist whipped with a steel antenna that my buffer broke free after winding up the spindle of the buffer. Then it broke as I was holding onto the boat with one hand and buffing with the other. I couldn't shut it down for a moment. That left some marks and an education.
I made this video and others like it but perhaps I need to make it more prevalent in my discourse to the viewers.
Walk, hop jog run backwards, crabwalk, then run, if you feel you need to but not from day 1 please.
Lee
Wet sanding is very useful for localised RDS stuff. It take off a lot quickly and can easily be refined when yiu are compounding.
I agree.
Sweet, a Ski Supreme in the background.😎😎
I'm sure there's a video of it being buffed in my library, somewhere.
Hey.
Thanks for the great video. My boat is oxidized about the same as this one. We took an ugly dated decal off the side of the hull and obviously under the decal It’s perfect. If I did this method, do you think it would make the decal disappear? Also, do you ever have issues putting the buttons back on?
Thanks
Sometimes the snaps, or the holes they came out of don't seem to match the screws. Use a marine sealant like 3M's 5200 white and put just a dab in the hole, enough to allow just a little bit to mushroom out when the snap in tightened up snug. I think this is what you mean. In taking them out, unless they go back in the same hole, you'll see that some are different thread, length and thickness. Over the years they've been replaced and some holes got bigger.
In the decal. 1st time with Super-Duty, Heavy Cut and Perfect-it ex ac, you'll see a difference in the surface where the decal was. 2nd time, less and 3rd time even less.
I've been at this for a while and so I dig until the color and the look, all match if I can. I won't get a second chance to impress people. On your own boat, you can play and learn, what works best for your Gelcoat. Every boat is different, all with different histories.
What I show is a technique more than anything as I use it with all the steps. There's 200+ more vids I have showing this on all sorts of boats. Watch a few and you'll start to see how it all goes.
Thanks for the kind words and the questions.
Lee
Can you dumb it down. I have a similarly oxidized boat and plan to tackle that this weekend. I am confused by which of these compounds to use because they all look similar (Super Duty, Perfect-It Heavy, or Perfect-It EX AC). Seems like they are all the same just a little different. I assume use one of these and then follow it with a polish/wax like the Meguiars Flagship and that's it correct? How many pads for a 25 foot boat and which specific pad if I don't have the quick connect adapter?
Hi.
You're basically asking for a "how to" for your boat. I'm not there so I can not give you that. Oxidation looking similar and being the same are two different things, trust me.
One wool pad, some Heavy Cut followed by Perfect-it ex ac, clean, inspect, wax (nylon or soft pad)
Watch a few more videos and you'll get an idea of how it works. Sorry I can't give you specifics but anyone who would is talking out their arse.
Lee
Wow!!!
Great job
Thanks George. There's a few more in my library.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I just picked up an older boat that is in need of some work. Pros always make it look easy(that's why they are pros)/ I figured I have more time than money so gotta give it a shot.
Thks again
Well, I'm here if you have a question. I try to answer everyone. There's people who've learned this just from watching. It's why I do this, to get people to try this before throwing money away or God forbid, Sanding an entire boat, yuck.
Welcome to the party.
Lee
Hi Lee. Love your videos. Getting ready to do my Beneteau Antares. What brand are the buffing wheels you use ? Thanks 🙏
Hi, I appreciate the comment. Everything is listed in the description, the basics of what I use that is.
Lee
I bought an 87 searay 26 foot and i just installed my motor and at first, I was going to vinyl wrap, later this year. Looking at buffing, I want to get started this weekend lol. There’s quite a lot of oxidation but should I do an initial sand or just go this route? I’m not concerned with perfection, just as long as it shines lol
The answer all comes down to time and money. This is the most efficient way I've ever seen oxidation removed from a boat. Quickest, easiest to learn and as far as the shine, sanding or none, the same. Lasting results depend on 3 things ; removing all the oxidation, proper application of a "wax" and proper maintenance (keeping things clean after the "wax" part is done)
I've posted about 300 vids, check out a few of the longer ones to get a feel for this they're almost all the same process just different boats and some slight variation on the steps, depending on the boat's needs at the time.
Thanks for say'n Hi.
Lee
I use this same product I run a mobile detailing company and do a lot of boats one step process.
Yup, as long as you wash the boat before applying your "wax", pretty good alternative to sandpaper In my book and our bottom line.
@@Local_Boydidgood Still learning 5th season doing boats and Rvs.
I'm on my 20th. Never wetsanded a boat in my life. Keep kill'n it!
As a detailer for 24 years I can tell you wetsanding will make the finished job look the best, it levels the surface unlike compounding alone that continues to wear away at the surface on a constant level never really flattening the gelcoat.Compounding alone looks great but you will never get a perfectly flat surface.
No, sanding won't make this look any better than being buffed as long as both are done by experts. I do however agree it'll be flatter but who's got the time and on the other side, who's going to pay for that? Not many people want to pay thousands of dollars for a finish that'll fade out in a few seasons if one season when people use the wrong sealant. I'm trying to show people how they can enjoy their boats without spending that kind of time and money, to simplify the resulting process and lower the costs..
What I demonstrate in my videos is the same thing that helped build us into the 2nd largest boat detailing company in the nation, because it made customers happy and gave us the time and money to hire/train and retain good employees and keep growing. Good luck doing that with Wetsanding only.
I mean say a 50-100' boat, Wetsanding would cost more than repainting it and that was our bread and butter. I do smaller boats now but the thinking is the same; more happy customers, less cost/effort and a growing business that's easier to train new hires and not worry about them making rookie mistakes for years while sanding wrong. You can make mistakes with a buffer for sure but they're fewer and further apart and for a novice or new boat owner, which would you think they'd pick up and understand easier?
Lastly, you know this as a detailer, how many customers could even tell the difference? Most don't know what a swirl is and many with Oxidation in their gelcoat just want "a light wax". They don't know what great looks like so going for a perfect, smooth finish is great to you and I but from 5 feet away, nobody can tell the difference.
As long as all the oxidation is removed, you have a clean surface and protect it with a great sealant, the boat will look better than new with both styles, I just don't want to make people go through 18 steps when 3 will work just fine.
I freely admit that perfect comes from sanding and then compounding but who wants to do it/pay for that level of perfection on a toy that does not appreciate in value? They're out there but few and far between.
@@Local_Boydidgood What sealant would you recommend?
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
2
2?
Man I got some presta super cut compound that you suggested, I’ve been working on it now, 2nd weekend, first weekend I used Maguires 69 it did not cut it, so I listened to you, of course i did it again use the super cut, it helped a lot, I’m struggling compared to you, but it’s getting there, Four Winds, 24 foot, waring me out!!
I've never used presta.. 3M only is what I use. #67 is super oily and hides stuff like Menzerna.
Try 3M heavy cut and Perfect-it ex ac next (wool pad) if you have swirls, foam pad and perfect-it ex ac.
Drake or Simon might use Presta, I have another boat to do and don't waste my time with it.
Good luck on your Four Winns.
@@Local_Boydidgood I will try the 3M next, thanks for the video.
Should work better. Make sure you use a 3M wool compounding pad, nothing cuts better.
Does it work for red board aswell?
Pick a color. Out of my 200+ videos, find a color you think matches and, yes.
What speed are you running the buffer
Go slow. Safe and slow. I'm showing off.
Great video, where are you located? I have a 21' Duffy electric that I'd like to get done in Naples, Long Beach CA.
I used to sell Duffy boats in Seattle, when I was a broker (long time ago in a galaxy far, far away)
I'm in Eastern WA.
I have some friends in San Diego when it warms up, I am planning a trip that way however, I do these videos to get you guys to see that you can do this. It takes some time to learn but then, you can do your own boat and save all that money that detailers usually "earn".
I appreciate the comments but I'm not quite a "jet-set detailer" as a career.
If however, you want to provide travel, a decent beer, room and board, I'd be interested
Great work! I just did my 40 ft sailboat that was pretty oxidized. Honestly I didn't think that it was going to shine as much as it did. I am completely sold on the 3M products. My question is, can you do the same to the non-skid? Does it loose it's "gripiness"? Thank you for the in depth instructional video, keep em coming!
I have some videos on and reservations on doing this to nonskid, yes it gets slippery. There are some options.
A light pressure wash, scrubbing with an aggressive cleaner to remove Oxidized gelcoat..
I'm glad your boat came out. That was nice to hear.
Lee
Anybody use the PoliGlow system?
I used Scotch Brite pads on the chalky deck of my sailboat. 5 coats of poliglow and with 1 or 2 coats each season, per recommandations.
Gross and I mean that as one of the population of people who will be asked to remove it someday and because it's so awful, I charge insane prices so I can avoid it.
Wost yet, someone bids way too low and they're pride won't let them give up so they stay for 5 times what a normal job would take and not only lose money but also miss out on other jobs.
If poli glow is your thing, awesome. It's your boat, your fun, your time. If I caught someone putting it on my boat, there'd be an incident report.
If you want a neat idea: strip your boat all the way to bare gelcoat. (follow my steps) use Fireglaze by hand, once a year (a bottle should last you about 2 applications for 21'-35' boats) at less than $40 a bottle.. Cheaper year to year, looks better, better resale value, easier to keep clean and maintain, doesn't yellow, won't peel, actually fairly easy compared to the poli-system (Wash, strip, scrub, apply, apply again)
My way, screw the wash/strip phase, compound the nuts out of your boat (better than new) Wash the boat/section you're working on and if "tits", protect it.
Keep that finish for years with nothing more than a spray detailer (regularly) or re-apply fireglaze by hand or small machine with an occasional spritz with a "spray wax" (polymers and Si02 varients only) and repeat yearly. You'll never need 5 coats of lacquer/varnish application again.
My thoughts, since you asked.
I do however love the freedom to do whatever the heck you want with your boat. I'd never use that (pick a word) in my life but I understand the reasons why I see people trying it now and then.
As a "detailer" unless I like you or (rarely) your boat, I will (as a mean joke) refer someone (a detailer I don't like) that can help them. I will not touch a boat that's been treated with that product. I'd need to sand and I hate to sand.
America, freedom. My best to ya but you'll never get a reflection like you'll see in my videos with a band-aid (poli glow) but you have my respect for putting lots of work into your boat. I can't say that about all boat owners. Cheers to that.
All kidding aside, try my suggestion some day. I dare ya to be blown away. You've already shown that you can research, learn and execute what you've learned. Grab a beer and watch about 5-10 hrs of anything I have on RUclips concerning boats and you should be on your way to seeing a different approach might not be so bad. If I'm wrong, I'll fly out and you can teach me how to poli - stuff.
Lee
Hey man. Would this work on an aluminum boat also.
ruclips.net/video/QrF-McBOEHQ/видео.html
This video would be a better choice. You can try my stuff/style but aluminum is a whole different beast, like paint is a different beast than gelcoat.
Tell him I said Hi. And good luck. Sorry I can't offer you more.
It's a fun video of one of my favorite hack detailers doing aluminum. If nothing else, after you stop laughing, he offers some product suggestions.
This guy on the other hand is a true pro;
ruclips.net/video/pCVj4Ph2jgw/видео.html
Will this get rid of scratches?
ruclips.net/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/видео.html
Hi mate mine has light scratches in the color would buffing with wool and compound remove most of this? I don’t have oxidized issue as it’s kept inside. Rather not wet sand as it’s all down the side. I’m in Australia👍 love your work especially with that tip with the polymer sealer. Have ordered some to try.
You can try. Heavy cut might be the answer if scratches are bad if lighter than you can feel with the nail of your finger, Perfect-it ex ac can remove them.
You'll enjoy the 303
Cheers!
On my Ranger which is a Raspberry metal flake color the back corners on both sides the gel coat is actually starting to get little spider cracks in the gel coat. Would a procedure like this work ? Had a detailed look at it but he said he wasn’t a professional at sanding and he was afraid to work on it possibly make the finish start to turn silver ?
Hi Glenn. I don't know. I'm not near the boat but if it's already that bad, lightly sanding the rear corners and then trying can't hurt.
I've only worked on one bass boat, ever. I know that sometimes, clear gelcoat can act like a clearcoat on a car and start to crack at the surface.
I'd try sanding past the viable cracks and then try what I do.
Wish I could have more to offer.
It would need to be recleared the possibility of sanding through causing silver flake to show through is highly likely and be better off getting it reshot flake work is weird stuff but I've worked on plenty of them
He's got a point. I've seen it vome back with grinding but if it's just too far gone, you're trying to polish a cracked, crazed surface and sometimes, the cracks run all the way deep.
I’ve used this stuff in my buisness it does a great job taking 80% of scratches out wetsanding on the other hand takes %100 of scratches out but wet or dry cost more then perfect it also takes time, here is a good combo perfect it heavy cut plus perfect it ligh polish and farecla UV wax bring out the big shine detailer for 5 years
I'd say in the right hands (15 yrs myself)
A Buffer and the right wheel/compound combo can do wonders and you're right, perfect costs money and time. If someone wants perfect, it'd be a combo of both sanding and a wheel but I try to show basics.
ruclips.net/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/видео.html (all buffer, no sanding)
I try to get all the stuff out of a surface if I can.
what about scratches? Can never seem to get them completely out without wet sanding
ruclips.net/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/видео.html
Or
ruclips.net/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/видео.html
Or
ruclips.net/video/LuPPLBwz1Cc/видео.html
Some things you can buff, some you can't, oh well. If I can't buff it. I normally know and so I'll suggest a gelcoat repair.
Answer your question?
How does this work on white? I have a small boat that is heavily oxidized and looking at products now. And what pad is that? Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/W9_07rdkL-Q/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rmwCNmkJgIE/видео.html
It's all gelcoat, it all works the same regardless of the color..
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
What's your take on DA buffers/polishers? I have a fiberglass cargo van I was trying to bring back to life (17 years worth of oxidation), and there was no compound that was cutting the oxidation so I went to 1500, then 1000 grit paper. I also removed decals and still haven't blended the surface. I'm wondering if the issue is the DA sander-- I was using the Makita. I just ordered a standard Rotary buffer, so I guess I'll find out soon enough if this is the issue. No way I was getting any kind of finish close to what I'm seeing in your video. I was using McGuire's oxidation remover, and than a product called total buff. I have some of the 3M heavy, but seem to me it was even worse. Perhaps not designed for DA sanders though.
Hi. Sorry you're dealing with all that but yes, a DA will take years to do what the same products you're using will on a rotary.
I use DA's all the time but only for the last steps.
Good luck, go slow. The DA was a toothbrush and now you will be using a chainsaw.
Many thanks!
Anytime
Would this work with a Cyclo buffer?
Not as well or as quickly. Cyclos are best for paint correction or after using a rotary buffer.
@@Local_Boydidgood well, that's all I got so we will see how it turns out tomorrow when my new pads show up. Got the Heavy, Light, and the Wax.
Best of luck man. They're cool tools. I hope I'm wrong about their effectiveness.
@@Local_Boydidgood I just don't trust myself with a high speed buffer. I've done paint corrections on cars with it with amazing success. We shall see. Take care!
Like I said, it'll be just a bit slower to the results of a rotary and you don't have to go as fast as I do with a rotary, slow work well.
Best of luck!
Lee
How do I know which one to use? The Perfect-it, the Perfect-it EX AC, the Perfect it AC or just the Heavy compound?
Start with Perfect-it ex ac. If that doesn't work, Heavy Cut. If that doesn't work, Super-Duty. If any work, work back to Perfect-it ex ac, wash, inspect and "wax". Repeat the "wax" step before you see fading or things don't wash off easily.
I used to do body and paint . This hull only has a slight haze to it so I do agree with you on not cutting with wet sanding but I wonder if this boat was 20 years old left outside and had heavy chalk if you would get the same results ?
You mean like this?
ruclips.net/video/oPgIk2IyCYw/видео.html
I've got vids showing this 2 years later.
If you listened to the description, that boat had sat in the desert for about 20 years untouched.
@@Local_Boydidgood No that is a medium stage oxidation . Where you get the heavy's is with Burgundy's and Blacks . The paint pigments the really soak up the UV rays and get very heavy with oxidation. If there was a way to send you a pic I have a Scarab out here in the yard I need to get running that has sat since 2014 I would send you a pic of the back section it has gotten a huge amount of UV on it. Its Burgundy and black the two worst, except silvers
ruclips.net/video/h5seC2AOWE0/видео.html
Past this, I'm not going to try and prove what is and isn't heavy or medium oxidation. I don't sand boats. I'm trying to show people that there's another way. After 17 years of this, I'm pretty certain that I never want to wetsand and I'll just keep doing this.
You said you did body and paint work, on cars I assume. Colors on boats can make a difference but the gelcoat itself is the final hurdle. Some gelcoat is hard and some is soft, regardless of the color. Nordhaven, older Mastercraft and cobalt's would be "hard" gelcoat whereas Tiara, bayliner and Navigators use softer gelcoat. This is more a factor than the perceived oxidation you can see/feel. Sometimes a boat that's sat for a generation is easier to make shine than one where someone buffed it wrong for a decade and made the gelcoat harder with the wrong pH level chemicals and or the "wax".
Thanks for watching though.
Lee
That same method is used on cars to am I right
Only by highly trained experts. I'd never do this with a car but some would.
Using a random orbital buffer and these products generally works on paint.
What would you recommend doing on a boat that had decals on it, and heavy oxidation? I’ve removed the decals so there’s perfect gel coat underneath them. I want to have the whole surface come out even and not have the spots where the decals were to show through. Would you still recommend just buffing, or would you sand at that point?
Super Duty will fix most things but if you absolutely want it done right, sand it smooth and flat then do what I do. You'll be straight.
Awesome, thanks man. I’ll give it a try this weekend. I appreciate all the time you take to make these videos. They’re a great help.
Gracias. I'm happy to be of some help. Thanks man!
@@Local_Boydidgood I once done a bay boat that I couldn't completely get right.
Problem appeared to be the decals was put on too soon after the gel coat was sprayed. First time running into that problem, boat came to me with the decals removed. Sanding didn't help too much.
Sometimes, vinyl wrap or a new coat of gelvoat/paint is required sadly. Boats... Anything can happen, they hate a detailer. Lol
I have a bass boat I just scrubbed down with toilet cleaner as I've seen in a lot of videos and it worked great getting rid of mildew and stains I now have a nice white bass boat again :). I'm wanting to seal it as it's older and the gelcoat absorbs stains easily. What's the best/easiest route to seal/wax it? I'm getting it cleaned up to sell n don't wanna have to re de-mildew it again if I can avoid it.
Toilet bowl cleaner isn't great for gelcoat regardless of what's on the youtubes. It will clean a hull but it also breaks down gelcoat and can cause problems later, I've seen the results. Try a "hull cleaner" in the future.
It takes grinding to remove the chalkiness so a rubbing compound and a buffer to remove all of that and then you wash the boat and protect it with a good boat wax (not a car wax)
I have 300+ videos on just this, grab a beer and have a look, I'm sure you'll pick up the basics and see what you can expect if you try what I do.
I have a list of the products that I use in most of my descriptions.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood good to know. It did pull off all the chalky residue and it looks loads better but yeah I was leery with an acid base cleaner. I saw you used that perfect-it but wasn't sure if that was the best thing to use or if you had a higher recommendation for a long lasting sealer.
Perfect-it is not a sealer, just a compound. You then wash the boat and "wax" it.
Can you specify which polish or meguiars wax you are using? There is a ton of similar meguiars products. Is it the premium marine wax? Thanks
Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, the liquid stuff. Also 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard or Pro Polish by Shurehold. All are good off the shelf products that I've enjoyed over the years.
There's a pic if a black boat on the label.
@@Local_Boydidgood Awesome, and then you used a 7" (3M) polishing pad with that? I really appreciate your quick response!
Yup. 3m double-sided wool pad either for the spindle nut adapter or the quick connect spindle adapter.
I have a heavily oxidized bay boat blue in color. I used a Meguiar's oxidation remover with the same Dewalt buffer you have, it kicked on me and busted my lip, felt like Tyson punched me. After the oxidation remover I used the flagship polish by Meguiar's. It was an amazing transformation but the oxidation is starting to show in spots again. If I got the 3M you used do you think that will help my problem? Do I need to strip the wax and start over?
The boat detailer I was going to use never followed up with me, so I'm doing it myself. Thanks in advance. Also, do you recommend a clear coat?
On behalf of boat detailers everywhere, sorry. At the same time, that you decided to try it yourself is a bonus you’ll enjoy at the end I hope.
Yes. Use a proper compound. While Meguiars is made by 3M. It's not as aggressive or effective as their line of products that I use.
You don't need to strip the wax to get into it. The compound will eat through about anything you have on the surface.
Oxidation should take about a year to come back if allowed to. Between compounding and "waxing" clean the boat well (soap and water, rubbing alcohol or even window cleaner) to inspect it in bright light, from many angles. It should all look the same to you before you lock it in.
Then, keep the finish up by adding a wax touch-up every 3-4 months. Either with any number of spray detailer or actual boat wax applied by hand and removed with a soft buffer pad.
There are reasons I use the products I use and not every fancy bottle of stuff, promising me the moon on the label. I believe that if you get some either Heavy Cut or Perfect-it ex ac, a good wool pad and a good wax, you’ll be blown away. (flagship by Meguiars is a great product)
Good luck. Happy 4th!
P. S. Buffers can be dangerous. I don't think people fear them as much as they deserve to be feared. If you watch enough of my videos, you can pick up on how I treat mine. How much pressure, how I brace myself, like when using a chainsaw, I'm prepared for some hop or bounce but I hardly ever get it. It comes with time and letting Tyson tap you now and then I admit. I have seen a buffer wind up the cord laid over a detailer's neck while he worked. It ate the cord like a yo-yo going up the string and popped him right on the jaw. He fell instantly. So, you might have gotten lucky? Hopefully better experiences ahead.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Your thoughtful reply is much appreciated!
Any time. Good luck!
@@Local_Boydidgood Buying the 3M products today. One last question, should I wet sand first? Watched a few videos on it but I notice you didn't mention that.
You wouldn't believe this transformation on this boat!! Truly amazing, it was neglected for 12 years. I'll try to upload a video when done or message me your email. You were right, this is way more satisfying doing it myself.
Chris
Lee, forgive me, I'm an idiot, I didn't read the title to your video, LMAO.... sent you PayPal kicker!! What a dummy I am.
I have a boat that I have done this to it and it come back just like I never did this. How do I prevent it coming back in a short time???? Help
Basically what do you put on to protect it. Ceramic wax or coating?
ruclips.net/video/DiBRceJ6dIs/видео.html
To answer your 1st question.
ruclips.net/video/pAjzP85HYdY/видео.html
More of that.
Beyond that, this video was more of a demo for the process and product.
1st, make sure to remove all the oxidized gelcoat use bright lights and remove the compound residue with a good cleaner to inspect the surface. Then apply your "wax" and keep it clean. Add more "wax" every year, between cleanings, when you're bored...
could you send me link to more videos please
Just click on my name or the icon of the glossy black and white boat.
ruclips.net/user/Plattus1000
spot on...3M is the BEST ...always look at sanding as a LAST resort. There's one "Boat Detailer" on here always talking about sanding , mixing up different off brand/unknown brand compounds/polishes and waxes all into ''one'' , Using pressure washers inside cockpit/control clusters/gauges , wearing metal cuff watches and rings when detailing, not wearing eye pro and says that bleach will destroy gelcoat 🤣🤣🤣 that guy is so full of it lmao....going on 25 years Detailing Watercraft and Aircraft...cheers
I see you, I feel you. Cheers!
Lee
Nice videos Can I use a cheap wool pad or do I have to buy one of those $50 ones?
Thanks! You get what you pay for in this industry. Sorry to say it but 3m has the best cutting pads out there. You can achieve results with anything, time and effort involved change with your tools.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks a lot I’ve been detailing for a few years but I’m always looking to get better, Been using Maguires diamond cut and one step at 67 ,I think I’m gonna try out some 3m Products ,Love your videos keep up the good work I’ll be watching all of them thanks for answering my question
Any time brother. The wool 3m uses is just better. You'll like Perfect-it Ex AC.
@@Local_Boydidgood Sorry to bug you again what Speed you keep your buffer at when doing oxidation removal? Seems like you’re going a little slow but it’s cutting the oxidation really well
I like people to go slow. Until you're an expert or really confident in what's going on on the surface between the wheel and the boat, avoid going fast like you might see me do in some vids.
Never a bother brother.
Wishing for a vid on doing the top side. Just more of the same techniques for the side of the boat?
There's a little more thought that goes into a topside: planning your path or route, adjusting for smaller sections and avoiding the swirls.
It's hard to show anyone while doing it and holding the camera. I'll try in the next few weeks, to get more topside content.
Basically, yes, more of the same but with less of an aggressive frame of mind and more finess if that makes sense. You must focus more on what you are doing. For topside work, stay slow and DON'T speed up the buffer, trust me. Watch your cord, don't touch what's already been polished with anything but sealant/wax/polish. Work from top-down & front to back (generally) every moored boat sits differently.
Break stuff up into sections and "own the section" don't move on to another part just because you want to try something fun. If you have a cuddy or small runabout, divide the boat into 2 sides. Work the hull first and then the top. On hulls, start up front where your neck and back strain. This way as you get to the stern, you'll be feeling happy that you don't have to strain again up front.
ruclips.net/video/sAnx0ntZjD0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Aw_m9AOUSBc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/FXX1rtmTfV0/видео.html
Should give you some ideas on non-flat surfaces.
Always go with the lines and flow of the boat. Going perpendicular to either will make a great detail look average at best.
Did you get anything from them?
What product do you use? i heard you say finesse it but that bottle doesnt say that on it? What do you use exactly step by step if you dont mind going to order some products thanks!
Super duty by 3M
Heavy cut by 3m
Perfect-it Ex Ac by 3m
Flagship by Meguiar's (3M)
@@Local_Boydidgood man thank you so much very much appreciate it iam going to tell people about you thanks again
And I appreciate that.
Sorry, I usually mix my compounds to match my boats. That's a level beyond what youtube audiences are ready for so I generally don't show anything but general products for people to buy and try.
Perfect-it and finess-it were 2 of my go-to products for over a decade; the names, like boats, all run together sometimes.
@@Local_Boydidgood oh ok wellnthanks again for your great info!
Anytime
what did you use to put the snap studs back on with?
You can't easily (so I don't remove/replace riveted snaps) on these, 3M's 5200 white sealant/adhesive and a screwdriver.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks got it ordered. bought a 2003 sea ray srx that is sound mechanically but needs a lot of gel coat work. Thanks for all your shared knowledge! The old decals will be the truth of this detail.
Best of luck! I'll be here if you get stuck.
I love that you use 3m it's the only choice
Seems to work well. As long as you have a good wheel amazingly well.
@@Local_Boydidgood I'm getting ready to start my first boat my friend is a painter and won't use anything else lol my boat is pretty rough but I think it will come out of it
I'll drink a beer in your hokor and hope things go well. I'll be here if you get stuck.
i tried your way... the fade came back in 2 weeks. 1000 grit wet sand. has not come back and its been 3 months
1st off, glad you tried "my way" but if just 1,000 grit sanding did the trick, YOU failed "my way." Sorry but that's almost a fact (based on my experience)
C'mon buddy. Did you put 10-20 hrs of watching my videos in? There's over 200 you know.. Did you try this on more than one boat? Did you ask me for help or an answer to a question? Did you come for my class? Or, was this just a "I saw a video, half-heartedly tried it, crap results and now I want to pass the blame to my inspiration for even trying it?" Or did you just use whatever was in the garage and some canned courage before you concluded that this process doesn't work? If so, it's ok. That's a start. You need to get a feel for this work, it isn't as easy as paint and it's never the same, boat to boat. You need to be able to know what you're seeing, feeling and achieving but also, what you're dealing with before starting and how to fine tune the approach per boat, per day (they can literally change over night depending on temp/humidity)
I've been there too. As an example: I bought the best golf clubs and a really nice driver and a bunch of cool shirts and pants but I can't do what Tiger Woods does. It's weird because I stand like he does at the tee, I swing like he does and the ball just goes like 150 yds.. He's a scam!
All that said; I haven't seen more than 2 boats in close to 20 years of doing this that a buffer and compound couldn't fix faster than, cheaper than and have results that match wetsanding over time. So I don't think I'll agree with you that it doesn't work. My guess is that my technique only becomes effective, when you do. When you've practiced and honed your eyes and hands to do the work.
Take a unicycle or a yo-yo. Some people just have a way of doing them in ways I could never! Or not without practice and skill building. It's a simple enough toy, either one. Should I claim the yo-yo is broken when I can't get it to "sleep" long enough to walk the dog and go through Jacob's ladder before an overhead wind-up to catch the yo-yo in my back pocket at the end of the trick? No. I just need to trust the process of learning and application and not get frustrated and pouty like a little kid.
Describe "my way" and tell me what pads and compounds you used? Did you wash the boat and inspect it in bright lights before "waxing" to make sure you had gotten all the oxidation? What were your steps? Don't just come and spit on my birthday cake and not give some reasons we can all interpret and learn from.
You have to imagine, lots of people all use buffers and compound but don't get the results I do. There's a reason. My way isn't just products and tools-based. They help but there's more to it than that.
3 months is great, isn't a benchmark I'd shoot for, a year or two is. I hope you see results like that in the coming months as you admire your work.
Lee
Crickets.. OK, I tried. Thanks for playing.
Lee
This may be a stupid question but could you do this by hand without a buffer? Great video by the way
Thanks. I don't think I can move product over a surface as fast as a buffer. In limited scenarios, you can polish small sections by hand. It'll take a week but it's possible.
What if you wet sand your boat too much I think that happened to me and if so what can you do about it?
Ouch, you can paint it, re gelcoat it or vinyl wrap it. Depending on what you choose, it can be either expensive or not.
Good luck. My skill set was surpassed when I read "wet sand your boat too much" (I was hoping you were joking) but I kept reading and I'm not sure how best to proceed but I know you will find a few options on your local Google machine. 😁
Best of luck. Oh, sell it for a down payment on a new boat and keep it clean and protected from the start and never go through this again.
(that's mostly for anyone else, reading these but if it helps..)
What’s that process
Watch ANY vid I have that is over 6 minutes long, should give you an idea.
I might not understand your question. I show exactly what I do, in this exact video. That's the process.
@@Local_Boydidgood so your buff with 3m heavy then waxing.
It's all in the video. I spent time making it, try watching it all the way through. If you don't get it by the end, I have over 200 others showing basically the same thing.
If your boat is exactly like the one I'm doing here in this video, Exactly. Then do exactly what I did, if not, it's not the process for you.
The technique is way more important than the steps I outline here. The technique of using compound correctly to reach perfection is most important.
In this vid, I'm just saying, you can use heavy-cut and still achieve a gorgeous finish and you don't need Wetsanding. I could have and did use perfect-it, One-handed I'll add and achieved the same results.
Watch, don't fast forward and you'll answer some of your own questions.
If you're having a hard time finding 3M 06085 rubbing compound, it's because 3M has changed it to 36060.
Awesome. Thanks 3M!
Thanks.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you! I'm about to go try this out on my boat. First time detailing.
You'll be fine. Just don't try to force anything to happen, let it happen. The chemicals and wool do all the work. You just hold a buffer.
I'm here if you get stuck.
Lee
TAKE ALL THE CHROME AND BRACKETS, TRIM AND WHAT ELSE TO CLEAN AND BUFF. TAPE OFF OTHER AREAS
Are you telling me or yelling that at me? I did remove stuff. @ 6:11, you're sure to see that.
Would be so much better with no music. Can hardly hear you.
I'm not too exciting, but I can see your point. I've been better since.
Lee
Everyone who knows knows when to wet sand and when to just compound and when to Awlgrip.
In almost 20 years, only 2 Boats I (we) were asked to "shine up" couldn't be brought back with just compound.
Nice video, but pleeease get rid of the goofy techno music!! Uggh!!😢
I try to get people to sometimes see the forest for the trees. The other 300 videos I've made, don't have the same musical tastes. Although, considering the garbage people have watched and praised that deal with gelcoat the wrong ways in the past, I don't mind the awful music too much. I wanted it to be dramatic and ugly going in, clearly I nailed that. lol
I'm glad you liked the work aspect however. Hope it inspires you to check out some of my more recent videos and they help you get your gelcoat looking right.
Lee
would have been a hundred times better if you could actually hear what you were saying.
I'll edit it someday. I agree. I was not aware of the power of wind noise or the addition of audio to the video. The other 200+, they get better, in my humble opinion.
I just watched the whole video and while the first half is quieter, if I turned up my volume, I could still hear everything and once the voice over starts, I just turned the volume down a bit.
Making videos isn't my thing but AI am at least more aware of volume issues and the power of the wind.
if your gelcoat is chalky and comes off on your hand when you wipe your hand or finger across it, I got news for you, you better wet sand if you dont want the oxidation to return in a few weeks.
Well for you clearly, and some other people, that's a thing. Luckily for me, I've beaten that mindset long ago and just focus on making smiles and dollars.
Dare you to watch this and the next 3 years of the oxidation NOT Returning. 😁
ruclips.net/video/oPgIk2IyCYw/видео.htmlfeature=shared
ruclips.net/video/8ZCFpgYbBXo/видео.htmlfeature=shared
ruclips.net/video/DE8Q_tDlDTM/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Keep sanding though if these haven't convinced you, I hear it's cool, very lucrative oh and inexpensive and super easy to do. Or, try watching any of my 290+ vids on the matter, learn a thing or two and never sand again, ever. Almost 20 years at this and running the 2nd largest boat Detailing company in the nation tells me, you're mistaken. Not your fault, products and technique are key to this. Most don't have a frigg'n clue.
So, do you want me to tell you how to run a kayak fishing tour company? I assume that's what we're doing here; you come say some silly garbage about things you know nothing of and then it's my turn right?
Here, I'll go : use inflatable inner-tubes instead of kayaks. They're exactly as fun and useful on the water but cheaper and lighter to carry around. Just watch those hooks! (carry some spares) Also, fish love being in a big musical sing-a-long, I watched a documentary from Disney, some fish named Nemo was in it. Try starting up a melody while on the water and soon, you'll be swimming in happy fish.
Lee
Nothing huh? I see that a bunch. Enjoy the slower way!
Lee
Smh finess it sucks. Typical overpriced 3M product.
Finesse-it (on gelcoat) does suck. Perfect-it ex ac however is awesome. I'm sorry you waste your time with whatever you used.
Probably used a bad pad too.
Since you're the expert, what's better smh-guy?
Over 30 years of doing this and any 3M product is garbage. THAT is the waste of time. Sorry you haven't figured it out yet
Wow, you're really helpful. What DO YOU USE THAT'S BETTER?
My assumption is, you were never trained on how to use it (3M compounds). So, for 30 years, you've failed your 3M compounds, not the other way around.
It's very common but I've seen it for 20 successful years, doing things with 3M compounds I don't see anyone else doing. Is it because I'm special or did I just figure it out unlike most who try this? I just got lucky and for almost 20 years, I've been showing others just how easy and moron-proof this is. Watch a few more of my vids and see if you can do better/faster work. Let me know what your secret is because in my experience (and yes, I've tried just about every compound available) nothing I've found, is better than 3M for consistency, effectiveness or predictable results.
Obviously like with my crew, you did like 200 boats a year (average length 45') for 15 years so you would know what efficient use of time and products because you made a profit right? I assume you've got some secret you've been hiding... I'll be excited to lean about.
I'll ask a third time and give you an opportunity to lay down some truth; what works for you then? What's better?
I'm curious what you learned in 30 years of this, that actually works or if I'm right and you failed, just like most boat detailers, to use the products the right way.
I'll be waiting for the revelation you bless us with.
Lee
Crickets.. Typical.
Still nothing. Surprise.