Lock Testing For Informational Purposes I misspeak on the Civivi Qubit, its not the Altus, its the Qubit that fails Subscribe & become a part of the family LIKE & COMMENT to support the channel/video
Everytime i see a knife video with the host having a bandage on their finger...we dont KNOW what happened, but we are pretty sure....STAY CRUSHIN IT BUDDY...👊
Great video - thanks for doing this! When I was a teenager a half-serrated Gerber backlock failed on me due to an accidental spine whack. It got stuck in a piece of wood, and when I finally managed to pull it loose it flew out and hit a different branch. I had a perfect dotted line cut into my index finger for the rest of the summer.
thanks for the information. since doing all these lock tests ive had dozens upon dozens of people tell me stories on how theirs failed in one way or another. althought there is still people out here saying how this doesnt happen or how its not a plausible test. thanks brother
Great Video! This is why I always tell everyone to pay attention to what happens when you have a proper grip and the lock gives out... That's why I like folders with nice size forward finger choils or extended blade tangs. When a folder has this feature, if the lock gives out and you have a proper grip, you won't get your digits cut. To me, because, I have been badly cut by an accidental lock failure, when I accidentally hit the spine of my Liner-Lock, Benchmade AFCK, Titanium Liner-Lock, failed during a Fishing Trip. So, this is so ething I always pay attention to. So many modern folders have weak locks that are likely to fail when spine whacked. This is something that is important to pay attention to. Because, most of the Folders with the best blade steels, often have weaker lock types. I feel it's important to find one's that if the lock fails it won't chop up your fingers... Great Video! :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Agreed on all of this. I also like a full choil and strong locks. A lot of locks have become fidget based. They are getting better at making fidgety strong locks but some still have work to do. Nothing wrong with them to mess with but as a user work knife I want a strong reliable lock for sure
Id like to add, the benchmade mini adamas has this issue as well. I used a small, thing grind stone to scratch the locking surface which fixed the issue. Now my mini adamas will take spine wacks and battoning through wood with no problem, not that you should use it for that.
This was very enlightening. After watching this at work I went home and immediately tested my knives. Surprisingly, they all passed. Would be cool to start comprising a list. Gerber - Paraframe CJRB - Briar Sencut - Watauga Ontario - RAT1 Honey Badger - Large Claw Kershaw - CQC11K Kizer - Mini Paragon Kizer - Begleiter 2 / Tanto I was not easy on them by any means either. I was whacking them pretty hard. Even the smaller knives.
@@GBall_Vision awesome. It blew my mind to see some big “beefy” looking knives. And some big name brands fail. I guess it shows geometry is everything. If the little Begleiter can take it. Anything should be able to.
I appreciate these spine whack tests, and I understand multiple whacks to test different areas (force towards tip, closer to tang, etc). I wonder how necessary multiple whacks in same spot are, though, as you'll normally only bang it once in a slip or accidental motion. I doubt I'll accidentally slam into something 17 times, you know?? Lol thanks again!
The multiple whacks are definitely important. Not many knives are going to fail every single time, so what we’re really trying to test is more like the PROBABILITY of failure. As in, “this knife may fail but only very occasionally” or “this knife fails more than half of the time”.
Correct,. or this knife will pass regardless what we do to it (AD10) 😂 there's a lot of variables and not a lot of specifics ya no. Every knife could be a varying degree and different. I think the main course of concern would be an entire line of the same model failing IE Vosteed Raccoon V1. That was a massive issue across the board. There's a lot involved to consider
Thank you for doing these Test for us! I had 2 knives failing on me. 1 liner Lock and 1 Böker backlock. I was checking the Böker for up and down Bladeplay and it failed. What a shame. The Liner Lock failed on me when I cut heavy sticking stuff and i tried to push it out for a new cut and when I pushed it closed on me. The sticki stuff was holding the blade and with enough force it came out and closed on me. So thank you for doing that for us. Support and greetings from Austria, Europe
Its great to see a reasonable spinewhack test for a possible real world situation. i hate when people use the spine as a bat and say its shit and not to buy it bc it failed.
many of these knives can be strengthened with simple minute adjustments to the lock faces, be it sanding, lining with pencil lead, or bending lock bars.
Whenever I go somewhere shady where guns are illegal to carry, I either have a cold steel or spyderco with me. Fixed & a couple folders. I don’t trust many liner/frame locks.
So I quickly tested 5 of my knives and here are the results and I tried everything from light taps to smacking the hell out of them: Hogue Ritter large (axis lock): pass Sencut Crowley (button lock): pass Civivi Vision FG (super lock): fail when hit at the tip with medium force Demko AD20.5 (shark lock): fail with extreme force at middle of hole Demko AD20S (shark lock): pass, I dont think I hit anyone harder than that (knocked chips out of the wood). I wanted to try the big brother after the small one failed at a silly level; maybe it is geometry on the smaller lock, maybe it is because the small blade is dlc coated. The biggest shock was how easy the Vision FG failed when hit softly toward the tip of the blade. Hope this helps!
Good on you to spearhead spine whacking videos. I never considered it until now, since well-known knife reviewers & yourself brought it to attention. I have only recently spine whack my knives, and my result on ZT 0562, new version MagnaCut, failed and I had cut my knuckle. Next time I better position hand properly. But, it ironic that Hinderer design tough ZT model lock fail… Go figure. My new EDC is QC Waypoint LC, MagnaCut, love that’s it super water resistant but fail too… Guess go back to reliable Spyderco Compression-Lock PM2S!! lol
Through all of this stuff one thing I've realized is what we all kind of new all along, cold steel and spyderco best function in the game no question. Glad your here brother 🤜💥
This is a bit like watching someone sneak up on a sleeping bear to see if they can touch it and get away unharmed. Good tests tho! I know it’s unlikely to be a problem in most knife usage, but I would rather not have a knife that folds in this kind of testing. Thanks for doing it!
precisely, its not common or an everyday thing but it can happen. strictly for information and safety for my community to know about. thanks for watching brother
I love that original Civivi button lock Elementum because it locks closed. In my experience/opinion, it's far more likely for a folding knife to accidently open than accidently close. I'd love to see you do a drop test with these same knives while they're closed, and see how many of them land open! 😂🙌🍻
Hey Gweg I don't know what's up with the complainers. I appreciate you doing this kind of testing. A lock should hold the blade open against all reasonable force. Naturally all will fail if enough force is applied. If a lock won't pass this you are better off with a slip joint. That is if you don't collect em just for looks.
Ever had your knife get stuck in material where you have to force the knife back and forth to get it out? I have. This test shows which locks may fail in that situation.
Dang, surprised Veloce failed so easily. I have hit knives like this on accident and had a failure before. Not good to see. Luckily the flipper tab helps protect fingers, as well as being in finger choil
I had a benchmade bugout that would slip due to tolerances in manufacturing. I had to take a dremmel and polish the back of the spine for the axis lock to fully engage without me pushing the axis into place after flipping the knife open. After that I never had that problem again
No problem, although I should say, benchmade is charging us enough of a premium that if your knife fails like this and you don't feel comfortable fixing it yourself, send it back to benchmade to fix it.@@GBall_Vision
I will put a sheet together, I have a lot of viewer info and my own to compile. I will get it together and put something in the community tab when I get it done
Obviously uncommon situation but lots of ways you can imagine it happening. One no one mentions is if you nick your left hand and instinctively pull the knife back quickly into something else. You hit the back of the knife on something and now both hands are cut.
@@GBall_VisionExactly. It's called an accident for a reason. Knifemaker's job is to account for these eventualities. At scale even a small problem could impact dozens or hundreds of people over time.
I posted on your older video. i needed to let you know that my Vero Engineering synapse GEN 3, just had lock failure without any whacks. i looked up posts on this because this is an expensive knife that was well cared for. i just opened it and there is no more lock at all.
Any stabbing/thrusting or unconventional use of a knife like prying or any other plethora of potential abstract movements is exactly why a strong locking mechanism is crucial. I would rather have the extra protection and never need it then not have it.
I test every knife i get no matter the size style lock etc. I give good taps on my palm. Less likely to damage and comforts my sense of security. Seems to be an eveb ground. But don't worry G the cjrb hectare does need to break in. Mine was slipping but not failing. Then i tested it harder on piece of wood and it failed a couple times. Opened and closed a few 100 more times then retested it and i cant get to fail at all. Any more force needed to get it to fail would just be unjustifiable in use lol
Thanks for the info/input brother, I'm going to continue breaking in/testing/diagnosing for quite some time. I'm going to break my relative and voodoo out to try and figure them out too. Might do that on camera as well
@@GBall_Vision I absolutely think a good cleaning and tweaking of the lockbar will fix those 2. Especially the voodoo. I don't have one but Reate knows lockface geometry. And bestech is right there on the relative.
@@Seth45Dn I'm hoping so brother - those 2 put a nail in my heart for sure 😂 I'm hoping to reconcile it somehow I haven't said anything to any designer or OEM yet anyways
@@GBall_Vision yeah. Look on the lock face of the lock bar it should only be making contact towards the front if it's locking up to far back close to the pivot it'll cause that blade rock. Wine was doing the same thing yours was doing even after a long break in. I lighty sanded just where it was showing wear on the lock face close to the pivot. It didn't take much but it fixed it and that was a least 3 yrs ago still locks up like a rock today
@@GBall_Vision and i meant to say the lock face on the titanium lock bar not the blade. The Ti is much easier to sand down but you probably alreay know that. The further you can get it to lock up from the pivot the better
@@lukecrafford6544 thanks brother! I will be trying that tomorrow, what did you use in order to send it? Sand paper? What grit ? I'm a carpenter so I have pretty much whatever or I should
@@GBall_Vision think I started with 150 nothing to course then I went straight to something like 1200 lol. It don't take much at all the spot I needed to sand was 1/8 of inch maybe less. I put sharpie on the face of lockbar cycled the action a few times so i could see exactly where the lock up was landing. Took apart and sanded lighty just the back half where it was locking up close to the pivot (not the whole lock face). Tried to explain best i could hope this helps
Oh wow! i never would have predicted a cross bar lock failing, i sure hope its few and far between along with yours! were you surprised when the lock on your hogue failed? i sure as shit was and i dont even own one!! thats crazy. i will never under estimate any locking system from here on out!!!! i only hope a lot of these designers and companies see this and realize that this is a huge issue. i dont think a lock should ever fail! any break in failures should be worked out wherever that knife is built! this is absolutely blowing my mind!!
I have noticed among frame locks and liner locks that if you deploy the blade very aggressively it takes a bit more force sometimes to release it. My question is does that play a part in how easily your lock tests perform. I don't mean lock stick. But just a harder locking condition. Your thoughts Sir?!
I would say that the harder the deployment the more that lock bar/liner go under the tang of the knife. Even if it's a miniscule amount that could make a massive difference. But with that said, I have frame locks and liner locks that have say 25% lock up and are sold AF with just a normal deployment. So there's a lot to digest for sure
This is crazy I’ve been double checking all of my knives ever since seeing your other video on this subject Gladly none have failed, save for one But it was one of those crappy Amazon brands with a 55-57 HRC range made from 7Cr17 So it was never gonna be more then a beater knife anyways, a junk knife that I ended up using to test my other knives hardness (Got the thing before I started to really understand what was a good brand and what was a good steel and what steel hardness actually meant)
That's great news man, it's definitely a good idea to check, just so we know. Of course we always want to be safe but in the cases of an iffy lock we want even more caution. The knife is still usable just maybe not as dependable. Thanks brother 🤜🏻
Its going to be even worse for those knives that forcefully close ie have resistant force to opening up. They wasn't to close and will close tightly such as my Fallkniven TK3. Luckily I wacked quite hard a number of times and it stayed solid. Given from memory it was quite an expensive knife, I would hope it was well designed.
i think its fun, unique, well made and strong. so i really like it. especially at the civivi price point, its a great buy. i had it has my under $100 knife of the year this year. thanks brother
Thank you much appreciated interested in the rockwall but have seen that they have some issues as far as lock up and sharpening from factory and they are not cheap by any means
I would probably tell folks 1) some locks need breaking in, 2) that 2 ro 3 medium hits will tell you all you need to know and repeated beating on the spine will damage the lock and potentially void the warranty for using not as intended if the manufacturer can detect you have been spine wacking. I don't want to see you blamed for folks not knowing that is a thing. 👍
I doubt they'll watch my video 😂 and if they did that over a few taps, I would not consider buying their shit ever again. We'll see what happens, that issue preceded this test by months and months
GBall has every reviewer and their mothers doing it now. I'm just doing it for informational purposes. Something I stumbled across during a live stream and then I just started testing and recording 😂 all the waves it's made since then wasn't in my thoughts. I never thought that video would blow up like it did
These tests mean nothing for starters when you use the knife properly your holding the lock area and it doesntt allow the bouncing of the lock so it fails
Lots of examples of people holding their knives and still experiencing failures. To say it never happens is asinine. Accidents happen, I've had dozens up on dozens of comments from people whose knives had failed during use. I've had it happen. Not everything is an exposed frame lock. Even an exposed frame lock can still fail with a grip, I've tested it. And the chances you are squeezing the hell out of the handle Everytime you are cutting something is also false.
Thats objectively wrong. My titanium Lionsteel SR1 can still fail even with the stupid lock lock engaged. Even if you could actually hold the lockbar as tight as the rotoblock (you cant), the meat of your hand is soft enough to allow the few mm of movement the lockbar needs to unlock, in some cases.
For you to admit that you have no idea why one fails and another doesn't and then say other people don't know what they are talking about doesn't seem right to me. What your showing is a lock slipping back you and I both know if you take a frame lock and pinch the locking part of the frame firmly it won't fail. So to say the tension on the lock has "Nothing" to do with it is most definitely wrong.
It's not a literal expression of I don't know why, it's the expression as, I don't know why they aren't getting it right, why aren't they getting the geometry right, why aren't they catching it in QC, why aren't they testing them (alot of companies use too do this exact test in a QC process) . So your telling me it's okay for them to slip and fail ? Or that it's ok if they fail because you'll always be squeezing the piss out of the lock bar ? That is false also. Some aren't exposed frame locks, what then? There are plenty, dozens upon dozens that I have tested of exposed frame locks and they pass and they are locked up solid, they have good action, they are easy to disengage. So when you have ones that are failing due to the lightest of taps, that is an issue no matter what you want to say or what excuse you want to give. No locking knife should be failing at such a simple test, there are plenty of every single one of these locking mechanisms that pass with flying colors. You're not always squeezing the piss out of the handle. I would say most times people are casually holding on to the handle only when you get into something very dense. Are you going to squeeze the handle like that. I have also done testing where I am holding onto the handle like normal. Not squeezing really hard but just a normal grip and I can still get some of them to fail
@@GBall_Vision If the base of the blade and the lock face were cut exactly flat basically 90 degrees to each other they would not fail or slip back but you would have Play in the lock in no time. It's the slight angel at the base of the blade that stops it from having play in it over time and usage. That is what leads to failure if not done correctly. A small spot at the beginning of the cut should be square and then transition into a slight taper. That is the correct geometry for the grinds in the blade at it's locking point to have both a safe and play free lockup. Of course I agree with you some are just terrible and should not fail so easily. People don't like a little bit of lock stick when disengaging also so the angle is increased a bit by the manufacturer. I'm saying it's a balance to get it just right. In all my many years of using knives I have had a few folders close on my fingers unfortunately but I could have avoided it. Obviously fixed blade knives don't have that problem. I think some people have gotten so picky about everything involved with a folding knife that not all of them can live up to the expectations they have.
I like the video. But I can't get on the spine whack testing trend. It's like testing a screwdriver by prying with it or using it as a chisel. The knife is not a hammer. The purpose of a knife blade lock is to prevent the knife from folding closed while using the knife as it's intended, to cut things. I just think this whole trend does nothing to actually test the knife. If it stays locked while putting pressure on the spine with your thumb, then it has passed the test related to it's purpose as a cutting tool. I really do love your videos. Just can't get on board with whack tests.
It's not a test in a hammering aspect. These are very light to medium taps. The scenario this would happen is an accidental scenario, accidentally hitting it off of something while cutting etc.. I agree it's not the be all end all test though I do have to say it matters some, I have every major reviewer doing it now 😆
Love the channel....... But no, no, and more no.. I really have no interest in watching somebody hit 30 odd knives on a piece of wood.. Whoever started this absolute waste of time needs to take a long look in the mirror! Yes you MC. Unfortunately, this is a deal breaker for me 😴😴
Sorry brother. I want this information above all else for myself, but I have had hundreds of people ask me to do it as well. As I say it's not the be all end all test. But it's information people deserve to know. I hate for ya to leave over a video but if you must go that's your choice
Lock Testing For Informational Purposes
I misspeak on the Civivi Qubit, its not the Altus, its the Qubit that fails
Subscribe & become a part of the family
LIKE & COMMENT to support the channel/video
Everytime i see a knife video with the host having a bandage on their finger...we dont KNOW what happened, but we are pretty sure....STAY CRUSHIN IT BUDDY...👊
Lmao 🤣 good call man. Thanks brother 😆
The Altas passed... it was the Quibit that failed bro...
100% I misspoke brother
Great video - thanks for doing this!
When I was a teenager a half-serrated Gerber backlock failed on me due to an accidental spine whack. It got stuck in a piece of wood, and when I finally managed to pull it loose it flew out and hit a different branch. I had a perfect dotted line cut into my index finger for the rest of the summer.
thanks for the information. since doing all these lock tests ive had dozens upon dozens of people tell me stories on how theirs failed in one way or another. althought there is still people out here saying how this doesnt happen or how its not a plausible test. thanks brother
I've never spine whacked a knife but did use one in a way it wasn't intended and learned my lesson. 👍🍻
thanks brother
Great Video! This is why I always tell everyone to pay attention to what happens when you have a proper grip and the lock gives out... That's why I like folders with nice size forward finger choils or extended blade tangs. When a folder has this feature, if the lock gives out and you have a proper grip, you won't get your digits cut. To me, because, I have been badly cut by an accidental lock failure, when I accidentally hit the spine of my Liner-Lock, Benchmade AFCK, Titanium Liner-Lock, failed during a Fishing Trip. So, this is so ething I always pay attention to.
So many modern folders have weak locks that are likely to fail when spine whacked. This is something that is important to pay attention to. Because, most of the Folders with the best blade steels, often have weaker lock types. I feel it's important to find one's that if the lock fails it won't chop up your fingers... Great Video! :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Agreed on all of this. I also like a full choil and strong locks. A lot of locks have become fidget based. They are getting better at making fidgety strong locks but some still have work to do. Nothing wrong with them to mess with but as a user work knife I want a strong reliable lock for sure
Whenever I spine whack, it's always important to find the right spot. The Gspot. Then I put my gballs in it. Ehh ohhhh😂. Awesome vid brother.
That's my boy 😂 gotta whack it while putting the GBalls in 😂
Id like to add, the benchmade mini adamas has this issue as well. I used a small, thing grind stone to scratch the locking surface which fixed the issue. Now my mini adamas will take spine wacks and battoning through wood with no problem, not that you should use it for that.
Thanks for info brother
This was very enlightening. After watching this at work I went home and immediately tested my knives. Surprisingly, they all passed. Would be cool to start comprising a list.
Gerber - Paraframe
CJRB - Briar
Sencut - Watauga
Ontario - RAT1
Honey Badger - Large Claw
Kershaw - CQC11K
Kizer - Mini Paragon
Kizer - Begleiter 2 / Tanto
I was not easy on them by any means either. I was whacking them pretty hard. Even the smaller knives.
Excellent! Great information. I am working on a list
@@GBall_Vision awesome. It blew my mind to see some big “beefy” looking knives. And some big name brands fail. I guess it shows geometry is everything. If the little Begleiter can take it. Anything should be able to.
I appreciate these spine whack tests, and I understand multiple whacks to test different areas (force towards tip, closer to tang, etc). I wonder how necessary multiple whacks in same spot are, though, as you'll normally only bang it once in a slip or accidental motion. I doubt I'll accidentally slam into something 17 times, you know?? Lol thanks again!
The multiple whacks are definitely important. Not many knives are going to fail every single time, so what we’re really trying to test is more like the PROBABILITY of failure. As in, “this knife may fail but only very occasionally” or “this knife fails more than half of the time”.
Correct,. or this knife will pass regardless what we do to it (AD10) 😂 there's a lot of variables and not a lot of specifics ya no. Every knife could be a varying degree and different. I think the main course of concern would be an entire line of the same model failing IE Vosteed Raccoon V1. That was a massive issue across the board. There's a lot involved to consider
Cjrb puts out some of if not the best button lock knives in the game, in my opinion
I agree, especially $70 and under 💯💯 thanks brother 🤜🏻💥
I agree, especially $70 and under 💯💯 thanks brother 🤜🏻💥
Very cool to see the tests! Great video brother 👍
Thanks brother 🤜🏻
Thank you for doing these Test for us! I had 2 knives failing on me. 1 liner Lock and 1 Böker backlock. I was checking the Böker for up and down Bladeplay and it failed. What a shame. The Liner Lock failed on me when I cut heavy sticking stuff and i tried to push it out for a new cut and when I pushed it closed on me. The sticki stuff was holding the blade and with enough force it came out and closed on me. So thank you for doing that for us. Support and greetings from Austria, Europe
Glad to have you here brother and thank you for the input, I agree the testing needs done ✅
Its great to see a reasonable spinewhack test for a possible real world situation. i hate when people use the spine as a bat and say its shit and not to buy it bc it failed.
Thanks brother I will always try to be reasonable, optimistic and honest. 🤜💥
many of these knives can be strengthened with simple minute adjustments to the lock faces, be it sanding, lining with pencil lead, or bending lock bars.
Thanks for the input brother 🤜
Cool video thanks GBall
thanks brother
I would like to do a continuation of this video if you have no objection.
Edit: great video btw
Do it too it brother 🤜💥
I don't know why, but this is fun to watch.
im glad you enjoyed it lol, ill be doing some more as well
Whenever I go somewhere shady where guns are illegal to carry, I either have a cold steel or spyderco with me. Fixed & a couple folders. I don’t trust many liner/frame locks.
Great philosophy brother! I'm with you all the way
I was honestly shocked by some of these like the hogue and the qubit. Wow man thank you.
I was as well brother
Imagine if the Sheep Dog failed on someone’s hand it’s game over forever
i was thinking that when i was doing it, i thought i better really make sure my fingers are out of the way lmao
@@GBall_Vision get a good work glove or something man 🤕
So I quickly tested 5 of my knives and here are the results and I tried everything from light taps to smacking the hell out of them:
Hogue Ritter large (axis lock): pass
Sencut Crowley (button lock): pass
Civivi Vision FG (super lock): fail when hit at the tip with medium force
Demko AD20.5 (shark lock): fail with extreme force at middle of hole
Demko AD20S (shark lock): pass, I dont think I hit anyone harder than that (knocked chips out of the wood). I wanted to try the big brother after the small one failed at a silly level; maybe it is geometry on the smaller lock, maybe it is because the small blade is dlc coated.
The biggest shock was how easy the Vision FG failed when hit softly toward the tip of the blade. Hope this helps!
Wow thanks for the info! The super lock failing is surprising. So was my Hogue RSk. I'll have to test my vision. Thanks brother
Whack, whack, whack, love it. Keep the great content coming, appreciate ya brother.
Watching the Ritter Hogue fail was a surprise.
I about shit for real
Good on you to spearhead spine whacking videos. I never considered it until now, since well-known knife reviewers & yourself brought it to attention. I have only recently spine whack my knives, and my result on ZT 0562, new version MagnaCut, failed and I had cut my knuckle. Next time I better position hand properly. But, it ironic that Hinderer design tough ZT model lock fail… Go figure. My new EDC is QC Waypoint LC, MagnaCut, love that’s it super water resistant but fail too… Guess go back to reliable Spyderco Compression-Lock PM2S!! lol
Through all of this stuff one thing I've realized is what we all kind of new all along, cold steel and spyderco best function in the game no question. Glad your here brother 🤜💥
This is a bit like watching someone sneak up on a sleeping bear to see if they can touch it and get away unharmed. Good tests tho! I know it’s unlikely to be a problem in most knife usage, but I would rather not have a knife that folds in this kind of testing. Thanks for doing it!
precisely, its not common or an everyday thing but it can happen. strictly for information and safety for my community to know about. thanks for watching brother
Would love to see the Snecx super lock tested with the Vision FG
I missed on that one. Damn 😂 I'll do that in the next video. Good call brother
Another comment or said his Visions fails easily when whacked up near the tip
I love that original Civivi button lock Elementum because it locks closed. In my experience/opinion, it's far more likely for a folding knife to accidently open than accidently close. I'd love to see you do a drop test with these same knives while they're closed, and see how many of them land open! 😂🙌🍻
That's a great idea. I'll write it down brother 🤜🏻💥
one of mine had failed by pulling out of the material i was cutting, nothing hit the spine. builder fixed issue asap.👍
Exactly 💯 it can definitely happen in a variety of ways. Thanks for the info brother
Hey Gweg I don't know what's up with the complainers. I appreciate you doing this kind of testing. A lock should hold the blade open against all reasonable force. Naturally all will fail if enough force is applied. If a lock won't pass this you are better off with a slip joint. That is if you don't collect em just for looks.
Thanks brother and I agree 😂😂 we know some don't really use them for sure 🤣
Ever had your knife get stuck in material where you have to force the knife back and forth to get it out? I have. This test shows which locks may fail in that situation.
Agreed 💯💯💯 thanks brother 🤜🏻💥
Dang, surprised Veloce failed so easily. I have hit knives like this on accident and had a failure before. Not good to see. Luckily the flipper tab helps protect fingers, as well as being in finger choil
Agreed 💯💯 finger choil and flippers def help
I had a benchmade bugout that would slip due to tolerances in manufacturing. I had to take a dremmel and polish the back of the spine for the axis lock to fully engage without me pushing the axis into place after flipping the knife open. After that I never had that problem again
Awesome 😎 thank you for the info brother
No problem, although I should say, benchmade is charging us enough of a premium that if your knife fails like this and you don't feel comfortable fixing it yourself, send it back to benchmade to fix it.@@GBall_Vision
Is there a place where you can list the knives with whether or not they passed?
I will put a sheet together, I have a lot of viewer info and my own to compile. I will get it together and put something in the community tab when I get it done
Obviously uncommon situation but lots of ways you can imagine it happening. One no one mentions is if you nick your left hand and instinctively pull the knife back quickly into something else. You hit the back of the knife on something and now both hands are cut.
Exactly, there's lots of accidental scenarios where this could easily happen. I've heard story after story at this point
@@GBall_VisionExactly. It's called an accident for a reason. Knifemaker's job is to account for these eventualities. At scale even a small problem could impact dozens or hundreds of people over time.
I posted on your older video. i needed to let you know that my Vero Engineering synapse GEN 3, just had lock failure without any whacks. i looked up posts on this because this is an expensive knife that was well cared for. i just opened it and there is no more lock at all.
Hello. I saw your comment, I didn't get a chance to answer much yet today, is it a coated blade? Have you tried taking it apart and reassembling it?
Any stabbing/thrusting or unconventional use of a knife like prying or any other plethora of potential abstract movements is exactly why a strong locking mechanism is crucial.
I would rather have the extra protection and never need it then not have it.
Completely agree
Whacks like no other!
i try my HARDEST..... lol thanks brother
I test every knife i get no matter the size style lock etc. I give good taps on my palm. Less likely to damage and comforts my sense of security. Seems to be an eveb ground. But don't worry G the cjrb hectare does need to break in. Mine was slipping but not failing. Then i tested it harder on piece of wood and it failed a couple times. Opened and closed a few 100 more times then retested it and i cant get to fail at all. Any more force needed to get it to fail would just be unjustifiable in use lol
Thanks for the info/input brother, I'm going to continue breaking in/testing/diagnosing for quite some time. I'm going to break my relative and voodoo out to try and figure them out too. Might do that on camera as well
@@GBall_Vision I absolutely think a good cleaning and tweaking of the lockbar will fix those 2. Especially the voodoo. I don't have one but Reate knows lockface geometry. And bestech is right there on the relative.
@@Seth45Dn I'm hoping so brother - those 2 put a nail in my heart for sure 😂 I'm hoping to reconcile it somehow I haven't said anything to any designer or OEM yet anyways
Seems like you just need to tighten the pivot of that ad20.5 and should get rid of the play but still the shark lock held strong
Yup! Just did it , I'd say it made it 85% better
I haven’t had a whack like that
in ages
you need a good whacking once n awhile :)
Oh no, not the RSK 😥 Where did you get this "spine whacker"? i need one
i no i was sad as well brother. thats an exclusive through Lowes. lmao
Good idea this kind of test, everyone presents folding knives without ever ever testing the effectiveness of the locking system.
My goal is to test that on every knife from here on out brother along with many other things
@@GBall_Vision thanks
I guess I am watching a video on wacking!!!!! lol!!!! Great Video
Got to whack it once and awhile 😂
@@GBall_Vision hahahahaah
Id almost bet you the spartan harsey is locking up to close to the pivot on the lock face. Mine was doing the same some lite sanding fixed it
How do you mean? To close to the pivot? So you just lightly sanded the lock face?
@@GBall_Vision yeah. Look on the lock face of the lock bar it should only be making contact towards the front if it's locking up to far back close to the pivot it'll cause that blade rock. Wine was doing the same thing yours was doing even after a long break in. I lighty sanded just where it was showing wear on the lock face close to the pivot. It didn't take much but it fixed it and that was a least 3 yrs ago still locks up like a rock today
@@GBall_Vision and i meant to say the lock face on the titanium lock bar not the blade. The Ti is much easier to sand down but you probably alreay know that. The further you can get it to lock up from the pivot the better
@@lukecrafford6544 thanks brother! I will be trying that tomorrow, what did you use in order to send it? Sand paper? What grit ? I'm a carpenter so I have pretty much whatever or I should
@@GBall_Vision think I started with 150 nothing to course then I went straight to something like 1200 lol. It don't take much at all the spot I needed to sand was 1/8 of inch maybe less. I put sharpie on the face of lockbar cycled the action a few times so i could see exactly where the lock up was landing. Took apart and sanded lighty just the back half where it was locking up close to the pivot (not the whole lock face). Tried to explain best i could hope this helps
I would love to see this test on a sabenza and the super lock
I'll have an inkosi test in my video later
I missed on the super lock, ill be incorporating that into the next one brother. 🤜💥
Not a Sebenza, but my heavily used Inkosi (insingo) passed. I beat the hell out of it and couldn't get it to fail.
@@CNYKnifeNut same 🤘
Oh wow! i never would have predicted a cross bar lock failing, i sure hope its few and far between along with yours! were you surprised when the lock on your hogue failed? i sure as shit was and i dont even own one!! thats crazy. i will never under estimate any locking system from here on out!!!! i only hope a lot of these designers and companies see this and realize that this is a huge issue. i dont think a lock should ever fail! any break in failures should be worked out wherever that knife is built! this is absolutely blowing my mind!!
It's astounding for sure. It needs figured out as well. I almost shit when my Hogue failed. I was not expecting it at all. Thanks brother
I have noticed among frame locks and liner locks that if you deploy the blade very aggressively it takes a bit more force sometimes to release it. My question is does that play a part in how easily your lock tests perform. I don't mean lock stick. But just a harder locking condition. Your thoughts Sir?!
I would say that the harder the deployment the more that lock bar/liner go under the tang of the knife. Even if it's a miniscule amount that could make a massive difference. But with that said, I have frame locks and liner locks that have say 25% lock up and are sold AF with just a normal deployment. So there's a lot to digest for sure
I carry a fixed blade on my belt for business and my fancy flippers stay in my pocket were they belong
That's definitely not a bad philosophy brother. Thanks man
This is crazy
I’ve been double checking all of my knives ever since seeing your other video on this subject
Gladly none have failed, save for one
But it was one of those crappy Amazon brands with a 55-57 HRC range made from 7Cr17
So it was never gonna be more then a beater knife anyways, a junk knife that I ended up using to test my other knives hardness
(Got the thing before I started to really understand what was a good brand and what was a good steel and what steel hardness actually meant)
That's great news man, it's definitely a good idea to check, just so we know. Of course we always want to be safe but in the cases of an iffy lock we want even more caution. The knife is still usable just maybe not as dependable. Thanks brother 🤜🏻
One of my two Kizer Originals has this issue
So does my one original brother
Fine I'll watch this til the live... 😂
2x mode
thanks brother
no ross, only if you watch it twice. lmao
An old timer liner lock failed on me however I was being an idiot
That happens 😂
Its going to be even worse for those knives that forcefully close ie have resistant force to opening up. They wasn't to close and will close tightly such as my Fallkniven TK3. Luckily I wacked quite hard a number of times and it stayed solid. Given from memory it was quite an expensive knife, I would hope it was well designed.
Thanks brother I appreciate it 🙏🏻
What do you think of the new sneck design civivi vision with there new lock?
i think its fun, unique, well made and strong. so i really like it. especially at the civivi price point, its a great buy. i had it has my under $100 knife of the year this year. thanks brother
@@GBall_Vision thanks a lot👍, i will check that out! I appreciate your vids and wish you and your familly an happy new year !!
@@alexracine4433 happy new Year brother. I'll be testing the Snecx lock next batch too
…😂🤣😂… The Spine Wack Extravaganza !!! Brought to you by #BrassBrigade …🤣🤦🏻♂️🤣… #FUNKWONKY …🖌
😂😂
Benchmade 200 passed GNuts
my names gweg
Any issues with tactile Rockwall failing?
I'll check it I think that one's good but I'll double check it
Thank you much appreciated interested in the rockwall but have seen that they have some issues as far as lock up and sharpening from factory and they are not cheap by any means
sweet i love theese videos
thanks brother
can you test a sharp by design knife with his detent nub.
Yes i have at least 2 i think, ill be doing another batch video soon, ill include sbd brother
Another popular youtube knife reviewer said we are all idiots for testing for this !
Who was that,,? Sounds like they are covering up something or their stupid af
I’ll stick with my Spydercos and cold steel
Nothing wrong with that!
I would probably tell folks 1) some locks need breaking in, 2) that 2 ro 3 medium hits will tell you all you need to know and repeated beating on the spine will damage the lock and potentially void the warranty for using not as intended if the manufacturer can detect you have been spine wacking. I don't want to see you blamed for folks not knowing that is a thing. 👍
All very good calls. I'll be doing another one and will do my best to disclose that stuff. I think it will fly on deaf ears with some lol 😂
woooooooo
Spartan is going to watch this video and not warrenty your knife
I doubt they'll watch my video 😂 and if they did that over a few taps, I would not consider buying their shit ever again. We'll see what happens, that issue preceded this test by months and months
Douk Douk 4Lyfe
YOOOO!!! the douk douk!! hell yeah
Spine whacking is a thing now.
GBall has every reviewer and their mothers doing it now. I'm just doing it for informational purposes. Something I stumbled across during a live stream and then I just started testing and recording 😂 all the waves it's made since then wasn't in my thoughts. I never thought that video would blow up like it did
@@GBall_Vision Yes Sir you started something.
Whack
Harder
These tests mean nothing for starters when you use the knife properly your holding the lock area and it doesntt allow the bouncing of the lock so it fails
Lots of examples of people holding their knives and still experiencing failures. To say it never happens is asinine. Accidents happen, I've had dozens up on dozens of comments from people whose knives had failed during use. I've had it happen. Not everything is an exposed frame lock. Even an exposed frame lock can still fail with a grip, I've tested it. And the chances you are squeezing the hell out of the handle Everytime you are cutting something is also false.
Thats objectively wrong. My titanium Lionsteel SR1 can still fail even with the stupid lock lock engaged.
Even if you could actually hold the lockbar as tight as the rotoblock (you cant), the meat of your hand is soft enough to allow the few mm of movement the lockbar needs to unlock, in some cases.
This is a cringe fest, but I can’t seem to look away…
its tough to do and find out also lol, the hogue rsk failling made me about shit
@@GBall_Vision thanks for doing it! Very interesting info. There were definitely some surprises for me.
@@MrBowser2012 same here man
For you to admit that you have no idea why one fails and another doesn't and then say other people don't know what they are talking about doesn't seem right to me. What your showing is a lock slipping back you and I both know if you take a frame lock and pinch the locking part of the frame firmly it won't fail. So to say the tension on the lock has "Nothing" to do with it is most definitely wrong.
It's not a literal expression of I don't know why, it's the expression as, I don't know why they aren't getting it right, why aren't they getting the geometry right, why aren't they catching it in QC, why aren't they testing them (alot of companies use too do this exact test in a QC process) . So your telling me it's okay for them to slip and fail ? Or that it's ok if they fail because you'll always be squeezing the piss out of the lock bar ? That is false also. Some aren't exposed frame locks, what then? There are plenty, dozens upon dozens that I have tested of exposed frame locks and they pass and they are locked up solid, they have good action, they are easy to disengage. So when you have ones that are failing due to the lightest of taps, that is an issue no matter what you want to say or what excuse you want to give. No locking knife should be failing at such a simple test, there are plenty of every single one of these locking mechanisms that pass with flying colors. You're not always squeezing the piss out of the handle. I would say most times people are casually holding on to the handle only when you get into something very dense. Are you going to squeeze the handle like that. I have also done testing where I am holding onto the handle like normal. Not squeezing really hard but just a normal grip and I can still get some of them to fail
@@GBall_Vision If the base of the blade and the lock face were cut exactly flat basically 90 degrees to each other they would not fail or slip back but you would have Play in the lock in no time. It's the slight angel at the base of the blade that stops it from having play in it over time and usage. That is what leads to failure if not done correctly. A small spot at the beginning of the cut should be square and then transition into a slight taper. That is the correct geometry for the grinds in the blade at it's locking point to have both a safe and play free lockup. Of course I agree with you some are just terrible and should not fail so easily. People don't like a little bit of lock stick when disengaging also so the angle is increased a bit by the manufacturer. I'm saying it's a balance to get it just right. In all my many years of using knives I have had a few folders close on my fingers unfortunately but I could have avoided it. Obviously fixed blade knives don't have that problem. I think some people have gotten so picky about everything involved with a folding knife that not all of them can live up to the expectations they have.
I like the video. But I can't get on the spine whack testing trend. It's like testing a screwdriver by prying with it or using it as a chisel. The knife is not a hammer. The purpose of a knife blade lock is to prevent the knife from folding closed while using the knife as it's intended, to cut things. I just think this whole trend does nothing to actually test the knife. If it stays locked while putting pressure on the spine with your thumb, then it has passed the test related to it's purpose as a cutting tool. I really do love your videos. Just can't get on board with whack tests.
It's not a test in a hammering aspect. These are very light to medium taps. The scenario this would happen is an accidental scenario, accidentally hitting it off of something while cutting etc.. I agree it's not the be all end all test though
I do have to say it matters some, I have every major reviewer doing it now 😆
Love the channel.......
But no, no, and more no..
I really have no interest in watching somebody hit 30 odd knives on a piece of wood..
Whoever started this absolute waste of time needs to take a long look in the mirror! Yes you MC.
Unfortunately, this is a deal breaker for me 😴😴
Sorry brother. I want this information above all else for myself, but I have had hundreds of people ask me to do it as well. As I say it's not the be all end all test. But it's information people deserve to know. I hate for ya to leave over a video but if you must go that's your choice