Great stuff! Which motor are you using in this? Leopard or Turnigy? I went through the same issues with solder. Take the shrink wrap off, remove the old heatsink and bond on a bigger one with thermal epoxy...and add a shit ton of cooling.. Works a treat on the Turnigy SK3, but the Leopard will always pop those ESC's in the end..
Leopard but i also got the surpass hobby boat rocket 3660 3150kv for my next 4s funjet build. Yeah heatshrink is of but I cant fit a higher sink as I have to get it in from the rear and there is just no room
The fuselage channel turns from squarish to round 10cm from the back, mabey I open it up a tiny bit so I can fitt the bigger sink, than I would open up for better air escape around the motor too wich is probably even more beneficial than the bigger sink...
@@SLINGSHOTandMOLOTOWS Complete ends of of the scale, but I have a Sonic 64 wing. Went 4S with it (even though I changed to stock esc out to a 40A Plush) and it still over heated as it was right next to battery in a confined space. Chucked it out on the wing (not good for you as aerodynamics is a BIG factor for 200mph speeds) and now its golden! Just added a new fan as I smashed the old one in a crash and something went through the fan blades. New motor/fan pulls 40A max, so I'm hoping that the 40A esc will be ok or its upgrade time AGAIN. Hope you get yours sorted. I thought my Strix Goblin was fast, but yours is on another level.
Turns out the esc did not burn, it was the middle motorwire that desolder itself from the esc and fused to the left esc output. The esc got so hot that the solder melted and unfortunatly killed the esc in the process when two motor outputs fused together. But it did not burn. This would probebly not had happend I I had not removed the stock esc motor output wires and used leaded 60/40 solder to solder new wires to the esc. The lead free solder that was used from the factory has a much higher melting point than the leaded solder I used
@@SLINGSHOTandMOLOTOWS Well at least you know your probably safe to use that same esc again. Secure the wires somehow (not hot glue) so if they did melt off (don't de-solder) then they cant blow the esc again.
@@blackbirdboy1 im gonna let the stock motorwires stay on if possible and if not I will have to get some lead free solder. Yeah the esc should probably be able to take more amps if I just can keep the damn solder not to melt
Great stuff! Which motor are you using in this? Leopard or Turnigy? I went through the same issues with solder. Take the shrink wrap off, remove the old heatsink and bond on a bigger one with thermal epoxy...and add a shit ton of cooling.. Works a treat on the Turnigy SK3, but the Leopard will always pop those ESC's in the end..
Leopard but i also got the surpass hobby boat rocket 3660 3150kv for my next 4s funjet build.
Yeah heatshrink is of but I cant fit a higher sink as I have to get it in from the rear and there is just no room
The fuselage channel turns from squarish to round 10cm from the back, mabey I open it up a tiny bit so I can fitt the bigger sink, than I would open up for better air escape around the motor too wich is probably even more beneficial than the bigger sink...
Over 200mph on the downwind leg. I'm betting cooling, as things are packing very tight in there, is very negligible.
Yes i need to manage the wires to keep the air flowing and add a heatsink to the esc. Mabey try to direct tha flow on the esc too
@@SLINGSHOTandMOLOTOWS Complete ends of of the scale, but I have a Sonic 64 wing. Went 4S with it (even though I changed to stock esc out to a 40A Plush) and it still over heated as it was right next to battery in a confined space. Chucked it out on the wing (not good for you as aerodynamics is a BIG factor for 200mph speeds) and now its golden! Just added a new fan as I smashed the old one in a crash and something went through the fan blades. New motor/fan pulls 40A max, so I'm hoping that the 40A esc will be ok or its upgrade time AGAIN. Hope you get yours sorted. I thought my Strix Goblin was fast, but yours is on another level.
Turns out the esc did not burn, it was the middle motorwire that desolder itself from the esc and fused to the left esc output. The esc got so hot that the solder melted and unfortunatly killed the esc in the process when two motor outputs fused together. But it did not burn. This would probebly not had happend I I had not removed the stock esc motor output wires and used leaded 60/40 solder to solder new wires to the esc. The lead free solder that was used from the factory has a much higher melting point than the leaded solder I used
@@SLINGSHOTandMOLOTOWS Well at least you know your probably safe to use that same esc again. Secure the wires somehow (not hot glue) so if they did melt off (don't de-solder) then they cant blow the esc again.
@@blackbirdboy1 im gonna let the stock motorwires stay on if possible and if not I will have to get some lead free solder. Yeah the esc should probably be able to take more amps if I just can keep the damn solder not to melt
wow! what a rocket!!!