Hey man, thanks for putting this out there. Quick question for follow-up or future edits: If you're going to make any revisions/updates on this video, would you also recommend annealing cut-off brass before resizing to 300BLK? I know it's not always necessary if you're going for quick and easy, but it might be important for reducing split necks when converting it to a new size and extending out case life.
Hello Andrew Word! My process is to cut the brass, anneal, resize. If you ask 10 reloaders, you might get 10 varying answers. My suggestion for you is to test out different ways and find what works for you. Most will say you get better neck tension when you anneal then resize. Hope this helps! I’ve pinned your comment so others can chime in and give their opinion as well. Thanks for the question/comment!
@@k2defense Thanks for the feedback. I've been reloading for about 7 years now, but I'm continuously seeking out knowledge in reloading. It's when we think we know everything already, that we become dangerous to ourselves and others. Cheers!
@@andrewword5770 keep reading and watching videos. I keep my reloading manual by my bedside right next to my Bible. Read, then reread. Their both good for the soul. Keep safe out there!
@@k2defense Amen, isn't that the truth. 😆I've found that you may ruffle some feathers if you keep the wrong reloading manual (or Bible) next to your bedside. Happy shooting amigo! May your groups be small and your cases never rupture!
If the cut length is slightly larger than the C.O.A.L use a Lee 300 BO trim guage and trim to length before following on to the creating the neck stage. If you dont you can have feeding problems!!
FYI not all brass will work, some have too thick case walls and will cause chambering issues. For example Wolf 223 brass is no good. I typically use FC, LC or RP, SB head stamps.
I have the same setup for 556 to 300Blk. With my Dillon press I was having issues resizing the case. It was jamming in the die. The anealed part of a case is the neck and is cut off when we convert it. I found that anealing it before resizing works better. I anealed it a second time after resizing because resizing rehardens it causing the mouth of the case to be smaller. Doing a second aneal makes the bullet easier to set into the case not to mention keeps the neck flexible as it should be.
You left out the step to trim the neck due to the walls of the 5.56 cases being different thickness depending on head stamp, which becomes the neck walls, thereby causing chamber jambs especially in match grade barrels. A Hornady neck trimmer may be employed to resolve this issue. A .0135 wall thickness after trimming has served well for the last couple years to prevent chamber jambs. Recently found a video on the subject by Ultimate Reloaders as well.
@DF-DefendFREEDOM - go to 2:30 in the video. Where I find chambering issues is with the headspace. Ramp feed issues are also common. To thwart off ramp feed issues, apply a light crimp. Chambering issues, dial your die down and either use a depth gauge or use your rifle to see if it cycles appropriately. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@k2defensewhat he is referencing is totally than trimming overall length. He's referencing neck wall thickness. Which can be an issue in forming brass to be chamberings.
@LS-vl8gu - ok, now I’m trackin’. Yes, the 5.56 case will be thicker than the .223 case which will need to be trimmed down a bit. I totally blew by that. Great catch to both of you!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Appreciate you clarifying this for the audience and me! 😊👍🏻
I have seen someone making 300 BLK from 223 to 300, after the first fire of the resized case, the case will fire-form to chamber then be too short. If allowing for this, how much extra can you leave on the case length until it causes chambering issues? I thought about making ‘rough’ first initial plinking subsonic rounds using cheap round nose bullets designed for 30 cal. Then after first fire resizing correctly. I only have a bolt action so not worried about driving a gas system for a AR. So much info for 300 BLK is for the AR guys, if only bolt action (or some of the new lever actions now in 300 BLK) does not apply
I’m not sure I’m following. So your friend converted .223 cases into 300 BLK cases, the 300 BLK case was resized. After resizing the case was trimmed to spec, then reloaded the case. He shot that cartridge and then it shortened? If so that shouldn’t be an issue since resizing will lengthen the case. I assume you’re using SB dies?
@@k2defense Size was perfect after cutting, but when checking after first fire. The some of the cases was shorter I think from the case fire forming to chamber? The brass must spring back when forming with some brands?
Hmmmm… the only time you measure your brass is after depriming and resizing. So, what you’re telling me is that the cases are at spec length when reloaded and they get shorter after shooting. My question is, what is the length of the case after resizing. Hope all this make sense. 👍🏻
I usually chamfer and deburr after resizing and trimming. Resizing causing lengthening of the case so I always trim after the resize. Hope this helps 👍🏻
What about the burrs from the saw cut, do they build up inside your sizing die? I am reluctant to put them in my die with the jagged edge from the saw. @@k2defense
@@muleskinner2226yes, that’s a great point. Definitely wouldn’t hurt and to your point help extend die life. Great observation! 👍🏻 thanks for bringing that forward!
@spytye1 - great question! I’ll be releasing a video on annealing here hopefully soon. If you’re not using a full length or SB die, you probably don’t need to anneal. However, if you’re looking for more accurate and reliable reloads, annealing might be your best bet. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
I tried just that and I keep getting my bra stuck, and I lube it with case lube, it rips ears off my end of my brass where the extractor would grab. How about doing a video on where and how to set that die up
@jamesmorgan-p2j - I’m working with RCBS to resolve this issue. The quick fix is to order the Lee #4 case holder. amzn.to/4fRoAx9 Hopefully they’ll get this resolved quickly. Just a side note, RCBS was bought out by Hodgdon so I know they are very interested in customer feedback and quality improvement. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Hey man, thanks for putting this out there. Quick question for follow-up or future edits: If you're going to make any revisions/updates on this video, would you also recommend annealing cut-off brass before resizing to 300BLK? I know it's not always necessary if you're going for quick and easy, but it might be important for reducing split necks when converting it to a new size and extending out case life.
Hello Andrew Word!
My process is to cut the brass, anneal, resize. If you ask 10 reloaders, you might get 10 varying answers. My suggestion for you is to test out different ways and find what works for you. Most will say you get better neck tension when you anneal then resize. Hope this helps! I’ve pinned your comment so others can chime in and give their opinion as well. Thanks for the question/comment!
@@k2defense Thanks for the feedback. I've been reloading for about 7 years now, but I'm continuously seeking out knowledge in reloading. It's when we think we know everything already, that we become dangerous to ourselves and others. Cheers!
@@andrewword5770 keep reading and watching videos. I keep my reloading manual by my bedside right next to my Bible. Read, then reread. Their both good for the soul. Keep safe out there!
@@k2defense Amen, isn't that the truth. 😆I've found that you may ruffle some feathers if you keep the wrong reloading manual (or Bible) next to your bedside. Happy shooting amigo! May your groups be small and your cases never rupture!
Andrew Word - love it! 👍🏻
The knowledge you have about bullets is fascinating
@661_RACING - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
If the cut length is slightly larger than the C.O.A.L use a Lee 300 BO trim guage and trim to length before following on to the creating the neck stage. If you dont you can have feeding problems!!
FYI not all brass will work, some have too thick case walls and will cause chambering issues. For example Wolf 223 brass is no good. I typically use FC, LC or RP, SB head stamps.
my FC bulges my case necks for me...frustrating
Fantastic no nonsense video! So excited, I just started reloading and plan to do this soon.
@Heisenbrick - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
I have the same setup for 556 to 300Blk. With my Dillon press I was having issues resizing the case. It was jamming in the die. The anealed part of a case is the neck and is cut off when we convert it. I found that anealing it before resizing works better. I anealed it a second time after resizing because resizing rehardens it causing the mouth of the case to be smaller. Doing a second aneal makes the bullet easier to set into the case not to mention keeps the neck flexible as it should be.
@Gundog55 - thanks for sharing this! Appreciate your comment! 👍🏻
@@Gundog55 use imperial wax I found works the best, also heard that the STP oil treatment works well. Also that I don’t know just what I heard.
You left out the step to trim the neck due to the walls of the 5.56 cases being different thickness depending on head stamp, which becomes the neck walls, thereby causing chamber jambs especially in match grade barrels. A Hornady neck trimmer may be employed to resolve this issue. A .0135 wall thickness after trimming has served well for the last couple years to prevent chamber jambs. Recently found a video on the subject by Ultimate Reloaders as well.
@DF-DefendFREEDOM - go to 2:30 in the video. Where I find chambering issues is with the headspace. Ramp feed issues are also common. To thwart off ramp feed issues, apply a light crimp. Chambering issues, dial your die down and either use a depth gauge or use your rifle to see if it cycles appropriately. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@k2defensewhat he is referencing is totally than trimming overall length. He's referencing neck wall thickness. Which can be an issue in forming brass to be chamberings.
@LS-vl8gu - ok, now I’m trackin’. Yes, the 5.56 case will be thicker than the .223 case which will need to be trimmed down a bit. I totally blew by that. Great catch to both of you!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Appreciate you clarifying this for the audience and me! 😊👍🏻
I have seen someone making 300 BLK from 223 to 300, after the first fire of the resized case, the case will fire-form to chamber then be too short.
If allowing for this, how much extra can you leave on the case length until it causes chambering issues?
I thought about making ‘rough’ first initial plinking subsonic rounds using cheap round nose bullets designed for 30 cal. Then after first fire resizing correctly.
I only have a bolt action so not worried about driving a gas system for a AR.
So much info for 300 BLK is for the AR guys, if only bolt action (or some of the new lever actions now in 300 BLK) does not apply
I’m not sure I’m following. So your friend converted .223 cases into 300 BLK cases, the 300 BLK case was resized. After resizing the case was trimmed to spec, then reloaded the case. He shot that cartridge and then it shortened? If so that shouldn’t be an issue since resizing will lengthen the case. I assume you’re using SB dies?
@@k2defense Size was perfect after cutting, but when checking after first fire. The some of the cases was shorter I think from the case fire forming to chamber?
The brass must spring back when forming with some brands?
Hmmmm… the only time you measure your brass is after depriming and resizing. So, what you’re telling me is that the cases are at spec length when reloaded and they get shorter after shooting. My question is, what is the length of the case after resizing. Hope all this make sense. 👍🏻
good video. thank you
Do you have a list of all devices needed? Maybe an Amazon list link or something?
Send me your contact information to K2defensemn@gmail.com
👍🏻
Thanks!
i noticed you didn't anneal. Should we do that b4 running through the die? Unnecessary? looked smooth. Short sweet well done video. Thanks
sorry, I should read the pinned post first!
@mrbigsdaddy - make sure to subscribe and turn on your notifications. I’ll be dropping more videos on this topic soon! 👍🏻
@mrbigsdaddy - no worries! 👍🏻
Do you chamfer and de bur before you size them?
I usually chamfer and deburr after resizing and trimming. Resizing causing lengthening of the case so I always trim after the resize. Hope this helps 👍🏻
What about the burrs from the saw cut, do they build up inside your sizing die? I am reluctant to put them in my die with the jagged edge from the saw. @@k2defense
@@muleskinner2226yes, that’s a great point. Definitely wouldn’t hurt and to your point help extend die life. Great observation! 👍🏻 thanks for bringing that forward!
FYI for best results do not use psd,or wolf cases
So is annealing necessary after cutting these down?
@spytye1 - great question! I’ll be releasing a video on annealing here hopefully soon. If you’re not using a full length or SB die, you probably don’t need to anneal. However, if you’re looking for more accurate and reliable reloads, annealing might be your best bet. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
I tried just that and I keep getting my bra stuck, and I lube it with case lube, it rips ears off my end of my brass where the extractor would grab. How about doing a video on where and how to set that die up
@jamesmorgan-p2j - what die and case holder are you using? Are they both RCBS?
@ RCBS 300 blackout dies also number 10 holder, I’m using imperial wax no more stock shells
@jamesmorgan-p2j - I’m working with RCBS to resolve this issue. The quick fix is to order the Lee #4 case holder.
amzn.to/4fRoAx9
Hopefully they’ll get this resolved quickly. Just a side note, RCBS was bought out by Hodgdon so I know they are very interested in customer feedback and quality improvement. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
How long does that amazon saw last?
@randomstuff4805 - the blades do not last long. There are upgraded blades you can get. Hope this helps!
Ensuring your securing your jig to table
Yessir! 👍🏻