I have had my Disco 2 for about 4 years now. It was gifted to me. I spent about 4 months doing a full service. New wheel bearing. New brakes with rotors front and rear. I pulled the front and rear diffs. Discovered the rear had water in the diff. The front was ok. I tore apart the rear diff. Cleaned the housing. I didn't take apart the rear Carrier. At that time I was short on funds. This year I'm going back into the rear diff. Install new bearings and Clean the housing again. I followed parts 1 /2 . Thank you for the simple solution to figure out the pinion depth. I also going to install new brake calipers front and back. Cheers and thank you sir
I just discovered your channel with the Part 1 video, man it was great to se this level of quality content about a D1. I have a 97 300tdi here in Argentina, it's my first car (I freakin love it). For now it's pretty much stock, just 245/75 r16 mud terrains and +2" coils. The goal is to go up to 265/75s, better shocks with more travel and some good protections (bumpers, sliders, that stuff). Congrats on the build, it looks amazing, you have a new sub! Greetings from Argentina.
Yeah, the stock ones aren't light, but after putting aftermarket diffs into them, they weigh more than the rest of the truck, I think. A near miss to the head would probably make me sell the truck!
the ol Disco's (D1's) should have come 'triple' locked from factory in my opinion. At least we have the option to do so. Tracks that once were closed to you have now become 'fair game'. Great video. Cheers for sharing.
I have the Ashcroft ATB in the front as well. I noticed immediately the steering self centering. As it brakes in you will notice the torque steering. under throttle at speed, it will pull slightly to the right, then when decelerating it will pull to the left. Not much, but it is there. I have a tru-trac in the rear. I also have the Ashcroft center diff ATB. this effectively makes it drive all 4 wheels constantly. the tru -trac and Ashcroft diff's each work to keep the power applied equally from side to side. Adding this feature to the center diff/T-case makes it an entirely different beast. now it is working to keep the front and rear spinning at the same speeds. I found that sand is where the most improvement is. I also have the LT230 center diff so I can lock it. On my 94 Range Rover I have rear traction control which helps to keep the rear diff acting like a locker. been following your progress, looks great so far..I am curious with your gearing what is your RPM at 70 MPH?
Oh I forgot to mention that I did notice the self centering steering as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. After a few days, I can't even notice it anymore. Interesting point about the torque steer, I'll have to pay attention to that. I haven't driven it above 60 mph yet, since I'm trying to break in the gears. But the Ashcroft calculator tells me I should be at 2,748 rpm. One other thing I wasn't expecting is for my speedometer to be so far off. It used to be about 15% under with the stock gears and 33s, and now it's about 10% over.
@@tfrasca142 that's a pretty high RPM for a 10 hour road trip.. well 20 if you count the way home. That's going to have an effect for sure at the pump.....The Ashcroft diff is biased a bit. The tru-trac is not I believe.. The Tru-trac and the Ashcroft both only work better the more you drive them. Do you belong to the Pacific Coast Rover club? they have some really awesome members and do a lot of outings. They also have members who are restoration guys and mechanics etc. Some real experienced rover people, and some just getting started types as well. Happy Trails.. Great videos by the way...
Yeah, it's definitely not going to be as nice as the stock gearing on flat ground. It used to sit at about 2100 at 70mph. But the second there was any incline, it felt like we were going backwards. I don't know about the Pacific Coast Rover club, are they on Facebook or something?@@johnkemple
HI Mate! I can see you have someinterior swapped from D2 is this the case? Seats look different. I have 1998 300 TDI with boring plastic gray interior and was thinking about some swaping soon but everyone says you can`t fit D2 seats in D1. Any tips?
@@tfrasca142so I have the magnet ones for the bottom but can you use those at the top for the filler hole? Because I really hate the plastic ones and even the brass ones kind of suck cuz they are so flush and socket slips off easy
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 The magnetic one would fit the fill plug hole, and I don't think the magnet would interfere with anything inside the housing in that location, but I didn't really check when I was in there. D1s have metal plugs, so I'm still using the stock fill plug, with the magnetic drain plug.
Hell yeah there's a video. That car will get the "safari" treatment if the coilovers ever show up. ruclips.net/video/VJSDFidVKoA/видео.htmlfeature=shared
When I first pulled out onto the street, I could tell it wanted to self center a little more aggressively than the open diff. I got used to it by the time I got around the block though, and now I can't tell at all. It would be interesting to drive an open diff again to see the difference back to back.
@@ChristoforosGkekas when I had stock wheels (+33mm) the tires rubbed the arms so I adjusted the steering stops. With these wheels I gained 33mm of clearance, but I haven’t adjusted the stops back.
@@ChristoforosGkekas For cruising around town, I really like these 4.37s. I'll have to get back to you after this big roadtrip for highway driving impressions.
@@kostasdvr It's been a while since I had stock tires and gearing on this truck, but from memory (and math), 4.37 with 255/85 should be a little shorter than the stock setup.
Yeah, the front one is already a little bent. Stronger ones are on the list, but I want to build them. I think 4.37s could work for 35s. I just got done with 10 hours on the highway, and the revs are a tiny bit high for my worn 33s.
Yeah the LSD is a simpler install, but not by much. Drilling the hole in the differential housing and running wires is the only added work for the e-locker.
I have the LSD for 10years with no problem...onvthe rear with no problem. .I want to increase tyre size frm 32 inch to 35 inch...do I need to upgrade the pin or spiral gears
@@TheLandy786the LSD you have is probably strong enough for 35s, but if you have stock gears you’ll definitely want to replace them with a better ratio.
I have had my Disco 2 for about 4 years now. It was gifted to me. I spent about 4 months doing a full service. New wheel bearing. New brakes with rotors front and rear.
I pulled the front and rear diffs. Discovered the rear had water in the diff. The front was ok.
I tore apart the rear diff. Cleaned the housing. I didn't take apart the rear Carrier. At that time I was short on funds. This year I'm going back into the rear diff. Install new bearings and Clean the housing again.
I followed parts 1 /2 . Thank you for the simple solution to figure out the pinion depth.
I also going to install new brake calipers front and back. Cheers and thank you sir
Glad these videos are helping!
I just discovered your channel with the Part 1 video, man it was great to se this level of quality content about a D1. I have a 97 300tdi here in Argentina, it's my first car (I freakin love it). For now it's pretty much stock, just 245/75 r16 mud terrains and +2" coils. The goal is to go up to 265/75s, better shocks with more travel and some good protections (bumpers, sliders, that stuff). Congrats on the build, it looks amazing, you have a new sub! Greetings from Argentina.
Finally someone saying that ATB diff is useless. Thank you sir! told others it’s useless but nobody seems to understand.
11:50
"...the surprisingly heavy differential..." I always describe them as small moons after I nearly dropped one on my head🌑 Looking great man!
Yeah, the stock ones aren't light, but after putting aftermarket diffs into them, they weigh more than the rest of the truck, I think. A near miss to the head would probably make me sell the truck!
the ol Disco's (D1's) should have come 'triple' locked from factory in my opinion.
At least we have the option to do so.
Tracks that once were closed to you have now become 'fair game'.
Great video.
Cheers for sharing.
I agree, that should have been a factory option.
The result is simply brilliant. have fun and make us some nice off-road videos
Agreed!
I have the Ashcroft ATB in the front as well. I noticed immediately the steering self centering. As it brakes in you will notice the torque steering. under throttle at speed, it will pull slightly to the right, then when decelerating it will pull to the left. Not much, but it is there. I have a tru-trac in the rear. I also have the Ashcroft center diff ATB. this effectively makes it drive all 4 wheels constantly. the tru -trac and Ashcroft diff's each work to keep the power applied equally from side to side. Adding this feature to the center diff/T-case makes it an entirely different beast. now it is working to keep the front and rear spinning at the same speeds. I found that sand is where the most improvement is. I also have the LT230 center diff so I can lock it. On my 94 Range Rover I have rear traction control which helps to keep the rear diff acting like a locker. been following your progress, looks great so far..I am curious with your gearing what is your RPM at 70 MPH?
Oh I forgot to mention that I did notice the self centering steering as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. After a few days, I can't even notice it anymore. Interesting point about the torque steer, I'll have to pay attention to that. I haven't driven it above 60 mph yet, since I'm trying to break in the gears. But the Ashcroft calculator tells me I should be at 2,748 rpm. One other thing I wasn't expecting is for my speedometer to be so far off. It used to be about 15% under with the stock gears and 33s, and now it's about 10% over.
@@tfrasca142 that's a pretty high RPM for a 10 hour road trip.. well 20 if you count the way home. That's going to have an effect for sure at the pump.....The Ashcroft diff is biased a bit. The tru-trac is not I believe..
The Tru-trac and the Ashcroft both only work better the more you drive them. Do you belong to the Pacific Coast Rover club? they have some really awesome members and do a lot of outings. They also have members who are restoration guys and mechanics etc. Some real experienced rover people, and some just getting started types as well. Happy Trails.. Great videos by the way...
Yeah, it's definitely not going to be as nice as the stock gearing on flat ground. It used to sit at about 2100 at 70mph. But the second there was any incline, it felt like we were going backwards.
I don't know about the Pacific Coast Rover club, are they on Facebook or something?@@johnkemple
@@tfrasca142yeah I plan on doing 4.10 gears with 33s even with 35 it's lower gearing off-road then stock. I feel like 4.37 would be for 37 or higher
These videos are professional gold. Well done.
So good. "Instant" performance gain.
Only took a month!
Awesome Videos! Keep up the great work
Thanks!
Better and better!!! 😎👍🏻
This has me thinking about picking up a first gen disco for the weekends
I really like this comment.
We aim to please
Really enjoyed it
Glad to hear it!
HI Mate! I can see you have someinterior swapped from D2 is this the case? Seats look different. I have 1998 300 TDI with boring plastic gray interior and was thinking about some swaping soon but everyone says you can`t fit D2 seats in D1. Any tips?
My seats are just stock D1 SE7 seats, as far as I know.
If you ever plan on taking it to the Oregon Dunes ive got a diesel D1 down here in Coos Bay id love to show you around some day!
I’d love to. I’ve been out on the dunes in Florence a bit, but that’s been my only dune experience.
Tyler, do u have a link to those magnetic diff drain plugs, or are they a universal fit? Thnx!
I got them from Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B0190ZCURQ/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_simp_item_image
@@tfrasca142 thank u sir!
@@tfrasca142so I have the magnet ones for the bottom but can you use those at the top for the filler hole? Because I really hate the plastic ones and even the brass ones kind of suck cuz they are so flush and socket slips off easy
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 The magnetic one would fit the fill plug hole, and I don't think the magnet would interfere with anything inside the housing in that location, but I didn't really check when I was in there. D1s have metal plugs, so I'm still using the stock fill plug, with the magnetic drain plug.
Let me get that 944 with the rack in the background. Is there a video on that thing?
Hell yeah there's a video. That car will get the "safari" treatment if the coilovers ever show up. ruclips.net/video/VJSDFidVKoA/видео.htmlfeature=shared
does the front ever feel weird on tar
When I first pulled out onto the street, I could tell it wanted to self center a little more aggressively than the open diff. I got used to it by the time I got around the block though, and now I can't tell at all. It would be interesting to drive an open diff again to see the difference back to back.
@@tfrasca142 so no negative effects or anything that you noticed?
Nope, it basically feels like stock.@@jessewilmot2166
wheels have offset?
0mm offset.
@tfrasca142 when you turn the wheels you don't have problem with tires on radius arms?
@@ChristoforosGkekas when I had stock wheels (+33mm) the tires rubbed the arms so I adjusted the steering stops. With these wheels I gained 33mm of clearance, but I haven’t adjusted the stops back.
Thanks man! You help me very much with the video and your informations...
I have a discovery 1 and i wanna do the same thing 🙏🙏
Tires dimensions?
255/85r16
4.37 or 4.12 crowns and pinions you think is better for 255/85R16?
@@ChristoforosGkekas For cruising around town, I really like these 4.37s. I'll have to get back to you after this big roadtrip for highway driving impressions.
@@tfrasca142 hallo! the difference with the stock diff 3.54 and 225/75/16? with 4.37 and 255/85/16 is like stock and a little bit shorter?
@@kostasdvr It's been a while since I had stock tires and gearing on this truck, but from memory (and math), 4.37 with 255/85 should be a little shorter than the stock setup.
Your gonna want Beefier steering arms bud.
Great video. I’m definitely doing a 35” tire. What do you think, 4.75s?
Yeah, the front one is already a little bent. Stronger ones are on the list, but I want to build them.
I think 4.37s could work for 35s. I just got done with 10 hours on the highway, and the revs are a tiny bit high for my worn 33s.
Lsd much easier than yr locker
Yeah the LSD is a simpler install, but not by much. Drilling the hole in the differential housing and running wires is the only added work for the e-locker.
I have the LSD for 10years with no problem...onvthe rear with no problem.
.I want to increase tyre size frm 32 inch to 35 inch...do I need to upgrade the pin or spiral gears
@@TheLandy786the LSD you have is probably strong enough for 35s, but if you have stock gears you’ll definitely want to replace them with a better ratio.