Think like a Patternmaker - The Importance of Measuring a Pattern Before You Sew
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- The worst thing ever! A pattern that's "your size", but the finished garment doesn't fit. That's why you should measure your patterns first, always.
When you measure your patterns before starting your sewing project, you lower the chances of getting an undesired outcome. It's a really simple prep task that can save you tons of frustration, so I highly recommend you do this step.
This video explains why measuring a pattern is crucial before cutting and sewing.
When selecting a pattern size, it's important to note that finished garment measurements can vary between brands and pattern makers.
Measuring the pattern accurately involves marking the seam allowances, ensuring all pattern pieces are taped together, and marking reference lines, such as the above bust line.
Measure both above bust and bust areas independently, as pattern makers may place these measurements differently. Measuring patterns ensures consistency and helps you choose the correct size, enhancing your sewing skills.
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Never underestimate measuring your patterns before starting sewing. Use your FREE Wearing Ease Calculator to determine your ease amounts. Download it here: www.grdmethod.com/think-like-a-patternmaker-the-importance-of-measuring-a-pattern-before-you-sew-free-ease-calculator
Thank for sending the Ease Calculator.
Is it a calculator, right?
Where to click to enter information and calculate?
I am unable to type on the downloaded calculator whether on my ipad or iphone.
@@Carol-wo3jo You'll want to open the calculator with Adobe Acrobat Reader. It's the best pdf reader and the calculations will work in that app. There is a free version of the app and that will work.
Never had total success with a blazer pattern. Found a good fitting one in a thrift store, unpicked the whole thing, pressed each piece, and made my own pattern. After making a few simple adjustments such as lengthening it, I made up a toile. Perfect fit! Now I’m on to the real thing without fearing it won’t fit or suit my body.
Great work! That's a great method to make a pattern from other styles.
I do the same thing. When patterns can cost $20 it is much less expensive to buy a used garment at a thrift store that fits well and take it apart.
My Mother always used this method to make our clothes.🙏☘️💚
I do this all the time haven’t bought a pattern in years
Just did this with a wool coat! Making new coats from other thrifted wool coats that are just large enough to cut to size. I’ve gotten more adventurous with a denim jacket collar. I’m not so certain about going with a lighter weight fabric for a spring coat. But you lr comment may just spur me on to try!
The "Mastering Garment Ease" course blew my mind! It connected the missing links in alot of little pieces of knowledge I've accumulated over the past several years of my fitting journey and I feel so much more confident. I love this course!
I'm so happy to hear that, Cheryl! You did such a fantastic job in the course and your results show for it!
I just recently got confident enough to start making my own bodice block and I never once thought to measure the pattern itself. What a game changer! I can't tell you how many times I thought I selected the right size/pattern but something was always slightly off. Thank you so much Gina!
I'm so glad this helped you! Congrats on making your own bodice block :)
After taking the Master the Garment Ease class I have made a habit. Measuring all patterns before tracing and cutting!
I'm so glad you have made this a habit Ilova! You did such a fantastic job in the Mastering Garment Ease course. Your results were great and it sounds like you're having continued success!
It’s only when you have used patterns from the Big Four that one realizes what you are saying is correct. I have had to make three or four garments before I get the fit correct. Since I did your moulage course I don’t have to do this anymore.
I'm so glad you "get it," Tracy. It's wonderful that since you took the moulage course I teach, you don't have to do this anymore!
I like Nancy Zieman's Pivot & Slide method of pattern fitting because it uses one measurement to determine the correct pattern size (based on across upper chest), so the neckline and shoulders always fit, and then one adjusts bust/waist/hips as needed, without slashing or changing the core pattern.
I've read her book and tried her method, but since patterns always have such huge differences in ease amounts, I found it very hard to trust the sizing that was given still. I'm glad it works for you.
I've branched from commercial patterns to drafting/draping and I'm so much happier with my finished projects. I always thought the problem was me or my body, not the pattern itself. When you order according to the pattern envelope and then the garment turns out badly, it's easy to think, "I did something wrong, I can't sew," or "Something's wrong with my body - bust too big, too curvy, hips not proportional, etc." Over time, I've learned I'm short-waisted and have a non-standard bust/waist ratio, and I need to make several adjustments to commercial patterns before even making a mockup. It's totally changed my mindset about how to fit clothing, and I'm so much happier when buying, altering and making clothing.
I can completely relate to what you are saying. It takes time to figure out those "differences" from our body shapes to the standard. Once we know the differences, it makes it so much easier to know what to look for in making pattern adjustments. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences with us!
Good for you on having that skill set! Wish I was that confident.
It's just practice and experimentation. I learned on thrift-store clothing and bed sheets. I tried lots of things that didn't work until I found stuff that did. It's a journey. But I find that I am willing to experiment a lot more when the stakes are very low, cost wise. Also, if you have something that fits well and makes you feel great, try to figure out why. Compare that garment to your patterns and see where the major differences are. That helps too. Good luck!
I will never forget the day in 1977 when a woman came into my workplace and said to me and my two co-workers "you girls all sew, dont you? Maybe you can help me."
She then proceeded to describe a problem with a garment she had made.
In unison, without any prompting, the three of us asked "is it a MCCall's pattern?"
The look on her face was priceless as we all burst into laughter,
It was a McCall's pattern. "That's your problem" one of the women said. We then traded McCall's pattern horror stories.
Five years later I needed to make dress slacks for my sons to wear to my sister's wedding.
All I could find for my sons, age 3 & 5, was a McCall's, so against my better judgement I bought it and made samples first. The results were hilarious clown pants, the rise was twice what it needed to be. It was so funny!! I was so glad I had made samples out of cheap remnants before cutting the expensive stuff!
Thank you so much now I am older?? I find I have problems in the Bust measurements. Thank you this is the best exclamation.
I'm glad it's a helpful explanation!
More encouragement to make my own bodice block.
I'll pay 25 cents for a pattern from a second hand shop so I can see how something works... but I can't imagine paying full or even sale price, for commercial patterns that I'm going to have to do this level of work to make fit me. AND they're not net, requiring extra effort for me to trace out the seam allowances before I can measure them...
Idk who thought it was easier to include seam allowance on patterns, so there's no stitching line to follow or measure off. Sure, with a net pattern you have to cut larger than the lines, but it's more forgiving than aligning your pieces wrong.
I can understand that. It can be a lot of effort making the pattern adjustments in order to make commercial patterns fit.
I also love going from block patterns and starting from a solid foundation from the beginning.
Thank you for this teaching ❤
It's my pleasure!
Wow! Just the info I needed. Never saw you before. Now substitute.
So glad you're subscribing! :)
I have fat upper arms so finding sleeves that fit or fitting sleeves for a self-made top has always been a problem. I finally got smart and took measurements off a garment that already fit me well in the upper arm (from a women suit), including measuring the armscyce. Now I use the measurements when I measure the pattern to see what adjustment I need to make.
That's such a great method, and I use that method too for figuring out the best ease amounts! You're ahead of the game :)
It’s been years since I have sewn garments and while I knew my size had changed (and I do measure patterns before cutting), I am struggling because of scoliosis that has caused the shape of my spine and neck to deteriorate over time. When each side of your body is different, it adds a new level of difficulty to pattern fitting.
You're definitely right. This does add a layer of complexity. My biggest recommendation for scoliosis is to fit to the side with the higher shoulder. Then, after you've perfected that side, pin the shoulder seam on the side with the lower shoulder and drop the armhole that same amount pinned. Usually, this ends up being a really good solution and gives a good fitting result for both sides. Plus, you can still use the same sleeve for both sides, since the armhole is still the same circumference.
THis was a great video! Thank you
I'm so glad you liked it!
Thank you So Much! I learned something new !
Glad it was helpful!
I have sewn for many years and have determined my wearing ease preferences from favorite RTW clothing and sewn garments. I have never thought to double check the measurement printed on patterns that provide garment and ease measurements, such as the big four patterns or Independent patterns. Since I sew mostly using traced BurdaStyle magazine patterns or draft my own using Mrs Stylebook Japanese pattern magazine and my sloper, I always do flat pattern measurements in key locations. Guess I need to do it as well on other patterns. Thanks for the tip!
That's fantastic that you have already determined your ease preferences from RTW! Sounds like you have a great process. It's always good to measure the pattern for consistency, since every person measures differently.
I know, me too. All of my clothes I've sewn have all been clones of RTW hanging in my closet. When I try to sew from a pattern, I'm lost.
@@solarwinds- That's such a great way to make patterns! That's exactly how I began my patternmaking journey, too. So glad that's working for you!
I am going to give this a try when I return fron vacation. I have gicen up on making my own clothes, nothing ever fit me right.
I'm glad you'll give this a try! I hope you have a wonderful vacation.
Thank you! I learned something new!
So glad to hear that!
This was so helpful!
I'm so glad it was helpful!
I would have loved to see you compare how measurements on the body relate to the pattern I struggled to follow what you were saying and I’ve been sewing for > 30 years.
Stay tuned for more videos in this series. I'll show how they relate as we go further along.
The thing that drives me absolutely crazy is the discrepancies between pattern sizes and retail garment sizes. An Australian size 12 waist on a Butterick pattern is 26”, whereas at a popular retailer in Australia it’s 31”. A 5” difference is huge! It’s also incredibly misleading that pattern makers and garment manufacturers can’t align and standardise their sizing.
I agree. There's a huge discrepancy between garment companies and pattern companies. There have been so many organizations that have tried to standardize measurements/sizing, but unfortunately, it's not enforced by regulations. Clothing companies target specific age groups, cultures, and types of customers, which all lead to different measurement data.
Nice
I got the ease calculator, but where on the website do you create an account? I can only find a log-in place, and you first have to have an account.
Hello! So glad you got the ease calculator. Only when someone places an order is an account created on the website. If you don't have any orders for sewing patterns or online courses, then there is no account needed.
Here is my question, please,: on those pattern tissues, with all of those lines, how do you know which ones are the ones you need? And which ones to use as cut lines? It's just so confusing.
Yes, that can be confusing. Usually, people follow the size indication listed on the back of the pattern according to their body measurements. Then you follow the size listed on the pattern and focus only on that set of lines for that size. It can be a bit tricky to capture the right line, but follow the number on the pattern within the lines. I always measure the pattern to compare it to my preferred ease standards before taking that size.
@@GinaRenee Thank you. That should help.
Gina, in this video did you add the seam allowance based on your size?
Most commercial and indie sewing patterns already have the seam allowances included. However, there are some in Europe that do not have the seam allowances. If the seam allowances are included, you must always mark those first and measure to the seam line for the accurate measurements. Then, if you make any pattern adjustments, you make the adjustments on the seam line. After all the corrections are done, you'll then add the seam allowances back to the pattern.
Does the ease measurement reflect a brassiere's cup size?
Usually, there is no ease in the cup. The cup size is determined based on the depth of the cup.
I've known that measuring the pattern is helpful in determining fit. But I'm not quite sure how that relates to actual pattern changes or how to apply it for my garment. So many of my test garments come out proportionally wrong on me ( usually too big) even though I used the finished size charts as the guide. Being on the shorter side also presents problems because so many of the pattern designers draft them for 5'6" - 5'9" models and I'm 5'2 1/2". Will you be providing more videos on this topic? Thank you!
Yes, I'll be sharing a whole series on how the pattern relates to the garment and body measurements for the main points of measure. Stay tuned to learn more!
Requested the freebie calculator but the form then says - Request exceeded limits? Don't sure how to go about downloading the calculator. Thank you.
If you entered your email address into the form, you should have received an email to confirm your email address. Then the download link is sent in the email. If you didn't get the email, please check your junk/spam folders or in gmail, check your promotions tab.
Is it a calculator, right?
Where to click to enter information?
You can go here to download the calculator: www.grdmethod.com/think-like-a-patternmaker-the-importance-of-measuring-a-pattern-before-you-sew-free-ease-calculator/
I did everything the web site asked me and still couldn't get my Free Ease calculator. Is this some sort of trick to get my information and send lots and lots of mails? If so, you just have to tell. I may do it
It's no trick. There are many people who have signed up for the free calculator and received it. The site was a bit overloaded, so maybe it took a few minutes for the email to send out. If you didn't get the email, please check your junk/spam folders or in gmail, check your promotions tab. If you still can't find it, please send me a message here with your info and I'll check it: www.ginareneedesigns.com/contact/
No wonder the big 4 pattern company patterns don't fit.
Yes, it's such an important thing to measure the patterns first!
👏🏻👗🧵
I can't get this at all.
In Europe, patterns are without seam allowance.
The nips and cuts are where they are supposed to be,
not loosely defined fraction of an inch outside.
So weird and so (sorry) stupid.
It sounds like your body shapes are likely close to the industry standards if you don't have many fitting issues. This is fantastic for you! Yes, the patterns in Europe don't have seam allowances. I live in Switzerland, and most patterns here do not have the seam allowances. It's different for each country and company. Since so many people buy Indie patterns now, many of those companies include seam allowances, and it must be considered if they are there.
Thank you ! I learned something new!
So happy to hear that!