Very useful info. As a relatively new woodturner, I'm always looking for new tips, tricks, and techniques that will make me better. Thanks for sharing!!👍🏾
Thanks, Daryll you have provided me with a solution to something I want to investigate in woodturning and I do not have to spend any money upfront to prove the concept.
Thanks Dread. That's much better than purchasing a new set of jaws (and then finding it didn't really holds your piece correctly!) I'm now inspired... Will try to make myself a small accessory chuck in oak. Great tips, by the way :)
I am making a cube within a cube on the lathe an will have to make a set of jaws to hold the 3x3 inch cube .this video is very helpful and I need to change slightly to accommodate the cube . Thanks very much.john
This is a great project that I need to get done. I like how you can use this for bracelets or pendants just by turning it to suit the purpose. Great idea Darryl.
There is at least one chuck, Masterchuck, that is designed to allow wooden jaws to be made and used like this. But I, too, have a Nova. My comments from my experience: At 1:40 you estimate the internal diameter of your 3" jaws. For best results, I do this with the jaws about 1mm (40 thou) apart, not touching one another. This is because Teknatool make them in a similar manner to how you are making your wooden jaws, so they are truly circular only at this setting. At 6:00 you seem to be turning the wooden jaws without them gripping anything (there seem to be gaps between your wooden jaws). On my Nova the chuck jaws are not rigid unless gripping something, so it would be dangerous and/or inaccurate to do this. In fact, Teknatool tell you not to spin the chuck without it gripping something (wood, usually). I suggest you either tighten the jaws or put something for the jaws to grip, such as shims between them. Four pieces of card would work. Tighten the jaws onto them before turning. I have made wooden jaws that screw directly to the jawslides, using the same size screws (M6) as the metal jaws. I am not sure if there are pros and cons to this approach.
First, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. While I do appreciate the feedback, I want to point out that the chuck is gripping the wooden jaws. The wooden jaws are screwed to the metal jaws and then the chuck is tightened. I did not bother to machine the faces between the wooden jaws perfectly flat as these are only intended for temporary use but they are in fact securely installed. I am not going to say that my every practice at the lathe is completely safe, but I do not share techniques that I feel are unsafe. In addition we all have to draw the line at what we are comfortable with in our own shops and decide what we will or will not incorporate into our workflow. There are several "safe" techniques out there that I won't try. so the short of it is this, if you don't feel comfortable doing this then don't, if you feel like you can make improvements do so, but don't feel like this is a commandment or a mandate of how to do something like this. Again, thanks for commenting.
@@DreadKnotWoodshop Thanks for replying. I said it seemed to me that there were gaps between the jaws when you turned the wooden ones, but evidently I was wrong. Sorry.
This tip comes from machine shop practices and should improve concentricity when turning those jaws. The goal here is to load the chuck jaws before taking a gouge to it. Use a large pipe clamp that will fit the diameter of the Nova jaws. The idea is to use the chuck key to open the chuck until it encounters back pressure from the pipe clamp. Then turn the step to size. This way the chuck's mechanism is under load when turning that step.. In lieu of a pipe clamp the turner can use a face plate to turn a plywood ring. Wakodahatchee Chris
Good morning , I'm using my "social distancing " time to catch up on old projects , including making some turning accessories. I'm finding your channel to have simple, practical and down to earth ideas. Have you thought about drilling holes and putting some rubber grommets in the jaws ? For a even "softer" grip ? Or even just in the holes of the mounting screws?
I find that the wood on wood joint is the best. Finding a rubber material that is soft/firm enough to prevent issues can be a real challenge. I have tried using things like this before and while not crushing fibers, have left hard to remove marks on workpieces.
Hi, thanks for the video, I am wanting to make some pen jaws and think this will work, do you have any advice on not making a complete tit of myself. Cheers.
I know that some have suggested making the jaws fit the jaw slides directly, but I think the little reinforcement you get from using the 100mm jaws makes a huge difference. Other than that go for it. I hope you will post your results somewhere in social media land.
Very useful info. As a relatively new woodturner, I'm always looking for new tips, tricks, and techniques that will make me better. Thanks for sharing!!👍🏾
Great way to do that! Bravo!
Great video for a much needed accessory
I have found these to be super useful
Thanks, Daryll you have provided me with a solution to something I want to investigate in woodturning and I do not have to spend any money upfront to prove the concept.
Really cool thing about these soft jaws is that they can be trued up to have almost 0 runout.
Thanks for taking the time to share this useful tip.
My to-do list has now gotten even longer.
Regards from Australia
Awesome video! I have been searching for something like this! Keep up the good work man!
You are a genius
Thank you so much!
Thanks Dread.
That's much better than purchasing a new set of jaws (and then finding it didn't really holds your piece correctly!)
I'm now inspired... Will try to make myself a small accessory chuck in oak.
Great tips, by the way :)
Thanks, I would love to see what you come up with.
I tried your idea for some peppermills I was turning. I made it a step one that would work for two diameters. It worked great. Thanks for the idea.
Very cool. Did knot know this was a thing that could be done. Very useful tip!!!!
Thanks Drew, I have been looking at these holes wonderung what to do with them for a long time.
Dread Knot Woodshop yea I have never thought about those before
This is awesome! Thanks for the sweet idea, this is going to make turning the bottoms of boxes much easier!
An excellent "how to" video Daryll, I can see they are going to be used often by you my friend :)
Take care
Mike
Thanks Mike, they have come in handy several times already.
This was a really good video. I do metal work and I like the idea. Thanks for the video.
Just found your site and rung the bell. Nice video, thanks.
I am making a cube within a cube on the lathe an will have to make a set of jaws to hold the 3x3 inch cube .this video is very helpful and I need to change slightly to accommodate the cube . Thanks very much.john
Excellent idea! I will be sharing this with others. It also gives me ideas for similar jam chuck needs, like spheres and eggs.
Well done this is going to help me a lot I’ve only limited tools but this addition is great thanks for sharing
This is a great project that I need to get done. I like how you can use this for bracelets or pendants just by turning it to suit the purpose. Great idea Darryl.
Fan-Tastic Jam Chuck and excellent video, thank you
Awesome... so many possibilities!
Yes indeed! There are so many!
Great video. I wonder though if any jaws with accessory holes are available for the Record Power SC3 chuck?
good idea .I will use this idea for ring making project .
Excellent thank you
Miguel
This was the exact info I was looking for. Thanks for making it
Excellent idea, thank you
Thanks, it has really been a big help for me.
That’s a brilliant idea. Thank You for sharing it with us.
Thanks bro!
That's awesome. Love the DIY stuff!
Thank you Franklin! I also love the DIY stuff, there is just something special about making your own tools and accessories.
Thinking of this idea, but doing them with an internal recess as soft jaws.
Nice job 👍
Good thinking, great tool. Thanks.
Thank you. Very informative.
Great idea.
Great idea. Thx
what a great idea! i will be making a set!
Thanks, I would love to see pics when you do.
Thank you for the great video. I subscribed and I like your idea. I don’t have a chuck yet but I’ll have one soon.
Thanks for Sharing!!!
Thanks for watching!
Great information Thanks
very informative
Super idea. Your link to the 100mm jaws goes to the chuck w/50mm jaws.
Sorry about that, I will get that fixed. Thanks for pointing it out
Very useful! Thanks man! :)
Thanks Matt!
There is at least one chuck, Masterchuck, that is designed to allow wooden jaws to be made and used like this. But I, too, have a Nova. My comments from my experience:
At 1:40 you estimate the internal diameter of your 3" jaws. For best results, I do this with the jaws about 1mm (40 thou) apart, not touching one another. This is because Teknatool make them in a similar manner to how you are making your wooden jaws, so they are truly circular only at this setting.
At 6:00 you seem to be turning the wooden jaws without them gripping anything (there seem to be gaps between your wooden jaws). On my Nova the chuck jaws are not rigid unless gripping something, so it would be dangerous and/or inaccurate to do this. In fact, Teknatool tell you not to spin the chuck without it gripping something (wood, usually). I suggest you either tighten the jaws or put something for the jaws to grip, such as shims between them. Four pieces of card would work. Tighten the jaws onto them before turning.
I have made wooden jaws that screw directly to the jawslides, using the same size screws (M6) as the metal jaws. I am not sure if there are pros and cons to this approach.
First, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. While I do appreciate the feedback, I want to point out that the chuck is gripping the wooden jaws. The wooden jaws are screwed to the metal jaws and then the chuck is tightened. I did not bother to machine the faces between the wooden jaws perfectly flat as these are only intended for temporary use but they are in fact securely installed. I am not going to say that my every practice at the lathe is completely safe, but I do not share techniques that I feel are unsafe. In addition we all have to draw the line at what we are comfortable with in our own shops and decide what we will or will not incorporate into our workflow. There are several "safe" techniques out there that I won't try. so the short of it is this, if you don't feel comfortable doing this then don't, if you feel like you can make improvements do so, but don't feel like this is a commandment or a mandate of how to do something like this. Again, thanks for commenting.
@@DreadKnotWoodshop Thanks for replying. I said it seemed to me that there were gaps between the jaws when you turned the wooden ones, but evidently I was wrong. Sorry.
@@chrislusbytaylor3197 No prob. Like I said, I really appreciate the feedback.
Hello
I looked up on Amazon, the Nova chuck in your comments. It is no longer available. Do you have another chuck you can suggest?
Skip
awesome video. Incredibly helfpul
This tip comes from machine shop practices and should improve concentricity when turning those jaws. The goal here is to load the chuck jaws before taking a gouge to it. Use a large pipe clamp that will fit the diameter of the Nova jaws. The idea is to use the chuck key to open the chuck until it encounters back pressure from the pipe clamp. Then turn the step to size. This way the chuck's mechanism is under load when turning that step.. In lieu of a pipe clamp the turner can use a face plate to turn a plywood ring.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Good morning , I'm using my "social distancing " time to catch up on old projects , including making some turning accessories. I'm finding your channel to have simple, practical and down to earth ideas. Have you thought about drilling holes and putting some rubber grommets in the jaws ? For a even "softer" grip ? Or even just in the holes of the mounting screws?
I find that the wood on wood joint is the best. Finding a rubber material that is soft/firm enough to prevent issues can be a real challenge. I have tried using things like this before and while not crushing fibers, have left hard to remove marks on workpieces.
👍👍👍
Hi, thanks for the video, I am wanting to make some pen jaws and think this will work, do you have any advice on not making a complete tit of myself. Cheers.
I know that some have suggested making the jaws fit the jaw slides directly, but I think the little reinforcement you get from using the 100mm jaws makes a huge difference. Other than that go for it. I hope you will post your results somewhere in social media land.
BRO !! Great vids !! BUTT..... the elevator music and your monotone voice overs could put a shot of expresso to sleep !!!! dang bro ZZZZZZZZ
Thanks for.watching and providing valuable.feedback.