Unfortunately it is just a normal standard profile, it doesn't actually look like Provia, I shoot Provia all the time and it has its own very unique character. In terms of saturation it is not as high as Velvia but I love how it makes blues and yellows look and it also a very cool toned film, its magnificent especially for long nighttime exposures.
tallaganda83 I think it makes more sense to look at the Fuji film simulations are inspired by their namesnakes, not exact replicas. And in either case: I strongly disagree the Provia film simulation is just standard, it certainly has a look and a vibe (not saying that vibe is the exact same as actual Provia slide film.)
@@StevenPennyphotography provia is one of the best films for long exposures with its reciprocity failure kicking in at 12 seconds and during hour or more exposures it has a blue cast with exaggerates the sky and makes the stars pop more
we did not scan it ourselves, but we used Richard's Photo Lab in Santa Clarita. I believe they use Frontier. www.richardphotolab.com/blog/post/its-back-noritsu-vs-frontier
Portra 160 is very desaturated. I think Portra 400 is the most beautiful negativ film there is. It’s color reproduction is just excellent. It’s colorful and still very accurate.
The Slanted Lens Yes but Portra 400 and Kodak Ektar would have been much better suited for this kind of comparison. Especially because you keep complaining about Portra 160 despite the fact that it's in no way meant for the same applications Velvia and Provia are meat for. You should have done Portra 400 in comparison with Provia because it's an all rounder stock with emphasis on portraits like Provia. And Ektar in comparison with Velvia for obvious reasons.
Great video as usual, I really like these comparison videos because they're very useful because these tests would be very hard to replicate for most people and I appreciate the fact that you take the time not only to make them but also to share them with us. I'd love to shoot more trasparency but it's too expensive both to buy and develop except here where I live. But I shoot film often and I have to say that I agree with you about the Portra, I mean I realy love it because because it has an amazing dynamic range but it has its look and it's not always right for the result you want to achieve. When I shoot color beside the Portra my favorite film to use are the Kodak Ektar 100 because it's more contrasty and has more saturated colors but my all time favorite is the Fuji Pro 400h, I honestly love it. I really like the Provia it looks amazing I'd like to shoot some rolls but as I said it's very expensive to develop them around here.
It's so great to get insights from people that have so much history with film! I only used it in point and shoot cameras back in the day, but now I'm shooting a Mamiya 645 Pro and love the results I get with both Provia and Portra. Cant wait to try Velvia :)
Another point to make with Provia and Velvia is that you can make your own slides, hold them up to the light and keep them in a box. Something digital cannot provide. They will still be there to look at in 50 years. I have boxes of Kodachrome slides from the 1960s. I doubt our digital files will last that long.
There have been colour film emulsions that have faded to nothing over the years. Fortunately Kodachrome was not one of them. Almost all black & white film has also proven to be very robust in standing the test of time. Some of the old Agfa films were notorious for disappearing, as were some Kodak films. Scientists have not have the technology to predict longevity in film until fairly recently. Modern film stocks should be long-lasting as a result. Great video and amazing model by the way!!
Velvia just does it for me, it's saturated, it's vibrant, it's just gorgeous. Also for some reason, I don't mind the blown up highlights and the muted shadows either. I think the film's character is acting how it should be, and that to me is the strength of not only Velvia but of all films. They all have a distinctive way of rendering everything.
Thanks for doing the comparison. It's amazing how much color cast shows in the Provia. Who wants that unless you want "purple mountain majesty?" Velvia comes in flavors, 50, 100 & 100F. The 100F is supposedly better for skin tones. Your scanner is of course set differently when you scan positives and negatives and it looks like a touch of saturation was needed for the Provia. It would be interesting to see the slides actually projected on screen to avoid digital influence. Of course, only you could see that.
Portra’s tones and saturation really work when its rated about 1.5-2 stops slower than box speed. Overexposing with negative film is usually no problem at all. You get a higher desity negative (i.e. more bigger silver crystals). Slide film must always be dead on. Its total range is only about 1-1.5 stops.
Ah, the wonderful days of liquid photography! Brings back a whole flow of past history (pun intended). Might be interesting for digital people to realize what working with film was, back when digital wasn't even experimental and scanners were huge and used almost exclusively by the newspaper industry or very high quality photofinishing outfits. Transparency films always had very tight exposure requirements, but you could fudge somewhat with negative films. And there were so very many films from which to choose the exact results you were seeking. Transparencies were more often for projection purposes, less often for printing and with projection you didn't have any adjustments available (at least I didn't) other than what was called "push processing" to chemically accept higher ASA (now ISO) values. Prints from negatives went into enlargers; no scanners involved, no computers available, either. My introduction to digital was cathartic because with film it was all about dealing with variables during the shoot: working with lighting, careful exposure (especially for transparencies), and then darkroom work was detailed using dodging, burning, internegatives, and more. But with digital it seemed the variables were greater in quantity and very different from film, more often confronted in post-production. There is a lot more to say, but this is too long already.
Even though I knew that negative film has high dynamic range but why these photos all looks properly exposed from -3 stops to +3 stops? Did you do any post processing? That brings me to a question that what if I just want the photo to look way under/over exposed? 😂
My experience with slide film, is that the blacks are so dense, that shadow detail gets lost because of the scanner. I routinely underexpose slide film by 1/3 to 2/3 stop, which gives good results when projecting but doesn't look good when scanning. I wonder if the details that got lost in your examples, are actually still visible when projecting the megaslides. Was there any shadow detail visible when you look at the transparencies with a big light behind them?
Hi Jay P. Nice to see the comparisons, I'm testing out all of these right now. I've just shot my first Provia, it's been many years since I shot slide film though I used to shoot Kodachrome and Ectachrome back in the day so I'm catching up again. I was surprised at how nice the Provia was when I nailed the exposure, the colours really pop. FYI, I also lived in Banff for nearly 20 years, so I really enjoyed this video. Cheers sir!
I have always thought Portra was over rated after I shot a roll and wasn't too impressed, colours look flat. I started shooting Provia this year and the colours are amazing. I find it leans on blueish tones so when you shoot a clear blue sky, the blue really pops without being too unrealistic like Velvia. I really think together with Kodak Ektar, Provia is the best film available today, yet no one ever talks about it. So thank you for highlighting this wonderful film. I have heard rumours that Fuji have stopped making film, I hope this isn't true. And it will be interesting to compare Provia to the new Ektachrome film when it becomes available.
I'm curious how you metered on the Banff photos. Did you meter the snow and bump it up, or simply take an incident reading from where you were standing?
I'm with you on Provia. As a general purpose transparency film, it's hard to beat. This is how I would use these three films: Portra - people; Provia - general photography; Velvia - subdued lighting landscapes. Portra provides excellent skin tones. Portra is somewhat contrasty, but has a decent exposure range. Velvia is unforgiving, but gives you beautiful reds, greens and blues. I's also contrastier than the other two films by design. Film is like cameras....they are just tools to use to create something specific. You don't use a hammer to cut wood. You don't use Velvia to take portraits. Learn what the films are designed for and use them accordingly. I would have liked to have seen Ektar used to compare with the transparency films. That would be a more even comparison in my opinion. Overall, a great comparison video! I'm really happy to see you doing videos on film, because as you've said, film is not dead. There's still a market for film and it's making a resurgence. I'd love to see a comparison of Provia and Ektachrome when Kodak re-releases that film stock.
Nice video - these comparisons are great for people new to film but I think it's important for anyone viewing these to remember that the scans on the negative film are very subjective and rely heavily on the scanner and the scanner operator's interpretation of what the image should look like. I own a Fuji Frontier scanner and my Portra scans look nothing like these nor have I seen Portra scans as flat and dull as these. However ten different labs will give you ten different negative scans. Of course each negative film stock has its own look - you know Pro400h will give you one look with a pastel look with more greens and Ektar 100 will give you another with reds that pop but within that one stock the scanning can vastly effect the outcome. Portra is much better looking than these scans here would indicate.
The Slanted Lens what were these scanned on? For colour neg and transparency I find that any flatbed will not really give great results. These look like a flatbed.
I just got my first Olympus OM2 and I am planning to shoot landscape slides. Thank you for the comparison, I will try Provia (I like the colours better) and Velvia (everyone recommends it for landscapes).
Could you be more specific with what is a high dynamic range photo? What's the EV difference between the highlights and shadows? Also how did you metered these pictures? Is it always for midtones? Just so we could have a better idea when metering.
way back when,,, 1980s for me... The most expensive way, but the absolute best larger size prints came from shooting slide film, and then having them used to have large prints made from them. everything was much more vibrant and clear. But cost per print was enormous, compared to just Ektar 125 35mm film ( super-finicky film they discontinued, but when you got it right, it was as good as slide to print, prints. even at 20x30 inch prints) ANYWAYS, thanks for making me feel older... DAMN IT Jay P. !!! :-)
USAthe ROCK I think the major drawback of film and the reason why many people don't do it is because of cost. Which is too bad because the results are amazing.
of course, and now that the larger format cameras are available so cheap, compared to the cost of large format back in the film days, it's easy to make the switch to film. BUT FOR ME, i wouldnt go back to film. The chance of missing the shot, and not knowing I had missed the shot until I get my negatives back,,,, NOPE Never again The stress alone of waiting to see 20- 50 rolls of film to affirm the shots are good is too stressful for me. I'd rather have the instant gratification of seeing i got the shot right then and there. Plus, digital is beautiful as well. Film has a uniqueness about it. But I am okay with 100% digital.
very true, but redundancy of two media cards, printing to each, or wireless to laptop, or tethering with wires, can be used to avoid that. With film, best we can do is bracket, use two bodies grab some pics of everything with each camera, and pray. :)
If you were planning a basic photography class today, would you consider requiring students to shoot film as a major method to teach? Not as a replacement for digital, but to enhance the pleasure of film, as well as emphasize the importance of capturing the image as best you can before post-production.
it's a great way to learn the fundamentals. it's not just for nostalgia but it's a good way to learn the basics of photography and give you a good foundation
@@TheSlantedLens I am a film fan :) I have some provia in my fridge right now waiting for this stupid pandemic to end so i can take my zeiss ikon out and shoot it.
Really enjoyed this comparison, thanks for making it. The only one of these I haven't shoot in 120 form is the Provia but I really like your results with the model. With the landscapes, I think the blues on the Velvia 100 are just unmatched, and even more so with the Velvia 50. Shame about the narrow DR but when you nail it and you first open the dev. tank after processing, you look at it and for a moment feel like you never want to shoot anything else again : )
KoenigF50 thanks for your comments! We are happy that this has helped you see the difference between these film stocks! Hopefully you can share your photos on our Facebook page when you're done!
I am interested in knowing more about slide film, when projected on a clear plain wall with the curtains closed and the lights turned off, what aspect ratio are the photos displayed at.
it's really case by case. each gives a particularly unique representation of each scene, which is wonderful. and a LOT of it has to do with the scanning process. scanning in itself is an art (or at least a skill).
The Provia with strong highlights looks like it has a red cast in most of the pictures. Her white dress was pink, the mountain highlights were pink. But it really sings with even light. Portra 160 seems happier at 100; becomes less pastel. I'd love to see this again with Ektachrome 100, Ektar 100 and Velvia 100 . Portra 400 is also really interesting that it's almost as forgiving with skin tones as 160, but if you pull it a stop or two (or 3!) , the colors do punch up noticeably.
I shot some 35mm provia but I'm having a hard time scanning it due to the fact that I can't seem to get the colors right in Silverfast Ai Studio. Is it absolutely necessary to get one of those calibration slides to scan provia or velvia?
I had the same problem. I stopped using the calibration slide and just let my scanner figure out the best settings itself. (Epsom perfection scanner). This works perfectly
Good video!! And I agree that Provia 100F is hard to beat. The wide exposure latitude of Portra (or most any C-41 film) comes at the cost of low contrast. Even correctly exposed, Portra looks washed out compared to the high contrast of slide films. But the high contrast of Provia (or now Kodak E100) makes it more difficult to meter and expose correctly. All this can be easily seen in a film's exposure/density curve graph. Both Kodak and Fuji publish these charts for all of their films. The steeper the graph the higher the contrast and color "pop," but also the more difficult to expose correctly. Films with more gently sloping curves will have higher exposure forgiveness but less contrast, making them look dullish.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You are correct and that is why transparency film was always the choice for commercial photography. But you have to know what you are doing.
Provia100F wins in all shots. When I shoot portra, i shoot the 400 stock. I've shot a portrait session on velvia recently and oh boy, if the shot wasnt overexposed, skin tones look yucky. I do shoot Provia more often now for Portraits, develop my own at home on E-6 chems. Cant wait for Kodak to relaunch Ektachrome already. Great video and comparisons by the way.
Slide film wins out for me, the resolution and sharpness you get from something like Velvia 50 or Provia 100F is far better than any colour negative, and looking at transparencies on a light table is an irreplaceable experience than nothing comes close to, yeah the exposure is fussy but if you get it right it's amazing. Also, Velvia 50 is way nicer than Velvia 100. Really excited for that new Ektachrome.
Do you think that Ektar 100 would have been another appropriate negative film to try in this scenario in addition to or in place of the Portra 160? I ask because Ektar, like the slide films has warmer overall tones and is also more likely to be used for landscapes than portraits?
ldstirling yeah ektar is a great film! We are thinking about doing this sort of tests for black and white films! Check out our 13 films compared for more!
Emerald Leong thanks for the reply! I have watched the Black and White film comparison several times recently and thought it was great. It has prompted my decision to try several different new film stocks.
In the Fuji digital world they provide these film simulations in camera. So thank you for further insight. I realize these simulations come from the film days. They also let us play with the Dynamic Range 100, 200 and 400 in camera. How would that work together with selecting these film simulations. For example, would 400 be for brighter ambient light or darker? Thank you for sharing. Always enjoy your videos. Ric
Hi Ric, I used to own a Fuji X100s for several years. Shooting the film simulations only applies to jpeg's, as the raw will be interpreted by your software per the usual. So, when you shoot jpeg only, the challenge is that you're baking in your gamma curve for the image. So in a high contrast scene, if anything blows out or is underexposed, then it's gone forever because you don't have the latitude of raw to help bring it back. When shooting raw, a popular technique is to underexpose the image a little in order to protect the highlights from blowing out, and in post you simply boost the exposure of the shadows to balance the image out. Shooting jpeg you can't do that. So setting the DR to 200 or 400 is actually telling your Fuji to underexpose the image by 1 or 2 stops and brighten the shadows to compensate before compressing the image to jpeg and writing it to your card. It's basically doing all he post-work in camera and increasing the dynamic range of your jpeg images by 1 or 2 stops. If you're shooting film simulation jpegs in scenes with plenty of light, I would use DR 400. If you're in a low light situation, switch back to 100 so that the camera doesn't underexpose the images.
Yes you can most certainly tell the difference between the real film Provia and the film simulation. Personally, I don't think the film simulations are anything like the actual films. It's just what Fuji calls their colour profiles to make the consumer think they are getting Film looking images. But I think it's impossible to get digital to look exactly like film. And if I did want the film look, I would rather just shoot the real thing.
Dynamic range has less to do with the brightness of the scene, but is about the RANGE of tones present from dark to bright. Setting your Fuji to a higher dynamic range will allow you to deal with higher contrast situations, such as shooting into the light. The penalty is that these higher dynamic range settings require a higher ISO, with the risk of some additional noise. (X-pro2 shooter).
Fantastic video, very useful for film photographers. :) For what it's worth, I liked the Portra more than you. I know you have vastly more experience than I do, but Portra And Post Production is a beautiful thing. So is T-Max And Post. So versatile! The Provia is rockin though, thanks for a great tutorial.
Hey David, thanks for checking out our video! Glad you thought it was useful. Everyone has their opinions on what is best and there's no right or wrong answer! It just depends on what you're into. Have you checked out our other film videos?
Ahoy. I had some Provia cross processed as C41 recently, and got lovely results. By the time I scanned and colour-corrected it the end result looked like Portra but with a bit more oomph. How about a cross-processing review, comparing with transparency processing and C41 film?
Provia looks so good in almost all of them. I hate when I shoot and something really punchy red, like that dress, turns out magenta and pale. I often find it a little bit difficult to work with that pale magenta in post too, usually it doesn't turn out like a natural red, for me at least. EDIT: Sky doesn't look very good in the provia though, so might want to avoid that I guess.
I actually liked the Velvia 100 underexposed by two stops. I would've liked to see more of this, but otherwise great video, thank you! I will try both Provia and Velvia.
This was great. The red dress examples really hit the mark don't they. I've been a keen user of Provia for a long time. Even prefer it over Ektachrome I think. Your video was a great demo of how Velvia CAN be used for portrait work too in the right settings. Be great to see something like this with Ektachrome thrown in :-)
This model is gorgeous. And overall the Provia is simply incredible. A shame Fujifilm seems to be ever so slowly pulling out of the film game. Their color science is second to none.
In my mind the best all-round print (negative) film ever is Fuji Superia 100. Small grain, beautiful colours, good dynamic range, and the best thing of all, it was CHEAP! Sadly, it's been discontinued a few years back...
There is something wrong with the portra 160 scanning profile. The dress has a slight push to green, which I suspect is also causing the skin to look off.
Hey JP great recommendations, as always. Not sure if you have done a video recently to show how to shot film cameras. If not, could you do one with some tips? Thanks
The Slanted Lens Yes, I meant a video explaining the different intrecacies of shooting with film cameras. Obviously anyone should be able to shot film cameras, but today I learned how different films can have more dynamic range. So I wonder what else is there for shooting with film cameras as a system in general that I or others are not aware of.
good comparison, interesting and helpful! Better then your video about 13 filmstocks, I think in Black and White Film we must not discuss about l little bit more contrast, cause this makes the print / lightroom. But this over/underexposing and the totally different color makes really a difference.
I am pretty sure the slide films look pretty good projected with a regular analog viewer but gets ruined in the scan process. That is, the film itself holds pretty much shadow/highlight details but needs multiple scans to cover the whole dynamic range and not get chrushed blacks and whites. What would happen if you did this? (Perhaps the whole point with film gets lost but thats another discussion)
My favourite Fuji film was Astia. I preferred the Kodak E100 films. Don’t think Kodak has re-released it in 120 sadly. Provia never let you down though.
Do you know, in this day and age your knowledge is invaluable? Thank you very much for sharing your skills with us. Incidentally, do you know with your side by side examples, you can cross your eyes and see a 3D Stereoscopic image? 😊 You can. That's what I like, 3D photos. I have a good DSLR and very nice vintage lenses, and I'm interested in taking some slides. (For 3D)
If you have a lightmeter, take a reading of the blacks and the whites in a shot and if there's more than 5 stops, maximum 6 stops difference, use nd filter and if that is unavailable, then just don't use slide, use film. As a rule of thumb, only use Velvia with landscapes or scenes that don't involve human skin.
interesting and valuable perspectives. I've sensed for a long time that the discipline from the pre-digital age which you are rediscovering is something that in the Digital Age can be a defining skill. I remember back in the 60s and 70s Contact sheets were the essential element of a professional workflow. Personally, I preferred Color Slides and previewing those images on a projector taking notes, and then pulling the 'Keepers' into sleeves. Before Digital, especially with Medium Format, I usually shot Kodachrome or Ektachrome for color prints because I used to get really punchy and dynamic images, and now with the ability to easily Macro-shoot transparences how about color transparency film for color and B&W conversion? Might be interesting to compare to Digital images.
Thanks for this, i have never shot slide film so it is interesting to see. But if i am totally honest i much prefer the Kodak Portra film stock for my tastes and style, well if i am not shooting black&white that is
Richard Rollinson - My Analog Life everyone has their preference. With slide film you just have to remember to expose properly. You don't get the latitude that you do with color negative
Thank you for this video on film (especially, comparison with transperancy film)! Please, keep on making your film series in the future. I'm so tired of "digital" look of photos that nowadays can be seen everywhere. Also, try to compare another great transperancy film, Velvia 50. It is regarded better than Velvia 100. This film is in my camera now :)
I think it would make more sense to compare the slides with Ektar 100 instead of Portra 160. Anyway, that’s a great vid, enjoyed a lot watching this. Cheers!
Emerald Leong hi. For me the Kodak Ektar 100 suits better this comparison because it has the same speed and more importantly the colors you get from Ektar are more vibrant and saturated, similar to what you get in the slides. Just my opinion tho. I don’t have much experience with slides.
When I shot film exclusively my favorite film was Provia. But I would like to see what Kodak Ektar could do since it has a higher contrast than Portra.
Yeah we've had some previous comments about the Kodak Ektar. I'll definitely put it on my radar for our next film shoot! We have a new series coming out about film, so stay subscribed for that!
I do but unfortunately I cannot share it because these are personal portrait photos of me and my loved ones. But I can explain it. What was happening there was incandescent bulbs lighting up from the left side of the room but on the right side of the room it was a bit dark. So I decided to put the speedlight on the right side of the room while the subjects were in the middle of the room next to the wall. I placed a light orange color gel for white balance. I did try different ways of angling the speedlight head with a built-in diffuser pulled out on top of the head and one of the angles included a pulled out bounce card on the speedlight. So I varied the style of lighting when it comes harshness by experimenting with it. The Nikon F5 was set on Program Mode while the Nikon SB-800 was set on TTL with a TTL cable hooked up between the Speedlight and the Camera. The Nikon Camera was on a tripod while the Speedlight was on a monopod with the small legs extended out. I hooked a wired Nikon Trigger to the camera so their won’t be any camera shake. The Nikon Camera was set at Box Speed of ISO 800 with the Portra 800. At the end of the shoot and having it developed, it turned out to be a good shoot. Peace, Flood of Flood Production!
As the (female) human eye/brain could distinguish 10 billion color nuances and/or gradations, and film gets to 1 billion, every type of film chooses where to omit and how. This is the "character". We can imagine one type of film to be able to reproduce A, B or C skintones better than another. Historically ... Africa Masai country - Kodachrome. Indonesia lush green desa rice farms - old Fuji. Slightly warm studio portraits - Kodacolor with Zeiss glass. Cooler studio work - Ektacolor professional. Very contrasty artsy work - Cibachrome.
Marco Esteban Zarikian we did think about it...and decided to go with portra. But ektar is a great film! Check out our film freeway playlist for more comparisons
Now I know why Fujifilm digital cameras have the Provia film simulation as the “standard” one!
Unfortunately it is just a normal standard profile, it doesn't actually look like Provia, I shoot Provia all the time and it has its own very unique character. In terms of saturation it is not as high as Velvia but I love how it makes blues and yellows look and it also a very cool toned film, its magnificent especially for long nighttime exposures.
tallaganda83 I think it makes more sense to look at the Fuji film simulations are inspired by their namesnakes, not exact replicas. And in either case: I strongly disagree the Provia film simulation is just standard, it certainly has a look and a vibe (not saying that vibe is the exact same as actual Provia slide film.)
@@tallaganda83 Is Provia good for long exposure night sky shots? Star trails etc
@@StevenPennyphotography provia is one of the best films for long exposures with its reciprocity failure kicking in at 12 seconds and during hour or more exposures it has a blue cast with exaggerates the sky and makes the stars pop more
Did you scan the film yourself or have a service do it? If you did it, any info on the scanner?
we did not scan it ourselves, but we used Richard's Photo Lab in Santa Clarita. I believe they use Frontier. www.richardphotolab.com/blog/post/its-back-noritsu-vs-frontier
Portra 160 is very desaturated. I think Portra 400 is the most beautiful negativ film there is. It’s color reproduction is just excellent. It’s colorful and still very accurate.
thanks for checking out our video! there's a lot of different films out there and it just comes down to personal preference.
The Slanted Lens Yes but Portra 400 and Kodak Ektar would have been much better suited for this kind of comparison. Especially because you keep complaining about Portra 160 despite the fact that it's in no way meant for the same applications Velvia and Provia are meat for. You should have done Portra 400 in comparison with Provia because it's an all rounder stock with emphasis on portraits like Provia. And Ektar in comparison with Velvia for obvious reasons.
Great video as usual, I really like these comparison videos because they're very useful because these tests would be very hard to replicate for most people and I appreciate the fact that you take the time not only to make them but also to share them with us.
I'd love to shoot more trasparency but it's too expensive both to buy and develop except here where I live.
But I shoot film often and I have to say that I agree with you about the Portra, I mean I realy love it because because it has an amazing dynamic range but it has its look and it's not always right for the result you want to achieve. When I shoot color beside the Portra my favorite film to use are the Kodak Ektar 100 because it's more contrasty and has more saturated colors but my all time favorite is the Fuji Pro 400h, I honestly love it. I really like the Provia it looks amazing I'd like to shoot some rolls but as I said it's very expensive to develop them around here.
thanks for your comment! ektachrome 100 was the film I used a lot. You can't get it these days, but I loved it so much!!
It's so great to get insights from people that have so much history with film! I only used it in point and shoot cameras back in the day, but now I'm shooting a Mamiya 645 Pro and love the results I get with both Provia and Portra. Cant wait to try Velvia :)
Minsan Sauers woo! #filmisnotdead share your photos with us on our Facebook page
Done! :-)
Another point to make with Provia and Velvia is that you can make your own slides, hold them up to the light and keep them in a box. Something digital cannot provide. They will still be there to look at in 50 years. I have boxes of Kodachrome slides from the 1960s. I doubt our digital files will last that long.
Hey Fonejacker, that's a great point with film.
Thanks for watching!
There have been colour film emulsions that have faded to nothing over the years. Fortunately Kodachrome was not one of them. Almost all black & white film has also proven to be very robust in standing the test of time. Some of the old Agfa films were notorious for disappearing, as were some Kodak films. Scientists have not have the technology to predict longevity in film until fairly recently. Modern film stocks should be long-lasting as a result.
Great video and amazing model by the way!!
Velvia just does it for me, it's saturated, it's vibrant, it's just gorgeous. Also for some reason, I don't mind the blown up highlights and the muted shadows either. I think the film's character is acting how it should be, and that to me is the strength of not only Velvia but of all films. They all have a distinctive way of rendering everything.
Yeah definitely a beautiful film to shoot with. Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Have you seen our other film videos?
Thanks for doing the comparison. It's amazing how much color cast shows in the Provia. Who wants that unless you want "purple mountain majesty?" Velvia comes in flavors, 50, 100 & 100F. The 100F is supposedly better for skin tones. Your scanner is of course set differently when you scan positives and negatives and it looks like a touch of saturation was needed for the Provia. It would be interesting to see the slides actually projected on screen to avoid digital influence. Of course, only you could see that.
Portra’s tones and saturation really work when its rated about 1.5-2 stops slower than box speed. Overexposing with negative film is usually no problem at all. You get a higher desity negative (i.e. more bigger silver crystals). Slide film must always be dead on. Its total range is only about 1-1.5 stops.
Ah, the wonderful days of liquid photography! Brings back a whole flow of past history (pun intended). Might be interesting for digital people to realize what working with film was, back when digital wasn't even experimental and scanners were huge and used almost exclusively by the newspaper industry or very high quality photofinishing outfits. Transparency films always had very tight exposure requirements, but you could fudge somewhat with negative films. And there were so very many films from which to choose the exact results you were seeking. Transparencies were more often for projection purposes, less often for printing and with projection you didn't have any adjustments available (at least I didn't) other than what was called "push processing" to chemically accept higher ASA (now ISO) values. Prints from negatives went into enlargers; no scanners involved, no computers available, either. My introduction to digital was cathartic because with film it was all about dealing with variables during the shoot: working with lighting, careful exposure (especially for transparencies), and then darkroom work was detailed using dodging, burning, internegatives, and more. But with digital it seemed the variables were greater in quantity and very different from film, more often confronted in post-production. There is a lot more to say, but this is too long already.
great reading! thanks for your insight! Did you check out our film freeway playlist?
Even though I knew that negative film has high dynamic range but why these photos all looks properly exposed from -3 stops to +3 stops? Did you do any post processing? That brings me to a question that what if I just want the photo to look way under/over exposed? 😂
My experience with slide film, is that the blacks are so dense, that shadow detail gets lost because of the scanner. I routinely underexpose slide film by 1/3 to 2/3 stop, which gives good results when projecting but doesn't look good when scanning.
I wonder if the details that got lost in your examples, are actually still visible when projecting the megaslides. Was there any shadow detail visible when you look at the transparencies with a big light behind them?
thanks for your comments. i'll have to look at them!
It is possible to recover detail by scanning at different exposures and blending. You have to get the scan alignment right, though.
Hi Jay P. Nice to see the comparisons, I'm testing out all of these right now. I've just shot my first Provia, it's been many years since I shot slide film though I used to shoot Kodachrome and Ectachrome back in the day so I'm catching up again. I was surprised at how nice the Provia was when I nailed the exposure, the colours really pop. FYI, I also lived in Banff for nearly 20 years, so I really enjoyed this video. Cheers sir!
john murch Hey it was great hearing about your experience! Have you checked out our other comparison video on 13 film stocks?
Thanks for the tip, checking it now...
john murch yeah it's a new series that we started! It's been really popular.
I'd love to see a similar comparison with Provia and Velvia and replace Portra 160 with Ektar 100.
I have always thought Portra was over rated after I shot a roll and wasn't too impressed, colours look flat. I started shooting Provia this year and the colours are amazing. I find it leans on blueish tones so when you shoot a clear blue sky, the blue really pops without being too unrealistic like Velvia. I really think together with Kodak Ektar, Provia is the best film available today, yet no one ever talks about it. So thank you for highlighting this wonderful film. I have heard rumours that Fuji have stopped making film, I hope this isn't true. And it will be interesting to compare Provia to the new Ektachrome film when it becomes available.
thanks for your comments! it's always nice to hear what other people have to say about different film stocks.
I'm curious how you metered on the Banff photos. Did you meter the snow and bump it up, or simply take an incident reading from where you were standing?
I used the sunny 16 rule.
A fantastic comparison video. Thank you very much.
Craig Houdeshell thanks for that! We try our best. Take a look at our other videos in this playlist
The dynamic range of the Portra is amazing! Definitely the best film if you have the time to edit the pictures.
Thanks for sharing with us!
so happy you mentioned strobes at the end!
I'm with you on Provia. As a general purpose transparency film, it's hard to beat. This is how I would use these three films: Portra - people; Provia - general photography; Velvia - subdued lighting landscapes. Portra provides excellent skin tones. Portra is somewhat contrasty, but has a decent exposure range. Velvia is unforgiving, but gives you beautiful reds, greens and blues. I's also contrastier than the other two films by design. Film is like cameras....they are just tools to use to create something specific. You don't use a hammer to cut wood. You don't use Velvia to take portraits. Learn what the films are designed for and use them accordingly. I would have liked to have seen Ektar used to compare with the transparency films. That would be a more even comparison in my opinion. Overall, a great comparison video! I'm really happy to see you doing videos on film, because as you've said, film is not dead. There's still a market for film and it's making a resurgence. I'd love to see a comparison of Provia and Ektachrome when Kodak re-releases that film stock.
hey john thanks for checking it out! be sure to stop by our live feed at 3p!
thanks again for your insights!
Where? I'm in the CDT zone. What time is 3p for me? 4p?
It's 5pm
What scanner you used for your films? Looks like a drum scanner?
Nice video - these comparisons are great for people new to film but I think it's important for anyone viewing these to remember that the scans on the negative film are very subjective and rely heavily on the scanner and the scanner operator's interpretation of what the image should look like. I own a Fuji Frontier scanner and my Portra scans look nothing like these nor have I seen Portra scans as flat and dull as these. However ten different labs will give you ten different negative scans.
Of course each negative film stock has its own look - you know Pro400h will give you one look with a pastel look with more greens and Ektar 100 will give you another with reds that pop but within that one stock the scanning can vastly effect the outcome. Portra is much better looking than these scans here would indicate.
f/16 in bright sun, shutter speed is twice the number of your ISO.
thanks bebox7. thanks for your insights! scanning does make a huge difference!
The Slanted Lens what were these scanned on? For colour neg and transparency I find that any flatbed will not really give great results. These look like a flatbed.
Agree Portra 160 is a very contrasty film when scanned on a Fuji Frontier. It is nothing like a flatbed.
I just got my first Olympus OM2 and I am planning to shoot landscape slides. Thank you for the comparison, I will try Provia (I like the colours better) and Velvia (everyone recommends it for landscapes).
Thanks for your comment. Have fun shooting your landscapes!
Could you be more specific with what is a high dynamic range photo? What's the EV difference between the highlights and shadows?
Also how did you metered these pictures? Is it always for midtones?
Just so we could have a better idea when metering.
way back when,,, 1980s for me...
The most expensive way, but the absolute best larger size prints came from shooting slide film, and then having them used to have large prints made from them.
everything was much more vibrant and clear.
But cost per print was enormous, compared to just Ektar 125 35mm film ( super-finicky film they discontinued, but when you got it right, it was as good as slide to print, prints. even at 20x30 inch prints)
ANYWAYS, thanks for making me feel older...
DAMN IT Jay P. !!! :-)
USAthe ROCK I think the major drawback of film and the reason why many people don't do it is because of cost.
Which is too bad because the results are amazing.
of course, and now that the larger format cameras are available so cheap, compared to the cost of large format back in the film days, it's easy to make the switch to film.
BUT FOR ME, i wouldnt go back to film. The chance of missing the shot, and not knowing I had missed the shot until I get my negatives back,,,,
NOPE Never again
The stress alone of waiting to see 20- 50 rolls of film to affirm the shots are good is too stressful for me.
I'd rather have the instant gratification of seeing i got the shot right then and there.
Plus, digital is beautiful as well. Film has a uniqueness about it.
But I am okay with 100% digital.
haha i guess you could say the same thing with getting corrupted files -- that's happened to me before and it's devastating.
very true, but redundancy of two media cards, printing to each, or wireless to laptop, or tethering with wires, can be used to avoid that.
With film, best we can do is bracket, use two bodies grab some pics of everything with each camera, and pray. :)
If you were planning a basic photography class today, would you consider requiring students to shoot film as a major method to teach? Not as a replacement for digital, but to enhance the pleasure of film, as well as emphasize the importance of capturing the image as best you can before post-production.
it's a great way to learn the fundamentals. it's not just for nostalgia but it's a good way to learn the basics of photography and give you a good foundation
holy hell that shot at 6:57 the Provia looks absolutely stunning. I love it. Portra 160 is not doing too badly suprisingly
You sound like a Film fan. I bet you have some great images.
@@TheSlantedLens I am a film fan :) I have some provia in my fridge right now waiting for this stupid pandemic to end so i can take my zeiss ikon out and shoot it.
Really enjoyed this comparison, thanks for making it. The only one of these I haven't shoot in 120 form is the Provia but I really like your results with the model. With the landscapes, I think the blues on the Velvia 100 are just unmatched, and even more so with the Velvia 50. Shame about the narrow DR but when you nail it and you first open the dev. tank after processing, you look at it and for a moment feel like you never want to shoot anything else again : )
KoenigF50 thanks for your comments! We are happy that this has helped you see the difference between these film stocks! Hopefully you can share your photos on our Facebook page when you're done!
Awesome watch! I’ve shot transparency quite a bit and wish I’d seen this years ago!!
Any thoughts or a similar video for Ektar?
Glad you found it helpful. I put your idea on our list!
I am interested in knowing more about slide film, when projected on a clear plain wall with the curtains closed and the lights turned off, what aspect ratio are the photos displayed at.
It depends on the format you shot on and the projector you are going to project them with.
it's really case by case. each gives a particularly unique representation of each scene, which is wonderful. and a LOT of it has to do with the scanning process. scanning in itself is an art (or at least a skill).
yes, we agree! we are going to be launching a new series specifically on film, so stay subscribed to see that!
The Provia with strong highlights looks like it has a red cast in most of the pictures. Her white dress was pink, the mountain highlights were pink. But it really sings with even light.
Portra 160 seems happier at 100; becomes less pastel. I'd love to see this again with Ektachrome 100, Ektar 100 and Velvia 100 . Portra 400 is also really interesting that it's almost as forgiving with skin tones as 160, but if you pull it a stop or two (or 3!) , the colors do punch up noticeably.
I shot some 35mm provia but I'm having a hard time scanning it due to the fact that I can't seem to get the colors right in Silverfast Ai Studio. Is it absolutely necessary to get one of those calibration slides to scan provia or velvia?
I had the same problem. I stopped using the calibration slide and just let my scanner figure out the best settings itself. (Epsom perfection scanner). This works perfectly
another interesting video!
thakns for sharing this with us!
never tried slide film but really would love to try it one day!
ACID SNOW it's super fun! The results are great if you nail exposure lol. Great for landscape shots!!
Good video!! And I agree that Provia 100F is hard to beat. The wide exposure latitude of Portra (or most any C-41 film) comes at the cost of low contrast. Even correctly exposed, Portra looks washed out compared to the high contrast of slide films. But the high contrast of Provia (or now Kodak E100) makes it more difficult to meter and expose correctly. All this can be easily seen in a film's exposure/density curve graph. Both Kodak and Fuji publish these charts for all of their films. The steeper the graph the higher the contrast and color "pop," but also the more difficult to expose correctly. Films with more gently sloping curves will have higher exposure forgiveness but less contrast, making them look dullish.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You are correct and that is why transparency film was always the choice for commercial photography. But you have to know what you are doing.
Thank you, this was a very useful and interesting video.
Thank you for watching, David!
Provia100F wins in all shots. When I shoot portra, i shoot the 400 stock. I've shot a portrait session on velvia recently and oh boy, if the shot wasnt overexposed, skin tones look yucky. I do shoot Provia more often now for Portraits, develop my own at home on E-6 chems. Cant wait for Kodak to relaunch Ektachrome already. Great video and comparisons by the way.
Marcos Santana thanks! Ecktochrome is a great film! Jay P shot on it a lot before it got discontinued.
Check out our film freeway playlist for more
Slide film wins out for me, the resolution and sharpness you get from something like Velvia 50 or Provia 100F is far better than any colour negative, and looking at transparencies on a light table is an irreplaceable experience than nothing comes close to, yeah the exposure is fussy but if you get it right it's amazing.
Also, Velvia 50 is way nicer than Velvia 100.
Really excited for that new Ektachrome.
Hi from Russia! Thx for great video! I'm gonna try Provia now)
Have fun! Enjoy your shoot!
Do you think that Ektar 100 would have been another appropriate negative film to try in this scenario in addition to or in place of the Portra 160? I ask because Ektar, like the slide films has warmer overall tones and is also more likely to be used for landscapes than portraits?
ldstirling yeah ektar is a great film! We are thinking about doing this sort of tests for black and white films!
Check out our 13 films compared for more!
Emerald Leong thanks for the reply! I have watched the Black and White film comparison several times recently and thought it was great. It has prompted my decision to try several different new film stocks.
Very helpful, in other words own a quality light meter before considering slide film
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
I love the magenta tint, but i cant stand the low dyn range as a newbie
In the Fuji digital world they provide these film simulations in camera. So thank you for further insight. I realize these simulations come from the film days. They also let us play with the Dynamic Range 100, 200 and 400 in camera. How would that work together with selecting these film simulations. For example, would 400 be for brighter ambient light or darker? Thank you for sharing. Always enjoy your videos. Ric
400 speed film means it's faster so it's going to be brighter. it will be 1 stop brighter than 200 and 2 stops brighter than 100
we have a lesson on that: film vs digital can you tell the difference
Hi Ric, I used to own a Fuji X100s for several years. Shooting the film simulations only applies to jpeg's, as the raw will be interpreted by your software per the usual. So, when you shoot jpeg only, the challenge is that you're baking in your gamma curve for the image. So in a high contrast scene, if anything blows out or is underexposed, then it's gone forever because you don't have the latitude of raw to help bring it back.
When shooting raw, a popular technique is to underexpose the image a little in order to protect the highlights from blowing out, and in post you simply boost the exposure of the shadows to balance the image out. Shooting jpeg you can't do that. So setting the DR to 200 or 400 is actually telling your Fuji to underexpose the image by 1 or 2 stops and brighten the shadows to compensate before compressing the image to jpeg and writing it to your card. It's basically doing all he post-work in camera and increasing the dynamic range of your jpeg images by 1 or 2 stops.
If you're shooting film simulation jpegs in scenes with plenty of light, I would use DR 400. If you're in a low light situation, switch back to 100 so that the camera doesn't underexpose the images.
Yes you can most certainly tell the difference between the real film Provia and the film simulation. Personally, I don't think the film simulations are anything like the actual films. It's just what Fuji calls their colour profiles to make the consumer think they are getting Film looking images. But I think it's impossible to get digital to look exactly like film. And if I did want the film look, I would rather just shoot the real thing.
Dynamic range has less to do with the brightness of the scene, but is about the RANGE of tones present from dark to bright. Setting your Fuji to a higher dynamic range will allow you to deal with higher contrast situations, such as shooting into the light. The penalty is that these higher dynamic range settings require a higher ISO, with the risk of some additional noise. (X-pro2 shooter).
Fantastic video, very useful for film photographers. :) For what it's worth, I liked the Portra more than you. I know you have vastly more experience than I do, but Portra And Post Production is a beautiful thing. So is T-Max And Post. So versatile! The Provia is rockin though, thanks for a great tutorial.
Hey David, thanks for checking out our video! Glad you thought it was useful. Everyone has their opinions on what is best and there's no right or wrong answer! It just depends on what you're into. Have you checked out our other film videos?
Yes, great stuff!
I like the portra for portraits so much...
That is a great choice for portraits.
Very useful & helpful information, thanks!
You're welcome Leonard! Check out our most recent film videos: ruclips.net/video/13WDdBk17OA/видео.html
Ahoy. I had some Provia cross processed as C41 recently, and got lovely results. By the time I scanned and colour-corrected it the end result looked like Portra but with a bit more oomph. How about a cross-processing review, comparing with transparency processing and C41 film?
Thanks for the suggestion, we'll keep that in mind for our future film videos!
Provia looks so good in almost all of them. I hate when I shoot and something really punchy red, like that dress, turns out magenta and pale. I often find it a little bit difficult to work with that pale magenta in post too, usually it doesn't turn out like a natural red, for me at least.
EDIT: Sky doesn't look very good in the provia though, so might want to avoid that I guess.
A very good comparison for those films, may I ask what Kind of scanner to scan those films?And how to do it?
Leo Pan we got our films processed by Richard's photo lab in santa Clarita. They use frontier scanners.
Check out or other videos on film vs digital!
I actually liked the Velvia 100 underexposed by two stops. I would've liked to see more of this, but otherwise great video, thank you! I will try both Provia and Velvia.
Great! We have a video on pushing and pulling film: ruclips.net/video/90bo5bb77_g/видео.html
Portra all the way. ✨
Thanks for this, I'm gonna give film another try.
This was great. The red dress examples really hit the mark don't they. I've been a keen user of Provia for a long time. Even prefer it over Ektachrome I think. Your video was a great demo of how Velvia CAN be used for portrait work too in the right settings. Be great to see something like this with Ektachrome thrown in :-)
Yeah, that would be. Another time!
@@TheSlantedLens will look forward to that sir :-)
Loved this. SO helpful.
This model is gorgeous. And overall the Provia is simply incredible. A shame Fujifilm seems to be ever so slowly pulling out of the film game. Their color science is second to none.
Thank you for watching! We are still shooting with Fujifilm, check out our newest video here: ruclips.net/video/x0P7FFU_z8I/видео.html
Provia is really the only one that Rocks the Red!
yeah it's sort of magenta isn't it?
In my mind the best all-round print (negative) film ever is Fuji Superia 100. Small grain, beautiful colours, good dynamic range, and the best thing of all, it was CHEAP! Sadly, it's been discontinued a few years back...
There is something wrong with the portra 160 scanning profile. The dress has a slight push to green, which I suspect is also causing the skin to look off.
You have a good eye Adrian. Thanks for watching!
Hey JP great recommendations, as always. Not sure if you have done a video recently to show how to shot film cameras. If not, could you do one with some tips? Thanks
do you mean how to shoot film cameras as a product or how to shoot pictures with film cameras?
The Slanted Lens Yes, I meant a video explaining the different intrecacies of shooting with film cameras. Obviously anyone should be able to shot film cameras, but today I learned how different films can have more dynamic range. So I wonder what else is there for shooting with film cameras as a system in general that I or others are not aware of.
good comparison, interesting and helpful! Better then your video about 13 filmstocks, I think in Black and White Film we must not discuss about l little bit more contrast, cause this makes the print / lightroom. But this over/underexposing and the totally different color makes really a difference.
Thanks Markus! We are coming out with a new video on film this Thursday, so stay subscribed to see that!
I am pretty sure the slide films look pretty good projected with a regular analog viewer but gets ruined in the scan process. That is, the film itself holds pretty much shadow/highlight details but needs multiple scans to cover the whole dynamic range and not get chrushed blacks and whites. What would happen if you did this? (Perhaps the whole point with film gets lost but thats another discussion)
If you do multiple scans it would be like creating an HDR basically. I could see how that would work.
What advice would you give to a 22 year old filmmaker from New Zealand who wants to make feature films and tv shows full time?
get into film sets and do some work for free. that's the best way to network, make connections and make your dreams come true!!
My favourite Fuji film was Astia. I preferred the Kodak E100 films. Don’t think Kodak has re-released it in 120 sadly. Provia never let you down though.
Thanks for sharing with us! We are a huge fan of Provia as well :)
Thank you, this is incredibly helpful!
Excellent and useful video. Thanks to this video, I'll be ordering some Provia 100F 😱 -
Thanks!
Awesome! Be sure to use our affiliate links if you would like to support our content :)
www.amazon.com/shop/theslantedlens
Do you know, in this day and age your knowledge is invaluable?
Thank you very much for sharing your skills with us.
Incidentally, do you know with your side by side examples, you can cross your eyes and see a 3D Stereoscopic image? 😊 You can.
That's what I like, 3D photos. I have a good DSLR and very nice vintage lenses, and I'm interested in taking some slides. (For 3D)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I didn't know that you could do that, but I'll definitely try it out on our next slides.
I love RUclips knowledge.
Great content!
Great video! What medium format camera did you use?
Adam Ryan good ol hasselblad!
That's what I thought it was. 500c/m?
yup!
I enjoyed the hell out of this video. Could you explain how you determine the correct exposure for Provia?
If you have a lightmeter, take a reading of the blacks and the whites in a shot and if there's more than 5 stops, maximum 6 stops difference, use nd filter and if that is unavailable, then just don't use slide, use film. As a rule of thumb, only use Velvia with landscapes or scenes that don't involve human skin.
thanks for your comments! we did this as a general test but rules to follow are great ways to start off.
interesting and valuable perspectives. I've sensed for a long time that the discipline from the pre-digital age which you are rediscovering is something that in the Digital Age can be a defining skill. I remember back in the 60s and 70s Contact sheets were the essential element of a professional workflow. Personally, I preferred Color Slides and previewing those images on a projector taking notes, and then pulling the 'Keepers' into sleeves.
Before Digital, especially with Medium Format, I usually shot Kodachrome or Ektachrome for color prints because I used to get really punchy and dynamic images, and now with the ability to easily Macro-shoot transparences how about color transparency film for color and B&W conversion? Might be interesting to compare to Digital images.
Great review, thank you Jay.
Wondering how new Ektachrome will look like in comparison. Some people say Kodak have more latitude
It's fairly similar to Provia 100F but it has a slight blue cast instead of green like Provia
man its really hard to choose... they all have a purspose!
just like everyone in the world. we all have a purpose.
What do you use to scan the film?
We use Richard Photo Lab for all of our scans :)
Thanks for this, i have never shot slide film so it is interesting to see. But if i am totally honest i much prefer the Kodak Portra film stock for my tastes and style, well if i am not shooting black&white that is
Richard Rollinson - My Analog Life everyone has their preference. With slide film you just have to remember to expose properly. You don't get the latitude that you do with color negative
Would like to see how Ektar compares in the landscapes.
That'd be a great test! Unfortunately we won't be doing any landscape shoots anytime soon, but tag us in your photos if you test it out.
Really help me a lot,thanks
Happy to help. Enjoy shooting your film.
Love this film series!
TM thanks!! It takes a lot of work actually lol. So glad to hear you're enjoying it
I do not care for the color renditions that Portra has with the sky blue, How does Ektar compare to Velvia ?
Generally Ektar is a color negative film, whereas the Velvia films are all color slide film.
Helped a lot! Thanks!
Gil, I'm glad to help. Have you watched any of our other film videos?
Thank you for this video on film (especially, comparison with transperancy film)! Please, keep on making your film series in the future. I'm so tired of "digital" look of photos that nowadays can be seen everywhere.
Also, try to compare another great transperancy film, Velvia 50. It is regarded better than Velvia 100. This film is in my camera now :)
OrelRussia thanks for your comments! Post your photos on our Facebook page when you get them processed!
My best results ever was when I used Kodak Portra 160 film exposed at ISO 125, and then printed it on Fuji paper. (Among negative films).
Sounds like you got some great images!
@@TheSlantedLens - That was back in the days when I was a part time wedding photographer.
Thanks for this video
were velvia and provia devoloped with c41?
All the print film was processed with C41.
Will you review the new Ektachrome?
Merci monsieur ! Very helpful.
So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
I think it would make more sense to compare the slides with Ektar 100 instead of Portra 160.
Anyway, that’s a great vid, enjoyed a lot watching this.
Cheers!
Eduardo Umeoka why do you say that? Just curious
Emerald Leong hi. For me the Kodak Ektar 100 suits better this comparison because it has the same speed and more importantly the colors you get from Ektar are more vibrant and saturated, similar to what you get in the slides. Just my opinion tho. I don’t have much experience with slides.
hey that's a good observation!! i never thought of that! we'll put it in the queue for next time. thanks for your support.
When I shot film exclusively my favorite film was Provia. But I would like to see what Kodak Ektar could do since it has a higher contrast than Portra.
Yeah we've had some previous comments about the Kodak Ektar. I'll definitely put it on my radar for our next film shoot! We have a new series coming out about film, so stay subscribed for that!
thanks for creating this.. would love to see more film videos, keep them coming.
Jovan Jimenez thanks! Check out our film freeway playlist for more
Love this, great video
Nice video, I would have like to see it with Ektar 100 instead of portra
ektar 100 is a great film stock. we were concentrating more on transparency.
Trabalho lindo! Parabéns
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Portra 800 is a great film to shoot in mixed lighting.
Interesting. I haven't used it! Do you have some examples?
I do but unfortunately I cannot share it because these are personal portrait photos of me and my loved ones. But I can explain it. What was happening there was incandescent bulbs lighting up from the left side of the room but on the right side of the room it was a bit dark. So I decided to put the speedlight on the right side of the room while the subjects were in the middle of the room next to the wall. I placed a light orange color gel for white balance. I did try different ways of angling the speedlight head with a built-in diffuser pulled out on top of the head and one of the angles included a pulled out bounce card on the speedlight. So I varied the style of lighting when it comes harshness by experimenting with it. The Nikon F5 was set on Program Mode while the Nikon SB-800 was set on TTL with a TTL cable hooked up between the Speedlight and the Camera. The Nikon Camera was on a tripod while the Speedlight was on a monopod with the small legs extended out. I hooked a wired Nikon Trigger to the camera so their won’t be any camera shake. The Nikon Camera was set at Box Speed of ISO 800 with the Portra 800. At the end of the shoot and having it developed, it turned out to be a good shoot. Peace, Flood of Flood Production!
Thank YOU!!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I'm surprised you didn't use Portra 400 for its better color and contrast that would more closely compare to transparency
As the (female) human eye/brain could distinguish 10 billion color nuances and/or gradations, and film gets to 1 billion, every type of film chooses where to omit and how. This is the "character". We can imagine one type of film to be able to reproduce A, B or C skintones better than another. Historically ... Africa Masai country - Kodachrome. Indonesia lush green desa rice farms - old Fuji. Slightly warm studio portraits - Kodacolor with Zeiss glass. Cooler studio work - Ektacolor professional. Very contrasty artsy work - Cibachrome.
JP dJ interesting description. Thanks for your insight. You might be interested in our film freeway playlist!
good stuff. keep on going
Bruno Martelli thanks! Check out our film freeway playlist for more!
i would choose PORTRA in every single shot, its just the best color film ever :)
09:00 The Magenta/purple hue in her dress looks odd though
Portra is a nice film. Thanks for your comment!
Hey JP what about Ektar?
Marco Esteban Zarikian we did think about it...and decided to go with portra. But ektar is a great film! Check out our film freeway playlist for more comparisons
Loved this
love you!