Chip EJACULATION?!?! Good god, that would be a TERRIBLE thing to experience. lil chips would be everywhere!!! JK, just caught that and made me giggle. I think you meant to say 'evacuation' or 'ejection'.
Congratulations on 10k subs, great milestone and you never know you just might crack the hundred before you know it, keep the good content coming mate, ATB Matty🇦🇺
Hey RM congrats on 10k subs!! 👍 I do think that if you had a grinder you could give your 1204s a 15 degree angle (from approx 8 I believe) leaving a mm of land to the rad it would cut alot better, I think the clearance at the bottom is the issue, however it did look better on the 09t3s (min bore 16mm anyway). A larger radius on the tip would help too I think! I believe the min bore for a 16mm is 20mm anyway from most suppliers so to be able to bore smaller you need to grind more clearance (on the underside of the tip), which we do at work. Also however fair play on the air through the back, wouldn't have thought of that myself and will have to remember that for my baby lathe so cheers for that haha! Loved the video dude, keep up the great work!!
That original crappy finish bears all the hall marks of a carbide tip being below centre when boring. Did you check the insert height against centre in the tailstock ? I really don't like round holders as it is quite possible to have the boring bar canted, yet it will still pull down and do the job (sort of). ALWAYS check the boring bar against centre, particularly when swapping out in a round holder. The insert MUST be correctly orientated to work properly. There is also the small concern that the centre of the boring bar/insert tip and the holder hole are not the same. When you swapped to a smaller boring bar (which is a much better idea IMHO) it probably sat and pulled down correctly. Congrats on 10K subscribers. Cheers Rob
That is exactly what I pointed out to the gentleman in the last session. These ' Blue Nano ' things have the wrong geometry or are manufactured wrong as they don't sit flush in the tool. I have two sets, DCMT and CCMT which are worse than useless.
@@lensman5762 From my experience it is more often the insert "holder" (boring bar, face mill) that have the wrong geometry with the screw being set back to far into the insert pocket, in a set of 5 boring bars, one had the insert tipping up, the same insert was sitting perfect in the other 4 boring bars
I've always used tool steel in my Myford 7 lathe, in the last year or two, due to Bangood hitting you tube so hard, I've bought some insert tooling. Very good for harder materials or reasonably deep cuts but only get a very good finish if I'm using high speeds or taking big cuts, making the tool work hard. I can cut deeper using high speed steel, normally a .050" in mild steel , the inserts make the lathe struggle at anything over .030". As soon as I'm trying to creep up on a size, i.e. fine cuts, the surface finish using inserts goes down a lot. If I want a really good finish and I'm creeping up on the size I always change back to tool steel. Suggest you stop buying so many inserts and try some well honed mild steel. Well done with your subscriptions! Colin
Yer bang on Colin, I have an ML7 and I wouldnt use carbide on it at all unless I was hard-turning, something I'd prefer to do on the bigger Colchester... but as you say, its very hard on small lathes, carbide inserts small rake & clearance angles beg for horsepower & put a LOT of pressure on the headstock "bearings" .. 😎👍☘
Maybe set the boring bar above centre height as much as possible on tiny holes like this. I do that and it leaves a better finish.... add a spay of WD40. 10k subs 👏🏻👍
The pointy bit might have been a hair below center. It's probably better to be above center with internal turning work. I guess I will have to take another cut.
Don't worry the scary VFD is on it's way out, I've already ordered a replacement. These days it needs at-least a minute warm-up time before it works properly. If you start it too soon it cuts out with an error message. It's about 32 years old now.
@@Rolingmetal ok... I am a machinist so what i have to say is more than a "grain of salt". Everything your doing is working against you. Looks to me that the dia is a little over an inch so 800rpm is not going to cut it considering that you dont know the material, i would go min 1200rpm. Tool nose radious appears to be your standard 1/32 so depth of cut providing you have enough material is min .03in on radi and your feed well.... If you dont have power feed your shit out of luck and hope you have a smooth hand, Feed should be .005ipr for a almost glass finish you can go up to .008ipr and still get real nice results, may require emery.
Few tips: 1. Use an aluminium CCGT insert - uncoated and very sharp (ground). 2. Mirror finish can be achieved ONLY on certain materials (think quality steels, like tool steel). For the rest, we have to be happy with 'smooth to the touch' finish. It will not come out mirror no matter what. 3. Use any regular insert for roughing, and change the the CCGT insert only for the finishing two passes. 4. Use cutting oil, not WD40. It will not give a good finish if everything else is off, but it will take you that last 15-20% of the journey. Plus it will keep your inserts sharper for longer. 5. For boring, DCMT (rhombic) and TCMT (triangular) shaped inserts are preferred over the CCMT. The trailing edge on the CCMT is so close the wall, it will sometimes trap swarf and mess up the cut. Not your problem here, but something to keep in mind.
This is where i realised i was not subscribed to your channel yet. (i am now) I hope you will not kill me for that. btw, Congratulations with your 10K subs.
I'd use a larger nose radius and a high top rake ground insert .you must reduce cutting forces because on an older ,light machine like yours any deflection of the boring bar will cause chatter.
A larger radius nose on the tool would encourage chatter (cutting forces are directly related to tool edge "length")... but u are right Paul, hi-rake super-sharp inserts are available... but... they are delicate creatures prone to chipping at the slightest onset of vibration. And don't even THINK of grinding an insert... 🙄 Heres what I'd do ... use the largest diameter piece of m.s. bar you can get away with (for rigidity) and cross-drill the end for a broken centre-drill or a bit of round hss, suitably ground, then to hold it in place, drill the bars end for a grubscrew... use as little overhang as possible on the boring bar length and the cutting bit itself... And MOST importantly u MUST keep the cutting edge on-centre height or it will NOT turn a true conical surface , the surface will be slightly curved. I have actually made a makeshift boring bar like this before & used a broken 1/4" endmill ground to the proper clearances as the cutting bit & it worked a treat ! Edit.. Heres a link to grinding yer own HSS cutters, I think you should have a go ! ruclips.net/video/__A2xtLF0AU/видео.html 😎👍☘️
I have watched your vids on and off but have not subscribed to your channel yet so I do not know all the story but, have you thought about adopting tapered roller bearings to your lathe if that is possible?
Basically I needed a new hobby, so I bought a lathe and then started making videos in order to get some good feedback and learn a thing or two. Next YT kinda became the hobby :) I have thought about roller bearing. The could be made to fit inside the headstock. But modifying the tapered spindle journals would be impossible for me to do
Turn the cutting tool upside down and run the machine in reverse and cut on the same face. Or put the tool in and cut the back face in normal direction. This does not lift the chuck and spindle out of its bearing and cancels vertical shifts away from the tool bit when cutting. Can you run an indicator on top of the chuck to measure deflection while cutting. Do it from several angles. Perhaps even check the other end of the spindle tube with an indicator while cutting. If the cutting tool is a lever where is the fulcrum
Nah 10.000.000 is huge. If you look on socialblade there are almost 800.000 channels with more subs then I have. But you'll get there Max, if you keep putting out goo videos. You already have 160 more subs then I had after 6 months.
It is hard to get a good finish without speed and pressure when using carbide tooling. You would be better served with good HSS tooling on your lathe. CONGRATULATIONS on the 10K subscribers.
Ya know, I don't 100% agree. I use carbide on my bench lathe quite often(all the time) and have found it's all about the grade and coating (Chinese knockoff inserts are generally quite poor and don't perform well even matched up correctly). I can eek out mirror finish on 1018 or 4140 with the proper P steel insert sub 1000 rpm which I always had issues getting right with HSS (Sumitomo AC300 I believe it was). 304, 417 and 17-4 are quite easy as well with the proper PVD coating. Even inconel 718 is quite easy with a good coated S insert. I've seen lots of blanket statements with carbide and it really takes a deeper dive to correctly match your material with insert for a good finish and experience vs. 'carbide is carbide'. Using an incorrect insert is like using a dull blade; It will sort of work if you use a lot of force but everything gets stressed out, takes too much effort and you get a ragged cut. Sorry for the novel, just something I've spent LOTS of time and money experimenting with and wanted to share.
I agree. I use the same inserts and get a nice finish. But I also have the HP and speed and feed to push the inserts. The work is hardened, so it probably needed 1000 to 1200 rpm to get a mirror finish.
@legal pitbull ...did u read the part of my comment where I said the lathe isn't built for carbide ? Obviously not.... If you are so knowledgeable you would also know that carbide insert tooling NEEDS rigidity & high speed .... not happenin on THIS lathe .. And no, HSS is not obsolete either (I don't know what HHs is) ..and wtf are you even talking about grinding carbide ? ... do you think form tools etc. are ground out of a lump of carbide ? Tool & Die maker indeed .. 🙄😏 Try again... 😎👍
Thanks. Apparently it's a big deal 10K because I even got a congratulation mail from RUclips. It's definitely not life changing, I can tell you that :)
@@Rolingmetal Glad you found something. Btw, jump on eBay and see if you can find some Sumitomo ACZ310 grade turning inserts. It's the 'old' grade and you can find them cheap and the surface finish on steel is enormously better than the VP15TF coating. I've done a lot of side by side testing of iscar, mitsu, sandvik and Sumi and they have been the best steel quality on everything from 1018 to 4140.
Congrats on 10k!! The surface finish is a symptom of high frequency oscillations. The spindle bearings need to be modified for conical axle/hub bearings. That machine just wasn’t made to run at carbide speed. Get some US, Japanese or European HSS stock and grind up some tooling. I’ll be donating on PayPal again soon, not much but I hope it’ll help you make more videos.
So right.... Running Carbide on a lathe of this size & light construction is asking for trouble. Why are people afraid to learn how to grind up some hss tooling which is all that was available when this dinosaur was made... 😒
Anytime I think the fan noise from my shitty Huanyang VFD is bad, half a second of the noise your Allan Bradley puts forth has me feeling better about things. Easily makes my Top 3 Very Bad Sounds, right up there with Trump.
@@Rolingmetal you are the king of understatement! Hey, have you turned much delrin? Might work well on your old lathe. I was turning delrin on the weekend and it seemed to really like low speed. Would love to see you try it. Keep up the videos, I greatly enjoy them over here in Australia.
I fully back your decision on the policy change were a small channel becomes a medium -- small channel at the 10,000 subscriber level. I also think that we should ban all VP15TF inserts until the matter is fully investigated. Don't worry I will not unsubscribe until this channel gets better.
As long as you're having fun. :) I recorded a video of myself repairing a quad bike. I fixed the bike (kinda) but I can't find the time to edit the video. The editing is way harder than it looks and takes heaps of time.
I have just started viewing and got to 40 seconds and without watching further the video I would suggest you take a look at your boring bar insert, it seems there is no support under the insert, it looks as though the insert has a gap where it should be supported at the tip by the boring bar,
There is a bit of paint missing from the boring bar. That might give the elusion it's not fully seated. There certainly is no air gap, I held it up against light
Why are you using carbide insert tools... that lathe isn't designed to run carbide....go supersharp hss... & make 100% sure you are dead on centre-height or the taper cut will not be correct. HSS tooling is not only more appropriate for that wet noodle lathe it is a LOT cheaper... 😎👍☘
my god, get a proper tool post already. this setup is just painful to watch. and how you'd expect proper finish at ID no less with a CCMT insert recommended for roughing and interrupted maching at low speed?? get a sharp one for finishing like CCGT and a fitting boring bar ffs, tho i'm not even sure finishing is possible on your lathe with that joke of a spindle bearing.
Chip EJACULATION?!?! Good god, that would be a TERRIBLE thing to experience. lil chips would be everywhere!!! JK, just caught that and made me giggle. I think you meant to say 'evacuation' or 'ejection'.
Congratulations on 10k subs, great milestone and you never know you just might crack the hundred before you know it, keep the good content coming mate, ATB Matty🇦🇺
thank you.
Congratulations on 10k!
Congrats with the 10K subs. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, I'll try :)
I sincerely commend you for your determination pal.... keep the vids coming and well done 👍👍
sadly determination doesn't equal skill :)
@@Rolingmetal yeah, but it gives you experience which drives skill. All comes with time.
Congratulations on the 10k milestone 😍
It's good to finally have 5 digits :)
Hey RM congrats on 10k subs!! 👍 I do think that if you had a grinder you could give your 1204s a 15 degree angle (from approx 8 I believe) leaving a mm of land to the rad it would cut alot better, I think the clearance at the bottom is the issue, however it did look better on the 09t3s (min bore 16mm anyway). A larger radius on the tip would help too I think! I believe the min bore for a 16mm is 20mm anyway from most suppliers so to be able to bore smaller you need to grind more clearance (on the underside of the tip), which we do at work. Also however fair play on the air through the back, wouldn't have thought of that myself and will have to remember that for my baby lathe so cheers for that haha! Loved the video dude, keep up the great work!!
That original crappy finish bears all the hall marks of a carbide tip being below centre when boring. Did you check the insert height against centre in the tailstock ?
I really don't like round holders as it is quite possible to have the boring bar canted, yet it will still pull down and do the job (sort of). ALWAYS check the boring bar against centre, particularly when swapping out in a round holder. The insert MUST be correctly orientated to work properly.
There is also the small concern that the centre of the boring bar/insert tip and the holder hole are not the same.
When you swapped to a smaller boring bar (which is a much better idea IMHO) it probably sat and pulled down correctly.
Congrats on 10K subscribers.
Cheers Rob
Chip ejaculation ?? He’s not getting a good ( finish) because he has premature chip ejaculation, try slowing down and take your time😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I kinda need to blow the spindle to stop the delayed chip ejaculation
Hi Look how much space there is under the Blue Nano insert, it is not seating ok and will never produce a good finish.
That is exactly what I pointed out to the gentleman in the last session. These ' Blue Nano ' things have the wrong geometry or are manufactured wrong as they don't sit flush in the tool. I have two sets, DCMT and CCMT which are worse than useless.
@@lensman5762 From my experience it is more often the insert "holder" (boring bar, face mill) that have the wrong geometry with the screw being set back to far into the insert pocket, in a set of 5 boring bars, one had the insert tipping up, the same insert was sitting perfect in the other 4 boring bars
I've always used tool steel in my Myford 7 lathe, in the last year or two, due to Bangood hitting you tube so hard, I've bought some insert tooling. Very good for harder materials or reasonably deep cuts but only get a very good finish if I'm using high speeds or taking big cuts, making the tool work hard.
I can cut deeper using high speed steel, normally a .050" in mild steel , the inserts make the lathe struggle at anything over .030". As soon as I'm trying to creep up on a size, i.e. fine cuts, the surface finish using inserts goes down a lot. If I want a really good finish and I'm creeping up on the size I always change back to tool steel.
Suggest you stop buying so many inserts and try some well honed mild steel. Well done with your subscriptions!
Colin
I believe HSS can be made sharper than carbide that might explain the different results.
Yer bang on Colin, I have an ML7 and I wouldnt use carbide on it at all unless I was hard-turning, something I'd prefer to do on the bigger Colchester... but as you say, its very hard on small lathes, carbide inserts small rake & clearance angles beg for horsepower & put a LOT of pressure on the headstock "bearings" ..
😎👍☘
Maybe set the boring bar above centre height as much as possible on tiny holes like this. I do that and it leaves a better finish.... add a spay of WD40. 10k subs 👏🏻👍
The pointy bit might have been a hair below center. It's probably better to be above center with internal turning work. I guess I will have to take another cut.
Setting off-centre height will distort the taper ... 🙄😒
Congratulations. 100,000 is certainly possible.
yeah maybe in 20 years :)
Congratulations on becoming a big-ish channel! Hopefully you can keep getting more subs faster than your terrifying VFD scares them away :)
Don't worry the scary VFD is on it's way out, I've already ordered a replacement.
These days it needs at-least a minute warm-up time before it works properly.
If you start it too soon it cuts out with an error message. It's about 32 years old now.
What material, whats your rpm, whats your depth of cut and whats your feed?
Material: chinesium, rpm:800, depth of cut: about0.2 mm. freed rate: manual.
@@Rolingmetal ok... I am a machinist so what i have to say is more than a "grain of salt". Everything your doing is working against you. Looks to me that the dia is a little over an inch so 800rpm is not going to cut it considering that you dont know the material, i would go min 1200rpm. Tool nose radious appears to be your standard 1/32 so depth of cut providing you have enough material is min .03in on radi and your feed well.... If you dont have power feed your shit out of luck and hope you have a smooth hand, Feed should be .005ipr for a almost glass finish you can go up to .008ipr and still get real nice results, may require emery.
Few tips:
1. Use an aluminium CCGT insert - uncoated and very sharp (ground).
2. Mirror finish can be achieved ONLY on certain materials (think quality steels, like tool steel). For the rest, we have to be happy with 'smooth to the touch' finish. It will not come out mirror no matter what.
3. Use any regular insert for roughing, and change the the CCGT insert only for the finishing two passes.
4. Use cutting oil, not WD40. It will not give a good finish if everything else is off, but it will take you that last 15-20% of the journey. Plus it will keep your inserts sharper for longer.
5. For boring, DCMT (rhombic) and TCMT (triangular) shaped inserts are preferred over the CCMT. The trailing edge on the CCMT is so close the wall, it will sometimes trap swarf and mess up the cut. Not your problem here, but something to keep in mind.
Thanks. I actually ordered some CCGT inserts. Hope they get here soon, it will be interesting to find out how the perform on the collet chuck.
This is where i realised i was not subscribed to your channel yet. (i am now) I hope you will not kill me for that. btw, Congratulations with your 10K subs.
No problem, but leaving the tool temple cult is frowned upon
I'd use a larger nose radius and a high top rake ground insert .you must reduce cutting forces because on an older ,light machine like yours any deflection of the boring bar will cause chatter.
Hard to regrind inserts, especially by me :)
@@Rolingmetal they come ground for cutting aluminium and copper etc.
A larger radius nose on the tool would encourage chatter (cutting forces are directly related to tool edge "length")... but u are right Paul,
hi-rake super-sharp inserts are available... but... they are delicate creatures prone to chipping at the slightest onset of vibration.
And don't even THINK of grinding an insert... 🙄
Heres what I'd do ... use the largest diameter piece of m.s. bar you can get away with (for rigidity) and cross-drill the end for a broken centre-drill or a bit of round hss, suitably ground, then to hold it in place, drill the bars end for a grubscrew... use as little overhang as possible on the boring bar length and the cutting bit itself...
And MOST importantly u MUST keep the cutting edge on-centre height or it will NOT turn a true conical surface , the surface will be slightly curved.
I have actually made a makeshift boring bar like this before & used a broken 1/4" endmill ground to the proper clearances as the cutting bit & it worked a treat !
Edit..
Heres a link to grinding yer own HSS cutters, I think you should have a go !
ruclips.net/video/__A2xtLF0AU/видео.html
😎👍☘️
Hi RM. I am a bit behind on watching. A big Congratulations on 10 k subs. Liked,Shared,added to Playlists.
All my best.
No problem Robbie. These days about 5000 hours of video is being uploaded every minute.
And a lot of that is probably better than my contribution :)
I have watched your vids on and off but have not subscribed to your channel yet so I do not know all the story but, have you thought about adopting tapered roller bearings to your lathe if that is possible?
Basically I needed a new hobby, so I bought a lathe and then started making videos in order to get some good feedback and learn a thing or two. Next YT kinda became the hobby :)
I have thought about roller bearing. The could be made to fit inside the headstock. But modifying the tapered spindle journals would be impossible for me to do
@@Rolingmetal subscribed!!! lets see where this leads😉
Turn the cutting tool upside down and run the machine in reverse and cut on the same face. Or put the tool in and cut the back face in normal direction. This does not lift the chuck and spindle out of its bearing and cancels vertical shifts away from the tool bit when cutting. Can you run an indicator on top of the chuck to measure deflection while cutting. Do it from several angles. Perhaps even check the other end of the spindle tube with an indicator while cutting. If the cutting tool is a lever where is the fulcrum
Swings & round a bout's , sometimes we have a win & sometimes not . Its the nature f machining ! 10,000 is huge . Cheers .
Nah 10.000.000 is huge. If you look on socialblade there are almost 800.000 channels with more subs then I have. But you'll get there Max, if you keep putting out goo videos.
You already have 160 more subs then I had after 6 months.
It is hard to get a good finish without speed and pressure when using carbide tooling. You would be better served with good HSS tooling on your lathe. CONGRATULATIONS on the 10K subscribers.
Ya know, I don't 100% agree. I use carbide on my bench lathe quite often(all the time) and have found it's all about the grade and coating (Chinese knockoff inserts are generally quite poor and don't perform well even matched up correctly). I can eek out mirror finish on 1018 or 4140 with the proper P steel insert sub 1000 rpm which I always had issues getting right with HSS (Sumitomo AC300 I believe it was). 304, 417 and 17-4 are quite easy as well with the proper PVD coating. Even inconel 718 is quite easy with a good coated S insert.
I've seen lots of blanket statements with carbide and it really takes a deeper dive to correctly match your material with insert for a good finish and experience vs. 'carbide is carbide'. Using an incorrect insert is like using a dull blade; It will sort of work if you use a lot of force but everything gets stressed out, takes too much effort and you get a ragged cut.
Sorry for the novel, just something I've spent LOTS of time and money experimenting with and wanted to share.
I agree. I use the same inserts and get a nice finish. But I also have the HP and speed and feed to push the inserts.
The work is hardened, so it probably needed 1000 to 1200 rpm to get a mirror finish.
The surface finish I usually get it pretty random. I can be totally different from one cut to the next. might be the manual feed.
@legal pitbull ... the lathe was never meant to run carbide, its ridiculous... put a super-sharp hss bit at dead-on centre-height & do it right... 🙄🤨
@legal pitbull ...did u read the part of my comment where I said the lathe isn't built for carbide ?
Obviously not.... If you are so knowledgeable you would also know that carbide insert tooling NEEDS rigidity & high speed .... not happenin on THIS lathe ..
And no, HSS is not obsolete either (I don't know what HHs is) ..and wtf are you even talking about grinding carbide ? ... do you think form tools etc. are ground out of a lump of carbide ?
Tool & Die maker indeed .. 🙄😏
Try again... 😎👍
Congrats on 10K :)
Thanks. Apparently it's a big deal 10K because I even got a congratulation mail from RUclips.
It's definitely not life changing, I can tell you that :)
@@Rolingmetal You're practically a celebrity now. lol
All the dogs in my street are howling every time you turn on your lathe
Brother, I'm going to help get you a new vfd drive. That thing is scaring your inserts too badly to cut.
I've ordered something from ebay. This old one is on it's way out. It needs a minute warm up period or else it cuts out with an error message.
My ears thank you
@@Rolingmetal Glad you found something. Btw, jump on eBay and see if you can find some Sumitomo ACZ310 grade turning inserts. It's the 'old' grade and you can find them cheap and the surface finish on steel is enormously better than the VP15TF coating. I've done a lot of side by side testing of iscar, mitsu, sandvik and Sumi and they have been the best steel quality on everything from 1018 to 4140.
Congrats on 10k!! The surface finish is a symptom of high frequency oscillations. The spindle bearings need to be modified for conical axle/hub bearings. That machine just wasn’t made to run at carbide speed. Get some US, Japanese or European HSS stock and grind up some tooling.
I’ll be donating on PayPal again soon, not much but I hope it’ll help you make more videos.
You are right about the spindle bearings, they could definitely use a professional scraping
So right.... Running Carbide on a lathe of this size & light construction is asking for trouble. Why are people afraid to learn how to grind up some hss tooling which is all that was available when this dinosaur was made... 😒
I don't think it's the inserts. Maybe more the speed. These carbide inserts don't like slow speeds, especially in a small bore.
congratulations love your channel
thank you :)
Thanks to your information🤝🤝🤝
Anytime I think the fan noise from my shitty Huanyang VFD is bad, half a second of the noise your Allan Bradley puts forth has me feeling better about things. Easily makes my Top 3 Very Bad Sounds, right up there with Trump.
It's a bit of an acquired taste
@@Rolingmetal you are the king of understatement! Hey, have you turned much delrin? Might work well on your old lathe. I was turning delrin on the weekend and it seemed to really like low speed. Would love to see you try it. Keep up the videos, I greatly enjoy them over here in Australia.
Congratulations! Now get that old mill. ..
would love to, maybe next year.
Your inserts are not the problem. You are
I know
I have the same inserts mine cut pretty good !!!
Chip ejaculation sounds like a personal problem. Better go see a doctor.
I fully back your decision on the policy change were a small channel becomes a medium -- small channel at the 10,000 subscriber level. I also think that we should ban all VP15TF inserts until the matter is fully investigated. Don't worry I will not unsubscribe until this channel gets better.
Maybe it will never get better. Maybe I don't know what better is.
Congrats on your small mediumness
mediocreness :)
As long as you're having fun. :)
I recorded a video of myself repairing a quad bike. I fixed the bike (kinda) but I can't find the time to edit the video. The editing is way harder than it looks and takes heaps of time.
It says 10k. Congratulations
So my prediction came true :)
The 10k looks good under your name.. I'm just over 400 in a year. My content must really suck.
it doesnt suck, you just havnt quite found your stride yet, you will, and get a style and it will build
It took me 8 months to get my fist subscriber, so hang in there.
I have just started viewing and got to 40 seconds and without watching further the video I would suggest you take a look at your boring bar insert, it seems there is no support under the insert, it looks as though the insert has a gap where it should be supported at the tip by the boring bar,
There is a bit of paint missing from the boring bar. That might give the elusion it's not fully seated.
There certainly is no air gap, I held it up against light
@@Rolingmetal Well that's good news
Wow that big maybe I could gain some of that fame by doing a collaboration with you? 😊
You don't seem to have much luck, do you?
Perhaps it's time to mount a dremel or similar on your lathe and grind that taper.
I don't know about luck but my skill level is certainly below average for a YT wannabe machinist :)
@@Rolingmetal always think positive thoughts and you will get there, given a bit of luck.🤣
you are wasting your money,buying carbide for that old lathe.
I have another lathe. Threading insets are of no use on this one.
Why are you using carbide insert tools... that lathe isn't designed to run carbide....go supersharp hss... & make 100% sure you are dead on centre-height or the taper cut will not be correct.
HSS tooling is not only more appropriate for that wet noodle lathe it is a LOT cheaper...
😎👍☘
I think you r right!
I'm a real subscriber! .................maybe.
^.^
Not sure are we?
Walter CPMT-32.51 9605
Vettel blew it again.
Kinda, but I really think the F1 organization is screwing over the fans.
MAN that thing sounds ungodly!!!
my god, get a proper tool post already. this setup is just painful to watch.
and how you'd expect proper finish at ID no less with a CCMT insert recommended for roughing and interrupted maching at low speed?? get a sharp one for finishing like CCGT and a fitting boring bar ffs, tho i'm not even sure finishing is possible on your lathe with that joke of a spindle bearing.
Sorry what's wrong with this toolpost? It's just old.
Working compete nonsense !
As usual :)