Retr0bright - de-yellowing do's, dont's, and playing devil's advocate
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2024
- Can you de-yellow your ugly old game consoles and computers? Yes! Should you? Sure! Sometimes. Maybe not always. What's the best way to do it? Let's find out!
In this video, I tell you everything you need to know about Retr0bright - that wonder formula that's allowed us to take the nasty yellow that brominated ABS plastic turns and return it to something close to its original color. I even tackle why you might not want to do it, before showing the results of some semi-scientific tests I did on the best formula and kind of light to use.
You may hear some background noise if listening through headphones. Sorry about that - I had some technical issues and fixed them the best I could.
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I've actually gotten really good results using just the 3% hydrogen peroxide sold at major grocery stores, large zip-up sandwich bags, and sunlight - it takes far longer (2-3 days in direct sunlight during the peak of summer), but that basically just meant I had plenty of time to rotate the item to ensure it'd de-yellow evenly.
This is probably the best video for an overall perspective and mature approach to the subject. Well done!
An excellent, no-nonsense and informative video. I will go with the findings in this video to kick off my first brightening project. Thank you!
Nothing looks good in nicotine yellow.
LOL exactly.
My teef do
"nothing" is too much. Better yellow working than nothing at all.
I'd just add that after disassembling, you can usually tell what color you're trying to match by examining areas of the plastic that were never previously exposed.
"...to boldly go where no man has gone before."
I was a professional housecleaner and ive used hydrogen peroxide over time on a lot of kitchen appliances & assorted surfaces. i know its properties and uses well. Peroxide does seem to be the #1 most effective choice to reverse the yellowing of plastic.
Commonplace as hydrogen peroxide is, most users dont really know that at any strength it is simply H202 which is essentially WATER (H20) with an extra oxygen molecule H202 (ozone is H203) the extra oxygen molecules easily detach to cause enzyme reactions and THAT is the activating (bleaching) factor with the residue being pure water. H202 the cleanest clean possible.
The action is the same matter what the various strengths (% & volumes) for different purposes are. Drug store peroxide is 3%, hair bleach activator is 6% (20 volume) to 12% (40 volum Oxyiclean has 18% and a pure pharmaceutical grade of H2O2 is a whopping 35%)
H2O2 "power water" is safe yet misused it isnt. Oxidizers can be highly corrosive.
At 3% medicinal peroxide is used to explode oxygen hating bacteria clean wounds, & dissolve blood & dead tissue. BUT exposure to pure OXYGEN at even 3% will bleach hair lighten skin & whiten fingertips. Higher strengths are potentially harmful & require precautions to avoid brief but painful chemical burns)
H202 may oxidize some metals but it has no ingredients that will damage plastic. Its potential bleaching action on yellowing, (how well it bleaches and how long it takes) would amount to how MUCH oxygen (enzyme) is present to interact and how deeply it penitrates the surface.
Heat & or light may help it penetrate but I am guessing that oxyclean which contains baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) might be more effective than hair peroxide.abd frequent application might be as effective as soaking
Im also wondering if retrobrighters have tried just keeping a brown bottle of drugstore 3% peroxde handy to daily wipe down their devices? I suspect it would both slow the yellowing & reverse it gradually over time...
Hi, people said without cover with plastic would make the process faster. Is it right?
This was a really good guide. Not over promising and not complex. Just pain and honest. Thank you.
Top vid again mate. :) keep up the good work!
Best presentation I have watched on the pro’s and con’s of retro bright.
Thank you for a clear and concise explanation of this process.
A very informational video without nonsensical fillers.
Loving the new set up! looks so aesthetically pleasing with all that retro.
Jaikeify I was thinking the exact same thing.
The best video about this topic that I had ever found ! Thanks !
Tips coming from experience... No plastic bags or wrap! Just a clear plastic storage bin, sunlight and patience. I will do three light/thin brush coats a day for 1-3 days with great success.
My first go with plastic wrap and sun resulted in blotches where the plastic clung and where it didn't... Hosed a perfectly good IIgs case this way :(
Two other points:
-No retrobrite on Painted surfaces!!! (Watch out Commodore guys, maybe others) many monitor bezels can be painted though they appear plastic. Same with badges, lettering, etc... The Peroxide will deteriorate it to the point it will often wash off directly after your treating it.
-I have many times done keyboard keys in a 5(water):1(peroxide) solution in a clear plastic bowl, with clear plastic cover. Keys ALL came out evenly with out all the fuss of brushing on Peroxide and trying to lay keys out oriented up. Darned nifty. Mix, dump and submerge, cover and go!
AND THE FIRST RULE OF THUMB!!!
Try simple rubbing alchohol and a magic eraser sponge first! You might be VERY surprized with the results.
(also search for dry erase marker to get out sharpie) :)
All the Best!
I tried to de-yellow my apple //e keys in the hydrogen peroxide submersion method. It worked for the most part but the space bar still had a little yellowing so my dumb ass thought it would be a good idea to use the boiling water method the 8-bit guy uses. (Apparently this only works for white keys not grey ones.) they came out with bright white splotches on them. I also ruined the grey part of the monitor and a replacement for the entire monitor is 150$ on eBay. I've replaced all the keycaps as you can buy full sets online but I am still kicking myself over the monitor!
@R. M The evaporation is stopped by the lid on the clear plastic storage bin.
TheSlow Norris in my experience, as long as you periodically massage and spread the creme around under the plastic wrap, you can expect some very nice results
this is informative as much as the entire video. Tnx a lot!
Great video and analysis - Thanks for sharing this!
Very informative and very much correct! Thank you for another good perspective on the process.
I appreciate how you explained the pros and cons of retrobright. Most videos do not go over the negatives at all. I live in downtown Seattle and don't have a place to leave stuff in the sun (or any place really lol), so sadly this isn't an option for me in the slightest. However, when the day comes to finally retrobright something, I will keep all this in mind.
Can you imagine you go so far that the plastic becomes completely transparent? lol
In my opinion, the yellow hue just adds to the patina of these old retro machines, I wouldn't touch for anything... the yellower the better ;) Of course to each their own.
You can use heat in place of UV it seems ruclips.net/video/qZYbchvSUDY/видео.html
You actually could retrobrite in a less sunny climate, on paper at least. UV light passes through clouds.
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
I have a cure for the yellowing coming back. Put a high quality auto wax on the plastic after retro brighting. The wax will reflect the uv light and slow down the process. Also on piano black plastics the wax actually stops fingerprints.
uv protectant hopefully is in the wax. its why headlights should be uv clear coated after refinishing/removing haze
Great overview and scientific method! This was extremely helpful
6:35 Top 10 saddest anime deaths
Great video, bit long for my ADD friends but I watched it all. Shared with the vintage sled collector groups. Thanks so much
Thank you for the in-depth experiment.
Great video, I don't know how you do it for me but I have no retro consoles, computers, etc, and you still manage to make this not only watchable, but super interesting. Please keep the videos going. PS I know you have a huge interest in Japan, but I am currently living in South Korea and if you had some sort of interest or need for anything here, please let me know and I'll make it happen. Keep up the great videos.
Hey, thanks! I hope I can keep you and others like you interested. And thanks for the offer too - I'm not sure if there's anything from Korea I'm looking for right now, but I'll keep you in mind if I think of anything!
Jesus, I usually have nothing to do with retro tech, but this was so well researched and structured I couldn't help but watch a full 20 minutes of making tech white again. Good job!
TechWurst why are we still here just to suffer?
TechWurst making teck white again!
lulllzzz.
Well researched?!? BS! I watched the first 5 minutes and knew he doesn't know what he's talking about just from the comment that nobody knows for sure what original colors where! All the moron has to do is look at the INSIDE of any case where the color is still original!
I'd like to add: for #3 on devils advocate about "yellowing being yours", I agree in some instances! I would like to offer the word "patina" to be used in this instance. In a high quality top grain leather product, or a carbon steel Japanese chefs knife, the term patina would be used to describe the beauty that comes along with using and aging. I think for certain things, its much more beautiful, especially knowing you created said patina.
Thanks for pointing out the negative side of retrobrighting old machines. I was planning to do so but I'm going to rethink about the topic... Thanks!
heat works too! :)
Thanks for this. Very informative.
I tried it on my teeth but lost patience sunbathing for 6 hours with my mouth wide open.
@Umos Crocodiles do not have sweat glands on their skin. They keep their mouth open to cool it off.
Best comment yet lol
I guess you just forgot to cover your mouth with a clear plastic bin.
@@retroman2884 But it was 2 years ago, we did not have to cover our mouths back then...
Some people ALWAYS should;)
Well known by now (this video is now over 4 years old), but worth posting here. One of the reasons the sun works very well is the heat it generates. So when using artificial light, either warm the solution or provide heat to the enclosure. Obviously not enough heat to melt plastic. More heat = less time necessary to brighten. Less time = less potential for bleaching damage, plastic deterioration or streaking.
These videos are totally awesome
Thank you. Very informative.
I'm using the same Clairol solution, applying it thoroughly with a brush, wrapping in cellophane and letting it sit out in the sun, but for some reason my consoles keep coming out blotchy and streaky and I can't figure out why. Any ideas?
I found the most effective method of retro brighting is to submerge the plastic completely in a 12% hydrogen peroxide liquid, anything light can be blu tacked down in the container to prevent floating. Its a more expensive way of doing it, but it eliminates the possibility of streaking.
@Krulikka rip...
A wise, well thought out video. As in life nothing is without pros and cons.
Gotta try this some time. Sunny day in Scandinavia would be perfect for this, as the sun is up 19-22 hours.
Great video man
Great Vid Man!! Thumbs Up!!
Very methodical & very helpful. ty
Thank you very much for your explanation. I will also perform the 24-hour test in normal light (not UV) to verify the result. Greetings from Argentina!
Just like you can retrobright sneakers!!! But thanks very informative, detailed and nice explanation. Very thorough, thanks a lot!
nice collection in the background :)
I used hair conditioner and regular hydrogen peroxide and mixed for a good while about half and half but you should keep adding peroxide carefully until its a smooth goopy consistency like paint stripper. Coat heavily with paint brush and wrap in saran wrap then put in sun for several hours. You may need to repeat the application so make enough. Try to add as much peroxide you can but do not make it watery it has to cling to surfaces.
Retrobrite is just a bleaching process. Hey Birt! Did massive experimentation and came to the conclusion that you aren't "reversing they yellowing" or w.e, you are just bleaching the plastics into a lighter shade.
Finally, a video that gives you the facts with a mature brief. Also, "the carpet don't match the drapes, if you know what I mean"! 😁
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers 🇦🇺
Great food for thought not found elsewhere nor often finding Capt. Archer on board. I've got cool gray plumbing fixtures including acrylic tub which all look just fine but have a grungy yellowish 30yo toilet seat and lid that never quite matched the fixtures anyway. Have noticed the grunge for sometime but just recently had cataract surgery and can see a great difference now. Think I'll give this a try. Was wondering if the blooming/streaking might have something to do with plastic bag/film coming into contact with item surface while in process of being retrOized? Thanks for sharing.
You're channel is awesome. Because of you, I'm now going to start getting into "classic computing" as a hobby. I already do a lot of custom builds and projects that are modern, or more modern at least, but these videos really inspire me to expand my collection. Thank you :D
Hey, thanks, that's inspiring. I'm thinking my next video will focus on a system of some kind; I feel like I haven't done one in a while.
That sounds fun. Looking forward to that!
Gaming Psychologist *your
Thanks :D
The original Apple II or II Plus shouldn't need to be Retrobrighted, because its case is painted. Same thing with many TRS-80s. And Retrobright rarely turns out well on cases that were originally supposed to be beige, like the C64. Like you said, people often go too far and turn them nearly plain white, when they were never that color even when new.
I did do my C64, but it was REALLY yellow when I got it (I didn't take any "before" photos unfortunately). But I couldn't match the top and bottom, which you can sort of see in the photo at the end and I almost mentioned it. The top and bottom yellowed differently; the bottom's lighter now than the top, but still yellower. So, another example of how this doesn't really restore the original color, it just de-saturates and lightens, but at an unpredictable rate for each.
c64 came in various colors to start with which complicates the issue. Some were darker brown.
This is a none issue really because the original colour of the system is gone anyway. Weather you retro brite it or not. I'd choose white over yellow any day.
@@AndehX this I think is an underappreciated point. For every precious Apple IIe special edition, there's a hundred anonymous beige boxes that won't lose a cent in value. And a lot of computers yellowed very unevenly, depending on sunlight (and if the owner smoked). Painting it is an option, and often people don't know what paint to use on plastic, so retrobrite (or Retr0brite) I think is a better way for the average user to go.
Great job for the community, well done! I still won't retrobright my little micro's.
Yellowed plastic becomes brittle, so in the snes, you will see that they legit fall apart
Also, using the clear hydrogen peroxide and heat does the best job. You can buy stronger clear hydrogen peroxide probably at the same place you buy the cream. And so you need less peroxide you want to dilute it a bit with water
I watched a lot of videos about use the hydrogen peroxide but you experimented very good with that, I enjoyed it your video and I’ll put the cream on my projects , thanks a lot.
Well I did retro bright on my SNES PAL + NTSC over a year ago. They came out perfect but then I had to move so they ended up in a friends loft.
Now a year later having brought them out they are all yellowed again. Even if you keep them out of sunlight, heat reverts them back.
I now know if I’m ever going to do it again they are going on a cool rack to draw the heat away.
I have a few Nintendo OP51 Oil Panic games i'd like to try this on.
Unfortunately some stay bright white and some don't.
For those that didn't, my guess is that kids played them out in the sun to be able to see the LCDs better as back lit technology never existed back then.
Thanks for the video. Very well researched and structured.
I quite like the grungy yellow look of my Atari ST but with other systems I prefer the snowy white appearance. With my other systems, one system was almost orange and retro Brighting brought it back to its original finish and it's stayed that way for 10 years but I guess that says more about the sun in the UK! Certain machines suit a bit of yellowing but others don't plus it's very subjective I think.
The clear solution retrobright hair products should stop the streakiness since it will let all the light through. The streakiness/blotchiness is because the white retrobright is blocking the light or blocking it inconsistently due to varying applied thickness. Just guessing not sure I haven't done it yet. I'm more excited for the ozone method.
i would always retrobrite when i started collecting. now, you are right - as long as the yellowing happens when its in my posession, it doesnt bother me. very odd
excellent video. I want to mention that I'll probably try this on my guitar. It suffered from yellowing due to sunlight so I'm assuming the same principle is at work here.
Very informative video..Thanks! Will it remove printed lettering on the plastic though? Obviously I wouldn't want that disappearing. I noticed keyboard letters remained intact in your video.
Thats a good comment on how exactly they used to look, simply because we had no way of photographing them in digital.
One way, is to find either a New-Old-Stock machine, assuming it too hasn't yellowed, or as damn as close to NOS as you can get - can get expensive. One of my 2x 800XL machines is NOS, and it's in it's original colour - I know this because I had one in 1984, and it's light beige. My Atari ST 1040, is light grey. My C64, is definitely brown. You can get those Aldi ones in light beige.
I've seen Amiga 500 machines almost white in colour, that is not what they originally were. The A1200, was much closer to white than the old A500.
It's a shame that, back in the 80s, all machines weren't more like the Commodore 16, or Spectrum - Black, in colour.
Great video! I'm going to attempt a retrobright on my friends gameboy that I bought from him because like you said, I don't have the memories so to me, I want the "original" look. He also wrote his last name in paint on it and after attempting to scrub it off with isopropyl alcohol I was even taking off the OG Nintendo lettering and the name STILL didn't come off. At this point it's just a restoration project of my own, and I'm just happy to have a piece of history (I was more Gameboy Color Era). But I can agree that if it was YOURS originally, that patina is a nice edition, albeit cosmetically off-putting.
I have hard time deciding to do retrobrighting on a C64 i have obtained recently. The exterior is just horrendous. But suprisingly the internals are not bad at all. Not only is the exterior yellow, it is dirty and has all sorts of marks. I have just washed it and wipe with some alcohol to at least make it not a biohazard to touch now. Ordered some Magic eraser and hopes this will get rid of all those marks and scratches. But i am split between spray painting it to a fresh funky color or should i retrobright it....i haven't done any retrobrighting before and i lives in a condo making it impossible for me to get hours of direct sunglight as my corner doesn't get any direct sunlight. Your video gave me some hope as any light will do, but still for all the trouble, maybe i should jut spray paint it at the park, which is not hard to do.
In this video, you stated that retrobrite does not change the molecular structure of plastic, but some years ago, it was studied and found that it actually does leave microscopic gaps once the bromine is reduced, which in theory would make the plastic structure weaker (perhaps brittle over time). Especially with repeated use of peroxide. I wonder if this is why the yellowing returns 10 fold over a shorter period of time, as it fills in these microscopic gaps when the bromine separates and resurfaces.😵💫
It reminds me of how plasticizers in some semi-rigid plastic action figures (like vintage He-Man, TMNT, etc), would separate and surface over the figures, leaving a sticky film on top. Plasticizers are an important component of the plastic, to keep it's structure supple. Once it surfaces, the plastic has been found to be less durable (more brittle).
I wonder if by removing the bromine in these harder plastics, the effects are similar. I really wish there was a perfect solution to this problem. I'm contemplating experimenting with paint to match applications, using precise airbrushing and protective lacquer coats to replicate a perfect color match and surface finish, for certain items like a yellowing Super Nintendo, original classic NES, a Dreamcast and so forth. 🤔
This is a great video. Thank you so much for sharing it. Many valid points were made.
The difference in the shop fluorescent lights and the UV lights was so slight that I suspect it wasn't the UV at all but rather some of the other colors. I would be interested in seeing what happens if you use incandescent light bulbs(not halogen). Very little UV from them.
i recently got a apple iie, with monitor and one floppy drive, it all matches and doesnt look to bad till you see the top of the monitor where the drive sat.
Thank you!
Great video, thank you. Been toying with the idea of retrobriting an Atari 1040st that belonged to my late father but I kinda enjoy the yellow since it's ours lol silly I know.
Another great video...I will be retrobriting soon...I am curious how high brightness led lights work vs the charged gases in an florescent tube...I will have to give it a try. Additionally, after retrobriting, some users have been using a flat transparent spray paint to coat the surfaces...this should prevent oxidation from air, but without UV protection...the components should still avoid daylight...cheers.
I remember my old PC's being yellow
Tried it with my slight yellow C64G. Even without Sunlight, after 14 Hours in Bags, the Plastic Parts are Commodore White again!
Thanks for the nice video. I have checked the peroxide I purchased and it contains Phosphoric acid - I shall do some tests before ruining my Apple //e!
Nice video, I'm going to do my A1200 but I don't think I will ever retro bright my original A500 which is almost orange!: ) nor will I do an A1000 I have which was already yellow when I got it from a famous games developer. Living in Southern Australia I can get HUGELY powerful ozone layer free burning light for like 12 hours straight over Summer, so getting them white will be no problem.
I keep my Playstation and my Super NES in plastic bags in a cupboard in ones of my bedrooms. I've had them both for over 20 years and there's not even a hint of yellowing on either console. I don't smoke in my house either so I guess that helps too.
Very methodical! I need to try this on synthesizer keys, but it is not possible to remove them. That means clean up will be arduous and application will take time and attention to detail. If you have any important suggestions please let me know. I have tubes installed over my fluorescent lights (which happen to be right above the synth) to filter UVA and UVB. From your comments it sounds like that is a non-issue.
Not like anyone needed me to say so, but, can confirm that heat plays a lot into yellowing.
I remember the "Computer Lab" at my elementary school being stocked to the brim with Apple II+ models, double disk drives, monitors and printers and it was hot as hell in there. They had 2 fans going all the time, and the machines were already yellowed and this was in the early 90s.
it has been a couple of years. i wonder if you still have your test case (ah, "test case," a double meaning, nice) to see what the relative degradation is like for each method. cheers.
I want to try this but the item I want to try it on has decals basically designed stickers Will this mess the decals up on the item?
Great video, thanks. I actually got a SNES here in the uk from CEX, and expected the worst. Quite surprisingly it looks as grey as it must've in the 90's. A Dreamcast I also got from CEX was pretty dirty though and has a slight yellow tint. I might try retrobrighting this because unlike some retro things it doesn't look good! Looks like someone's been smoking next to it
it's basically came from bleaching your hair. good job in testing!!! thanks for doing this now i understand bleaching plastic. =)
For computers and consoles that you still intend to use, some places offer replacement cases as an alternative. I would keep the original case somewhere safe and just use an alternate case colour less likely to yellow.
Scandinavia is great for retrobright in the summer when you can get more then 20h of sunligt. In the winter on the other hand not so good. Guess the same thing is true for northern Alaska and Canada. :)
Per Kroon Canada, along the south, has a normal day night period. Just a few hours change. But Alaska and parts of northern Canada have 24h of sunlight.
Canada, definitely.
I grow indoors though, this is a non-issue for me.
Yes, lots of sunlight, but still not that much UV.
Thanks, you avoided me losing time trying to do it to a CRT monitor lol
I have never done it to anything I own, to scared the things like you talked about would happen and leave it even worse looking
I retro bright my old keyboard for the test, is was very yellow almost brown, but I received it like that and remembered it like this .
and I was filing strange like you describe , like I loose a friend of mine. when it become withe like new
Awesome video! Very informative, and does an excellent job listing the pros and cons in an unbiased way.
Once something has been retrobrited, would one of the UV protection sprays make the effect last longer?Also, strictly speaking, xanthan is a thickener - a "stabiliser" is something that prevents peroxide from degrading (eg acetanilide, phenol, tin).
This is probably a good thing to test - could try it on half of a retrobrighted extra part and then leave it on a windowsill for a few months.
Thank You
Same reason why “patina” is a thing on certain cars. Restoring away the originality and the history could take away value
Heat can also be a factor which isn't mentioned a lot. Similar experiments have proven that standard off the shelf 3% Hydrogen Peroxide will work when diluted in water and heated to a significantly higher temperature. (70C or 160F is sufficient, but needs to be below the plastics melting point. ex. 210F for ABS) Essentially you can use a hotplate and heat diluted peroxide to around 160F with the part in solution for a couple hours and the process works similar. No light needed and no streaking. Another fact, most people mention that the retrobright process essentially reverses the coloring, which isn't true. Most people should be smart enough to piece together that retrobright is essentially just bleaching the plastic. Peroxide, especially high concentrate, is used for bleaching hair, which is why Salon 40 cream is found in salons and other 'beauty' stores. The more you know.
With an Apple IIe numeric keypad I tried the disassemble and simmer in water/peroxide method that I saw on a RUclips video. Well, I got the temperature wrong and warped the plastic. Destroyed it. So forget the simmer method for me. On a Mattel Aquarius I tried using abrasive toothpaste and scrubbing. It worked ok, but the plastic now has a weird feel that I can't seem to wash off. The most recent one I did was a C64 breadbox that was deep brown. I went over the sink and used liberal amounts of Windex and water with a green dish-washing scrub pad. Lots of elbow grease. This actually worked quite well. So well in fact that I had to had to back-off on the keys so to not erase the white paint markings on each key. The case itself came out great. Huge difference. An evening well spent, right? Well, only one thing... the plastics look as I remember but are now rather brittle. I don't know if I caused the brittleness or not, but it's something to consider. I think every "retrobright" method removes part of the plastic and so makes it weaker. I conclude that if you don't go too crazy, the windex/water/green pad method can clean it up just enough to look good without *bleaching* the plastic as you so well put it.
Hey I have a question, i see a lot of pictures of old snes systems where the controller port plastic, and the area right where you plug the games in, all aren’t yellowed.
So are these pieces not bromide treated? If not, do they give me an accurate look at what the original snes color was, and also, should I specifically leave these pieces out of the retrobrite solution when I submerge the plastics, could it ruin the color on these parts?
My understanding is that those pieces are just not ABS. But yes, that color should be fairly accurate, and I wouldn't retrobrite those pieces.
There's a swimming pool product line called Baquacil, and it's oxidizer is 27% Hydrogen Peroxide. It can be purchased at many pool supplies stores, and may be more helpful for making larger batches when making it yourself.
Does it change the plastic? Does it make it less or more brittle? Does it retain its fire resistance?
Did you ever make a follow-up video to discuss if the yellowing came back after a few years?
The archivist rule of thumb is to never alter something so drastically by any chemical process. Stabilize it if you can but don't try to remove anything that takes this much effort.
Thank you for the video. So is the light needed to supply some energy to drive the chemistry such that if the frequency of the light is high enough to equal or exceed that threshold any shorter wavelength will not work any better ? As others have asked, does the raised temperature from leaving the plastic in the sun have any positive affect ?
What little chemistry I know I learnt as an adult to get a year 12 pass for university entry for a physics degree. I've always held some resentment that much of my school years were spent on religious education (RE), physical education (PE) and other wastes of prime leaning time when we could have been taught chemistry.
Good comments. Chemical reactions typically (as you have heard, Dogphlap in your courses) happen faster at higher temperatures. All of these tests, if not done with controlled / recorded temperatures, are not worth much. Many reactions will approximately double in rate with a 10 degrees C increase. The plastic will take the temperature of the solution if liquid is used, or of the gel and be much less uniform if gel is used.
Some reactions that are accelerated by light do need a certain max wavelength/ min frequency to happen. None of these Retrobright tests have been controlled well enough IMO to tell for sure, and the various plastics have different compositions of additives, dyes, etc. so you could not expect a totally uniform response between different lots of plastics in any case.
I have 2 Apple IIIs and I’m leaving them yellow. Like patina on antiques it adds value to see the original with natural aging.
But if you dont have sunlights. Is it about the heat? Can i wrape platic around the objekt i want to get White, and put it i a really hot rom?
Hi, I have no experience doing this myself, but I’ve watched heaps of videos including 8 Bit Guy. What are your thoughts on the idea that it’s the temperature itself and nothing to do with light at all. I saw 8 Bit Guy cooking up his keyboard keys in a saucepan at a certain temperature and it seemed to work the best. Purely asking out of genuine interest, can’t say I’d bother messing around with this sort of thing.
150f. Thinking of giving it a go.