How To Prevent & Fix Frozen Garage Floor Drain To Outside
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- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2019
- Hey Guys,
This is an EASY TEMPORARY Fix for preventing your daylight floor drain in Garages , Pole Barns, Etc .. from freezing. I started off with doing the bare minimum so I could see what you could actually do to prevent it. No matter what , wherever the cold/hot air mixes , it will freeze the water. The only way around it is using an enclosure to trap the heat and allow the water to drain. If that doesn't work for you, then inserting a heating cable will allow it to drain BUT wherever that heating cable ends, the water will freeze outside and build up, like a skating rink! 
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Thanks for sharing. Here in the Northwest we use a triangle piece of metal we attach on top of the roof the full length at different intervals up the roof so it will hold the snow back from sliding off the roof when it thaws and pulls the gutters down.
I was thinking of those but aren't you worried that if you have over 2 1/2 ft of snow on roof may bow the metal?
You might need gutters and run gutter heaters 🤔
Solar panels on the roof, what do you think?
dude... last week it was -18 here (actual temp) for about 3 days, and finally my drains froze in my barely heated garage and they are clear and running again already....
fill your hole in ...
with river rock to about 4-6" below grade, top with good dirt and then sod.. if you wanna be extra careful, substitute top 1.5" of river rock with Styrofoam peanuts and then cover with soil and sod.
it's your open air hole that you've created that is allowing the drain to freeze.
Ya I fixed it but by local code , any garage drain needs to go to.open air. They think that since gas fumes are heavier, it will collect in hole/septic and create a fire explosion hazard
I put snow blocks on my roof, waiting for the first real snow to see how they work. Haven't put the gutters on yet. But my gutter Guy wouldn't install them until I put some kind of snow retention system up. As far as the roof bowing that shouldn't be a problem that steel is quite strong and be designed for it. Plus a large snow fall is going to stay on the roof anyway until it starts to melt
My pitch is standard 4/12 and it likes to slide off. Neighbor has 3/12 and his stays put without cleats. In Midwest , some areas got hit with over 3 ft of snow today, seen it on news where people were shoveling roofs. Wet snow would probably collapse some barns , so would like the option of roof raking. Only reason I haven't installed cleats
Gutters are pretty much useless on steel roofs because the water builds up so much speed running down the steel that it shoots right over the gutters. You can install a steel gutter apron to knock down the water so it goes into the gutter, but then you have all sorts of debris (pine needles, cones, leaves, etc.) that gets trapped under there and has to be regularly cleaned. Then, to protect the gutter apron from being torn off every year by the snow, you have to install at least one row of snow guard on each side of the building. Probably 2 rows on a larger building like yours. That will stop the avalanche of snow and the curling of ice off your eaves, but it also can cause snow to accumulate on your roof. The good news though is having a couple rows of steel snow guard on your roof gives you a ledge for safe footing on a steel roof, if you have to get up there and shovel the heavy snow load off your roof.
Anyways....i am going through the same dilemma as you right now with floor drains. I don't have a trickle from a furnace to worry about though. I am heating with a pellet stove. But i will have melted ice from vehicles that will hit the drains in the winter. So i want to make sure it doesn't freeze up. I think i will end up burying a 5 gallon bucket that is surrounded on all sides with foam. Them foam over the top, with boards and plastic. That way its accessible to clean out on occasion. I will probably install heat tape also.
BTW, if i were you i would consider if possible having your boiler drain into a 5 gallon pail. It would be much easier to take the bucket and dump it every day or so than to deal with these issues. I've seen the trickle from propane furnaces in a house end up freezing up a drain during winter months when the home isn't used. This happens because people arent there, using hot water from showers, etc that helps keep the drains unfrozen. That slow trickle of cold water gradually freezes everything up.
My heater is a condensing unit, so fills up a 5 gallon bucket every 12 hrs if running straight. I fixed my problem and poured a 1ft x 1ft concrete basin with foam around sides and top. Put gravel in it and have foam piece that the water drips on to prevent washout or a hole. Has removable concrete top and I bury it so you can't tell where it is. Never has froze up or sunk so that's an idea for you
@@JasonRUclips hey that sounds great! You buy a concrete block for the top or make your own?
@BazookaIke I made my own. Just did a square form with 2x4 and laid plastic down on plywood . Poured the concrete and screed top flat. Did it 2" thick so I could run mower over it without having wheel fall in. But it's under soil and grass with foam and plastic over the concrete top.
@@JasonRUclips nice!
For us, we have the perforated gutter guard, and the snow curls just like your roof, only off the gutter instead. No problems
Good to know, I need to do something this spring to fix the ice problem
Don't know if you came up with a final fix, but creating a drywell with enough gravel will get rid of LOTS of water. If you are worried that it may fill up then add an overflow pipe from the drywell for those heavy use times. (say, washing the floor) To make a cheap drywell tank use a poly 55 gallon barrel with lots of drilled holes then backfill with gravel.
I actually just poured a concrete with foam box around it and used foam top with a poured concrete top. The escaping heat from pipe prevents it from freezing and its built on sand, so it drains really well.
A couple of ideas: 1) Heat tape at the end of the pipe, either around it, or inside it, (the kind with a thermostat that we wrap supply pipes with under a house to protect them at times)? But then you will still need to have a place for the melted water to run out to and not build up, so as to not freeze again near the end of the pipe. But not sure these tapes are warm enough to do the job.
2) Salt down the drain from time to time but it's not good for the yard.
3) A combo buried gravel drain, but fed via an overflow T to daylight, to allow overflow if the sump gets full in the summer time. So in the winter the water goes into the ground. In the summer large volumes of water flow out to daylight.
I'm looking at building a garage drain for a new garage and am worried about the very problem you are asking about here. I don't like the idea of sloping the garage floor towards the garage door either (i.e. not having a floor drain), because then this snow melt can freeze the garage door shut which I've heard of happening to someone on a cold night/morning.
As for mice, I think the interior floor grate should control that.
The main thing the county and inspectors are worried about are gas fumes sitting in pipe and blowing up as gas is heavier then air. So they want daylight but most people will just bury it after inspection and air from pipe keeps it from freezing. Thats what almost everyone I talked to have done and they just make sure not to spill gas or smoke by drains if they have, and some people have had their buildings for over 20 yrs like that with no problems
If you slope it also then wherever that water hits cold air will freeze so have an ice rink that needs salt, which damages everything from concrete to plants, like you stated. Thanks for input and watching
Should of dug that shit below the frost line man 👨🏽 🤔🤷🏻♂️